Hi Terry, thank you so much for taking the time to make and share these wonderful videos for free. Your series on black pine has helped me immensely! You are an excellent teacher. Finally I see the 'Thanks' button! Have a great day Terry, keep up the amazing work. 🙏
Terry!!! Thanks for this solid information. I have a shohin Kuromatsu in development stage here in Puerto Rico and this video is super helpful. Thanks!!! Blessings!!!
Thanks for your great information Terry, love your clear well thought through presentation and excellent production quality. The topic indeed is overly confusing but demonstrating the reason behind the process was an excellent approach. Thanks so much 😊
Thank you kindly! Yes, to be honest I can get confused too at times - there so many factors and variations. But often sticking to the basics and good logic and you cannot go wrong. Also, no substitute for experience. Thanks so much for your kind compliment!
Thank you very much for your compliment and for asking about white pines. Actually I have done a couple videos but not much as this species does not really grow well where I live (not cold enough) so I don’t feel terribly comfortable about giving advice on them. But here is a playlist of my videos which might be helpful: Japanese White Pine th-cam.com/play/PL07aoEnuQCWMseN8kHP9KJSD-FpJGTkkP.html
Good video Terry! I’ll take your advice on my JBP next summer (I’m in California USA) I wasn’t aware that you DONT cut the main candle on the sacrificial limb. Just let it grow, keep up the good work!👍🏻
I’m not sure what you mean Rico. But I think the answer to your question is that you want to limit the size of the sacrifice or escape branch because if it gets very big the scar is also much bigger.
Hello Terry, Great educational video. I really liked all your details and explanations. One question I did have is about slanted cut. You said slanted cut would create buds on one side only. Which side? Can I use this technique on purpose if i need a future branch in the correct direction? ( maybe similar to slanted root cuts on maples ) Finally I wish to also thank you for your videos as they always come at the time when most of us have our trees winterized and waiting for spring.
Thanks so much for the kind words. Your idea of the slanted cut in theory would work but I’ve never heard of it being employed in that manner. The bud should form on the side with the apex of the slant, so opposite the side which is shortest. If your tree is strong enough it is very likely to still produce 2 or more buds regardless. However the one on that side will be stronger.
Sei bravissimo a creare video molto istruttivi. Ti chiedo gentilmente se puoi fare un video sul pino mugo perché ne ho acquistato uno in vivaio con il vaso da coltivazione. Ha un tronco con circonferenza da 16cm.con un bellissimo palco rotondo molto ramificato e compatto. Ho seguito molti tuoi video sui pini neri ma non so se le tecniche le posso applicare anche sul pino mugo. Grazie mille anticipatamente
Thank you so much for your compliment! The question whether you can use the same techniques is relatively easy to answer - they will be applicable to any double flush pines. In other words if you cut the spring growth, does the tree push new growth again. I am going to guess yours will not. As such you will need to use the same or similar techniques to Japanese white pine. Sounds like you have a great tree with lots of potential, good luck with it!
Hello Terry. Do you think working with Nishiki pine is any different from working with black pine? I mean the work of pruning buds and plucking needles
Well everyone is entitled to an opinion. At the end of the day it’s your tree. Your method should produce the best results for you, if not, change your method.
No I did not Alessandro, well spotted. I don’t want to because I want energy to go into that branch or it will not elongate and thus thicken the base. But you’re not quite correct in stating “all” the energy will go there. Correct, some, but not all. There is sufficient growth low down to keep sapflow going there too which is all I need to keep this section of the tree healthy till the sacrifice has done its work. Thanks for asking! 👍🏻
ok thanks for the answer. nice technique, i have to try on my own. i have some 4-6 years old pines that 2 years ago i decandled and went well but i decandeled the sacrifice branch too i guess if the bottom part stays well vigorus as well but with shorter growth becouse gets less energy is still a win. do you decandle every 2 years or every year? and do you decadle even if you repotted the same year? @@TerryErasmusbonsai
@alessandromassimo5717 sure, pruning the candle on the sacrifice will help but slows the extension and thus thickening. Fertilisation is also very important. Yes you can decande annually, all depends on the strength of the tree. No I would generally not decandle same year as repotting, the combined effect will slow the growth a lot.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai hello Terry i see .. candles start opening up in may july in your zone so as soon as new groth , needle reach 2-3 inches u decandle cutting in the neck between the old candle previous year an the new candle this year .. correct ? thanks for your opinion jack
Thanks for the question. I wait till candles have matured (I have never measured a candle as you phrase it) which is usually very early summer (December) and that’s when I would start decandling. Sometimes I cut back into older growth, so long as there are viable needles - depends on objective. This is not my opinion per se, it’s based on my experience.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai hi Terry 😂😂😂❤️well i am hemisphere north and our December is under zero .. 🎅 i sow your tutorial to have en idea “ how long needles should be " of course it all depends of bud's vigor .. i was used to break them when still possible but u r right when longer is better i sow u reduce by clipping needles lenght is it to stimulate new buds ? thanks
Terry, you have become one of my favorite personalities in bonsai
That is such a generous compliment! Thank you so much!☺️
Hi Terry, thank you so much for taking the time to make and share these wonderful videos for free. Your series on black pine has helped me immensely! You are an excellent teacher. Finally I see the 'Thanks' button! Have a great day Terry, keep up the amazing work. 🙏
Thank you so much Kade, your compliments and financial support are most appreciated. Glad the series has been helpful to you. 🙏🏻
Terry you help me so much on making pine bonsai
That’s great. I’m glad.
You are a natural storyteller Terry 👌🏻👍🏻
Gee, that’s such a nice compliment. Much appreciated 🙇🏼♂️
Thank for your sharing video.
I am from Indonesia appretiate for your activity.
Greeting one hobby Bonsai Sir.
So nice of you, thanks for watching from Indonesia! Greetings to you too Sir!
Terry!!! Thanks for this solid information. I have a shohin Kuromatsu in development stage here in Puerto Rico and this video is super helpful. Thanks!!! Blessings!!!
Thanks Alberto! Thanks for watching and good luck with your kuromatsu, they are so much fun.
Thank you Terry, I am a beginner in this glorious study. Your information is concise!
Thank you so much Barbara, I appreciate your compliment. The learning never ends, I learn daily.
Hi Terry,thank you very much for this very interesting video! I appreciated so much your technique!👏👏👏👏
Roberto, as always thanks for watching and for always making such positive comments. I appreciate it.
Brilliant as always Terry! Great to see the progress of one of the "growing pines from seed" series trees ❤
Thanks Wesley. I’ll be doing another video shortly specifically focusing on them, at least that’s the intention.
Beautiful bonsai👍👍
Thanks a lot Alfaro 🙇🏼♂️
Thanks for your great information Terry, love your clear well thought through presentation and excellent production quality. The topic indeed is overly confusing but demonstrating the reason behind the process was an excellent approach. Thanks so much 😊
Thank you kindly! Yes, to be honest I can get confused too at times - there so many factors and variations. But often sticking to the basics and good logic and you cannot go wrong. Also, no substitute for experience.
Thanks so much for your kind compliment!
Great video. Thanks a lot Terry.
Thanks Gerrit! 🙇🏼♂️
Hello Terry, thank you for this wonderful video. Have you done a similar video for a japanese white pine or if not, are you planning to do one?
Thank you very much for your compliment and for asking about white pines. Actually I have done a couple videos but not much as this species does not really grow well where I live (not cold enough) so I don’t feel terribly comfortable about giving advice on them. But here is a playlist of my videos which might be helpful: Japanese White Pine
th-cam.com/play/PL07aoEnuQCWMseN8kHP9KJSD-FpJGTkkP.html
Good video Terry! I’ll take your advice on my JBP next summer (I’m in California USA) I wasn’t aware that you DONT cut the main candle on the sacrificial limb. Just let it grow, keep up the good work!👍🏻
Thanks Kurt! Yes, don't cut it till of course the sacrifice or escape branch has done its job.
Thanks again for your precious sharing of knowledge ...
But why do you want to change the angle of the escape branch ,cause you will cut it finally ?
I’m not sure what you mean Rico. But I think the answer to your question is that you want to limit the size of the sacrifice or escape branch because if it gets very big the scar is also much bigger.
Hello Terry, Great educational video. I really liked all your details and explanations. One question I did have is about slanted cut. You said slanted cut would create buds on one side only. Which side? Can I use this technique on purpose if i need a future branch in the correct direction? ( maybe similar to slanted root cuts on maples )
Finally I wish to also thank you for your videos as they always come at the time when most of us have our trees winterized and waiting for spring.
Thanks so much for the kind words.
Your idea of the slanted cut in theory would work but I’ve never heard of it being employed in that manner. The bud should form on the side with the apex of the slant, so opposite the side which is shortest.
If your tree is strong enough it is very likely to still produce 2 or more buds regardless. However the one on that side will be stronger.
At the first moment , I was very much surprised that you are doing decandling at this season...
I guess you have not considered I live in the Southern Hemisphere? 😉
@@TerryErasmusbonsai At the beginning - yes, that fact was out of my mind
I’ll try to remember next time to specify timing though as I do appreciate I have a largely international audience. Thanks for reminding me.
Sei bravissimo a creare video molto istruttivi.
Ti chiedo gentilmente se puoi fare un video sul pino mugo perché ne ho acquistato uno in vivaio con il vaso da coltivazione.
Ha un tronco con circonferenza da 16cm.con un bellissimo palco rotondo molto ramificato e compatto.
Ho seguito molti tuoi video sui pini neri ma non so se le tecniche le posso applicare anche sul pino mugo.
Grazie mille anticipatamente
Thank you so much for your compliment! The question whether you can use the same techniques is relatively easy to answer - they will be applicable to any double flush pines. In other words if you cut the spring growth, does the tree push new growth again. I am going to guess yours will not. As such you will need to use the same or similar techniques to Japanese white pine.
Sounds like you have a great tree with lots of potential, good luck with it!
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Grazie di cuore
Seguirò le tecniche del pino bianco e le applicherò sul mio mugo.
Ti seguo con assiduità e passione🫶🙋
Hi Terry when will be the best time to do this process in South Africa
Generally speaking - now. I am doing it now.
Hello Terry. Do you think working with Nishiki pine is any different from working with black pine? I mean the work of pruning buds and plucking needles
No I don’t. I think it’s the same. Wiring is the major difference
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Some people say that they cut off only the strongest candles and only at the very beginning of summer.
Well everyone is entitled to an opinion. At the end of the day it’s your tree. Your method should produce the best results for you, if not, change your method.
did you decandle the escape branch too in the last root over rock pine? i think that you should or all the energy goes in that remaining branch
No I did not Alessandro, well spotted. I don’t want to because I want energy to go into that branch or it will not elongate and thus thicken the base. But you’re not quite correct in stating “all” the energy will go there. Correct, some, but not all. There is sufficient growth low down to keep sapflow going there too which is all I need to keep this section of the tree healthy till the sacrifice has done its work. Thanks for asking! 👍🏻
ok thanks for the answer. nice technique, i have to try on my own. i have some 4-6 years old pines that 2 years ago i decandled and went well but i decandeled the sacrifice branch too i guess if the bottom part stays well vigorus as well but with shorter growth becouse gets less energy is still a win. do you decandle every 2 years or every year? and do you decadle even if you repotted the same year?
@@TerryErasmusbonsai
@alessandromassimo5717 sure, pruning the candle on the sacrifice will help but slows the extension and thus thickening.
Fertilisation is also very important.
Yes you can decande annually, all depends on the strength of the tree. No I would generally not decandle same year as repotting, the combined effect will slow the growth a lot.
Also would you do this work if the tree was repotted this season?
Not normally no Wayne. The tree usually is not strong enough but it will depend on how aggressive the repotting was.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thanks Terry, as I thought, next year, it was a transition from organic to Akadama mix.
Yes, better to wait Wayne.
Terry are doing this work now? Thankyou.
Video was done on Thursday
Is now (early winter in Michigan in the US) the best time of year to do decandling?
No Kevin, I’m in the Southern Hemisphere so it’s summer here. Very late spring through summer is the time for decandling.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thanks so much!
@@TerryErasmusbonsai hello Terry
i see .. candles start opening up in may july in your zone
so as soon as new groth , needle reach 2-3 inches u decandle cutting in the neck between the old candle previous year an the new candle this year .. correct ? thanks for your opinion jack
Thanks for the question. I wait till candles have matured (I have never measured a candle as you phrase it) which is usually very early summer (December) and that’s when I would start decandling.
Sometimes I cut back into older growth, so long as there are viable needles - depends on objective.
This is not my opinion per se, it’s based on my experience.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai hi Terry
😂😂😂❤️well i am hemisphere north and our December is under zero .. 🎅
i sow your tutorial to have en idea “ how long needles should be " of course it all depends of bud's vigor .. i was used to break them when still possible but u r right when longer is better
i sow u reduce by clipping needles lenght
is it to stimulate new buds ? thanks
The timing of decandling dictates how long the secondary candles will be. Decandle early for larger secondary candles and later for smaller candles.
Yes. That’s spot on. 👍🏻
Pik
Well that’s unnecessary