This is perfect Information, delivered concisely and to the point, which is precisely what I was looking for. I clicked a number of American videos first, and each of them was about 15 minutes long, and spent a long time waffling or going step by step from unboxing to fitting, which is not necessary. Just the information about how to actually fill it once it's all installed was all I needed. Thank you
If you don't want to remove your pads etc and still keep them from getting contaminated, just wrap the caliper with a piece of cling film covering the pads, pop the bleed valve through the wrap and it will stop any accidental fluid to pad contamination.
Thanks for this video. I decided to get my bike, that had been abandoned for 2 years, going again and the brakes didn't work at all. I wasn't sure how to fix them. I used your advice and now it's all good again!
Good and concise video! But I would highly recommend removing the brake pads and using a bleed block. It's true that once you get good at bleeding, your chances of contamination get pretty low, but why risk it? It only adds 30 seconds or so to the procedure and it's worth eliminating that potential trouble spot, especially if you're not experienced with bleeding.
Thank you so much for this video. It's the exact model calipers I have and I've never done this before. I spent about an hour just trying to find a video or manual that made this simple to understand. Your video nailed this in less than 5 minutes. Now I feel so much more confident knowing how to fix this next time without having to look anything else up online.
There are some missing steps here as others have said! You should purge any air from the syringe before pushing through the caliper. You are missing the steps of passively releasing air (and a little mineral oil from the caliper) and positioning and flicking the levers several times to remove any remaining air in the reservoir. You should most certainly remove the wheel and pads and secure the proper bleed block between the caliper pistons...
This is incorrect. Read the user manual. When bleeding shimanu breaks it very clearly says do not touch the lever at all. And if you do you need to restart the whole process. Please do not spread information that you do not know to be 100% correct. This is what’s wrong with the internet. If you’d like the link let me know I will send it to you. The only time you should flick the lever is when you draining the fluid on shimanu one way brake system.
Head over to your local bike shop. They should be able to help with the part and may even have a couple spare lying around. If not, the shop you bought it from, or the distributor in your area should be able to help out.
Great tutorial, even though my Deore M575s are a little different configuration, you provided enough information about why you did the specific steps for me to figure out the things that were different. Specifically, the valve release is a nut just behind the feed nipple, not a hex screw on top. Otherwise, after a slow step by step for the rear, I was able to breeze through the front with no help! Thank you for sharing!
Was totally unfamiliar with bleeding bike brakes, but I got a kit for $20 and followed the video and they're good as new. A few videos I watched before this were much longer and involved removing the pads and using spacers which I wanted to avoid doing.
I think a series were every week you do a few parts on building a bike and after about 20 episodes you have built a full bike. That would be great considering i am going to build a cylocross bike
sue him :-)) honestly, the wheel plus the brake pads should be removed beforehand, otherwise the rotor or the pads would get contaminated. Then a plastic bleed spacer should be placed between the pistons to avoid any moving of them
very helpful- watched a few times before I got the steps in my mind, but worked well and sorted the problem. used the tip below about cling film to minimise any contamination
Thanks for your educational experience and resources and it definitely saves time and money taking care of your breaks yourself I really appreciate your time and sharing your video podcast I'm going to be ordering my break fluid bleeding kit. God-bless.
So what abut the pad position? If the pads are worn and you bleed the system and then try to replace the pads won't the system be overfilled? Also, maybe remove the pads before the bleed so you can pump the pistons back into battery and you also don't inadvertently spill fluid on the pads.
New to mountain bikes but have bleed many brakes on vehicles. I've seen a few videos and I'm always surprised by the given technique. Why don't people just use a syringe to push the new fluid into the reservoir and out the caliper and/or pump it out with the brake handle while filling the reservoir?
Cheers for clearing up my questions I had running around in my head. First bike I've had in many years and tech has come along a fair bit. Curious that dot 5 silicon based fluid isn't used but no doubt there's a reason.
I'd be taking the brake pads out during the process, replacing them with the yellow plastic block that Shimano make for the purpose. One drop of oil on the pads and they're stuffed.
Just a note. If you have cheaper oil use it in the top cup to fill it just a bit. Then push the new oil in and when all bubbles and old oil is out shut the valve. You're just gonna toss the oil in the cup anyway, and none of the cheap oil will go down. No sense tossing the expensive oil.
Yes, that is right! I also use masking tape around and below the brake system so any leaks can be blocked and absorbed by the tape, and will not get to parts that will affect braking and soak in to the pads (this will be, like you say permanently absorbed, and cause less friction and squeaking. Also masking tape adhesive is not going to mark the paintwork.
After turning 1 round anti-clockwise for the valve at the brake device below, did you forget to tighten the valve back (@video 2:33) when putting on the rubber dust cap?
For us across the pond - chuffed adjective 1 pleased, delighted; flattered; very excited. Originally northern English dialect meaning 'proud', adopted by military, then wider society.
Should you not remove the brake pads before bleeding the brakes, so that they won't get contaminated ? Shimano also give the plastic spacer that fills the gap between the two pistons (where the pads been) - you don't seem to use it. I've seen shimano deore bleeding video and it looks quite different.
So I applied the break to check the pistons moving after removing the bleeding block, before putting back the pads. It doesn't seem to have caused any problems - I pushed the pistons back with a scissor. Do you think I need to bleed again or nothing to worry about?
I've used vegtable oil in all my bikes that take mineral oil for 30 years now, it's never caused any problems or ever caused Corrosion in my parts or o rings and works extremely well i would go to say it works better and gives to good stiif non spongy breaks
Sooo...what happens when your Trek has Shimano hydraulic brakes and there is no bleed plug to screw the cup into on the reservoir end...? Two Philips screws holding on the reservoir cover 0n - and that's it. Any ideas??
I'm looking at doing this today/ most likely tomorrow. Towards the end of the bleed, whats to stop air infiltrating the system when removing the funnel from the bleed port on the lever itself?
I pop wheelies on my bike and I noticed that when both wheels are on the ground break lever feels good but when I put the bike in the wheelie position my break lever gets really spongy what does this mean and how can I fix ?
My shimano brakes haven't got a whole to put the funnel on only 2 screws for the cap to come off the reservoir, I can't seem to find a video on this sort of brake can anyone give me some advice?
Best style - thanks! No bs, no ads, no slow blah-blah - awesome job!
As a bike mechanic myself, this is a great informative video.
"careful not to spill any fluid" then yanks the tube away like a mad man
02:24 😂
Lmao it wasn't that bad but your statement killed me 🤣🤣🤣
couple drops due to small tools being used
This is perfect Information, delivered concisely and to the point, which is precisely what I was looking for.
I clicked a number of American videos first, and each of them was about 15 minutes long, and spent a long time waffling or going step by step from unboxing to fitting, which is not necessary. Just the information about how to actually fill it once it's all installed was all I needed.
Thank you
If you don't want to remove your pads etc and still keep them from
getting contaminated, just wrap the caliper with a piece of cling film
covering the pads, pop the bleed valve through the wrap and it will stop
any accidental fluid to pad contamination.
thank you!
Now you tell me😢
Thanks for this video. I decided to get my bike, that had been abandoned for 2 years, going again and the brakes didn't work at all. I wasn't sure how to fix them. I used your advice and now it's all good again!
Good and concise video! But I would highly recommend removing the brake pads and using a bleed block. It's true that once you get good at bleeding, your chances of contamination get pretty low, but why risk it? It only adds 30 seconds or so to the procedure and it's worth eliminating that potential trouble spot, especially if you're not experienced with bleeding.
Good advice.
This
I absolutely ruined my brake pads the first time I tried this so I definetly support your statement
Thank you so much for this video. It's the exact model calipers I have and I've never done this before. I spent about an hour just trying to find a video or manual that made this simple to understand. Your video nailed this in less than 5 minutes. Now I feel so much more confident knowing how to fix this next time without having to look anything else up online.
me too
And me too. No faffing around, did front and back brakes on first attempt in less than 10 minutes - nice sharp brakes now.
There are some missing steps here as others have said! You should purge any air from the syringe before pushing through the caliper. You are missing the steps of passively releasing air (and a little mineral oil from the caliper) and positioning and flicking the levers several times to remove any remaining air in the reservoir. You should most certainly remove the wheel and pads and secure the proper bleed block between the caliper pistons...
You are a legend. Thank you for the advice 7 years later.
Hey, the next time you go poop, let me know because I want the diamonds.
This is incorrect. Read the user manual. When bleeding shimanu breaks it very clearly says do not touch the lever at all. And if you do you need to restart the whole process. Please do not spread information that you do not know to be 100% correct. This is what’s wrong with the internet. If you’d like the link let me know I will send it to you. The only time you should flick the lever is when you draining the fluid on shimanu one way brake system.
@TheMadStrater @AnalogueDrift
I know a person who's addicted to brake fluid. He can't stop himself.
YoloMcSwaggins Ayyyyy
Alex Greenwood good one
Gimme a brake !!
Eyyyyyyy!
Daaaaaaaaaaaad!!
Head over to your local bike shop. They should be able to help with the part and may even have a couple spare lying around. If not, the shop you bought it from, or the distributor in your area should be able to help out.
Great tutorial, even though my Deore M575s are a little different configuration, you provided enough information about why you did the specific steps for me to figure out the things that were different. Specifically, the valve release is a nut just behind the feed nipple, not a hex screw on top. Otherwise, after a slow step by step for the rear, I was able to breeze through the front with no help! Thank you for sharing!
Be sure not to spill any fluid
That's common sense.. It's like saying be careful not to put some brake fuel into your mouth and swallowing it once it did.
You definitely need to remove your rotor (wheel) and your pads and place them in another town while you do this. The mineral oil gets EVERYYYYYYWHERE!
dudewheresmybee
The procedure should be pretty much the same, yes - I'm not sure of the specifics of the SLX brakes though.
Nice short, simple and foremost a encouraging video.
Thanks guys. I'm The World's Worst Home Mechanic & that took me about 15 minutes. 👍
Was totally unfamiliar with bleeding bike brakes, but I got a kit for $20 and followed the video and they're good as new. A few videos I watched before this were much longer and involved removing the pads and using spacers which I wanted to avoid doing.
I think a series were every week you do a few parts on building a bike and after about 20 episodes you have built a full bike. That would be great considering i am going to build a cylocross bike
Thanks that took less than 5 minutes now my brakes work perfectly.
Simple, easy to understand guide to follow. Thank you
This was easy after watching the video. Thanks much! My rear brake action is firm. Ready for stabilizing during riding.
Helped sort my front shimano with minimum effort. Thanks guys!
you're very welcome stephen
Thanks for the video and your time, newbie here needing to service my brakes.
Thanks for direct and simple instruction. Making things possible
Thank you. First time adjusting hydraulic brakes and your video made it simple and done in 5 minutes!
Can't get any easier than that. Just watched a sram bleed video, too complicated. Shimano all the way! Thanks this very helpful guys!
+thebowhunter888 I used to have Sram - never again. I bled my shimano rear brake today - no problem.
I did everything he said now I'm in a hospital bed in a body cast
sue him :-)) honestly, the wheel plus the brake pads should be removed beforehand, otherwise the rotor or the pads would get contaminated. Then a plastic bleed spacer should be placed between the pistons to avoid any moving of them
Uwe Gablenz honestly the worst video I’ve ever seen.
Just perfect. Short and to the point.
Excellent! Worked for me!
Slightly different all-in-one nipple/bleed valve arrangement with my brakes, which worked nicely.
very helpful- watched a few times before I got the steps in my mind, but worked well and sorted the problem. used the tip below about cling film to minimise any contamination
Just what I needed for my BR-M447 brakes. Thanks.
I used a rag instead of a reservoir, and a medical syringe, and an old fuel hose, worked like a charm.
Thank you again. It was sooooo dirty. So stoppie now!!
This My Homie CJ!! This is how a tutorial should be done, Top Man Alan, 5 Golden Stars From Me
Thanks - this video, for me, was the easiest to follow.
Short and to the point. Thanks Dan, top stuff.
Thanks for your educational experience and resources and it definitely saves time and money taking care of your breaks yourself I really appreciate your time and sharing your video podcast I'm going to be ordering my break fluid bleeding kit. God-bless.
So what abut the pad position? If the pads are worn and you bleed the system and then try to replace the pads won't the system be overfilled? Also, maybe remove the pads before the bleed so you can pump the pistons back into battery and you also don't inadvertently spill fluid on the pads.
Great help thanks. Nice, sharp front and rear brakes now in less than 10 minutes at the first attempt. Cheers!👍
New to mountain bikes but have bleed many brakes on vehicles. I've seen a few videos and I'm always surprised by the given technique. Why don't people just use a syringe to push the new fluid into the reservoir and out the caliper and/or pump it out with the brake handle while filling the reservoir?
Like a car?
Gonna do this tomorrow, new discs n fluid on my Scott, great vid, to the point
Great vid. Just did the job in 10 minutes thanks to your instructions. Thanks!
I might need a brake from this video but I can't stop watching
Perfect timing. Just installed some new shimamo hydraulics and need to cut the cables to length.
Nice, concise instructions!!
My first thought when I started watching this video was "How are you so sure there is no trapped air". Then I looked at the comment section.
Hi, Could you do a video on installing Hydraulic hose cable into brake levers and calipers?
Simple! Well done.
Cheers for clearing up my questions I had running around in my head. First bike I've had in many years and tech has come along a fair bit. Curious that dot 5 silicon based fluid isn't used but no doubt there's a reason.
Does the lack of oil affects the quality of the brake?
please make a video on campanyolo hydraulic disc brakes.
I'd be taking the brake pads out during the process, replacing them with the yellow plastic block that Shimano make for the purpose. One drop of oil on the pads and they're stuffed.
Just a note. If you have cheaper oil use it in the top cup to fill it just a bit. Then push the new oil in and when all bubbles and old oil is out shut the valve. You're just gonna toss the oil in the cup anyway, and none of the cheap oil will go down. No sense tossing the expensive oil.
This is a great tutorial given that you're not an idiot and use common sense when changing the fluid.
I feel able after watching this. Thanks!
Thanks this fixed my rear brake, only problem is every time I brake it sounds like a crying ghost. Does anyone know how to fix this?
Thanks bro this video really helped me
Brake Bleed Funnel (Shimano) are not the same threads. Therefore to casually screw on is not always possible. To find the correct adaptor is a sod
You should really remove the pads before you do this.
I'd concur, and I remove the wheel too. Brake fluid is impossible to remove from a brake pad. The rotor is cleanable, but its best to not have too.
Yes, that is right! I also use masking tape around and below the brake system so any leaks can be blocked and absorbed by the tape, and will not get to parts that will affect braking and soak in to the pads (this will be, like you say permanently absorbed, and cause less friction and squeaking. Also masking tape adhesive is not going to mark the paintwork.
And he skipped how to remove the air trapped, there is a way....to do it
Are you questioning GCN??? Fite me rite now!
Any videos out there showing how to bleed the system with the caliper off the frame, like he mentioned in the end?
After turning 1 round anti-clockwise for the valve at the brake device below, did you forget to tighten the valve back (@video 2:33) when putting on the rubber dust cap?
2:05
I did this today.I was really chuffed with myself that I managed to do it myself.I removed the pads though.
For us across the pond - chuffed adjective 1 pleased, delighted; flattered; very excited. Originally northern English dialect meaning 'proud', adopted by military, then wider society.
I've never had to bleed a brake before as I've always had cables. Excellent Video. Very simple straight forward instructions. Thank You.
Should you not remove the brake pads before bleeding the brakes, so that they won't get contaminated ? Shimano also give the plastic spacer that fills the gap between the two pistons (where the pads been) - you don't seem to use it. I've seen shimano deore bleeding video and it looks quite different.
Short, simple and to the point. Need more people with this approach and not 10 mins of talking just because.
can you send a link to a hose-locking device, please?
Wow easy than I thought. Thanks a lot.
So I applied the break to check the pistons moving after removing the bleeding block, before putting back the pads. It doesn't seem to have caused any problems - I pushed the pistons back with a scissor. Do you think I need to bleed again or nothing to worry about?
Thanks for your video i got more information
So what's about the one way in built valve ? How can you tell if it's damaged?
Looks easy enough. Thx for the video 👍👍🚴🚴
Thank you for this video, exactly what I needed.
I've used vegtable oil in all my bikes that take mineral oil for 30 years now, it's never caused any problems or ever caused Corrosion in my parts or o rings and works extremely well i would go to say it works better and gives to good stiif non spongy breaks
How much mineral fluid do you need to suck with the syringe to successfully bleed the brakes.
It's not a huge amount - really all you're looking to do is get rid of the air from in the system.
About 25ml
What does this cost? And also to change the brake pads for shimano?
Very interesting thank you.
Thanks for the video, it's very helpful
holy cow! thanks guys! I didn't know it was that easy
Still helpful! Thank you!
thank you so much. very clean information.
Do you have to do this every x years or miles?
loved that bike! what bike is that? alpine internal gear system, fully rigid and disc brakes! awesome
Can the old oil be reused by any means? If so, what are the potential drawbacks?
Great video! Thanks
whats that black thing he is using to told the bleed point in place?
Sooo...what happens when your Trek has Shimano hydraulic brakes and there is no bleed plug to screw the cup into on the reservoir end...? Two Philips screws holding on the reservoir cover 0n - and that's it. Any ideas??
I'm looking at doing this today/ most likely tomorrow. Towards the end of the bleed, whats to stop air infiltrating the system when removing the funnel from the bleed port on the lever itself?
gravity
Why have i seen clips using syringe to extract old fluid from the caiper while topping reservoir up
Most wont notice the finesse exhibited in popping the hose off
What if your brake doesn't have the top Allen key for the cup +?????
Dzięki ! Twój film był bardzo pomocny :)
Can You Tell Me Which Hex Key Consider To Use For I am Doing That? Thank You
This video really helped me out, thanks
Hi. So my front right works but the the lever is sloppy and doesn't pop out as the other side does. Your thoughts ?
I pop wheelies on my bike and I noticed that when both wheels are on the ground break lever feels good but when I put the bike in the wheelie position my break lever gets really spongy what does this mean and how can I fix ?
i was thinking about upgrading to shimano xtr M988, i wonder if u still bleed the brake as he did.
Remove the Wheel and Breakepads before to bleed in order to avoid a contamination!!
Thanks
My shimano brakes haven't got a whole to put the funnel on only 2 screws for the cap to come off the reservoir, I can't seem to find a video on this sort of brake can anyone give me some advice?
you probably want to gravity bleed it. Just make sure the fluid in the reservoir doesn't run out when you do.