Rusty boot lid restoration (Alfa GTV Restoration EP4)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
- The old crash damaged and rusted boot lid for the Alfa GTV finally gets a restoration.
Instagram: @jethrojamesbronner
Patreon: / jethrobronner
#ClassicCars #AlfaRomeo #Restoration
The quality of the film-making here is excellent; the cinematography, the choice of music, the calm professional voice over, the editing. Seriously, this is really good stuff!
Wow, thank you!
easily the most enjoyable around, bravissimo!
Absolutely. I am sure there are plenty of big budget production "shows" that are envious of the quality shown here. Please keep this up Jethro!
Yep. Jethro's a breath of fresh air. Calm soothing videography without the nerve shattering shred metal noise and pseudo macho bs other channels try to force down our throats.
“Nothings ever done, nothings ever perfect, nothing lasts forever”… brilliant!
This is why I prefer plastic cars! Great work :)
Maybe my next project should be a Trabant? Or a Corvette? Same thing right?
@@JethroBronner Lotus Elan/Europa. Fantastic cars.
That's how your shop looks like mine. With fiberglass dust everywhere.
Oh man, I would love to see you work on a 105
Its not Finger painting though....
From another Alfa enthusiast, you have fine working skills. No shortcuts
Thank you! I really appreciate that.
Maybe not 100% perfection, but 100% satisfaction every time you open and close the boot lid.
Yeah it will be a good feeling to see this part painted and looking good on the car.
Perfect blend of voice and just the silence of you working. Great work, Jethro.
Thanks!
It's great that your attention to detail makes the Alfa better than OEM. 👍
Maybe not better than factory, but better than it was, that's all I hope for.
I am really enjoying this series, giving me some inspiration to get back to my project.
There is nothing else quite like this. Just wonderful.
Thank you.
"see you next week"?? Ouuuhhhh can't wait!
Great job Jethro
I'm trying to do more frequent videos at the moment.
The two pieces being properly painted before assembly unlike the factory. You’ll probably never have rust problems again.
Well I can only hope so. I think if Alfa SA spent just an hour priming stuff before assembly half the rust issues on these cars wouldn't be a thing.
I cant agree with you more. Nothing is perfect and trying to make it perfect can become a real pita. I like the balance you've struck here.
I think it’s important to maintain balance and continue moving forward with a project like this.
@@JethroBronner I have the problem of getting totally drawn into what I am doing, albeit down the wrong path. THAT is why I Love your videos, you dont get bogged down.
Nice final comment - Nothing's ever done, nothings ever perfect, and nothing lasts forever - Amen brother
As always. A pleasure to watch. Your meticulous attention to detail and obvious love of your craft and the vehicles is truly inspiring.
Patience of a saint.
Great work as usual. Love these old Alfas, wish there were more around.
You and me both! It's a shame so many of them were scrapped over the years.
Might be time to look into learning TIG welding. With the metal getting so thin and delicate a tig will give you more flexibility to weld with less peripheral damages and localize the heat more. Also clamp on aluminum blocks on the other side you are welding so it will be your heat sink and suck up the heat so it will not migrate outwards too much.
True TIG is better than MIG, but it's a much harder art to master.
I need a new machine for sure. I'd love to get a little Eastwood welder or something similar. I've just about had it with this unit.
I sure know how har it could be. I transitioned from mig to tig and has been a rough road. But now doing good. Good source on how is mr tigtime on YT
I prefer Miller. Of all them I used miller was for me more forgiving.
Everlast is the next one that is doing good with a lower price.
Funny I was going to suggest the same thing! I got a TIG torch to go with my Arc welder, so I could try scratch TIG. I was surprised/pleased at the early results, just needs more practice. But, I didn't realise TIG used different gas to my MIG welder, so that was a small unexpected expense! Trevs Blog has lots of good TIG welding tips.
What a beautiful entertaining production, says the viewer.
I had taken the same decisions, says the restorer.
Hell, this looks cool, I have to try that, says the filmmaker.
Thank you very much!
Why only a few years? This is good for the next 40 years!
Looks good. Thanks for the video
Well we'll see!
Looking great mate. It is amazing how much time it takes to tackle of those little rust areas, but it is worth while and I think that repair should last a very long time.
I sure hope it lasts. But I do think this, and the doors will probably have rust issues at some point in the future, especially considering the way I intend to use this car.
@@JethroBronner my two favorite alfa downunders! Yeah!
@@JethroBronner They won't last forever, but at least you have extended the life of those original panels as long as possible.
@@AM4project I suppose South Africa is technically “down under” too.
@@JethroBronner yup that was my thought 😀
I enjoy these videos so much that instead of watching them twice, I watch them in slow motion!
I'll just have to make twice as many videos then.
@@JethroBronner There are for some of us (me) no chance of ever doing a project such as the one you are doing.
To participate , even as spectators, we live out our dreams in your project. Do not underestimate the value of your videos.
I personally would want to thank you.
I used marine epoxy fairing compound and epoxy primer on a similarly crusty 1969 GTV. I then painted it with Imron LP. It really helped to stabilize the decay.
I'd have welded from the other side and put a flattened and bent bit of copper pipe behind the weld. It prevents blowing through and minimises the amount of grinder needed on the side you clamp it to. Costs pennies to replace and it much easier to get to shape than solid copper flat bar.
You can use a chunk of copper under the part your welding to help suck the heat out.
That's a great tip.
Here in Australia, I use Ranex Rustbuster brand rust treatment. It's 30% H3PO4 and looks like it's similar to what you use. You have done all the right steps in preparation, for it's application. It also works well when rubbed into pitted metal with a SS wire brush. In future I'll use your extra treatments before painting. Love your work, thanks for the tips.
Good to see someone getting things done instead of maybe perfect! Nice Berlina btw
Thanks! Yes done is better than perfect if perfect never gets done.
your doing a great job ! that being said get some copper bar ad clamp it to the edge it will act as a heat sink and steel wont stick to it. good luck
Thanks for the tip!
Better finished well enough, than never started.
Well done!
Exactly!
I laughed when you looked at the front and then started working on the boot lid - your accurate filming and the work you did on what looked like a catastrophic boot lid produced a fabulous outcome so really well done 👍 and thanks for sharing the journey 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it, but now I've run out of excuses to get to work on the front it. So that's will be coming up soon.
Excellent as always! Thank you!
Thanks again!
Well done my friend !! That s the way to do it.
May I suggest you get a small oxy acetylene set, it is great for precision welding of thin/rusty metal, with the additional bonus of being able to braze or silver solder, also as a source of heating steel to soften and bend complex shapes
Great suggestion! It's definitely on my list of tools to buy.
Jethro, your attention to detail is what makes your channel so good. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks so much!
dremel meets alfa, great job on such a used by part, love it
Thanks!
Jethro, great stuff. From a previous '74 GTV owner in Southern California.
Thanks! SoCal sure is the right part of the world to own an Alfa!
Excellent job ...For Now ! Great episode..
Thank you!
Cant wait for ep.5 :)
'nothing is ever done , nothing is ever perfect and nothing lasts for ever ...' how beautifull ...
Well done JB . Yes $1,000 Canadian for a new trunk lid is a bit over the top . 🇨🇦
Especially when I have parts of the car that really need the money, like the dashboard.
Pretty good job! Looks better than it did and will get you down the road till you can get that aluminum lid.👍
Exactly!
Excellent in detail job !
Thank you!
Always a good evening when Jethro posts!
I re-watch any of your films for inspiration and motivation anytime I can't get myself to doing something even so simple as to refreshing chipped off paint on a strut bar on my Alfa. Congratulations on great metalworking skills, filmmaking and overall thank you for all the amazing content! Greetings from Poland, see you soon and off to the garage now!
Wow, thank you!
Great work man.
Maybe dial that wire feed up just a whisker.
Your attention to detail is amazing. I really appreciate your passion and dedication to your work. I always look forward to your videos. Keep up the amazing work. After watching this video. I remembered, I considered buying one of these cars in the early 2000s they were around R20k for a neat model. That's just fiction now.
Thank you so much 😀 Yeah those days are over. I managed to get all my cars pretty cheap but I don't think I'll ever see another R35k GTV.
think that goes for most RWD Alfa's...
got an 1986 GTV2.0 "Turbo" with original Zender bodykit from 86 on it, it's placed on the barn for a future when i can afford to fix it up...
bought this in 2001 and gave two "crates" of beer (24 bottles per crate) for it.
last time i saw the prices for the 116 GTV's here in Norway they where close to 100k NOK for a 2.0 (11600 USD)
Hi Jethro, I love your content. Please stay safe as we keep seeing awful things on the news about what is going on in South Africa.
Yeah it's a pretty crazy place to live these days.
Beautiful work
Thank you very much!
Very lovely video! If your thinking about buying a TIG welder, if possible try and find an AC/DC welder so you can do aluminium as well! Thanks for the video!
Great point!, I'd love to learn to weld aluminium.
@@JethroBronner you'll be surprised how handy it is to have! Currently restoring a Austin Metro 1.3s and had to do some welding on one of the aluminium gear box cooling fins.
Brilliant work.
Thanks!
Great to see that there is another vision of repairing a car. I do it the same way. Many cars are 'over restored', almost better than new, and also far too expensive. Who dares to drive such a car so the car almost never gets on the road again. You're honest and plan to use it as a daily right? Like the Giulia? I understand and this video gives me confidence to restart my own project. Thanks for that Jethro!
Got hooked watching this series, can’t wait to see the rest 😉. Also, the pig is my favorite car 🚗
Jethro .. good to see you back. I'm feeling your pain for sure. But I'm glad to see that the process continues on the GTV. Somehow I know that this will come out good...Hang in there..
It will all be worth it in the end.
That's what we call restauration! Great job as always
Yes! Thank you!
Another beautifully crafted video Jethro. A real pleasure to watch. Sensible approach to the boot lid and nicely done fella 🙂
Thank you! Yes sensible is the way to go, can't go throwing 600 Euros at every problem that pops up.
You should look into getting a TIG welder for thin sheet metal welding. Also, please don't use the cutoff wheel as grinding wheel. You're just asking for the disk to break apart.
Good job Jethro!
Thanks!
Ooooh when the frame popped out that was so satisfying it must have felt like the world for you after so much work XD
Your skill keeps surprising me, it's a pleasure to watch this beat-up GTV coming back to life!
What about that nice green Berlina you got there, though?
The Berlina is a lovely car but unfortunately it's not mine. I just had it in my shop for a few months. It belongs to a friend. I think I will do a video of it at the next Cars and Coffee event here.
@@JethroBronner I look forward to see that then :) Thank you!
Great to see you back producing content! Looking forward to hearing your excuses as to why you shouldn't tackle the front end.
Oh I've found a great excuse
Thanks again for another great video! Nice work!
My pleasure!
I would add some seamsealer between the skin and the structure to keep it from rattling. Be sure to leave some gaps for ventilation. And don‘t be so pessimistic about the trunk lid. Spray the inside with Fluid Film after the car is painted and you never have to worry about it again.
Yeah, spray something oily like that inside every year and it will basically live forever.
I'm going to inject some rubber between the two parts after it's all primed, that's how the factory sorted out the vibration on the hood. I'm going to try some chainsaw blade oil as a rust preventative, I can spray that right into the corners of this part, and it will stay where I spray it.
I think you did very well.
well done ...again. Make me think to repair a rotten lower door section of my opel kadett same way ...cheers
Over here in the Colonies(America) we use the Glass Bead Blasting method. If you have access to the glass bead media you could set up a bit of a Hut outside your building and use the syphon method to blast with. Once you've done this you will be mystified by the results. I once did a complete Vespa restoration and luckily the scooter body would fit into our cabinet at my work!----Mikey, Belfair, USA
I've used that for cleaning aluminium, but I tend to use a harder silica sand for getting rust out of steel. I probably should have used that on this bootlid.
Lovely video again!
Thanks again!
Why not panel bond the skin first and then selectively as needed? Most bonding adhesives allow for welding prior to full cure with a 90 minute open time to complete the re-skinning work. The panel bond epoxy will strengthen the weakened frame and provide excellent rust protection. 3M products have worked well for me in the past
Your attention to detail is the stuff of legends Jethro! I'd replaced the boot lid and called it good..lol. Since you'll probably hit 40k by this video, Congrats on another milestone.
Thank you! Yeah 40k seems like a big number. I'm going to try do weekly videos for a while and see how the channel goes.
in excited to see the progress in every episode , good work so far mate
Thank you!
Looks like a good job to me Jethro - now onto the front :-o
Yeah, the real challenge!
Nice job, Jethro. How about a tour of that blue Berlina, arguably my favourite of all the Alfas I owned...
That's a lovely car, but it's not mine. It's gone off to its owner now. Maybe I'll do a cars and coffee video and I can show it there.
Great work
Thanks!
Awesome video !
Thanks!
When I paint my artwork, I use my fingers the same way to stabilize my hand
great job
NICE ONE!
Goggles, please! Your specs are not enough. Great to see new progress. Glad to see you accepting the rust. There comes a time when you just have to make your peace with it - and go for stabilising it instead, i.e. rust conversion and encapsulation, especially in those unpainted cavities.
And, a safety guard on your grinder, please. No heroics!
@@jamesdecross1035 first thing I remove when I buy a new grinder. Only adults should use these sorts of tools
40k Subscribers! Nice job :) Great video today too. Thanks
🎉 Thanks! Yeah it's a big milestone! Bring on 50k!
If I can make a small suggestion, try turning the amps and the wire speed down slightly on the welder when it comes to thin metal. It will make burning holes a little less and give you a bit more control of how much metal is deposited onto the work piece.
Thanks for the tip. I find my welder is a little hard to dial in, as the wire speed is tied into the amps, and the voltage is independently controlled.
Nice job
Great work on the trunk! I have one that is even worse than yours, and I am considering splitting it and putting it in an electrolytic rust conversion bath before I start welding, in theory, it should add a tiny bit of metal back instead of removing metal during abrasive rust removal.
You can also use a bath of some mild acid. Some peopel use molasses and water. Or vinegar.. Basically any acid that's cheap and not too strong it woudl also dissolve metal.
never seen anyone use or show a profile gauge like that while doing body fab - that must be invaluable!
This was incredibly satisfying. Chapeau
Thank you!
Make sure to add this video to the playlist as well! People miss it, or think it isn't out yet
Love your videos. Really want to do more filming but have decided to get my first car on the road but you are my inspiration to be honest. I watched your video on keeping the Alfa in bare metal a long time ago and just really enjoy the process of restoring cars now. Hope one day my videos will be up to this standard. When I have more time on my hands! Also I would recommend a tig welder for invisible repairs. Recently got one and on thin bodywork I love it. Much more adjustability with post and pre flow, amperage at different times etc. Just something to think about. Can’t wait for the next vid!
Is there any chance you could do a behind the scenes of making a video at some point?
I'm going to get my hands on a TIG welder before I start my next project for sure. BTS is quite dull for my filmmaking process.
@@JethroBronner awesome looking forward to the tig welding then 👍🏼
Perfect, i have the same job planned next week. One tip: You definitely need to do something about your welding. Don’t know if it is the welder or just setting but for sure its not going well. Succes with you hobby!
Yeah the welds in this video were not great. I think a lot of it was due to welding one contaminated steel. It's usually much better than this.
@@JethroBronner Considering the material you were working with the welding looked good to me. So easy to blow holes in thin pitted steel. Might be worth experimenting with TIG I believe it’s a little more forgiving. The Austin Healey channel uses it to good effect.
not long ago I learned about using a copper backer where I can it make a big difference on a good clean weld. Iam employing it on my TR3 build.
I'll give that a go on my next set of welds.
Patience of a saint 👏
Is there a Patron Saint of Rusty Boot Lids?
That MIG machine sounds like the wire feed is jamming somewhere or there's not enough tension on the feed roller. You can hear by the extended delay between the gas starting and the first strike, it also seems to weld a bit stop start which could also be from the feed. How do I know... I had that on my MIG, went on for a while and made welding a real pita, worked great once I sorted it out, despite being a pretty budget machine.
I've tried to get this thing to be as good as I can, but it's just such a difficult machine. I had to modify the roller because even at full adjustment the wire would slip. It's a Chinese machine and it's just a pain.
@@JethroBronner it's time to get a decent one then because you can't weld neatly and accurately with a problematic wire feed and it takes away the joy of welding, nothing better than a neat seam. Also a tip for if you don't have a spot welder, like for the seam on the boot lid, you can mimic a spot weld by drilling around a 7mm hole through just one sheet of metal in the seam and then fill that hole with a weld(which then welds the 2 sheets together) and then grind it flat, you essentially then have a neat DIY spot weld.👍
This video shows it nicely th-cam.com/video/388I5kqKlgo/w-d-xo.html
@@JethroBronner this hurts your welding more than you know - need tools to work as designed for them to work sadly. Chinese, American wherever stuff is built, it at least needs to function properly for anything to come out like it should. Good luck with the replacement/repair.
@@JethroBronner The biggest thing your struggling with is the inconsistent or slow wire feed, not just the start up but I can hear it during your actual weld more than anything - your not getting enough wire during your welding and its sputtering hardcore. You're not gonna regret the $ spent on something better, the Eastwood should be miles better for you
Having just spent 1200 hrs welding a very tired spider I can maybe help. Your struggling with MIG welding due to the acid / paint prep not so much because its dirty metal. I make a point of not adding any surface treatment to the weld points. Also hold the torch at 90 deg to the surface for this type of work (spot/plug) and close to the surface with the amps up one notch.
Oh I have TIG as well and its hopeless on anything other than pristine metal , I only use it as a last resort now.
Thanks for the pointers. At the end of the day, as ugly as these welds looked I got the desired result, which is what really matters. Hopefully one day I'll upgrade my equipment and have better luck with this sort of work.
@@JethroBronner My old boss used to say its results not process and your getting the results so dont beat yourself up its what grinders are for.
Superb as always!
Thanks again!
Very nice work. I also didn't know you have a Berlina.
Haha I don’t!
Great work as always thanks for your videos.
Thanks again!
Whatttttttt!! Another video so soon!?!? Thank you master!
Hope you enjoyed it!
Love these videos. Hopefully I'll be able to own one someday!
Thank you! Yes they are wonderful cars. A GTV is a great little car to own, hopefully soon you can find one for yourself.
You should be well proud of that.
Thanks, yes I think it's a good job that will last. I'm glad I decided to try save this part.
As always great vid! Could it be that your welding settings are pushing a bit too much steel wire? I'm no pro but my welds on thin steel seem a but less bulgy
Thank you! I purposely had the wire speed a little high. It's easier to grind down a tall weld, than filling in a burn-through.
Well done, it's not perfect but it`s a hundred percent better that it was. Regards
Lovely, as always :)
Thank you!
you could use a set of panel splitting tools
This is why I much prefer my Toyota!
My Toyota doesn't have a boot lid either