Yo just demonstrated the most important skill is processing logs for turning. That is how to visualize the parts that can become a project. I know I fail to look at possible smaller projects rather than one large one. I have several pieces in the shop now that I will re-evalulate. Thank you for sharing and educating.
Well, the first thing I learned is it's time for me to replace my bandsaw blade. ;) Yours cuts so much faster than my 14" bandsaw and it's probably because I am using the blade too long after it loses its edge. I picked up a lot of tips from this video, including your pragmatism about processing the crack in the log: just cut it out. I think I have agonized too much over every little piece of wood and this video may have cured me of that. Thank you.
That's on the list of videos to come. I take the top of each tooth to a high-speed grinder as lightly as I can. A blade can usually take about touch-ups before there's no kerf. With each sharpening the tightness of the curve you can cut dwindles.
I have a Laguna 14BX with foot brake. Are your blade guides the standard ceramic block and if so how far do you tension up the blade when doing heavy work?
Unfortunatley mine is the model just before the footbrake, so I usually bring the blade to a stop by squeezing it between two wood blocks. I tension as recommended by Laguna, using the guide to the left of the upper wheel.
I'm using a ¾-in X 3tpi blade, but often use a ½-in x 3 tpi which cuts a tighter curve. Three per inch so I can resharpen these blades myself on a high-speed grinder, lightly touching the top of each tooth. I can do that 4 to 5 times but each time the kerf narrows.
Why do you need to wait three years for a box blank to equalise, if you can use a bowl blank much sooner? I'm really enjoying your new channel, thanks for making these videos.
The old rule-of-thumb for air-drying is one year per inch of thickness, plus a year, and even then there's no guarantee that a bowl will retain its shape when you hollow out the inside. It's common practice to part-turn bowls, let them season for a few months, the re-turn them. You can do the same for endgrain boxes. I turn 75mm diameter boxes out of wood known for its stability that's at least five years old; 50mm dia. boxes are at least 4 years old adn often much more. In Turning Boxes I go into this in much more detail. I turn a lot of bowls and pots green knowing that they'll warp.
a question, in 13:40 and in other part of the video, Richard put the blank against the blade, whats the purpose? thanks a lot, its very interesting, isnt usuall to see masters preparing blanks.
This bandsaw doesn't have a break, so I'm squeezing the blade to a stop. The later models of the Laguna have a foot break: I purchased mine a month too soon.
It is a ¾-in 4-tpi, mostly used for breaking down logs to short boards. There will be video on that. For cutting bowl blanks I prefer a ⅜-in 3-tpi which goes around bends more easily and is easier to sharpen. I sharpen by touching the top of each tooth to a high-speed bench grinder.
I just processed two walnut logs that had cracks and splits all the way through. They had been sealed, but drying for several years, which I assume was the problem. How soon should I process logs?
I process logs as soon as possible, removing all splits and any defects I defects I don't want in a final piece. This often includes bark and any worrm holes.
I have 3 tpi so I can resharpen myself. I do this on a high-speed grinder barely touching the top of each tooth. It's saved my thousands over the years. I get around five re-sharpenings before the blade breaks. Every resharpening reduces the kerf so in the end they cut little more than a straight line.
Great video! Most I have seen don't explain as well as you and logs are already cut flat so i was happy to see a full log cut down there. Thanks!
Yo just demonstrated the most important skill is processing logs for turning. That is how to visualize the parts that can become a project. I know I fail to look at possible smaller projects rather than one large one. I have several pieces in the shop now that I will re-evalulate. Thank you for sharing and educating.
Well, the first thing I learned is it's time for me to replace my bandsaw blade. ;) Yours cuts so much faster than my 14" bandsaw and it's probably because I am using the blade too long after it loses its edge. I picked up a lot of tips from this video, including your pragmatism about processing the crack in the log: just cut it out. I think I have agonized too much over every little piece of wood and this video may have cured me of that. Thank you.
Might be the basics, but you did a great job talking us through the pros, cons, and your thought process is.
Thank you
Love the interaction, much like master and apprentice😀 Great video both of you
Excellent as always, thank you 😊
Thank you Richard, I am enjoying all your videos, I am fairly new to turning. Cheers Garry
Great to see you out working in your environment, RR! Keep ‘em coming.
Awesome to see your youtube channel , been a fan of your work for many years . Thank you !!
Richard, thanks great videos. A suggestion for a future video is to show how you sharpen your bandsaw blades. Thanks
That's on the list of videos to come. I take the top of each tooth to a high-speed grinder as lightly as I can. A blade can usually take about touch-ups before there's no kerf. With each sharpening the tightness of the curve you can cut dwindles.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning How many touch - ups? Best regards. Oops, sorry I read on, 5 sharpenings.
@@johnmitchell1614 I can resharpen a blade at least three times, and ocasionally four or five if my touch is light enough on the first two or three.
Nice videos, thanks for sharing.
I have a Laguna 14BX with foot brake. Are your blade guides the standard ceramic block and if so
how far do you tension up the blade when doing heavy work?
Unfortunatley mine is the model just before the footbrake, so I usually bring the blade to a stop by squeezing it between two wood blocks. I tension as recommended by Laguna, using the guide to the left of the upper wheel.
Richard, what are you using for a blade to cut this half log with? Thank you
I'm using a ¾-in X 3tpi blade, but often use a ½-in x 3 tpi which cuts a tighter curve. Three per inch so I can resharpen these blades myself on a high-speed grinder, lightly touching the top of each tooth. I can do that 4 to 5 times but each time the kerf narrows.
Why do you need to wait three years for a box blank to equalise, if you can use a bowl blank much sooner? I'm really enjoying your new channel, thanks for making these videos.
The old rule-of-thumb for air-drying is one year per inch of thickness, plus a year, and even then there's no guarantee that a bowl will retain its shape when you hollow out the inside. It's common practice to part-turn bowls, let them season for a few months, the re-turn them. You can do the same for endgrain boxes. I turn 75mm diameter boxes out of wood known for its stability that's at least five years old; 50mm dia. boxes are at least 4 years old adn often much more. In Turning Boxes I go into this in much more detail. I turn a lot of bowls and pots green knowing that they'll warp.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks for the reply!
a question, in 13:40 and in other part of the video, Richard put the blank against the blade, whats the purpose? thanks a lot, its very interesting, isnt usuall to see masters preparing blanks.
This bandsaw doesn't have a break, so I'm squeezing the blade to a stop. The later models of the Laguna have a foot break: I purchased mine a month too soon.
Richard, is that a 3/4” saw blade you are using?
Amos
It is a ¾-in 4-tpi, mostly used for breaking down logs to short boards. There will be video on that. For cutting bowl blanks I prefer a ⅜-in 3-tpi which goes around bends more easily and is easier to sharpen. I sharpen by touching the top of each tooth to a high-speed bench grinder.
I just processed two walnut logs that had cracks and splits all the way through. They had been sealed, but drying for several years, which I assume was the problem. How soon should I process logs?
I process logs as soon as possible, removing all splits and any defects I defects I don't want in a final piece. This often includes bark and any worrm holes.
what are your teeth per inch on your bandsaw blade. I'm enjoying your series of videos. thanks much.
I have 3 tpi so I can resharpen myself. I do this on a high-speed grinder barely touching the top of each tooth. It's saved my thousands over the years. I get around five re-sharpenings before the blade breaks. Every resharpening reduces the kerf so in the end they cut little more than a straight line.
Wish I could justify that saw !
nice timber...