Thank you for the useful formula and information. I had to use a 1/2" drive torque wrench with an 8" extension (the extension was actual an armorer's wrench) to torque a castle nut on my AR-15. The original torque value was 40 ft-lbs but once I plugged everything in the formula the actual value with the wrench was 28 ft-lbs. It worked like a champ. Thanks again.
After watching this video i realized that it was my fault that i broke my oil pan screw hole and not a defective torque wrench. I needed a 9 ft lbs but had to add 6" extension. I calculated using this formula and may torque wrench should be at 6 ft lbs with the extension. So glad i saw this video. God bless you!
U added the extensions at the wrench handle or B4 the wrench nut? this calculations apply only for extension added between the bolt and the wrench nut.
I like to use\LW = Length of the wrench; LA = Length of the adapter; LE = Length of the extension.....Wrench 12"; Adapter 4" LW/LW+LA=0.75, this is the correction factor (Cf).... Drawing calls for 100in.lbs but you need a 4" adaptor to reach the nut.( BTW, the nut should always be turning when final torque is reached and none of this double click mess like you see a lot). 100in.lb(0.75)= 75in.lb would be the new torque tool set point....Add a 14" extension to the nominal center of the handle....no adaptor, no Cf......Remember, if the adaptor in 90 degrees to the torque wrench, no Cf required I hope this helps also
So what if your extension needs to go perpendicular versus parallel to the torque wrench. Is the calculation the same? Also, on intake manifold bolts that you can't even get a shallow well swivel socket on how do you get those torqued? Thank you. Great video.
perpendicular extensions are thought to have no torque loss. personally I beg to differ and generally go a couple pounds higher on the torque to make up for potential torsional loss. but that's a big debate that everyone has different answers for. as for the intake bolts, which I know exactly what you are talking about, they make special wrench type attachments for a torque wrench... not sure if it's shown in this video, but it's definitely shown in the video of the 2500hp street engine build on my channel
+Tinman 2 Kustoms this old 304 motor has handy raised areas in the casting around the carb that are impossible. I even bought a SnapOn shallow well swivel socket to try and get to these. I have only one I cannot get to unless I use a 9/16" box end wrench.
Oreilly might not have the tool. I have only ever seen snap on versions. Mac tools might have them. But I seriously doubt oreilly. You could also take a double box ended wrench that has your bolt size on one end and your torque ratchet size on the other end and try and do something that way. Then you would have to do the calculations that I show in this video because you are making your length of your ratchet handle longer, essentially.
I noticed the equation you worked out was different from the formula from the diagram. Is that your version of the formula ? Also, was that diagram for the specific torque wrench u were using?
Anthony Guevara the formula in the diagram was actually wrong. Lol I thought I mentioned that somewhere in this video, but I guess not. The calculations I used were correct. No, the diagram was just a generic one I found on google. The same basic idea applies.
Tinman 2 Kustoms ok yea i noticed it was different relative to the other shown. I wouldn't assume that that formula will work for your specify torque wrench since you obviously know there are different types. The wrench for the page that you found may have a different configuration inside which is why they use that formula. Basically that formula may be specific to the exact wrench.
Tinman 2 Kustoms its possible that they may haven't different spring rates. So one wrench may use a different spring rate to compensate for the length of the wrench and they other wrench may not.
First let me say that I find no problem with your math. However, when using a click type or a meter type torque wrench, how does the length of the torque wrench come into play? When using either type it makes no difference whether you grab the torque wrench in the middle or if you have a 2' pipe on the end of the handle. It will click at the same torque. All that will change is how hard you have to push on the wrench. With a flex beam type, the length makes a difference as the entire beam is flexing to supply the torque, not just the head. That's why they put a pivot in the center of the handle so the force is applied precisely at the same distance from the head every time. Whereas with the other two types of torque wrenches the torque is supplied only at the head, and not over the length of the tool.
math on a monday ??? lol but a good video for the new comers to torque wrench's . I have a formula wrote down in my tool box . Haven't used it a lot . but it is something to know .
Yes yes! I am trying to creatively package my video content now too... now that winter is almost over I need to keep uploading content til spring/car show season hits lol
You've sold the beam torque wrench short. It's as accurate as the pointer on the range dial. If it reads 0 torque at rest, it's calibrated. Calibration, if necessary, only requires bending the pointer until it reads zero at rest. The lever distance is set mechanically and all one needs to do is apply force to the built in pivot point on the handle, then read the torque being applied as the fastener rotates. Digital and click-type torque wrenches are good for repeatability, but they're only as good as their build quality. Most claim +/- % accuracy out of the box. How about after 50 uses? Would you trust a $20 click-type torque wrench to apply the desired torque when rebuilding an engine? In addition, whatever their cost, they all need periodic calibration to ensure the torque signal is accurately signaled.
@@Tinman2Kustoms There's no spring in a beam-type torque wrench other than the beam and drive head assy. deflecting as force is applied to the handle pivot.
@@screenshot123 I don't mean an actual spring. I mean the spring of the steel. It will eventually get weaker as a result of forces. They're made of spring steel. That's how it returns back to Center.
Looked everywhere for this formula! All I kept finding was people saying to turn the extension to 90 degrees. That doesn’t help if I still can’t reach it! 😂
What is up with the few out there that think maths has anything to do with at what torque the tool click? If you add extentions like you are your nuts are going to be torqued at the wrong number. But at the work. Point of the tool the thing will always click at the required poundage it clicks from the feed back from work and has nothing to do with hand position on the wrench or from any work extension added as this short to the point video shows. th-cam.com/video/mk95F0hHS3U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vdS4hI08-O6Tjshk
Snapon has already proved there is no difference in torque when using any ole gth of extension as long as it’s straight here is a video th-cam.com/video/tRR96ILGORU/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the useful formula and information. I had to use a 1/2" drive torque wrench with an 8" extension (the extension was actual an armorer's wrench) to torque a castle nut on my AR-15. The original torque value was 40 ft-lbs but once I plugged everything in the formula the actual value with the wrench was 28 ft-lbs. It worked like a champ. Thanks again.
After watching this video i realized that it was my fault that i broke my oil pan screw hole and not a defective torque wrench. I needed a 9 ft lbs but had to add 6" extension. I calculated using this formula and may torque wrench should be at 6 ft lbs with the extension. So glad i saw this video. God bless you!
U added the extensions at the wrench handle or B4 the wrench nut?
this calculations apply only for extension added between the bolt and the wrench nut.
Good info ............ Something I have not needed to use yet but its now written on my torque wrench with a dremel and a sharpie ...
thanks....finally someone who has explained it properly!
Could u please tell me, how much length is needed to produce 17.5 Nm torque from center of the spanner?
I like to use\LW = Length of the wrench; LA = Length of the adapter; LE = Length of the extension.....Wrench 12"; Adapter 4" LW/LW+LA=0.75, this is the correction factor (Cf).... Drawing calls for 100in.lbs but you need a 4" adaptor to reach the nut.( BTW, the nut should always be turning when final torque is reached and none of this double click mess like you see a lot). 100in.lb(0.75)= 75in.lb would be the new torque tool set point....Add a 14" extension to the nominal center of the handle....no adaptor, no Cf......Remember, if the adaptor in 90 degrees to the torque wrench, no Cf required
I hope this helps also
when you measure the L ...is it calculated when the torque wrench is set to it's lowest ft/lb setting ?
U better grades of extensions wore or new can very flex and wear I see a 5 ft lbs different with extension 6 inch long
So with a regular socket extension that doesnt change the length of the lever. But applys the force thru a 90 degree angle.. we do what?
Do nothing but keep the torque wrench at 90* and make the motion fluid.
Tinman 2 Kustoms cool thanks for the quick response
So what if your extension needs to go perpendicular versus parallel to the torque wrench. Is the calculation the same? Also, on intake manifold bolts that you can't even get a shallow well swivel socket on how do you get those torqued? Thank you. Great video.
perpendicular extensions are thought to have no torque loss. personally I beg to differ and generally go a couple pounds higher on the torque to make up for potential torsional loss. but that's a big debate that everyone has different answers for. as for the intake bolts, which I know exactly what you are talking about, they make special wrench type attachments for a torque wrench... not sure if it's shown in this video, but it's definitely shown in the video of the 2500hp street engine build on my channel
+Tinman 2 Kustoms this old 304 motor has handy raised areas in the casting around the carb that are impossible. I even bought a SnapOn shallow well swivel socket to try and get to these. I have only one I cannot get to unless I use a 9/16" box end wrench.
+Tinman 2 Kustoms looks like it's another trip to OReilly then. Thank you for your help
Oreilly might not have the tool. I have only ever seen snap on versions. Mac tools might have them. But I seriously doubt oreilly. You could also take a double box ended wrench that has your bolt size on one end and your torque ratchet size on the other end and try and do something that way. Then you would have to do the calculations that I show in this video because you are making your length of your ratchet handle longer, essentially.
+Tinman 2 Kustoms probably tons cheaper to do
Why not torque a easy to reach bolt put your extension on and check against that?
LOL good idea
thank u .. for clearing my doubt and simplifying it. was really confused as the abbreviations in the book i read were not put properly
no problem glad I could help. some of the books and information on the Internet is terribly written
Did you just loosen a nut with a torque wrench.... ?
I noticed the equation you worked out was different from the formula from the diagram. Is that your version of the formula ? Also, was that diagram for the specific torque wrench u were using?
Anthony Guevara the formula in the diagram was actually wrong. Lol I thought I mentioned that somewhere in this video, but I guess not. The calculations I used were correct. No, the diagram was just a generic one I found on google. The same basic idea applies.
Tinman 2 Kustoms ok yea i noticed it was different relative to the other shown. I wouldn't assume that that formula will work for your specify torque wrench since you obviously know there are different types. The wrench for the page that you found may have a different configuration inside which is why they use that formula. Basically that formula may be specific to the exact wrench.
Anthony Guevara not really. It's basic geometry
Tinman 2 Kustoms its possible that they may haven't different spring rates. So one wrench may use a different spring rate to compensate for the length of the wrench and they other wrench may not.
Anthony Guevara the end of the earth is possible too. But not likely to ever make a difference in our lifetimes. Lol
First let me say that I find no problem with your math. However, when using a click type or a meter type torque wrench, how does the length of the torque wrench come into play? When using either type it makes no difference whether you grab the torque wrench in the middle or if you have a 2' pipe on the end of the handle. It will click at the same torque. All that will change is how hard you have to push on the wrench. With a flex beam type, the length makes a difference as the entire beam is flexing to supply the torque, not just the head. That's why they put a pivot in the center of the handle so the force is applied precisely at the same distance from the head every time. Whereas with the other two types of torque wrenches the torque is supplied only at the head, and not over the length of the tool.
math on a monday ???
lol
but a good video for the new comers to torque wrench's . I have a formula wrote down in my tool box . Haven't used it a lot . but it is something to know .
Yes yes! I am trying to creatively package my video content now too... now that winter is almost over I need to keep uploading content til spring/car show season hits lol
were a long ways from spring and car shows still :/
eh.... debatable lol
You've sold the beam torque wrench short. It's as accurate as the pointer on the range dial. If it reads 0 torque at rest, it's calibrated. Calibration, if necessary, only requires bending the pointer until it reads zero at rest. The lever distance is set mechanically and all one needs to do is apply force to the built in pivot point on the handle, then read the torque being applied as the fastener rotates.
Digital and click-type torque wrenches are good for repeatability, but they're only as good as their build quality. Most claim +/- % accuracy out of the box. How about after 50 uses? Would you trust a $20 click-type torque wrench to apply the desired torque when rebuilding an engine? In addition, whatever their cost, they all need periodic calibration to ensure the torque signal is accurately signaled.
What if the spring in the beam torque wrench gets weaker after use? It's the same thing as callibration of the digital style.
@@Tinman2Kustoms There's no spring in a beam-type torque wrench other than the beam and drive head assy. deflecting as force is applied to the handle pivot.
@@screenshot123 I don't mean an actual spring. I mean the spring of the steel. It will eventually get weaker as a result of forces. They're made of spring steel. That's how it returns back to Center.
Looked everywhere for this formula! All I kept finding was people saying to turn the extension to 90 degrees. That doesn’t help if I still can’t reach it! 😂
Someone always has to offer pointless solutions lol
thanks for sharing!
Thanks
What is up with the few out there that think maths has anything to do with at what torque the tool click? If you add extentions like you are your nuts are going to be torqued at the wrong number. But at the work. Point of the tool the thing will always click at the required poundage it clicks from the feed back from work and has nothing to do with hand position on the wrench or from any work extension added as this short to the point video shows. th-cam.com/video/mk95F0hHS3U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vdS4hI08-O6Tjshk
great info
Thanks, hope it helps someone
Genius!!!!
Snapon has already proved there is no difference in torque when using any ole gth of extension as long as it’s straight here is a video th-cam.com/video/tRR96ILGORU/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/tv_KHH55qdQ/w-d-xo.html
this is a second opinion