@@carbide3d LOL I can't decide which one I like better... oh wait, that's easy, here we get to see and hear you, and also hear, you don't have to share the airtime. So HERE is the vote for me! keep up the great work!
I used this procedure to reduce the thickness of a piece of MDF for a cabinet door I was making with inlays. I took about 1/4 of an inch on one side, did the recess of the inlay design and left it on my CNC overnight. The next morning, when I took it out, the piece of MDF was so warped, it looked like banana. The only explanation I could come up with is that the MDF had absorbed a lot of moisture from a hot and humid South Florida garage, while the backside was laying flat on the CNC bed and had the factory coating. Moisture came in from one side and not the other. I have flattened many boards for signs using this procedure. Works well.
@@hebe1792 whenever I do a major material removal flattening or 3D relief, I always leave clamped either to CNC or solid panel overnight to let it climatize and set its position/shape
I use this process for flattening end-grain cutting boards after gluing. Presumably not as efficient as drum sanding, but it doesn't require such efficient dust collection either.
when setting x,y and z on a piece of stock like this thats all wonky, correct me if im wrong but you cant use the bit setter or the bitzero and have to do it manually correct?
You can always use bitsetter. BitZero is not as handy given that you want to exceed the size of your stock in X and Y. Additionally, the low point of your stock may not be on a corner nor large enough to set your BitZero into to get an accurate reading. Manual Z setting is the best plan.
A 1/2” shank does not fit in the 65mm spindle. That spindle has a 1/4” limit. If you want to run 1/2” tooling you’ll need the 80mm water cooler spindle.
Kevin I was super surprised to watch the Girls USA volleyball Olympic coverage and hear your voice. Who knew? AWESOME!
You learn a secret today! It’s the rare overlap of CNC and VB
@@carbide3d LOL I can't decide which one I like better... oh wait, that's easy, here we get to see and hear you, and also hear, you don't have to share the airtime. So HERE is the vote for me! keep up the great work!
I used this procedure to reduce the thickness of a piece of MDF for a cabinet door I was making with inlays. I took about 1/4 of an inch on one side, did the recess of the inlay design and left it on my CNC overnight. The next morning, when I took it out, the piece of MDF was so warped, it looked like banana. The only explanation I could come up with is that the MDF had absorbed a lot of moisture from a hot and humid South Florida garage, while the backside was laying flat on the CNC bed and had the factory coating. Moisture came in from one side and not the other. I have flattened many boards for signs using this procedure. Works well.
@@hebe1792 whenever I do a major material removal flattening or 3D relief, I always leave clamped either to CNC or solid panel overnight to let it climatize and set its position/shape
I use this process for flattening end-grain cutting boards after gluing. Presumably not as efficient as drum sanding, but it doesn't require such efficient dust collection either.
It also doesn't require a drum sander!
would you mind sharing where the 1/2" bit came from? thanks for this great video
Purchased at a local cabinet shop.
A raster area cleararance would be much better for the McFly Cutter then you can run off the side edges so there is no slow down corner burning
Agreed
Very cool!
when setting x,y and z on a piece of stock like this thats all wonky, correct me if im wrong but you cant use the bit setter or the bitzero and have to do it manually correct?
You can always use bitsetter. BitZero is not as handy given that you want to exceed the size of your stock in X and Y. Additionally, the low point of your stock may not be on a corner nor large enough to set your BitZero into to get an accurate reading. Manual Z setting is the best plan.
Can also just use tape CA glue and shims
100%.
What clamps are you using?
Our Crush it Essentials: shop.carbide3d.com/collections/workholding/products/crush-it-essential-clamp
And the Crush it Pro clamps: shop.carbide3d.com/collections/workholding/products/crush-it-pro
sweet i didnt realize you can enter mm when in imperial
It’s a super handy small trick.
Can you use a traditional 2in surfacing bit?
It depends on the shank size and the power of your spindle.
@@carbide3d How about with the 65mm VFD spindle and 1/2" shank?
A 1/2” shank does not fit in the 65mm spindle. That spindle has a 1/4” limit.
If you want to run 1/2” tooling you’ll need the 80mm water cooler spindle.
Tramming looks off too !!
Well John, we do take a significant number of parts on and off of our machine. Consequently, the amount of time it spends “trammed” is very small.
So you don’t even need a planer or a jointer if you own this thing, do ya. 😅😂
You can certainly choose not to use it! We opted to use the CNC over the planer on our next build.
First!
Volleyball.
😂