Building an O-gauge Lift Bridge, Lionel Polar Express Layout
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
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Building an O-gauge Lift Bridge on My Lionel Polar Express Layout -
A lift bridge can be a necessity on your O-gauge Layout. But buying one can be expensive. You might have found the cost of a lift bridge to be an obstacle to building the layout you really wanted. I’ve seen prices ranging from $500 to $1800 for mass produced and custom built lift bridges. They can also be hard to find.
I needed a lift bridge on my traditional O-gauge Polar Express Layout for my crossover track. A long grade connects the two lower level tracks on my layout to the elevated track. Where the crossover track goes above the grade, there’s only about an inch and a quarter of clearance. That’s about 3 centimeters. The lift bridge allows me to fold-up a section of Fastrack, so that I can run a train up that grade. Then I can fold it back down so that I can run trains over the crossover track.
In addition to adding a cool factor to my layout, the crossover also lets me reverse a train’s direction. With the design that I’m going to show you now, a lift bridge is affordable for just about everyone. If you have a lift bridge on your model railroad layout, please leave a comment below and tell me how you did it.
A lift bridge needs a firm foundation. And that’s where we’ll start. The crossover is connected to the elevated track mainline by two O-36 remote control switches, one at each end, as shown here. I’ve used Lionel Fastrack for my entire layout. The elevated track is mounted on 1x6 kiln dried poplar boards. Kiln dried means that they’re more stable than common pine boards, with more uniform dimensions. Between the Fastrack and the boards is a layer of 1/4 inch sound deadening foam. The boards are supported by 1-inch poplar dowel rods, cut to a uniform length. These are painted to simulate concrete columns. That covers the basics for the elevated track.
Not a lot of cutting is needed if you can get the dimensions of the bridge to match the length of standard Fastrack sections. On my lift bridge, I have three Fastrack Sections. 10-inches, 5-inches, and 4.5-inches, for a total length of 19.5-inches. These pins on the ends of the rails, however, do need to be pulled out. To remove them, fold in these metal tabs on the end of the rail under the Fastrack. The pins are kept in place by a protruding metal catch that fits into a hole in the Fastrack, here. I used a vice-grip pliers to then bend the tabs pins down so that the metal catch lifts free from the hole. At that point, they drop right out.
Before pushing the rails back down, these plastic tabs need to be cutoff. I used an extra fine finish hacksaw to cut through these tabs. After I removed them, I smoothed the end of the Fastrack section by shaving off the remaining plastic shards with a sharp knife. At the hinge end of the bridge, this needs to be done both on the stationary Fastrack section and on the lift bridge section. On the far end of the lift bridge, the entire plastic end of the Fastrack section must be removed. So that it doesn’t bind on the adjoining stationary section. Again, I used a hacksaw to cut through the plastic cleanly, right on the inside edge of the end piece, here.
After removing the pins and trimming the plastic, push down on the rails, and they should pop right back in place. Then, simply spread the metal tabs under the Fastrack again to hold each rail securely.
I have lots more O-gauge Polar Express videos coming up. Be sure to hit subscribe so that you don’t miss any of them. Also, please click the thumbs up below and like this video. And remember to click on the link below to see other videos in this series on building Track Number 3, my elevated track. Thanks for watching.
Man I'm glad I still use traditional tubular track...I'd hate to have to keep saying fastrack instead of just saying track...
Thanks. While I'm working with RealTrax, I think the principles remain the same. I'm nervous, due to the room entry area, I have to do mine on a corner.
This was wildly helpful in working on my layout. Thank you for the clear communication and simple direction. Happy Railroading!
Cool Update! FYI those 2 comments are from robots, and they usually spam the comments. I get them on my channel a lot, so I usually delete the comment
I saw 2 people saying same thing on each comment before
When running the train across the lift-bridge, does it stop and start across the lift points with flickering lights etc.? Doesn't this cause the train engine to reverse direction?
I have the bridge track wired separately to the power supply. The locomotives have multiple power pickups underneath and through the wheels for both the side and center rails, so they are continuously powered. Same for the tender, which is the sound source for some locomotive sets. Thanks for watching and commenting! Owen
Great job. I use Lionel Fastrack also. I didn’t have a problem building the bridge . My problem is the wiring. When you lift your bridge does stop the locomotives on each side of the lift. If you can help would appreciated it. Thanks
I would recommend isolating the track a few feet on either end of the bridge. Then put a switch on your bridge that applies power to the isolated section of track when the bridge is in place. That way if you go through when the train is on the other end of the layout it does not have to stop, but if it approaches the opened bridge it will stop when it hits the isolated section of track.
Really enjoyed the Lift bridge video.
I am making a drop bridge and I been watching your video and my question is at the hinge end I need to remove pins on both tracks and on opp end cut out
This was very helpful thank you
i was once a metal stud
This was a great video. Thank you
@@OKRanchRailroad Thats great to hear I am glad