I really hope you can do this full time! Its amazing to see what you can get done with limited time! I cant even imagine the things you could get going if you had more time. Keep up this amazing work
This Guy is unbelievable. Everytime I think "Man,it's time to call a professional" he pulls out some kind of Caveman Tool outa somewhere and in the next moment, he makes it work. Absolutely brilliant! Autodidakt. Best regards from Germany
Your perseverance must be applauded! Too deep to stop now, and a world record would not only showcase your work, but could prove to be lucrative down the road.
A note about that particular unamed oxidising acid, eventually it will make the container brittle and the contents end up on the floor, personal experience. telltales are the inside of a red or blue cap becomes white. It does not attack most aluminium, I use it to remove broken bolts from aluminium.
i seriously hope you get to do this stuff fulltime! I have only been watching for a few weeks now since i wanted to know more about two-stroke engines. But i already know i wil definitly be watching your channel for a while! 100K subs is a huge milestone and it only gets better from this point on! Hope you do well.
Ive been watching for about a year now I guess, I will say that your in a difficult spot for your TH-cam channel, you need 5 days a week 8hrs a day to make the content that is needed to attract people to the channel to support itself. You also need the viewers and patrion support large enough to support yourself so you can go that route... the only thing I can recommend is possibly finding some other smaller 2 stroke projects or motorized projects you can work on while waiting on parts to trickle in. I personally would like to see some crazy multi cylinder 2 stroke pocket rocket bikes ect just for fun. I am rooting for you and I would really like to see what would come of the channels growth and your creative independence, I just hope you don't burn out in the process of getting it there
You deserve to work on stuff you like full time, your videos are really entertaining and I personally find it great education since im not that used in 2 stroke engines such as 4 stroke thank you for uploading such great content! Hope you can achieve your goals good luck :)
One thing about casting, take a large propane or natural gas torch with a ~3 inch head on it and preheat your molds before you cast the part. When you cast into a cold mold it doesn't pour well as it want's to instantly harden when it hits the mold. It also can lead to vapor bubbles on the surface of your part. A preheated mold will come out with a much nicer part. Another VERY common throttle plate material (it's used in all Holley carbs) is brass. When acids stop working warm them up, just don't heat nitric too hot or it'll start turning into dinitrogen which is that lovely red cloud that is extremely toxic and extremely corrosive.
Well you pleased this people.. I am completely hooked on this project.. It would be nice if you could work on it full time.. nice for you, nice for us.. I want to see you break some records!!! I never really messed with 2 strokes much.. being a child of the 50's, 60's and 70's I was into v-8 4 stroke hot rods.. Oh I played with a few dirt bikes for fun.. But my passion was cars.. I am learning now about what I missed out on now.. so thanks for teaching this old dog some new tricks.. Carry on.. be very safe.. and we will see you on the next video..
I want to say that I thoroughly love watching your videos. The way you take complicated things and do them in such a simple way it shows others that it can be done with what we have right in our own shops. I am really hoping you can do this full time because I'm building some of my own equipment based off of many of your ideas / designs. I can't wait to see all the new projects you have planned in the years to come. With all the great comments I really cannot overlook something that to me is not mentioned nearly enough and that is personal safety and well being. After following your video's from the beginning believe me I know what you can do so please understand what I write next is ONLY because I truly care about a fellow enthusiast so here it goes... I'm an old school automotive machinist by trade so I have similar equipment, machines and tools like you have. Something you will need to write on your wall next is PPE SAVES LIVES. If you are going to do this full time, 5 days a week, 8 hours a day ( and you lock the shop on weekends no matter what ) then this will be how you will make your living. If you will be the sole owner / operator of your shop YOU will be responsible for YOUR own safety and personal well being. Safety is more of an immediate thing like it happens in the moment where if we do this without doing that first then something generally bad will happen immediately afterwards resulting in the wife taking us to the hospital ( on numerous occasions ). Our well being is more like a long term event that happens to our general health and personal well being over time. Something like the long term affects chemical exposure to the skin or lungs. Right now there may just be a little coughing and hacking up black crap or having a little skin irritation that goes away in a few days. Fast forward 10 years from now when it's not a rash anymore but nerve damage ( Varsol parts cleaner etc... ) and then your manhood falls off... Good safe habits need to start now if you want to be in this game for the long haul my friend. You cannot be putting your hands into various chemicals ( acetone etc.. ) like you are doing because you are starting to get comfortable with some VERY VERY toxic things in your shop. Not only are these chemicals toxic to you but they are also toxic to whoever they come into contact with like maybe your family. I saw you are rinsing chemicals off on the floor, they can build up over time and if you step on the residue it could possibly be tracked to other areas of your shop or maybe into your home, washing machine etc. Cross contamination is super serious with what you have in your shop so understand your MSDS ( SDS ) sheets and live by them or you could easily die by them. Some chemicals are not only toxic but interactive with other chemicals in your shop like "definitely not nitric acid" and such. Getting busy cannot be a reason to be careless in the shop with use, storage or disposal and your definitely going to be busy if you do this full time.. Your excitement is already showing :) Remember this your skin is like a sponge, whatever you get on it or get your hands into is absorbed through your skin and into your blood stream sorta like Ben Gay, Icy Hot and any other topical solution. Also protect your skin and keep it covered while welding. The HIGH intensity radiation coming off the arc will cause a sunburn affect and over time can cause skin cancer. MOST OF ALL protect your eyes at all costs doing anything that can take them out because you can't ride if you can't see. One of those rubber lab aprons would really be a good idea around the nasty stuff and ALWAYS wear an eye covering that would protect your eyes if the liquid was forcefully thrown into your face. A face shield over the goggles and respirator is best, overkill is never a bad thing. This leads to another very important thing which is your lungs. If you were to get a good breath of something that maybe shouldn't be there for safety reasons and there were to be an incident you could be rendered unconscious, fall hit your head then everyone involved will be lets just say... involved. This leads to the next thing if something were to happen do you have a way to let someone know to come help you because it seems you are the only one in your shop most of the time. Ventilation should be a priority for you especially in the colder months with your propane heater and the types of fuels that you are going to be experimenting with. The fuel itself is toxic but when burned and inhaled or mixed through combustion with other things it could be very instantly deadly. I also saw that you are using a propane heated in your closed shop, they burn up the oxygen and you can start getting severe headaches and black out. You are only out in your shop for 2 hours a night a few nights a week now but if your out the 5 days a week for 8 hours ( year right ) a day it could start to become a concern with low oxygen levels. COVID is bad enough with the masks we don't want to make it worse. I guess my whole point is this, you are heading in a direction that only spells bigger, better, faster, more ( 4 non blonds?? ) so you need to put safety first because what you are doing in your home shop is the type of thing that is mostly done in very controlled environments or done in an actual lab environment with proper safety precautions, proper storage procedures and proper damage control if things go sideways because that IS NOT the time to realize your not prepared. I have an eye for things and when I see too many stack up other things will inevitably start to happen like sparks from welding / grinding fly into a bucket / container of chemical and the chain reaction starts. IF ANYTHING happens in your home shop you absolutely need to be prepared because it could shut your whole operation down maybe permanently if you have a fire. Years ago in my own shop I lit off a full trash can of titanium shavings / strings because in a hurry the lid was not put back on properly. I was using a side grinder to cut off a piece of metal in the vise and NEVER realized where the sparks were going. The trash can of titanium scrap was on the other side of the shop no where near where I was grinding so I never even thought to look. There are special fire extinguishers for different things including flammable metals which I did not have. The can, titanium scrap and my underwear were toast but I managed to save the shop. I just remember when I turned around I never saw a flame that bright in my life, it was almost to the ceiling and the can was cherry red... It was a damn near religious experience. It happened one other time at a place I was working, someone grabbed a shop vac and started sucking up the titanium shavings around their chip hopper. I guess the fine fine shavings ignited inside the shop vac and with the forced airflow it didn't end well... You would never think it could happen I'll tell you but just go talk to the guy with the shop vac, imagine when he turned around it was like a flame thrower. So anyway, last last I'm not sure what the laws and regulations are in Norway but you are dealing with people worldwide so just be mindful of everything that comes into your shop and the potential risks and hazards accompanied with them. Please be safe and keep making these great innovative videos. Your thoughts and ideas are definitely stirring up thoughts and ideas of my own :) Take care and God Bless from USA
Acid fumes is not only bad to breath it can also attack and rust anything that's iron in that room so that's also a reason to be careful with it inside a workshop.
@@simont3686 I have a big problem with that it would mean I have to get things out again to use them again which takes even more time leave it out until you are definitely not going to need it for a while that's my logic 😁
Here in the US you can buy nitro in different percentages for rc cars and plane engines. I used to but it by the quart. Just an idea. Keep up the good work.
Please no it would not be boring to see a timelaps of you cleaning up the place! Cleaner envierment better and faster productuion one day when you are full time and this engine is no longer a prototype id like to buy one if you ever decide to mass produce them all that research and work is worth a lot would love to see that on one on my builds
You have been really consistent lately and I am really loving it! Having been a part of this journey for more than 3 years I am really happy about your recent successes and I hope you archieve your dream of getting that engine to work and of doing this full time! Proud of you dude!
I wish youtube goes great for you and he start daily uploading, cause theese videos haave been very interesting snd informative and I've learnt alot. Thank you!
It's a translation, so I don't know if it will be transmitted correctly. It seems that you think that the compression pressure is low, but at present it is a good pressure. Since the height of the exhaust port is high, I think that the upper limit is 4Kgf / cm2 to 5Kgf / cm2 considering the combustion chamber and cylinder compression volume. I think that the compression pressure cannot be known unless there is exhaust pressure when the engine is actually operating. What is the distance from the top of the exhaust port to the top of the cylinder? It looks like 12-13mm from the screen of the PC. When I calculate it, isn't it the correct answer at the moment? I'm sorry if I make a mistake.
Hero shit! I didn't learn anything in chemistry class because I was too busy doodling on my note book cover "Punks Not Dead" or 3d anarchy signs but I am pretty sure all those big words you use are describing SPEED, hot, nasty fast SPEED. YEAH!
So excited to see you making progress on the engine and the channel, it's really amazing how quickly things change when it all starts coming together. Keep it up!!
I'm with you all the way on this, can't wait for the rip! Haven't figured out how you'll be swapping the inlets with the engine running, I'll just have to wait and see. Keep it up!!!
Cut some extra tapert fingers out reed material put two on top of each valve use screw holes to mount them they wil support the valves at high rpm this way they keep up better
Thank you very mch for the new video... i know stefan schwarz... met him last jear at a moped meetring and see his selfmade cnc cyl in action... lovley stuff for sure
The disc valve seal material in Suzuki GP100/125 (they share exactly the same crank, disc valve & gearbox) is made from neoprene. The previous 1960's designed model, the Suzuki A100, used a standard large neoprene O ring as a perimeter disc valve seal, which can wear and leak with age. This is why they changed to the seal design in the early 1970's for GT100, GP100, GP125, TS125 & TS185 disc valved engines. It's not cork as that material is destroyed extremely quickly by ethanol contaminated unleaded petrol. I've seen Suzuki GP100 & GP125 bikes running on E5 unleaded so if it was cork the disc valve seal would have failed within hours. I've worked on a couple of GP100's back in the late 1990's. One I had to take apart & fix the disc valve assembly. The other I was converting it, for a client, into GP125 by changing the cylinder, piston and replacing the carb main jet with a 122.5 size.
My boy stripped the coating right off his 2019 kx 100. But head didn't tighten the airfilter screw and raced a dust for 2hrs. I quit on him 3 times before it wouldn't restart.
You should consult the brilliant engineers at Zanoah in Japan . they make the smoothest long lasting trouble free 49cc class 2stroke I've seen . I have 2 bicycles w 2 stroke friction drive motor kits . 1 has Huasheng Kaisa 63cc and the other is Zanoah 42cc . the 63cc has great low end torque and seldom have to pedal up hill w a comfortable 19mph cruise . The Zanoah is like Cadilac in comparison . Super smooth running has 22mph comfort zone cruise over 2k miles starts 2nd pull every time zero problems and runs better than new , but I have to pedal on larger hills . the folks at Zanoah know how on 2cycle . thinking about their 63cc 2 stroke but hard to find . good luck w your project and hope it turns out something we can all enjoy . I love 2strokes and would have 2stroke motorcycles if we could get them I grew up on those and also enjoy using my 2stroke yard equipment . Best wishes for your project .
Wow its going really great for you! I got a video request. Im building a vintage tomos engine to get up some speed. im at 98kmh right now. Could you explain stuff like how much things like ignition timing, reed thickness, reed block size, high vs low compression head affects powerband. Also how to determine how big carb is needed at top rpm to acheve the power people are aiming for. Forums are all flooded with mixed answers.
Wondeful channel!! 👍👍👍Best comment: "I could clean up this place, but that's boring" 😂😂😂👍 That's me😅 I clean up a little, then find something interesting to work on, then clean up again. It is so easy to just drop everything, and so hard to clean it all up again. I just never seem able to keep my garage organized.
I think this is the best idea for higher power figures for larger capacity engines. I always thought a v 5 cylinder configuration would be good for a 250. With the smaller cylinders having a better surface to volume ratio allowing more STA that say a conventional twin a lot of power could be achieved (in theory).
I de-plate cylinders often, the best way to get it done is 55% nitric acid heated to 65 / 70 degrees celcius in a 18/8 stainless steel stock pot. Get the acid to temperature then place cylinder into acid and it will deplate in around 2 minutes and will not harm the aluminium at all. A WORD OF CAUTION, THE REACTION IS FAST AND LOOKS LIKE CHIPS IN A CHIP FRYER AND THE BROWN FUMES GIVEN OFF ARE DEADLY IF INHALED SO ONLY DO THIS OUTSIDE IN AN OPEN SPACE !! I have a short video of this process if you need clarification
Due to your vikings ancestry you will never give up are you. Just some points of attention to influence you positively yessss First - Consider your new mould to rotate along the cilinders centre line while pouring the new casting Second - Upgrade your design for a 3D printed “lost model” considering repositioning stud bolts and or angles of all canals learned up to now Third - Consider some intake charging system by supercharging preferably E-engine sytem assisted hence using return breaking energy ... for you to think of something clever with for instance pressure lubricated crankshaft needing less premix oil Fourth - Remember the technical difficulties involved with the once Bimota V-Due Fifth - Keep your throat properly lined with malts from Scotland stimulating our minds
Very thought provoking and inspiring to watch but I’m not sure full time doing technical stuff with this intensity is a good idea for your own wellbeing, especially if mainly by yourself? 😊
Ok. You got my sub. Very therapuetic content not so much that i need that or do i? Really impressed with the work here and i cant wait to see this thing complete
U need to get ur content out there on multiple platforms and people will find u. that will increase ur views. Would love to see u being able to do this full time.
Since you started talking about the idea of the injection system, I can’t wait to see how you are going to deal with the tricky transition period between carburettor and the injection system. You should run the carbi on methonal too because gasoline and methonal don’t mix too well and might make the transition even more difficult. Hey mate, I’m no chemist but Isn’t nitromethane (cH3NO2) just methonal (CH30H) mixed with nitroglycerin? Well That’s what my old man use to tell me to run the bike on. “Make sure you “pickle” the tank first like I showed you” he would say! And use 5 to 7.5% acetone for a faster burn and stop it detonating too much. Ahhh the smell of shell M in the morning. You are a braver man man than me to go down the plating road again! Good luck! Keep up the good great work👍👌✌️🤘
Seems like acetone should be stored in a metal container. Anytime I wipe it on plastic it smears it. Just something to check so your bucket doesn’t fail
Like alot have said , Yes another video 2stroke stuffing is on again, also with Mark A channel. Great work love it when you say i have a plan . Honestly a cylinder sleeve is the go for speed bike , not like your in a half hour road race. What's the reed material ? Cheers keep it up I'll support you on patreon in few months once i sort few things out.
Ammonium bicarbonate, may cause a little discoloration to the aluminum but it should only be minimal if it doesn't set on the aluminum too much. It's an ingredient in a bicarbonate fire extinguishers. And it will burn if it gets in any cuts, so wear gloves! I'm certain you already know that LoL.
If the bottim seat is demaged or not wel casted you can fill it up wit epoxyjust like you bodyfiller. Only place where epoxy doeant hold is tge ex port ande top of the cyl. Those places reach the highest temp
Heating the cylinder to (at least) 150C for 30 minutes should turn the plaster back to a solvable form (if it works similar to plaster of paris at least).
@@2STROKESTUFFING Forgot about that, that's probably already turned it back into plaster, so it's gonna be down to a low reaction area due to solid plaster (exacerbated by the sand). In theory it's only a function of time for it to re-hydrate and dissolve, an ultrasonic bath would probably do the trick to get it done fast though (that's what jewelers do).
Why not make an aluminium sleeve, and have it plated? That way you solve the porosity problem and still have the benefits of nicasil, albeit at a cost of a little thermal conductivity lost.
I've just subscribed on Patreon dude, I can't give much but I appreciate your work. Have you thought about jazzing up your Patreon a bit though? Maybe some perks for higher levels, or 2 stroke related names for levels, maybe a monthly Discord chat above a certain level? I've no idea if it'll really help get more support but it's the sort of thing I see a lot of channels doing. Either way keep up your awesome work, can't wait to see you get out on the salt again.
That gray milky stuff is definitely aluminum brother I don't know why but that's the only metal that does that all other metals would just be little flakes and chunks if something went wrong
I wonder, if having the exhaust port moved 90degrees or rotating the head 90 degrees would help with the piston interfering with the exhaust port? I know you chamfered the exhaust port and solved it but could this help it even more? That way the piston wont pivot towards the large exhaust port. Is this a good idea, or is there a reason the piston pivots towards the port? You don't really have this option with inline pistons but with a single piston you might be able to take advantage of it. I know pistons go straight up and down but they can rattle, and it might rattle less towards the port this way?
What an exciting project, congratulations to you, it's really well thought and well done, i just don't understand why a so big volume in the cases... but i'll sure understand later. Let's go bro, you are really on a very good way to make two stroke better than ever 💪💪💪👌👌👌
I have a degreasing formula I would be happy to PM to you. I also have a way to remove the nasty stuff from rinse water too from one of those eureka moments I so looked forward to.
I have been watching for a couple years now but i can't seem to remember if you tried a ultrasonic cleaner with some kind of plaster and stone remover like they use in dental work to clean out your cylinder castings.
When i was tuning 2t i would try to get the compression ratio has high has i could without the piston smashing into the head, apart from a little porting i could get most mopeds above 50mph, why the low ratio. methanol loves high compression.
Thanks for all the nice comments! And yes I changed the thumb, trying to use something nice you know, please the people!
The people are pleased 😁
One of those few channels where I click on new vids as fast as possible!
Really enjoy the process.
I really hope you can do this full time! Its amazing to see what you can get done with limited time! I cant even imagine the things you could get going if you had more time. Keep up this amazing work
Thanks!
A year later and look at him go.
Brilliant ...just imagine all the things we can do and learn if you are full-time😏😏
You mean when he’s full time right this dude is amazing
Next up: I brew pure methanol in my living room
haha that would be awsome
@Eddie Hitler okey dokey skip, 64 degrees methinks. I've made is and it burns a clear flame. What's the more difficulty with fruit?
I can assure you, he would definitely not be brewing methanol.
This Guy is unbelievable. Everytime I think "Man,it's time to call a professional" he pulls out some kind of Caveman Tool outa somewhere and in the next moment, he makes it work. Absolutely brilliant! Autodidakt. Best regards from Germany
I got so exited when I got that notification!
so much you forgot your c
au lol your right! I didn’t even notice
Being so open about your process and this new upload schedule you have, i see no reason why your channel wont be sustainable.
Love how he says:
-nitric-ac....
-No, definetly not nitric acid😂😂
Your perseverance must be applauded! Too deep to stop now, and a world record would not only showcase your work, but could prove to be lucrative down the road.
"I have a plan" I love it!
A note about that particular unamed oxidising acid, eventually it will make the container brittle and the contents end up on the floor, personal experience. telltales are the inside of a red or blue cap becomes white. It does not attack most aluminium, I use it to remove broken bolts from aluminium.
👍Should get a suitable glass container then.
@@2STROKESTUFFING Yes, the black plastic containers that it is usually supplied in last 2 - 5 years, the 2.25 l glass bottles last forever
i seriously hope you get to do this stuff fulltime! I have only been watching for a few weeks now since i wanted to know more about two-stroke engines. But i already know i wil definitly be watching your channel for a while! 100K subs is a huge milestone and it only gets better from this point on! Hope you do well.
This video definitely has a Breaking Bad vibe to it.
Amazing to see this has come on from just a drawing. It’s taken it’s time but boy it’s all worth it. Glad it’s all finally coming together for you
Ive been watching for about a year now I guess, I will say that your in a difficult spot for your TH-cam channel, you need 5 days a week 8hrs a day to make the content that is needed to attract people to the channel to support itself. You also need the viewers and patrion support large enough to support yourself so you can go that route... the only thing I can recommend is possibly finding some other smaller 2 stroke projects or motorized projects you can work on while waiting on parts to trickle in. I personally would like to see some crazy multi cylinder 2 stroke pocket rocket bikes ect just for fun. I am rooting for you and I would really like to see what would come of the channels growth and your creative independence, I just hope you don't burn out in the process of getting it there
X2 on that comment 👍
I'm pretty sure burnout is not a concern; this dude has a passion for two strokes I've not seen elsewhere.
You deserve to work on stuff you like full time, your videos are really entertaining and I personally find it great education since im not that used in 2 stroke engines such as 4 stroke thank you for uploading such great content! Hope you can achieve your goals good luck :)
Love it when you say"I have a plan".
Remember nitro likes a lot of ignition timing. More than most people believe.
One thing about casting, take a large propane or natural gas torch with a ~3 inch head on it and preheat your molds before you cast the part. When you cast into a cold mold it doesn't pour well as it want's to instantly harden when it hits the mold. It also can lead to vapor bubbles on the surface of your part. A preheated mold will come out with a much nicer part. Another VERY common throttle plate material (it's used in all Holley carbs) is brass. When acids stop working warm them up, just don't heat nitric too hot or it'll start turning into dinitrogen which is that lovely red cloud that is extremely toxic and extremely corrosive.
👍 Mold at 400C when pouring, straight out of the oven! I'm pretty paranoid about that red cloud, rather go slow.
You are a smart dedicated man, I respect that.
Good progress, positive attitude.
You say you are not working a lot on the project... and uploading every two days, that's pretty impressive on its own :)
Bro so happy to hear your close to doing your passion full time.
Well you pleased this people.. I am completely hooked on this project.. It would be nice if you could work on it full time.. nice for you, nice for us.. I want to see you break some records!!! I never really messed with 2 strokes much.. being a child of the 50's, 60's and 70's I was into v-8 4 stroke hot rods.. Oh I played with a few dirt bikes for fun.. But my passion was cars.. I am learning now about what I missed out on now.. so thanks for teaching this old dog some new tricks.. Carry on.. be very safe.. and we will see you on the next video..
What i like with you, it is a mix of Burt Monroe, and back to the future.
I want to say that I thoroughly love watching your videos. The way you take complicated things and do them in such a simple way it shows others that it can
be done with what we have right in our own shops. I am really hoping you can do this full time because I'm building some of my own equipment based off of many of your ideas / designs. I can't wait to see all the new projects you have planned in the years to come. With all the great comments I really cannot
overlook something that to me is not mentioned nearly enough and that is personal safety and well being. After following your video's from the beginning
believe me I know what you can do so please understand what I write next is ONLY because I truly care about a fellow enthusiast so here it goes...
I'm an old school automotive machinist by trade so I have similar equipment, machines and tools like you have. Something you will need to write on your wall
next is PPE SAVES LIVES. If you are going to do this full time, 5 days a week, 8 hours a day ( and you lock the shop on weekends no matter what ) then this will be how you will make your living. If you will be the sole owner / operator of your shop YOU will be responsible for YOUR own safety and personal well being. Safety is more of an immediate thing like it happens in the moment where if we do this without doing that first then something generally bad will
happen immediately afterwards resulting in the wife taking us to the hospital ( on numerous occasions ). Our well being is more like a long term event that happens to our general health and personal well being over time. Something like the long term affects chemical exposure to the skin or lungs. Right now there may just be a little coughing and hacking up black crap or having a little skin irritation that goes away in a few days. Fast forward 10 years from now when it's not a rash anymore but nerve damage ( Varsol parts cleaner etc... ) and then your manhood falls off... Good safe habits need to start now if you want to be in this game for the long haul my friend. You cannot be putting your hands into various chemicals ( acetone etc.. ) like you are doing because you are starting to get comfortable with some VERY VERY toxic things in your shop. Not only are these chemicals toxic to you but they are also toxic to whoever they come into contact with like maybe your family. I saw you are rinsing chemicals off on the floor, they can build up over time and if you step on the residue it could possibly be tracked to other areas of your shop or maybe into your home, washing machine etc. Cross contamination is super serious with what you have in your shop so understand your MSDS ( SDS ) sheets and live by them or you could easily die by them. Some chemicals are not only toxic but interactive with other chemicals in your shop like "definitely not nitric acid" and such.
Getting busy cannot be a reason to be careless in the shop with use, storage or disposal and your definitely going to be busy if you do this full time.. Your
excitement is already showing :) Remember this your skin is like a sponge, whatever you get on it or get your hands into is absorbed through your skin and
into your blood stream sorta like Ben Gay, Icy Hot and any other topical solution. Also protect your skin and keep it covered while welding. The HIGH
intensity radiation coming off the arc will cause a sunburn affect and over time can cause skin cancer. MOST OF ALL protect your eyes at all costs doing
anything that can take them out because you can't ride if you can't see. One of those rubber lab aprons would really be a good idea around the nasty stuff
and ALWAYS wear an eye covering that would protect your eyes if the liquid was forcefully thrown into your face. A face shield over the goggles and
respirator is best, overkill is never a bad thing. This leads to another very important thing which is your lungs. If you were to get a good breath of
something that maybe shouldn't be there for safety reasons and there were to be an incident you could be rendered unconscious, fall hit your head then
everyone involved will be lets just say... involved. This leads to the next thing if something were to happen do you have a way to let someone know to come
help you because it seems you are the only one in your shop most of the time. Ventilation should be a priority for you especially in the colder months with
your propane heater and the types of fuels that you are going to be experimenting with. The fuel itself is toxic but when burned and inhaled or mixed through
combustion with other things it could be very instantly deadly. I also saw that you are using a propane heated in your closed shop, they burn up the oxygen and you can start getting severe headaches and black out. You are only out in your shop for 2 hours a night a few nights a week now but if your out the 5 days a week for 8 hours ( year right ) a day it could start to become a concern with low oxygen levels. COVID is bad enough with the masks we don't want to make it worse.
I guess my whole point is this, you are heading in a direction that only spells bigger, better, faster, more ( 4 non blonds?? ) so you need to put safety
first because what you are doing in your home shop is the type of thing that is mostly done in very controlled environments or done in an actual lab
environment with proper safety precautions, proper storage procedures and proper damage control if things go sideways because that IS NOT the time to
realize your not prepared. I have an eye for things and when I see too many stack up other things will inevitably start to happen like sparks from welding / grinding fly into a bucket / container of chemical and the chain reaction starts. IF ANYTHING happens in your home shop you absolutely need to be prepared because it could shut your whole operation down maybe permanently if you have a fire. Years ago in my own shop I lit off a full trash can of titanium shavings / strings because in a hurry the lid was not put back on properly. I was using a side grinder to cut off a piece of metal in the vise and NEVER realized where the sparks were going. The trash can of titanium scrap was on the other side of the shop no where near where I was grinding so I never even thought to look. There are special fire extinguishers for different things including flammable metals which I did not have. The can, titanium scrap and my underwear were toast but I managed to save the shop. I just remember when I turned around I never saw a flame that bright in my life, it was almost to the ceiling and the can was cherry red... It was a damn near religious experience. It happened one other time at a place I was working, someone grabbed a shop vac and started sucking up the titanium shavings around their chip hopper. I guess the fine fine shavings ignited inside the shop vac and with the forced airflow it didn't end well... You would never think it could happen I'll tell you but just go talk to the guy with the shop vac, imagine when he turned around it was like a flame thrower.
So anyway, last last I'm not sure what the laws and regulations are in Norway but you are dealing with people worldwide so just be mindful of everything that comes into your shop and the potential risks and hazards accompanied with them.
Please be safe and keep making these great innovative videos. Your thoughts and ideas are definitely stirring up thoughts and ideas of my own :)
Take care and God Bless from USA
I so look forward to each and every video in this series. Thanks 😊 for the content
Acid fumes is not only bad to breath it can also attack and rust anything that's iron in that room so that's also a reason to be careful with it inside a workshop.
Yep.
"could clean up tjhe place but thats boring" YES! a messy place shows intelligence
a cluttered space clutters the mind
It also shows laziness
Cleaning up the space is a good time investment as you'll win some on every action you make
@@Thomas-yv5yw cleaning never ends it's a lifetime battle.
I like the place as it is, sort of Breaking bad does two strokes!
@@TotoGuy-Original No. If you put everything back right after you used it, you'll never have to deal with it again.
@@simont3686 I have a big problem with that it would mean I have to get things out again to use them again which takes even more time leave it out until you are definitely not going to need it for a while that's my logic 😁
Here in the US you can buy nitro in different percentages for rc cars and plane engines. I used to but it by the quart. Just an idea. Keep up the good work.
Same here but only 10% oil.
try the 1.75mm casting wax filament u can use wax to fix anything and add sprus
Please no it would not be boring to see a timelaps of you cleaning up the place! Cleaner envierment better and faster productuion one day when you are full time and this engine is no longer a prototype id like to buy one if you ever decide to mass produce them all that research and work is worth a lot would love to see that on one on my builds
You have been really consistent lately and I am really loving it! Having been a part of this journey for more than 3 years I am really happy about your recent successes and I hope you archieve your dream of getting that engine to work and of doing this full time! Proud of you dude!
I really glad to see you having fun, thanks
I wish youtube goes great for you and he start daily uploading, cause theese videos haave been very interesting snd informative and I've learnt alot. Thank you!
It's a translation, so I don't know if it will be transmitted correctly.
It seems that you think that the compression pressure is low, but at present it is a good pressure. Since the height of the exhaust port is high, I think that the upper limit is 4Kgf / cm2 to 5Kgf / cm2 considering the combustion chamber and cylinder compression volume. I think that the compression pressure cannot be known unless there is exhaust pressure when the engine is actually operating. What is the distance from the top of the exhaust port to the top of the cylinder? It looks like 12-13mm from the screen of the PC. When I calculate it, isn't it the correct answer at the moment? I'm sorry if I make a mistake.
Hero shit! I didn't learn anything in chemistry class because I was too busy doodling on my note book cover "Punks Not Dead" or 3d anarchy signs but I am pretty sure all those big words you use are describing SPEED, hot, nasty fast SPEED. YEAH!
This is my favourite channel by a country mile! I'm always looking forward to a new video, keep it up man!
I make seals and gaskets at work. We use Cnc lathes and Cnc gasket cutters. If I can help you with some custom seals let me know.
Awesome, thanks! Mail me on 2strokestuffing@gmail.com
So excited to see you making progress on the engine and the channel, it's really amazing how quickly things change when it all starts coming together. Keep it up!!
Love yer channel/content, never boring, perfect "watch while you have a meal" kind of content
Thanks!
If you can heat the not nitric acid it might work a bit quicker or use the same method you used for plating but reverse the polarity of the wires.
The algorithm has been kind on you
But seriously I've recently started watching and its great
You rule ! Good luck , started to watch 6-7 videos ago I'm liking.
I'm with you all the way on this, can't wait for the rip! Haven't figured out how you'll be swapping the inlets with the engine running, I'll just have to wait and see. Keep it up!!!
Cut some extra tapert fingers out reed material put two on top of each valve use screw holes to mount them they wil support the valves at high rpm this way they keep up better
Thank you very mch for the new video... i know stefan schwarz... met him last jear at a moped meetring and see his selfmade cnc cyl in action... lovley stuff for sure
The disc valve seal material in Suzuki GP100/125 (they share exactly the same crank, disc valve & gearbox) is made from neoprene. The previous 1960's designed model, the Suzuki A100, used a standard large neoprene O ring as a perimeter disc valve seal, which can wear and leak with age. This is why they changed to the seal design in the early 1970's for GT100, GP100, GP125, TS125 & TS185 disc valved engines.
It's not cork as that material is destroyed extremely quickly by ethanol contaminated unleaded petrol. I've seen Suzuki GP100 & GP125 bikes running on E5 unleaded so if it was cork the disc valve seal would have failed within hours.
I've worked on a couple of GP100's back in the late 1990's. One I had to take apart & fix the disc valve assembly. The other I was converting it, for a client, into GP125 by changing the cylinder, piston and replacing the carb main jet with a 122.5 size.
I'm so happy for you mate, well done on all the time and effort to put out quality vids...
I love seeing progress! Hopefully the replating goes well.
My boy stripped the coating right off his 2019 kx 100. But head didn't tighten the airfilter screw and raced a dust for 2hrs. I quit on him 3 times before it wouldn't restart.
Keep up the good work - can't wait to see the progress!
You should consult the brilliant engineers at Zanoah in Japan . they make the smoothest long lasting trouble free 49cc class 2stroke I've seen .
I have 2 bicycles w 2 stroke friction drive motor kits . 1 has Huasheng Kaisa 63cc and the other is Zanoah 42cc . the 63cc has great low end torque and seldom have to pedal up hill w a comfortable 19mph cruise .
The Zanoah is like Cadilac in comparison . Super smooth running has 22mph comfort zone cruise over 2k miles starts 2nd pull every time zero problems and runs better than new , but I have to pedal on larger hills . the folks at Zanoah know how on 2cycle . thinking about their 63cc 2 stroke but hard to find . good luck w your project and hope it turns out something we can all enjoy . I love 2strokes and would have 2stroke motorcycles if we could get them I grew up on those and also enjoy using my 2stroke yard equipment . Best wishes for your project .
2.8k loves and 16 hates, those 16 people must really envy your ability. Thanks for learning English btw
Tinking in your shop would be fun as hell. I need to step my game up
Wow its going really great for you! I got a video request. Im building a vintage tomos engine to get up some speed. im at 98kmh right now. Could you explain stuff like how much things like ignition timing, reed thickness, reed block size, high vs low compression head affects powerband. Also how to determine how big carb is needed at top rpm to acheve the power people are aiming for. Forums are all flooded with mixed answers.
Love your videos. I can't do much to help, but I did buy myself one of your T-shirts.
Thanks man!
Reodor felgen hadde vært stolt nå!! Keep it up
I really like watching this guy!
Wondeful channel!! 👍👍👍Best comment:
"I could clean up this place, but that's boring" 😂😂😂👍 That's me😅 I clean up a little, then find something interesting to work on, then clean up again. It is so easy to just drop everything, and so hard to clean it all up again. I just never seem able to keep my garage organized.
Have you ever thought of building a small cc inline 4 two stroke? Like four 50cc 2 stroke engines on a single crank think it would be pretty cool
I think this is the best idea for higher power figures for larger capacity engines. I always thought a v 5 cylinder configuration would be good for a 250. With the smaller cylinders having a better surface to volume ratio allowing more STA that say a conventional twin a lot of power could be achieved (in theory).
@Eddie Hitler yes he has. I love his Channel! Imagine 5 of Alex's cylinders as a v5 with 30hp per cylinder... Potential for 150hp!
Awesome man, good progress, looking good
I de-plate cylinders often, the best way to get it done is 55% nitric acid heated to 65 / 70 degrees celcius in a 18/8 stainless steel stock pot. Get the acid to temperature then place cylinder into acid and it will deplate in around 2 minutes and will not harm the aluminium at all. A WORD OF CAUTION, THE REACTION IS FAST AND LOOKS LIKE CHIPS IN A CHIP FRYER AND THE BROWN FUMES GIVEN OFF ARE DEADLY IF INHALED SO ONLY DO THIS OUTSIDE IN AN OPEN SPACE !!
I have a short video of this process if you need clarification
Thanks! I'm trying to go the more slow but not so potentially lethal route. Nitric fumes are pretty unpleasant...
I love the videos i have a little bit of catching up on previous videos to do.. before i make ignorant comments..... Your doing great keep it up
Kjempeinteressant video! Tusen takk!
Don’t go with higher voltage
It will burn and plate unevenly
👍 Yeah, better add more time.
@@2STROKESTUFFING 3V
Due to your vikings ancestry you will never give up are you.
Just some points of attention to influence you positively yessss
First - Consider your new mould to rotate along the cilinders centre line while pouring the new casting
Second - Upgrade your design for a 3D printed “lost model” considering repositioning stud bolts and or angles of all canals learned up to now
Third - Consider some intake charging system by supercharging preferably E-engine sytem assisted hence using return breaking energy ... for you to think of something clever with for instance pressure lubricated crankshaft needing less premix oil
Fourth - Remember the technical difficulties involved with the once Bimota V-Due
Fifth - Keep your throat properly lined with malts from Scotland stimulating our minds
Very thought provoking and inspiring to watch but I’m not sure full time doing technical stuff with this intensity is a good idea for your own wellbeing, especially if mainly by yourself? 😊
This is like a master class, I hope you can make a daily video
Ok. You got my sub. Very therapuetic content not so much that i need that or do i? Really impressed with the work here and i cant wait to see this thing complete
U need to get ur content out there on multiple platforms and people will find u. that will increase ur views. Would love to see u being able to do this full time.
Since you started talking about the idea of the injection system, I can’t wait to see how you are going to deal with the tricky transition period between carburettor and the injection system.
You should run the carbi on methonal too because gasoline and methonal don’t mix too well and might make the transition even more difficult.
Hey mate, I’m no chemist but Isn’t nitromethane (cH3NO2) just methonal (CH30H) mixed with nitroglycerin?
Well That’s what my old man use to tell me to run the bike on. “Make sure you “pickle” the tank first like I showed you” he would say! And use 5 to 7.5% acetone for a faster burn and stop it detonating too much.
Ahhh the smell of shell M in the morning.
You are a braver man man than me to go down the plating road again! Good luck!
Keep up the good great work👍👌✌️🤘
Always wish your video doesn't end ;)
Some of my best ideas have been made not far from a relative of your intake valve.... and my fly rod.
Great job as always. Might be worth trying an ultrasonic cleaner for the plaster and general cleaning of parts
Thanks, good tip!
You're gonna be big. In maybe a year you'll be looking down to when you "only" had 100k subs.
Seems like acetone should be stored in a metal container. Anytime I wipe it on plastic it smears it. Just something to check so your bucket doesn’t fail
Polypropylene/polyethylene is fine👍
Like alot have said ,
Yes another video 2stroke stuffing is on again, also with Mark A channel.
Great work love it when you say i have a plan .
Honestly a cylinder sleeve is the go for speed bike , not like your in a half hour road race.
What's the reed material ?
Cheers keep it up I'll support you on patreon in few months once i sort few things out.
Ammonium bicarbonate, may cause a little discoloration to the aluminum but it should only be minimal if it doesn't set on the aluminum too much. It's an ingredient in a bicarbonate fire extinguishers. And it will burn if it gets in any cuts, so wear gloves! I'm certain you already know that LoL.
If the bottim seat is demaged or not wel casted you can fill it up wit epoxyjust like you bodyfiller. Only place where epoxy doeant hold is tge ex port ande top of the cyl. Those places reach the highest temp
I really hope you can do a full-time.... that would be awesome... we would get to live vicariously through you.
That's awsome. Great move
I've learned so much from you thank you
it's becoming real!
easy is not worth ANYTHING! Keep up the hussle my dude!
Восхищаюсь твоему энтузиазму мужик! Ты реально крутой!
thanks for the show and tell. very interesting! thanks.
Heating the cylinder to (at least) 150C for 30 minutes should turn the plaster back to a solvable form (if it works similar to plaster of paris at least).
Sure? This plaster(plaster of paris +sand) has been cooked for 24h at 400c.
@@2STROKESTUFFING Forgot about that, that's probably already turned it back into plaster, so it's gonna be down to a low reaction area due to solid plaster (exacerbated by the sand).
In theory it's only a function of time for it to re-hydrate and dissolve, an ultrasonic bath would probably do the trick to get it done fast though (that's what jewelers do).
Love your determination!
This is so awesome
Why not make an aluminium sleeve, and have it plated? That way you solve the porosity problem and still have the benefits of nicasil, albeit at a cost of a little thermal conductivity lost.
Might do that later👍
Remember always talk to your 2 stroke.
Finally getting some breaking bad stuff again!
I've just subscribed on Patreon dude, I can't give much but I appreciate your work. Have you thought about jazzing up your Patreon a bit though? Maybe some perks for higher levels, or 2 stroke related names for levels, maybe a monthly Discord chat above a certain level? I've no idea if it'll really help get more support but it's the sort of thing I see a lot of channels doing. Either way keep up your awesome work, can't wait to see you get out on the salt again.
Thanks, and thanks for the suggestions! I really should do more over there!
That gray milky stuff is definitely aluminum brother I don't know why but that's the only metal that does that all other metals would just be little flakes and chunks if something went wrong
I wonder, if having the exhaust port moved 90degrees or rotating the head 90 degrees would help with the piston interfering with the exhaust port? I know you chamfered the exhaust port and solved it but could this help it even more?
That way the piston wont pivot towards the large exhaust port. Is this a good idea, or is there a reason the piston pivots towards the port?
You don't really have this option with inline pistons but with a single piston you might be able to take advantage of it.
I know pistons go straight up and down but they can rattle, and it might rattle less towards the port this way?
Absolutely! Actually brought this up way back just before the retained ring/100% port idea.
What an exciting project, congratulations to you, it's really well thought and well done, i just don't understand why a so big volume in the cases... but i'll sure understand later. Let's go bro, you are really on a very good way to make two stroke better than ever 💪💪💪👌👌👌
I have a degreasing formula I would be happy to PM to you. I also have a way to remove the nasty stuff from rinse water too from one of those eureka moments I so looked forward to.
I have been watching for a couple years now but i can't seem to remember if you tried a ultrasonic cleaner with some kind of plaster and stone remover like they use in dental work to clean out your cylinder castings.
Great work great vids keep up the good work 👍👍👍
Thanks!
When i was tuning 2t i would try to get the compression ratio has high has i could without the piston smashing into the head, apart from a little porting i could get most mopeds above 50mph,
why the low ratio. methanol loves high compression.