Thanks for the great wiring instructions. However I have to say something I learned the hard way. Buy an adjustable heat solder iron, and if possible use lead rosin core solder with a fan to pull the smoke away from your nose, otherwise using the lead free solder requires more heat. Also if you ever use a iron for melting plastic or other materials; often that tip will not work so well for solder without severe cleaning, or replacing the tip. The Weller wire type irons used to be great quick heat and solder tool but the copper tips don't seam to be easy to buy anymore, at least when I used one often back about 30 years ago. Long lower heat on a solder point will destroy the item or the wire insulation or the circuit board.
Just thought of something else weird with flyer and their reversing unit. It is on all the time even when locked out it is still powered. Their lock out is actually a locking up type and I wonder if that is how that brass guide gets a nick in it from being locked up. When I rewire mine, I will plan on putting in an electrical switch to turn off the reversing unit, as the lock out..
Thanks for the great wiring instructions. However I have to say something I learned the hard way. Buy an adjustable heat solder iron, and if possible use lead rosin core solder with a fan to pull the smoke away from your nose, otherwise using the lead free solder requires more heat. Also if you ever use a iron for melting plastic or other materials; often that tip will not work so well for solder without severe cleaning, or replacing the tip. The Weller wire type irons used to be great quick heat and solder tool but the copper tips don't seam to be easy to buy anymore, at least when I used one often back about 30 years ago. Long lower heat on a solder point will destroy the item or the wire insulation or the circuit board.
That really smokes! Nice job on repair. All new parts and wiring is the only way to go!
Just thought of something else weird with flyer and their reversing unit. It is on all the time even when locked out it is still powered. Their lock out is actually a locking up type and I wonder if that is how that brass guide gets a nick in it from being locked up. When I rewire mine, I will plan on putting in an electrical switch to turn off the reversing unit, as the lock out..
Good info especially on the differences in the wire harnesses and the new reversing unit finger contacts being too long, mine were also.
Why can't the people that make those contacts for the drum get it right? It's not that difficult of a concept to understand.
You're smoke output seems a bit high. What's your setting?