ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- Cleaning Shutter blades in MAMIYA-SEKOR 50mm 1:4.5 for the RB67.
There was A LOT oil in this shutter, but with some gently use of Lighter Fluid and a lot's Q-tip, it turn out to be very good and with the snappy sound from the shutter.
I only have problems when i would show how you come further in to the shutter, because one screw was gluet.
The front lens group has a focus adjustement, so take care when disassemble, there is a LITTLE BALL in the edge, and also remember to do some mark's before disassemble.
Here are some link's to different repair tool's:
Japan Hobby Tool rubber cone:
www.amazon.com...
18 different size rubber repair tool's:
www.amazon.com...
Divider Caliper Wing Compass:
www.amazon.co....
You can also buy this set.
Lens Repair Set with pointed, flat, half flat tips:
www.amazon.com...
JIS cross head screw driver's:
www.amazon.com...
Or this set, that is the set I use:
eustore.ifixit...
Lens cleaning wipes (PEC-PAD):
www.amazon.com...
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Thanks for your videos. Following this one and the 127mm one I’ve been able to fix the shutter of the 50mm lens. Thanks again :)
I think I'd need to videotape myself taking it apart so I could watch to see how to put it back together, lol
Thanks for this vedio
I got this same issue. Damn that looks hard to fix myself
Hey, thank you a lot for the video, i was wondering if you know how to remove the front element of the lens in orther to clean the inside of it. Thank you again
Have you ever opened up a Sekor C 50mm RB67 lens?
Hi, my Sekor 50mm has exactly the same problem: the shutter does not close first when I release it. The blades all look very clean from both sides. What else could cause this issue and how could I fix that? Many thanks, Phil
Oh goodness. This is totally a gift and talent. I have a Mamiya Rb67 proS with a kL lens but it won’t work any advice please thank you 😎❤️🇺🇸
I do not know anything about the "KL" lenses, but maybe it's the almost same as the Mamiya lenses.
This was very fascinating. I really enjoyed watching. Will you be doing any cleaning videos for the Mamiya / Sekor 55mm F 1.4? I just purchased a copy on Ebay today. The seller noted this "The glass is clean, but there is some internal dust. There is a small imperfection in the out edge of the rear element, but this does not affect images." I'd like to remove the dust. I'm just not sure how to go about doing it since every lens it built differently.
Thank's Prince, I do not at the moment have a Mamiya 55mm lens, but i'm planing a video about the 127mm lens and how to repair that. I know it's not build the same way but there should be some similar thing's.
mikeno62 Thanks for the response. I look forward to seeing that video too. Do you have any advice for reversing the yellowing effect of thorium oxide? I have had my Takumar wrapped in tinfoil for a few weeks. Exposing only the front element to the sun. Sadly doesn't seem to be working. I would really like to remove the yellowing. As the photos have a yellow cast. When compared to my nonradioative Pentax lens. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you for your time.
I have not yet try to remove the Thorium coating, some people mention that it's possible to remove with do some gently polishing.
I look on other's solution for that task, here is some:
nortega.com/fastest-tool-to-clear-yellowed-thorium-lenses/
and another from TH-cam:
th-cam.com/video/3CAaSgK6WsE/w-d-xo.html
HELP.!!! There is a flat metal ring which retains the front lens elements, held in place by 3 tiny screws. Mike''s excellent video shows it being removed at around 1.26. I removed mine around 5 years ago to clean the front element but couldn't get it apart any further, and now I've lost those 3 little screws! Can anybody tell me the size of the screws please?
When I look in the repair manual, in the “Parts Catalog” section in “Exploded Views” at pace 5, I think it’s the 3 screws just under the name plate/ring, the screw size should be 1,7 x 3,5mm. Here you can get the repair manual learncamerarepair.com/product.php?product=639&category=2&secondary=0
Hi, I have the identical lens, but the shutter does not fire at all when I manually check it by cocking and then de-cocking it manually off the body. The lens stops down ok and the shutter timing gear appears ok to the ear. Could it be oiled closed, or I have read abut a spring issue on the shutter that could be the cause?
Hi, I have the same lens and struggle to take it apart. The nameplate just wont come off and I don't want to drill holes in it. The lens works fine so far, but the front part with the filter thread and the name plate is loose and can be rotated about 90°. Do you know if that could be a problem, or how to fix it? So far it has only been annoying when using filters. Thanks in advance! David
Hi Mike !
Very nice video! I have a sekor c 50mm for my mamiya RB67, but the time ring is free from seiko mechanism... Can we fix it or it's just broken parts ? I didn't see tutorial about similar pb! I'm very afraid to let dust in it after open it ? What is the better way to clean lenses by the way ?
I hope I don't annoy you !
Thank you for help,
Henri
French
Great ! I wondered precisely how to disassemble the front lenses of the Sekor 65mm. This brings me to the answer, so it's necessary to play with the screwdriver which was not the case on the lenses I had disassembled so far (140mm macro
and 180mm)...
Are the screws in the Japanese JIS standard?
Hi, very impressive speed of repair! I cleaned a used 50mm yesterday and got it back together (one screw is left over?!). I also opened the shutter (by accident) but now I have a problem:
When the Lens is held facing down, the shutter blocks and doesn't allow me to wind it. I think that some gears stick to the front plate of the shutter. They seemed a little loose when I reassembled the shutter (moving up and down on their post).
Do you have a tip for me to get rid of this inconveinience?
Thanks for your great videos!
Great... Please do a video tutorial for a Mamiya RZ67 Lens 50mm ULD .. I want to repair the floating element that probably is no longer fully tightened ..I think..
Thank's Lorenzo, sorry, at the moment I do not have a Mamiya RZ67 Lens 50mm ULD.
mikeno62 I call a Mamiya Service Ceter and they told me that nobody must touch the floating elements ..anyway do you think I can open without lens calibration machine and clean the lens and I can repair tue aberration thai I have at f4.5? At 5.6 the lens works much better as usual but ...at 4.5 have too much aberration on the high lights..tnx!
This is a relevant question! I asked myself the same question. lens with a floating system seem to be more difficult to dismantle. What is the impact on photos when everything is up? Does not that require a specific setting that only Mamiya can do?
Is it really necessary to dissasmble so much to clean shutter? Seems like it could have been similarly cleaned with fewer parts removed. Yes? No?
Hi Jon
I see your point, but sometimes It's not easy to figure it out what make the trouble in a lens with shutter. Is it the slow gear that make's the problem (happen very often..) or, are there oil in the shutter blade system (sometimes it's not really easy to see).
Well in this case where there where oil on the shutter blades, i could have just taking off the lenses and get rid of the aperture ring and exposure ring. But i deside to just show other people how it works.
Cheers
Kenneth
mikeno62 Thanks for the quick response. I'm looking at a camera package that has 4 out of 5 lenses with some unknown shutter issues. Either the seller doesn't know what's up with the lenses or there will be a good amount of work in store to disassemble and clean. Just trying to see what I'm in for if I end up buying the gear. Thanks!
another great and helpful video. where did you get the plastic/rubber tools you used to remove the front and rear element? When you took out the rear element can it still be disassembled further? thanks.
Hi Carlo
Here you can get the rubber tools:
www.amazon.com/Sizes-Lens-Filter-Wrench-Rubber/dp/B00988D1BK/ref=pd_sim_p_34?ie=UTF8&refRID=000CM4T03EGDBQBD0JNT
Hi Carlo Tan,
I am wondering, did you ever find an answer to your question? Can the rear element be further disassembled?
Hi MikeMany thanks for your excellent video - much appreciated.My 50mm Sekor has fungus on the inside of the very front element.I have managed to remove the complete front element group but how do I remove the single front element? It looks like I have to unscrew the retaining ring in front of it but I can't move it. I think there is some clear cement on there, Is that normal? Have I missed something?
Hi all, I just had the same problem with a 180 mm C lens. It was easy to remove the lens element group as a whole but then I just couldn't remove the front element. I guess the thread was glued with some sort of cement. I covered the lens with some duct tape (I didn't want to dip it in acid) and prepared a solution of 3% citric acid (3 g in 100 g water). I put the lens element group in it (only up to the point that the thread submerged in the solution) and let it incubate for 1h at room temperature. Citric acid shouldn't harm the metal case still I didn't want to push my luck and so I left it in there for only 1h. Following that the front element would easily come off and I could access the lenses inside to remove the fungus. I used 2-Propanol and Zeiss optical wipes to get rid of it. I hope I could be of help...
Is there any sound? Thank you for the video though.
There's no sound because it's a "motion-Lapse" video.
Hi, is this an RZ or RB lens? I have an RZ 110mm with haze on the inside lenses, can I take it apart in the same way? And what can I use to clean the lenses? I bought the plastic wrench you put the link to in Amazon.
Thanks for this video!
I have just change the "About info", yes this lens is a RB67 lens, it's fully mechanical shutter.
The RZ67 has electronic shutter.
The RZ67 lenses are disassemble the ALMOST same way as the RB67 lenses, but of course there are some different things that one has to take care of, specially the thin flex cable.
The shutter are also electro/mechanical, so there are not the same amount of gear wheel's and small spring's.
You can clean the lenses with even Isopropylalcohol 99% or Lighter Fluid and of course clean real lens tissues.
(Here are some more info from.
camera-wiki.org/wiki/Mamiya_RB67
camera-wiki.org/wiki/Mamiya_RZ67
The RZ models can use many of the RB components, such as lenses and backs, but with limitations, as the RB series cameras are completely mechanical, while the RZ lenses have Seiko #1 electronic shutters and electronic components are used throughout the camera).
mikeno62 thanks! I just want to clean the lens, not mess around with the shutter, what's the flex cable? And would I need to worry about it if I only clean and disassemble the lens part? Would you happen to have a video of an RZ lens?
Thanks in advanced!
and after you do this yourself, sweep up the pieces, put them in a basket, go out, and buy a replacement.
Well, that was another solution... Hihi :-)
What is the name of the thing you used to remove the first part that says the lens type?
It's a rubber tool, and I have put some link's to those tool's I use in the description.
Here are some link's to different repair tool's:
Japan Hobby Tool rubber cone:
www.amazon.com/Japan-Vacuum-Camera-Opener-Repair/dp/B0013HFYKK/ref=pd_sbs_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0013HFYKK&pd_rd_r=RKSF5A4YKT9GV3E1382C&pd_rd_w=5H58m&pd_rd_wg=DBny2&psc=1&refRID=RKSF5A4YKT9GV3E1382C
18 different size rubber repair tool's:
www.amazon.com/Sizes-Lens-Filter-Wrench-Rubber/dp/B00988D1BK/ref=pd_sbs_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00988D1BK&pd_rd_r=RKSF5A4YKT9GV3E1382C&pd_rd_w=5H58m&pd_rd_wg=DBny2&psc=1&refRID=RKSF5A4YKT9GV3E1382C
Divider Caliper Wing Compass:
www.amazon.co.uk/Divider-Caliper-Compass-Marking-Machinist/dp/B015CN9A8M
You can also buy this set.
Lens Repair Set with pointed, flat, half flat tips:
www.amazon.com/dp/B00QRPWCN0/ref=psdc_3347581_t1_B00J5F6O92
JIS cross head screw driver's:
www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0219-Chromium-Screwdriver/dp/B004PGO1T6/ref=pd_sim_421_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PGO1T6&pd_rd_r=775KBDR03D8PMMEZWKFJ&pd_rd_w=ti7yC&pd_rd_wg=s2a40&psc=1&refRID=775KBDR03D8PMMEZWKFJ
Or this set, that is the set I use:
eustore.ifixit.com/en/Tools/Drivers-Wrenches/JIS-Driver-Set.html?Fixit&Referral&
Lens cleaning wipes (PEC-PAD):
www.amazon.com/dp/B0161VIZZ8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0161VIZZ8&pd_rd_wg=ZTxxY&pd_rd_r=RNY8S6Q1V5K18K3F61VZ&pd_rd_w=2c1Oy
mikeno62 is it necessary to dismantle as far as you did? Or can I just remove the front element and rear element until shutter is exposed on both sides?
Also, I think this was tried before on my lens and the aperture is off. When manually activating shutter, it stops down even when set at widest aperture.
No Sound Lousy to watch.