yes smaller batch for sure also not too warm and work quick a minimal stir of resins then powder stir and dump onto job and spread out a bit to absorb heat I always mix my filler rather than the premixed ones more economical for sure.
Yes. I should have also thought better about having the resin so warm since it came out of the heater box, and it wasn’t that cool that day. It is certainly more economical to use the epoxy fairing additive, but I am also anxious to see how much different it is to sand. That will also play a major role in which route I take. But, we will get it figured out. Appreciate it and thanks for following along.
@@Bigeaux20 its all a learning curve I prefer to mix my own because I can vary it to make harder or softer for sanding I use a variety of fillers for various reasons but then compounding coating is my trade as an industrial chemist. The filler itself as in the microballons are the main influence but a small addition of Talcum powder (thats the real stuff not from Mums makeup drawer) is a gamechanger for sandability.
I'm sorry for your loss. I've lost several very close friends through the years. Just remember them. They may be gone but they'll never be forgotten. God bless my friend. And good video.
It’s a little different I admit. But the intent is to make the first cut a little tougher so that it’s easier every step going forward. We shall see how it plays out. Regardless I’ll be honest about how it works.
Well, whenever you like, I live in Miami right in front of Biscayne Bay and 2 miles from the boat ramp. We have Snook, tarpon, bone fish and permit. So you can scratch them of your bucket list!!
That would be awesome. But, be careful, I may take you up on that. I spent some time down in Key Biscayne not too long ago. Ate at some awesome restaurant Novecento. Did a graffiti tour through town that was really interesting as well.
Looking real good. Your notched trowel sounds like the way to go to prevent over loading some spots and under filling where its needed the most. A long sanding board and coarse paper for initial sanding and when the ridges are about gone change to finer paper till you see where you need to fill in any low spots . You might consider changing trowel directions 45-90 degrees for your second coat. If you can you should use the widest spreader as you can on the last coat of filler to only leave the bare minimum of filler just don’t let start hardening on you cause it will pull and drag messing up you surface. I used a cheap 48” aluminum frame level to span high spots and fill in lows on one of my projects just remember to quit soon enough you can still wipe off your straight edge before it kicks off. It can be a real pain to clean once it sets up. Best of luck you are going to have a really nice boat when it’s done.
First to comment, thanks man. Appreciate it. Yeah at this point my plan is to only trowel one time, and then just stick with the longboard to finish the fairing. I have to set my product list but I'm thinking high build, finish primer, and then top coat as my schedule. Like I said, I'd really like a super clean finish, but I would rather spend more time fishing than sanding. And, yes I noticed how hard it was to clean the spreader I was using once some of the compound kicked, so I will be especially careful with that and probably clean intermittently between batches. Thanks for the encouragement. I need all I can get some times.
So sorry to hear about your friend, my condolences. I’ve never seen anyone use a notched trowel but it makes total sense to me. You said you were gonna try that other fairing compound again , I’m curious to see the difference in the application. Again, thanks for sharing your videos. Those were some nice looking bucks. I imagine in order to use dogs on a hunt the property has to be fairly decent size.
Thomas Hawk was an awesome guy and we are reminded of him often. The notched trowel concept is a bit different, but it made sense to me to make sure that after the first step, I would have a defined plane from keel to chine while only having to sand the trowel tips. I may try the other fairing compound at some point, but I don’t want to mix and max at this point just to stay on the safe side, and I know how this compound works and sands. If I swap and it’s twice as hard, I’m going to be kicking myself. That property where we were dog hunting was only about 18,000 acres total. It’s a big piece in the swamp.
I also mixed epoxy fairing filler with resin and had it heat up and set while I was mixing it. The pre-mixed Total Fair is as you noticed, the way to go. I also over applied fairing compound on my first boat and regretted it. For me now, it's just down the slight ridges where it's needed. I've become minimalist.
I have said a few places, that everything I knew about fairing was what I learned from reading and watching videos. There really just isn't any better teacher than experience and actually doing it. When you have to deal with the lumps and humps and it's makes you sand more or work harder, you learn pretty quick. I feel like I know the Total Fair, so I am reluctant to go back to epoxy with fairing compound, but I will try it again at some point. But I will definitely use a slow hardener to have more time. Now that I'm through the winter, I am done with using the medium hardener. Appreciate the tips and thanks for checking it out. That's why I'm doing all the documentation.
I always treat cured fibreglass as if it's blushed regardless , I think it's just always better to wash and re-key the surface when doing anything else after its cured . This really is looking like a nice boat 👌 sorry about your buddy, I know myself working on boats keeps your mind busy at times like this 👍
Appreciate it. This experience will certainly change the way I operate moving forward, but honestly, this is the first time I have used this hardener, so I may just shift back to the slow cure hardener and have less to worry about. I really don't know yet. I will be fairing for a while, and laying big sections of glass are a bit down the road so I have plenty of time to figure that out. Appreciate the comments about Tom. He was as solid a person as ever has been. I've been busy lately so looking forward to getting back on the boat regularly and making progress.
I think the part of the bow that cuts through the water is called the "sheer". It might also just apply to the particular angle of the bow, but I think it refers to the section of the hull you were reffering to. I could be wrong though.
Well I am no expert for certain. But, I believe the piece I was referring to would either be the cut water, stem, or forefoot. Since it’s a stitch and glue plywood build I went with they cut water terminology. The shear, to me, is more associated with where the top of the sides meet the gunwales. I love this conversation because someone will come along and teach us all something I hope. There is a great video with Lou Salzanne (sp?), on the Bristol Shipwrights page that goes over boat terminology.
Yeah if I could go back I would have taken a different path, but I didn't know what I didn't know for certain. But, in the end I am pleased with how things have progressed since then. Appreciate your thoughts on it. Keep it coming.
yes smaller batch for sure also not too warm and work quick a minimal stir of resins then powder stir and dump onto job and spread out a bit to absorb heat I always mix my filler rather than the premixed ones more economical for sure.
Yes. I should have also thought better about having the resin so warm since it came out of the heater box, and it wasn’t that cool that day. It is certainly more economical to use the epoxy fairing additive, but I am also anxious to see how much different it is to sand. That will also play a major role in which route I take. But, we will get it figured out. Appreciate it and thanks for following along.
@@Bigeaux20 its all a learning curve I prefer to mix my own because I can vary it to make harder or softer for sanding I use a variety of fillers for various reasons but then compounding coating is my trade as an industrial chemist.
The filler itself as in the microballons are the main influence but a small addition of Talcum powder (thats the real stuff not from Mums makeup drawer) is a gamechanger for sandability.
I'm sorry for your loss. I've lost several very close friends through the years. Just remember them. They may be gone but they'll never be forgotten. God bless my friend. And good video.
Thanks! He will never be gone. HIs stories live forever. Appreciate it.
The notched trowel sounds crazy to me. But it also make perfect sense. Cool stuff
It’s a little different I admit. But the intent is to make the first cut a little tougher so that it’s easier every step going forward. We shall see how it plays out. Regardless I’ll be honest about how it works.
Well, whenever you like, I live in Miami right in front of Biscayne Bay and 2 miles from the boat ramp. We have Snook, tarpon, bone fish and permit. So you can scratch them of your bucket list!!
That would be awesome. But, be careful, I may take you up on that. I spent some time down in Key Biscayne not too long ago. Ate at some awesome restaurant Novecento. Did a graffiti tour through town that was really interesting as well.
Looking real good. Your notched trowel sounds like the way to go to prevent over loading some spots and under filling where its needed the most. A long sanding board and coarse paper for initial sanding and when the ridges are about gone change to finer paper till you see where you need to fill in any low spots . You might consider changing trowel directions 45-90 degrees for your second coat. If you can you should use the widest spreader as you can on the last coat of filler to only leave the bare minimum of filler just don’t let start hardening on you cause it will pull and drag messing up you surface. I used a cheap 48” aluminum frame level to span high spots and fill in lows on one of my projects just remember to quit soon enough you can still wipe off your straight edge before it kicks off. It can be a real pain to clean once it sets up. Best of luck you are going to have a really nice boat when it’s done.
First to comment, thanks man. Appreciate it. Yeah at this point my plan is to only trowel one time, and then just stick with the longboard to finish the fairing. I have to set my product list but I'm thinking high build, finish primer, and then top coat as my schedule. Like I said, I'd really like a super clean finish, but I would rather spend more time fishing than sanding. And, yes I noticed how hard it was to clean the spreader I was using once some of the compound kicked, so I will be especially careful with that and probably clean intermittently between batches. Thanks for the encouragement. I need all I can get some times.
So sorry to hear about your friend, my condolences.
I’ve never seen anyone use a notched trowel but it makes total sense to me.
You said you were gonna try that other fairing compound again , I’m curious to see the difference in the application.
Again, thanks for sharing your videos.
Those were some nice looking bucks. I imagine in order to use dogs on a hunt the property has to be fairly decent size.
Thomas Hawk was an awesome guy and we are reminded of him often. The notched trowel concept is a bit different, but it made sense to me to make sure that after the first step, I would have a defined plane from keel to chine while only having to sand the trowel tips. I may try the other fairing compound at some point, but I don’t want to mix and max at this point just to stay on the safe side, and I know how this compound works and sands. If I swap and it’s twice as hard, I’m going to be kicking myself. That property where we were dog hunting was only about 18,000 acres total. It’s a big piece in the swamp.
Good stuff. Never thought about using a notched trowel but it makes total sense.
Well it makes sense in theory for sure. Time will tell. Appreciate it. Thanks for watching.
I also mixed epoxy fairing filler with resin and had it heat up and set while I was mixing it. The pre-mixed Total Fair is as you noticed, the way to go. I also over applied fairing compound on my first boat and regretted it. For me now, it's just down the slight ridges where it's needed. I've become minimalist.
I have said a few places, that everything I knew about fairing was what I learned from reading and watching videos. There really just isn't any better teacher than experience and actually doing it. When you have to deal with the lumps and humps and it's makes you sand more or work harder, you learn pretty quick. I feel like I know the Total Fair, so I am reluctant to go back to epoxy with fairing compound, but I will try it again at some point. But I will definitely use a slow hardener to have more time. Now that I'm through the winter, I am done with using the medium hardener. Appreciate the tips and thanks for checking it out. That's why I'm doing all the documentation.
Boat looks good and tough. My condolences for your friend.
He was a good dude! Stories almost every day about him. Boat progress has slowed but it's little by little.
I always treat cured fibreglass as if it's blushed regardless , I think it's just always better to wash and re-key the surface when doing anything else after its cured . This really is looking like a nice boat 👌 sorry about your buddy, I know myself working on boats keeps your mind busy at times like this 👍
Appreciate it. This experience will certainly change the way I operate moving forward, but honestly, this is the first time I have used this hardener, so I may just shift back to the slow cure hardener and have less to worry about. I really don't know yet. I will be fairing for a while, and laying big sections of glass are a bit down the road so I have plenty of time to figure that out. Appreciate the comments about Tom. He was as solid a person as ever has been. I've been busy lately so looking forward to getting back on the boat regularly and making progress.
I think the part of the bow that cuts through the water is called the "sheer". It might also just apply to the particular angle of the bow, but I think it refers to the section of the hull you were reffering to. I could be wrong though.
Great build, btw!
Well I am no expert for certain. But, I believe the piece I was referring to would either be the cut water, stem, or forefoot. Since it’s a stitch and glue plywood build I went with they cut water terminology. The shear, to me, is more associated with where the top of the sides meet the gunwales. I love this conversation because someone will come along and teach us all something I hope. There is a great video with Lou Salzanne (sp?), on the Bristol Shipwrights page that goes over boat terminology.
The shear is the top of the rail.The tip is the stem which creates the cutwater.
@user-nx1qf7hs5o I knew someone would eventually come along and get us straight. Appreciate it.
I'm sorry for your loss.
Appreciate it.
Goodjjob
Wa too much fairing compound .Notched trowel just adds way more material then needed.Ver wasteful for sure
Yeah if I could go back I would have taken a different path, but I didn't know what I didn't know for certain. But, in the end I am pleased with how things have progressed since then. Appreciate your thoughts on it. Keep it coming.