Sorry for bothering you but some help would be awesome!I have a problem with the same model.It just won't start.The symtoms are that when you turn the safety key and press m to start the bike is just dead.The battery is at 48.8V but it won't start.There's one thing more,when I pres the horn and the m at the same time and turn the key on and off for several times,every time the horn sounds for like is at almost full power to low voltage sound in a second or two and the display shows for a second every 5-6time of switching on and off key.What do you think might the problem be?Thanks in advance.
I had this wierd starting up problem with new battery... with old battery I reduced max amp to 9 because it was making slighty eletric burning smell when I increased speed limit, but new battery didn't wanna start up until I changed max amp to 12 with old battery and then swap back new one. I always kept 48volt from settings since they work at 54volt at 100% charged. Also calculations dosn't make sense since 12x48 is 576watt and my new battery was 480watt. I have no clue how to fix your problem, but I was suprised that max amp amounts can prevent it to starting up...
Friend nice video but I wanted to ask you why you disassembled the wheel and did it re-greasing the wheel I heard a noise you heard some Cicoli, because the noise because you re-greased the wheel
I am French I have the same bike, they are originally lubricated with bad grease there is a noise from 30 km of use, especially after an outing in the rain with the bike the engine growls.
My LO 26 battery will only charge to 74% then the charger lights green, any ideas anyone why my battery will not go to 100% ? i have only done 103 miles on it.
@@TrippleZ3D Hi, yes it turned out it was a dead cell group inside the battery, 1 series group was all on 0 volts so 4 x 18650 calls had all died in one series group out of 13 series groups, hence why it was only charging to 74%
Thank you.That was my first problem,the second appeard later,the bike wont start at all,when you turn the key on and press m nothing happeneds,dead display,no lights, it just womt start!Have you got any clue?
@@TrippleZ3D Not an expert here, but sounds to me that the voltage levels have dropped below the minimum for the BMS, so it will no longer charge/Discharge To be honest, i solved my problem by removing the old battery in the frame, and just behind the Discharge panel is where the controller sits after removing the 3 screws, connected a XT 60, put a rack on the back and bought a 20ah battery that fits into Bag that straps to the rear rack, and wired it through to the controller, my bike now does twice the millage now and i have no issues whatsoever.....The samebike LO26 M-Nine Stock batterries are terrible in my opinion with generic cells inside. which is why i modified my bike after mine started to go bad after just over 100 miles only.
Good morning..YOur videoas are very explanatory and great for someone that gets into e bikes..I got a small issue..I want to change my samebike lo26 rims...I have the traditional spokes wheels but i want to change them into the ones your bike have...Will i have to vhange the motor as well or the same motor fitsinto both types of rims?And if yes where do i buy them?Maybe contact samebike factory straight?Do you have any emails that you used to contact them cause the ones i sent them they didnt reply...O i forgot to ask you..Do you maybe have spare wheels to sell me ?:) thx in advance Kostis
Did it work?? Also I don't suppose you worked out the gear ratio of the motor while you had it apart? I managed to count the magnets at 20, by watching your video, but the gear ratio is a little harder. I just upgraded my LO26 controller for a torque simulated version which IMO is much better, but need the gear ratio to set the controller up properly..
Helpful videos, thanks. This motor relies on heat transfer to the wheel for cooling. I wonder if you put too much grease in there which may have contributed to your subsequent motor burn out. The grease can act as an insulator, increasing heat build up. The hub gets hot on big hills but I've managed 3000k without a burnout. Recently I did a free hack of the motor controller, shunting the amp sensor wire. th-cam.com/video/HmqcrQeXuN4/w-d-xo.html It's pulling about 1000 watts now (way more than what the motor (350watt) is designed to handle )and just roars up hills. I only use increased power carefully and so far, no burnout. We'll see how long it lasts.
Shunt mod will weaken your battery quicker as the mod is asking for more amps from the battery. I done it on mine got way less miles plus motor and controller were hotter but was alot of fun now I just got a bigger controller get the same fun but alot safer
@@RandomClips27. Yeah, you have to be mindful of the extra stress you're putting on the entire system including the battery. In very hot weather this is particularly important. As of this writing the only failure I've had was a motor wire connector just down line of the motor controller. The connector couldn't handle the extra amperage. Soldering that power wire connection solved that problem. Otherwise the battery, controller and motor are still doing fine. I suspect the battery is the weak point on the set up so I use full throttle (about 1200 watt draw) sparingly. The motor and the controller get quite hot. I think my controller has not burnt out yet because I have the MOSFET side of the case jammed against the aluminum frame of the bike with thermal conducting grease allowing additional heat sinking.
do you know which bearings samebike uses, or which ones that I can get to replace mine?
Sorry for bothering you but some help would be awesome!I have a problem with the same model.It just won't start.The symtoms are that when you turn the safety key and press m to start the bike is just dead.The battery is at 48.8V but it won't start.There's one thing more,when I pres the horn and the m at the same time and turn the key on and off for several times,every time the horn sounds for like is at almost full power to low voltage sound in a second or two and the display shows for a second every 5-6time of switching on and off key.What do you think might the problem be?Thanks in advance.
I had this wierd starting up problem with new battery... with old battery I reduced max amp to 9 because it was making slighty eletric burning smell when I increased speed limit, but new battery didn't wanna start up until I changed max amp to 12 with old battery and then swap back new one. I always kept 48volt from settings since they work at 54volt at 100% charged. Also calculations dosn't make sense since 12x48 is 576watt and my new battery was 480watt. I have no clue how to fix your problem, but I was suprised that max amp amounts can prevent it to starting up...
Friend nice video but I wanted to ask you why you disassembled the wheel and did it re-greasing the wheel I heard a noise you heard some Cicoli, because the noise because you re-greased the wheel
I am French I have the same bike, they are originally lubricated with bad grease there is a noise from 30 km of use, especially after an outing in the rain with the bike the engine growls.
I regreased to reduce the noise.
sam..ebike
It's so obvious.
My LO 26 battery will only charge to 74% then the charger lights green, any ideas anyone why my battery will not go to 100% ? i have only done 103 miles on it.
Same problem here.Have you discovered the problem?
@@TrippleZ3D Hi, yes it turned out it was a dead cell group inside the battery, 1 series group was all on 0 volts so 4 x 18650 calls had all died in one series group out of 13 series groups, hence why it was only charging to 74%
Thank you.That was my first problem,the second appeard later,the bike wont start at all,when you turn the key on and press m nothing happeneds,dead display,no lights, it just womt start!Have you got any clue?
@@TrippleZ3D Not an expert here, but sounds to me that the voltage levels have dropped below the minimum for the BMS, so it will no longer charge/Discharge To be honest, i solved my problem by removing the old battery in the frame, and just behind the Discharge panel is where the controller sits after removing the 3 screws, connected a XT 60, put a rack on the back and bought a 20ah battery that fits into Bag that straps to the rear rack, and wired it through to the controller, my bike now does twice the millage now and i have no issues whatsoever.....The samebike LO26 M-Nine Stock batterries are terrible in my opinion with generic cells inside. which is why i modified my bike after mine started to go bad after just over 100 miles only.
Is it due to battery being faulty?
Good morning..YOur videoas are very explanatory and great for someone that gets into e bikes..I got a small issue..I want to change my samebike lo26 rims...I have the traditional spokes wheels but i want to change them into the ones your bike have...Will i have to vhange the motor as well or the same motor fitsinto both types of rims?And if yes where do i buy them?Maybe contact samebike factory straight?Do you have any emails that you used to contact them cause the ones i sent them they didnt reply...O i forgot to ask you..Do you maybe have spare wheels to sell me ?:) thx in advance Kostis
Did it work?? Also I don't suppose you worked out the gear ratio of the motor while you had it apart? I managed to count the magnets at 20, by watching your video, but the gear ratio is a little harder. I just upgraded my LO26 controller for a torque simulated version which IMO is much better, but need the gear ratio to set the controller up properly..
Anyone know why the back wheel is making a rubbing noise when peddaling or using the motor
Hi, it’s a longshot question but where did you get the replacement motor? Their contact details would be very much appreciated.
Hi I just got a replacement motor under warranty. I think I do have the details somewhere of where to buy one. Will check this out.
@@tristatetech Thanks. Let me know when you find the details. Much appreciated.
Helpful videos, thanks.
This motor relies on heat transfer to the wheel for cooling. I wonder if you put too much grease in there which may have contributed to your subsequent motor burn out. The grease can act as an insulator, increasing heat build up. The hub gets hot on big hills but I've managed 3000k without a burnout.
Recently I did a free hack of the motor controller, shunting the amp sensor wire. th-cam.com/video/HmqcrQeXuN4/w-d-xo.html
It's pulling about 1000 watts now (way more than what the motor (350watt) is designed to handle )and just roars up hills. I only use increased power carefully and so far, no burnout. We'll see how long it lasts.
Shunt mod will weaken your battery quicker as the mod is asking for more amps from the battery. I done it on mine got way less miles plus motor and controller were hotter but was alot of fun now I just got a bigger controller get the same fun but alot safer
@@RandomClips27. Yeah, you have to be mindful of the extra stress you're putting on the entire system including the battery. In very hot weather this is particularly important. As of this writing the only failure I've had was a motor wire connector just down line of the motor controller. The connector couldn't handle the extra amperage. Soldering that power wire connection solved that problem. Otherwise the battery, controller and motor are still doing fine. I suspect the battery is the weak point on the set up so I use full throttle (about 1200 watt draw) sparingly. The motor and the controller get quite hot. I think my controller has not burnt out yet because I have the MOSFET side of the case jammed against the aluminum frame of the bike with thermal conducting grease allowing additional heat sinking.