Hello, your explanation is excellent, thank you very much. I consult you a particular case; I have a machine equipped with two 48v/24 DC motors. How do I connect them and act in the same direction at the same time? this equipment contributes its energy through a curtis controller. I remain attentive to your comments. I have S1, S2 and A1, A2. Thank you.
I have a 24v series wound 1hp motor that I took out of an old factory work cart. I’m putting it on my garden tractor to make it run on solar. My tractor already has a reverse gear in its transmission so I don’t need to worry about making run backwards.
Sir i have a golf vehicle when i press pedal single time it can not move so i press pedal many time then it move and the smoothely run but the only problem is that its starting torque is very low because batteries are fully charged i check input voltage of motor 48 volt dc exact i want to increase motor starting torque what you suggest please reply its humble request
Thank you this is exactly the kind of info I'm short on! I'm working on a 1958 "Turf Rider IV" golf cart and it has a GE motor that looks just like yours connected to a belt drive axel set up. It hasn't had batteries in it for many years but the motor/belt does turn freely when the axel turns.. good or bad sign? Could you point me in the right direction in how to go about testing this thing.. can I hook one or more 6V or 12V batt up to it and see if it goes or......
Finally found definition of lettering I was looking for! Swapped a golf cart motor.does it matter that old motor was marked S1 and S2 and the new one is labeled F1 and F2?
Little help here: Shunt Wound motors are labeled F1/F2 & A1/A2 while Series Wound are labeled S1/S2 & A1/A2. A1&A2 are + and - to the armature. Here's a short video that explains the difference. th-cam.com/video/EBqUd2bx0yw/w-d-xo.html
It is one of these: www.albrightinternational.com/products/sw202/ Keep in mind, when your ordering one, make sure you order one with the correct coil voltage for your application.
@@mikescudder4621 thanks Mike but I do things with the DC that I use in my shop and moving display. I can have a battery on stand by. I rather plug and play.thank you.
@@molinarenterprise Its just that these motors draw a lot of amps. Mine from a golf cart will draw over 300 amps on acceleration. But ok a simple bench test is a different story but i'd imagine that it'll draw a fair few amps just to get moving. So maybe a 'fast' battery charger, or one capable of jump starting a car. You also shouldn't pass 12v for bench testing without a load.
Dude.... Thank you, bought an old golf cart at auction and I finally know which posts are S1-2, A1-2
You my man have explained it the best I’ve ever heard.
Thank you for this awesome explanation. Any idea what the winding resistance should be between the connectors?
Hello, your explanation is excellent, thank you very much.
I consult you a particular case; I have a machine equipped with two 48v/24 DC motors. How do I connect them and act in the same direction at the same time? this equipment contributes its energy through a curtis controller. I remain attentive to your comments.
I have S1, S2 and A1, A2. Thank you.
Thank you. Well done explanation for us novice
I have a 24v series wound 1hp motor that I took out of an old factory work cart. I’m putting it on my garden tractor to make it run on solar. My tractor already has a reverse gear in its transmission so I don’t need to worry about making run backwards.
Thx, I’m working on a golf cart and needed the info u shared
Thank you, very helpful!
Good info thanks. Any chance of showing us whats inside with that temperature sensor, how its mounted, where its mounted etc???
Before you said it, I thought "Boy, that looks just like a Citicar motor!"
Good stuff! Thanks for making the video.
Thank you so much for this!
Sir i have a golf vehicle when i press pedal single time it can not move so i press pedal many time then it move and the smoothely run but the only problem is that its starting torque is very low because batteries are fully charged i check input voltage of motor 48 volt dc exact i want to increase motor starting torque what you suggest please reply its humble request
Super helpful video. Thank you!
Thank you this is exactly the kind of info I'm short on! I'm working on a 1958 "Turf Rider IV" golf cart and it has a GE motor that looks just like yours connected to a belt drive axel set up. It hasn't had batteries in it for many years but the motor/belt does turn freely when the axel turns.. good or bad sign?
Could you point me in the right direction in how to go about testing this thing.. can I hook one or more 6V or 12V batt up to it and see if it goes or......
I have ruff and tuff golf cart 2008 , I buy it whiteout forever and reverse contactor, I install and yes go on reverse
Awesome. Now how do I connect it to the controller???
This helped 100% 👍🏼❤️
Thank you
I have a GE5BC49JB395 DC Motor. what do you suggest I do with it?
Hey good afternoon im trying to install one of my motor for the golf cart having trouble
Finally found definition of lettering I was looking for! Swapped a golf cart motor.does it matter that old motor was marked S1 and S2 and the new one is labeled F1 and F2?
So what happens if you connect the field in parallel with the armature
Little help here: Shunt Wound motors are labeled F1/F2 & A1/A2 while Series Wound are labeled S1/S2 & A1/A2. A1&A2 are + and - to the armature. Here's a short video that explains the difference. th-cam.com/video/EBqUd2bx0yw/w-d-xo.html
What is the make & model of the forward & reverse switch you showed in this video?
It is one of these: www.albrightinternational.com/products/sw202/ Keep in mind, when your ordering one, make sure you order one with the correct coil voltage for your application.
Thanks very helpful
Do yo have a link for the controller you showed, please?
Great information!
Good info.
Not a bad video... but the title led me to believe there would be a little more testing, wiring, and running going on.
Good
What kind of AC to DC converter will you use to test those units using home power
A car battery is a better option bud.
@@mikescudder4621 thanks Mike but I do things with the DC that I use in my shop and moving display. I can have a battery on stand by. I rather plug and play.thank you.
@@molinarenterprise Its just that these motors draw a lot of amps. Mine from a golf cart will draw over 300 amps on acceleration. But ok a simple bench test is a different story but i'd imagine that it'll draw a fair few amps just to get moving. So maybe a 'fast' battery charger, or one capable of jump starting a car. You also shouldn't pass 12v for bench testing without a load.
Is that red wire the ground?
Am f lead motor and a s lead motor are not the same
no test here
Sorry! Better luck next time. But glad this video helped you test it!