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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ค. 2016
- This video covers the re-installation of the E46 Rear Subframe and all of the rear suspension components. This work is performed just after replacing the Subframe and differential bushings and the installation of the Subframe/chassis reinforcement kit by Turner Motorsports.
Subframe Removal Steps (PDF): bit.ly/291rEoX
Getting ready to this repair at my home. Been watching/reading a lot about this DIY repair for the past 3 weeks. This is by far the most detailed DIY. Thank you for taking the time to put this together. It has helped me a lot.
Glad you found the series useful. It is a time consuming repair but relatively straight forward. Cheers!
My Son recently bought a 2000BMW 328i and it had the exact same problem as yours. The Drivers side sub-frame mount tore right out. After doing a little research and finding your step by step videos for removal, repairs and re-assembly it made this pretty big job do-able. Excellent videos! Thank you very much my friend for these videos, your paper work/torque specs, step by step procedures that you've supplied. It is and was very much appreciated. His car is now fully repaired.
This is such a great response! I am so glad that you were able to fix your issues as well. The entire reason that I made this series ( and all of my videos) are to illustrate what it takes to fix or do something so that others can determine if it is something they can take on (UCanDoIt2). These are fantastic cars and easy to work on. At 16 years old, you have to expect things to need repair. Congratulations on fixing this yourself! Hope your son enjoys this car, they are a lot of fun! In the last hours of 2016, you just made my year and the effort to share this series just made it all worth it. THANK YOU!
The inner and outer bolts of the upper and lower control arms are supposed to be torqued at ride height, otherwise you'll get suspension binding and pre-mature wear on those bushings. It can be a challenge to torque the inners at right height with the diff reinstalled. Otherwise, this job is a labor of love in my opinion because of the time it takes and the reality of what a shop would need to charge. I was lucky and didn't have any subframe cracking, but was prepared to hire a mobile welder to come to house and pay them to do it...of course after removing the fuel tank and fully preparing the areas to bare metal to save from paying someone else to do it. You do this on a 15-20+ year old BMW because you love the car, can't justify paying several thousands to a shop to do it and/or you like a challenge. All of the above for me and your video series convinced me I could do it too. Thank you!
At the time that I did this work, I believe the quotes for doing this work was between $2500-$3000. The car is not worth that... So yes you are correct it is a labor of love and you do it because you love the car. They are a blast.
I freaked the heck out when this exact same issue happened to me, i had no idea what to do, my precious e46 totalled. After watching this series and doing research, i can’t tell you enough much much you put my heart at ease, that this was possible to fix myself without paying thousands in repair. Thank you so very much for your video, it’s so greatly appreciated, never take it down!
Awesome and thanks for the feedback. I was hoping by showing all the step that some others would either realize they could tackle it too, or it was a little over their head. Cheers and best of luck with yours.
I just recently did mine a week ago. a 2000 323i manual RWD. previous owner sold me the car without telling me what that clunk and squeak noise was. I drove the car like that for about 9 months or so and this series really gave me the motivation on completing this scary task that I said "I'll eventually do it" I got to say I did cheat a lot though lol. I just moved the subframe a little bit to make clearance for grinding and welding my carrier panel back on and added metal for reinforcement. I did this outside in the span of 7 hours start from finish. One day when I have a garage and stuff I'll do it properly with reinforcement plates. But even the way I have it know will last and be really strong for years to come. Thank You so much with this series. I still watch it time to time because it is entertaining to see it happen.❤️
Happy you were able to “fix” yours. Bottom line is to get that section supported and it sounds like you have done that. This is one of those repairs that would not be worth paying a repair shop to fix due to the expense. Glad you enjoyed the series and took the steps to secure yours. Cheers. Mike!
referring to this video already for the 3rd time to get proper torque specs. already did removal of subframe 2 times and now replacing the diff. much appreciate for the proper instructions.
Awesome! Glad you have found it useful... Cheers... Mike!!
finishing up my subframe, body reinforcement job...insane labor. I am installing rogue engineering rear lower control arms...had to grind the inserts to fit in that top attachment hole. got the diff attached to the subframe and will attempt to reinstall the entire shabang in one piece...super heavy when it's all unified.
Very labor intensive indeed. I believe I heard that some shops charge $2500-$3000 for this. Cheers and congrats.... you're almost at the finish line!!!
So helpful we finally diagnosed and fixed the problem with my e46 318i. Thank you so much
Kudos to your son he is very passionate about it and very patience salute by working like a pro godbless both of you
Thank you for the great feedback! He was a champ during this repair.
Man that’s how my car is at the moment but I’ve bought the reinforcement plate kit and soon it’ll be fixed thanks to you I now know how to get it done faster and I won’t have to worry about figuring it out by myself…excellent video man
Excellent! Glad it helped you get a vision for the project. Not too difficult but takes some patience. Cheers and best of luck with yours! Mike.
Well done guys! That moment you detected the defect, took the necessary steps and tightened the wheel bolts back in must have been the best feeling....it´s worth all the effort and sweat when you succeed at last....Greetings from Germany! Keep it up dudes!!
Thank you Benny! We still look back at how much work this was and celebrate our success. Cheers to you!
Tonight I managed to get the subframe as well as the differential back in just after having drilled out and removed the old bushings from it. Puuuh! That was a mess especially since I didn´t have the right equipment to do it the quick way and was on my own. However it looks good now and I will let you know on the outcome once done...
Watched whole series. Great job guys.
Your mini series was on point. Best one that I have come a crossed yet. One hell of a father son project and the videography/editing was on point. Thank you for putting the bolt/torque specs in there to.
I appreciate the compliment! My son and I still occasionally talk about this. One of those take your time, keep your head down, get it done projects. One of my favorite parts is the editing. Cheers!!!!!
My thud isn't as bad as yours was so I'm hoping I won't have such large repairs to do on mine in the near future, am thinking of going poly bushes for ease of installation seeing as I don't have a bush press and the poly should last slot longer.
Loved watching these videos though, so much information and it's put my mind at ease about doing it at home on the drive with basic tools ✌️
I'm doing this to my car right now. You have much more patience than me. My neighbors now know my full vocabulary of cuss words.
Wipsplash Too funny!!! Only a select few of us can appreciate and concur with your primal screams! Stay with it!!!!!!!
I followed all the steps you mentioned in the PDF. It took me totally 11 hours to complete the job. Great videos and clear explanation. I planned a wheel alignment, because I think putting the alignment on the same place will not work anymore because of all components were taken apart. The most challenge part for me was to insert the two differential bushings as there is no place to hold the iron ring (inner side of the frame). I broke two threaded rods during this process (but I was prepared, so had 4 in total :) ). Thanks for sharing.
That is awesome! Congrats on taking on the challenge. Congrats on saving yourself a bunch of money!!!!
That is an awsome piece of work without a lift. I have to replace the rear differential mounting bushing on my 325, found your video and couldn't stop watching. I was thinking about changing all the bushings, but I think my car would be out of service for a month :)
Cool Beans!! It was a very cool and involved project. Best of luck with yours! Just remember to be patient...
Much respect very difficult job and you guys handled it like pros. Thank you for sharing incredibly helpful and informative!
I appreciate the feedback! I will share it with my son. He occasionally still comments on how he feels accomplished after having finished the project. I could not ask for anything more. Thank you again!
agree, I am currently doing this job and I use this video for reference. much appreciate!
i took my time watching your videos, i have a e36 1995 and im having the same issue, i have very good knowledge in cars, this will be a task for me, my car makes that same noise when i shift from first to second and it got louder, i will jack it up and see, i hope that i dont have a crack since i dont have a welding machine, you really detailed your work!!!! thanks so much, now i know what im dealing with..
Great job doing this under the car like that, respect!
Thank you!!!
I've replaced some of the bushings at the front of my E46. I've wondered about the back. I'm impressed with the incredible job y'all did there and the quality of the video/audio. It looks like it might have been a 10.5 out of 10! Makes me think I could do it, too. Thanks for sharing your hard work; it looks like you and your son worked well together.
Yea... It was pretty difficult or more appropriate, time consuming. We appropriately set our expectations that we would work on it little at a time and not let it get us frustrated. Getting the old bushings out of the sub frame was a bear!!!!!!! It was a great father / son project and we just kept it real!!! Thanks for the feedback!
U guys are AWESOME for showing me this. Thank you. I've learned a lot.
Nice work. Lots of pieces and parts to keep track of with that job!
Thanks John! Thank goodness for Free Digital Photography!
Really enjoyed all 4 videos even though I don't own an E46 (E39 guy). You're an awesome dad!
Thank you very much for the kind words!!!!!!!! I bet you will find that many of the parts and configurations are not too different on an E39 other than shapes and sizes. It is all really cool how this thing works! THANK YOU !!!!!!!
Thanks for the video along with torque specs. Very helpful.
Thank you a lot for the Video series and the Torque specs🔥✌️
Great video series, thanks for posting them. My car isn't that bad but I am planning on taking a week from work to give myself planty of time to complete this job.... Just one of many on this car!
Good luck and have fun with your repairs!!! Cheers and thanks for the feedback!
Good walk through of the job! As mentioned in other video-comment I did this job myself on my E46, and it is a rather big undertaking.. Great work!! I removed everything underneath the car including the gas tank since my reinforcement-plates was substantially larger (Reddish motorsport UK). I did guido, center bearing, motor and transmission-mounts and everything in the gear stick mechanism as well and also front bushings and full race spec coilovers.. It handles like a champ and feels like a new car.
It must be wonderful to have a son who shares your interest in cars and to work together..
Thumbs up to you both!!!
(The E92 335i subframe bushings are crap from factory and needs to be replaced and is a bit tricky...larger subframe)
Excellent! Good to know on the E92 as the son that originally owned this car and did this work sold this car to his brother and now owns a 07 E92 335i. Just did the Water Pump and Thermostat on it. Very tight but not difficult. Cheers!!!!!
The N-engines are a hustle.. Tight.. My daily, an E91 325i N53, is getting all new bushes, exactly ALL bushings, and the subframe is a total drag. Good luck with the N54, it is a gem of an engine...
I dont usualy comment on youtube or social media, but you just solve my problem....all guys that i ask about my problem did not know it, now i have to prepare myself for a big repair hahaha. thank you
Stefan Traian Petre glad the series was helpful. Just be patient.
Excellent videos, very informative thank you.
Great video, very informational!
Thank you very much! This mean a lot coming from your well respected company! Love my Eastwood 135 MIG welder!
Beautiful Work..
fantastic.. how does this not have more views
i bought a 325i working at a bmw dealership knowing about this issue. hope i never have to do mine but thought i'd be proactive and know how to if that day comes. i enjoyed the awesome camera angles, clear descriptions step by step and how easy you make it look ;] thanks!
Aaron, I really appreciate your kind words. Hope this provides a good enough overview of the steps that others could decide if they want to tackle it. A local shop quoted $2400, and we did it for something less than $400. These E46s are fantastic cars and are easy to work on. Thank you again! Have fun with yours!!!!!!
That's a really useful video- thanks for all the advice. I'm going to get on with doing mine now:)
Howard Woolley sounds great! Thanks for watching and have fun with yours!!!!
Sweet video given me the confidence to get on with it cheers 👍
HighFocusFPV Just remember to be patient. You can save lots of money if you are so inclined. Cheers and enjoy!
That pesky fire alarm beeping had me thinking my batteries were low 😏 great video series👌
Sorry about that alarm. It eats batteries and so I have recently replaced the whole unit. It has drawn some very funny comments. Cheers and thanks for watching!!!!!
Thank you so much for this video 👍👍
Great video man! I've been hearing some clunk coming front he back of my e46 328i and I am almost sure its the diff mountings that have failed, cause as I can hear the noise quite loud under hard acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear. At least now I know it can be DIY-ed with some patience. Btw, I would he zapped the bushings out and back in with the impact, especially the rubber ones, as there is nothing that can really go wrong wit that. Still, quality material presented on your behalf! Thanks!
All say... is that those bushings are very hard to get off! :) Maybe an impact on the outer rim might work. It would not work if applying it against the inner metal part as the rubber would absorb all the impact. Thank you for the feedback. I strongly feel that all of this "Issue" is based on those three spot welds breaking loose (start there). After that it is all about how soon you catch it as to how much additional damage is done. Cheers!
absoluteley fantastic job.
Thank you!!!!! We felt very accomplished when it was all back together.
Another great vid!
Hard to get some really good shots when we are only at the height of the jack stands. But that is what most DIY guys will face. Thanks for the feedback and for watching.
great video..very detailed and thorough.
Thank you Michael. We filmed it all, so it only made sense to include as much as possible. Hopefully it will help others see the scope of the project. I appreciate you taking the time to provide your feedback.
Very helpful video😆👍 great job!
Glad you enjoyed the series! Cheers!
You guys rock!
Thank you 🙏🏻 great job!
Glad you enjoyed it!!!!
Nice job. 🇨🇦
Great work, excellent video! Very difficult job especially on floor on axle stands.Nice to see your boy helping you, I have a son very similar age, he used to help me a lot but now bad attitude. I removed diff yesterday to put new lower camber arms. Very difficult to bench press and bolt up diff on my own! Could have done with your boy to help me..lol! Presently taking ibuprofen for all aches in neck shoulders and back.
I managed to snap a bolt on the small heatshield and considering leaving it off is this advisable? Thanks fella!
Sounds like you are tackling it well. Take your time! Once complete it is very rewarding. We still talk about when we did ours. Yea, those heat shields don't require much fastening. Cheers!
awesome diy video.
Thank you Walter!!!! Best of luck with your next project!!!
I admire you, to have balls to do that, i have e46 330d and im afraid to look down if it`s cracken. Still good work. Respect!!
All I know is that I could not screw it up any more than what it was!!!! Also, we had a spare car so the downtime was not an issue. LMAO at your comment! Cheers!
Well i`ll bet it drives like a new one now. Cheers to you too !
This really changed the feel of accelerating through the gears. We also had a front lower control arm bushing issue that between the to fixes... Yes very impressive drive now.
ok very good illustration ! Would like to See a road teat and conclude repair example ! Thx !!!
Veryyyy helpfull thanks.
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مرحبا بك
Great videos. An packed with info for this mean job. How many days did it take you? As full days. As was planning on doing my e46 over 9 days, thinking it’s do able or not.
It tool us a little over 2 weeks.... BUT most of that was a couple hours on some nights. Probably have 25-30 hours in it. BUT, we were not in a rush. Setting up the camera for all the shots consumed a bunch of time. To do it again, it would take me 4 days. Just be patient. Best wishes!
Increddible job guys. And helpfull to. Respect trom Holland.
It is crazy to me to think that someone in Holland is watching our videos. I greatly appreciate your message and thanks for the feedback. Good luck with your future projects!!!! And again, Thanks!
It was a real pleasure and inspiration watching the video. I ll carry on working my e46.
Not just Holland, Pakistan too! Amazing video! I have a 2000 323ci manual. I just put some Powerflex bushes on all 3 subframe mounts, and the 3 diff bushings too along with this reinforcement plate off ebay. The thump is still there. Happens every time I release clutch slightly faster than dead slow in first gear or second. I'm trying to assess whether the mechanic messed up somewhere down the line or I need to replace something else. sigh*
Tickled that I am reaching Pakistan as well!!!!! Have you installed the Reinforcement Kit yet? After completing this 4 part video series, I later thought of another possible Thump. In Part 3 @ 14:38, I show 3 factory spot welds that failed. I believe those 3 welds broke first which started the original thumping sound and that slowly got worst and eventually caused the complete tear out of the chassis metal. Yours may just be at the point where the 3 spot weld have failed causing the noise. It would be very apparent when you cut the window (Part 3) and correcting those welds is paramount. Many thanks for watching!!! I love these cars. They are fun to work on and being 16 years old I don't mind the few issues that we are having.
Thank you for the feedback! Ok so I don't think I spotted any failed spot welds. What happened was, I ordered a reinforcement plate from eBay (about $70), not the Turner one, and installed it when I was doing the 4 power flex subframe mounts. I also changed the 3 differential bushings that may have also been the culprit. My mechanic did all the work, but I inspected when the subframe was off, and there was a small notorious crack in the chassis where it folds (lots of people online suggest that's where the cracking starts). That was the only crack I say. Didn't see any damaged welds. Hence, just treated that, welded plates, bushes, etc. The thump changed, now it's very consistent, slip into first, release clutch and thud. Release super slow and no thud/thump. Mechanics here are pretty crap so perhaps he messed up along the way. The car runs great, puts power down perfectly, but that thump's always there. He now suggests there's play in the rear driver side axle (my car is a UK import Right Hand Drive) which is causing the thump. Living with it for now.
Super 👍
Thank you so much for this video, is great, I wil do on my X3 e83. I can see that you use a lot of Harbor Freight tools ... What is your experience with them?
Thanks for the compliment! I do like HF tools, but you have to realize that they are not the highest in quality. If I need a more precision tool or one that need to withstand a beating, I will typically purchase Craftsman. I constantly get the coupons from HF and will purchase in advance tools that I will need down the road at a great discount. Always using the discounts that they provide. 6 months ago, I purchased a Media Blasting cabinet that I will soon be using on a CJ7 project. Haven't used it yet, but I got it at a steal! Good luck with your project. Take your time if you can afford to have the car down for a length of time. My son and I feel that it was a very rewarding project. Thanks again!
Very detailed DIY i will be doing my diff bushings soon. I saw you had to cut your rear bushing but what tool did you use on the front 2 bushings?
I found the easiest way to remove these bushings it to use a drill and cut as many holes as you can through the rubber bushing part. Then I used a a hacksaw or chisel to remove rubber and break the inner sleeve free. Sometimes we could beat out the outer sleeve, sometime we had to cut through it then beat it out. It is a slow process. Take your time.
Helpful
Glad it helped
Awesome work guys! Hey, do you put the wheels like extra security measures underneath the car? i use to do it because i don´t trust the jack stands, be careful guys!
We did not but that is a great idea. I had a relative tragically hurt under a car and so that is always on my mind. We use good jack stands and chalk any tires on the ground. Plus we give it the good "Shake Test" before proceeding. It always pays to take the extra time to think Safety. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your projects!
Quality professional job there guys! Good editing skills too. How mucho would you charge me to do this to my 2004 330CI? It makes a rattling/ knocking sound when I accelerate. Seems to be coming from the rear underneath the car.
Texas Patriots Militia One million dollars!!!!! No, just kidding. Would not be interested in doing it again. Someone that does this repeatedly really needs a lift.
UCanDoIt2 hehehe do you accept checks?
Im so scared to face this problem...
I put 200 Nm into the front differential mounting bolts (That you said were 70ft lbs / 94 Nm)... oopsies! :]
i swear to you we just did this job in under 12 hours. 6 of that was welding. The welding is not something for a weekend warrior. we hired a welder fabricator. in Atlanta Moon Lite Welding services is the best there is. once we were done we found a mid-shaft bearing broken. not a big deal but if we would have pulled the heat sheild down we would have seen it. we did not totaly remove the axle assembly. we just lowered it enough to get to the sub-frame. DO NOT TRY AND WELD INTO THE EXISTING METAL. we welded a gusset plate to tge under and top side if the frame. pain in the a$$ !!
I have an issue when I put it on R then brake I hear a loud clunk "sometimes not every time" I checked the subframe and there's no crack on the floor pan ! I have 3 things are possibly bad 1 Driveshaft (CV joint to the diff ) 2 diff bushings 3 subframe bushings !!
Yes the three things that you mentioned could also cause noises and you should investigate them. Just because there are no cracks in the floor pan does not eliminate this as the issue. Mine was a catastrophic failure of the subframe mount BRACKET. The original Source of my issue (I believe), is the failure of "3 Little Spot Weld". Here is a link to the location in my video were I talk about the three spot welds... th-cam.com/video/xFh0255RQGg/w-d-xo.htmlm3s. This was the source of my issue and when it first happened, it was very hidden.I believe you are on the right track, and again the 3 items you listed or this bracket certainly could be your issue. Best of luck with your repair!!!!!!
UCanDoIt2 thank You so much Im doing this Job next week plus a new whole front end , I also heard that some guys had an issue in the front end that caused the rear end clunk , I'll post the updates when Im done for sure .
Awesome! Be patient with all the work. As far as front end goes, I have replaced Engine Mounts, which gave this car a smooth ride (you could feel the engine vibration), and Lower Control Arm rear side bushings (which removed some noises when braking.... common problem on these cars). All expected common wearable parts that need to be looked at. I have videos on these as well. Cheers!!!!!!
UCanDoIt2 engine and trans mounts are in the project as well , thank you.
Whats the reason you chose oem replacement bushings?
The Polyurethane replacements that many are using are too hard and too expensive. I believe they are doing it because they come in colors. This car sits on the ground and we do not expect anyone to climb underneath it. The OEM Style were reasonably priced (kit) and are softer. If they last another 15 years.... that will be 14 years longer than we plan to keep the car. Just overall the better option for us!!!! You may have other needs. Cheers!
Ok, understood. I replaced mine on my E36 then with PU from strongflex, they have a choice for slightly softer 80hsa. I believe the flex in the rubber will cause the jerking and that causes the metal fatigue... plus the pu stuff is easy to install and i never had a sqeak at all. I'd advice at least the diff bushing to be upgraded as that one puts a big load down. But i guess your right under normal circumstances oem style should hold for another 10 years .
How much would this even all cost? I think my bushings are going too. When I reverse I sometimes hear a DOINK noise and sometimes on 1st gear too
I believe we the bushings and metal bracket kits for the reinforcements was about $400. At the time, shops were charging $3000 - $3500 to do this work.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike 3000/3500!! More than my E46 is worth lol
Exactly!
why did you add spacer to the cross member?
Part of the Turner Motor Sports Reinforcement Kit are plates that get welded to the chassis at each of the 4 corners of the subframe. The outer 2 ends of the cross brace will "land" on the front two plates. Therefore the cross brace is lowered by the thickness of the plates. The Spacers that you mention (6:26) are to adjust the center two mounting point by the same thickness. So basically the cross brace has 4 mounting points and all four were spaced so that the geometry was maintained.
Great question and observation, By the way.... Cheers!
thank you for the detailed answer! (y)
can you explain the reason you marked the driveshafts?
Typically when to take apart any rotating assembly, it is wise to re-assemble them in the same alignment that they came apart. From what I read and other videos that I have seen on this a similar repairs, it is stated that you need to do this to maintain balance. It would be my technical opinion that BMW balanced all of these parts individually and at the factory, they are then simply put together and the balance is maintained. Personally, I do not think it is necessary, but I did not want to leave it out of the video and get criticized for it. It is easy to do and we did follow this during our build. Good luck with yours if you are planning to do this. Stay Patient!
And for the short answer... You mark it before taking it apart so that you can re-assemble it in the same orientation/relationship.
Thanks for the reply :) keep up the videos! Planning to do this myself in a month :)
What about Xi model
Not really sure. Mine is not an Xi model. I believe that is the AWD model. Most of the differences are found in the frontend. The overall approach would be the same. The weakness in the body chassis would be the same between both models.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks for you're time