Hi Ramy, to easily overcome your 3d printed mold vacuum sealing problem, simply bag the entire mold as in all around the mold just like if you were actually inserting the entire mold assembly into a traditional bag.
There is air inside 3d printed parts too, so the mold would implode due to it pulling air from the inside of it. Or at least i think that would happen.
@@lennartw.2219 no it won't...with 10% infill the PLA can take 34#/in2...vacuum bag only is 14#/in2. You do have to account for compression shrinkage at about 2% however.
Thats what I do. 8% infill, 0.6mm nozzle and 0.44mm layer hight. The moulds are extremely strong. I put them in a vacuum bag and go to arround 600mbar, works great.
This, absolutely! Really surprised to see Ramy skip this idea. I've bagged wings with pretty low density foam cores before and those don't crush, so I can't imagine there'd be any trouble with the printed molds crushing.
I love the mix of your use of tools and technology like 3D printing and CNC routing and all the incredibly skillful handwork, like cutting out control surfaces, windows, access panels, etc. You are truly an artist and it's inspiring!
Your 3d printed mold idea has opened up a new world for me. It is by far the easiest way to get accurate strong composite parts. I found the 3d printed molds just get crushed by a vacuum pump (unless you use high infill, which takes forever), So I use those clothing storage bags that you put under vacuum with a regular vacuum cleaner. You can buy xl bags and tape them together for large parts. This works really well for me.
Hi you could use wet layup and put the whole mould in a vacuum bag. Be carefull with the amount of vacuum you put on it. 100% vacuum could crush your mould. 30% vacuum is typically sufficient. You could also put in an extra thick piece of wood underneath your mould in the vacuum bag to prevent the mould from warping. I really enjoy the building video's! Keep them coming!
Your technique has improved exponentially with the carbon and fiberglass... I worked at Pan Am as a mechanic in their fiberglass and control surface overhaul shop in New York waayyyy back in the 1980’s and 90’s lol we were just starting to work on carbon fiber components from the Airbus A-300’s . Watching your videos is reigniting my desire to fly R/C again after a 20 year hiatus I purchased a flite test P47 and hopefully I can get to a point where I can scratch build some scale jets someday . Thanks for lighting this spark😁👍
It's very refreshing and pleasing to watch your excellent work and attention to details. It pains me when you put so much work into something and it turns out less than you wanted it to be. Great videos, I look forward to each of them.
Hi Ramy, Superb videos and outstanding craftsmanship. Maybe this can help in your vacuum molding. Of course a full bag is an option too. Even in fiber glass molds, made from a plug (a plug handcrafted, CNC carved, copy from original or other), there are sometimes pinholes left, that do not allow to generate one sided mold full vacuum (with tacky tape) and when you stop infusing resin, they generate a stream of bubbles that ruin your part while still on vacuum. I have seen as a solution, which is to cover/paint the back of the mold with one or two coats of cheap white wood glue. You can add a different water soluble pigment to each coat, to check for adequate covering. This layer has to extend eventually to the surface or lip where you glue the tacky tape. It is a rubbery layer that does not contribute with its own pinholes unless you do a bad covering job. This solves the problem completely on fiber glass molds, that have no cavities and have a single or multiple pinholes, that can not be discovered. Eventually an ultrasound leak detector might help but when the mold is under vacuum stress it becomes difficult because new arise. In your molds you have the internal cavities that have to be "emptied" first. This could be a very slow process if the pinholes are few and small. For that you could arrange on the lip of the mold (suction side) for an island that is connected to the internal cavities (designed at print time). That island would be surrounded by a tacky tape circle and from there you would pull vacuum too, to equalize pressure from the internal spaces or cavities. To be sure you get the internal cavities equalized with the rest of the mold, it might be wise to pull vacuum for halve an hour before proceeding to infuse resin. Maybe this is too much hassle, but you will still need, in case of a full bag, an efficient way of emptying the mold internal spaces. This will minimize the resin going into the pinholes and making the demolding more difficult. Thanks for your videos.
During this period of stay at home due to the pandemic, I keep watching your videos and waiting for the next one. Extraordinary work yours. Thanks for the videos.
Another option would be to vac form a thin HDPE skin over the mould surface first - still using your original method. That would get over the leaking issue and save having to strengthen the complete mould if putting the whole thing in a vac bag. Great build series BTW!
@@RamyRC You could put a solid board underneath or i have seen some guys so it your way with one piece on top but they stick it to the table top and not the mold.
@@RamyRC You need to use a 'vacuum-regulating valve' to reduce the pressure in the bag. You will still get the benefit of vacuum bagging without crushing your mold. We used to pull 'glass check' fixtures with cnc'd eps foam molds using less vacuum and the parts came out great.
Nobody: Really nobody: Ramy: let’s use 2x 400€ EDF‘s to secure 1€ Depron on the table 😂 Just joking, it’s an amazing job you did there!!! I can’t believe how high quality your builds are now. I’m so proud to see that!! 🥳
hello, again a great video from you. there are also many inspirations for me. but one question: you used presto spray primer beforehand. what did you use this time greeting
You could try cutting the moulds for the wings on your CNC, easycomposites in uk has some great mould materials for the cnc, the price isnt that much more then plastic for printing, time spent making them would be around the same considering less sanding if you manage to get a good CNC finishing pass on it with a good endmill, also shouldnt have any problems with parts releasing from the mould and the most important part you could vaccum bagg it or do resin infusion real easy and you could do multiple parts from the same mould.
I was thinking the same thing. Why bother with 3D printed molds when you have a CNC machine? It seems like it would be faster and there wouldn’t be much more finishing work.
Congrats Ramy! A good alternative to wax and PVA is to use a chemical sealer and semipermanent demoulder. Easycomposites S120 works great, always with a wipe, don’t use the spray, also Chemtrend MPP 712 and even Loktite’s Frekote fms, all of them are “magical” sealers. Then you can use a semipermanent demoulder, the one from Easycomposites works very well too. With this combination you keep a perfect surface and it is very easy to demold.
What I used to do when trying to get a vacuum: When searching for the leak use a doctor's stereoscope, cut the metal drum bit off the end so that only the headphone and the flexible tubing remains. Then, use the end of the tube which you just cut to listen for any leaks
Hi. I'm Brazilian and I'm a big fan of your channel here on TH-cam. I follow all of your videos. You are to be congratulated! I work at Embraer, the third largest aircraft manufacturer in the world. I would be very happy to see you making an E195-E2 from the E-jet family. A hug.
That Citation is going to look so awesome in the air and I bet it’s going to handle super smooth and be awfully quick. Awesome job so far ! Keep up the Great Work and Vids ! Stay and Play Safe !! 👊👍
ironical, we have a citation in for repaint at the minute. M-YSPC just bought from the USA. Keep up the fantastic work Ramy love every episode of every build x
Man Ramy, you come up with better techniques and ways to build them to an even better quality every episode! Your unreal man, would love your brain! ☺️👍
You have to put the mold completely inside the vacuum bag so it will not leak. There are vacuum film tubes you can make vacuum bag quickly out of. You just might need to attach a rigid board on the bottom of the mold so it will not warp under vacuum. You also might need to use more perimeter layers and more dens infill for the 3D printed mold so it will not flex or crack (it will cost a lot of filament thought and print time).
Ramy, Instead of just bagging one side, slide your whole mold into a bag that surrounds it and then just seal the end. Think of a loaf of bread in a plastic bag, only one end is open. That will get you around the porosity of the printed mold. It will also greatly reduce your need for the sealing tape. The way you can seal the end of the bag is to use a round tube that is split down the middle, wide enough to allow you to lay the bag onto the split and then snap a piece of round rod into the split, it must be a snap fit so that it creates a seal, that will seal the end of your bag. As stated, that should help get rid of the sealing tape and seal the porosity of the printed mold. I hope I explained it clearly and correctly so that you have a picture of how I mold things. It will also work with resin infusion. Infusion is the best way to go in most cases. Good luck and love the videos.
You could try to open the bottom of the molds and put epoxy expandind foam so that it can expand on the bottom of the mold and then cut the foam with a hot wire so the mold would be hard enogh for the vaccum
Hi there Ramy. You should really try using a compressed air to blot between the mold and fiber - it will loosen up and its widely used when doing that sort of work. Great video btw.
Another excellent video, was wondering if you would be able to make a video of your workshop and where you store your fleet of aircraft. I'm sure your followers would love to see it too.
Pretty neat work :-) I appreciate that you sharing everything with us, your successes and also the failures. Only in this way can there be a learning progress ... I have to remind myself again and again
Do not try to seal against the print/mold, just bag it from all sides no need for extra work =) (the only concern here is for the print not to collapse, but you can reduce the internal volume of the print by printing in cavities on the bottom side and increasing the infill)
I was going to say the same.Other videos I have seen use a vacuum bag. Also my 3d printer are stronger I assume I use a lot more infill and edge extrusions and top layers.
Another spectacular build Ramy! Can't help but wonder when you will begin a full size composite aircraft that you can pilot? Can't wait for the maiden flight of your Citation.
Loving the video and the skills on show giving such attention to detail. The end result will be incredible. Although for me I would love to see if there is a way that you can integrate the servos and servo links internally so they don’t show on the outside, maybe some rotating elements to operate the control surfaces from within perhaps assuming you can get enough mechanical advantage with an offset lever.
Amazing video and great construction. It’d be cool to incorporate the super strong carbon-fibre into the structural strength of the wing, a bit like a full size airliner.
I'm working on the early stages of a fiberglass composite aircraf, The cozy mk4. To avoid resin uptake weight we add microspheres to epoxy 1:1 by volume and cover the surface of the core material in that. You only fill the pores that way. You scrape of the excess before you start fiberglassing. That technique should help with that top wing skin weight
Also I don't think you added anything on the other side of the core material... Only having carbon fiber on one side of the core won't make it stronger.the point of core is to add thicnkess with minimum mass. So far I'm loving the builds. Some of the best craftsmanship I've seen on composites I've seen in a long time
Always enjoyable watching your videos. Incredible skill and attention to detail, the only problem is I watch this and you make it look easy lol. Keep up with the great content please! Thanks again!
Hi Ramy, for your vacuum problem: I usually use a vacuum-bag that is actually a wide, flat hose that i permannetly close on one side, then move in the laminated form and close the second open side. reuseable, less of that sticky rubber and all the mess....
Try using Sand and Sealer it's a one-part spray that should seal up everything for you. I would try a small test piece. You could put that on the outside so the inside of your mold wouldn't be disturbed
I was wondering: how do the wings hold? Are they attached to the fuselage only by friction, thanks to the 2 bars/tubes, or is there an additional fixing system?
This is just speculation, but I think the two cylinders that go all the way into the wing are enough. Like in flight the wing experiences vertical stress caused by the lift, while receiving little lateral stress.
I'd love to see you make a Beechcraft Starship. deffinetelly my favourite private passenger plane. I think you would love the design and the concept im general. by design it can not be stalled!
Hi Ramy like your work. Hey there’s a plane builder on you tube who is very skilled in using carbon fibre, and making intricate one off parts. His channel name and name is Mike Patey, he maybe of help to you casting parts and tricks he uses to get them to release, like using clear tape, as the carbon and resin doesn’t stick to it among other things. Anyway just my 2 cents. Keep up the awesome work. Cheers.
I have worked with carbon fiber and 3D printed molds. The simple solution is to just put the mold with the carbon fiber in a vacuum bag that goes all the way around the mold. Normally 3D prints are strong enough to withstand the pressure
One more thing, I would love to see a thrust reverser system why not work on a simple clamshell design similar to the ones used on the gulf stream .... if only for the visual effect . To see the spoilers pop up and the reversers kick in would look awesome 😎
Follow me on Instagram instagram.com/ramy_rc_
Put the whole mound in a vac bag. Should stop the leaking.
The plane twin turbine uff
love your builds
B-787-9 Mk-2 please!
Can you please make a step by step guide to using carbon fibre and fiberglass to build rc models
Hi Ramy, to easily overcome your 3d printed mold vacuum sealing problem, simply bag the entire mold as in all around the mold just like if you were actually inserting the entire mold assembly into a traditional bag.
He is making airplanes even faster. Just wait ur gonna see him do two airplanes in one episode.
lol ikr
lol
I absolutely love the combination of wood and carbon fiber. It looks amazing!
Thanks Arvin.
Yeah
Cleanest workmanship ever seen in yt
I would love to see Ramy design his own airplane/ jetliner, that to scale, would be available for marketing. He is extremely talented.
One day!
This is so cool! I build the Citation M2 wing at Cessna and I love watching the RC being built with the same care I put in the real ones at work!
Put the whole mound in a vac bag and seal the ends.
There is air inside 3d printed parts too, so the mold would implode due to it pulling air from the inside of it. Or at least i think that would happen.
@@lennartw.2219 no it won't...with 10% infill the PLA can take 34#/in2...vacuum bag only is 14#/in2. You do have to account for compression shrinkage at about 2% however.
@@fokker1979 haha ok, i see you are well informed😁
Thats what I do. 8% infill, 0.6mm nozzle and 0.44mm layer hight. The moulds are extremely strong. I put them in a vacuum bag and go to arround 600mbar, works great.
This, absolutely! Really surprised to see Ramy skip this idea. I've bagged wings with pretty low density foam cores before and those don't crush, so I can't imagine there'd be any trouble with the printed molds crushing.
Love the business jet builds! The airliners are cool, but no one else really does these. Love watching all your builds. You have come a long ways!
I love the mix of your use of tools and technology like 3D printing and CNC routing and all the incredibly skillful handwork, like cutting out control surfaces, windows, access panels, etc. You are truly an artist and it's inspiring!
Your 3d printed mold idea has opened up a new world for me. It is by far the easiest way to get accurate strong composite parts.
I found the 3d printed molds just get crushed by a vacuum pump (unless you use high infill, which takes forever), So I use those clothing storage bags that you put under vacuum with a regular vacuum cleaner. You can buy xl bags and tape them together for large parts. This works really well for me.
I don’t know how you do it mate! These designs are extraordinary! You have gone to every little detail. Impressive work.
Hi you could use wet layup and put the whole mould in a vacuum bag. Be carefull with the amount of vacuum you put on it. 100% vacuum could crush your mould. 30% vacuum is typically sufficient. You could also put in an extra thick piece of wood underneath your mould in the vacuum bag to prevent the mould from warping.
I really enjoy the building video's! Keep them coming!
Nice i learn new things specially musica and methods every single time i watch your videos and good work!
I watched one of his first builds the other day. He has come a long way! We could call him a master builder by now!
This video format really threw me back to your much older videos. The amount of work you put in for this channel always impresses me 👍
Can’t believe the progress you have made on your building from your awesome 737 out of foam to full carbon. Amazing work man. Cheers from South Africa
Your technique has improved exponentially with the carbon and fiberglass... I worked at Pan Am as a mechanic in their fiberglass and control surface overhaul shop in New York waayyyy back in the 1980’s and 90’s lol we were just starting to work on carbon fiber components from the Airbus A-300’s . Watching your videos is reigniting my desire to fly R/C again after a 20 year hiatus I purchased a flite test P47 and hopefully I can get to a point where I can scratch build some scale jets someday . Thanks for lighting this spark😁👍
Watching Ramy in my lunch break. Perfect friday!
It's very refreshing and pleasing to watch your excellent work and attention to details. It pains me when you put so much work into something and it turns out less than you wanted it to be. Great videos, I look forward to each of them.
Hi Ramy,
Superb videos and outstanding craftsmanship.
Maybe this can help in your vacuum molding. Of course a full bag is an option too.
Even in fiber glass molds, made from a plug (a plug handcrafted, CNC carved, copy from original or other), there are sometimes pinholes left, that do not allow to generate one sided mold full vacuum (with tacky tape) and when you stop infusing resin, they generate a stream of bubbles that ruin your part while still on vacuum.
I have seen as a solution, which is to cover/paint the back of the mold with one or two coats of cheap white wood glue. You can add a different water soluble pigment to each coat, to check for adequate covering. This layer has to extend eventually to the surface or lip where you glue the tacky tape. It is a rubbery layer that does not contribute with its own pinholes unless you do a bad covering job. This solves the problem completely on fiber glass molds, that have no cavities and have a single or multiple pinholes, that can not be discovered. Eventually an ultrasound leak detector might help but when the mold is under vacuum stress it becomes difficult because new arise.
In your molds you have the internal cavities that have to be "emptied" first. This could be a very slow process if the pinholes are few and small. For that you could arrange on the lip of the mold (suction side) for an island that is connected to the internal cavities (designed at print time). That island would be surrounded by a tacky tape circle and from there you would pull vacuum too, to equalize pressure from the internal spaces or cavities. To be sure you get the internal cavities equalized with the rest of the mold, it might be wise to pull vacuum for halve an hour before proceeding to infuse resin. Maybe this is too much hassle, but you will still need, in case of a full bag, an efficient way of emptying the mold internal spaces. This will minimize the resin going into the pinholes and making the demolding more difficult.
Thanks for your videos.
I always get excited when I see Ramy RC in my notifications tab!! I look forward to your next video as soon as I finish the current one.
During this period of stay at home due to the pandemic, I keep watching your videos and waiting for the next one.
Extraordinary work yours.
Thanks for the videos.
Another option would be to vac form a thin HDPE skin over the mould surface first - still using your original method. That would get over the leaking issue and save having to strengthen the complete mould if putting the whole thing in a vac bag. Great build series BTW!
Wouldn't be surprised to see Ramy flying in his future e-jets! Inspiring watching him build RC jets! Great Job as always Ramy!
you know you can get tubes and slide the whole mold into the bag?
If the mold is not rock solid then the vacuum will crash it
@@RamyRC You could put a solid board underneath or i have seen some guys so it your way with one piece on top but they stick it to the table top and not the mold.
That's a great idea!
@@RamyRC it should not as the pressure would be the same all around the mold and in all directions
@@RamyRC You need to use a 'vacuum-regulating valve' to reduce the pressure in the bag. You will still get the benefit of vacuum bagging without crushing your mold. We used to pull 'glass check' fixtures with cnc'd eps foam molds using less vacuum and the parts came out great.
Nobody:
Really nobody:
Ramy: let’s use 2x 400€ EDF‘s to secure 1€ Depron on the table 😂
Just joking, it’s an amazing job you did there!!! I can’t believe how high quality your builds are now. I’m so proud to see that!! 🥳
😂
hello, again a great video from you. there are also many inspirations for me. but one question: you used presto spray primer beforehand. what did you use this time greeting
@@jorgkathage3893 same primer but it's two parts, still prefer presto!
Aghhhhhhhhh
I get so excited when a new Ramy Vid is posted!
Excellent work as Always. And that Editing Is InSaNe! So smooth!
You could try cutting the moulds for the wings on your CNC, easycomposites in uk has some great mould materials for the cnc, the price isnt that much more then plastic for printing, time spent making them would be around the same considering less sanding if you manage to get a good CNC finishing pass on it with a good endmill, also shouldnt have any problems with parts releasing from the mould and the most important part you could vaccum bagg it or do resin infusion real easy and you could do multiple parts from the same mould.
I was thinking the same thing. Why bother with 3D printed molds when you have a CNC machine? It seems like it would be faster and there wouldn’t be much more finishing work.
What a fantastic skill you have. As usual a very professional build.
Loving it Ramy! Great work. Esteban got me a hoodie, but he ordered the wrong size - LOL - so my daughter has one now ;)
Thanks man, did you get a hoodie from my teespring listing?
Congrats Ramy! A good alternative to wax and PVA is to use a chemical sealer and semipermanent demoulder. Easycomposites S120 works great, always with a wipe, don’t use the spray, also Chemtrend MPP 712 and even Loktite’s Frekote fms, all of them are “magical” sealers. Then you can use a semipermanent demoulder, the one from Easycomposites works very well too. With this combination you keep a perfect surface and it is very easy to demold.
Congratulations Man For 400K !!
Love from India 🇮🇳🇮🇳👍
What I used to do when trying to get a vacuum: When searching for the leak use a doctor's stereoscope, cut the metal drum bit off the end so that only the headphone and the flexible tubing remains. Then, use the end of the tube which you just cut to listen for any leaks
What can I say Ramy, which I haven't said a million times before? It's absolutely brilliant mate.
Greg
Hi. I'm Brazilian and I'm a big fan of your channel here on TH-cam. I follow all of your videos. You are to be congratulated! I work at Embraer, the third largest aircraft manufacturer in the world. I would be very happy to see you making an E195-E2 from the E-jet family. A hug.
Worst part about his videos is that they have to end😭😭😭
I'm so impressed when i watch you build!
So much knowledge, and when you do make a mistake you aknowledge it for everyone to see!
That Citation is going to look so awesome in the air and I bet it’s going to handle super smooth and be awfully quick. Awesome job so far ! Keep up the Great Work and Vids ! Stay and Play Safe !! 👊👍
Absolutely astonishing craftsmanship !
ironical, we have a citation in for repaint at the minute. M-YSPC just bought from the USA. Keep up the fantastic work Ramy love every episode of every build x
Man Ramy, you come up with better techniques and ways to build them to an even better quality every episode! Your unreal man, would love your brain! ☺️👍
You have to put the mold completely inside the vacuum bag so it will not leak. There are vacuum film tubes you can make vacuum bag quickly out of. You just might need to attach a rigid board on the bottom of the mold so it will not warp under vacuum. You also might need to use more perimeter layers and more dens infill for the 3D printed mold so it will not flex or crack (it will cost a lot of filament thought and print time).
You need a down draft table ,it would help with all the cutting that you do. Great vid look forward to seeing this one fly.
We've been waiting your videos for so long👍
Amazing amount of work. Great to watch.
Ramy, Instead of just bagging one side, slide your whole mold into a bag that surrounds it and then just seal the end. Think of a loaf of bread in a plastic bag, only one end is open. That will get you around the porosity of the printed mold. It will also greatly reduce your need for the sealing tape. The way you can seal the end of the bag is to use a round tube that is split down the middle, wide enough to allow you to lay the bag onto the split and then snap a piece of round rod into the split, it must be a snap fit so that it creates a seal, that will seal the end of your bag. As stated, that should help get rid of the sealing tape and seal the porosity of the printed mold. I hope I explained it clearly and correctly so that you have a picture of how I mold things. It will also work with resin infusion. Infusion is the best way to go in most cases. Good luck and love the videos.
Wow, Wonderful process ,you are building just like factory full scale, Awesome Man
if you keep building planes at this rate you'll need a hanger next month! so amazing so beautiful!
You could try to open the bottom of the molds and put epoxy expandind foam so that it can expand on the bottom of the mold and then cut the foam with a hot wire so the mold would be hard enogh for the vaccum
As always a pleasure to accompany you on your adventures, greetings from Mexico.
Excellent very hard work 💓💓💓💓💓💓
What is white glue that you applied on ribs.please anyone reply😢
Fantastic work as always...! I am always so happy to see your newest of builds ......
Amazing work👍good job Ramy, keep going 😀god bless you 😀
Hi there Ramy. You should really try using a compressed air to blot between the mold and fiber - it will loosen up and its widely used when doing that sort of work. Great video btw.
really nice to see your building skills improve from video to video! Thanks for everything Sir!
Another excellent video, was wondering if you would be able to make a video of your workshop and where you store your fleet of aircraft. I'm sure your followers would love to see it too.
"And that's the thingy".
Looking good, can't wait for next video.
C'est génial, j'admire la précision du travail.
Another masterclass in building - thanks Ramy 👍
It's always a good day when Ramy uploads another video. :-)
Well done, yet again!
Pretty neat work :-) I appreciate that you sharing everything with us, your successes and also the failures. Only in this way can there be a learning progress ... I have to remind myself again and again
Do not try to seal against the print/mold, just bag it from all sides no need for extra work =)
(the only concern here is for the print not to collapse, but you can reduce the internal volume of the print by printing in cavities on the bottom side and increasing the infill)
I was going to say the same.Other videos I have seen use a vacuum bag. Also my 3d printer are stronger I assume I use a lot more infill and edge extrusions and top layers.
Weldone Ramy, I am always exited to Watch your new videos.. I've actually been a fan of airlines since 6.
We like watching you work, and would prefer the video at normal speed. Really!
Wow
Awesome Ramy looking good 👍
Another spectacular build Ramy! Can't help but wonder when you will begin a full size composite aircraft that you can pilot? Can't wait for the maiden flight of your Citation.
Hey what glue are you using on airfoils to join two carbon fiber sections onto it. Is ut silicon glue ?
Ramy why dont you enclose the whole mold in the vacuum bag ?
Lay a sheet of plastic on the table and bag from that
You have come a long way, great job, final color on aircraft would look cool in yellow
Loving the video and the skills on show giving such attention to detail. The end result will be incredible. Although for me I would love to see if there is a way that you can integrate the servos and servo links internally so they don’t show on the outside, maybe some rotating elements to operate the control surfaces from within perhaps assuming you can get enough mechanical advantage with an offset lever.
I'm so happy that you uploaded a new video 😁
Amazing video and great construction. It’d be cool to incorporate the super strong carbon-fibre into the structural strength of the wing, a bit like a full size airliner.
Damn good R/C aircraft builder you are, Ramy!!!
Impressive as always
I'm working on the early stages of a fiberglass composite aircraf, The cozy mk4. To avoid resin uptake weight we add microspheres to epoxy 1:1 by volume and cover the surface of the core material in that. You only fill the pores that way. You scrape of the excess before you start fiberglassing.
That technique should help with that top wing skin weight
Also I don't think you added anything on the other side of the core material... Only having carbon fiber on one side of the core won't make it stronger.the point of core is to add thicnkess with minimum mass.
So far I'm loving the builds. Some of the best craftsmanship I've seen on composites I've seen in a long time
Always a pleasure to watch your video's. Awesome work.😀
Always enjoyable watching your videos. Incredible skill and attention to detail, the only problem is I watch this and you make it look easy lol. Keep up with the great content please! Thanks again!
Hi Ramy, for your vacuum problem: I usually use a vacuum-bag that is actually a wide, flat hose that i permannetly close on one side, then move in the laminated form and close the second open side. reuseable, less of that sticky rubber and all the mess....
Hey bro that’s awesome. And I can Imagine the hard work it takes. Thanks for these videos you make.
Happy to see your new uploads sir.
Hope to see you building honda jet on your next vid. Keep safe
Put whole mold in some sort of air tight bad and air leaking problem is solved
Or maybe try a plastic bag en put the complete mold in it
@@Tuitjemobiel That's the same thing I was thinking to put the entire mold in a plastic bag.
I was going to suggest this 👍👍
Problem with that is the mold could crush or get distorted under vacuum pressure. Not the best approach unless the mold is tough enough to handle it.
@@AntiDot70 That's true, maybe he can try one and see how it goes.
Best work I've ever see
Try using Sand and Sealer it's a one-part spray that should seal up everything for you. I would try a small test piece. You could put that on the outside so the inside of your mold wouldn't be disturbed
I was wondering: how do the wings hold? Are they attached to the fuselage only by friction, thanks to the 2 bars/tubes, or is there an additional fixing system?
This is just speculation, but I think the two cylinders that go all the way into the wing are enough. Like in flight the wing experiences vertical stress caused by the lift, while receiving little lateral stress.
@@chesterwang3070 Yeah, that was also my supposition.
I'd love to see you make a Beechcraft Starship. deffinetelly my favourite private passenger plane. I think you would love the design and the concept im general. by design it can not be stalled!
You are a true artist!
Question: what do you do with the aircraft after it's done and has flown? Do you sell it? Do you store it?
Yeah! I wanna know what happened to his 777X
@@hueyrosayaga I think he says his job now is building airplanes. So yeah he probably sells it
Hi Ramy like your work.
Hey there’s a plane builder on you tube who is very skilled in using carbon fibre, and making intricate one off parts. His channel name and name is Mike Patey, he maybe of help to you casting parts and tricks he uses to get them to release, like using clear tape, as the carbon and resin doesn’t stick to it among other things. Anyway just my 2 cents. Keep up the awesome work.
Cheers.
Congratulations, a master's work
Well done Ramy, as always.
I have worked with carbon fiber and 3D printed molds. The simple solution is to just put the mold with the carbon fiber in a vacuum bag that goes all the way around the mold.
Normally 3D prints are strong enough to withstand the pressure
Hi mantis can you kindly tell me how do you decide which gsm and grade are you going to use for the carbon fiber?
One more thing, I would love to see a thrust reverser system why not work on a simple clamshell design similar to the ones used on the gulf stream .... if only for the visual effect . To see the spoilers pop up and the reversers kick in would look awesome 😎
Can't you make a bag to wrap the whole wing? That way you will have no leaks due to the mold... Just curious..
On the leading edge of the wing you make an step between the upper and lower skin for gluing or glue in the edge?
Please make a video on equipments ,tools and glues you use love your build
Beautiful work it is a pleasure to watch you
You have done nice work I watched videos on time