I'm a BMW technician myself but I love to watch these videos 😆 it's just more than work, it's a hobby. Greetings from Berlin 😉 subbed and liked for the algorithm
one of the best professional DIY channels, in my opinion, it is a BMW oriented, and full of valuable fundamental technical information. keep up the great work, cheers and good luck
Modern brakes don't gas out like they did back in the 70's, cross drilled rotors are purely for aesthetics (they do look cool). Most of what makes the brake pedal so firm on your M3 especially compared to the 335 is the mono-block caliper vs the floating single piston caliper, it's much more rigid and doesn't flex. Stainless lines aren't a bad idea for a car with high miles, and swapping out your fluid often always an overlooked service. Great content as usual, hope you are enjoying the new car.
Like, share, subscribe. This guy is a genius. So intelligent. Thanks for such a cool channel without all the pretentious crap fed to us from various others. So refreshing.
The most professional and informative TH-cam BMW fix channel. I appreciate all the small intricacies to your videos. Superb footage and narration. Keep up the good work. Kudos from England 👌.
Great video. Here in middle georgia, we have very high moisture. Changing break fluid regularly on my high performance cars, makes a huge difference. Great explanation of whats happening under high temps, and hard breaking!!
So much new knowledge I've learned in this video - as with every video. I finally know why brake rotors are drilled. Love your videos : truly packed with technical information. Well done !
It's worth mentioning, you're a Southern US car with little to no rust, Most people won't be able to remove their brake lines as easily, for most people they'll simply shear at the join (it did to me, UK car) and I had to replace the whole line, The rear 2 center lines on my car have literally an inch of rust on them 😂 Decided to leave the stock rubber lines on and go for a brembo Gt6 / gt4 setup, I've never had a good pedal on this car despite bleeding with a pressure bleeder, ista, inpa and ista dsc rework etc etc
I took my 390HP 135i to the track and quickly cooked the brakes. It has six piston calipers and track compound pads, but even with track fluid, it was a struggle. Will probably upgrade to later BMW calipers and rotors if I want to keep taking this car to the track.
SRF is THE best brake fluid! I've done a lot of trackdays and ringlaps with it and it's perfect. Just make sure to renew it a bit more often than normal brake fluid.
@@ModMINI www.corvetteforum.com/forums/autocrossing-and-roadracing/2746522-which-one-motul-rbf600-or-ate-super-blue.html#post1576316722 General consensus is SRF is best around, if tracking routinely. But requires flushes more often for normal use. For street, ATe, Motul, should be fine.
You never disappoint with these truely informative and professional videos!... don’t know whether your garage has enough height clearance, but as your channel grows ( which is a certainty) maybe you could install a lift... it would be a big upgrade and worthwhile for the extra flexibility of content you could feature on your channel.
Have you considered brass sleeves for the caliper pins? ECS tuning makes a really nice set for $200.00 (for all 4 wheels) & it comes with SS pins. I’d also recommend SS rotor screws as well; especially if you live in the rust belt or a NE part of the country. Only downside to brass sleeves is that you have to re-grease the sleeves once a year. I use CRC silaramic brake grease & I still have to grease them 1x a year.
When using INPA to bleed: Do you just let the system self bleed per wheel, then go and tighten the nipple? There shouldn't be air in the lines after a bleed as long as the main reservoir is topped up?
Is there any way to contact you? Fitting a bmw sunroof in a 1 series and would like to know if I can wire it up to the car as “factory” like you did with the manual conversion
Yes I’ve been waiting for this! This is the point of where I’m at with my build, my pure turbo N55 e92 is right around the 400whp mark on pump gas. Curious to see which aftermarket rotor you will decide on.👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
@@VehicularDIY Speaking on the E82. Some 135s come with factory Brembos with a M logo that are compatible with the E90 chassis. Those with the Zimmerman rotors and akebono pads would be my ideal setup👌🏼
I'll eventually get back to that. I don't think it was installation error, I think it was a form of oil starvation from a potentially bad oil pump but more digging is needed.
Have you ever considered the Brass Guide Pin Bushings that ECS Tuning sells? They seem like another good solution paired with the Stainless Lines and upgraded fluid.
Ive been following your videos since the steering wheel upgrades and after seeing your vid on the helix kit and more power, I've been curious for my car. Im currently on pure600 turbos on a custom tune for 91 Octane. Im still on the fence about the helix kit. Do you have any thoughts or suggestions you could share for some looking to make power in the 500whp range? I'm at 460 at the moment, but my fueling is maxed out. Thanks in advance.
@@VehicularDIY my car had 203xxx miles. I tried an e40 mix tune with David Shoup and found out that my fueling is not capable. Im on a stage2 LPFP from fuelit and my HPFP is still pretty strong
Wait , what bled the brakes ? What pumped the fluid through ? The ABS pump ? I always used the Motive power bleeder on my M6 works great , ECS has a nice stainless steel exact fitment kit that looks nice I have Banjo bolts on my front Calipers there Carbon Ceramics
Greetings, I switched to the Bosch ENV6 and the feel is still fantastic, even with high sollicitations (in addition to a high durability - it's been 2 years so far). But I am far from being a professional. Would you have any opinion/feedback on ENV6 ?
@@ModMINI I used to use ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid in My XK8 and X50i, but no longer sold in US. Now I just use RBF600 and change it yearly, but Castrol SRF looks good as well.
The problem with any racing brake fluid is the fact that is has a shorter service life. Example: Motul normal brake fluid is supposed to be changed every two years, racing one is every year.
Watching your videos over time, I know you've gone through multiple BMW software installs (INPA, etc) do you have VehicularDIY for installing the linked software?
@@VehicularDIY it'd be awesome if you did one. I'm sure it's not as straightforward as it sounds given variables of operating systems, e.t.c. but even if you just showed us the steps you took to install the software it'd be very appreciated. After 30 minutes trying to figure out the linked with no progress and multiple internet searches I gave up
I’ve tracked my 335 with just drilled/slotted rotors, pads, fluid, and lines, and honestly I really don’t have a need for a BBK at the moment. The only reason to upgrade is for better lookin brakes, which I also want 🤣
I'm looking into pads and rotors and will put up a follow up video. I like Akebono pads and zimmerman coated and drilled rotors. I'll do some research and let you guys know.
I have boiled the fluid on the track more than once. It would be hard to do it on the street; you would almost have to be trying to do it intentionally.
@@VehicularDIY Nice looking wheel, assume that would mean staying on 18"? What is your opinion on these versus your M3 competition setup, considering similar power on both, what differences have you noticed regarding the bigger wheels? (Apologies if this is apples & oranges, appreciate there are a lot more differences than just bigger wheels, but considering changing wheels on my e92 and wonder if 19" are just vanity, or will I get advantages?)
There's really no advantage to stainless steel brake lines. Performance brake fluid only really helps if you race or track the car. It's just brake fluid after all. I think it was the first time that you changed the brake fluid is why the sponginess went away.
Thißnis kind of misleading as that brake fluid is silicone based meaning it will not absorb water. I am not aware you can use silicone based fluid in cars not designed to run it.
The technical nonsense is all legit. No fake information here. The one thing is stainless lines tend to help with slightly firmer pedal feel as the hoses expand less under pressure which results in a bit less pedal travel.
Hey, i need some serious help with my car. I been everywhere, i own a 2007 335i, and for the life of me can not figure out my RPM oscillation issue i been having nonstop. I can't afford a BMW diagnostics. I hope you can please help me with this. Maybe an email? Number? Something. I looked all over the BMW forums and everything. I'm sort of at a dead end. I would die if you messaged me back.
I'm a BMW technician myself but I love to watch these videos 😆 it's just more than work, it's a hobby. Greetings from Berlin 😉 subbed and liked for the algorithm
one of the best professional DIY channels, in my opinion, it is a BMW oriented, and full of valuable fundamental technical information. keep up the great work, cheers and good luck
Modern brakes don't gas out like they did back in the 70's, cross drilled rotors are purely for aesthetics (they do look cool). Most of what makes the brake pedal so firm on your M3 especially compared to the 335 is the mono-block caliper vs the floating single piston caliper, it's much more rigid and doesn't flex. Stainless lines aren't a bad idea for a car with high miles, and swapping out your fluid often always an overlooked service. Great content as usual, hope you are enjoying the new car.
I upgraded my E90 N54 with stoptech slotted rotors and Hawk street race pads and fresh fluid night and day difference I highly recommend
Nice, thanks for the feedback.
That's exactly the set up Im waiting on. Running the 5.0 Hawk pads.
Good to see e90 content. I have zero interest in the new cars save the engine.
Yeah I plan on keeping it around. Still lots of stuff to try like a single turbo plus exhaust etc.
Same. Im not interested in something i cant afford 😂
Same lol🤣😂
@@ililiililliliill9498 😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
Can't afford now maybe. I would have said the same back when the e90's came out.
Another reason to own BMW - you will likely become pretty decent in German given the frequent INPA software interaction. Servus!
Haha yeah
After 3 years of ownership and a manual swap I can confirm this
German inpa is so annoying! Can’t seem to get it all in English so google translate comes out to play lol
@@br4d101 IKR The fault codes are not possible to get in english😴
@Preston Malik u have trust issues!
Yoooo wtf my man casually pops in the G80 talking about “the difference between this car” 😂😂 you sick man
Like, share, subscribe. This guy is a genius. So intelligent.
Thanks for such a cool channel without all the pretentious crap fed to us from various others.
So refreshing.
nice simple mod most people dont even think about. good work
The most professional and informative TH-cam BMW fix channel. I appreciate all the small intricacies to your videos. Superb footage and narration. Keep up the good work. Kudos from England 👌.
Great video. Here in middle georgia, we have very high moisture. Changing break fluid regularly on my high performance cars, makes a huge difference. Great explanation of whats happening under high temps, and hard breaking!!
I just bought the same kit because I’m feeling the sponginess you’re talking about when I go on canyon runs for hours.
Commenting for algorithm. great content as always.
Thanks!
So much new knowledge I've learned in this video - as with every video. I finally know why brake rotors are drilled. Love your videos : truly packed with technical information. Well done !
I have an e90..amazed at ur understanding of mechanics..and u teach it so well..well done sir....Er...I not gonna do it..love the details lol
Thanks for showing the electronic bleed process.
It's worth mentioning, you're a Southern US car with little to no rust,
Most people won't be able to remove their brake lines as easily, for most people they'll simply shear at the join (it did to me, UK car) and I had to replace the whole line,
The rear 2 center lines on my car have literally an inch of rust on them 😂
Decided to leave the stock rubber lines on and go for a brembo Gt6 / gt4 setup,
I've never had a good pedal on this car despite bleeding with a pressure bleeder, ista, inpa and ista dsc rework etc etc
Noted, yeah I used to live in Canada so can relate. Thanks
Same here. I now also have all new brake hardlines to go with the steel flexy lines :)
Mexico? Nevada is where I let mine roll. Cruise at 120 , run him to 145 occasionally and he is still pulling
Definitely going to try to this. I think it will be a huge help with my heavy e93! Great content and info per usual!
Golden Knowledge bombs... We Appreciate them. TY 👊🏽
Great video as usual. Just done a smiliar job myself and was really pleased with the improvement
I took my 390HP 135i to the track and quickly cooked the brakes. It has six piston calipers and track compound pads, but even with track fluid, it was a struggle. Will probably upgrade to later BMW calipers and rotors if I want to keep taking this car to the track.
Did you have drilled rotors on three?
@@VehicularDIY Not three. Drilled rotors just on the front two wheels, not the back two.
Notifications on, professional content
And of course like everything else they are sold out on the brake lines. Another great video! Hope all is well!
Yeah inventory has been tricky for the last few months for a number of industries. Thanks! Hope all is well on your end.
Try the brass caliper guide pin bushings. They eliminate caliper flex and make sliding calipers feel like fixed calipers.
SRF is THE best brake fluid! I've done a lot of trackdays and ringlaps with it and it's perfect. Just make sure to renew it a bit more often than normal brake fluid.
Yeah good point. Thanks for the feedback!
Anyone car to compare SRF to Motul or Ate Typ200?
@@ModMINI www.corvetteforum.com/forums/autocrossing-and-roadracing/2746522-which-one-motul-rbf600-or-ate-super-blue.html#post1576316722
General consensus is SRF is best around, if tracking routinely. But requires flushes more often for normal use. For street, ATe, Motul, should be fine.
You’re an Absolute Genius Sir!!!!!
The underside of this bmw looks nice.
I live in Sweden cars 3-4 old looks like this.
Salty roads winter times ruins the cars
I can relate being from Canada originally.
You never disappoint with these truely informative and professional videos!... don’t know whether your garage has enough height clearance, but as your channel grows ( which is a certainty) maybe you could install a lift... it would be a big upgrade and worthwhile for the extra flexibility of content you could feature on your channel.
Thanks! Yeah I have somewhat decent clearance. I'm thinking at the very least to get a set of quick jacks.
I bough5 a lift 1800. I use it for off road too Love it
As usual, a good description & video procedure. Well done!
Thanks!
Always qualified and quality content 👌
The 335 brakes are huge compared to the 325.
you should try liquid moly race fluid
Have you considered brass sleeves for the caliper pins? ECS tuning makes a really nice set for $200.00 (for all 4 wheels) & it comes with SS pins. I’d also recommend SS rotor screws as well; especially if you live in the rust belt or a NE part of the country.
Only downside to brass sleeves is that you have to re-grease the sleeves once a year. I use CRC silaramic brake grease & I still have to grease them 1x a year.
Yeah another commenter mentioned them, thanks for the info. I'll look in to them when upgrading the pads and rotors.
I think Amsoil racing brake fluid is the best along with their 5W 40 signature engine oil. Best you can buy for your BMW!!
Much appreciated. Thanks for sharing. I like all your presentations
Thanks for the specs and info. Now I don't have to do all that research!
Very good stuff. Thanks. Just a suggestion, it’s better to use gloves especially when you are working with brake fluid
Thanks for the e90 content 👍
Thanks for watching
Racing brake fluid is highly hygroscopic. It should be exchanged every 6 months or even more frequently in a sub-tropical climate like Houston.
Thanks for the info, makes sense as it must have a higher glycol percentage?
Been waiting for this video for a while , thanks for it waiting for the rotors and pads I wanna see what's your option and why
Yeah I'm on the lookout, I like akebono pads and would go for Zimmerman drilled rotors likely.
Very nice video good mod to do !
Very important DOT especifications, some you can not mix so a proper flush before is a must.
BimmerN53
Thanks
Nice Job! That software is pretty awesome, thanks for sharing! 👍
Np!
When using INPA to bleed: Do you just let the system self bleed per wheel, then go and tighten the nipple? There shouldn't be air in the lines after a bleed as long as the main reservoir is topped up?
Just seen the Filter for the inside of the Car ,where can i get these?
If you have a manual trans, would it be beneficial to bleed the clutch as well to get the racing brake fluid in there?
1:55 pull that headlights switch out it’s all the way in
Is there any way to contact you?
Fitting a bmw sunroof in a 1 series and would like to know if I can wire it up to the car as “factory” like you did with the manual conversion
Yes I’ve been waiting for this! This is the point of where I’m at with my build, my pure turbo N55 e92 is right around the 400whp mark on pump gas. Curious to see which aftermarket rotor you will decide on.👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I'm thinking of Zimmerman coated rotors which are drilled and Akebono pads.
@@VehicularDIY do they make them for the E9x?
I know they aren't available for the E82.
@@VehicularDIY Speaking on the E82. Some 135s come with factory Brembos with a M logo that are compatible with the E90 chassis. Those with the Zimmerman rotors and akebono pads would be my ideal setup👌🏼
What happened to your metal oil filter housing? Did it cause problems?
we want answers to how your old n54 spun a bearing w new bearings, did u install them wrong
I'll eventually get back to that. I don't think it was installation error, I think it was a form of oil starvation from a potentially bad oil pump but more digging is needed.
Like always Brilliant video 📹👌
Do you plan on changing your pre-LCI rims? I think that would complete your E90 transformation :)
I want to, if I can find a set of 193Ms.
@@VehicularDIY you need some 18” 167’s
@@matthewweisdorfer7757 wrong, the 193s look way better on this car
Have you ever considered the Brass Guide Pin Bushings that ECS Tuning sells? They seem like another good solution paired with the Stainless Lines and upgraded fluid.
I haven't, thanks I'll look into it when upgrading the pads and rotors.
Thanks for a good video. If I'm doing this old school & pumping brake pedal, is it the same if I have a friend to help?
Thanks. Yeah for the most part as no air would be introduced into the ABS pump itself.
Ive been following your videos since the steering wheel upgrades and after seeing your vid on the helix kit and more power, I've been curious for my car. Im currently on pure600 turbos on a custom tune for 91 Octane. Im still on the fence about the helix kit. Do you have any thoughts or suggestions you could share for some looking to make power in the 500whp range? I'm at 460 at the moment, but my fueling is maxed out. Thanks in advance.
Hey, have you already upgraded your lpfp? Are you hoping to mix in E85? How many miles are on your engine?
@@VehicularDIY my car had 203xxx miles. I tried an e40 mix tune with David Shoup and found out that my fueling is not capable. Im on a stage2 LPFP from fuelit and my HPFP is still pretty strong
Wait , what bled the brakes ? What pumped the fluid through ?
The ABS pump ?
I always used the Motive power bleeder on my M6 works great , ECS has a nice stainless steel exact fitment kit that looks nice
I have Banjo bolts on my front Calipers there Carbon Ceramics
Yeah the ABS pump did all the work.
@@VehicularDIY That’s amazing never knew this ! Thanks for sharing ! 🙏
What brake kit(pads/rotors) would you recommend for a Fbo e9x 335? Blank rotors or Drilled/slotted?
Does anyone know if you can bleed the breaks without the impa software?
Greetings, I switched to the Bosch ENV6 and the feel is still fantastic, even with high sollicitations (in addition to a high durability - it's been 2 years so far). But I am far from being a professional. Would you have any opinion/feedback on ENV6 ?
I don't have much experience with it but looks like it has decent specifications for the money.
@@VehicularDIY Thank you very much for your response, looking forward to your next videos . Cheers!
I'm a big fan of Motul RBF600.
It's highly rated, I wonder why the wet rating is so much lower.
That’s what I run in my 335i and my Impreza, is good stuff n highly recommended
Anyone have any experience to compare RBF600 to the SRF to Ate Typ200?
@@ModMINI I used to use ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid in My XK8 and X50i, but no longer sold in US. Now I just use RBF600 and change it yearly, but Castrol SRF looks good as well.
Want better feel of your engine, make proper cold air intake from bumper or underneath car. Sound of cone filter is just sound.
The problem with any racing brake fluid is the fact that is has a shorter service life. Example: Motul normal brake fluid is supposed to be changed every two years, racing one is every year.
Excellent upgrade!
Will ISTA-D provide the bleed functionality of INPA??
Thanks! Yes it works also.
Yes, and it’s in English !
@@matthewweisdorfer7757 Danke! 😎👍🏻
Out of curiosity how old was the fluid in the brakes before you flushed it with this race fluid?
About a year old.
Great video! Now that you've made the e90's brakes feel like the g80's, next you should make the g80 look like the e90 lol
Watching your videos over time, I know you've gone through multiple BMW software installs (INPA, etc) do you have VehicularDIY for installing the linked software?
Hey I haven't actually.
@@VehicularDIY it'd be awesome if you did one. I'm sure it's not as straightforward as it sounds given variables of operating systems, e.t.c. but even if you just showed us the steps you took to install the software it'd be very appreciated. After 30 minutes trying to figure out the linked with no progress and multiple internet searches I gave up
My next mod cheers 👍
I’ve tracked my 335 with just drilled/slotted rotors, pads, fluid, and lines, and honestly I really don’t have a need for a BBK at the moment. The only reason to upgrade is for better lookin brakes, which I also want 🤣
Yeah the stock brake rotor size is decent enough for most of us.
You aren't going fast enough. I cooked the brakes on my 135i.
@@ModMINI i cooked them toooo 😂
What brake upgrade do you recommend for a 2010 (n54) 335i e92 without breaking the bank (besides the brake fluid) ?
I'm looking into pads and rotors and will put up a follow up video. I like Akebono pads and zimmerman coated and drilled rotors. I'll do some research and let you guys know.
Just a fun question. Do you think you get the the boiling point temperature (under heavy brake usage) with "regular" brake fluid?
I would think so after a few hard braking events.
I have boiled the fluid on the track more than once. It would be hard to do it on the street; you would almost have to be trying to do it intentionally.
Good video, earned my sub👍🏼
Thanks!
You live in Texas so it wasn’t too bad of a job. But for a northern car with 12 years of salt and snow this job would be a lot more difficult.
Good point, even still it's tight up there with the two rubber lines on the drivers side of the car.
You’d have to take the subframe out of the rear to get the rear lines off. No question.
Wait, stainless steel ages too? 😅
At what humidity % do you change your brake fluid ? is 2-3% consider bad ?
Hmm I would say if it averages above 50% make sure you change it at 2 years.
and every 1 year if it's racing fluid.
It’s above 3% when you want to change the fluid. LOL at 50%.
Have you ever considered changing the wheel set up on your N54?
Yeah I would like to get a set of 193m wheels.
@@VehicularDIY Nice looking wheel, assume that would mean staying on 18"? What is your opinion on these versus your M3 competition setup, considering similar power on both, what differences have you noticed regarding the bigger wheels? (Apologies if this is apples & oranges, appreciate there are a lot more differences than just bigger wheels, but considering changing wheels on my e92 and wonder if 19" are just vanity, or will I get advantages?)
Beast
I flushed the brakes on my F31, but I didn't do it with software. As INPA doesn't support the F3x, can you do this in ISTA?
Yes you can.
The ISTA routine i used required a power bleeder and no pressing on/off of the brake pedal. Worked a treat though.
Amsoil has 580 degrees Fahrenheit wet and dry.
Can you do the F30 caliper retrofit?
I've heard that would require the master cylinder to be upgraded as well. I'll look into it.
F30 MP BBK F 370mm R 340mm with e90 m3 MS that's the correct set up
upgrade you oil filter cap from the plastic to a billet
You could have just pup the brake and get all of the air out?
Mostly as the abs pump would not have any air bubbles in it.
Did you notice a change in the feel of your clutch pedal after these upgrades/changes?
No difference in clutch feel.
Informative vid, but questionable title. (You mean BRAKE feel)
There's really no advantage to stainless steel brake lines. Performance brake fluid only really helps if you race or track the car. It's just brake fluid after all. I think it was the first time that you changed the brake fluid is why the sponginess went away.
I thought pad material technology has progressed to the point where off gassing was a thing of the past?
I think that's mostly true until the pads get red hot.
Hey man if you
Got a insta I got a question! Hit me up if you can!
Hey I just shot you a message on Instagram.
Meanwhile you have a 2006 325i and get any more power out of stock 🥸
Thißnis kind of misleading as that brake fluid is silicone based meaning it will not absorb water. I am not aware you can use silicone based fluid in cars not designed to run it.
Can you back up all the brake fluid/moisture technical nonsense comments you mentioned?
The technical nonsense is all legit. No fake information here. The one thing is stainless lines tend to help with slightly firmer pedal feel as the hoses expand less under pressure which results in a bit less pedal travel.
If you happen to get over speed in Mexico... :)
Hey, i need some serious help with my car. I been everywhere, i own a 2007 335i, and for the life of me can not figure out my RPM oscillation issue i been having nonstop. I can't afford a BMW diagnostics. I hope you can please help me with this. Maybe an email? Number? Something. I looked all over the BMW forums and everything. I'm sort of at a dead end. I would die if you messaged me back.
Are you referring to rough cold starts?
@@VehicularDIY no lol... Just check my channel and read the description if you have the time.
👍👍
Lol, I am still daily driving my 2007 E90 with cracked rubber
Chances are only the fronts are cracked so it would be a good idea to start there and they're really easy to change out.
The E90 has over 600 HP ?? Really ?
adawdawdawd