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How many solar panels do you need to charge a 200Ah battery? In January end of winter
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2024
- This is the Zooms (REDODO) 200Ah + battery and it has been performing great depending on how much sunlight per day you get we say between 600-800 watts of solar will be sufficient to charge a large battery like this depending on you region and time of year. It was the end of winter during this time so it's only producing about half of what it produces in the summer which is right around 2.2kWh a day while maintaining a load 24/7
You location may produce more or less depending on sunlight. Proper direction is a MUST to get maximum power.
Zooms customer support has answered all my questions with-in 24 hours sometimes within the same few hours despite the time difference. Customer service seems to be on point for now.
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I am loving the FLuke 73 Lincoln tech DVOM! Still have mine from 2002 and it works perfect still!
Haha nice eye yes this one is from this is from the same era 🤓😅 it’s a beast and still going
Great, just the vid I was lookin for.
This tell me allot. Now I can further math my endeavor 🤙
🤟🏼
I have that same charge controller. It’s hard to zoom in, but it doesn’t look like your charge controller is set to “Li” battery type. There’s not a float charge for lithium. It will charge better if you match the charger settings to the battery chemistry type.
So, its set to custom parameters every battery should include a manufacturer spec sheet detailing the cells and charge specs they require this is straight off that the float is set pretty high and never really sees it because of the 24/7 load the batteries really never rest
but maybe we will give it a shot and compare
@@DIYKAI good 👍
Yeah . Hes using user mode and has boost turned on . Might even have equalize on . Hes going to destroy his battery if he hadn't already.
@@j5892000 yeah equalization Plus lithium is a potential blow up fire ball bad situation. Our outback FM 80 has equalization I have it set 1.5 volt below Max Mppt or float or Bulk charge just to be safe! Its also set to minimum x1 per year to do this fatal feat as we cannot shut it off. 😆
In December San Diego my 600w array was producing between 150-200w during the 4 peak hours (10am-2pm) and around 100w during the rest of the day. So about 1kwh per day is a reasonable estimate.
That’s about what we average now about 1kW in the winter and over 2 summer time
Cool stuff
If you don't use a solar tracker, the question is more complicated because the Sun is going to carve a path across your panels and not have 100% of its total voltage except for maybe a small place in the sky. Also, there are panels now that can collect power from both sides of the cell.
so i like how you had your 8 batterys, but i need storage for 12 volt over 24 volt. so i basically made 2 big batterys. but dont feel this is perfect yet. why didnt you reuse your golf cart batterys? you had 24 volts, had you also made a line to the 8 batterys, you would have had that much more storage? im on grid, but trying to cut my electric bill. old car batterys are $10 from junk yard.
I have 2 x 210w polycrystalline panels in series and i get 10 amp charge rate by 9am (Australia)
thanks for this, we can do the math but real world tests and trials are the useful information for predicting performance, not abstracted calculations.
Your welcome
If I am reading the specs in the manual correctly for that charge controller, it maxes out at 520 watts at 12v nominal so getting a few watts more is likely because the battery voltage can be higher but you are right on the edge of it's max as you say in the video.
In my system I have a 52.16V nominal 350AH bank with 7840 watts worth of panels (yes it is a bit overpaneled for my normal consumption) and on cold winter days I can sometimes hit 8600 watts while in the summer the array often drops a bit below the 7840 when it gets hot out and the panels heat up.
The rule of thumb that I often go by is whatever the average consumption is for a typical day, I try to have around 400-500% of that in battery capacity and then size the array to be able to fully top up that bank in 1-2 days of full spring or fall sun. If you have need of more energy in the cloudy days of winter then by all means over panel the system and add even more storage but the above is usually a good start. The world of hobbbiest off grid solar is an addictive one.
Yes slightly over paneled but it has built in protection
What if I wanted to make sure that the batteries can be topped up in a day? My consumption is about 3kWh on my computers and monitors.
You would want a larger system
@@DIYKAI When you say larger system, you mean more panels and a controller that can actually handle that much power?
@@RebelWorkshop so this system is maxed out in series parallel 600W in and the CC outputs 40A to the batteries.
If consumption is like the other comment of 3kw this system produces 2kw or so.
If I were to do a system for 3kw I would do 1000w or solar and a 60A cc min hope this helps
If you wanted to charge that cell in the course of a day? Would you need more panels or a better charge controller that can push more current?
Both honestly but the system has been fine tuned now and we charge 400aH of battery with it
Nice !
Thanks
I'm just checking into solar for various possibilities and I'm wondering what your able to run off this set up?
We power a dorm refrigerator and big deep freezer 24/7 along with charging a variety of devices…..
What are you trying to power?
4- 100w mono solar panel with mppt regulator
We use a similar 200ah lipo in our RV and there is something off with that setup maybe. I can easily change my battery on 600 watts of solar with a 60 amp Rover Renogy charge controller. Running a similar 12v system, is your charge controller set to Li?
This was January winter time….now in the summer production is around 2.2kWh a day we are using a 40A Renogy
I'm wondering if you can charge at a constant 500 watts if instead of charging your 200ah battery have the solar panels charge a 12 volt capacitor battery. A capacitor will charge faster than a lithium battery making it perfect for sending voltage to the charge controller. Not sure if this will work but a 12 capacitor battery should still be seen as direct current from a charge controller so it should be able to charge with solar and discharge to charge controller. Its something I have yet to see be done on TH-cam but one day I will test if this is a good idea
Pv capacitor to solar charger is a redundant system set up. Pointless. Not needed. Now a 12v Large Farad Capacitor between your battery and inverter like your talking I assume will be amazing for that Initial power draw if using Lead acid. Not needed for a Lithium type system as they can deliver a high C1/C2/C3 charge out put. Capacitors are used in mobile applications for those very annoying non friendly car and truck thumpers. You know music so loud your windows shake! Capacitors are very dangerous out right. Most solar people DIYers touch wires a lot. I do own a large Capacitor for this purpose as we know out right there will be high demand coming from the 12v lead system. On the other hand 99.9% of the cheap square modified sine wave inverters are just trash and cannot support high amp draws pass 1/2 their rated power. True sine wave inverters are truly another awesome story! If I make a video using the capacitor it will be loaded with warning of death/ possibly almost guaranteed large sparks and full of danger. I do not own a set of certified gloves to protect my hands. so charging up and installation scares the living life out of me. I could have someone I dislike set it up 😆
This "test" doesn't mean much since how long it will take 600 watts of solar to charge a 200 amp-hr battery depends on where you are, the time of year, the orientation of the solar panels (direction they are pointing and angle up from horizontal), panel shading, the temperature your panels are at AND the weather. For example, where I am (Maine), my 1,020 watt solar array will average only about 1.3 Kwh per day in December, but will average about 5.5 Kwh per day in late June. Note those are average outputs. Some days will be a bit higher and some will be MUCH lower. Your 200 Ah lithium battery has a capacity of 12.8 x 200 = 2,560 watt-hr and has about a 98% charging efficiency. Thus depending on charge controller efficiency and voltage drops in your wiring, it will take more than 2,600 Watt-hours to fully charge your battery. The fact that you are drawing power from the battery during the "test" will of course increase the amount of power you need from the solar array to charge the battery by the amount of power you draw from the battery. With no load it would take my 1,020 watt solar array about two average December days to charge your battery, but only half an average late June day.
We are averaging 3kw here daily….so not sure why yours is so much lower? We have our adjustable ground mount due south at about 32° tilt angle through a MPPT controller
Voltage drops are no concern here as we run 8ga series parallel connection at a 20ft run
@@DIYKAI Stumbled on your videos, fun to watch. Regarding the differences Todd is seeing in output, that's to be expected. I've had 1,200 watts of solar on the roof of my fifth wheel for the last 7 years now, flat mounted, and all sorts of different locations both summer and winter. The variations are wild and total output not great due to the flat mounting, and fact that much of the day at least some panels experience shading. If you go to the governments website at the NREL and use their PVWatts calculator, you can get a good estimate of what to expect for any given month based on the size of your system, orientation of your panels and angle, and efficiency of your system. They have monitoring systems in place all over the country to measure actual solar radiation and base their estimates on average weather conditions for that region as well. As you've seen, tilt, cleanliness, time of year, geographic location, weather all play a huge part of the equation, and averages are just that. It's all a guessing game as to what to expect on any given day.
@@jeffking6672 Thanks for watching! Yes all those factors play a huge roll....Our system is ground mounted south facing and we adjust 2 times a year we have seen from this 600W array over 2kW a day in the summer time (that's with a constant 2A load with a few hours here and there up to 30A) The 200Ah lifepo4 does excellent on this set up even with a day of rain in between.
You average about 1.2 (daily charge) to 1 (panel wattage) on an average deep winter day
What do you produce from that system on a thick cloud day?
(Trying to figure out how much I need to daily recharge at high latitude in a cloudy environment)
nice, i have almost the same setup, but with 2x250w panels so i'm at 500 watts. if we were to go to 24V would a step down converter be needed to go to the inverter (2000W renogy inverter)?
thanks, we looked into something like that and the better option is to step up to a 24v inverter and cc inverter that can handle higher battery voltage. With a step down you will lose some efficiency and if you can get one that handles the amp load it will be $$$$.
So, we found when building base, it off your needs and inverter first lol
600 watts with an average day of 5 hrs sunshine gives you 3000watts divided by 14.2 volts charging gives you 211 so you need about 1200 watts to get about 400 amp hours of battery to charge in an average day.
Math on paper is good for theory….this was done at the end of winter we will update with a summer video as it produces 2.2kWh or more daily….real world results never line up with paper exactly
can you share details of how you constructed your solar panel stand ?
Sure we are going to do a full walk through video soon
Can you rewrite what was on your final screen, the image is blocked by 2 links so I didn't see your final results. TY
You can see it now I corrected it thanks
You should be able to estimate using “w / v = a” then times that by amount of sunlight. “600 / 12 = 50A”, “200ah / 50A = roughly 4hr”
Math is good for paper but real world conditions are never perfect
We charge at around 35A
@@DIYKAI wat about 24v solar panels
These can be wired for multiple different voltages depending on your application if your only powering 120v AC the 12v should do just fine and more and you want to step up to 24 or 48
🤔 I have yet to see a 600W panel (module) giving you that much Amps. It can't be that straightforward in reality.
Wow!
Lovely video from your end.
Please, Could there be any efficiency differences if 2 pieces of 300w solar panels are combined instead of the 6pieces of 100w solar panels (while maintaining same manufacturer). Do you have any live experience on which is better?
Thanks.
Thank You! So as far as using 300W panels vs 100w panels...usually the 300w panels are for higher voltage systems like 24-36-38VDC because they have higher amps and volt production. If you choose a controller/inverter that is a smart one most can take the input solar and turn it to whatever battery voltage you need.
Generally, 300W panels are going to be used more for commercial or whole home power.
Hope that helps anymore questions please comment back and we will try to answer them for you!
Renogy makes a 450 watt 12 volt split panel. It can be configured to work on 12 volt or 48 volt system..I found this to setup better suited to an RV. As I have no clue why people want 24 volts system today...As wire size for short runs is not costing nothing. Not to mention more and more products are being designed to work off 12 volts. And the more you off load from 120 volt Inverter to manage. The more efficient the system...
@@WizzRacing 24v/48v may be better for boats where some modern kit and things like windlass need the power. Half the gauge wire to run 40ft from the back to the front of the boat is a lot cheaper and easier to hide 👍
@@WizzRacing 24V and 48V are better when higher solar input is needed for larger off-grid and other systems. For example, the Victron 150/70 has 1000W as a max for 12V nom PV but can do 2000W for 24V nom PV and even 4000W for 48V nom PV. When having larger battery banks that are stored far away than higher voltage helps with transmission losses. It really just depends on what you are powering and how much solar you really need to power the system.
@@framebuyframe2493 I said an RV... As they have very limited space to install 800 watt system.. So no there is no advantage to have 24-48 volts. As you just killed off anything that runs off 12 volts.. As you need a whole new battery system for that...that or add a transformer.
bms means ecu and the supervisor can mutate it anytime
Yours goes half a volt higher than mine ; currently showing 25.2v. on 18 batteries. It will start charging again in 2 hours. I did notice that when I went from 6 to 10 panels last summer, my amps doubled. I usually wind up at 25.9 at the end of the day. Since mine is 24 v. , the 40 amp controller can take another 600 watts of panels...usually show about 17-18 amps at around 38 volts.
This is 600w going into a MPPT 40a controller I set up the charge values to a custom setting so I can play with the voltage and amps
@@DIYKAI note that when your batteries are at a low state of charge say 11 volts, your controller will only be able to pass about 440 watts from your solar array. As your battery voltage increases the number of solar watts your 40 amp controller will be able to pass into the battery will go up because the controller is limited to 40 amps, but power is battery volts times amps. So when the battery is at 13.6 volts your controller can pass 13.6 x 40 = 544 watts maximum. What it comes down to is that you need a bigger controller to take full advantage of your 600 watts of solar. I would suggest a minimum of a 50 amp controller and even that would not be able to pass the full 600 watts when the battery was below 12 volts.
So we use lifepo4 batteries so the lead acid cut off does not apply here as out low voltage BMS cut out is 10.2 (manufacturer specs) float is 14.5 and sitting is 13.5 so we see around 575 easy out system meets all the professional standards we have been testing for 2 months rain shine snow….video coming soon
The battery we have with the BMS can handle 200A all day
@@DIYKAI Mine doesn't have to ; it's 24 v. Worst I get on amps is 90, that's only 4 amps per battery...I have 16 of my batteries rewired with new welding cable...I need a couple more lugs to get them all done with #2 wire. I just got two new solar panels. I'm up to 1200 watts now, but I only have 800 out today because it is super windy out today, and the batteries are almost at float anyways. My battery bank can handle 360 amps of draw for an extended period if the sun is out. Without a BMS. That would be a 7200 watts draw, which I can't produce. I wound up with 885 amp hours and 22,125 watt hours. I decided 18 was enough batteries. I thought about getting 20 but I don't have the room really. I got to the point where I can't use these down by cooking...I cooked for an hour and the batteries came back to the same voltage as before minutes later...they just don't run down anymore. They will stay charging instead of going into float, at the 29.2 voltage range. Things may have to equalize for a day or two before I know how it's going to act now. The new cable has changed something, though...I can just tell by how it is acting now. I stayed up last night and worked on it. We are supposed to get an inch of freezing rain, and the grid may go off some places because of ice. So I have to run up to the Farm and Ranch and get some lugs and solder. I just have a few more cables to do to have them all done. All the positive cables are red now...Oh, P.S. I can weld off of mine...lol
What solar panels are you using?
Renogy 100w monos
i have a small 3 panel solar array and 9:30AM im getting about 140 watts. The peak of the day i get about 180-200 watts. Im guessing you dont have you panels position correctly or you have some serious solar panel issue to get that low of wattage in the early morning.
It was winter and we have some trees in the way…..we produce 540w on average or about 2.2kW a day
What is the monitoring system and app that you're using for your phone connection?
We are using the Renogy premium kit….you have to have the Renogy charge controller and Bluetooth adapter for it to work. Thanks for watching!
@@DIYKAI cool, thanks for the follow-up!
No problem
Did you ever try a controller that accepts 200 volts or more input if you put all panels in series? I know everything above 75 volts is a hazard. So use isolated gloves and better wiring.
No we are only running 50v
Hi, Can you tell me what phone app and devcie you used to monitor your system? I'd like to be able to do this with my system. Thanks.
It’s specific to Renogy
@@DIYKAI Is that the panel or the charge controller?
Both but you can use any panel with the cc but you also need the BT adapter with the cc
@@DIYKAI Ok, thanks.
I just ordered a Renogy AGM 200ah battery and I have 4 - 100 watt panels I haven’t even opened do you think I’ll have any luck?
Yes 400w is more than enough for 200Ah AGM...but be aware AGM (lead Acid) you can only discharge 50% of the battery to make it last meaning you only really have 100Ah
I have two panels in series at a total of 250 watts, but I'm only getting 2/3 watts of power (voltage is fine), maybe 9 watts when the sun comes out. Something doesn't add up, and ideas?
Need more info….wire size and cc? Battery size and type
@@DIYKAI The wire is a standard black PV cable. The Charge Controller is a Epever 50A MPPT controller and both batteries are lead acid 115AH. If you need more info, let me know. Thanks.
I don't see where you're getting that you're close to 40 amps when you only have 9 to 10 amps coming in. Also shouldn't you have this charge controller set above 14 volts for LiFePO4?
50v@ 9-10a coming in and the MPPT steps down the voltage to around 14.8vdc with the amps increasing to 40....it is set to cut off at around 14.3ish per the manufacture spec sheet....every LIFEPO4 battery should come with one to show the lab charging characteristics if it don't I would stay away from it lol
It shows the amp increase on the next screen of the charger
How did you only get 1kw off of 600 watts of panel? Did you only get 2 hours of sun?
Title updated it was end of winter we will do an update
how many amps are you putting in is the answer.
35-40A
you can not work out state of charge with voltage on a lifpo4 battery only way to tell state of charge on lifepo4 is by column count of energy in vs out and the percentage of loss
Yes we are aware the app shows amp hours charged so we can get into the ball park with that and the voltage
Something is odd here. I have 6 AGM 100ah deep cycle batteries, that I got hook up to two solar chargers. Each charger has a 400 watt solar array connected to it. The 4-100watts panels are wired in series. I get about 5-6 hours of sun on them. One time the battery got down to 11.3 v. It took less then 5 hours to fully charge up all 6 batteries.,I don’t understand why it’s taking longer on one 200ah battery.
We have a constant load of anywhere between 3A-30A 24/7 so it’s always pulling a load….plus your using AGM (lead acid) we are using LIFEPO4 totally different voltage and charge characteristics
@@DIYKAI I didn't know that LIFEPO4 had such an excessive voltage swing, compared to lead- H2SO4;
@@josepeixoto3384 yes our resting voltage no load is around 13.7 you can pull it all the way down to 10.4 or so with little to no damage to the battery life cycle is around 10 years or 5-7k complete discharges and recharges
@iiinsaiii
DIY KAI's set-up was designed way out of balance... he is using a charge controller limited to only 40A (on such a big system?!?).
Like taking a sip of water from a fire hydrant!
What a shame...
It’s really not it’s the max this charger can handle is 540w so being 600 that leaves room for over cast and days that are not as sunny….limited to 40A is just fine for a 200aH battery
I have a question...
I have a 300w solar panel and a 12v 50ah battery and for some reason it doesn't want to charge at more than a 100w.
Is that normal?
Yes the battery will only accept what it need basset on internal resistance and cc settings
To give you and idea our 600w system with 400aH of battery will charge at 600w until about 70% then is starts to trickle down when fully charged and full sun I get 6W lol
What was the outside temperature?
Around the timing of filming in the morning probably 40°F maybe don’t quite remember
you need to parallel those panels. 2 each so if you have 5 amp you would have 15 amp. that would increase your charging x3.
We run them in series parallel so our voltage is around 50VDC and amps are about 15-20 charge controller steps the 50 down to 14.8 @ around 40A
@@DIYKAI you are not running a 48 volt system so try and keep them as close to your system. if doing a 12 volt then pareall them all so you keep 12 volt and keep upping the amps(current). if 24 volt then do 2 x3. if 48 you are spot on. I think you are doing 12. which means more amps not volts. makes your controller run more efficient.
@@DIYKAI Okay my inverter does 450 volts with 15 amps at 48 volt battery bank. so that changes things as it wants more volts than amps. which means smaller wires to run from solar to inverter. there is no way I can achieve that balance but on smaller units they have more amps and less voltage. so always try to max out the amps rather than the volts. that makes your system more efficient. which gives a faster charging.
@@dc1544 We just have a small system short run so we are able to get away with smaller wire not sure if we want to step up to 24V or higher as this seems to be suiting our needs for right now who know in the future.
It doesn't matter.. A Watt is a Watt...
Mine charge way faster with less panels. Was it cloudy or overcast or something?
It was and it was in January I updated the title
I didnt even notice that lol. For me here in florida it takes just a few hours, especially now that its summer. I never timed it in january. I should do that and see how much slower it is
We are just north of u lol now we get over 2kWh daily
You need more direct sun light or better panels 😬
So you can charge a 12 volt battery with panels set up for 48 volts with the renogy mppt?
yes the 20,30,&40A Renogy MPPT controller can accept a max of 100V DC input....when using a 40A controller the 12V DC can handle 520W or 1040W if configured for 24V DC
Thats what mppts do best
@@DIYKAI as I can see, you're using a Renogy 40Amp mppt. As you mentioned and specified in technical sheet, set to 12v could handle a maximum of 520 watts. However hits 535 watts (timestamp 00:07:38). How is this possible? Could eventually damage your controller?
We have actually hit spikes of 620. No damage I believe the controller just dumps it this controller can actually do 1100w or so but in 24v configuration…panels under the right conditions can sometimes produce more than rated but this only happens for a brief period
Like the rest of the solar shouldn't be measured in watts
Amps is what's actually goes into the battery or the grid
If you measure in Watts it's only about 15% you must overcome the incoming pressures meaning the presence of voltage in the battery or the grid
Charges at 35A normal
What is that analyser call where to buy it
Renogy link in the description
Why is your 300W panel bringing in such low wattage even by 10 am?
It was just the time of year we start bringing in power now at 7am it’s a 600w system and we see 500+ all the time now. Usually over 2kW daily
was the battery being used at all?
Under full sun no it was charging and the rest of the solar was powering everything the system produces more power than we use per day
In this case in order to top off my 800ah battery every day I need 4800w solar panel?
My system is 24 volts though.
Depends a lot on location and we had some issues that we worked out….we get around 2.2kW a day now. Your charge controller will also play a huge factor depends on how many amps it puts out
@@DIYKAI I am in Central Florida where we have a lot of sun lol, I used to charge them with 12x208w panels that I am planning to replace with 16x540w panels, or at least with 8 of the 540w panels and add the other 8 to my grid tie system, but I really want to do it right not too much panels or too little.
Oh yea you get great sun lol. What type of controller do you use? We choose not to grid tie because when the grid goes down you will not have power as well unfortunately for safety reasons they have it set up like that to protect the line men
@@DIYKAI Till recently I was using one of the Amazon 30A MPPT charge controller on the new setup I want to go up to 60A, the grid tie system actually cut my electric bill by over $200 a month, that is 11KW system, my off grid system runs all the lights fridge & well pump, pretty much my grid power is running only the ACs
We use a 40A and it charges a 230aH battery every day no problem. We want to step up to a 60A as well. Nice! We wanted to do grid tie but the company has so many restrictions and the SECs are so low that we said screw it off grid it is lol
Are you charging 12v battery with 52v panels ? Is it possible
No they are in series parallel the total voltage coming in is 50VDC the controller steps it down to charge the battery
@@DIYKAI All controllers can do step down voltage ?
No each controller will have its own set of parameters some can only accept 18 some 24 you will need to size it off your needs and what your running along with how far your panels are from it wire becomes very expensive
In direct sunlight, you should be seeing 40+ amps at 12 volts if you have your solar panels wired correcty and you are showing +/-5 amps. Something isn't right.
Wired in series parallel
0:42 It's not 1.2 Amp, It's 0.12 Amps
the solar panel are in parrel or series?
Both series parallel
@@DIYKAI 3 by 2 or 2 by 3 ?
3x2 averaging 520+w @35A or so seen 600 a few times get around 2.2kW a day it’s a Renogy ground mount array we have a few videos on it
13w on 600 watt panels sucks.. Glad I don't have that problem in az One 100 watt panel is more then anof
End of winter no sun really….produces over 2.2kWh daily in the summer
are your panels wired in series, or parallel,you can wire panels for volts, or amps
They are wired series parallel
@@DIYKAI ok
What app is that on your phone and did it come with your charge controller??
It’s the Renogy app and you can download it from the play store should work with 30a and higher mppt charge controller
Something is off here how could you only have barely 11 A and you have 600 W worth of solar panels you should have somewhere between 20 and 30 A that battery should be charged in a couple of hours max?
600 series parallel the cc is the factor we get average 500+w at around 35A or so once stepped up by the cc…..15A would be perfect for our setup but that’s never the case with solar each panel is around 5A
We get around 2kWh daily
I'm prolly missing something, but why the hell is it taking so long to charge that one battery with all that solar?
No one is reading the title this was in the end of winter it now produces over 2.2kWh daily
VICTRON SMART 150 6O WOULD HELP YOU OUT
Yes we plan to upgrade soon
I have 2 100w Renogy panels, 300ah battery, mine charged to 100% in around 2 hours, I have the same app.
Update; I learn a little about this project and my LI battery did not 0 out, so 200w of solar took 2 day's to fully charge my 300 amh battery, it's perfect for me, because we haven't used more than 15% of it maybe down the road we will, thanks for everyone's advice...
Sweet we always have a 24H load on ours so far so good!
200 watts of panels divided by 12 volts = 16.67 amps. 300 ah battery divided 16.67 = 18 hours to charge from full discharge to full charge. Did you start at 95% full charge?
@@Yodaandhislightsabre not sure, sorry I'm new at this...
This is 600w in series parallel so it’s charging at about 40A in full sun at 50VDC stepped down to 12VDC …..so if we run out 200Ah battery from full charge which is 13.8VDC it only takes the morning into afternoon maybe 6 sun hours to fully charge while maintaining a few loads
@@DIYKAI My are in series, I've got as much as 9 amps and 182 watts, not been below 72% yet, but it works for what I need...
what is d name of d monitoring àpp on ur Android phone. thanks
It Renogy app but you have to have a Renogy charge controller to use it
What app is it on your phone?
Renogy app you have to have there controller and Bluetooth device
@@DIYKAI just ordered one!
It is very nice to have! Tons of info
Your battery type is not set properly on the charge controller. Not set on LI.
It set to the manufacturer specs that came with the battery….this charge controller lets you set up custom limits.
The battery also has a built in BMS so it’s double Redundancy
@@DIYKAI Your suppose to set the float low enough so it never floats.
Correct ours almost never floats because of the 24/7 load so we never really worry about it
@@DIYKAI If It just so happens to float to much it will degrade your battery. Set it to 13.4.
No sun today in the north of sweden .
Ah man that sucks. How is the weather?
Where are you living? No sun at 9am?
End of winter sun far off in the sky
If there's no shading 600w of Panel will charge 200Ah in 4hrs if you're Using 12v system.
You need to Parallel your solar panels using 60A solar charge controller.
By using Ohms Law.
W=VxI
=12vx200Ah
=2400Wh.
We need to divide 2400wh of the battery by 600W Of Solar panels.
2400Wh/600w
=4hrs.
Therefore it will take 4hrs for 600w of panels to charge 200Ah Battery. When it Drains to 0%(10.5)
But it will take 2hrs when you use half of the battery (12.06) 50%
That's provided you have full sun at the right angle almost impossible to keep all the time
But yes you are correct with your math and ohms law....
@@DIYKAI assume we have 4hrs sun per day the battery will fully charge at 2hrs.
By using the Ohms Law
W=VI
W=12v×200Ah
W=2400Wh.
But D.O.D of Lead Acid Battery Is 50%
2400Wh × 50 ÷ 100 = 1200wh.
But Sun Hours is 4
Then we divide 1200wh/ 4h = 300 Watts of panel required to charge the battery in 4hrs.
If it's 600Watts of panel it will take 2hrs to charge the 200Ah battery. I hope this helps. Thanks
You using ohms law thinking everything will be perfect it is not in the real world we have several system and fluke tools to measure…….nothing performs like ohms law says it’s a baseline line that’s all…….
Thanks for your input it will help other build a base line
FYI why don’t use lead acid we are on Lifepo
@@DIYKAI I understand you sir, am just a beginner, am telling you base on my understanding, Anyway thank you for correcting me.
I have forgotten the battery was Lithium ion.
Lithium Ion has 80% D.O.D
So 12x200x80÷100÷600 = 3.2 Hrs. Am I Right ? 🤣
You need to change the battery type to "LI"
It is we wanted to try the battery manufacturer settings but they sucked lol so we set it to the cc setting
I just don't understand why it's taking you so long to charge one 200ah Lifepo4 battery. We have two 206 ah SOK batteries, and running everything including Starlink 24/7, no A/C, first thing in the AM we are usually never below 60%, or roughly 160 AH used. We have 860 watts of Zamp panels, and a Victron 100/50 mppt charger. and usually by 2:30 PM we are fully charged and on float and we're good on our batteries till the next day. Why would it take over 2 days to charge one battery. Plus you shouldn't be charging your lithium battery up over 14 volts, you will get much longer life out of them if you only charge to 13.8. My batteries are fully charged right now as I speak, and my monitor is showing 13.78 and the charger is on float @ around 5 amps from the charger. Seems to me that you need to set up some different charge parameters. Just my 2 cents.
So we see around 520w and only bring in 35-40a from that our charge controller is the limiting factor here….as stated different regions and setups will all yield different results. Also as stated lifepo4 batteries should include a charge sheet to set your parameters off which is exactly what we did per the manual….we have had ZERO issues since last year with this set up. When we expand we are going to update everything but for now it serves us well. Thanks for the comment
We are also under load 24/7 with the inverter and deep freezers
We’re under load 24/7 also, with a 3000 watt inverter going 24/7 as well running everything in the camper, Starlink satellite system, 2 tvs, two laptops, two chrome books, two iPhones, elec self cleaning litter box, refrig and icemaker, furnace and lights, just not the A/C. But what I’m saying about not charging your lithium up to over 14 volts is the honest truth. You can double, even triple the life of your lifepo4 batteries by not charging to over 14 volts, 13.8 is much better. You should also never discharge below 20% ever. Look up Will Prouse on TH-cam, he is the man when it comes to solar. He has videos explaining how to charge the lithium batteries properly, I don’t care what brand they are you can double their life with proper charging.
We charge at 40-45 amps as well.
We actually just checked today and it’s about 35A constant with no load it charges from 11.1VDC to 13.8 in about 5 full sun hours
Doesn’t sun hours and location make a difference. Why yes I believe it does. Yes yes it does.
Yes very much so
Your efficiency is due to the angle of your panels
Correct that plays a huge role
@@DIYKAI the shadows of the panels and the panels angle didn't jive .something looks off to me
It was end of Jan now it’s making 2.2kWh daily
The angle is set up to our latitude per the solar calculator
@@DIYKAI I actually measured angle of light at my location in January and June at 9:30am , noon , 1pm ,and 2:30pm took the averages and adjusted for winter and summer angle to set my system. It was off 7° and 8° respectively from national data ,nothing huge, but measurable none the less. I'm totally data driven...but with my own collected data. I know I know,, my wife says I'm nuts too.. lol, Great job on your vids.
you have way to many volts and not enough amps, cahnge your panel setup 2 in series x3 in parallel.
Our charge controller works with it just fine we are at over 90% efficient and bring in over 2.5kW daily when we expand we will change it over. Everyone’s setup is different especially the regions people live in what works for one may not work for all
Some mppt have higher efficiency at voltage 40-60 when charging a 12v battery. Mine does too.
Ours as well keeps the amps down in the actual lines running from the panels saving money on expensive larger wire…takes 15a and steps it to 40a
One panel is all you need.
technically yes but it would take days lol
@@DIYKAI then that's the answer.
@@Victic005 highly not practical
Friend
one will do it, if you have no loads and plenty of time...
What shunt are you using, if any? Your app shows the battery at 100% state of charge, when it clearly was not fully charged. That tells you it is relying on voltage to determine SOC, which is simply not a reliable way to determine the state of charge for a LiFePO4 battery. Also, at no point in this video do you answer, or even attempt to answer, the question posed in the title. You do a good job of demonstrating how your panels and SCC work to keep an actively-used battery charged, but in no way does this answer the question of how many solar panels are needed to charge a 200AH battery.
No shunt, and we do not rely on the SOC we rely on bat voltage we have a meter hooked to it. With no load if the battery was at 11VDC it takes around 8 full sun hours or about a day and a half
@@DIYKAI - That's what I was pointing out. You can't determine much of anything from voltage, on a LiFePO4 battery, other than when it is almost fully charged or almost fully discharged. The voltage of that battery chemistry is basically the same at 20% as it is at 80%, so you can't go off of that. You need a shunt to determine where you're really at...that's why your meter was showing 100% when it clearly was not fully charged. Without a shunt, you certainly can't know how much solar it will take to charge your batteries from zero to 100%.
We’re looking into getting one thanks
The app does show how many amp hours charged so it not totally off lol
@@DIYKAI - Does it show the delta between amp hours of solar in and amp hours of load going out? If so, you're left with a calculation (educated guess) on how much solar you need to fully charge the battery in a certain amount of time. Renogy makes a pretty nice shunt and battery meter for around $80 that is easy to connect and configure.
great idea solar charge a dead lfp battery
If you know about lifepo4 batteries than you would know it’s BMS protected and cuts off around 11VDC🧐
Probably about 400 watts worth.
400-600 is a good range if in a southern state northern and you will need 600+
2 days to charge a battery so a 100w panel could not do it aye
Depends on the battery size. We tweaked it some and now producing 3kw daily
Why is your amps coming in is only 3.73 amps......shouldn't it be around 10 amps minimum? Oh I see your not using the standard peak 5 hour charge. Most systems use this standard to calculate charging times.ldk
With the MPPT controller we have we have the panels in series parallel this allows us to use higher voltage around 50v at 10A around 22VDC then it steps it down to 12VDC at around 40A charging
@@DIYKAI one more quick question and I won't bother you again. When you are inverter is off does the PV power still run through the charge controller and charge your batteries? I know the separate units with inverter and charge controller and battery pack you can charge your batteries without the inverter being on because it directly runs through the charge controller the problem is I don't want to have idle consumption with the whole unit on just to charge the batteries. I hope that makes some kind of sense
@@caseykelso1 your fine ask as many questions as you need we are happy to try and help...
Yes, the charge controller will charge the batteries regardless of if the inverter is off or on...the controller we have is separate from the inverter but made by the same company so we have control and a cut-off switch. The all in one units I believe you also have control over inverter on and off and it will still charge the batteries
@@DIYKAI thanks for the feedback most TH-camrs don't write back so I really do appreciate it
@@caseykelso1 Your welcome! Anytime
so out of 600 watt in panels, your highest was 350 watts? what size controller for the 6 panels you using?
Now we get around 540w average we made adjustments….some days we see over 600
MPPT 40A CC
Something is very wrong with this system. You have 600 watts of solar panels. Lets just say they are only 80% efficient which would say they only produce 480 watts of power. If you got 480 watts of power for 5 hours of sunlight, that would produce 2400 watt-hours of power. You only produced 1050 watt-hours of power in one day. That is less than half of what you should be getting out of your panels. You only produced your 480 watts of power for around 2 hours and 10 minutes and zero for the rest of the day. That is way under performing for a 600 watt solar array. Your battery should be fully charged in 1 day of good sunshine. The rule of thumb is the panels should be producing 80% capacity for around 5 hours a day or 600 watts x 0.8 efficiency x 5 hours or 2400 watt-hours of energy or enough to fully charge your battery in one day. You are getting only about 43 percent of that amount of energy.
They are producing over 2k daily now not sure what was wrong that day but we adjusted the mounts and cleaned the panels
Also we are over paneling the charge controller is only rated for 520w on 12v we are going to switch to 24v that way it will handle 1100w
Just checked today it produced 2.270kWh so seems to be on track now
also, this video was made in January the end of winter we have updated the title and will make an updated video this is why the numbers seem off
@@DIYKAI Your production of 2.270lWh of energy for a day is now looking well within the tolerances of the panel efficiency and the daylight hours of energy production. The 80% efficiency of the panels is just an estimate between 90% at the peak of the day for 2.5 hours and 70% for the rest of the day to average around 80%. Yes that will vary between summertime and winter time. The number of hours your panels will produce energy is also an estimate. It can run between 4 and 5 hours of energy production a day. You are now well within all the estimates and doing well. You have fixed your system now. So to answer you question with this video, a 600 watt solar panel array would take about 1.1 days to charge your 12.8V, 200A battery.
What's the point of doing this with a load drawing power at the same time? It is nearly useless information for anyone but yourself.
Just an average system showing average results that’s all
not a god day to do this test
Haha worse case in winter
Your charge settings are ruining your battery lol so change it and please to more research on how to properly charge a lifepo4 battery . Dont use boost mode for one
The cc has preset values it’s been fine for almost a year now. The BMS protects the battery as well
@@DIYKAI yes it protects the battery but it has its limits. Also dont equalise and dont use float mode
We never equalize, with the amount of power we use / generate it rarley floats
@@DIYKAI well rarely isnt good either. It needs to not float
@@j5892000 We appreciate your comments and concerns, but like we said before over 1 year ZERO issues battery is stable and shunt system show no derogation. We will surely update if something happens... BTW every single LIPO manufacturer has their own charging parameters
This is terrible. Over 2 days to completely charge a 200 ah battery.
Please read the title it was winter time now during the summer it’s producing over 2.2kWh daily
The panels you have are not very good…
Not sure why your would think that they produce 520w + daily and spikes over 600w that puts them around 90% efficient and they have been running non stop for 7 months ZERO issues
@@DIYKAI Brian thinks that solar panels are supposed to put out their rated wattage all of the time. It is very rare to ever get the full rated wattage(100watts)and if you come close(90-95 watts), it is when the sun is directly overhead, on a cooler day so the panels don't get too hot, short run of solar cables to the controller and the battery and only for a several minutes as the sun tracks across the sky toward the west. It all depends on the time of year, your panels angle to the sun, whether it's in the morning, noon, afternoon and toward the evening.
Correct which is why we over paneled the controller it accepts 520ish we have 600 and rare does it hit 600 lol sometime people are misunderstood
Please see Revelation 14:12 & 18:23,Please dont let them put the PCR test in you, is alarming what they have shown.
explain how you have a 12 volt battery, yet almost 60 volts input from your panels? is that safe? i have a pwn doing series on panels for 24 volt with series battery
The cc steps it down
High voltage allows the cc to step it down and increase the amps
@@DIYKAI so only a mppt can do that and not a pwm?
Generally yes but some PWMs might….PWM is good for anything upto around 400w of solar after that you want an MPPT. But if you looking for max power MPPT is the way to go plus you get more options like setting values and such
What brand PWM cc do you have
ooh, so 40 amp controller mppt
Yup