2007 CX9 Mazda Fob key Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2019
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I've been watching a lot of TH-cam videos about microsoldering for a few months now, but what I have seen with you in a few weeks I have learned more. greetings from the Netherlands
Please could I ask how you opened the salvaged key, without breaking the plastic casing? Thanks
evry time i watch your videos i learn something new from evry video جعله الله في ميزان حسناتك اخي العزيز i will watch all your videos and make sure to do not miss any one . and please dont stop and keep going
Great job big boss 👍🏼
Great job bro. Your subscriber count is booming. Weren't you 8k few days ago?. All the best. You deserve it.
Thanks brother
Hola. trabajo de calidad.gracias de abrirno la puerta de su taller y dejarnos disfrutar de su talento👨🏫🙇♂️
Great repair..good job..
I like these videos alot
thank you,
After the key repair, how it was tested?
What kind of soldering tweezers do you use?
Nice job
Awesome
Can you use hot air and solder paste? What did you use?
But what was the needed SOT-23? FET, BJT or Zener?? I understand you had to guess, but the correct component would be needed for the circuit
😂 in smd dont have same posibilities as normal electronics.. there are a few components with marking.. but other is a guess... thats why he is uing a spare keyfob to take same parts...
hi, do you also fix motorcycle dashboard?? because in the board have flasher relay on it... and its giving 3.74v instead of 12v to power up the indicator... how i can send it to you for fixing... many thanks and more power
حتى مفاتيح السيارات انت معلم و منك نتعلم
تسلم يا غالي
#Awesome
Hi! Must ask, ur microscope, do u only use monitor to look at? Many ppl says it's hard. Whats ur opinion? I've orderd a ton of stuff, Will start repair in sweden. But a amscope is not possible atm, will use monitor insted of optical. So, would love ur opinion :) keep vids commin!
Check out his last video ... he discusses this topic there...
@@wthornton7346 thanks! Confirmed my theory. Sure it can take some time geting used to, but worth it :)
Hi, Westbaytech. As others have stated, there really is no wrong choice here. I use an Amscope stereo microscope and like the image quality and the immediacy of connection between hand and eye. That being said, I've not tried the monitor-method and may enjoy that too. By the by, what's the problem with Amscope in Sweden? Good luck with your repair start-up. :)
It may take sometime getting used to. I remember my wife came to the shop and she wanted to see how it feels like to work under the microscope. She could not point the soldering iron to the component on the board. She had to constantly look down at the board to find where she is pointing at. A stereo microscope is more natural and you can tell where you hand is pointing and how far it is from the board or microscope. Where as with inspection microscope you have to look at the screen 2D image and you do not get the feel on how far or close your hand is to the component you're working with. It's no issue for me because that's how i've been doing it for the past 9 years. You quickly adjust. Comfort is a priority for me over 3d perspective viewing. That is the reason i chose an inspection microscope as it is called compared to stereo microscopes.
@@NorthridgeFix thanks for answer. I belive it's worth the trubble geting used to. I've bought some smd kits to build (just fun / cool stuff) just to get the feel for it. Cheap kits, so a oh-was-i-so-close don't matter :)
Has the customer received his key yet, If so did it work?
İt's like gambling.these 3 pins smd has many different types like dual diodes,npn or pnp transistor.even you have a donor board.you should check the connected parts and choose the right one.thats what a technician have to do.any way you did try your chance.
100%
Please explain. Did you just choose a random 3-pin device from the donor board or did you know what the original part was? (pnp, npn, 2x diode)
What symptoms were with the cards? For me, I can open and close the car, but the mazda will behave as if it did not always read the card. I always start the car with a metal key without any problems. With the card, when you manage to start the engine, the key light flashes. 2 cards behave the same. Please help.
Hi sir for mac can u shear the application with you use
Hi Nice job bye
معلوماتك استاذ حسين مابتتعوضع ربي يرزقك استاذي وتبقى بالف خير
تسلم حبيب قلبي
Please you can tell,which model of tweezer soldering,thank you
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Could you tell me the secret of how to keep a steady hand when working on small components.
Practice :-).
Good
what is the name of the thinner place?
Your a bad man just like me hhhh thank you very much for doing great job there.
Microscope makes everything look so dirty! clean that up :D
I do the same stuff and prefer my boards to be untouched because it is easier to see where they've been abused. Once you clean them bareley every evidence is gone and you'll spent much more time to find a failure. This the reason why I calculate more per hour for a repair if there was an earlier attempt to fix the stuff I get on my workbench :)
@@sebastianweinert3802 No doubt, I meant after the job was done it should def hit the ultrasonic to be nice and shiny.
I dont understand why you dont transfer the imo chip an anything else the maters to the salvaged key that maybe had a better looking an working pcb
It wasn't the same key.
Sir which flux is this that you are using
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Why didn't you have replaced the ICs to the new board, since they were the same storing the key information? I saw 2 IC's, maybe one was the EEPROM chip and the other one the Microcontroller, you could have replaced both from the faulty board to the donor board, replacing just one might not be a good idea since you don't know if the firmware version is the same, and the EEPROm information was compatible in both MCu.
You have guessed about that 3 pin component, maybe it wasn't the same you took from the donor board, or you had further damage.
We could've replaced the iCs if both keys were identical. There is more chance the key is going to work with the component that we replaced compared to taking a chance with replacing the IC's on an unidentical board. The component we replaced was totally damaged. So it was very difficult to know what it was. Customer understands the situation. Worst case, we try again or customer can send a similar donor board to extract the component we replaced.
@@NorthridgeFix Using an oscilloscope you can know if the key is emitting Radio Frec and kinda know if the key is working or not
Great content
Keep the good work
Right. Who says it's a drop-in replacement. Even if it is the same microcontroller and the same eeprom, who says the pin assignment on the board layout is the same. Also there is a slight chance the firmware on the controller might delete the key. Obviously it's better to fix those discrete components and hope for the best. I'm going to agree with others though you could have tested it at the end.
It's up to $800 to get a new (likely refurbished) spare key from the manufacturer, which borders on extortion. These modules should be standardized and you should be able to pick one up at an auto parts for $39.95 and then be able to marry it to your car's ecm yourself.
@@statinskill Well i don't disagree with you, but that's something you can at least compare and see if the pinout matches the same module areas.
At least you have something to compare to, instead of replacing a transistor by guessing since you can as well burn down the micocontroler by using a wrong transistor making the current flow into the wrong direction.
But of course you can always try to look up online on google images, but still hard as well.
FixDaily - Electronic repairs, hacks and tips -- Maybe there's only $100 worth of work here, which means the customer is betting $100 on getting it fixed, instead of having to pay say $500 to get a replacement key from the dealer. If the bet doesn't pan out, they're going to pay $600 in the end which is about 13% more (in my head) than if they had immediately gone the official route. I'll bet yhey're not going to try again if it doesn't work.
The bottom line is that on some repair work only so much effort is possible before it's better to just eat getting it new.
Primero una lavadita para trabajar limpio y al final otra no ay que dejar flux entre los componentes
Hello. Please help. My mazda cx9 2008 has a keyless. 2 cards that work once and fail. Then I have to put the metal key in the ignition. Then the engine always starts. If you manage to start the engine without the key, the "key" light flashes red on the board. Smart key opens and closes the car. The only problem is sometimes I turn the ignition switch and the second time I do not and I have to take the key, the tip. The buttons on the door handle also do not work. Sometimes I press the button multiple times and manage to open the door. I have the impression that the cards are not always seen by the keyless module. What could be the problem?
Code: B1600 - PATS ignition key transponder signal is not received.
- Possible causes -
- Defective ignition key - Defective
PATS antenna or cables
- Damage
PCM module: Opening the door locks with the remote control (keys are not required
ممكن اسئل سوال
😂 swap the chipset job done thank me later(provided it's the same key, in this occasion unfortunately the salvage key ain't got keyless start future)
Why not just swap the ROM ?
مازدا الرومي
5:37 why didn't you melt more solder on each side instead of adding flux?
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