Does the belay device matter?, yes it does for various reasons but so does the rope and the placed gear you are falling onto but for me what is more important is the belayers body position when belaying and the belayers body dynamics when braking a fall. Thank you for taking the time to make your content I appreciate it.
True that, I rather give a hard catch then to not catch at all. It happen to me once where my brake hand got knocked off the rope, or I let go after getting knocked, and luckily the grigri catch. Since then I just decided that I would go with an assisted braking device/mode over a non assisted unless I really have too
Yes, i think if it's possible to use assisted braking why wouldn't you kind of thing. Ok with twin ropes it might not be possible but there is the edelrid gigajul or something to consider. I was dropped from 10 metres on to the gym floor because my belayer lost the brake strand. He slowed me just enough at the cost of his skin on his hands by grabbing the climbers side but of course it was still a very hard landing and trip to the hospital to get checked over.
My first rule, don't overthink things and follow your gut... The system MUST be closed. Been on scene when the billayers switched who was going to lower. So they were switching who had the harness as the climber proceeded to be "lowered". Very tragic.
Petzle has some relevant research on their website, I believe. With the same technique they found that the Grigri had a 33% higher force than a reverso.
Re thin ropes - Mammut advertises 7.7kN Impact Force for Crag Classic 9.5. For Alpine Sender 8.7 they advertise "7.8 / 5.8 / 9.3 kN". I wonder which of the 3 numbers is the "single" (80kg) rating.
Given the numbers, it is most likely single - double - twin, as doubles are the same but with 50kg and twin uses two strands on 80kg giving it a harder catch
Does a soft catch matter in a normal sport climbing scenario? Giving too little slack can cause injuries because it can make your climber slam into the wall right under the last quickdraw. But with modern ropes, can you really give a catch which is hard enough to cause injuries to the pelvis, spine etc or damage equipment? Especially when the climber is a lighter person to begin with. In my opinion the most important thing by far is that you prevent a ground fall under all circumstances. Which means always obeying the brake hand rule, not standing too far away from the wall etc.
I did a couple of controlled whippers in gym scenario in a row. Simply intentionally fell down with the last quickdraw right below my feet. This is obviously terrifying experience, but I also noticed additional lower back pain the next day. So no actual permanent injury, but my spine did feel those kilonewtons rapidly pulling my belay loop
i like this guy
IKR, his beard and hair is magnificent
Does the belay device matter?, yes it does for various reasons but so does the rope and the placed gear you are falling onto but for me what is more important is the belayers body position when belaying and the belayers body dynamics when braking a fall. Thank you for taking the time to make your content I appreciate it.
True that, I rather give a hard catch then to not catch at all. It happen to me once where my brake hand got knocked off the rope, or I let go after getting knocked, and luckily the grigri catch. Since then I just decided that I would go with an assisted braking device/mode over a non assisted unless I really have too
Yes, i think if it's possible to use assisted braking why wouldn't you kind of thing. Ok with twin ropes it might not be possible but there is the edelrid gigajul or something to consider.
I was dropped from 10 metres on to the gym floor because my belayer lost the brake strand. He slowed me just enough at the cost of his skin on his hands by grabbing the climbers side but of course it was still a very hard landing and trip to the hospital to get checked over.
My first rule, don't overthink things and follow your gut... The system MUST be closed. Been on scene when the billayers switched who was going to lower. So they were switching who had the harness as the climber proceeded to be "lowered". Very tragic.
Petzle has some relevant research on their website, I believe. With the same technique they found that the Grigri had a 33% higher force than a reverso.
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't think the GriGri was rated for trad? I thought Petzl's own lit showed up to x2 kn more from a GriGri verses an ATC.
Re thin ropes - Mammut advertises 7.7kN Impact Force for Crag Classic 9.5. For Alpine Sender 8.7 they advertise "7.8 / 5.8 / 9.3 kN". I wonder which of the 3 numbers is the "single" (80kg) rating.
Given the numbers, it is most likely single - double - twin, as doubles are the same but with 50kg and twin uses two strands on 80kg giving it a harder catch
So apples-to-apples is 7.7kN for the fat rope and 7.8kN for the thin ?
Does a soft catch matter in a normal sport climbing scenario? Giving too little slack can cause injuries because it can make your climber slam into the wall right under the last quickdraw. But with modern ropes, can you really give a catch which is hard enough to cause injuries to the pelvis, spine etc or damage equipment? Especially when the climber is a lighter person to begin with. In my opinion the most important thing by far is that you prevent a ground fall under all circumstances. Which means always obeying the brake hand rule, not standing too far away from the wall etc.
I did a couple of controlled whippers in gym scenario in a row. Simply intentionally fell down with the last quickdraw right below my feet. This is obviously terrifying experience, but I also noticed additional lower back pain the next day. So no actual permanent injury, but my spine did feel those kilonewtons rapidly pulling my belay loop