OK - This is helpful. I have a new Master V4. The suspension arrived with very sticky action. After watching your video I pulled the seat and trolly handle out and measured .015" (.318mm) out of round at the top clamp. So before even riding it, I will be pulling it apart to shim that top clamp and machining a plug for the bottom to keep things round. Thanks!
Not shown in video re aligning the H-bar has a big impact too, normally if you have loosen the top clamps top, h-bar middle and motor clamps bottom. loose and tighten them all slowly it aligns pretty good And becomes smoother as the bushing wear in too.
I don't have a Master but my first thought was to use a compression plug inside the tube, at the clamping points. Playing with spacers will reduce deformation but sacrifice clamping force. It's basically like riding with loose bolts.
Great job, I am sure that smaller home spacing in the main upper frame is consistent. Same with my master. You could also try to loosen the top bridge screws and tighten them when they are closed to controller
Man, kinda hoped these sorts of things would be worked out after a year and a half of production. Pretty disappointing. Thanks for documenting though! How did you end up getting the screw through the shim? holepunching once you got it located? Also, where did you get the shims from? They looked very conveniently sized.
As the poles needed to be set wider apart from each other I did not do a full 360 shim loop, I only layered the shim on one side to push the poles out the edge making them wider. This left the hole open and made the space more correctly aligned.
same binding suspension problems with my Extreme, resulting in poor small-bump compliance. can the grub screws at the top and bottom of the stanchions be removed permanently? i've sprayed dry PTFE lubricant on the tubes and it helps a lot, but it only works temporarily. this looks like a challenging project for me. are there any simple adjustments to make the suspension better?
Tolerances and alignments seem to very alot. Loosen bolts? That's a main thing I do and it works a lot better. It's a BEGODE. They need a lot of aftermarket work. As do all wheels I've played with.
I tried out your solutions, and they generally helped, however: - When shimming the stanchions, I found it was possible to either bind the top or bottom of the travel ie. the stanchions were not perfectly straight. - I just loosened the pedal hangar bolts rather than shimming them - I shimmed the stanchion with some alumiunium foil. It seems like you can pretty easily make the stanchions too wide. I think if I ever take the wheel apart I will instead try sanding the spacer a little bit, but that might be a pain to make sure I don't overdo it. It'd be nice if we could get begode to provide a correctly dimensioned motor spacer, which would at least fix the stanchion friction from the wrong width.
Glad some of it worked for you. It is a great wheel to customize being all component based. It does require a tear down and slow rebuild to check movement tolerances as you go. Each part you tighten impacts another. I also have a video about the linkages. Have you seen that ?
@@jc84com Yeah, you definitely have to do each part step by step. Stanchions first, then pedal hangars. I was surprised by how many different ways the stanchion tightness can affect the travel friction. My next goal is to find a good shock replacement for the Begode shock. I don't really know how good it actually is, but at least by hand it feels like it has very high friction - perhaps I would be stuck looking for a coil shock to alleviate that though if all air shocks are similar. Yep, I saw your video on the linkage - I'm a bit less sure about the benefits of that, but if you analyze the shock travel we can get an idea of how linear/progressive the linkage actually is between the different settings.
@@jordanb722 I have a factory master of 71mm travel stanchions x linkage bones at the laser cutters, Eta Jan 18th that will take a DNM RCP2S 210mm. Drop in install.
It's a BEGODE.... Having done the same with my T4 and looking at a EX30 they are all pretty much identical. Shared components and not great tolerances. Out of the box is about a 70% wheel Spend 30% making it awesome.
I ended up cutting and stacking the shims a few layers thick, until it felt better, just use any scrap thin spring metal shimming and test. Just need to push the stanchions out wider.
Hi Julian I forwarded your video to Kebye and he's very concerned about that. Should I have your Facebook contact to discuss it more deeply with our team?
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OK - This is helpful. I have a new Master V4. The suspension arrived with very sticky action. After watching your video I pulled the seat and trolly handle out and measured .015" (.318mm) out of round at the top clamp. So before even riding it, I will be pulling it apart to shim that top clamp and machining a plug for the bottom to keep things round. Thanks!
Not shown in video re aligning the H-bar has a big impact too, normally if you have loosen the top clamps top, h-bar middle and motor clamps bottom. loose and tighten them all slowly it aligns pretty good And becomes smoother as the bushing wear in too.
Great job explaining and demonstrating one of the major and usually unrealised Begode suspension issues.
I don't have a Master but my first thought was to use a compression plug inside the tube, at the clamping points. Playing with spacers will reduce deformation but sacrifice clamping force. It's basically like riding with loose bolts.
another good improvement...I cannot beleive those issues were 2 years old and no one noticed them...not even the selelrs..
Great job, I am sure that smaller home spacing in the main upper frame is consistent. Same with my master. You could also try to loosen the top bridge screws and tighten them when they are closed to controller
excellent diagnosis and solutions !
Have you thought about putting either a 3d printed plug or aluminum plug in the tube ends so they can't deform as much when you tighten the clamps?
Great suggestion. Worth a try I'm sure 100% infill will help alot.
great information...thank you!
Excellent video. Thank you.
I recepted my V3 and I have the same problem on top. Thanks a lot
Top video !!! i do the same think on my Master and i upgrade the linkage home made like EMA linkage in inox 5mm and it's amazing and smoth !!
Highly recommend adding +30mm longer stanchions sliders. That makes the master 10x better.
sure but it's a big job you do that perfectly 🤩@@jc84com
Thank you sooo much! You are excellent at comprehensively explaining this issue!
Man, kinda hoped these sorts of things would be worked out after a year and a half of production. Pretty disappointing. Thanks for documenting though! How did you end up getting the screw through the shim? holepunching once you got it located?
Also, where did you get the shims from? They looked very conveniently sized.
As the poles needed to be set wider apart from each other I did not do a full 360 shim loop, I only layered the shim on one side to push the poles out the edge making them wider. This left the hole open and made the space more correctly aligned.
same binding suspension problems with my Extreme, resulting in poor small-bump compliance. can the grub screws at the top and bottom of the stanchions be removed permanently? i've sprayed dry PTFE lubricant on the tubes and it helps a lot, but it only works temporarily. this looks like a challenging project for me. are there any simple adjustments to make the suspension better?
Tolerances and alignments seem to very alot.
Loosen bolts? That's a main thing I do and it works a lot better.
It's a BEGODE. They need a lot of aftermarket work. As do all wheels I've played with.
I tried out your solutions, and they generally helped, however:
- When shimming the stanchions, I found it was possible to either bind the top or bottom of the travel ie. the stanchions were not perfectly straight.
- I just loosened the pedal hangar bolts rather than shimming them
- I shimmed the stanchion with some alumiunium foil. It seems like you can pretty easily make the stanchions too wide. I think if I ever take the wheel apart I will instead try sanding the spacer a little bit, but that might be a pain to make sure I don't overdo it.
It'd be nice if we could get begode to provide a correctly dimensioned motor spacer, which would at least fix the stanchion friction from the wrong width.
Glad some of it worked for you.
It is a great wheel to customize being all component based.
It does require a tear down and slow rebuild to check movement tolerances as you go. Each part you tighten impacts another.
I also have a video about the linkages. Have you seen that ?
@@jc84com Yeah, you definitely have to do each part step by step. Stanchions first, then pedal hangars. I was surprised by how many different ways the stanchion tightness can affect the travel friction.
My next goal is to find a good shock replacement for the Begode shock. I don't really know how good it actually is, but at least by hand it feels like it has very high friction - perhaps I would be stuck looking for a coil shock to alleviate that though if all air shocks are similar.
Yep, I saw your video on the linkage - I'm a bit less sure about the benefits of that, but if you analyze the shock travel we can get an idea of how linear/progressive the linkage actually is between the different settings.
@@jordanb722 I have a factory master of 71mm travel stanchions x linkage bones at the laser cutters, Eta Jan 18th that will take a DNM RCP2S 210mm. Drop in install.
wow I had same problem with v1 master - it is hard to watch that it is same with v4 :(
It's a BEGODE....
Having done the same with my T4 and looking at a EX30 they are all pretty much identical.
Shared components and not great tolerances.
Out of the box is about a 70% wheel
Spend 30% making it awesome.
Bonjour
Quelle est l'épaisseur pour la cale en cuivre ?
Merci
I ended up cutting and stacking the shims a few layers thick, until it felt better, just use any scrap thin spring metal shimming and test. Just need to push the stanchions out wider.
Damn, the chassis has bad structure, im selling this wheel, bought used, so i dont mind
Fantastic decision
@@jc84com thanks man
Hi Julian I forwarded your video to Kebye and he's very concerned about that. Should I have your Facebook contact to discuss it more deeply with our team?
Hello Anita.
I can be reached on Facebook
m.me/julianjc84
Julian Charles Richards
@@jc84com I sent you my friend request. You seem like a very insightful potential tester for us
Hopefully they will address these if they ever do a v5. Kind of shame they didn't three iterations already without doing so