@Houseworksaws That may be another trial/error that I can try. I've got a mill, so the cross slide may make it even easier than a drill press. A right angle bracket to attach to the table may be the ticket! The bolts and mounting holes will not be in the way for mounting the cylinder. Good stuff; thanks. I love this stuff too; even when a fellow thinks he has an idea that no one else has shown, he uncovers his own naivety because most stuff has been done even if you think you thought it up all by yourself... so did someone else. Even when you think outside the box, you usually have company! and THAT, sir, is why people like you and I are here!! Thanks!!
@danielsmith8659 That type is one of the simplest to do; the thin metal cover is held on with the two nuts; under that, I cut a hole big enough to get the baffle out and then weld a pipe in the tin cover; it makes a fair difference (in case you can find someone around with a welder or a torch to braze it; brazing works well, too). Thanks for joining-in down here!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 I modded my cover On my 290. I just trimmed back the opening on the cover more , and cut additional holes on the inside behind , one in the baffle , didn’t go to crazy on the baffle . I just wish I could braze or weld to make a cool cover .
@danielsmith8659 I don't know your environment, but I assume that since you own a saw, that you don't live in a highrise apt in a big city to where you are not allowed to attempt to weld or braze and whatnot? (not being a smart butt, but some people who are here may live in a place where they would be prohibited from welding or having an open heat source). I will say that welding thin metal is a "next step" in learning to weld; by that, I mean don't try to learn on a rust piece of thin metal. For less than $75 I think a cheap welder can be bought; it may be something to consider? If you're like me, I enjoy learning and self-teaching (and unlike 40 years ago, we now have YT to help teach SO MANY things); welding, even ugly ol nasty looking welds in the beginning, is a skill that will save most people way more than it costs. Even with inflation, you can buy a new welder cheaper now than I could buy a used one 40 years ago. I would encourage you to give it a whirl if taking a couple hundred bucks out of the family budget is not a irresponsible move!!
Like to see both hp and tq at first. But it's nice to see the hp separate later to show really how different it is... Ps: now you got me thinking I'm going to have to adjust squish band on clam shells. But 8 need more tools first lol
@happy8637 Thanks for the feedback on the dyno charts; that's where I'm leaning (just as you mentioned), show both and then just HP to show a bigger/easier to see margin. Heck, @Archer_82 did his with a socket and by-hand and I don't even think HE used a hatchet!!! 😂😉 Clamshells are a bugger, but they're a cheap buy-in for hacks like me; I've actually bought them for their weight at the scrapyard!
Thanks for the reminder, I need a haircut. All this time I've been working my chain to get it to cut straight and now you tell me it's my intake. Guess I'll have get one of those porting axes and start hogging. No way i could get those bearing pockets round enough to seal by hand. You've got the touch.
@Kevin.L_ Kevin, a haircut is an awful big decision... just do 1/2 and make sure you like it first!! 😂 Oh yeah, people spend lots of time on fixin' their bars, chain teeth and rakers only to find out there was an intake issue! I have a checklist before building saws; nothing worse than building a saw for a guy to find out he's left handed!!! The bearing pockets are actually fairly forgiving; they only touch on three points from the factory; the seal pockets are even easier... they are rubber coated and can take on plenty of sealer if necessary... I think these would have been fine without sealer, but they always get a smear anyway. The wedge banger is the key to getting everything smooth though!!
@Kevin.L_ They are forgiving in the aspect that they merely hold the outer race of a roller bearing; if it's not a tolerable fit, a high spot in a pocket can distort the outer race some and make the bearing tight (hard to spin). BUT, the outer race has plenty of its own structure to withstand some hatchet-work. I've had a saw out for about 3 years with the bottom bearing support (where the transfer divider meets the bearing) completely gone; I ground it out all the way to the point that the rings come down in its stroke. Dang thing was a bugger to get together though because I had to use a pick to get the ring over the hump waaay up inside of there... won't do THAT again... probably.
@z1berzerker Actually, Ol "Sim" (that's what Simo let us friends of his call him) preferred my reloads for precise work!! (first liar ain't got a chance 😉🤣) Can't remember... you ain't from Up Nort with ol Sven, Ole, and Lena are ya?
@z1berzerker Sounds like everyone is in agreement; Wasn't sure if JUST the hp chart would show small gains better or not as the uppy-downy part of the graph only has to range from 3-5ih instead of 1-5 when it includes torque; it made the HP curve more pronounced leaving it out. It's actually easier to use the torque chart because I actually remove it to do the HP-only chart. Sometimes, you run something up the flag pole and people salute; other times, not-so-much. If there's one thing for sure; I do try different things and ain't afraid to be a loser!! Thanks for the input... y'all might not ALWAYS get your way, but at-least, I will know who I am making mad. 😉🤣🤣😝😝😝
@@z1berzerkercurious just how many of us here are left handed now, it may explain a lot. I’d like to know where he gets the left handed saw chassis for the side by side videos, sure could use one of those! 🤣
@TheJohnDeereGuy I have done it on a mandrel and @Archer_82 has done it by-hand with a socket; both successfully. He is editing his series on his channel and has a vid or two of the preliminary steps and saw running (if I recall correctly) at the time of this. Being a tractor puller, you know that some mechanical things can be very forgiving... (I welded on the crankshaft of my antique pulling tractor with a MIG welder and it was a consistent winner for the 5 seasons I pulled it.) The bearing pockets merely support the roller bearing outer race, and therefore can stand minor imperfections. Having the first one out of the way, I think I can improve upon the process and ease of the modification!! Thanks for being here; hope your tractor is coming along with no more hiccups!!
It’s great to see this all coming together. Yes sir, you absolutely sparked the conversation/idea about someone with some patience could move the pockets, I did it literally by hand, and your way looks great, and repeatable. Happy you got this video together, I don’t wear quite as many hats as you (😂), and I haven’t found my video editor hat lately (58gb just for that saw) Now that you have cut the pockets, good luck ever doing a clamshell again with out it, you sure made a lot more work going forward, they run so much better like this, amazing results on the dyno, and it’s not even completely broken in yet. The 025 now with about 4 tanks of fuel through it is hands down stronger than my 021. The 021 has the squish adjusted, but the 025, cut the squish band to take the exhaust roof from 94 down to 98 along with the tighter squish. In all, great tool, video, idea collaboration, and power results! Thanks for taking the time to share.
@Archer_82 Thank you Sir; I had sent you a couple of emails and sure hoped I didn't step on any toes. I don't know that I'd want to do this for other peoples' saws too much in the future with the time involved, but for-sure on my saws from now on!! I wish this was staying as my saw! Oh well, they sell $37 kits all day long, I guess!! I'm going to ask for the saw back after break-in to do a dyno test again... It'll probably be back anyway with a broken starter rope or something else in need of fixing. I've got a little MS170 that will need this treatment too... it's worthless as it is. I will have to watch moving stuff too far as I'm not sure I can get my angled tool into the transfers. It probably doesn't even have enough power at this time to even spin the dyno up very far. Man, I love this stuff!! Thank you, sir!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1running on the dyno again after 5-10 tanks or whatever it turns out to be is a great idea! Show us with measured numbers what, if any change there is after “break in” are we over thinking it, or is there a measurable difference. No toes stepped on, I’m not here for ego, just to learn, maybe share a few things, we all have so many different experiences and ideas, cool things happen when they come together in a positive way. They do sell kits, that’s an idea there.. pre build a few motors that can be bolted in as needed, maybe the clamshell has its advantages. For the transfers/ angle tool. Well, not having an angle tool, I have used the $14ish set of double cuts from “the Jungle” as you call it, that set has a few cutters with a top cutting face, so you can straight plunge cut with just a straight rotary tool like a Dremel, with a rather firm mount and grip, bc it does try to walk.
@Archer_82 So much stuff crammed into my videos so far, but there was a measurable difference on the 026 between build and 2-3 tanks; it made a noticeable difference. You're reading my mind on the buying a complete engine or two (only another $20 or so; a person could use the AM crank for mockup/build and then use the OEM crank when it's time to use it. As far as Stihl goes, a 170, a 250, and a 390 kit would about have it all overed for clamshells. I've used the straight cutters as well and had OK success; I wasn't able to get the angle I wanted on the xfers, but got a little angle before the handle of the tool hit the opposing wall. Better have a hold on it like you're trying to choke out a rattle moccasin 🐍 though!!! Archer, I think you and I have opened a can of worms here!!!
@jasentonguepowersaws4206 👍👍 Thanks for the input; it sure isn't a problem to include the ft/lb chart... actually, I have to spend time removing it to only show HP; wasn't sure if, on multiple (3-5) comparisons, if it cluttered it up too much? Also, wasn't sure if it make minor HP differences easier to see as the range of the chart can be shortened? Thanks again for the input/suggestions!!! Hope you have a dandy day!!
@jasentonguepowersaws4206 I know, right??!! I'm reluctant to do much machine work unless absolutely needed (at this point of the channel) as I want it to be inclusive to people who may only own a knockoff dremel or the such. Clamshells are another story... it's almost a necessity!!! I have a little MS170 that needs the same work... well, actually, if it wasn't given to me, I wouldn't even own one. Cutting the chamber and setting squish to scary levels may make this a fun little saw for trimming blackberry briars, rhubarb, and asparagus. 😉
@JyveKilla Thanks so much for the input; I dang well mean it too!!! I can't hear well, so it's hard for me to tell if the audio is adequate. I did buy an external lapel mic, but it didn't work well and will not work with my current camera; I am definitely considering a different camera with which a mic can be paired; it would work well when doing sawmilling and general work which causes me to move nearer/farther from the camera. I really appreciate the feedback!! Previously, in editing software, I multiplied the audio between 2x-10x (depending), but failed/forgot to do it this time and probably others. I run a go-pro style camera and I think there's one that works well with a mic, but it's a few hundred bones....soon, I hope.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 have a look at the Rode wireless ME. They're under $200 for 2 here in Australia which is a shade over $120 American. They can connect to Apple, USB or 3.5mm mic jacks so they're pretty universal. There's 2 wireless mics and the base unit is also a mic. I'm pretty sure you can connect the mic to the USB port on your GoPro too.
@JyveKilla Will definitely have a look at the Rode; I'm running a knock-off (Akaso V50) but it does have a usb; not sure if they are compatible with mics though; something make me think you have to use THEIR proprietary mic and it's NOT wireless. Thinking DJI before farming season where recording is even harder/worse with equipment noises. Will sure look into the Rode; thanks for the pointer!!
@wildridge72 Battery powered and from the "return" bin that had been used to trench the dirt for an underground dog fence?? 😂😉 Good to hear from ya; thought you had crawled into a hole and pulled it in after ya!!
With all the Thinking you must have to do in the figures. You come up with. I can understand why half 28:2628:26 Your head would be getting so hot and have to cool it off. Where'd your song go I thought it would have been a hit by now.😅😅😅
@garyletizio3174 Weeeelllll, ACTUALLY, it wasn't a haircut at all... my head started swelling but my hair didn't move and it nearly swelled out past my hair!!! My ol' neck gets awful tired lugging this ol' heavy brain around!! 🤓😏🤣🤣 The ol' song was quite a while back and doesn't get much play time by itself.... I think it's a conspiracy by Nashville to keep a good man down!!! 😉🙄
That's just the bee's knees!!! You are a fart smeller. 😂 I use a exhaust pipe expander to cut my base. Takes some getting set up but it works. Clamp shells scare me. They might bite you. That's a cool little mandrel you have. I did some chamber cutting mandrels with my fancy used harbor freight lathe. It's slightly modified but gets the job done. Love what your doing. Teaching me how to not be afraid of going further with clamshell setups. Had my old 039 out other day man it's a great saw with a lot of character. Custom rusted out muffler mod helped it at bunch. Love bucking with it. Love the hair that's great stuff. This just tickles me pink to see you getting after it. Doings good things love the content!! Hopefully I'll get some more things out soon. The farm has other ideas. Dozers, brushing and sewing grass has me covered up at the moment. Still tuning in to see one of the most entertaining and informative channels on the tube!!
@eze.Morning_Wood_Farms Thanks! Tell Black Dog that I said "Hey"; I guess, as cheap as I am/can be most of the time, I don't mind potentially ruining a $37 piston cyl kit in an attempt to learn or try something. I hardly ever mess with a OEM cylinder as I'm just a hack and hate to mess up something of that value (my 026 OEM is still unmodified... I go straight to the junk stuff to play around). Sounds like your 039 has the same muffler mod as dad's 036 the "ol' iron-oxide barn upgrade". Rust takes a little longer, but does a good job!! 😉 I seen @kennytheguitarfanatic054 using an exhaust mandrel (and sockets) as mandrels on his mini lathe too. @Archer_82 did his bearing pockets by hand and is coming out with a series too. I get the farm stuff; I have a hay mower to tear down that's in need of seals soon. My time (for chainsaws) will ebb a little as farming season/time hits here, too. Be careful and safe my friend!!
Son of a gun Hay Chaff and Saw Dust, you can do one heck of a job with a hose clamp, piece of PVC, chunk a sand paper, a strip of electrical tape and a hatchet modifying them Sthil chainsaws… making um run almost as good as a Husqvarna. I think the real secret to getting that ole Sthil to running so good was putting the Husqvarna name plaque on, made that ole Stihl strut its stuff like an ole bantam roster. Just kidding, after ya told me the story about how the Great Shara Forest was cut I’ve been painting the bottom half of my Husky’s with white paint. I was a wondering, did ya piss-off your barber? (Hope that don’t get me in trouble with TH-cam, already have one strike against me for writing BS about a particular video a year ago in long hand) I see from one of your hats you was a wearing you must have been through our battle born state at least once. Did ya know Nevada hosts not only the oldest but also the second oldest profession… sheep herding. If it wasn’t for humor we’d all be like Miz Ratchet in One Flew Over The Cuckoo Cuckoo’s Nest. I enjoy your humor even when ya talk beyond my comprehension about portin a saw. Reminds me maybe Ole Jim, that lives down the road a piece, has bottled his last falls squeezin’s so we can work on our port intake. Keep um rolling, Ole Mountain Man
@georgefernandes3996 Getting by with nothin' was a way of life for us; started out with nothin' and have most of it left!! I remember growing up, mom always tried to get us something useful (clothes) and something to play with (a toy of some sort); one year, I only got a pair of dungarees and asked about something to play with... she told me she cut a hole in the pocket to cover THAT. I got to jabbering too much to my barber and he recognized me from last time... demanded immediate payment right then and there... he was only half done!! Glad Ol Jim waited a spell to bottle the stuff; heard tell of making a heck of a mess if bottled too early; I prefer my "rendered" a bit JUST to get rid ANY possibility of a bubble... them dang bubbles can hurt a feller!! Thanks Ole Mountain Man!! PS Try to stay out of Dutch with the sensors!!
@JyveKilla That was my consideration also; being that HP is torque x RPM, the torque curve is inherently incorporated into the HP curve; seem like the majority prefer the torque curve included; I may do both ways when there are minor gains as I can change the "Y" parameters to exaggerate the the minor differences and make them easier to see. I understand that most people are more familiar with both charts; make no difference to me as I can just look at the numbers without the chart and see what I need to see. Wasn't sure what most liked/preferred. I really appreciate the feedback on this too!!
I had a buddy who did it with a homemade fly cutter in a drill press. Where there’s a will there’s a way. Love this stuff
@Houseworksaws That may be another trial/error that I can try. I've got a mill, so the cross slide may make it even easier than a drill press. A right angle bracket to attach to the table may be the ticket! The bolts and mounting holes will not be in the way for mounting the cylinder. Good stuff; thanks. I love this stuff too; even when a fellow thinks he has an idea that no one else has shown, he uncovers his own naivety because most stuff has been done even if you think you thought it up all by yourself... so did someone else. Even when you think outside the box, you usually have company! and THAT, sir, is why people like you and I are here!! Thanks!!
Love that muffler cover . Wish I had one or could weld .
@danielsmith8659 That type is one of the simplest to do; the thin metal cover is held on with the two nuts; under that, I cut a hole big enough to get the baffle out and then weld a pipe in the tin cover; it makes a fair difference (in case you can find someone around with a welder or a torch to braze it; brazing works well, too). Thanks for joining-in down here!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 I modded my cover On my 290. I just trimmed back the opening on the cover more , and cut additional holes on the inside behind , one in the baffle , didn’t go to crazy on the baffle . I just wish I could braze or weld to make a cool cover .
@danielsmith8659 I don't know your environment, but I assume that since you own a saw, that you don't live in a highrise apt in a big city to where you are not allowed to attempt to weld or braze and whatnot? (not being a smart butt, but some people who are here may live in a place where they would be prohibited from welding or having an open heat source). I will say that welding thin metal is a "next step" in learning to weld; by that, I mean don't try to learn on a rust piece of thin metal. For less than $75 I think a cheap welder can be bought; it may be something to consider? If you're like me, I enjoy learning and self-teaching (and unlike 40 years ago, we now have YT to help teach SO MANY things); welding, even ugly ol nasty looking welds in the beginning, is a skill that will save most people way more than it costs. Even with inflation, you can buy a new welder cheaper now than I could buy a used one 40 years ago. I would encourage you to give it a whirl if taking a couple hundred bucks out of the family budget is not a irresponsible move!!
By far my favourite chainsaw related channel. Always informative and humorous. Great mix.
@sawnut That's awful nice for you to say and awful nice to hear!! Thanks a lot and thanks for being here!!
Like to see both hp and tq at first. But it's nice to see the hp separate later to show really how different it is...
Ps: now you got me thinking I'm going to have to adjust squish band on clam shells. But 8 need more tools first lol
@happy8637 Thanks for the feedback on the dyno charts; that's where I'm leaning (just as you mentioned), show both and then just HP to show a bigger/easier to see margin. Heck, @Archer_82 did his with a socket and by-hand and I don't even think HE used a hatchet!!! 😂😉 Clamshells are a bugger, but they're a cheap buy-in for hacks like me; I've actually bought them for their weight at the scrapyard!
Thanks for the reminder, I need a haircut.
All this time I've been working my chain to get it to cut straight and now you tell me it's my intake. Guess I'll have get one of those porting axes and start hogging.
No way i could get those bearing pockets round enough to seal by hand. You've got the touch.
@Kevin.L_ Kevin, a haircut is an awful big decision... just do 1/2 and make sure you like it first!! 😂
Oh yeah, people spend lots of time on fixin' their bars, chain teeth and rakers only to find out there was an intake issue! I have a checklist before building saws; nothing worse than building a saw for a guy to find out he's left handed!!!
The bearing pockets are actually fairly forgiving; they only touch on three points from the factory; the seal pockets are even easier... they are rubber coated and can take on plenty of sealer if necessary... I think these would have been fine without sealer, but they always get a smear anyway.
The wedge banger is the key to getting everything smooth though!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 I never knew the bearing fit was that forgiving. That changes everything. Thanks for the heads-up.
@Kevin.L_ They are forgiving in the aspect that they merely hold the outer race of a roller bearing; if it's not a tolerable fit, a high spot in a pocket can distort the outer race some and make the bearing tight (hard to spin). BUT, the outer race has plenty of its own structure to withstand some hatchet-work. I've had a saw out for about 3 years with the bottom bearing support (where the transfer divider meets the bearing) completely gone; I ground it out all the way to the point that the rings come down in its stroke. Dang thing was a bugger to get together though because I had to use a pick to get the ring over the hump waaay up inside of there... won't do THAT again... probably.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 If it lasts 3 years I reckon it's ok. Hopefully you won't have to deal with that ring again.
These old Finlanders around here have some great one liners but you darn sure could hold your own with them. You sir have a great day.
@oldcodger1929 Yeah, but, with the Finnish accent; they would sure sound better!! Hope your day is great as well!!
Finnish... don't forget old Simo Haya 😉 lotsa Aho's up in Northern Minnesota too lol 😆
😂Nice hair cut 💇♀️ in the first minute 😅
@z1berzerker Actually, Ol "Sim" (that's what Simo let us friends of his call him) preferred my reloads for precise work!! (first liar ain't got a chance 😉🤣) Can't remember... you ain't from Up Nort with ol Sven, Ole, and Lena are ya?
@z1berzerker Onliest difference between a "good" haircut and a "bad" haircut is ... 3 days!!!
I like Tq... less likely to stall the chain ⛓ in a pinch 😎
@z1berzerker Sounds like everyone is in agreement; Wasn't sure if JUST the hp chart would show small gains better or not as the uppy-downy part of the graph only has to range from 3-5ih instead of 1-5 when it includes torque; it made the HP curve more pronounced leaving it out. It's actually easier to use the torque chart because I actually remove it to do the HP-only chart. Sometimes, you run something up the flag pole and people salute; other times, not-so-much. If there's one thing for sure; I do try different things and ain't afraid to be a loser!! Thanks for the input... y'all might not ALWAYS get your way, but at-least, I will know who I am making mad. 😉🤣🤣😝😝😝
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 Can't have everything 🤷 I am a lefty living in a right handed world 🌍 like you 😉 Carry On
@@z1berzerkercurious just how many of us here are left handed now, it may explain a lot. I’d like to know where he gets the left handed saw chassis for the side by side videos, sure could use one of those! 🤣
@@Archer_82 Hay Chaff is just special like that 🤷 I think 🤔
@z1berzerker I can mess stuff up with either hand, but I can mess stuff up FASTER and BETTER with my left one! 💪
That's sweet!
@happy8637 Thanks Happy!! Like the handle!!
Dang! Nice build. I have thought about if moving the bearing pockets was possible. Great to know that it can be done successfully.
@TheJohnDeereGuy I have done it on a mandrel and @Archer_82 has done it by-hand with a socket; both successfully. He is editing his series on his channel and has a vid or two of the preliminary steps and saw running (if I recall correctly) at the time of this. Being a tractor puller, you know that some mechanical things can be very forgiving... (I welded on the crankshaft of my antique pulling tractor with a MIG welder and it was a consistent winner for the 5 seasons I pulled it.) The bearing pockets merely support the roller bearing outer race, and therefore can stand minor imperfections. Having the first one out of the way, I think I can improve upon the process and ease of the modification!! Thanks for being here; hope your tractor is coming along with no more hiccups!!
It’s great to see this all coming together. Yes sir, you absolutely sparked the conversation/idea about someone with some patience could move the pockets, I did it literally by hand, and your way looks great, and repeatable. Happy you got this video together, I don’t wear quite as many hats as you (😂), and I haven’t found my video editor hat lately (58gb just for that saw)
Now that you have cut the pockets, good luck ever doing a clamshell again with out it, you sure made a lot more work going forward, they run so much better like this, amazing results on the dyno, and it’s not even completely broken in yet.
The 025 now with about 4 tanks of fuel through it is hands down stronger than my 021. The 021 has the squish adjusted, but the 025, cut the squish band to take the exhaust roof from 94 down to 98 along with the tighter squish.
In all, great tool, video, idea collaboration, and power results! Thanks for taking the time to share.
@Archer_82 Thank you Sir; I had sent you a couple of emails and sure hoped I didn't step on any toes.
I don't know that I'd want to do this for other peoples' saws too much in the future with the time involved, but for-sure on my saws from now on!! I wish this was staying as my saw! Oh well, they sell $37 kits all day long, I guess!!
I'm going to ask for the saw back after break-in to do a dyno test again... It'll probably be back anyway with a broken starter rope or something else in need of fixing.
I've got a little MS170 that will need this treatment too... it's worthless as it is. I will have to watch moving stuff too far as I'm not sure I can get my angled tool into the transfers. It probably doesn't even have enough power at this time to even spin the dyno up very far. Man, I love this stuff!! Thank you, sir!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1running on the dyno again after 5-10 tanks or whatever it turns out to be is a great idea! Show us with measured numbers what, if any change there is after “break in” are we over thinking it, or is there a measurable difference.
No toes stepped on, I’m not here for ego, just to learn, maybe share a few things, we all have so many different experiences and ideas, cool things happen when they come together in a positive way.
They do sell kits, that’s an idea there.. pre build a few motors that can be bolted in as needed, maybe the clamshell has its advantages.
For the transfers/ angle tool. Well, not having an angle tool, I have used the $14ish set of double cuts from “the Jungle” as you call it, that set has a few cutters with a top cutting face, so you can straight plunge cut with just a straight rotary tool like a Dremel, with a rather firm mount and grip, bc it does try to walk.
@Archer_82 So much stuff crammed into my videos so far, but there was a measurable difference on the 026 between build and 2-3 tanks; it made a noticeable difference.
You're reading my mind on the buying a complete engine or two (only another $20 or so; a person could use the AM crank for mockup/build and then use the OEM crank when it's time to use it. As far as Stihl goes, a 170, a 250, and a 390 kit would about have it all overed for clamshells. I've used the straight cutters as well and had OK success; I wasn't able to get the angle I wanted on the xfers, but got a little angle before the handle of the tool hit the opposing wall. Better have a hold on it like you're trying to choke out a rattle moccasin 🐍 though!!!
Archer, I think you and I have opened a can of worms here!!!
As a machinist - use a HSS tool. Much better for finish and much safer. HSS tool cut metal - carbide displace metal.
@redmackay1388 THANK YOU!! I will do that!! Thanks for joining-in and thanks for the advice.
I feel like torque is just as important as hp if not more important
@jasentonguepowersaws4206 👍👍 Thanks for the input; it sure isn't a problem to include the ft/lb chart... actually, I have to spend time removing it to only show HP; wasn't sure if, on multiple (3-5) comparisons, if it cluttered it up too much? Also, wasn't sure if it make minor HP differences easier to see as the range of the chart can be shortened? Thanks again for the input/suggestions!!! Hope you have a dandy day!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 being able to set Squish on a clam shell definitely changes my mood towards such saws.
@jasentonguepowersaws4206 I know, right??!! I'm reluctant to do much machine work unless absolutely needed (at this point of the channel) as I want it to be inclusive to people who may only own a knockoff dremel or the such. Clamshells are another story... it's almost a necessity!!! I have a little MS170 that needs the same work... well, actually, if it wasn't given to me, I wouldn't even own one. Cutting the chamber and setting squish to scary levels may make this a fun little saw for trimming blackberry briars, rhubarb, and asparagus. 😉
Good morning sunshine!!!
@FarmlessFarmer-xs1he Good mornin' Sunshine to you too; be safe today!!
also have you considered buying a rode compact wireless mic or similar? i struggle with your audio sometimes
@JyveKilla Thanks so much for the input; I dang well mean it too!!! I can't hear well, so it's hard for me to tell if the audio is adequate. I did buy an external lapel mic, but it didn't work well and will not work with my current camera; I am definitely considering a different camera with which a mic can be paired; it would work well when doing sawmilling and general work which causes me to move nearer/farther from the camera. I really appreciate the feedback!! Previously, in editing software, I multiplied the audio between 2x-10x (depending), but failed/forgot to do it this time and probably others.
I run a go-pro style camera and I think there's one that works well with a mic, but it's a few hundred bones....soon, I hope.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 have a look at the Rode wireless ME. They're under $200 for 2 here in Australia which is a shade over $120 American. They can connect to Apple, USB or 3.5mm mic jacks so they're pretty universal. There's 2 wireless mics and the base unit is also a mic. I'm pretty sure you can connect the mic to the USB port on your GoPro too.
@JyveKilla Will definitely have a look at the Rode; I'm running a knock-off (Akaso V50) but it does have a usb; not sure if they are compatible with mics though; something make me think you have to use THEIR proprietary mic and it's NOT wireless. Thinking DJI before farming season where recording is even harder/worse with equipment noises. Will sure look into the Rode; thanks for the pointer!!
Nothing I couldn’t do with a bone - stock 18 inch saw from harbor freight.😂
@wildridge72 Battery powered and from the "return" bin that had been used to trench the dirt for an underground dog fence?? 😂😉 Good to hear from ya; thought you had crawled into a hole and pulled it in after ya!!
With all the Thinking you must have to do in the figures. You come up with. I can understand why half 28:26 28:26 Your head would be getting so hot and have to cool it off. Where'd your song go I thought it would have been a hit by now.😅😅😅
@garyletizio3174 Weeeelllll, ACTUALLY, it wasn't a haircut at all... my head started swelling but my hair didn't move and it nearly swelled out past my hair!!! My ol' neck gets awful tired lugging this ol' heavy brain around!! 🤓😏🤣🤣 The ol' song was quite a while back and doesn't get much play time by itself.... I think it's a conspiracy by Nashville to keep a good man down!!! 😉🙄
Hey, I thought your barber had a heart attack midway through your haircut.
@TheJohnDeereGuy The ol' Wahl dropped a pin in the spider gears halfway down the track!!
Lol love the humor.
@TheJohnDeereGuy Can't live without a laugh; sure has gotten me though some bad stuff in life!!
That's just the bee's knees!!! You are a fart smeller. 😂 I use a exhaust pipe expander to cut my base. Takes some getting set up but it works. Clamp shells scare me. They might bite you. That's a cool little mandrel you have. I did some chamber cutting mandrels with my fancy used harbor freight lathe. It's slightly modified but gets the job done. Love what your doing. Teaching me how to not be afraid of going further with clamshell setups. Had my old 039 out other day man it's a great saw with a lot of character. Custom rusted out muffler mod helped it at bunch. Love bucking with it. Love the hair that's great stuff. This just tickles me pink to see you getting after it. Doings good things love the content!! Hopefully I'll get some more things out soon. The farm has other ideas. Dozers, brushing and sewing grass has me covered up at the moment. Still tuning in to see one of the most entertaining and informative channels on the tube!!
@eze.Morning_Wood_Farms Thanks! Tell Black Dog that I said "Hey"; I guess, as cheap as I am/can be most of the time, I don't mind potentially ruining a $37 piston cyl kit in an attempt to learn or try something. I hardly ever mess with a OEM cylinder as I'm just a hack and hate to mess up something of that value (my 026 OEM is still unmodified... I go straight to the junk stuff to play around).
Sounds like your 039 has the same muffler mod as dad's 036 the "ol' iron-oxide barn upgrade". Rust takes a little longer, but does a good job!! 😉
I seen @kennytheguitarfanatic054 using an exhaust mandrel (and sockets) as mandrels on his mini lathe too. @Archer_82 did his bearing pockets by hand and is coming out with a series too.
I get the farm stuff; I have a hay mower to tear down that's in need of seals soon. My time (for chainsaws) will ebb a little as farming season/time hits here, too. Be careful and safe my friend!!
Son of a gun Hay Chaff and Saw Dust, you can do one heck of a job with a hose clamp, piece of PVC, chunk a sand paper, a strip of electrical tape and a hatchet modifying them Sthil chainsaws… making um run almost as good as a Husqvarna. I think the real secret to getting that ole Sthil to running so good was putting the Husqvarna name plaque on, made that ole Stihl strut its stuff like an ole bantam roster. Just kidding, after ya told me the story about how the Great Shara Forest was cut I’ve been painting the bottom half of my Husky’s with white paint. I was a wondering, did ya piss-off your barber? (Hope that don’t get me in trouble with TH-cam, already have one strike against me for writing BS about a particular video a year ago in long hand) I see from one of your hats you was a wearing you must have been through our battle born state at least once. Did ya know Nevada hosts not only the oldest but also the second oldest profession… sheep herding. If it wasn’t for humor we’d all be like Miz Ratchet in One Flew Over The Cuckoo Cuckoo’s Nest. I enjoy your humor even when ya talk beyond my comprehension about portin a saw. Reminds me maybe Ole Jim, that lives down the road a piece, has bottled his last falls squeezin’s so we can work on our port intake. Keep um rolling, Ole Mountain Man
@georgefernandes3996 Getting by with nothin' was a way of life for us; started out with nothin' and have most of it left!!
I remember growing up, mom always tried to get us something useful (clothes) and something to play with (a toy of some sort); one year, I only got a pair of dungarees and asked about something to play with... she told me she cut a hole in the pocket to cover THAT.
I got to jabbering too much to my barber and he recognized me from last time... demanded immediate payment right then and there... he was only half done!!
Glad Ol Jim waited a spell to bottle the stuff; heard tell of making a heck of a mess if bottled too early; I prefer my "rendered" a bit JUST to get rid ANY possibility of a bubble... them dang bubbles can hurt a feller!! Thanks Ole Mountain Man!!
PS Try to stay out of Dutch with the sensors!!
Never paid Mabel 😊 I am a cheap MF'r lol.😅
@z1berzerker Poooor ol Mabel!! Hope she don't find out!!!
not much sense showing torque on the graph. most 2 strokes the torque follows the hp so if it made more hp in a spot it would have made torque.
@JyveKilla That was my consideration also; being that HP is torque x RPM, the torque curve is inherently incorporated into the HP curve; seem like the majority prefer the torque curve included; I may do both ways when there are minor gains as I can change the "Y" parameters to exaggerate the the minor differences and make them easier to see. I understand that most people are more familiar with both charts; make no difference to me as I can just look at the numbers without the chart and see what I need to see. Wasn't sure what most liked/preferred. I really appreciate the feedback on this too!!