Great advice but just a word of caution, the hot sparks stick to powder coating and zinc and will turn to rust at the first sign of moisture so if the appearance of the job matters then make sure the sheet is dry and mask off a wide area either side of your cut with tape and cardboard to stop the sparks from sticking. Cheers.
Ha, we had this problem on an office building. Site-ground metal railing above powder coated cladding. Rust all over the cladding, then we realised what had caused it. good advice.
I need to cut some corrugated steel siding and I put on a 1/16 inch steel cutting angle grinder wheel. It lasted all of 6 ft for a 4 1/2 in wheel. I thought damn this is going to be expensive to cut 50 ft. Went into the store saw that they made diamond wheels and pulled up this video to confirm that would work and your video was perfect confirmation for what I needed. I'm on my way home with my $15 wheel that looks like it's going to save me a ton of money thank you.
Hi John . . . Following on from my earlier comment 7hrs. ago - Let you know - Just cut 40 sheets using a diamond cutter - - absolute piece of cake - - Great tip & thanks again . Have a good one .
Try a Skill saw (circular saw) with an old wood blade turn backwards. It works great, faster and you have the convenient guide sites to follow a straight line. Try it and do a video how it works.
I have been installing sheathing of every different profile for over 31 years. 3rd Generation in my family to do it. If you can afford a nibbler that's what you use to make horizontal cuts across the corrugations. 4 lengthwise Cuts use a tool called double cuts. Milwaukee, DeWalt, make them. The best nibbler is Fein, but they are about eight hundred and fifty bucks. DeWalt makes a pretty good one for about 350. the best double cut shear is Kett. They'll run you about 130 to 150. If you're not going to be doing it a lot and don't want to spend the money, a skill saw will do it. Don't turn the blade around like some people try to tell you. Just had a face shield and some earplugs handy. As far as corrugated metal being an Australian icon, the major manufacturers are all located in the United States. NCI Building Systems is the largest in the world now. They own mbci. I was over their engineering, estimating, and drafting for 6 years. Whirlwind, Butler, berridge Manufacturing, Varco Pruden, all United States companies. Now the 2.67 like he is cutting in this picture is made by a lot of backyard boys because it's a very generic panel. But a very good panel for what it's used for.
Richard N? at NCI sold me the red iron home we still live in today. Nice man. 25 years ago steel was easier and cheaper than wood. Our red iron came on five semis, 56 tonnes, I was amazed. I wish I'd gotten galvanized steel, the chlorine from "my wife's pool" has me busy at times working on rust.
@@dedrickbroussard9797 the drill attachement nibbler i tried was waaay too slow. for commercial install (likke fencing) has to be fast so i would have thought skill saw with light ferris steel blade to be optimal
Nibbler struggle with IBR sheets, due to the sharp corners. Concealed fix sheets are impossible to cut with a nibbler. A drill nibbler works slightly better for IBR. A nibbler is unbeatable for flat sheets.
There's a blade for skilsaw that only has a dozen or so, slots from the outer edge towards the center & no teeth. As it spins it cuts off little notches of the sheet metal. It's made specifically for light ferris sheet metal. I have had the one blade for about 30 years, & cut thousands of feet of up to 18gage sheet metal panels.
That’s what I was taught 50 years ago. Faster, safer and you have the guide sites on a circular saw to follow a straight line. Grinders in inexperienced hands is dangerous.
Great info. I did find something interesting. Those "other" cut off wheels are actually great for cutting plastic, Plexiglas, and acrylic lighting panels.
Hello Mr. John! I’m a new sub and wanted to share a tidbit for keeping your diamond blade working really well. I use them in rock cutting and the heat produced tends to melt materials, get stuck in the diamond grit, and stops cutting well. Another Downunder person said to run it through a brick and it will remove the melted stone. So far it works great. I’m not sure that will help you much working with corrugated iron, but I wanted to pass it on as a really helpful tip that may give your discs more longevity. Regards...
No worries at all! My Shed Plans brings me up to speed with professional tips and tricks used by the pros [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. It really let me learn how to handle carpenter equipment, follow the right safety rules, and how to do your projects professionally so that they will look good and last!
EXCELLENT TIP SIR!! IMO the best advantage is that the steel blade wont "grenade" when it y=twists or gets wedged. They don't call those grinding disks "wheels of death" for nothing! They are extremely dangerous when cutting material like that corrugated metal.
I had no idea that you could use a masonry wheel for corrugated iron. I did use one the other day because I only had one cut to make ( and couldn’t be bothered going to K and D just for a cut off wheel) . It cut just as well but all the time I was thinking “am I ruining the expensive masonry wheel?”. Like you, I cut a lot of sheet metal so I might keep one wheel for metal and another strictly for tiles and the like. This was a revelation to me. Keep up the good work and all the best from South Hobart
If you pulled the grinder towards you while cutting (or start where you finished) it will not be riding up every now and again - more control and a bit safer - not a big deal on thin metal like this I agree - but a better practice for all similar cuts on any thickness of material.
True. Pushing the grinder proved more difficult to control, and the cutting disc kept pinching resulting in awkward kick-backs. But when pulled, it’s like a hot knife through butter.
i tried a worn out 100mm diamond blade. i was having trouble getting into the valleys because of the small diameter. i tried a 125mm blade but it was too big and snagged and jumped on the rising section. we see this happening in the video. so i went back to the 100mm blade. it is a smoother cutter. also, the narrower the better. the worn out blade has no diamonds left on it. this cutter also leaves less chunks of cut material on the surfaces which will cause future rust problems. i also trim the rough edges with a curve backed file. this is important. it removes rusting points which will spread onto your good roof. this cleaned up end is as if cut with snips which 'close' the end preventing rusting.
Darn, all that money I have spent on those fiber wheels and I had the diamond version just sitting there doing nothing....suffice to say come tomorrow I am changing my blades, thank you.
and yes didn’t notice any change in the disc size as stated, I was most surprised at the speed it cut considering I’d used the other discs he mentioned that shrank in size, I even tried the nibbler! Much appreciated the advice given!
This is just AMAZING..I have been looking for a way to cut through a 2.5 m corrugated sheet which I needed to cut into thirds widthwise. Your advice was taken and the angle grinder this time went through like a hot knife through butter. Exactly the right disc for the job..Thank you so much..
so today oct14,2020------- i bought one of those discs ------they cut the corrugated metal no problem at all------i was half way through my project i went much much better with the wheel --thanks from canada --loews clipped me for 35 bucks
Yeah, angle grinders like yours with the correct cutting wheels makes it easy, but if you want it even easier than trying to keep an angle grinder straight on your mark, use a skill/circular saw with a 7" DeWalt metal blade, or the even better one for it is the 7" Diamond wheel it'll make your job 50x easier. They are expensive, about $60.00 for the silver diamond blades made by Dewalt and Irwin.
Thanks for the info, I have 2 x 10,000L corrugated iron water tanks to cut up for the dump and was planing to use the 1mm wheels and the good news is I already have a few of the diamond wheels.
Work gloves and power tools do not mix. Put your gloves on when you put down your power tool - agreed. Clothing/gloves tends to snag if caught and will drag your body parts in. Same for all loose clothing and power tools/machinery - bad idea. As an apprentice turner/fitter in the early 80's we were forced to cut off out overall sleeves precisely for this reason.
Yeah, I've had one of those in my drawer for cutting tile also, shouda known, that diamond tip will last forever as long as you don't try to cut another diamond blade with it.
I think it works as the iron is thin and dissipates the heat sufficiently. It would be no good on steel bar etc where the heat wouldn’t get away from the cut area.
This is great to cut a few sheets, but if you have to cut 100 or 1000 sheets, get a Dewalt DCS496B - it will cut thru that roofing in about 8 seconds and won't pull your arms off in the mean time!
I just used the tinsnips to cut through three ribs then a pair of rigging gloves plant one steel booted foot on one side of the cut line and pull the other up towards you it cuts right off as quick as when you get the feel for it.
I use a power saw. Same one I use for sheets of plywood. Cuts like a hot knife through butter. Even better if it's tungsten tipped. I also use it for 2 & 3 ml aluminium sheets.
If it was to be used on a roof the manufacturer would not cover it under warranty as you should never hot cut roof sheets as it causes rust. always cold cut roof iron.
With the modern thin grade corrugated iron you can rip it across by hand. Just make a short cut with tin snips at the start point then put your foot on one side of the cut to hold the iron down and with both hands pull the other side up towards you. Practise on some old scraps. In no time you will be able to tear accurate straight lines Easy peasy. Thick grade not so easy.
I just did a comparison, a diamond wheel costs $25.00, a fibre disc costs $1 each, (If you buy a pack). So I'll give it a try, and see what the cut looks like and check the effort required. I would have never thought to try but, here goes.
For a simple straight cut across corrugated iron, lay it flat on the ground then cut a 70 to 100 millimetre cut at the edge of the iron with some tin snips at the point where you want the corrugated iron divided. Then put your foot on the sheet on one side of where you have the starter cut and pull on the edge on the opposite side of the cut until it rips and it continues all the way across. The tear will be so close to straight you will be amazed. Try it you will wish you knew this earlier. In my experience it only works on corrugated iron and only when you tear it across the corrugations . I also recommend wearing protective gloves using this technique. Let me know your thoughts after you have tried it ...
HAHA Wow. Watching this video before a trip to Bunnings. Considering a nibbler or some other tool. And it turns out I already have, in my shed, one of these cutting wheels John showed. Thanks!
I agree - tried all types and Diamond is the only way to go! But...how do you keep the edges from rusting for galvanized Tin, etc - any recommendations?
Maybe let a man choose for himself. I’m not against PPE but I don’t use it unless I actually have a need. You make the decision that’s right for you and I will do the same for myself.
How did the old plumbers cut sheets lengthways?. I read in a roofing manual that cutting with tinsnips will cause the gal coating to spread across the cut but not if cut with a disc. Does this apply to cutting zinc-alume as well?. Discs leave dust which rusts and stains the sheets if not washed off thoroughly.
I use the snip and rip Method. Snip an inch long slit, stick your foot on the sheet and rip It the rest of the way. Roofing iron rips easily across the ribs.
much easier to use an old worn wood circular saw blade backwards in a circular saw. Its easier to run this along a clamped straightedge guide. the circular saw guide helps it stay same depth across the corrugations.
so easy when fairly flat; try some with mountains and valleys 3" hi. 8 cm hi needs 6" grinder; jig saw blades will break that hi up over the valley. have to dry the diamond wheel with 6" grinder.
To be honest any Hot Cut pushes zinc and aluminium out of the steel. At 0.42 of a mm you just voided the warranty on the bluescope steel. Teach people to Cut and peel with offset snips. I personally can Cut it quicker than installing a blade onto the grinder. Hot cuts are Lazy, dangerous and damaging not ozzie. 12 years sheet metal working.
@@budinatordmanb3808 I don't care what he is making. He is telling people to bastardise a good material by hacking it with a power tool, when a pair of offset snips would have done the job in less time not to mention you can tear a sheet in half if it has a 25mm cut in the side. I'd consider that more Australian. What would you do bud use your hairdressing scissors ? I don't appreciate my fellow countrymen teaching people to be lazy and dangerous in the name of sound advice.
I’m wondering if cutting roofing iron with diamond blade makes it rust as quickly as it does with an abrasive disk. Tho unless u are really close to the sea with lots of salt air like me, you may not be the on to ask
Just finished 1.8m of corrigated iron - zink (color or type?). Long ways. Sparks everywhere. Face, neck, arms, hands, legs and socks. The deeper you cut the less sparks. And I pulled instead of pushing. Maybe pushing would be less sparks. Should I spray or paint the cuts with Zinc Gal?
Apart from rust issues mentioned, you notice the grinder trying to climb out of the cut, pull it towards you, or against the rotation of the blade, otherwise, as many have said here, this is not the best method for cutting corrugated iron.
John, are you serious? Score corrugated iron with a razor blade and then snap it? You are pulling too many leg and pulling youself!! There is a big difference between scoring fibre sheet which is flat by the way and scoring currugated iron crossway!!!😆
I'm a roofer and I've scored panels with roofing screws in a pinch before and it will snap even using the tip of screws as a knife. It takes a few passes over the metal using screws though. Brand new titanium straight blades work best. It is easier to just use turbo sheer attachments or better yet use a pair of the Milwaukee snip style sheers you can't score and snap metal cuts that are not straight and a lot of gables on older homes are far from straight.
No way is this some sort of Magic ? I just spent 10 minutes nibbling a 1.8 meter sheet of pretty thick iron, will give it a crack tomorrow morning and see how it goes. All the videos If seen of it working seem to be very thin colourbond sheets though, not the thicker stuff
I can't believe what I'm seeing with that naked hand so close to that spinning disc. Wowsers. The emergency department always shakes its (figurative) head at seeing such stuff ...
As a Australian Builder for over 45 years, yes, I agree, or air shears as they tend to "pinch" the cut and help prevent rusting of the open metal. Terms as "corrugated" iron are obsolete as the material is now "zincalume steel" in this profile is called custom orb. Sheet steel is no longer made of "galvanised iron" as in the 'old days'.... The poster states "cut iron lengthwise" in his description, but actually cuts across the sheet, he would not get a job with my company.... Homesteading DownUnder -stop being a "hack" and showing how ignorant you are as a Aussie, really. Giving Bad Advice is Not useful to others. It can cause harm...
Yes, they do. An old blade can be used for cutting iron (a bit rough)...or you can buy special metal cutting saw blades for circular saws. Cost about $70 AU.
My personal experience is that it is the "burr" (sharp bits) which will rust if you use a hot cutting wheel. This happens with all types of wheel that I have used. Remove the burr with a file to avoid this - also wipe any metal residue off the sheet immediately. Of course as many have observed using "hot" cuts violates any warranty you may have on new materials. But in many cases this isn't relevant.
I am not in the construction industry nor am I a carpenter, I wanted a good guide to help with small projects such as small sheds and some remodeling around the house. So there’s a magic which is Shed Plan [ visit here *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. This Shed Plan covers all my instructions from top to bottom in a step by step manner.
Great advice but just a word of caution, the hot sparks stick to powder coating and zinc and will turn to rust at the first sign of moisture so if the appearance of the job matters then make sure the sheet is dry and mask off a wide area either side of your cut with tape and cardboard to stop the sparks from sticking. Cheers.
Huh?😳 And I just cut mine the same way he did, with the same cutting disc after I saw this video.🙆🏻♂️
Ha, we had this problem on an office building. Site-ground metal railing above powder coated cladding. Rust all over the cladding, then we realised what had caused it. good advice.
Riotooeoi
looks less sparks than a metal disk, but yes many miss this as theyre not too visible, either cover or some roofers wipe with metho
@@Turtleback8024 Ah well, wot's done is done... have you got any rusty flecks yet?
I need to cut some corrugated steel siding and I put on a 1/16 inch steel cutting angle grinder wheel. It lasted all of 6 ft for a 4 1/2 in wheel. I thought damn this is going to be expensive to cut 50 ft. Went into the store saw that they made diamond wheels and pulled up this video to confirm that would work and your video was perfect confirmation for what I needed. I'm on my way home with my $15 wheel that looks like it's going to save me a ton of money thank you.
Hi John . . . Following on from my earlier comment 7hrs. ago - Let you know - Just cut 40 sheets using a diamond cutter - - absolute piece of cake - - Great tip & thanks again . Have a good one .
Bought one today and still going after about 32 cuts. Love it!!
Try a Skill saw (circular saw) with an old wood blade turn backwards. It works great, faster and you have the convenient guide sites to follow a straight line. Try it and do a video how it works.
Yes, but bloody noisy.
I have been installing sheathing of every different profile for over 31 years. 3rd Generation in my family to do it. If you can afford a nibbler that's what you use to make horizontal cuts across the corrugations. 4 lengthwise Cuts use a tool called double cuts. Milwaukee, DeWalt, make them. The best nibbler is Fein, but they are about eight hundred and fifty bucks. DeWalt makes a pretty good one for about 350. the best double cut shear is Kett. They'll run you about 130 to 150. If you're not going to be doing it a lot and don't want to spend the money, a skill saw will do it. Don't turn the blade around like some people try to tell you. Just had a face shield and some earplugs handy. As far as corrugated metal being an Australian icon, the major manufacturers are all located in the United States. NCI Building Systems is the largest in the world now. They own mbci. I was over their engineering, estimating, and drafting for 6 years. Whirlwind, Butler, berridge Manufacturing, Varco Pruden, all United States companies. Now the 2.67 like he is cutting in this picture is made by a lot of backyard boys because it's a very generic panel. But a very good panel for what it's used for.
Richard N? at NCI sold me the red iron home we still live in today. Nice man.
25 years ago steel was easier and cheaper than wood. Our red iron came on five semis, 56 tonnes, I was amazed.
I wish I'd gotten galvanized steel, the chlorine from "my wife's pool" has me busy at times working on rust.
@@dedrickbroussard9797 the drill attachement nibbler i tried was waaay too slow. for commercial install (likke fencing) has to be fast so i would have thought skill saw with light ferris steel blade to be optimal
Nibbler struggle with IBR sheets, due to the sharp corners. Concealed fix sheets are impossible to cut with a nibbler. A drill nibbler works slightly better for IBR. A nibbler is unbeatable for flat sheets.
There's a blade for skilsaw that only has a dozen or so, slots from the outer edge towards the center & no teeth. As it spins it cuts off little notches of the sheet metal. It's made specifically for light ferris sheet metal. I have had the one blade for about 30 years, & cut thousands of feet of up to 18gage sheet metal panels.
Wa type, info plz
Installing a circular saw blade backwards on your circular saw does great job also. Plus a little bit more control.
AND A WHOLE LOT CHEAPER>>> PLYWOOD BLADE. PUT IT ON BACKWARDS
I heard this too. Might need to try this!
That’s what I was taught 50 years ago. Faster, safer and you have the guide sites on a circular saw to follow a straight line. Grinders in inexperienced hands is dangerous.
I am struggling to see how this would work or be safe
+1 on this but make sure you're using GOOD hearing protection doing this, it's bloody loud!
Great info. I did find something interesting. Those "other" cut off wheels are actually great for cutting plastic, Plexiglas, and acrylic lighting panels.
I honestly enjoy the comments/arguments more than the video itself..thank you for this
Hello Mr. John! I’m a new sub and wanted to share a tidbit for keeping your diamond blade working really well.
I use them in rock cutting and the heat produced tends to melt materials, get stuck in the diamond grit, and stops cutting well. Another Downunder person said to run it through a brick and it will remove the melted stone. So far it works great. I’m not sure that will help you much working with corrugated iron, but I wanted to pass it on as a really helpful tip that may give your discs more longevity.
Regards...
No worries at all! My Shed Plans brings me up to speed with professional tips and tricks used by the pros [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. It really let me learn how to handle carpenter equipment, follow the right safety rules, and how to do your projects professionally so that they will look good and last!
@@rotesritog3900 look at you go! That affiliate marketing course will be paid for in no time! 😂
EXCELLENT TIP SIR!!
IMO the best advantage is that the steel blade wont "grenade" when it y=twists or gets wedged. They don't call those grinding disks "wheels of death" for nothing! They are extremely dangerous when cutting material like that corrugated metal.
I had no idea that you could use a masonry wheel for corrugated iron. I did use one the other day because I only had one cut to make ( and couldn’t be bothered going to K and D just for a cut off wheel) . It cut just as well but all the time I was thinking “am I ruining the expensive masonry wheel?”. Like you, I cut a lot of sheet metal so I might keep one wheel for metal and another strictly for tiles and the like. This was a revelation to me. Keep up the good work and all the best from South Hobart
If you pulled the grinder towards you while cutting (or start where you finished) it will not be riding up every now and again - more control and a bit safer - not a big deal on thin metal like this I agree - but a better practice for all similar cuts on any thickness of material.
True. Pushing the grinder proved more difficult to control, and the cutting disc kept pinching resulting in awkward kick-backs. But when pulled, it’s like a hot knife through butter.
Thanks for the tip! We all stand to learn a bit from each other if we can just sit still and listen
i tried a worn out 100mm diamond blade. i was having trouble getting into the valleys because of the small diameter. i tried a 125mm blade but it was too big and snagged and jumped on the rising section. we see this happening in the video. so i went back to the 100mm blade. it is a smoother cutter. also, the narrower the better. the worn out blade has no diamonds left on it. this cutter also leaves less chunks of cut material on the surfaces which will cause future rust problems. i also trim the rough edges with a curve backed file. this is important. it removes rusting points which will spread onto your good roof. this cleaned up end is as if cut with snips which 'close' the end preventing rusting.
Darn, all that money I have spent on those fiber wheels and I had the diamond version just sitting there doing nothing....suffice to say come tomorrow I am changing my blades, thank you.
and yes didn’t notice any change in the disc size as stated, I was most surprised at the speed it cut considering I’d used the other discs he mentioned that shrank in size, I even tried the nibbler! Much appreciated the advice given!
This is just AMAZING..I have been looking for a way to cut through a 2.5 m corrugated sheet which I needed to cut into thirds widthwise. Your advice was taken and the angle grinder this time went through like a hot knife through butter. Exactly the right disc for the job..Thank you so much..
so today oct14,2020------- i bought one of those discs ------they cut the corrugated metal no problem at all------i was half way through my project i went much much better with the wheel --thanks from canada --loews clipped me for 35 bucks
I just reverse my blade on a regular lumber skill saw , works fine and much safer mate !
U mad bro
Nice demo. And you used the grinder safely with the guard on. 👍👍👍👍
Yeah, angle grinders like yours with the correct cutting wheels makes it easy, but if you want it even easier than trying to keep an angle grinder straight on your mark, use a skill/circular saw with a 7" DeWalt metal blade, or the even better one for it is the 7" Diamond wheel it'll make your job 50x easier. They are expensive, about $60.00 for the silver diamond blades made by Dewalt and Irwin.
I use what you use and it's been cutting great so far!
Thanks for the info, I have 2 x 10,000L corrugated iron water tanks to cut up for the dump and was planing to use the 1mm wheels and the good news is I already have a few of the diamond wheels.
Thank you for the great tip!
I like to wear my leather work gloves and my safety goggles when cutting tin sheets.
wimp
@@ismaelsosa2817 kid
Work gloves and power tools do not mix. Put your gloves on when you put down your power tool - agreed. Clothing/gloves tends to snag if caught and will drag your body parts in. Same for all loose clothing and power tools/machinery - bad idea. As an apprentice turner/fitter in the early 80's we were forced to cut off out overall sleeves precisely for this reason.
Thanks for that. I have been getting through the normal metal discs like anything. Will try it next week, From Cyprus
Yeah, I've had one of those in my drawer for cutting tile also, shouda known, that diamond tip will last forever as long as you don't try to cut another diamond blade with it.
Thank you. We need this expertise for cutting our sheet metal for our chicken coop.
Keep up the good work.
In Christ,
Mrs. Carrielee Long
You're most welcome!
I think it works as the iron is thin and dissipates the heat sufficiently. It would be no good on steel bar etc where the heat wouldn’t get away from the cut area.
This is great to cut a few sheets, but if you have to cut 100 or 1000 sheets, get a Dewalt DCS496B - it will cut thru that roofing in about 8 seconds and won't pull your arms off in the mean time!
This is a much better option than a nibbler because it has more uses than just cutting metal nice video.
I just used the tinsnips to cut through three ribs then a pair of rigging gloves plant one steel booted foot on one side of the cut line and pull the other up towards you it cuts right off as quick as when you get the feel for it.
thank you John ,I love corrugated iron and I am an artist .have some ideas ,but cutting is a nightmare .
I use a power saw. Same one I use for sheets of plywood. Cuts like a hot knife through butter. Even better if it's tungsten tipped. I also use it for 2 & 3 ml aluminium sheets.
If it was to be used on a roof the manufacturer would not cover it under warranty as you should never hot cut roof sheets
as it causes rust. always cold cut roof iron.
Yep. Use nibblers
With the modern thin grade corrugated iron you can rip it across by hand. Just make a short cut with tin snips at the start point then put your foot on one side of the cut to hold the iron down and with both hands pull the other side up towards you. Practise on some old scraps. In no time you will be able to tear accurate straight lines Easy peasy. Thick grade not so easy.
Best idea ive heard all day
I just did a comparison, a diamond wheel costs $25.00, a fibre disc costs $1 each, (If you buy a pack). So I'll give it a try, and see what the cut looks like and check the effort required. I would have never thought to try but, here goes.
be interesting to know if the cut edge has more or less burrs on it from either. in this vieo looks like this masonry wheel leaves a lot of dags
For a simple straight cut across corrugated iron, lay it flat on the ground then cut a 70 to 100 millimetre cut at the edge of the iron with some tin snips at the point where you want the corrugated iron divided.
Then put your foot on the sheet on one side of where you have the starter cut and pull on the edge on the opposite side of the cut until it rips and it continues all the way across. The tear will be so close to straight you will be amazed.
Try it you will wish you knew this earlier.
In my experience it only works on corrugated iron and only when you tear it across the corrugations .
I also recommend wearing protective gloves using this technique.
Let me know your thoughts after you have tried it ...
HAHA Wow. Watching this video before a trip to Bunnings. Considering a nibbler or some other tool. And it turns out I already have, in my shed, one of these cutting wheels John showed. Thanks!
Very informative and straight to the point, great video
I agree - tried all types and Diamond is the only way to go! But...how do you keep the edges from rusting for galvanized Tin, etc - any recommendations?
Good one . . . thank you very much - just about to start cutting a load of sheeting . Thanks again .
That was really satisfying to watch! Thank you.
For corrugated roofing I use a circular saw with a wood blade. Just turn the blade around and it will cut fast and true.
Nibblers? Diamond wheels? Metal cutting disks? Simply insert an old blade backwards into your circular saw and you'll cut corro like butter!
Wear ear plugs though. Loudest way to cut metal by far.
You can buy a metal cutting blade for in your circular saw for less than ten bucks
This little trick will also allow you to cut through cement board also without ruining your saw blade.
And your ear drum melts like butter too. I found this is the best way.
Great suggestion, might want some ppe though and clamp that sheet down, if it bites it could get ugly
Maybe let a man choose for himself.
I’m not against PPE but I don’t use it unless I actually have a need. You make the decision that’s right for you and I will do the same for myself.
cowboy from down under, iron will rust fast get some shears
Thank you John ! I'd a never thunk it. Like cutting butter !
Nice !! Bout to get started on a colourbond fence your advice will come in handy as I have to cut the panels cheers Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie !!
How much? I only have one project and don't know if it will be worth buying a diamond blade.
Take you a skill saw blade turn it around backwards and it does perfect on tin
What is a skill saw blade?
Can you do a demo of cutting lengthwise please and thank you ☺️
Great information as I will be cutting cladding will by one thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺🚜
straight to the point and great information. Thanks so much
How did the old plumbers cut sheets lengthways?. I read in a roofing manual that cutting with tinsnips will cause the gal coating to spread across the cut but not if cut with a disc. Does this apply to cutting zinc-alume as well?. Discs leave dust which rusts and stains the sheets if not washed off thoroughly.
I use the snip and rip Method. Snip an inch long slit, stick your foot on the sheet and rip It the rest of the way. Roofing iron rips easily across the ribs.
Thanks for the heads up, John….
much easier to use an old worn wood circular saw blade backwards in a circular saw.
Its easier to run this along a clamped straightedge guide.
the circular saw guide helps it stay same depth across the corrugations.
so easy when fairly flat; try some with mountains and valleys 3" hi. 8 cm hi needs 6" grinder; jig saw blades will break that hi up over the valley. have to dry the diamond wheel with 6" grinder.
I don't know, man. Looks like it's burning your sheet.
Now THIS is useful posting! Many thanks.
ok I will try it...what model and number? Is it a 1375A ?
Thanks for posting this.
They are now selling diamond wheels that say they are for metal.
Saw them at Home Depot just recently.
Yes, I bought one recently, they work fine too.
Not gonna lie, that was a pleasing cut to watch.
To be honest any Hot Cut pushes zinc and aluminium out of the steel. At 0.42 of a mm you just voided the warranty on the bluescope steel. Teach people to Cut and peel with offset snips. I personally can Cut it quicker than installing a blade onto the grinder. Hot cuts are Lazy, dangerous and damaging not ozzie. 12 years sheet metal working.
hes making a garden you tosser think he cares about warranty
@@budinatordmanb3808 I don't care what he is making. He is telling people to bastardise a good material by hacking it with a power tool, when a pair of offset snips would have done the job in less time not to mention you can tear a sheet in half if it has a 25mm cut in the side. I'd consider that more Australian. What would you do bud use your hairdressing scissors ? I don't appreciate my fellow countrymen teaching people to be lazy and dangerous in the name of sound advice.
I’m wondering if cutting roofing iron with diamond blade makes it rust as quickly as it does with an abrasive disk. Tho unless u are really close to the sea with lots of salt air like me, you may not be the on to ask
Hi Can I use this blade for cutting Colorbond
Yes you can, just be aware that it will void any warranty it may have - if that matters to you.
Just finished 1.8m of corrigated iron - zink (color or type?). Long ways. Sparks everywhere. Face, neck, arms, hands, legs and socks. The deeper you cut the less sparks. And I pulled instead of pushing. Maybe pushing would be less sparks. Should I spray or paint the cuts with Zinc Gal?
Cut any way that directs the spark stream away from you. Just remove the burr from the edge in order to stop rust.
Apart from rust issues mentioned, you notice the
grinder trying to climb out of the cut,
pull it towards you, or against the rotation of the blade,
otherwise, as many have said here, this is not the best
method for cutting corrugated iron.
You could always scribe it with the edge of a sharp chisel. That's how we did all our rips in the day.
Can I use old Coloured colourbond fencing to make garden beds?
I found this excellent video by accident. Can I use one of these diamond discs in a circular saw? Cheers.
If using a circular saw it would be better to use a metal blade - such as www.bunnings.com.au/irwin-184mm-48t-metal-circular-saw-blade_p6370367
Thanks for the great information.😀
never thought of that!! thnx, Jose
Yeah right cheers mate. Appreciate the share!!!!
Seriously? I find all these videos cutting lengthwise! Score it with a razor knife and break it!!!! Yes metal!
John Rodgers You are correct sir. But you need a fresh blade and a bit of strength. I keep telling them at work and they look at me all crazy.
John, are you serious? Score corrugated iron with a razor blade and then snap it? You are pulling too many leg and pulling youself!! There is a big difference between scoring fibre sheet which is flat by the way and scoring currugated iron crossway!!!😆
I'm a roofer and I've scored panels with roofing screws in a pinch before and it will snap even using the tip of screws as a knife. It takes a few passes over the metal using screws though. Brand new titanium straight blades work best. It is easier to just use turbo sheer attachments or better yet use a pair of the Milwaukee snip style sheers you can't score and snap metal cuts that are not straight and a lot of gables on older homes are far from straight.
No way is this some sort of Magic ? I just spent 10 minutes nibbling a 1.8 meter sheet of pretty thick iron, will give it a crack tomorrow morning and see how it goes. All the videos If seen of it working seem to be very thin colourbond sheets though, not the thicker stuff
Scoring metal with a knife works on 29 and 26 gague metal I haven't tried it on 24 gague standing seam panels yet though
I usually make a cut with the snips then tear it off
I can't believe what I'm seeing with that naked hand so close to that spinning disc. Wowsers. The emergency department always shakes its (figurative) head at seeing such stuff ...
I use a skill saw blade I just flip it around and it will cut it like butter.
A better option is to use a nibbler, using a cutting wheel will cause rust to the panel.
As a Australian Builder for over 45 years, yes, I agree, or air shears as they tend to "pinch" the cut and help prevent rusting of the open metal.
Terms as "corrugated" iron are obsolete as the material is now "zincalume steel" in this profile is called custom orb. Sheet steel is no longer made of "galvanised iron" as in the 'old days'....
The poster states "cut iron lengthwise" in his description, but actually cuts across the sheet, he would not get a job with my company....
Homesteading DownUnder -stop being a "hack" and showing how ignorant you are as a Aussie, really. Giving Bad Advice is Not useful to others. It can cause harm...
Great tip, thanks
Thank you, this really helps a lot.
So where is the cutting lengthwise demo?
why do people keep suggesting the use of a "skill" saw? Do you guys mean a circular saw??
Yes, they do. An old blade can be used for cutting iron (a bit rough)...or you can buy special metal cutting saw blades for circular saws. Cost about $70 AU.
Great tip thanks mate
Doesn't the heat generated by the grinder remove the galvanisation where the cut is made? if so that will start to rust pretty soon?
My personal experience is that it is the "burr" (sharp bits) which will rust if you use a hot cutting wheel. This happens with all types of wheel that I have used. Remove the burr with a file to avoid this - also wipe any metal residue off the sheet immediately. Of course as many have observed using "hot" cuts violates any warranty you may have on new materials. But in many cases this isn't relevant.
back the front skilsaw blade works too
That was a great video and a helpfull tip
I will try this
I used to cut sheet metal with my 4” grinder until my son gave me a Makita sheet metal nibbler for my birthday.
I could of cut that sheet with Midwest hand snips in a quarter of the time it took to grind it off
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Great tip!
How longs your hand going to last
Hi John , how good a quality finish on the end cut does this leave , ie could this be at the viewable gutter end ?
Much the same as any other cut-off wheel. It does have a little more "burr" which of course needs to removed for safety and to stop rust.
Great Information, thanks
I’m share this knowledge with hubby. 😃
Put a plywood blade in a circular saw back wards will do to faster and cheaper!
Great advice. Thanks you so much