Testing horizontally 3D printed bolts without supports - how strong are these sliced screws?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- In one of my experiments I was testing horizontally and vertically 3D printed machine screws or bolts. Result was that horizontally printed bolt is much stronger, but in this case, we need to use supports and sometimes a die tool to clear the thread. Link to that video:
• 3D printing bolt and t...
There I got a lot of useful comments, like:
- Print the bolt in two halves and glue it or use with nut
- Cut the bolt from one side to have flat surface to start 3D printing
- Cut the screw from two sides, to have symmetrical load
In this video you can see these 3 new type of bolts but for reference I printed vertical and horizontal regular screw. M6, M8 and M10 bolts will be measured for torque, tensile and shear stress.
Contents:
0:00 introduction
2:52 design bolts in Fusion 360
5:14 slicing and 3D printing
6:45 analyzing new 3D printed bolts
10:40 tensile (pulling) test
13:10 results of tensile test
13:38 shear test
15:54 results of shear test
16:12 torque test
21:31 results of torque test
21:48 conclusions
Materials and methods:
Digital torque wrench (smallest 0.3-30 Nm)
www.banggood.com/custlink/mD3...
Digital crane scale 500kg:
www.banggood.com/custlink/vKG...
1t chain hoist (purchased in local store)
Most parts printed on Prusa MK3s 3D printer, some parts on Ender3 V2.
www.banggood.com/custlink/GGv...
www.prusa3d.com/original-prus...
Filament: Prusament PLA, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2 and 0.15mm layer height, 215°C temperature. Printed with max wall (perimeters or shell) and 100% infill.
STL for used test specimens can be downloaded from my website:
www.mytechfun.com/video/64
Support my work over Patreon:
/ mytechfun
Support my work over PayPal:
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Just an FYI for anyone printing threads from stl files they found online. In most slicing software, just move the bolt or thread down into the bed a little and it will automatically slice it so it prints with a flat spot on the bottom and you won't need to edit the stl file with another program first.
Oh, I forgot to mention this in video, thanks for reminding me.
@@MyTechFun No problem.
Another interesting use for 3d printers since you seem interested in bolts and nuts...is turnbuckles. Whenever you run into a situation where you need a turnbuckle...it's not as simple to find the size you need as bolts and nuts...3d printing can even be a better option than buying if you have a specific size and shape you need. Where with nuts and bolts buying is usually easier than 3d printing.
My use case for turnbuckles is this: I live in a smallish house with kids, lots of tools, and toys, etc. So a lot of things get put on pulleys and stored above head out of the way. I always use turnbuckles on the raising platforms to easily adjust the corners to level without adjusting the rope.
Anyway figured printing turnbuckles might be fun for you since you're into 3d printed threads.
Love the channel.
Occasions where I used 3D printed bolts:
1) For better visual appearance because the bolt will fit with the 3D model
2) To attach Christmas lights to my balcony which has M24 threads in the concrete. M24 bolts are very expensive and not commonly available
3) To integrate the thread directly into the model, e.g. for multi part models that I want to combine without glue so that they can be separated again.
The non-electrically conducitive properties might be helpful in some situations.
It won't rust or cause electrochemical rust in metallic parts
They can work as failsafe devices.
They won't scratch other surfaces in some aplications where the metal ones would
Very informative video. I used 3D Printed bolts on my toilet seat to fix it to WC. It originally came with plastic bolts but they broke during the Covid lockdowns. 3D printed bolts were a savior
The alternative methods for horizontal printing were quite inventive. Thanks for your effort on the detailed testing. Now we all know how the options hold up. Good work!
Add Radius in sharp corners, reduces stress/weak points. Don’t know how good this is on pla plastic lol, but it helps with metal 👍🏽
Excellent data and I have used the "one side flattened" approach for years now but now have the information to back-up this approach. I wanted to comment on "why print when you can buy" - our house is right on the windy North Pacific Ocean and even high quality plated fasteners do not last long. Marine rated stainless works, but these are VERY expensive plus hard to get. For most of my projects I can design them to use relatively large 3D printed fasteners in PETG and they have lasted with no problems with near constant salt spray. What has surprised me is that even some 4+ year old PLA parts cable clips), spray painted in Rustoleum to seal them, have also held-up with no problem.
Thanks for great info. Also it is good to know, that ASA is UV resistant (for outdoor usage)
@@MyTechFun Agree on ASA - I have made parts to hold greenhouse garden tubing together from ASA - the PLA parts at first deformed in the greenhouse heat - and the ASA held-up great to the heat, UV, and moisture.
I use 3D printed bolts when I need a large surface of contact for uniform pressure, and hence purchasing a big chunky metalic bolt would be too overkill.
However, bear in mind creep in PLA is real. If you leave something tightened for long periods of time, there is a chance the bolt would fail upon untightening... that is why your video is very interesting. From now and on I will only print my bolts horizontally!
Short of holding down a toilet seat I can't think of a practical application for an FDM printed bolt in my life at the moment, but I absolutely do enjoy and appreciate your well thought out and methodical testing processes.
Perfect for designing prototypes before contracting a machine shop or manufacturer to make the item en mass?
PS, toilet bolts are actually a great idea. They aren't that cheap, and it could save a trip to the hardware store.
Awesome testing. I love small youtubers with unsponsored and great content like yours. Keep up the awesome work!
I really like those split bolts
Pla 3d printed Bolts are produced with less energy and co2 emissions. They are also cheaper to print than to buy and can be used to extend structures beyond the building size limit of a given 3d printer. I will use them everywhere where human life is not directly depending on their reliability.
I’m 3D printing a desk vice and someone suggested printing the bolts horizontally. After watching your video I am more confident that they will hold up, thank you
Thank you, very helpful for an up-and-coming prototype in a voluntary project.
Definitely a "why" would be matching a 3-d printed project, as well as weight savings, especially if just for basic assembly and no load-bearing or cyclic stresses. (Mounting a lens cover onto a light, etc, versus mounting a bike light head onto a mounting clamp where metal might be a better idea).
Very informative, thanks for taking the time to do this
I appreciate the work you put in. Great video!
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Very interesting results
Great "demostrated" information. Thanks a lot, I learned a lot.
I've been waiting for this video!
I've been printing bolts this way forever, but have never seen them actually tested.
Great work, thanks.
Thanks for the video. Really useful content!
Very informative video. I haven't currently used any 3D printed bolts, but your great explanation inspires me to give it a try. I watched your previous video a few months ago and this is a great addition. Keep up the great work and I look forward to watching your future videos!
And I've found another channel which makes me wish I had a 3D printer.
"Hey honey, watch this!"
"Why in the world would I want to watch that?"
"Because it's informative and useful information!"
"Useful to whom, pray tell?"
"To me?"
"Why. You don't even have a 3D printer!"
"Our son does."
"Then forward it to him. I'm sure he'll love it. Now get back to work. I'm pretty sure you aren't paid to watch TH-cam videos."
"I'm taking a break"
"Another one? How many breaks do you need?"
And now you see how my day goes... Or at least you know how my breaks go. And yes, I get a few every day.
I didn't tell her I just subscribed :-)
I live by, "what she doesn't know won't hurt me. Probably."
Thank you mister for your testing , i was just struggling with this particular problem :)
This video is perfect, exactly what I needed. Thank you!!
Thank you! Great video and very informative, I appreciate your hard work.
Thank you for your tests and I'm already subscribed! :). And the use depends on the assembly you need to use them :)
I don't have any use for this knowledge as I haven't built anything that needs to support weight yet, but I love watching these videos to learn, and watching the testing process.
I have never 3d printed bolts but thanks to your video I will start.
Great video. Thank you!
Awesome, thanks again.
I live far away from any store where I could buy a bolt exactly the size I need. I can order, but it will take days. So that is the reason I would print a bolt instead of buying a metallic one.
This is also the reason I bought a 3d printer in the first place. So that I can make the stuff at home.
Great video as always
Interesting subject
Thanks for sharing👍😀
This is really awesome, thanks so much for doing some science to get hard numbers! I use 3D printed bolts for prototyping things when I don't have the proper size bolts and don't want to wait to get some. I plan to use them (fairly big ones - M15-20ish) to make a thread board as well.
great video, very help full for my design work with 3d printers. threads are very useful for 3d printing. i use it for adjustment, or not loaded parts.
I made a long M8 thread on a filament spool holder I designed, and used the technique of putting a flat to the minor diameter as shown. In my case, I printed the "head" (which was actually slotted fitting) full height and used support on the flat on the thread, which was very easy to remove cleanly because it was supporting a completely flat surface, rather than a thread. I was able to use the thread with very little cleanup.
Thanks for doing these tests, they are very interesting and I'm impressed by your approach to the testing.
I work in a maker space, and so for my use case it's honestly easier and more convenient to just 3d print bolts instead of making a run to the hardware store. I keep pre-cut bolt .stl files for each size in a folder on my maker space's Teams so we can easily access and print them whenever needed.
Thak you, very useful information
The side sliced bolt is a good solution for smaller threads.
For larger threads, you could try printing a 3d nut too.
Turning the 3d nut against the 3d bolt in small stages helps grind away any left over support material. Only go in small stages, and back-off as they tighten, or the threads will lock up against each other.
Cool topic. Helps newbies like me better understand material and production methods.
I'm struggling to print some nuts and bolts right now because the supports damage the threads. Thank you for the tip. A small slice down the side will make all of this easier, I think.
I've subscribed! I adore your perfectionism and you're saving me the time and effort of doing the same sorts of tests. I'm just getting into 3D printing myself having chosen over a decade ago to allow others to mature the technology. I spent most of my career on the bleeding edge of technology and I didn't fancy doing the same with my hobbies as it would all be too similar. Where do I envisage using 3D printed nuts and bolts? Pre-integrated into parts, and especially for marine / outdoor environments. It also seems to me that handling of parts could be improved by using a few larger part-filled lightweight 3D-printed components rather than many tiny and fiddly steel or alloy nuts and bolts.
Very nice, very informative.
Don't turn off ads though
Wow! Very nice.
Thanks for this test. Very interesting! To your question: I use 3D printed bolts when I need a special form of the bolt head (very flat, to be used without a tool,…) or when I need a special length/color or when it’s weekend and I can’t buy the item I need…
When creating the bolt with both sides cut instead of using press pull, you can use the XZ plane (that you used to make the head) to make a sketch to cut the thread and then mirror it over XY plane and then press pull the head to match so now you have most of the head left.
Great video!
Usually use printed bolts if I am printing a downloaded design that includes them. In my own designs I will usually use off the shelf fasteners. In this case I can work the design around fasteners that I have access to.
FANTASTIC. I've been struggling to get 3D printed threads to fit using the default settings in Fusion360, the gap between the M/F threads seems to be too tight. Also, I was having significant problems getting the bolts started as well. Your push/pull tip on the threads as well as the 45deg revolve chamfer are the solutions to my problems. So simple, I didn't even think of that. Thanks so much for your information!
The threads in Fusion 360 are for metal parts. You can use trapezoidal or even custom-shape threads for plastic.
Great video
superb
Örülök, hogy úgy nézhettem meg a videót, hogy nincs egy darab dislike sem. Szuper és érdekes videókat készítesz. Így tovább! I'm glad, that not a single dislike in this video yet. Keep up the good content quality!
Thanks. Köszi. Dislike csak idő kérdése. Egyébként, dislike növekedése egy jó jel, hogy a videó kezd ajánlva lenni nem feliratkozott nézőknek is.
Something I might try would be to print the core and thread of the bolt horizontally, with a separate print for the head, made top or bottom-side up. A tapered square joint between them would be glued (or bonded via solvent) together to make them one piece. This takes advantage of the directional strengths for each section and doesn't lose any of the mating surface for the wrench. Not sure how much advantage it would offer for the extra effort, though.
1. If the print is something that attaches via bolt and doesn't require that much strength, but I don't want to buy a pack of 100 metal bolts when I only need 1.
2. Normal bolt-requiring things but with non-standard bolts; clamps, to tighten adjustable angles, etc.
Id be interested in seeing an adapter between your pullies to determine which thickness of 3d material paired with these bolts will survive the best. That way we can decide on the best thickness to print the walls of devices we want to fasten with 3d printed bolts to get the best results!
For thermal or electrical insulation of the casing. Since the plastic has a much lower thermal and electrical conductivity, another real use is, for example, the sheathing of an antenna or radar. as there will be no electrical induction and the screws will not heat up or make noise on the radar. Alternatively, screwing on fragile materials such as porcelain glass, etc. and the last option that comes to my mind is the use in a highly corrosive environment.
To illustrate that radar, this is a radar where the antennas are located behind that bright part where the casing is made of fiberglass and is bolted with plastic screws. PS: it is a tower on the border of the Czech Republic and Germany, a remnant of the communist era.
lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/3mteKH4Nflcfa1nFuboSFlvtFIPfia7Sy8dprbPZubo2HZe18mj00nCjS25xCyo0PM8vCtaYefQrdcqmMCwH3IN0MXjOhEywJBc48OYwbzmXo0oY7CrwhJOR8uJ91Y1Jl06_Ivb0d0itGZHynQ
Maybe the two halves of the split nut could be bond using acetone, not sure it will improve resistance much but it might at least make them easier to use. Great video, very comprehensive.
That would work with ABS, but that's again just an additional step. Then better use supports
Bonding also works somehow with PLA (though "polishing" doesn't)
th-cam.com/video/VZUfq0yrtv4/w-d-xo.html&t=211
I agree it's an additional step though it's a quick one.
It's even very quick, I tried it with Standard PLA and it actually sticks almost instantly and I could not take the pieces apart after barely 2 minutes.
I appreciate your dedication to going wherever the science leads you and applying scientific method. (And showing the design and your sense of humor). Keep it up!
Side question: will you be looking at Sunlu's S4 dryer?
Yes, only they send the first 20 pics to more popular TH-camrs. I have to wait..
@@MyTechFun that's too bag that you're not that high up their tracking yet, but you are one of my favorites. I have to admit I already pre-ordered mine before your test, even with your thorough tests, it seemed good enough to try. Even if only as a desiccant dryer 😂 (I have the orange stuff and my regular oven doesn't go low enough).
Great show of detail. I have a project I need to do and will be using your work as inspiration: slot car guide flags. If you have links to the tools you used for measurements I'd use those before buying direct.
Links added to description of video. Some tools I bought in local store, no link there.
I use 3D printed internal threads (nuts effectively). Great series btw.
Same here. How do you determine which size of threads and pitch to use?
I've made this bolt together soccer ball: th-cam.com/video/ieFDEl05r7s/w-d-xo.html
I just guessed at my thread and pitch size. I'm interested in figuring out a method of determining optimal size.
@@ddegn a couple of choices:
1. Years of engineering school and practice. (Very expensive.)
2. Hire an engineer. (Still expensive for most of us.)
3. Weeks to months to years of trial-and-error testing. (Usually unintentionally very expensive while trying to be cheap, but Thomas Edison seemed to like this method, and was quite stubborn about it. Look into Edison versus Westinghouse & Tesla in regards to DC or AC current, for more info.)
4. Look at a similar product and copy or modify as you see fit. As long as you're not selling the product, or at least not making an obvious copy, duplication of screw types won't get you in any legal trouble. Proprietary heads and drivers, on the other hand, are another story.
Thank you for the great video. Very thorough. Please explain why you cut the halved bolts in Fusion 360 rather than in Prusa Slic3r.
Yes, I could mention it in video. In slicer it is simplier. But I tried to make universal solution, not every slicer have this option for cuting.
Ah, ok. I was trying to figure out what I missed! Thanks again. I never would have thought a halved bolt would do so well, or that a vertically printed bolt would be so much weaker.
I’m going to try carbon fiber nylon 3D printed bolts horizontally no supports / thin slice for my hydrofoil, because steel bolts will rust in the sea water.
I'm considering seriously making a "Yet ANOTHER machine Vise by TheGoofy" in Thingiverse. I would like to know what's the advantage of using PLA bolts and vises, and if it would be enough to hold pieces in place for drilling , sanding, painting etc. Thank you very much and thanks for the video.
For the 2-halves version, I'm super curious to know if gluing the two halves together will increase the strength at all. Also, curious if the type of glue matters (ie: CA, acrylic cement, contact cement, etc).
I didn't want to glue it, it's just another additional process. If gluing, then rather print with supports and use a die tool.
@@MyTechFun What about a dovetail, or similar slide-fit join? It seemed like the 2-halves version had the best data, might be interesting to iterate further with it.
Hello can you test to heat a little bit a nut and screw it to seal the layers. And maybe get a strong screws?! Could be good?
How about testing the two halves glued together with superglue/epoxy?
My guess is that it would be the strongest.
Probably yes, but keep it simple. In most cases I don't want to mess with Epoxy, too messy
There are many uses for 3D printed bolts in your overall project. If you are designing from scratch, you can customize the bolt size and length.
Good video, but these results should only apply to materials which don't have isotropic tensile strength, such as the PLA used here. So, if you did this same test, but printed the bolts with something like PCTG, then the orientation of the prints shouldn't matter, they should all be about the same strength. You can verify this by checking the material properties in all directions to see if there are any differences or if they are all roughly the same. That is the best way to know how to orient certain parts for printing.
Currently I am testing PCTG and it is much stronger in X or Y direction. Weak on layer adhesion. Video in few days
@@MyTechFun That's interesting because that's not what Vision Miner said (though they used Essentium PCTG, not sure which brand you have). I plan on trying it out sometime in the future myself.
I don't normally print stand alone bolts, but I use them inside objects to join two parts, or I print them separately for things like your two parts sphere.
BUT now, just for teh lulz, I'm printing M3 bolts thanks to the variable layer height, and it works! =)
Well: actually I'll use them to join other 3D printed parts.
M3 bolts? I wanted to print them too, without success with 0.4mm nozzle
@@MyTechFun Yes: with 0.4mm nozzle and 0.07mm layer height in vertical position.
One already broke while screwing it inside an M3.5 plastic thread, so they are not quite strong, but to join two pieces maybe it's enough.
I'm very curious about 3D printed bolts when used with 3D printed threads.
I made a 3D printed soccer ball and used M5 bolts to hold the pieces together. Here's an unlisted video: th-cam.com/video/ieFDEl05r7s/w-d-xo.html
I want to make a larger ball using the same technique. I'm thinking of using M10 bolts but with coarse threads. I purchased a tap and die set for M10 x 1.5mm threads. I'm hoping the coarser threads work better with 3D printed parts.
I've love to hear your opinion on what sorts of threads to use to join 3D printed parts together.
Have you tried nylon carbon fiber filament. That would be interesting.
Nylon? Not yet with bolts. But soon I will test all Polymaker nylons..
He says not to subscribe.
*me subscribes anyway*
I don't remember...have you tried printing them at 45° with minimal (i.e. only for the head, not the threads) support?
Yes, tried. Link to that test is in description
@@MyTechFun Thanks
compare the result with an injection mold screw of the same type of plastic
Are you spying me? Exactly this test is in progress ;-)
@@MyTechFun you are the best 😍
I think it would be an interesting test if you can print these bolts with 100% walls instead of infill, as walls provide a lot of strength of a print.
It is printed with max walls (perimeters, shell)
When you're a poor student with access to 3D printers