Thank you for this sensible guide to tying on classical strings. It amazes me that otherwise knowledgeable guitar builders and players make this harder than necessary!
Thanks for the great video! It's really helpful that you used a large scale model bridge and tie block for demonstrating the various techniques. I especially like the 3-holes-per-string method, as the strings don't go over the tie block.
Mr Schramm! I am using 18 holes on some of my guitars for quite a while before I came here for your video. 1) I am looping string below (just an opposite with what you suggest at 6:23) main part of the string going to the saddle. Why do you use loop above the string? 2) On the trebles I have never used additional tie in lock knot just stopping at 7:00, but (once or twice) used a simple overhand knot on the treble string that does not allow allow the knot to untie. Thank you for video!
On a 6-hole bridge, I use the method you demonstrated for the bass strings. And I also use it for nylon trebles with the only difference: I add a small overhand knot as a stopper at the end of the string. I learned it from Yamaha guitars, they come like that from the factory. For more slippery carbon strings a figure 8 knot or an Ashley stopper knot should work (must be tested with a specific string though).
So apparently I've been re-stringing my nylon string guitar wrong for years now... oops! 🙃 But hey, at least now I know the right way to do it! Thanks for sharing! This is very helpful!
@@schrammguitars thanks! I really liked the video and I've just changed my strings the way you showed and I'm pretty much satisfied, I'm looking forward for the video locking the strings on the headstock
Is there a video planned to do the headstock end as im totally confused by so many video variations on you tube. There must be the official way thats able to be clearly shown?
Thank you for an extremely helpful/informative video. I’m new to classical guitar so having this video is very helpful. Can I ask a quick question please? My Saers S9S has a 12 hole bridge. Do I have to use the 12 holes when I fit new strings? Or can I just use 6 instead? Thanks again Ian
Ian, Thanks for your kind words. Yes you can use just the 6 holes, but it will have less break angle. The reason for the 12 hole system is to increase the break angle from the tie block to the saddle.
Thank you for this sensible guide to tying on classical strings. It amazes me that otherwise knowledgeable guitar builders and players make this harder than necessary!
Thanks for the great video! It's really helpful that you used a large scale model bridge and tie block for demonstrating the various techniques. I especially like the 3-holes-per-string method, as the strings don't go over the tie block.
Glad you liked it!
Thank you David!
Excellent video. Just what I needed. Thanks!
Mr Schramm!
I am using 18 holes on some of my guitars for quite a while before I came here for your video.
1) I am looping string below (just an opposite with what you suggest at 6:23) main part of the string going to the saddle. Why do you use loop above the string?
2) On the trebles I have never used additional tie in lock knot just stopping at 7:00, but (once or twice) used a simple overhand knot on the treble string that does not allow allow the knot to untie.
Thank you for video!
Use what works for you.
On a 6-hole bridge, I use the method you demonstrated for the bass strings. And I also use it for nylon trebles with the only difference: I add a small overhand knot as a stopper at the end of the string. I learned it from Yamaha guitars, they come like that from the factory. For more slippery carbon strings a figure 8 knot or an Ashley stopper knot should work (must be tested with a specific string though).
So apparently I've been re-stringing my nylon string guitar wrong for years now... oops! 🙃 But hey, at least now I know the right way to do it! Thanks for sharing! This is very helpful!
Very cool Jace.
Show how to lock the strings on the headstock for the next video ;)
Yes, I plan to. As soon as I find my model. Somewhere in the shop.
@@schrammguitars thanks! I really liked the video and I've just changed my strings the way you showed and I'm pretty much satisfied, I'm looking forward for the video locking the strings on the headstock
Thanks for this helpful info David. Any giant Headstocks around that you could show the proper method at the tuning pegs?
Actually I do! I just don't know where it is, but when I find it I will create a video.
@@schrammguitars Great! LOL Looking forward to it.
Thank you so much for this!!
You are welcome Cesar
Is there a video planned to do the headstock end as im totally confused by so many video variations on you tube. There must be the official way thats able to be clearly shown?
Thank you for an extremely helpful/informative video. I’m new to classical guitar so having this video is very helpful.
Can I ask a quick question please? My Saers S9S has a 12 hole bridge. Do I have to use the 12 holes when I fit new strings? Or can I just use 6 instead? Thanks again
Ian
Ian, Thanks for your kind words. Yes you can use just the 6 holes, but it will have less break angle. The reason for the 12 hole system is to increase the break angle from the tie block to the saddle.
@@schrammguitars thank you David. I appreciate you taking the time to reply. Maybe I’ll try your 12 hole tying method! Cheers
Ian
Can i string a 18 or 12 like a 6?
Yes you can. The break angle will change though.
@@schrammguitars ok, thank you!!!!