Solenoid latch worked out good and removal of all the clutter really helped . If mine the next thing I would do for looks would be remove the bumper over rides and rebuild the bumper brackets or make new ones to move the bumper in closer to the body . Even a splash shield like the front bumper added in would give in a more custom look .
More mouse nests...it never ends! New nickname...the Mousecury! Popper worked out great! Alot easier this time! Thanks for sharing the Napa button switch info! Nice work on the filler neck! Go Iron Trap, keep moving forward!
Mabe a flat steel hard line instead of a wire. Cotter pin through the bolt could hold it . that way you can drill holes in the flat bar to adjust the length.
I wonder if you would have had to use a spring to help the deck lid pop up if a valve spring from a lawn mower motor would work. Smaller diameter and less strength than a flathead spring. Are you planning on shaving the back bumper? JMO but it looks way out there especially since youve done the roof. Really enjoying this build.
Be sure to run a dedicated ground wire from the solenoid to the car chassis. Otherwise you are grounding through a hinge or the latch and could have problems in the future.
Did something similar on my 62 falcon build. I strategically placed gas struts on the hinges. With an electric solenoid released the latch. Works great. I get that the struts might not be era correct for your build. But they could be hidden.
In doing these can't fail electrical situations, I run a separate ground wire to bypass any potential lack of ground caused by corrosion or moving surfaces. Your metal work is top notch.
Hi Matt from Australia ! As a retired Auto Electrician, may I suggest a couple of things. NEVER rely on the trunk hinges as a good earth for the solenoid. Run a power wire, AND an earth wire to the solenoid. Earth it somewhere at the rear parcel shelf. You can get more mechanical advantage from the bolt at the latch being longer. Also, from the button on the dash, use a relay. AND - for the internal filler cap, how about a spill funnel created around the neck? Like the cone of shame dogs have to wear after a trip to the vet; with a drain hole to the floor. Saves making a mess of future nice trim in there. Cheers.
Loved the longer episode! A lot of cool problem solving too. Steve is a great helper. Always nice to have even a brief Kate sighting as well. P.S. there is a guy here with a knife forcing me to ask about the rear bumper. Lol
Looking great , guys. If the solenoid set up starts hanging up, you might consider polishing the latching surfaces to reduce friction. Like a nice "trigger job" on a gun. Of course I can't see how smooth the surfaces are now. When you were sanding to fill the holes and got into bondo, I thought, "Oh no, here we go again but he's gonna have to cut the trunck lid apart". Obviously this car has previously been given cosmetic repairs at some point. We can all breath a sigh ofrelief that you didn't "ruin a pristine example". Lol
Could you get in that hole you were sticking you hand in to pull stuff out and push up where you said the welding warped it. I’ve seen those guys do that when they do the paintless dent repair. I think you could do it and massage it out a little bit with a homemade tool. Car is looking amazing. Waiting patiently to see what kind of cool taillights you come up with. 👍
Nice mods , cleaning the slate ! That trunk popper worked great , with minimum extra work . I like the gas filler relocation to inside the trunk too . Those mice got everywhere . Still amazed at the difference in the way it looks . Great work , Matt ! See you on the next one , guys !
I usually have alittle trouble getting to sleep, so I watch videos on my phone. The custom work on the Mercury and the 38 Ford is write up my ally. Your idea of an early custom and mine are very much the same. Watching you work doing old school body work is like going back to the late 40s, and watxhing Sam Barris restyling a 39 Merc. I am at the old fart stage of life, and I am really enjoying watching you guys. I have messed with cars since I my 51 Fleetline I got at 15. I have gone back to where started, the stuff I work on now is built AMT. Thanks for entertaining and educating us so well......Ron York
Agreed. As long as it is stranded cable, it will continue to stretch. Even if he gets it right initially, he needs something like a throttle linkage setup, but on a smaller/lighter scale.
The villain in that assembly looked like the small loop of crimped wire. There was a fair bit of flex there, absorbing some of the solenoid's travel. A rigid bolt, or piece of steel, in place of the wire loop would stop that. Either way, great to see it all working in the end. I have a feeling there'll be a future video of rusty trunk lid skin and body-filler being replaced with new metal.
Matt, looking good! 👍👍Consider elongating the (4) solenoid mounting holes for more adjustment and adding spacers to the two rear holes to better 'align' the solenoid angle to the cable pull? Will there be a gravel pan? What taillights are planned? Bob
You may want to slot the mounting holes in the solenoid bracket so you can take the slack out of the cable. Just an idea. Like the project. Good videos.
That solenoid is very intrusive into the trunk / boot space. If you mount it a little higher, where the latch handle used to be, it will sit close to the lid , and the tension wire will be parallel to the lid frame.
If that’s the worst thing about the car we’re doing ok.. up higher there isn’t any access to mount the a threaded insert or way to tighten a nut on a bolt as the bracing is tight against the skin. We’ll add an upholstery cover when the car is “done”. But honestly it doesn’t matter much as a custom rarely has the trunk or hood open…
@IronTrapGarage Yes Matt the car is great.... You could make a plate that covers the hole in the lid reinforcement inner frame,, and mount it by welding nuts on the accessible outer face of the frame. That way the plate is a little proud of the frame, and you can bolt or weld the solenoid bracket to the plate. Just an idea.....
Matt any thoughts on frenching in the license plate? Or has the work you've just completed eliminate that possibility? This has been the most interesting build so far for me.
Eastwood panoramic helmet. It has a blue hue to the lens that is better than the green. But I’ve also had to start wearing reader glasses to help with seeing the weld seam. First signs of getting old!
QUESTION: I’m sure this is the stupid question of the day. Pardon me, I’m a neophyte. Where do you find the insulation/sound deadener material you’re using in the trunk hood? I want that look!
I've always had problems trying to loop a cable that way. I go straight to an adjustable rod, like a throttle linkage. It won't stretch out and can adjust. The bolt used on the latch is a good idea , but rods are better than cable.
👀 Maybe one of those '80's pedestal 3rd brake lights. Red plastic. But on the roof, with deer whistles. 😂😂😂 Hahaha. At my best trolling for the crazy commenter critics. Love pretty much everything you do. ❤ THANK YOU for sharing every choice, every adventure. 🙏🙏👍
Is it that important to have a push button pop up trunk? My old Toyota has a hand cable pull at the foot of the front seat. A little pull and the trunk opens flawlessly every time. No need for power and wires. Your car; your choice!
Matt, that word is "solinoid, not silinoid, so, sol not sil . Yes I know I misspelled it. It is pronounced "sole, not sile such as you pronounce it. Just trying to help.Your idea is very helpful, cudos to you. Also, I wanted to say, for a first time effort your "chopped top" is really impressive. I wish I had your talent, or even could develop it.
We always pronouced it sawl-i-noid, not sole-i-noid so each part of the country says it different. The Pennsylvania pronouncing is not correct, kind of like the Brits can’t talk right after our ancestors came to America, Pennsylvanians can’t talk right after our ancestors migrated west. 😂😂
Stillers=Steelers, inat=and that, hoam=home, jimmys=ice cream sprinkles, and so many more that I can’t remember right this minute. I was born in South Louisiana, but I have deep roots in Pittsburgh.
Solenoid latch worked out good and removal of all the clutter really helped . If mine the next thing I would do for looks would be remove the bumper over rides and rebuild the bumper brackets or make new ones to move the bumper in closer to the body . Even a splash shield like the front bumper added in would give in a more custom look .
It’s all on the list.
Love the channel, never miss an episode. Especially like the low drama work environment. Each of you compliment the other. Great job
Thanks for watching!
More mouse nests...it never ends! New nickname...the Mousecury! Popper worked out great! Alot easier this time! Thanks for sharing the Napa button switch info! Nice work on the filler neck! Go Iron Trap, keep moving forward!
Thanks for watching!
Can't wait to see it finished. It's screaming black with flames to me!
Mabe a flat steel hard line instead of a wire. Cotter pin through the bolt could hold it . that way you can drill holes in the flat bar to adjust the length.
Always enjoy the intense Matt work face. Great work. Fun to just soak in.
I wonder if you would have had to use a spring to help the deck lid pop up if a valve spring from a lawn mower motor would work. Smaller diameter and less strength than a flathead spring. Are you planning on shaving the back bumper? JMO but it looks way out there especially since youve done the roof. Really enjoying this build.
Bumper will stay but be tucked and modified
Be sure to run a dedicated ground wire from the solenoid to the car chassis. Otherwise you are grounding through a hinge or the latch and could have problems in the future.
Yep we ended up adding one after the video
An endoscope would help to see inside the body panels , to search for damage and debris.
Did something similar on my 62 falcon build. I strategically placed gas struts on the hinges. With an electric solenoid released the latch. Works great. I get that the struts might not be era correct for your build. But they could be hidden.
In doing these can't fail electrical situations, I run a separate ground wire to bypass any potential lack of ground caused by corrosion or moving surfaces. Your metal work is top notch.
Good call, it's always a good idea to make sure you have a good ground!
Hi Matt from Australia ! As a retired Auto Electrician, may I suggest a couple of things.
NEVER rely on the trunk hinges as a good earth for the solenoid. Run a power wire, AND an earth wire to the solenoid. Earth it somewhere at the rear parcel shelf.
You can get more mechanical advantage from the bolt at the latch being longer. Also, from the button on the dash, use a relay. AND - for the internal filler cap, how about a spill funnel created around the neck? Like the cone of shame dogs have to wear after a trip to the vet; with a drain hole to the floor. Saves making a mess of future nice trim in there. Cheers.
Loved the longer episode! A lot of cool problem solving too. Steve is a great helper. Always nice to have even a brief Kate sighting as well. P.S. there is a guy here with a knife forcing me to ask about the rear bumper. Lol
Haha!
Nice job Matt and Steve! Maybe a choke cable or hood release cable to open the trunk in case the battery goes dead and you need to get to the cooler!
I’m a model a guy but I love the work you guys are doing on the merc 👍🏻👍🏻🏁🇺🇸
Thanks for watching!
Looks good. Great job!
Thanks!
Looking great , guys.
If the solenoid set up starts hanging up, you might consider polishing the latching surfaces to reduce friction. Like a nice "trigger job" on a gun. Of course I can't see how smooth the surfaces are now.
When you were sanding to fill the holes and got into bondo, I thought, "Oh no, here we go again but he's gonna have to cut the trunck lid apart".
Obviously this car has previously been given cosmetic repairs at some point.
We can all breath a sigh ofrelief that you didn't "ruin a pristine example". Lol
So nice to watch guys who really know what they're doing. Any plans for up front, maybe shaving the hood?
Yes we plan to clean up some trim on the hood. Gonna finish up all of the back end stuff first
Could you get in that hole you were sticking you hand in to pull stuff out and push up where you said the welding warped it. I’ve seen those guys do that when they do the paintless dent repair. I think you could do it and massage it out a little bit with a homemade tool. Car is looking amazing. Waiting patiently to see what kind of cool taillights you come up with. 👍
Nice mods , cleaning the slate ! That trunk popper worked great , with minimum extra work . I like the gas filler relocation to inside the trunk too . Those mice got everywhere . Still amazed at the difference in the way it looks . Great work , Matt ! See you on the next one , guys !
Thanks for watching!
I usually have alittle trouble getting to sleep, so I watch videos on my phone.
The custom work on the Mercury and the 38 Ford is write up my ally. Your idea of an early custom and mine are very much the same. Watching you work doing old school body work is like going back to the late 40s, and watxhing Sam Barris restyling a 39 Merc. I am at the old fart stage of life, and I am really enjoying watching you guys. I have messed with cars since I my 51 Fleetline I got at 15. I have gone back to where started, the stuff I work on now is built AMT. Thanks for entertaining and educating us so well......Ron York
Thanks for watching! We’re glad it’s reminiscent of the good ol days of customs and hot rods!
Could you use a threaded rod or a rod/clevis for that latch? That could take out your slop and be adjustable.
Agreed. As long as it is stranded cable, it will continue to stretch. Even if he gets it right initially, he needs something like a throttle linkage setup, but on a smaller/lighter scale.
The villain in that assembly looked like the small loop of crimped wire. There was a fair bit of flex there, absorbing some of the solenoid's travel. A rigid bolt, or piece of steel, in place of the wire loop would stop that. Either way, great to see it all working in the end. I have a feeling there'll be a future video of rusty trunk lid skin and body-filler being replaced with new metal.
Good work man.... it's looking good
Thanks 👍
Checked my notification and yes my favorite video. great explanation as you went along. Awesome job Matt !!👍👍
Appreciate you watching!
Matt, looking good! 👍👍Consider elongating the (4) solenoid mounting holes for more adjustment and adding spacers to the two rear holes to better 'align' the solenoid angle to the cable pull? Will there be a gravel pan? What taillights are planned?
Bob
This will come in handy for my 47 merc coupe 👍
Nice job figuring out the issue I am planning on doing the same thing to my 40 Merc.
Thanks, I hope it helps!
Love the progress, the merc is looking amazing. Love this video series. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Appreciate you watching!
Those mice are cute, but there is a good reason they are called vermin! Fun education watching you reason through the latch, enjoyed the episode 🎉
Thanks for watching!
Getting the trunk latch to work well on my 40 ford coupe was most frustrating. Had to send grandson through interior to release twice.
That's what they're for.😅
Two really great mods! Both turned out 👌🏻
Fabulous episode, really enjoyed the whole process.
Whats next, loose the bumper?
Love as Always, Reading, England.
Tuck the bumper
We will tuck and modify the bumpers eventually
I am really enjoying this series!! The Merc is looking awesome.
Appreciate you watching!
Looks good.
One it Wonder! Cheers!
You may want to slot the mounting holes in the solenoid bracket so you can take the slack out of the cable. Just an idea. Like the project. Good videos.
Looking pretty good so far will be cool to see how the car turns out
Chop the bumper brackets and bring them in. Look in the cavities with a bore scope.
It’s on the to do list. One thing at a time
Thanks for another , Brother !
Hey Matt, is it feasible to insert an actual turnbuckle into the wire and solenoid?
Nice work on the trunk popper.
Matt you should wear PPE when grinding, especially with old paint that potentially has lead.
Great video. What are your plans for the rear bumper?
Modified or changed. But definitely tucked
That solenoid is very intrusive into the trunk / boot space. If you mount it a little higher, where the latch handle used to be, it will sit close to the lid , and the tension wire will be parallel to the lid frame.
If that’s the worst thing about the car we’re doing ok.. up higher there isn’t any access to mount the a threaded insert or way to tighten a nut on a bolt as the bracing is tight against the skin. We’ll add an upholstery cover when the car is “done”. But honestly it doesn’t matter much as a custom rarely has the trunk or hood open…
@IronTrapGarage Yes Matt the car is great.... You could make a plate that covers the hole in the lid reinforcement inner frame,, and mount it by welding nuts on the accessible outer face of the frame. That way the plate is a little proud of the frame, and you can bolt or weld the solenoid bracket to the plate.
Just an idea.....
Use your shop vac w/ some heater hose or fuel line taped to the end of the hose to get into those tight places .
thanks guys1
I don't know if you have made a decision on tail lights, but I was thinking 1951 Lincoln. Round and already sunken in a bit. Period correct too.
Dang! More mousey goodness found in the Mouse House Merc!??! But seriously, another great video on this project. Thanks!
Appreciate it!
Hi i like the latch you have added to the boot lid Q will you be frenching it it in to cover it over
Will have upholstery cover it someday.
🔥😎👍 Great work. At this point I'd be naming it "Mighty Mouse".
That’s a great name!
Curious to see your tail light treatment and how they did it back in the day.
I’ll make sure to show how the tail lights were done when it's time!
Matt why not slot holes in mounting plate you could take out slack in cable
Matt any thoughts on frenching in the license plate? Or has the work you've just completed eliminate that possibility? This has been the most interesting build so far for me.
Nope going on the bumper
MY MAMA ALWAYS SAID, LIFE IS LIKE A BOX 0F CHOCOLATES, YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT YOUR GONNA GET!!😅😅
It would be great to see this car go forward as a Gene Winfield custom, taildragger with Lakers, decent paint & pinstripes.
great vid
Those bolts with the hole in them are probably for hood hinges. My 54 ford had ones like that
I believe you are correct! Have the same ones on my '46 Business Coupe!
Dude!! Nice mods!!! Don't try out the roll-over vent!! I heard it doesn't turn out will!! Lol!!✌️
Haha definitely don’t want to try it!
What kind of helmet it that you are using? I am having a hard time seeing with mine.
I had to add helper lens to my helmet. My vision isn't so good anymore. It also takes a good clean lens. Sucks getting!
Eastwood panoramic helmet. It has a blue hue to the lens that is better than the green. But I’ve also had to start wearing reader glasses to help with seeing the weld seam. First signs of getting old!
Car is looking good. I guess I missed it, but what tail lights are you going with?
Not sure yet. Still to be determined
That needs shorter brackets and a DeSoto bumpers. Fantastic work!
It’s getting some customization of the bumpers. Video coming soon!
Will there ITG be doing the bodywork in the future? Inquiring minds want to know! Have a great week see you Friday!
Just might!
steve miller band ( mercury blues )
Will you be installing original Columbia controls? I’d like to see that, I haven’t tackled that yet on mine.
Nope. Using a electric vacuum switch kit
Please don’t lower it too much.😊 looking great so far mate
It’ll get lowered an appropriate amount
Maybe a spring for the bottom of a oil filter
Are the rear fenders going to be leaded in?
Eventually they may
QUESTION: I’m sure this is the stupid question of the day. Pardon me, I’m a neophyte. Where do you find the insulation/sound deadener material you’re using in the trunk hood? I want that look!
It’s original 1939 ford
I sure hope you have a kick ass paint job put on that like a Mercedes black that is one bitching ride.😊 Let me tell you.
It’ll be painted again yes
Saw a lot of filler go up in dust when you first hit it with the grinder.
Yep
I hope you tuck the bumper in
One thing at a time. It’s on the list.
Why not use a solid rod instead of that floppy wire to get the slack out?
I've always had problems trying to loop a cable that way. I go straight to an adjustable rod, like a throttle linkage. It won't stretch out and can adjust. The bolt used on the latch is a good idea , but rods are better than cable.
have you ever thought about tucking the bumpers?
It’s on the to-do list. One thing at a time
Matt can you get the bumper a little closer to the body.
It’s on the list. One thing at a time
Do you not get gas fumes in trunk?
Not when the gas tank cap is sealed and the vent is elsewhere (aka wheel well)
I used the latch & cable off a honda so i don't need battery power to open the trunk
Hi from Australia first to press like
Bore scope!
kool.
👀 Maybe one of those '80's pedestal 3rd brake lights. Red plastic. But on the roof, with deer whistles. 😂😂😂
Hahaha. At my best trolling for the crazy commenter critics. Love pretty much everything you do. ❤
THANK YOU for sharing every choice, every adventure. 🙏🙏👍
Haha that sounds great!
When do we find out how bad the trunk lid is?
Future video
😃😃😃
I'd ditch the cable and use a small rod on the solenoid
You could try a piece of insulation support wire like used to hold insulation between floor joists in crawl spaces
I would use a rod instead of a cable....no stretch. just an idea
Why use a cable ? Why not a metal rod ? The slack is killing it.
Will we be painting the car ?
Yep.
So put a turn buckle in it, and call it good.
😎💙👍
Pingady pop
Valve springs work well for poppers.
We’ve done it before. You cut the spring down.
I really like that bumper but it needs to be sucked up tighter to the body. It just sticks out too far.
It’s on the list. One thing at a time…
PS. lock washers don't work, except as a spacer.
Push the bumper near the body...
One thing at a time… it’s on the list. Can’t build the car all in one video like fake drama reality shows.
You just needed a little fire.
Single cable, loops on both ends already..
New Camera or what? Or did you clean the lens? lol jk
Is it that important to have a push button pop up trunk? My old Toyota has a hand cable pull at the foot of the front seat. A little pull and the trunk opens flawlessly every time. No need for power and wires. Your car; your choice!
It doesn’t need it but it would be an ultra long cable on a car this big to run all the way to the front.
Matt, that word is "solinoid, not silinoid, so, sol not sil . Yes I know I misspelled it. It is pronounced "sole, not sile such as you pronounce it. Just trying to help.Your idea is very helpful, cudos to you. Also, I wanted to say, for a first time effort your "chopped top" is really impressive. I wish I had your talent, or even could develop it.
That’s our Pennsylvania accent. Anythin’ else is wrong!
We always pronouced it sawl-i-noid, not sole-i-noid so each part of the country says it different. The Pennsylvania pronouncing is not correct, kind of like the Brits can’t talk right after our ancestors came to America, Pennsylvanians can’t talk right after our ancestors migrated west. 😂😂
Stillers=Steelers, inat=and that, hoam=home, jimmys=ice cream sprinkles, and so many more that I can’t remember right this minute. I was born in South Louisiana, but I have deep roots in Pittsburgh.
Tomatoes- Tomitoes
someone needs to brush up on their regional dialect, PfuckinA!!
The Bumpers need to go
It would look terrible with no bumpers.