Thanks man!!! I wrestled with a frozen stem for longer than a week. Watched every video on the topic, I tried Apple-Cider-Vinegar-Soaking the Stem upside down, the same with Coke because of phosphoric acid, WD-40ed the shit out of it. I absolutely didn't want to cut it and soak it in toxic chemicals, not in my flat. I tried a lot of force. But I always kept your way in mind and heated it with an electric heat gun and sprayed WD-40 at it each time, over the course of several days. Sometimes I tried cooling the stem down faster with ice. Finally on Saturday I beat the stem, because I stuck to your way of doing it.
Seriouly man THANK YOU. I have a similar bike and after cuting the seatpost stem which was also stuck I didn't want to go the same way for the handlebar. Bought a culinary heat torch on a famous website, heated the threaded part for 15/30 seconds, 4 times on each "side" around the thread. Put some rust remover, saw the magical bubbles indicating that it was penetrating then I heard the magical creaking noise !
Thank for all the techniques shown in this video. I used a 12h overnight soak with antirust, with the bike inverted, then using eat and more anti-rust one more time and eat again, it worked out like a charm. Thank you very much for it!
I have a G.A.C motoretta-2 and I was sturuggeling to find a way to remove the stem, Oh my God; thats was magical lol, I am definetly trying it, keeping you up-dated!
In the past I've had the fork crown clamped in a wood vice / workmate and a straight bar in the stem then penetrating fluid and heat as you've done and then brute force until it starts moving then just stood wiggling it working it loose. If your stuck for penetrating fluid try dot brake fluid just don't get it on paint, clothes or your skin or you could make your own using acetone and vegetable oil, that works really well.
I need a blow torch! I'm doing battle with a frozen stem in a old Falcon 10 speed at the moment. I really don't want to cut the stem, so i'll give this method a go. The bike needs repainting anyway. Good video!
So going to try using heat on my 20 year old race bike I’m try to do a restoration on. Spent the last 3 months trying to get the stem out and really don’t want to saw it off. Thanks for the video
My instinct was to use heat after spraying with penetrating oil to no avail. I was hoping to avoid the expense of buying a blowtorch if I could though. Sadly, I'll have to buy one, just to do this one job which seems a waste.
Hold the fork crown in a vice FIRST. There's Crack-it spray, freeze spray. Heat the steel freeze the ALLOY only! I've seen a few fork ends cracked even broken off from ptevious attempts. Hold the fork crown in a vice- it's awkward. Time will allow the lubricant to work through. You said the ALLOY anodizes you meant oxidizes. There's one in my vice as I type...rare alloy stem has been in place since 1949. Don't want to damage the frame paint or stem itself. I swapped the alloy bars for steel as didn't want to damage the originals.
Got my first real stubborn one last week! And it's alu in alu so I didn't even expect it... I guess that means it's time to buy a blow torch, but it's a slippery slope of tools there because that'll open up gnarly bottom bracket overhauls as a feasible thing to do at home and I'd be tempted to grab a cordless hammer drill to go with. Best try another week of soaking first 💸😂
Yeah. A bucket or two is not a bad idea. My stem is now stuck because I was stupid and didn't think about that from the beginning and now I have a real problem to loosen it.
I'm interested in knowing what I can do to prevent them from getting stuck in the first place, should I use waterproof grease, perhaps some other product rubbed on them?
I managed to break a stem trying to twist the bars once... only had a basic mtb riser stem as a spare and hell it looked stupid on that vintage road frame
Hey was wondering what you did to clean the stem? Did you just give it like a wet sand or? I have a seized stem that I'd like to still use if possible because a new stem is fairly costly on my budget...wish the previous owner just greased the stem a bit :/ grease makes things much easier
Started removing the stem today, for now only tried wd40 and force, nothing, will leave it overnight, but as far as I see, it will take more time, tools and patience
I'll try this one. Currently, my MTB is soaked upside down with WD40. Earlier I had a tough time loosing the stem and fork. Hope this method works tomorrow
The bolt through the centre of the stem? Try knocking it down first with a hammer - If it's an allen key style, use a bit in the centre so you don't deform it, or a piece of wood over the top. Most of the time the wedge at the end of the bolt has seized in place so when you loosen the bolt it won't drop.
Ian Brown I’m going to try your method Ian. I have a good bench vice but the fork won’t fit in it because of the cable bosses and the fork is offset from the steering tube (I.e not straight down). I have an aluminium stem stuck in an aluminium frame which is proving to be very stubborn. Would love to see a video of your method in action.
Nice done post....But pls note Aluminum expands more than Steel when heated.... So OFC you had to let it cool and contract 1st to remove it... FYI auto repair shops wills sometimes uses a welding torch to get a rust part glowing hot just below the melting point to remove rusted parts.... But warning do use that extreme method if your not expert.... A propane or a MAPP gas torch has less risk but you still need to be very careful around any open flame...
I've done similar on small cable guide clamp "bolts". Rusted in + slotted head always equals trouble but after I got it glowing hot it unwound no trouble.
3 month battle over and done with 🎉 now to use the same method on the crankset. Thanks for the vid. You really do have to heat it up to a silly temp though
Keep at it! What methods have you tried so far? This stem was seriously stuck and I did put a lot of time in with the old blowtorch and WD40 method the day before filming. The constant expanding and contracting of the metal must have done the trick and broke the corrosion.
Thanks man!!! I wrestled with a frozen stem for longer than a week. Watched every video on the topic, I tried Apple-Cider-Vinegar-Soaking the Stem upside down, the same with Coke because of phosphoric acid, WD-40ed the shit out of it. I absolutely didn't want to cut it and soak it in toxic chemicals, not in my flat. I tried a lot of force. But I always kept your way in mind and heated it with an electric heat gun and sprayed WD-40 at it each time, over the course of several days. Sometimes I tried cooling the stem down faster with ice. Finally on Saturday I beat the stem, because I stuck to your way of doing it.
A tip: watch series on kaldroStream. Me and my gf have been using them for watching loads of movies these days.
@Quincy Finnley yea, I've been watching on kaldrostream for since november myself :)
Seriouly man THANK YOU. I have a similar bike and after cuting the seatpost stem which was also stuck I didn't want to go the same way for the handlebar. Bought a culinary heat torch on a famous website, heated the threaded part for 15/30 seconds, 4 times on each "side" around the thread. Put some rust remover, saw the magical bubbles indicating that it was penetrating then I heard the magical creaking noise !
Awesome! Glad it worked for you!
Thank for all the techniques shown in this video. I used a 12h overnight soak with antirust, with the bike inverted, then using eat and more anti-rust one more time and eat again, it worked out like a charm. Thank you very much for it!
Liked! Just salvaged two handlebars on a couple of hours. This really worked!
Good work.
I have a G.A.C motoretta-2 and I was sturuggeling to find a way to remove the stem, Oh my God; thats was magical lol, I am definetly trying it, keeping you up-dated!
In the past I've had the fork crown clamped in a wood vice / workmate and a straight bar in the stem then penetrating fluid and heat as you've done and then brute force until it starts moving then just stood wiggling it working it loose.
If your stuck for penetrating fluid try dot brake fluid just don't get it on paint, clothes or your skin or you could make your own using acetone and vegetable oil, that works really well.
I need a blow torch! I'm doing battle with a frozen stem in a old Falcon 10 speed at the moment. I really don't want to cut the stem, so i'll give this method a go. The bike needs repainting anyway. Good video!
It's one of my most used tools ;)
Dude, just wanted to say thanks. Top video and keep them coming.
Thanks. Appreciate it
Hairdryer worked 🙌
Thank you.
Great to hear!
a little trick
would be to fill the tube with vinegar because the rust binds the metal. it worked with me
So going to try using heat on my 20 year old race bike I’m try to do a restoration on. Spent the last 3 months trying to get the stem out and really don’t want to saw it off. Thanks for the video
My instinct was to use heat after spraying with penetrating oil to no avail. I was hoping to avoid the expense of buying a blowtorch if I could though. Sadly, I'll have to buy one, just to do this one job which seems a waste.
Hold the fork crown in a vice FIRST. There's Crack-it spray, freeze spray. Heat the steel freeze the ALLOY only! I've seen a few fork ends cracked even broken off from ptevious attempts. Hold the fork crown in a vice- it's awkward. Time will allow the lubricant to work through. You said the ALLOY anodizes you meant oxidizes. There's one in my vice as I type...rare alloy stem has been in place since 1949. Don't want to damage the frame paint or stem itself. I swapped the alloy bars for steel as didn't want to damage the originals.
Got my first real stubborn one last week! And it's alu in alu so I didn't even expect it... I guess that means it's time to buy a blow torch, but it's a slippery slope of tools there because that'll open up gnarly bottom bracket overhauls as a feasible thing to do at home and I'd be tempted to grab a cordless hammer drill to go with. Best try another week of soaking first 💸😂
you've reminded me I need to grease my stem
Yeah.
A bucket or two is not a bad idea.
My stem is now stuck because I was stupid and didn't think about that from the beginning and now I have a real problem to loosen it.
Thank you, at least the stem is moving a bit from one side to another, but i don't know why it doesn't go out yet.
Nice work. Good video. Thanks!
You're welcome!
I'm interested in knowing what I can do to prevent them from getting stuck in the first place, should I use waterproof grease, perhaps some other product rubbed on them?
I managed to break a stem trying to twist the bars once... only had a basic mtb riser stem as a spare and hell it looked stupid on that vintage road frame
Hey was wondering what you did to clean the stem? Did you just give it like a wet sand or? I have a seized stem that I'd like to still use if possible because a new stem is fairly costly on my budget...wish the previous owner just greased the stem a bit :/ grease makes things much easier
Thanks, great video .
You’re welcome
Like the idea, better than a few videos on here. 😜😜😜
you can bung a wine cork in the hole at the bottom, and then fill it up with wd-40 from the top so it bathes in it.
Yeh that could work if it covers the brake mounting hole enough.
Started removing the stem today, for now only tried wd40 and force, nothing, will leave it overnight, but as far as I see, it will take more time, tools and patience
I'll try this one.
Currently, my MTB is soaked upside down with WD40. Earlier I had a tough time loosing the stem and fork. Hope this method works tomorrow
Did it
Yep...your video confirmed, time for some heat
wondering if the upper bearing races restrict how much the steerer can expand...
I'm currently working on a possible 60 year old bike with completely rusted headset, the top bolt is loose but won't come out, can i fix this???
The bolt through the centre of the stem? Try knocking it down first with a hammer - If it's an allen key style, use a bit in the centre so you don't deform it, or a piece of wood over the top. Most of the time the wedge at the end of the bolt has seized in place so when you loosen the bolt it won't drop.
Nice. You just use torch to heat it to expand metal then soak with wd40?
got a 1980 japanese nishiki with a 50cc motor on it im putting a spring fork
Oki koki. Sounds good.
What type grips grips are these? I have stuck tube ring lock nut
How much does a torch cost ?
SANA ALL
Please provide a link of where to buy the large squeeze bottle of WD40 that you are using in the video. Thanks.
Would love to see a video on this problem on a bike not from the 1930s
That's a 70's bike ;)
How did you get enough leverage in the forks? I keep bending my forks completely out of shape
Ian Brown I’m going to try your method Ian. I have a good bench vice but the fork won’t fit in it because of the cable bosses and the fork is offset from the steering tube (I.e not straight down). I have an aluminium stem stuck in an aluminium frame which is proving to be very stubborn. Would love to see a video of your method in action.
@Ian Brown Which penetrating fluid do you recommend? I'm using WD40 and some Halfords Shock spray but I think there is better stuff out there.
Ian Brown It’s not going well Ian. Bent my sash clamps and it’s not budging. Close to throwing in the towel ☹️
@@terrytowelling6212 have u thought of getting the stem out with caustic soda if nothing else has worked?
tooslinamino Don’t really want to go down that route. I think my frame is aluminium as well so it would eat that too.
Nice done post....But pls note Aluminum expands more than Steel when heated.... So OFC you had to let it cool and contract 1st to remove it...
FYI auto repair shops wills sometimes uses a welding torch to get a rust part glowing hot just below the melting point to remove rusted parts.... But warning do use that extreme method if your not expert.... A propane or a MAPP gas torch has less risk but you still need to be very careful around any open flame...
I've done similar on small cable guide clamp "bolts". Rusted in + slotted head always equals trouble but after I got it glowing hot it unwound no trouble.
Would an electric heat gun do the same job?
Possibly, but sometimes you really have to heat the metal up and I don't think a electric heat gun will pack that much of a punch
3 month battle over and done with 🎉 now to use the same method on the crankset. Thanks for the vid. You really do have to heat it up to a silly temp though
how can you prevent this from happening?
A little bit of grease in the steerer tube before inserting the stem.
I'm currently fighting a war against a 25 years old stem and I feel miserable. I really like the bike but I don't know what I'm gonna do.
Keep at it! What methods have you tried so far? This stem was seriously stuck and I did put a lot of time in with the old blowtorch and WD40 method the day before filming. The constant expanding and contracting of the metal must have done the trick and broke the corrosion.
There's always caustic soda if u have an aluminum stem!
Would this work with a hot air gun? Or does this only work with a blow torch level of heat?
Possible, but I think you'd need to get it hotter.
might be you legs won’t let it turn
it's aluminium oxide and it's fken impossible
Ever heard of using tape?
1 twist his fork
2 Just thake the weel put and get Amstel rod and bang iT up there wich oli
Just slab some grease on there next time problem solve.
Slap some grease on to free a stuck stem? Not sure that’s going to work getting it free…
@@MonkeyShred I am saying before assmable it back u want to slap grease on there
Lol these aren’t frozen those bikes aren’t even 50 years old
Wait. You’re telling me rust / galvanic corrosion only happens after 50 years?? 😱 Crazy.
@@MonkeyShred only the good ones this shit is laughable break out the.l butter wrench
how to remove stem
step 1: put whatever you got theh
7 minutes to finally get to the point then it's just a way that ruins your bike, would have been nice to be told at the start of the video.
Heating the frames head tube does nothing but burn paint. Heat the steerer tube, that has the thread. Cool the stem with freeze spray.