You are so welcome. Wish I hadn't run out of memory... I am happy to help. Please subscribe as I have many interesting machines, but most are sold now but at least you can get a feel for what to look for in a collection.
I come back to your video again and again when I’ve been away from my little 27 for a while. Thank you. I find this little gem very clear and ideally paced for my jittery intermediate level. You’ve gotten me back on the road once again.
I am so happy that it helps you. I have kept all the videos as I get the feeling that they can help. I am long winded. 😆 , please look around and see if any of the other sewing videos help too. Have a wonderful holiday season.
Hi again Dionne - I'm cleaning up an old Singer 28 from 1907 and indeed had the same problem you did (with the check spring getting a bit "stuck" by the tension disks). I noticed that the take take-up spring arm wasn't coming "straight out" at 90-degrees from the main coil part of the spring - it was angled forward a little so it kept landing towards the front of the check spring stop. I also noticed on my one that the ring portion of the stop wasn't really flat. So when I tightened the bottom screw the top portion of that ring bowed forward a little at the upper-left instead of staying flush with the machine. So I very, very gently tweaked the angle of the spring (very gently indeed, I've had one break before and it was both surprising and sudden given how gentle and careful I'd tried to be - perhaps only something to be tried if you have a spare anyway). Then I did my best to flatten the ring portion of stop. This improved it quite a bit and I can now screw in the tension enough to have 3-4 threads showing at the end of central stud before the check spring starts to get trapped again. I thought this might be helpful to other people who have this problem. It seems to be reasonably common on the early 27 and 28 models.
So right, great response. Thank you for sharing. I believe it is because of the tensioner is controlled manually rather than release with the presser foot.
All the machines that I worked on had one tension disc slightly flatter than the other one, so if you put the flatter one on first, it wouldn't interfere with the check spring. But if you put the "wrong" one on first, it would sandwich the check spring and make it stick.
My tension spring couldn't move freely because, as I eventually discovered, the 'tongue' of the pressure release plate was very slightly bent to the left, causing it to exert uneven pressure on the disks - more on the left than the right, so that inner disk was touching the spring.
I was so curious to know what your "trick" is for getting the tension perfect. You were just starting to demonstrate it with the pink thread when you remembered you had to get your hubby-adapted tension disk in the right spot. I know you don't still have the machine to show us the trick, but is it possible to show us on another machine what the principle is? Or perhaps give a bit of an explanation in the comments please? I love any tricks I can get . I've got a rust-bucket 1892 28K to learn on (I can't make it worse!) and have just de-rusted and polished up (as best I can) the tension unit on it. I'm hoping to get the machine working again and this video is really useful. Thank you for popping it up - I'm sure it will help a lot of people..
I dont think the machine is worn. There is no reason that area would wear as the discs don't rotate much if at all. It looks like the new tension discs are too thick. I would find some original singer discs, if needed they can be polished to a bright shiny surface. I have done this to every machine l have restored. Works every time.
I am sorry that I never finished it. My phone had run out of memory. I haven't taken it down because I still think it has good information. If you read through all comments and my responses I explain what was happening when it cut me off. I had forgotten I was going to explain tension. Unfortunately I sold that machine, and my health got very bad. I haven't been in front of a sewing machine as a mechanic in a couple years. I have more of these machines that I can try to remember my tricks. Wish I had been able to finish my tricks. Especially on the machines that have no numbers. Perhaps I will get better and be able to remember and make a new video. It's hell getting old.
I hope you get better soon. We will find a way to fix our problems and will enjoy your tips and tricks if you are able to start posting again. Thank you and God bless.
I had run out of memory on my phone. And didn't know so many people would be watching this video. I had to file it as the round holder that is in the sewing machine that holds the assembly nut I was trying to explain that as it was so old eventually the check spring can rub off the metal which it did on mine. So I had my husband file the section of the tension disks so that they would not interfere with the check spring, and I just have to make sure when I am putting it back together that filed 1/4 of the disk is where the check spring is. Some disks are flatter than others, and these new chrome disks were not flat, so I had to get that area filed off. The check spring and your top tension is the most important part of making a sewing machine sew a beautiful stitch. I no longer have that machine, I ended up selling to a friend who really wanted it for her collection. So I can't redo that video, and I had only made it for a specific friend. I leave all my videos in case they can help someone. Hope it didn't confuse you. Thanks for watching.
Please read all my comments. Perhaps that will help you. I never finished as at the time my phone was overloaded. But as far as the assembly there is enough information to figure out how to put back together. I was explaining where to place the filed area at the check spring movement at 9 to 12.
Thank you Thank you Thank you Dionne. I’m so grateful that you made this video for those of us who really want to SEE the detail!
You are so welcome. Wish I hadn't run out of memory... I am happy to help. Please subscribe as I have many interesting machines, but most are sold now but at least you can get a feel for what to look for in a collection.
I come back to your video again and again when I’ve been away from my little 27 for a while. Thank you. I find this little gem very clear and ideally paced for my jittery intermediate level. You’ve gotten me back on the road once again.
I am so happy that it helps you. I have kept all the videos as I get the feeling that they can help. I am long winded. 😆 , please look around and see if any of the other sewing videos help too. Have a wonderful holiday season.
Hi again Dionne - I'm cleaning up an old Singer 28 from 1907 and indeed had the same problem you did (with the check spring getting a bit "stuck" by the tension disks). I noticed that the take take-up spring arm wasn't coming "straight out" at 90-degrees from the main coil part of the spring - it was angled forward a little so it kept landing towards the front of the check spring stop. I also noticed on my one that the ring portion of the stop wasn't really flat. So when I tightened the bottom screw the top portion of that ring bowed forward a little at the upper-left instead of staying flush with the machine.
So I very, very gently tweaked the angle of the spring (very gently indeed, I've had one break before and it was both surprising and sudden given how gentle and careful I'd tried to be - perhaps only something to be tried if you have a spare anyway). Then I did my best to flatten the ring portion of stop. This improved it quite a bit and I can now screw in the tension enough to have 3-4 threads showing at the end of central stud before the check spring starts to get trapped again. I thought this might be helpful to other people who have this problem. It seems to be reasonably common on the early 27 and 28 models.
So right, great response. Thank you for sharing. I believe it is because of the tensioner is controlled manually rather than release with the presser foot.
All the machines that I worked on had one tension disc slightly flatter than the other one, so if you put the flatter one on first, it wouldn't interfere with the check spring. But if you put the "wrong" one on first, it would sandwich the check spring and make it stick.
I actually replaced it with new chrome disks. And so hubby filled off the rim so it would work perfectly.
My tension spring couldn't move freely because, as I eventually discovered, the 'tongue' of the pressure release plate was very slightly bent to the left, causing it to exert uneven pressure on the disks - more on the left than the right, so that inner disk was touching the spring.
I did the same thing for my old machine, I used car wax on the disc to let the thread slide smooth.
I was so curious to know what your "trick" is for getting the tension perfect. You were just starting to demonstrate it with the pink thread when you remembered you had to get your hubby-adapted tension disk in the right spot. I know you don't still have the machine to show us the trick, but is it possible to show us on another machine what the principle is? Or perhaps give a bit of an explanation in the comments please?
I love any tricks I can get . I've got a rust-bucket 1892 28K to learn on (I can't make it worse!) and have just de-rusted and polished up (as best I can) the tension unit on it. I'm hoping to get the machine working again and this video is really useful. Thank you for popping it up - I'm sure it will help a lot of people..
I dont think the machine is worn. There is no reason that area would wear as the discs don't rotate much if at all. It looks like the new tension discs are too thick. I would find some original singer discs, if needed they can be polished to a bright shiny surface. I have done this to every machine l have restored. Works every time.
I am sorry that I never finished it. My phone had run out of memory. I haven't taken it down because I still think it has good information. If you read through all comments and my responses I explain what was happening when it cut me off. I had forgotten I was going to explain tension. Unfortunately I sold that machine, and my health got very bad. I haven't been in front of a sewing machine as a mechanic in a couple years. I have more of these machines that I can try to remember my tricks. Wish I had been able to finish my tricks. Especially on the machines that have no numbers. Perhaps I will get better and be able to remember and make a new video. It's hell getting old.
I hope you get better soon. We will find a way to fix our problems and will enjoy your tips and tricks if you are able to start posting again. Thank you and God bless.
The pressure foot must be down for tension to engage.
It appears, she didn't finish the explanations of why she had to tile it off on one area. Right?
I had run out of memory on my phone. And didn't know so many people would be watching this video. I had to file it as the round holder that is in the sewing machine that holds the assembly nut I was trying to explain that as it was so old eventually the check spring can rub off the metal which it did on mine. So I had my husband file the section of the tension disks so that they would not interfere with the check spring, and I just have to make sure when I am putting it back together that filed 1/4 of the disk is where the check spring is. Some disks are flatter than others, and these new chrome disks were not flat, so I had to get that area filed off. The check spring and your top tension is the most important part of making a sewing machine sew a beautiful stitch. I no longer have that machine, I ended up selling to a friend who really wanted it for her collection. So I can't redo that video, and I had only made it for a specific friend. I leave all my videos in case they can help someone. Hope it didn't confuse you. Thanks for watching.
What happened?? you cut the video short....
Please read all my comments. Perhaps that will help you. I never finished as at the time my phone was overloaded. But as far as the assembly there is enough information to figure out how to put back together. I was explaining where to place the filed area at the check spring movement at 9 to 12.