Mig Welder feed fix
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- I try to show how to diagnose and fix a wire feed issue on a mig welder. In my case, a Hobart 135, but applicable to many.
After a few seconds of running wire, the feed motor would slow and stop. A few minutes later, it would start again only to stop. After reading a lot about similar issues, I decided to tackle it myself. I bought the repair parts on Ebay for $11 (Hobart PTC1 repair kit).
Having this welder functional will enable me to better sheet metal repair on my Jeep.
Man God bless you brother I just bought a hobart 190 mig welder and my spool motor stopped working and now I know how to fix it your a life saver brother thank you for sharing this fix I thought i just waisted almost a thousand dollars your the man
Wooo! I hope it helps. Since this vid, I used this little guy to patch a lot of holes and replace my floorboards in my wagoneer. It's holding up just fine!
I seriously love videos like this. Was having issues with mine and found this video! Fixed! Thank you!
Sweet! Glad it helped. I'm no youtuber so I'm glad my crappy vid helped!
That blue part called a capacitor is also known as a shock component. It stores electricity to shock you with if you happen to touch it. Especially true if there are no bleeder resistors to drawn the voltage down in a timely manner. Don't touch the blue thingy. If you really want to play it safe, put one hand in your pocket, then with a screwdriver short the terminals out. Do this only when it is unplugged.
Great video. Thanks.
I’m having this issue and will jump this fuse and hopefully that is my problem. Thanks 👍🏻
Brilliant - this is indeed my issue - have ordered the parts. Thanks for posting!!
Great! Hope it works!
thanks for the video thats exactly what happened to my handler 135
Thank you so much. Fixed my welder that I got for free.
Sweet! Doesn't it feel awesome?!
Thank you very much ! Fixed my welder right up !
Sweet! Glad it worked for you!
I have the exact same model Hobart welder which doesn't feed at all. Thanks for the tips.
There may be hope for a repair after all.
Try feeding the fees motor with 12v first. The $12 kit on eBay was definitely worth it. I haven't used all of the components because my fix was it. But I kept them just in case. If all else fails, just replace the individual components as they all manage feed in some way.
The motor ran when fed 12 V from my battery charger so I know it's not the problem. Also jumping the thermistor sensor didn't have any effect on running the feed motor. I'm going to order both the thermistor and the transistor today just as you did. I got the welder from nu neighbor for free and at one time it did work but I couldn't get consistent welds. It finally stopped altogether.
@@Rich22C They are pretty simple machines altogether. In particular, if it did work at one point, then over time stopped, it points more and more to electronic elements. Good luck! Let me know if it works.
@@comfort_in_discomfort - I received the parts kit & installed the thermistor and the transistor. It still wasn't feeding & what had me puzzled is that the motor would run when fed from my battery charged but not when fed from the circuit board.
After doing some reading on the Hobart web site I found someone who had the same problem.....which was having the voltage set to "PURGE" position. It won't feed at all. It appeared to be the problem all along. At least I didn't spend all that much to learn my lesson.
Now all I have to do is learn how to use the machine well enough to do some simple repairs on my lawn mower deck. I'm not looking for perfection, only some welds that are functional.
Thanks again.
@@Rich22C Well thats great news! Keep the parts and start practicing. I started with Flux core wire (no gas). More splatter, but I didn't have a gas bottle. Now welding with a bottle and standard MIG wire. Much cleaner, but you have to manage the gas (just another variable). Good luck!
I’m having issues with my welder wire drive motor no turning at all. Hooked it to a 12v dc source and it worked perfectly. Plug it back into the machine and it does work at all. Everything else works as it should but when I hit the trigger the relay clicks but the motor never turns… hope you could possibly help. Thanks
Mine stopped spining alltogether,my question is would this keep it from arching on ground also?, or is there 2 issues i may have?
Good question. I don't think it would not arc without a feed.
Hi Hobart handler 140 problem only fan working no arc no wire feeding google say the thermostat tp1 is badis it the one or someting else thank you.
My ez 125 stops and starts as I weld it’s not feeding then feeds and so on. Any ideas? Thanks
I would check the wheel tension first. Check that the wire spool can move and check that the feed wheels are engaging on the wire sufficiently. If that's OK, I would run the wheels without a weld (no wire) just to see if the motor is ok. If it does the same thing with no wire, then continue to trace the problem back. They are very simple machines.
I'm only getting .24v to the wire feed motor any ideas what is the problem? Changing wire speed doesn't alter power going to the feed motor.
Yeah that doesn't sound right. Is there voltage coming out of the rotary switch? Try tracing the voltage to the component where it stops. If you can verify that the speed control has voltage, my guess is the thermistor.
Went to use welder the other day and no wire feed. Found that motor was seized and also little or no power going to motor. Have ordered a new motor that is 21v with same dimensions but believe something else is also a problem. Welder is a liquid arc handimig 170i made by lincoln l believe. Do you think 21v motor will be ok?
Well, here is a link to the Lincoln parts. I'm not sure but I think this is the motor. Pretty spendy. weldingmart.com/lincoln-electric-parts-wire-feed-motor-s24355-4/
Depending on where you are, here is an Australian link. Contacting them may be good
www.migwell.com.au/catalog/category/view/s/liquid-arc/id/746/
And thirdly, is you search Amazon or AliExpress for "mig wire feed motor" there are lots of options, I'm just not sure which would work for your welder.
Thank you for the great informative video, any tips for the soldering and heat sink material for the board
Great video!
Thanks for the visit!
I have same issues with my Hobart Handler 120. But does not have circuit board. Can you suggest a fix, would really appreciate the help. Thank you.
According to the manual for your welder (see link) there must be a board that controls the drive as it is a variable speed machine. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.hobartwelders.com/files/owners-manuals/O210088D_HOB.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwij2syUnpTqAhVjiOAKHUAWDmcQFjADegQIAhAC&usg=AOvVaw3H0pfoh4koC65WOHsz0MiC
Did you try 12v to the drive motor?
Hello can the 175 hobat do aluminium welding?
Sure. But it needs an aluminum spool and different gas.
I have a hobart welder and am having problems with the wire arking inside the tip and sticking there
I've never had the arcing issue. But I have had clogging. I use a Lincoln tip cleaning kit ($3) as a part of regular maintenance. Essentially small bits. I've also noticed that some of the tip I use are pretty tight so a slight ream seems to help. In terms of your arc issue, it may be related to your clogging or dragging. If the tip is too small, it may cause something called burnback.
Thanks very helpful
My Hobart 135 does something slightly different. It runs on all wire speeds, but doesn't have power/torque to push the wire with enough pressure to weld, no matter what tension I put on the wire. I can hold the wire at the tip of the gun and it will stop. Any idea what part is causing this problem? Thanks in advance and thanks for the video.
Are you sure it's applying pressure on the wire (the drive wheel)? You should not be able to pull the wire easily if there is tension.
@@comfort_in_discomfort yes, tried all of the tensions, but no joy
@Big Frank's World hmmm... Did you check your liner? I've kinked mine before and it caused something very similar. If you remove all tension from the drive wheel, can you pull the wore through the nozzle? Or even remove the nozzle and check. If it's free, and your nozzle isn't blocked and is the right size, then I would start going down the path of thermistor.
@@comfort_in_discomfort yes, even installed a new gun and liner. Still no joy .
I'm going to do some more testing, including the thermistor this weekend.
Any idea what relay is cr1 is? There is 2 that are the same. My welder arcs before I hit the trigger.
The repair kit I purchased on Ebay came with one relay. The kit was titled "HOBART HANDLER 135 CONTROL BOARD 195886 ** REPAIR KIT**" and cost $12 and comes with other wear items. The relay number is NT90RNCS24CB. I'd just replace both. Take a look at this Ebay link for the listing (not affiliated) rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153165778756
@@comfort_in_discomfort- After checking numerous sites looking for only the transistor alone this seems to be the best deal around. At least I'll have a few extra parts for the future should I need them.
my 140 keeps bird nesting meaning the wire gets bunched up in the welder.....I fixed it by adjusting the tension but its doing it again. any tips are greatly appreciated?
Have you checked if the wire will pass freely through the tip or the sheath? On mine, even though the tip was .025 for my wire, I had to ream the hole just a bit. If your drive tension is correct, the only other issue is that the resistance pushing against it is too high.
You could read the side and with a soldering kit replace the capacitor and your ready to rock. I wouldn't just bypass it. They are there to protect the machine. That's not a thermostat. 👷
www.elprocus.com/capacitors-types-applications/
Well I used this video a year ago to fix the same problem. Now when I run the welder with no wire the speed stays same.
But when there's tension with the wire put in, no matter what size wire, or setting on the tensioner the wire just slows down and drags.
I have clean new tips etc. This happens with all wire sizes. Any ideas?
Did you check the mechanical part (the rollers that drive the wire)? Maybe tension is too high? Did you try the same fix again (bypass the thermistor) to check it? Not sure where to go from there.
@@comfort_in_discomfort tension is good. I'm going to recheck the thermistor today. I also pulled the gun liner and there is a bent kink close to the where the hose attaches to the feed
@@rlfdavin the kink could do it. If there is that much resistance, it could cause the thermistor to slowly temp out.
Date I straightened the kink out and it seems to be running fine now. This will get me by until my new gun liner gets here
@@rlfdavin whew. Glad it was something simple.
how did it end up working under load, pushing wire?
Been working great. Have used it extensively for the last 2 years. No stoppage.
It is imposible to regulate the wire speed in my mig welder, its just going on full speed. Can you give me some advice ?
The display for the amps dosen t work either
The speed is controlled by a potentiometer. In my case it is a small rotary knob. It is basically a resistor that changes resistance to the motor. My unit is not digital. I would take some electronic spray cleaner and clean first. But I don't know about the display. I assume typically the weakest points are contact points.
@@comfort_in_discomfort The pot is working good. Any other idea ?
@@arminmeier3361 what welder is it?
@@arminmeier3361 The only welders I have experience with are traditional mig welders. If they have a digital display, they may still be working in a similar way. If you are certain that the pot is correct, then Should be a large silver transistor marked Q1 either on the pcb or wired to it, it is probably shorted. As long as you have checked the pot and it is OK.
The transistor should be marked Q1 or 2N. They may be internally shorted. I would look on Ebay for service parts for your welder. I'm afraid that's the best I can do. Good luck.
Mine was doing the same thing, I just tested it and it's not doing it know?
If it was, it probably will again. The repair parts are only a few $. Buy the parts, and if it happens again, repair.
Liked your video. I have a hobart 120. When i set mach on 1 and turn wire speed down for 18 ga.it doesn’t want to weld. I know wire speed an voltage are inter linked how to test for voltage problems. It works on setting 1. And wire speed on 7.5. But way to much wire. Thanks.
Wire speed and amperage (not voltsge) are not linked in the machine. But they are two variables in what you want to weld. When you say it doesnt want to weld 18ga, did you try different settings? Slower speed and higher amperage?
Comfort in Discomfort. Your rite it is ampere, i thought i read turn up wire speed it turns up amps turn down wire speed it turns down amps. I turn down wire speed and it isn’t hot enough. Ive had this welder 25 years use to work. Puzzled. Maybe restate dirty. Thanks.
Exelente
What rpm is the motor?
I'm not sure. The RPM depends on how fast you want the wire to feed.
Isn't that a ceramic capacitor?
No it’s a thermistor- essentially a fuse that opens the circuit when it gets hot.
Exactly. Sometimes they wear out and open too soon.
Actually point of clarification- this is known as a varistor- does the same thing as a thermistor but it’s a function of current draw rather than temperature. Works the same way though.
@@gnapert cheers. Looks like a ceramic capacitor
@@gnapert My vulcan omnipro 220 welder runs wire for exactly 2 seconds, then stops. I can immediately pull the trigger and it will feed for exactly 2 seconds and stop again. No slowing issues or wait time for it to reset. Any thoughts?
Mines locked up