Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
you made some big men blush for telling that you can only do it one way, when you corrected them lol. a real man though won't mind being shown he is wrong and will actually learn from his mistake , whether it's taught to him by a man or a woman . great video!
I have 36 years as a climber and still active. You are a breath of fresh air. I don't know any men in this business that speak as clearly and concise. I don't really need instruction, just stopped in for the cute face, nice job.
I am 74years old and have a power tool repair shop at home ,it is going super well thanks to a guidance from a super lady called meckchick thank you, your a blessing
I always turn the Bar around, at least when I install a new chain. That helps alot to keep wear on it. And I use good quality oil for the bar. After every use I blow off every saw with compressed air and clean the air filter. The oldest one I have is an 026 from the early 90s wich still goes strong 👍🏻 Hope my english is not that bad, cause I am from germany 😁
Good sense, well articulated! I've run saws and fixed saws for part of my living for over 30 years. Number of people who don't know to do as this video says, including trained, certificated employees never ceases to amaze. In my experience a lack of knowledge and/or an apparent unwillingness to do basic maintenance leads to poor productivity and to accidents. So I'm going to have a bit of a rant to reinforce the message of this video, hoping it will help someone. Great that you say 'dress the bar'. I say that too (in the UK). I was also taught that this can mean re-gapping a worn (vee-ed) bar groove with a hammer (flat, smooth hammer pein) and flat anvil. I take the time to do this for clients because a vee-ed bar groove and a slack chain means your chain is more likely to jump the rails. A worn bar groove and chain blunt in the cutters on one side means the chain is more likely to 'run off' in the cuts, leading to poor cut placement and felling problems - with saw safety issues and the felled tree not going where you want it (more safety issues). Or your cuts not meeting when cross-cutting, leading to split butts and poor presentation of timber (safety issues and bollockings from the boss). I suspect some clients/operators do not even notice when this has been done in my workshop, which is a real shame. Bars wear more quickly if forced to cut with a blunt chain. This will cause burring through mechanical pressure and also heat the bar. Both Stihl bars shown have been subjected to this - you can see that the bar edges are blue, which indicates that the bare metal has been over 500 degrees Farenheit. Over time, this will alter the temper of the steel - it can go soft and wear quicker. You can get the same effect if you run low on chain oil. Google 'steel tempering colour temperatures' if you don't believe.... Pay attention to detail, never rush your sharpening and maintenance and you will work more efficiently and get more done for less effort and fewer eff-ups. To take this a bit further, if a Foreman rags you for taking time out to sharpen/maintain whilst on site, he (or she) is in the wrong. But do turn up first thing with a saw and bar/chain ready to work...... Good post, Chickanic.
So glad I saw your video. Today I took the bar off, cleaned everything, sprayed some dry lube on the tip, flipped the bar and put it back together. I fired it up, and I swear it sounds better than it did the last time I had it out. Thanks again.
I ran up my saws every time I used them to make sure the chain was slinging oil. I sharpened the chains after every use and flipped the bar every 5 uses, using a screwdriver to pull the debris out of the bar. I greased the nose bearing every use and the sprocket bearing once a month. I adjusted the tension as necessary. I also used a Timber Jack when bucking to keep from hitting rocks and dirt and to turn big tree trunks.
Thanks to Chickanic, I am now a chainsaw bar maintenance pro! Thank you for all the tips. I did learn allot from this video and just had to hit the thumbs up button. I hope everyone makes the small effort to click the like button. It doesn't hurt folks. Really!
About to start bucking a bunch of trees that were recently cut down and came across this video. Thank you so much for the insight and tip on flipping the bar over. That was prodding enough to break my saw down, give it an overdue cleaning and flip that bar. Appreciate the work you put into your videos and for sharing with the masses.
My dad always used the air compressor and completely blow his off every time we got home. He always ran a screw driver down the guide slot. I remember this funky syringe thing full of grease he used on the tip. And I remember him taking the bar into the shop and having them reface it. I think his old homelight super XL even had an oiler button so you could add extra bar oil for really dry wood. I did not know about the flipping the bar over trick. Thanks for the great advise.
I use to take a lot of private and Forest Circus contracts to fall hardwoods and brush on clearcut units before they were burned to prepare them for planting. This was rough work for chain saws. I kept a compressor, a bucket of solvent, and a solvent gun on the truck and all employees were expected to fully clean their saws before we went home. This allowed me to use smaller saws than others used. They burned up saws which we never did. BTW, I started with Stihls but moved to Huskies and never looked back. At first, I spent plenty of money on tip greasers. Then I kinda gave it up and bars lasted just as long. Sometimes greasing in the brush just pushes crud into the tip. Chains were run fairly tight to keep the brush from kicking them off.
Great video. I think you may have covered it in another video but I always check the sprocket wear on the clutch drum whenever the chain and bar come off.
Thanks for the tips....I have a Huskvarna with an 18 inch blade seized up the nose sprocket....didn't know I needed to grease the sprocket....I do now...it was oiling good...thought that was enough for the nose sprocket...I don't guess so...thanks!!! .
If I open my mouth let me praise the good Lord for your thoughtfulness, and kind words of wisdom. I just learned something that I can put to use starting tomorrow. We are cleaning some land with a lot of scrub brush. Again thankyou from an old timer always willing to learn.
Geebuz.... I figured out flipping the bar the first time my old McCullough cut a curve, thinking, "it looks simetrical, "give it a go," and it worked. Unlike you, I've not seen an unsimetrical bar.... Thanks for the tip on grinding the bar. I didn't think that could be done.
I flip when I put a new chain on. The OREGON # 13616, Stens 700-807, Tecomec1017001 or china bar groove cleaner is a must. I wipe the bar down, take the tool point, rake the groove out and then clean the oil hole. Once done, I put like 1 tablespoon of bar oil on the bottom of the bar so it can run into the chain, then take the wrench and pull the chain about 2 cycles. This helps set the chain and now your ready to adjust.
1 more thing I have done for years is: clean the bar grove every time I flip the bar, I use a piece for tieing two studs together (I only run .50 chain). The oil needs to run on a clean groove for best performane. I have a air tank to clean (blow out dust under my sprocket cover not to look pretty, but to learn if my oil is oiling good, and my crank is not spitting oil. Thankyou, I love your videos. After years of burning tanks in my srm2500 you showed where to lube the shaft with Greese. Never did that, but it runs so much better now! And yes it ran 20+years before I ever removed a screw and pushed In lithium Greese. Ty
I have owned several saws over the last 40 years, and without exception your videos are all very informative, and contain good advice. You are even kind to the commenters who themselves need schooling..😊
Great videos. I recently persevered with a chainsaw that had only a couple of hours on it and it wouldn't start and it turned out to be a small crack in the fuel line as it came up through the top of the fuel tank and I had missed it! Now feeling brave, I got out an old Mc cullock hedge trimmer that had been sat for at least a year and after an initial inspection and putting some fuel in it started with no problems. . . Keep the videos coming!
I've learned alot of things from your tutorials. I knew about the upside down bar thing. But I'm going to be looking at my bar tomorrow and adding grease to that sprocket. Thanks for the all the tips and tricks of the trade.
Love your videos and all your tips and tricks. You and a few others have inspired me to start my own channel. My next video is going to be on an old Poulan chainsaw. I appreciate you. Keep up the awesome work!
I have a Stihl with that attached adjustment wheel. I did not know I could flip the bar. I flipped it yesterday! Thanks. Also thanks for a bunch of your other videos. This saw hasn't been started in 3 years (I got a battery saw which serves for most of my trimming needs.) and using the tips in a number of your videos I got the saw (which has the EZ-start) to start on the second pull! You are the best!
I always thought that bad chain and bar lubrication would just ruin your chain and bar. I didn't realize it could make the whole saw overheat, but it makes perfect sense once you said it.
Great tips on this video. When I dress my bar, I don't want to use a grinder...takes off too much material and maybe uneven. I clamp the bar in my vise, clean off the rails and run a big black marker down both rails. Then I use a good sharp file and DRAW FILE the rails. As you file you can see which rail is highest and how much you are taking off. When both rails show file contact, they are even.
I agree to use the chain grinder as a last resort and most professional tree workers I have met agree. They are great on harvester and special tipped chains but they can harden the teeth so a file just skids across them. You probably won't have mains electricity to run a grinder in the woods when you need a quick sharpen either. I would definitely not grind the bar rails on a sprocket tip bar either. It was also standard practice to run a groove cleaner up both sides and check the groove depth while you're at it. Running two chains was meant to be a good idea. And checking the sprocket for wear evertime the chain was off. Husqvarna also had a grease hole in the clutch bolt to grease the roller bearing but not sure if any other makes did. I would also wipe a bit of grease up the starter string once in a while which seems to make them last a bit longer.
Many thanks - will freely admit that I don't use a chainsaw all that often and could stand to learn a whole lot more. And lady, do do that teaching thing very well!
All good advice , I've had several bars that need tip grease , and a few that don't , surprising how many people go , nah I've never bothered , they find out sooner or later . And the price of bars here will make your margins sweat . Great video 👍🇬🇧
A few years ago I saw a youtube vid on an oil additive being tested for it's ability to prevent wear and I was very impressed. I bought a qt of it and have been using in my bar oil. I have found it really cut's down on chain streach and bar wear. The product is called Motorkote. I use it in my vehicles also.
Outstanding vid. Good quality info. Thanks. I had a guy tell me I had my bar upside down a couple of weeks ago. He did not believe me when I told him that you are supposed to do that.
Late to the party. Always highly impressed with your content! I worked on a right of way crew in the 80's. Thought I had learned it all. The flat grinding of the bar was a new one for me, maybe because we had multiple replacement parts on our trucks. Thanks for all the concise information. Saving time, trouble and money. Awesome!
You are very good ! Thanks for all your help have fixed 3-4 problems with small engines, fuel lines , carb repair and chainsaw after being loaned out 😎
I heated my house with wood for 30 years. Cut a LOT of firewood in that time, most with an Echo built Craftsman saw. I have used chains down to 1/8 of an inch length of the of the top of the tooth, measured from front to back. I always flipped my bar when changing chains, and when the bar got that 'V' shape to the chain track, I have peened them back close, using a feeler gauge the width of the drive link, and re-ground them flat. It's critical to keep that top and bottom edge square with the bar, and I always took a fine file to to them, length ways, after grinding, to smooth out any rough surface from the grinding.
Thank you for a video on such an important subject. I new about flipping the bar but never new about oiling holes on the bar or lubricating the nose end.
I have one of those quick adjust ones and had put it in the PIA category to swap but will have another look. the battery makes pull start far easier and 2 batteries will do a medium tree while the neighbour is still trying to start his stihl
I’ve worked for forestry companies all my adult life. Here in the UK, if your working chainsaws in forestry you have to have training. The first part of the course is maintaining the saw. When I was using a saw full time I was getting 5/6 chains to a bar, mainly due to maintaining the bar correctly. It pays to turn the bar
I love to listen to backyard lumberjacks. They have all the answers but still drop a tree on their own house. Don't pay any attention to them. I learn so much from your videos. Thank you.
Great tips I did not know that the bar or chain running hot with transfer heat that away but obviously it does make sense yes thank you so much for the videos and the tips please keep them up
I was ready to leave when I saw it was a vid on flipping bars. Stayed for some reason and overheating a bar means overheating the engine is a very good point. Funny how we can miss the obvious. Thanks.
Ive found the nose sprocket tip bind up less if you dont grease them. I think the grease traps more shavings in there causing it to bind up. If the bar is getting the right amount of bar oil while in use, it seems to be just fine and i dont recall ever getting it bound up with just bar oil for lube.
Thank you for mentioning the oil port. I often will not flip the bar after hand filing in the field because the oil port is plugged on the clutch cover side. However, if I file it in the shop and can clean and dress the bar, then I will flip it.
Thanks for the video, some good points. Be good to see a video on grinding the bar level and also how to adjust or readjust the bar channel width, thanks.
Well…..I sure learned 2 things I didn’t know! Didn’t know about greasing/ lubing the tip sprocket, nor that the tensioning sprocket on some of those bars could be removed/ rotated. Thanks Chickanic! Thumbs up, for sure.
One of the things you forgot, is to clean your bar thoroughly, both mating surfaces, down inside the groove of the bar. When you file/ "dont grind", your bar ! Put bar in vise and lay a flat file on top of the bar, use both thumbs to press down evenly and go from back to front to knock off that sharp edge that the chain makes as it goes around. Also keep file lengthwise with the bar. Use a mechanics table/ stone to check for straightness.( As far as Bent goes !) When greasing the nose of the bar just move chain back and forth, just over the sprocket area. "Not" all the way around the saw. Dont put in to much grease, as this will clog up your chain groove! And then the oil won't be able to flow!!! The chain is supposed to be bathed in the bar oil, at all times! Greasing the bar should be about3 to 7 pumps from a regular bar grease gun.
Great tips on maintaining chain saw blades!! Thank you so much. Will do a better job with my chainsaws now!!! Keeping equipment going well is key to longevity and peace of mind... All priceless...☺
You are lucky your wood is so clean - I have to sharpen the chain more often, like once or twice each refuelling, so I dress and flip the bar each 5 l. of fuel. The dreaded banana bar, I remember them from Skil! Believe Homelite had them too.
Excellent video, I wish you had been around 30 years ago when I was learning all this the hard way. As for flipping the bar over I just thought is was common sense, if the bar is symmetric on both sides, there is no reason or can't be flipped. I just talked to a guy the other day that has been using chain saws longer than me and he never realized that little hole near the nose sprocket was for grease.
Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
you made some big men blush for telling that you can only do it one way, when you corrected them lol. a real man though won't mind being shown he is wrong and will actually learn from his mistake , whether it's taught to him by a man or a woman . great video!
I have 36 years as a climber and still active. You are a breath of fresh air. I don't know any men in this business that speak as clearly and concise. I don't really need instruction, just stopped in for the cute face, nice job.
I am 74years old and have a power tool repair shop at home ,it is going super well thanks to a guidance from a super lady called meckchick thank you, your a blessing
I always turn the Bar around, at least when I install a new chain. That helps alot to keep wear on it. And I use good quality oil for the bar. After every use I blow off every saw with compressed air and clean the air filter. The oldest one I have is an 026 from the early 90s wich still goes strong 👍🏻
Hope my english is not that bad, cause I am from germany 😁
Good job 👍
Danke, and your English is perfect.
Stihls I own have been reliable and durable. Of course the newer stihls have had an occasional minor issue.
Good sense, well articulated! I've run saws and fixed saws for part of my living for over 30 years. Number of people who don't know to do as this video says, including trained, certificated employees never ceases to amaze. In my experience a lack of knowledge and/or an apparent unwillingness to do basic maintenance leads to poor productivity and to accidents. So I'm going to have a bit of a rant to reinforce the message of this video, hoping it will help someone.
Great that you say 'dress the bar'. I say that too (in the UK). I was also taught that this can mean re-gapping a worn (vee-ed) bar groove with a hammer (flat, smooth hammer pein) and flat anvil. I take the time to do this for clients because a vee-ed bar groove and a slack chain means your chain is more likely to jump the rails. A worn bar groove and chain blunt in the cutters on one side means the chain is more likely to 'run off' in the cuts, leading to poor cut placement and felling problems - with saw safety issues and the felled tree not going where you want it (more safety issues). Or your cuts not meeting when cross-cutting, leading to split butts and poor presentation of timber (safety issues and bollockings from the boss). I suspect some clients/operators do not even notice when this has been done in my workshop, which is a real shame.
Bars wear more quickly if forced to cut with a blunt chain. This will cause burring through mechanical pressure and also heat the bar. Both Stihl bars shown have been subjected to this - you can see that the bar edges are blue, which indicates that the bare metal has been over 500 degrees Farenheit. Over time, this will alter the temper of the steel - it can go soft and wear quicker. You can get the same effect if you run low on chain oil. Google 'steel tempering colour temperatures' if you don't believe....
Pay attention to detail, never rush your sharpening and maintenance and you will work more efficiently and get more done for less effort and fewer eff-ups. To take this a bit further, if a Foreman rags you for taking time out to sharpen/maintain whilst on site, he (or she) is in the wrong. But do turn up first thing with a saw and bar/chain ready to work......
Good post, Chickanic.
So glad I saw your video. Today I took the bar off, cleaned everything, sprayed some dry lube on the tip, flipped the bar and put it back together. I fired it up, and I swear it sounds better than it did the last time I had it out. Thanks again.
I ran up my saws every time I used them to make sure the chain was slinging oil. I sharpened the chains after every use and flipped the bar every 5 uses, using a screwdriver to pull the debris out of the bar. I greased the nose bearing every use and the sprocket bearing once a month. I adjusted the tension as necessary. I also used a Timber Jack when bucking to keep from hitting rocks and dirt and to turn big tree trunks.
I’m 59 and it has only been a couple of years ago that I finally understood why you flip the bar !! Thanks for all your great tips and help !!
Me too Del!
Hey bro never too old to learn good for you take care
Thanks to Chickanic, I am now a chainsaw bar maintenance pro! Thank you for all the tips. I did learn allot from this video and just had to hit the thumbs up button. I hope everyone makes the small effort to click the like button. It doesn't hurt folks. Really!
Good point on clicking the like button. And it doesn't cost you a thing!!!
About to start bucking a bunch of trees that were recently cut down and came across this video.
Thank you so much for the insight and tip on flipping the bar over. That was prodding enough to break my saw down, give it an overdue cleaning and flip that bar.
Appreciate the work you put into your videos and for sharing with the masses.
My dad always used the air compressor and completely blow his off every time we got home. He always ran a screw driver down the guide slot. I remember this funky syringe thing full of grease he used on the tip. And I remember him taking the bar into the shop and having them reface it. I think his old homelight super XL even had an oiler button so you could add extra bar oil for really dry wood. I did not know about the flipping the bar over trick. Thanks for the great advise.
No fluff, no bullshit, just honest advice on how to take care of your chainsaw bar. This woman does indeed know her stuff folks.
OMG, I just went and looked and that's why my saw cuts crooked...thank you so much! I've learned so much watching your videos.
Educational as always ,all we need is a explanation we ain't all stupid. Thanks. 🤦♂️
Right on - packed full of great advice in 5 min. - well done!
I use to take a lot of private and Forest Circus contracts to fall hardwoods and brush on clearcut units before they were burned to prepare them for planting. This was rough work for chain saws. I kept a compressor, a bucket of solvent, and a solvent gun on the truck and all employees were expected to fully clean their saws before we went home. This allowed me to use smaller saws than others used. They burned up saws which we never did. BTW, I started with Stihls but moved to Huskies and never looked back.
At first, I spent plenty of money on tip greasers. Then I kinda gave it up and bars lasted just as long. Sometimes greasing in the brush just pushes crud into the tip. Chains were run fairly tight to keep the brush from kicking them off.
Thanks for the tip about running the chain a bit tight in brush, have been experiencing this recently while taking out some thick shrubbery.
Great video. I think you may have covered it in another video but I always check the sprocket wear on the clutch drum whenever the chain and bar come off.
Thanks for the tips....I have a Huskvarna with an 18 inch blade seized up the nose sprocket....didn't know I needed to grease the sprocket....I do now...it was oiling good...thought that was enough for the nose sprocket...I don't guess so...thanks!!!
.
I've been watching Steve's Small Engine Saloon and Dony Boy's videos for years and I have to tell you your videos are much better. Thanks for posting.
If I open my mouth let me praise the good Lord for your thoughtfulness, and kind words of wisdom. I just learned something that I can put to use starting tomorrow. We are cleaning some land with a lot of scrub brush. Again thankyou from an old timer always willing to learn.
Geebuz.... I figured out flipping the bar the first time my old McCullough cut a curve, thinking, "it looks simetrical, "give it a go," and it worked.
Unlike you, I've not seen an unsimetrical bar....
Thanks for the tip on grinding the bar. I didn't think that could be done.
I flip when I put a new chain on. The OREGON # 13616, Stens 700-807, Tecomec1017001 or china bar groove cleaner is a must. I wipe the bar down, take the tool point, rake the groove out and then clean the oil hole. Once done, I put like 1 tablespoon of bar oil on the bottom of the bar so it can run into the chain, then take the wrench and pull the chain about 2 cycles. This helps set the chain and now your ready to adjust.
1 more thing I have done for years is: clean the bar grove every time I flip the bar, I use a piece for tieing two studs together (I only run .50 chain). The oil needs to run on a clean groove for best performane. I have a air tank to clean (blow out dust under my sprocket cover not to look pretty, but to learn if my oil is oiling good, and my crank is not spitting oil. Thankyou, I love your videos. After years of burning tanks in my srm2500 you showed where to lube the shaft with Greese. Never did that, but it runs so much better now! And yes it ran 20+years before I ever removed a screw and pushed In lithium Greese. Ty
Thank you so much for the chainsaw information. That’s crazy, I’m 66 years old and you’ve once again taught me something. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for taking your time on the making on this video. You are the best!
I cut a lot of oak on my property. I sharpen at least twice when I run the chainsaw. I generally flip the bar after the day is done.
Great tip.
I have owned several saws over the last 40 years, and without exception your videos are all very informative, and contain good advice. You are even kind to the commenters who themselves need schooling..😊
I also clean the Grove the chain runs in also
I don't know how you have time for all this and the shop, but I'm glad you do.
Thanks
Brilliant! I guess when you buy a "universal" bar you need to make sure it has the right oiling configuration. Never thought to consider that.
You are exactly right. I’ve had to many arguments with folks about the bar can only go on one way 🤔
I thought Iknew everything I needed to know about chainsaw bars, but I learned something today. Thanks!
Qualified mechanic here. I wish there were more ladies in the trade just like you. Great info on bar maintenance.
You just put 6 months of research on chain bars into a 5 minute video. Thanks!
Great videos. I recently persevered with a chainsaw that had only a couple of hours on it and it wouldn't start and it turned out to be a small crack in the fuel line as it came up through the top of the fuel tank and I had missed it!
Now feeling brave, I got out an old Mc cullock hedge trimmer that had been sat for at least a year and after an initial inspection and putting some fuel in it started with no problems. . .
Keep the videos coming!
I've learned alot of things from your tutorials. I knew about the upside down bar thing. But I'm going to be looking at my bar tomorrow and adding grease to that sprocket. Thanks for the all the tips and tricks of the trade.
Great tips for making your bar last longer. Thanks for sharing!👍
Love your videos and all your tips and tricks. You and a few others have inspired me to start my own channel. My next video is going to be on an old Poulan chainsaw. I appreciate you. Keep up the awesome work!
Thank you so much. I have learned so much about my Husqvarna chainsaw watching your video.
I have a Stihl with that attached adjustment wheel. I did not know I could flip the bar. I flipped it yesterday! Thanks. Also thanks for a bunch of your other videos. This saw hasn't been started in 3 years (I got a battery saw which serves for most of my trimming needs.) and using the tips in a number of your videos I got the saw (which has the EZ-start) to start on the second pull!
You are the best!
I always thought that bad chain and bar lubrication would just ruin your chain and bar. I didn't realize it could make the whole saw overheat, but it makes perfect sense once you said it.
Great tips on this video. When I dress my bar, I don't want to use a grinder...takes off too much material and maybe uneven. I clamp the bar in my vise, clean off the rails and run a big black marker down both rails. Then I use a good sharp file and DRAW FILE the rails. As you file you can see which rail is highest and how much you are taking off. When both rails show file contact, they are even.
I agree to use the chain grinder as a last resort and most professional tree workers I have met agree. They are great on harvester and special tipped chains but they can harden the teeth so a file just skids across them. You probably won't have mains electricity to run a grinder in the woods when you need a quick sharpen either.
I would definitely not grind the bar rails on a sprocket tip bar either. It was also standard practice to run a groove cleaner up both sides and check the groove depth while you're at it.
Running two chains was meant to be a good idea. And checking the sprocket for wear evertime the chain was off. Husqvarna also had a grease hole in the clutch bolt to grease the roller bearing but not sure if any other makes did. I would also wipe a bit of grease up the starter string once in a while which seems to make them last a bit longer.
I’m so glad I stumbled upon your channel. Keep up the great work.
That was a tremendous amount of help! I have problems sharpening a chain.
I knew most of that. All good info, once again and I did learn a bit. Thanks for your vids!
Many thanks - will freely admit that I don't use a chainsaw all that often and could stand to learn a whole lot more. And lady, do do that teaching thing very well!
Gotta Dress that Bar! Probably the most overlooked maintenance item on a saw. Great video!
All good advice , I've had several bars that need tip grease , and a few that don't , surprising how many people go , nah I've never bothered , they find out sooner or later . And the price of bars here will make your margins sweat . Great video 👍🇬🇧
I continue to learn through your videos. I love to learn. I messed up the tip the other day. The tip spreads. Oh well, we live and learn.
A few years ago I saw a youtube vid on an oil additive being tested for it's ability to prevent wear and I was very impressed. I bought a qt of it and have been using in my bar oil. I have found it really cut's down on chain streach and bar wear. The product is called Motorkote. I use it in my vehicles also.
I’ve had one saw with a “banana bar”. It was an old Craftsman without a chain brake. I gave the saw to a collector in exchange for car work.
Outstanding vid. Good quality info. Thanks. I had a guy tell me I had my bar upside down a couple of weeks ago. He did not believe me when I told him that you are supposed to do that.
Late to the party. Always highly impressed with your content! I worked on a right of way crew in the 80's. Thought I had learned it all. The flat grinding of the bar was a new one for me, maybe because we had multiple replacement parts on our trucks. Thanks for all the concise information. Saving time, trouble and money. Awesome!
You are very good ! Thanks for all your help have fixed 3-4 problems with small engines, fuel lines , carb repair and chainsaw after being loaned out 😎
Aussie watching Terrell 4 years and he never told me about that thank you
I heated my house with wood for 30 years. Cut a LOT of firewood in that time, most with an Echo built Craftsman saw. I have used chains down to 1/8 of an inch length of the of the top of the tooth, measured from front to back. I always flipped my bar when changing chains, and when the bar got that 'V' shape to the chain track, I have peened them back close, using a feeler gauge the width of the drive link, and re-ground them flat.
It's critical to keep that top and bottom edge square with the bar, and I always took a fine file to to them, length ways, after grinding, to smooth out any rough surface from the grinding.
Thank you for a video on such an important subject. I new about flipping the bar but never new about oiling holes on the bar or lubricating the nose end.
Chain oil is very expensive here so I use sunflower oil.
So far after two years not problems, bit sticky when cold but runs well .
Learn something new every day. Thank you 😊
I have one of those quick adjust ones and had put it in the PIA category to swap but will have another look. the battery makes pull start far easier and 2 batteries will do a medium tree while the neighbour is still trying to start his stihl
I’ve worked for forestry companies all my adult life. Here in the UK, if your working chainsaws in forestry you have to have training. The first part of the course is maintaining the saw. When I was using a saw full time I was getting 5/6 chains to a bar, mainly due to maintaining the bar correctly. It pays to turn the bar
Great tips. I love this channel. I've been Chickanic'd. 😄 . Thanks for sharing your years of experience and knowledge with us.
I love to listen to backyard lumberjacks. They have all the answers but still drop a tree on their own house. Don't pay any attention to them. I learn so much from your videos. Thank you.
Well thanks for this one! It never occurred to me to flip the bar over for even wear! Definitely saved me time, money, and frustration!
Great tips I did not know that the bar or chain running hot with transfer heat that away but obviously it does make sense yes thank you so much for the videos and the tips please keep them up
Great info👍I stay away from dirty holes and bars and I make sure my tip is always lubed 😉
I was ready to leave when I saw it was a vid on flipping bars. Stayed for some reason and overheating a bar means overheating the engine is a very good point. Funny how we can miss the obvious. Thanks.
Ive found the nose sprocket tip bind up less if you dont grease them. I think the grease traps more shavings in there causing it to bind up. If the bar is getting the right amount of bar oil while in use, it seems to be just fine and i dont recall ever getting it bound up with just bar oil for lube.
Thank you for mentioning the oil port. I often will not flip the bar after hand filing in the field because the oil port is plugged on the clutch cover side. However, if I file it in the shop and can clean and dress the bar, then I will flip it.
Thanks!
Thanks Charles!!!
Thanks for the video, some good points. Be good to see a video on grinding the bar level and also how to adjust or readjust the bar channel width, thanks.
I giggled when you were talking about the bar being upsidedown, I've had people tell me that when I pulled my saw out of the truck.
Really good info from a pro chickanic, thanks. That's silenced some hecklers, embarrassing for them eh!
Well…..I sure learned 2 things I didn’t know! Didn’t know about greasing/ lubing the tip sprocket, nor that the tensioning sprocket on some of those bars could be removed/ rotated. Thanks Chickanic! Thumbs up, for sure.
Wow, I didn't know any of that! Thank you and thanks for sharing 😊
Excellent video on chain and bar maintenance ! Your videos always are so helpful . Thank You.
Well, I learned several things today. Thanks!
With the tips provided here a reasonable quality bar should last a few years even if you run them pretty hard like some of us do.
you're such a good person. I wish I could give you a hug and say thanks.
I like adding a few drops of DSX extra to the bar oil and bar to reduce friction and heat.
One of the things you forgot, is to clean your bar thoroughly, both mating surfaces, down inside the groove of the bar. When you file/ "dont grind", your bar ! Put bar in vise and lay a flat file on top of the bar, use both thumbs to press down evenly and go from back to front to knock off that sharp edge that the chain makes as it goes around. Also keep file lengthwise with the bar. Use a mechanics table/ stone to check for straightness.( As far as Bent goes !) When greasing the nose of the bar just move chain back and forth, just over the sprocket area. "Not" all the way around the saw. Dont put in to much grease, as this will clog up your chain groove! And then the oil won't be able to flow!!! The chain is supposed to be bathed in the bar oil, at all times! Greasing the bar should be about3 to 7 pumps from a regular bar grease gun.
Thanks for the advice love watching your videos
Very helpful, thanks so much! None of our outdoor equipment retailers bothered to take the time to educate me!
Great tips on maintaining chain saw blades!! Thank you so much. Will do a better job with my chainsaws now!!! Keeping equipment going well is key to longevity and peace of mind... All priceless...☺
Another great informative video from Mrs Bre.
Very, very useful information - thanks!
Yep exactly, my brother's are loggers & have been all their lives & they are constantly flipping their bars back & forth for longer life.
You definitely schooled me! Growing up my dad always said make sure name was right side up.
Great information on chain bars , so much that gets overlooked. Keep the video’s coming I always enjoy them
Another great and informative video…informative and will presented. Thank you for starting this channel.
You are lucky your wood is so clean - I have to sharpen the chain more often, like once or twice each refuelling, so I dress and flip the bar each 5 l. of fuel.
The dreaded banana bar, I remember them from Skil! Believe Homelite had them too.
Great info thanks Chickanic👍
Thank you for all you do!
Excellent video, I wish you had been around 30 years ago when I was learning all this the hard way. As for flipping the bar over I just thought is was common sense, if the bar is symmetric on both sides, there is no reason or can't be flipped. I just talked to a guy the other day that has been using chain saws longer than me and he never realized that little hole near the nose sprocket was for grease.
Great info as ya do! 👍👍
Lake Havasu 🌞 Az
Alot of great info in one video,learned a few tricks to keep my tool in peak condition.
Lol the good ol' flippero! Ignore the haters and keep up the great content!
Yes ma'am you are exactly right about everything you said.
Great info! Many things I didn't know!