FYI - it appears that the same blower motor was used for all the later Triumphs (Spitfire, GT6, TR6, TR7, Stag) so they should be easy to source from a parts car.
Was under the dash on my 74 tr6 more times than I'd like to remember. The steel tubing at the fire wall was rusted and leaking and the heater hose to the heater core too. At that point i removed the entire heater box and sent the heater core to my local radiator shop had it cleaned and pressure tested. I cleaned and lubed the fan and motor . Used window and door peel and stick gasket material for the heater box and a new piece of 1/4" foam for the door flap that diverts the heat from the floor to the defroster. Not a job i would ever want to do again ! Removing the tachometer and working through the ashtray is the way to go for those nuts up top .
I went through some of that with mine. I got the two right side bolts out ,like you, with the glove box out . The left side stud nut was easy and the top left one I got by working through the ashtray opening and that took a while and sore fingers and wrist. Your tach removal was definitely an easier way. My motor just needed cleaning and some lubrication. Great video you put together. Thanks
Obviously too late, but as you mentioned the air hose / ducts being expensive, you can get generic modern ducting in the right diameter. Used that on my Herald as nobody sells ones cut for a Herald!
I uswed a Pontiac Fiero motor from Delco that cost $20-30 dollars. I had to modify the mount but it works better than the old Lucas motor ever did. I have a video on that on my You TUbe channel.
Perseverance wins the day although I can’t believe as hard as it is to replace, you would put a suspect motor back in. Not being able to get your parts really makes your job hard. Are there no other ways to ship parts? In the States we have several shippers besides the Postal Service.
Why couldn't you have simply shimmed the motor in its mounting leg bracket to move the fan & motor assembly slightly forward and deeper into the heater housing?
I have been using Amsoil Synthetic ATF to lubricate my home air filter fan bushings. It lasts a lot longer then light oil such as 3 in 1 oil. I hope this is useful advice for someone.
Buy a school bus blower motor. Way cheaper and better motor. You still have to do a little fab work on the motor mount, but no cutting on your tr6 parts. Way better and way cheaper. The info is readily available. I bought one of the bus blower motors for my tr6 but have not had time to install it. Make sure you get ccw rotation motor. Both ccw and cw rotation motors are available from same source.
You have an unfair advantage, number one, you know when a video is going to be posted and two, you're just down the road, I'm in Oz, time difference and like I said in the comments, I'm not the first but I'm consistent.
@ no idea when the video is going to be posted…but yes, the time difference I’m sure plays a big part. It’s only in fun anyway Steve. I’ll stop if it bothers You.
Nice repair.... but can I suggest that you rename the title something different ? "Obsolete" is misleading.... if you say "failed" or something like you might get more views from interested people who could benefit from your experience !
That was genius Elin how you made the motor fit. That's what you call "Thinking outside the box"
Outstanding video and presentation
FYI - it appears that the same blower motor was used for all the later Triumphs (Spitfire, GT6, TR6, TR7, Stag) so they should be easy to source from a parts car.
Digging my heater stuff out now
Outstanding Rube Goldberg job on the motor frame fabrication !
Was under the dash on my 74 tr6 more times than I'd like to remember. The steel tubing at the fire wall was rusted and leaking and the heater hose to the heater core too. At that point i removed the entire heater box and sent the heater core to my local radiator shop had it cleaned and pressure tested. I cleaned and lubed the fan and motor . Used window and door peel and stick gasket material for the heater box and a new piece of 1/4" foam for the door flap that diverts the heat from the floor to the defroster. Not a job i would ever want to do again ! Removing the tachometer and working through the ashtray is the way to go for those nuts up top .
It's always nice when a gasket is gasketing correctly.
I went through some of that with mine. I got the two right side bolts out ,like you, with the glove box out . The left side stud nut was easy and the top left one I got by working through the ashtray opening and that took a while and sore fingers and wrist. Your tach removal was definitely an easier way. My motor just needed cleaning and some lubrication. Great video you put together. Thanks
Obviously too late, but as you mentioned the air hose / ducts being expensive, you can get generic modern ducting in the right diameter. Used that on my Herald as nobody sells ones cut for a Herald!
I uswed a Pontiac Fiero motor from Delco that cost $20-30 dollars. I had to modify the mount but it works better than the old Lucas motor ever did. I have a video on that on my You TUbe channel.
I used the guts from a Miata in the case with the controls adapted to TR6 controls, works well.
I added the mgb squirrel cage and that worked fine.
Must be a blower motor made by Joseph Lucas & Sons, Ltd., which explains why it was smoking and pulling 40 amps. It was in its DNA.
Smiths, more like. They were the suppliers for the MGA.
Although it's far easier to blame Lucas.
Talking rubbish buddy , everything they made then is 40 plus years old now .
Remember these electric motors are 30/40/50 years old and the lacquer on the windings is past its used by date.
You missed your calling, Elin. Should have been a cinematographer.
That rubber seal also looks like lower transmission cover seal to floor edge for a TR.
That intro ... I had to sub.
Perseverance wins the day although I can’t believe as hard as it is to replace, you would put a suspect motor back in. Not being able to get your parts really makes your job hard. Are there no other ways to ship parts? In the States we have several shippers besides the Postal Service.
Why couldn't you have simply shimmed the motor in its mounting leg bracket to move the fan & motor assembly slightly forward and deeper into the heater housing?
Zoom zoom 😊
Cheers
I have been using Amsoil Synthetic ATF to lubricate my home air filter fan bushings. It lasts a lot longer then light oil such as 3 in 1 oil. I hope this is useful advice for someone.
I fear that TR6 will be 10 mph slower now, due to the MG parts! 😊
Buy a school bus blower motor. Way cheaper and better motor. You still have to do a little fab work on the motor mount, but no cutting on your tr6 parts. Way better and way cheaper. The info is readily available. I bought one of the bus blower motors for my tr6 but have not had time to install it. Make sure you get ccw rotation motor. Both ccw and cw rotation motors are available from same source.
Aiii! I read "blower motor" and thought we were going to see supercharged MG Twin Cam engine going into a TR6.
And I thought the MGB heater boxes were a PITA..
Yay!
First 😉
You have an unfair advantage, number one, you know when a video is going to be posted and two, you're just down the road, I'm in Oz, time difference and like I said in the comments, I'm not the first but I'm consistent.
@ no idea when the video is going to be posted…but yes, the time difference I’m sure plays a big part. It’s only in fun anyway Steve. I’ll stop if it bothers You.
I'm not the first, but at least I'm consistent.
Nice repair.... but can I suggest that you rename the title something different ? "Obsolete" is misleading.... if you say "failed" or something like you might get more views from interested people who could benefit from your experience !
Are you nuts! That’s blasphemy