I have a 24v series wound 1hp motor that I took out of an old factory work cart. I’m putting it on my garden tractor to make it run on solar. My tractor already has a reverse gear in its transmission so I don’t need to worry about making run backwards.
Hello, your explanation is excellent, thank you very much. I consult you a particular case; I have a machine equipped with two 48v/24 DC motors. How do I connect them and act in the same direction at the same time? this equipment contributes its energy through a curtis controller. I remain attentive to your comments. I have S1, S2 and A1, A2. Thank you.
Sir i have a golf vehicle when i press pedal single time it can not move so i press pedal many time then it move and the smoothely run but the only problem is that its starting torque is very low because batteries are fully charged i check input voltage of motor 48 volt dc exact i want to increase motor starting torque what you suggest please reply its humble request
Thank you this is exactly the kind of info I'm short on! I'm working on a 1958 "Turf Rider IV" golf cart and it has a GE motor that looks just like yours connected to a belt drive axel set up. It hasn't had batteries in it for many years but the motor/belt does turn freely when the axel turns.. good or bad sign? Could you point me in the right direction in how to go about testing this thing.. can I hook one or more 6V or 12V batt up to it and see if it goes or......
It is one of these: www.albrightinternational.com/products/sw202/ Keep in mind, when your ordering one, make sure you order one with the correct coil voltage for your application.
Finally found definition of lettering I was looking for! Swapped a golf cart motor.does it matter that old motor was marked S1 and S2 and the new one is labeled F1 and F2?
Little help here: Shunt Wound motors are labeled F1/F2 & A1/A2 while Series Wound are labeled S1/S2 & A1/A2. A1&A2 are + and - to the armature. Here's a short video that explains the difference. th-cam.com/video/EBqUd2bx0yw/w-d-xo.html
@@mikescudder4621 thanks Mike but I do things with the DC that I use in my shop and moving display. I can have a battery on stand by. I rather plug and play.thank you.
@@molinarenterprise Its just that these motors draw a lot of amps. Mine from a golf cart will draw over 300 amps on acceleration. But ok a simple bench test is a different story but i'd imagine that it'll draw a fair few amps just to get moving. So maybe a 'fast' battery charger, or one capable of jump starting a car. You also shouldn't pass 12v for bench testing without a load.
Dude.... Thank you, bought an old golf cart at auction and I finally know which posts are S1-2, A1-2
You my man have explained it the best I’ve ever heard.
Thank you for this awesome explanation. Any idea what the winding resistance should be between the connectors?
I have a 24v series wound 1hp motor that I took out of an old factory work cart. I’m putting it on my garden tractor to make it run on solar. My tractor already has a reverse gear in its transmission so I don’t need to worry about making run backwards.
Thank you. Well done explanation for us novice
Thx, I’m working on a golf cart and needed the info u shared
Hello, your explanation is excellent, thank you very much.
I consult you a particular case; I have a machine equipped with two 48v/24 DC motors. How do I connect them and act in the same direction at the same time? this equipment contributes its energy through a curtis controller. I remain attentive to your comments.
I have S1, S2 and A1, A2. Thank you.
Super helpful video. Thank you!
Before you said it, I thought "Boy, that looks just like a Citicar motor!"
So what happens if you connect the field in parallel with the armature
Awesome. Now how do I connect it to the controller???
Good info thanks. Any chance of showing us whats inside with that temperature sensor, how its mounted, where its mounted etc???
I want to use a VESC controller, which only has 2 output wires.
Could I use the contactor to get reverse?
Thank you, very helpful!
Thank you so much for this!
Good stuff! Thanks for making the video.
I have ruff and tuff golf cart 2008 , I buy it whiteout forever and reverse contactor, I install and yes go on reverse
Hey good afternoon im trying to install one of my motor for the golf cart having trouble
Do yo have a link for the controller you showed, please?
Sir i have a golf vehicle when i press pedal single time it can not move so i press pedal many time then it move and the smoothely run but the only problem is that its starting torque is very low because batteries are fully charged i check input voltage of motor 48 volt dc exact i want to increase motor starting torque what you suggest please reply its humble request
Thank you this is exactly the kind of info I'm short on! I'm working on a 1958 "Turf Rider IV" golf cart and it has a GE motor that looks just like yours connected to a belt drive axel set up. It hasn't had batteries in it for many years but the motor/belt does turn freely when the axel turns.. good or bad sign?
Could you point me in the right direction in how to go about testing this thing.. can I hook one or more 6V or 12V batt up to it and see if it goes or......
What is the make & model of the forward & reverse switch you showed in this video?
It is one of these: www.albrightinternational.com/products/sw202/ Keep in mind, when your ordering one, make sure you order one with the correct coil voltage for your application.
Finally found definition of lettering I was looking for! Swapped a golf cart motor.does it matter that old motor was marked S1 and S2 and the new one is labeled F1 and F2?
I have a GE5BC49JB395 DC Motor. what do you suggest I do with it?
This helped 100% 👍🏼❤️
Little help here: Shunt Wound motors are labeled F1/F2 & A1/A2 while Series Wound are labeled S1/S2 & A1/A2. A1&A2 are + and - to the armature. Here's a short video that explains the difference. th-cam.com/video/EBqUd2bx0yw/w-d-xo.html
Great information!
Thank you
Thanks very helpful
What kind of AC to DC converter will you use to test those units using home power
A car battery is a better option bud.
@@mikescudder4621 thanks Mike but I do things with the DC that I use in my shop and moving display. I can have a battery on stand by. I rather plug and play.thank you.
@@molinarenterprise Its just that these motors draw a lot of amps. Mine from a golf cart will draw over 300 amps on acceleration. But ok a simple bench test is a different story but i'd imagine that it'll draw a fair few amps just to get moving. So maybe a 'fast' battery charger, or one capable of jump starting a car. You also shouldn't pass 12v for bench testing without a load.
Is that red wire the ground?
Not a bad video... but the title led me to believe there would be a little more testing, wiring, and running going on.
Good info.
Good
Am f lead motor and a s lead motor are not the same
no test here
Sorry! Better luck next time. But glad this video helped you test it!