Awesome explanation . After 30 years in automotive field , simple audio/visual explanation of what an expansion valve does in a way I will never forget . Thanks & keep up to good work
I usually explain it to the customer this way: When the pressurized refrigerant is pushed through the small orfice, the heat is left behind on the pressurized side. It is then dissipated by blowing cooler air through it. Basically you are removing heat from inside the car and leaving it outside, the a/c is a heat exchanger. Good video.
thank you for all the video's i go to school for 7 hours a day and sometimes just cant understand the 360 loop around things hop on your channel very well explained thanks for your time!
Well I'd be honored to be your friend. I just turned 51 and I can tell you in all my years I've met very few guys of your character and skill. Working on cars has only been a hobby for me so when I see your work I'm in awe. Learning how to repair cars involves a lot of trial and error and since I've rarely done the same repair on the same car twice it's been a whole lot of error. I did put seven axles in my 70 datsun roadster because the first 6 from scrap yards were bent so I got good at that.
Excellent job!! I am not a tech but learned over the years that cleaning the condenser is 90% of an AC maintenance job. Also maintaining a quality belt on the engine permits the accessories to function properly--which of course includes the AC compressor. My current problem is trying to figure out a way to clean the condenser on my sister in laws 1997 Taurus. Ford has made access to the condenser and radiator (either side) on this car practically impossible.
It may be worth a try. I generally don't use the treatments. I'd try synthetic on the next oil change like a 0W30. My philosophy is to fix the problem. If an engine is dirty- clean it. If it's worn out- rebuild or replace it.
You explain it in such an intelligent way making it easy to understand something so complicated. I'm prepping for the HVAC ASE test and that test to me, is high level diagnosing, I failed it once so back to learning. Thank You
Thanks for all the info. Explained it very well. A friend told me I needed to replace th expansion valve in my 2004 galant but when I go to look for one online and in the store they look similar to but not exactly the same as my friend pulled out. I figure I just need to go to the dealer and get the part there. I know they said it's about 80 bucks there. We evacuated the system and charged with some refrigerant using a machine he has. Works fine for about a day then goes hot again.
He checked for leaks in he lines and didn't see any but he mentioned maybe I needed to replace the nozzles or whatever u call them. I don't know. Just hope to fix it before summer.
Thank you very much! Having an issue with low side low and barely cool air. When I'm idling the low side pressure remains, but when I start driving it eventually becomes warm and low side pressure becomes very low. Low side lines are condensation and tons of water dripping from the evap drain tube. Definitely freezing going on. I'm trying to figure out whether it's a stuck expansion valve or if there's moisture within the system. Low side was within range, but on the low end when idling before taking a drive. It was definitely opened before and I have all the reasons to believe it was neglected so they may not have vacuumed the system of moisture. Will rent gauges and vacuum pump and report back to get a real idea. Might just evacuate, vacuum, and recharge and see if I can get away with that since I'm not savvy enough to differentiate between the possible issues. Thanks again! Your video was very helpful.
You explain it in such an intelligent way making it easy to understand something so complicated. I'm prepping for the HVAC ASE test and that test is high level diagnosing Thank You
Refrigerant can carry or suspend only so much oil. The manufacturer will specify the amount of oil, but it's roughly a given percentage of the refrigerant by weight. Most systems that are 1kg charge with have 6-7 oz of oil. A big system like on a van or Suburban with have close to 12 oz of oil and a 2kg charge.
It depends on the car and LARGELY on what type of ignition system it has. Generally you don't want water sprayed at pressure into a spark plug boot well. Nor do you want to spray a distributor cap. Also the insulation under the hood should be left dry too. If it gets heavy it will sag and tear. MOST everything else can be pressure washed. The engine compartment is made to take a splash.
It's tough to pull moisture out of a dryer because of those saddle bag silica gel things. The silica gel really holds onto the moisture and therefore loses capacity to hold more water. Though it's not ideal. They can be re used with success.
That was funny when explaining pressure drop and you said something but it wasnt making textbook sense, and then you say Thats just the way it is, lol classic thanks man love your videos
excellent explanation of the a/c system Brian! i swear you should have your own t.v. show. Always impressed by your knowledge. cool Waterton Lakes shirt.
Excellent explanation. My 2015 Mustang is having A/C cooling problems and my dealer is replacing the expansion valve today. A new compressor and collector did not solve the issue. Hope this does the trick.
here's one for you. Nice video btw. I just replaced condenser, receiver drier, and expansion valve. pulled a vacuum for an hour and a half and charged it. It got nice and cold, worked great till I turned it of and the compressor started to cycle on and off at idle. cools down while I run it on the freeway or a long stretch of street. But on stop and go traffic, it gets hot. I replaced the condenser because it was in bad shape and was painted from overspray and the reason that started this whole a/c problem. went on and changed the expansion valve. Still have the same problem. Maybe you can shed some light. 2000 camry v6.
It's also known as a Isochoric Process. Basically - you vary the pressure while keeping the volume constant. Thus the closed system and the all-metal AC lines. It works the same as a can of compressed air. You send a volume of air from high-pressure to low-pressure. The restriction keeps the gas from expanding in the low-pressure environment, so the temperature drops. The expansion valve basically keeps the pressure low in the evaporator by restricting the flow of refrigerant.
If the level of charge is off it will build too much pressure too quick on the high side and cut off or it will run out of pressure on the low side from being too low and cut off to preserve the compressor from not getting lube (suspended in the refrigerant charge).
Nice video and explanation,. So when you restrict turning screw clockwise on the expansion valve in cabin blows more cold? Because I opened unclockwise, let the heat in faster to cool down the a/c pump fasters but now doesn't come out cold cold in cabin.
Looks like an accumulator I see there if I'm not mistaken. If that is the case, then this system doesn't have an expansion valve, but rather has an orifice tube instead. Just an observation.
thanks for this information brian. very informative. as a tech i am always looking for relative information and personal perspective on subject matter. being that i live in texas i know a thing or two about a/c systems. as / chrysler diag.... if you have low pressure on the high side and high pressure on the low side, before changing the compressor it is wise to dump a cold bottle of water on the expansion valve, ice cold. this got me thinkin... in the colder months, why don't i put my system under a vacuum? this make keep any moisture away from vital components on my old ragged vehicle which i know could use a new compressor? i guess that time is coming but i would like to put it off... sorry for the mental adventure... best of luck my friend and good job again!
youve got a way with words,when i done my a/c course the bloke dident want to explain anything,i swear he wanted me to fail the exam:/Anyway on vauxhall ,opels suffer with condensers that fall appart!personally i would try and stay away from bodyshop repairs as ive had them put new condensers on with no seals!cheers man
I don't use a water hose under the hood for any reason other then what Brian did in this video. if you feel the need to clean under the hood use a rag and spray the cleaner on the rag. This way you wont have any problems getting anything to wet.
There's actually a really cool formula for latent heat PV=nRT where P is pressure V is volume n is for moles/ grams R is .0821 and T is temperature. By manipulating the other variables you can control another variable. This is a good formula to understand HVAC stuff.
It's latent heat because temperature remains unchanged as the heat is added. It takes a certain amount of heat before the phase change can be completed.
Kudos for the excellent explanation, Brian. I think EricTheCarGuy turned me on to your channel, and you seem to have the right stuff as far as cars goes. Keep it up!
im not sure how much this will help, but like brian said. be carefull around the ignition. and radiator, be careful you dont bend the fins. and be sure to wash out all soaps and detergents if you use any. most importantly just start your car run it to opperateing temp for a few minutes after you wash it, it will get the water out of the places it shouldnt be in before it will do damage.
Latent heat is the consistent temp as the process of turning liquid to vapor the temp remains the same then once vaporized it becomes sensible temp and begins changing. The temps are crucial to know the state of the refrigerant. Hot and cold tels us nothing. Vacuum into microns and turn off the pump and watch the microns to make sure the stay under 500
I think the thing that really made me step back and go, NO CHIT!!! About any HVAC system is the fact that your not making the air cooler, instead you are remove heat from the air. By remove heat from the air inturn the air gets cooler. And also that there is no way to measure coldness but inturn we measure level of or lack of heat.
ive got a 95 chevy tahoe that the a/c system was open for at least 4 months before i closed the system and a month ago me and my friend whos a mechanic took a can of freon and threw it in the tahoe and it took. he said it had a air pocket in the system but somehow it moved so now the a/c works in it and that was the first time hes seen a a/c system do that
I have a 2002 silverado, It cools very good when your driving on shorter trips, but if you drive for an hour or so straight the air begins to drop off until its barely moving any air. If you keep the fan on high it seems to last longer but if you turn the fan speed down it stops sooner. I did change the fan relay. Do you have any suggestions?
I bet you the cabin expender is getting ICED UP by faulty TXV... perhaps it is simply not sensing correctly OR cabin air filter is partially plugged up
Awesome video as usual Brian. I love A/C in all forms so any video about air conditioning is great! Also, I'm curious, do you have an air conditioner for the shop?
That's alot for my brain to absorb but I got the Basics People need to wash the crud out ofthe radiator also at least once a year in the spring so the air can flow through
On my RV, I replaced the expansion valve and drier. Ran a 3 CFM vacuum for 2 hrs. Charged the system with refrigerant and my expansion valve looks like a block of ice. My AC line does get cool but I get negative low pressure on the low side gauge. I’m in a vacuum with the engine running and AC on max. I don’t know what else to do?
If you have to keep filling it, there's a leak. If you don't see a leak in the engine bay, it could be the evaporator, which requires pulling the instrument panel to replace. You should not have to keep filling the A/C system. It is not considered a regularly refilled system.
If I thought that there was that much moisture in the a/c system I would have replaced the receiver/drier. Most of the heat in the high side of the system is induced by the compression of the refrigerant, not the small amount of heat picked up in the evaporator. Maybe a script would help you when trying to explain the more technical aspects of automotive repair.
My 2003 Maxima AC both high and low sides have the same pressure around 90psi even though the compressor is engaged and running. Could be it be the compressor is dead or the TXV is stuck wide open?
Hey Brian how would you know or there is a way to tell if there is moisture in the AC system? I just bought a use car and the ac coming from the vent is at 60 it will not get colder then that unless I get on the highway and it will go down to 57. Thanks!!
Great video! So, anyone by chance know if low refrigerant could cause heavy/thick frost to form on both AC lines straight out of the compressor or is thick frost buildup on both AC lines something else(?) I’m experiencing this issue on my 03 5.9 Ram. The AC actually blows slightly cool (45ish) when the ac’s 1st turned on but then loses most of its coolness the longer the ac runs(?) I’m beginning to wonder if the issue could be caused from having a broken blend door inside the blower motor compartment letting in too much hot air(?) If anyone has any thoughts re what’s causing the excessive frost buildup + the diminishing cool air output in the cabin… I’d sure appreciate some suggestions re what to check 1st - Thanks!
@@forrestphotography8767 - Actually, I found out my trucks AC was low on refrigerant. Problem went away after topping off the refrigerant. Also, for what it’s worth, I had read some where that a bad fan clutch could cause some AC issues as well.
They now makes a r134 extreme cold . I have a 91 camery with r12 and it was 38 degrees with r12 and now converted with r134 extreme cold it runs 41 when its 98 outside . I am unsure whats in that stuff but it works great. I also hav a 2003 with r134 and it does not get as cold as the camery . If you have to recharge r134a I would try the extreme version.I got mine at NAPA 13 bucks.
Hey Brian, was curious to know if you could explain something a little further, as I'm studying A/C to take the A-7 HVAC test. Anyhow, the expansion valve, is it not flooding the evaporator? The fixed-orifice-tube system, as my understanding, is a flooded system, meaning after the orifice and in the evap base is liquid, low pressure/low temp liquid, right? As for the TXV system, does the refrigerant actually turn into a vapor at the TXV? which is a variable port determined by evap outlet temp... or is it still a liquid like the FOT system? I understand the high pressure/cool liquid mistifying at the metering valve, turning to low pressure/cold liquid after. But, does the TXV system actually VAPORIZE the refrigerant at the TXV valve? Cause I would think it would think it still needs to cold liquid in the base of the evaporator for the heat exchange? If I'm understanding correctly? Lol, I know, getting all scientific about the physics of it, but like I said, I want to knoweverything about A/C for the test.
Awesome video. Thanks man. I do have a question. I have a vacuum pump that I use for pulling vacuum on residential air conditioning units. Do you know if there is an adapter to use that same pump to pull vacuum on the cars ac? Thanks
Hey man I had replace my compressor so my a.c. started working for about a month or 2 then out of nowhere it stop....my line is not cold n the high line is hot.....n my compressor clutch isn't turning ....my question is can the expansion value not working can cause my compressor clutch not to turn?? I check fuses everything is good..
Thanks for the video! I have a dual climate 04 Acura TSX which is blowing cold from passenger and room air from drivers side. Low side pressure is 25 and High side pressure is 200; however, after shutting the car off, 2 sides are very slow to equalize. Compressor doesn't cycle on/off and it does produce cool air from he passenger side. Blend door actuators do move with adjustments in temperature control. I did replace the condenser last year d/t external damage and vacuumed the system for 45 minutes prior to refilling with refrigerant. Does this sound consistent with a malfunctioning expansion valve or moisture in the system?
I have same prob. Mine will freeze low side if fan is on low and when gas accelerated. Over time head pressure will build too high. And blow.freon this happened 3 times to me. I even flushed system prob still remains.
I love how you break things down and go through the diagnosis for us it really makes a world of difference thanks
Awesome explanation . After 30 years in automotive field , simple audio/visual explanation of what an expansion valve does in a way I will never forget . Thanks & keep up to good work
Best AC condition diagnosis and explanation I've seen yet!
Thanks!
Dude, blowing air at your hand, that is the best way to explain how a/c work. You are so smart and nice.
I usually explain it to the customer this way: When the pressurized refrigerant is pushed through the small orfice, the heat is left behind on the pressurized side. It is then dissipated by blowing cooler air through it. Basically you are removing heat from inside the car and leaving it outside, the a/c is a heat exchanger.
Good video.
thank you for all the video's i go to school for 7 hours a day and sometimes just cant understand the 360 loop around things hop on your channel very well explained thanks for your time!
Well I'd be honored to be your friend. I just turned 51 and I can tell you in all my years I've met very few guys of your character and skill. Working on cars has only been a hobby for me so when I see your work I'm in awe. Learning how to repair cars involves a lot of trial and error and since I've rarely done the same repair on the same car twice it's been a whole lot of error. I did put seven axles in my 70 datsun roadster because the first 6 from scrap yards were bent so I got good at that.
Best description of the high pressure and low pressure I've heard yet! This is helping me diagnose my issue!
Excellent job!! I am not a tech but learned over the years that cleaning the condenser is 90% of an AC maintenance job. Also maintaining a quality belt on the engine permits the accessories to function properly--which of course includes the AC compressor. My current problem is trying to figure out a way to clean the condenser on my sister in laws 1997 Taurus. Ford has made access to the condenser and radiator (either side) on this car practically impossible.
It may be worth a try. I generally don't use the treatments. I'd try synthetic on the next oil change like a 0W30. My philosophy is to fix the problem. If an engine is dirty- clean it. If it's worn out- rebuild or replace it.
You explain it in such an intelligent way making it easy to understand something so complicated. I'm prepping for the HVAC ASE test and that test to me, is high level diagnosing, I failed it once so back to learning.
Thank You
Thanks for all the info. Explained it very well. A friend told me I needed to replace th expansion valve in my 2004 galant but when I go to look for one online and in the store they look similar to but not exactly the same as my friend pulled out. I figure I just need to go to the dealer and get the part there. I know they said it's about 80 bucks there. We evacuated the system and charged with some refrigerant using a machine he has. Works fine for about a day then goes hot again.
He checked for leaks in he lines and didn't see any but he mentioned maybe I needed to replace the nozzles or whatever u call them. I don't know. Just hope to fix it before summer.
This man knows his stuff. I've watched alot of his videos. Brian I'm feeding off your brain!
Thank you very much! Having an issue with low side low and barely cool air. When I'm idling the low side pressure remains, but when I start driving it eventually becomes warm and low side pressure becomes very low. Low side lines are condensation and tons of water dripping from the evap drain tube. Definitely freezing going on. I'm trying to figure out whether it's a stuck expansion valve or if there's moisture within the system. Low side was within range, but on the low end when idling before taking a drive. It was definitely opened before and I have all the reasons to believe it was neglected so they may not have vacuumed the system of moisture. Will rent gauges and vacuum pump and report back to get a real idea. Might just evacuate, vacuum, and recharge and see if I can get away with that since I'm not savvy enough to differentiate between the possible issues. Thanks again! Your video was very helpful.
You explain it in such an intelligent way making it easy to understand something so complicated. I'm prepping for the HVAC ASE test and that test is high level diagnosing
Thank You
I flattered. I've also been through a lot in life thus far too. Thanks.
Refrigerant can carry or suspend only so much oil. The manufacturer will specify the amount of oil, but it's roughly a given percentage of the refrigerant by weight. Most systems that are 1kg charge with have 6-7 oz of oil. A big system like on a van or Suburban with have close to 12 oz of oil and a 2kg charge.
I had no reason to watch this but you explain things so well I thought I might as well learn something
It depends on the car and LARGELY on what type of ignition system it has. Generally you don't want water sprayed at pressure into a spark plug boot well. Nor do you want to spray a distributor cap. Also the insulation under the hood should be left dry too. If it gets heavy it will sag and tear. MOST everything else can be pressure washed. The engine compartment is made to take a splash.
Thank you for that simple explanation of the AC system. Now I understand why every part has the name that it does.
It's tough to pull moisture out of a dryer because of those saddle bag silica gel things. The silica gel really holds onto the moisture and therefore loses capacity to hold more water. Though it's not ideal. They can be re used with success.
Yes. The fittings are also a distinct indicator
That was funny when explaining pressure drop and you said something but it wasnt making textbook sense, and then you say Thats just the way it is, lol classic
thanks man love your videos
excellent explanation of the a/c system Brian! i swear you should have your own t.v. show. Always impressed by your knowledge. cool Waterton Lakes shirt.
hey love the refrigerant shuttle bus explanation, I may have to borrow that one!
Hey Brian good clip helpful info, really appreciate it . I must mention too that I liked the example you made with YOUR MOUTH, VERY convincing
holy crap iv been waiting for a video about the a/c and u just explain it so well which is a plus unlike all these other videos iv wasted my time on
Excellent explanation. My 2015 Mustang is having A/C cooling problems and my dealer is replacing the expansion valve today. A new compressor and collector did not solve the issue. Hope this does the trick.
Thanks for the good explanation there Brian! Now I understand how AC is recirculated in a more logical way. Thanks Again...
Marc
Yes there is. Sanden compressors have a pressure relief valve, and it pops when the system is overcharged to protect the seals.
here's one for you. Nice video btw. I just replaced condenser, receiver drier, and expansion valve. pulled a vacuum for an hour and a half and charged it. It got nice and cold, worked great till I turned it of and the compressor started to cycle on and off at idle. cools down while I run it on the freeway or a long stretch of street. But on stop and go traffic, it gets hot. I replaced the condenser because it was in bad shape and was painted from overspray and the reason that started this whole a/c problem. went on and changed the expansion valve. Still have the same problem. Maybe you can shed some light. 2000 camry v6.
It's also known as a Isochoric Process. Basically - you vary the pressure while keeping the volume constant. Thus the closed system and the all-metal AC lines.
It works the same as a can of compressed air. You send a volume of air from high-pressure to low-pressure. The restriction keeps the gas from expanding in the low-pressure environment, so the temperature drops.
The expansion valve basically keeps the pressure low in the evaporator by restricting the flow of refrigerant.
If the level of charge is off it will build too much pressure too quick on the high side and cut off or it will run out of pressure on the low side from being too low and cut off to preserve the compressor from not getting lube (suspended in the refrigerant charge).
Nice video and explanation,. So when you restrict turning screw clockwise on the expansion valve in cabin blows more cold? Because I opened unclockwise, let the heat in faster to cool down the a/c pump fasters but now doesn't come out cold cold in cabin.
Looks like an accumulator I see there if I'm not mistaken. If that is the case, then this system doesn't have an expansion valve, but rather has an orifice tube instead. Just an observation.
Technically speaking the orifice tube is an expansion valve. It just won't adjust itself to anything
thanks for this information brian. very informative. as a tech i am always looking for relative information and personal perspective on subject matter. being that i live in texas i know a thing or two about a/c systems. as / chrysler diag.... if you have low pressure on the high side and high pressure on the low side, before changing the compressor it is wise to dump a cold bottle of water on the expansion valve, ice cold. this got me thinkin... in the colder months, why don't i put my system under a vacuum? this make keep any moisture away from vital components on my old ragged vehicle which i know could use a new compressor? i guess that time is coming but i would like to put it off... sorry for the mental adventure... best of luck my friend and good job again!
brian your analogies or just freakn phenomenal👏👏👏
youve got a way with words,when i done my a/c course the bloke dident want to explain anything,i swear he wanted me to fail the exam:/Anyway on vauxhall ,opels suffer with condensers that fall appart!personally i would try and stay away from bodyshop repairs as ive had them put new condensers on with no seals!cheers man
I don't use a water hose under the hood for any reason other then what Brian did in this video. if you feel the need to clean under the hood use a rag and spray the cleaner on the rag. This way you wont have any problems getting anything to wet.
I have watched several of your videos and find them to be helpful. Thanks
..and fast approaching "that" time of year again-
Great vid!
Thanks
great video and love the Ron Paul TRUTH picture in the back. I want it!
Thank you! I remember the lesson, but couldn't remember exactly why.
There's actually a really cool formula for latent heat
PV=nRT where P is pressure V is volume n is for moles/ grams R is .0821 and T is temperature. By manipulating the other variables you can control another variable. This is a good formula to understand HVAC stuff.
Great job on the video. Thanks for taking the time to shoot it. You should consider teaching too.
I love teaching, you just can't support a family and my hobbies doing it without giving up the time to one, the other, or both.
Thank you for sharing your a/c knowledge. I had the exact same thing happen on a Jeep I owned years back.
thank you, love how u break it down in explain it.. i understand a lot better.. thank you
It's latent heat because temperature remains unchanged as the heat is added. It takes a certain amount of heat before the phase change can be completed.
That's rough whereas you've got such humidity too!
Kudos for the excellent explanation, Brian. I think EricTheCarGuy turned me on to your channel, and you seem to have the right stuff as far as cars goes. Keep it up!
im not sure how much this will help, but like brian said. be carefull around the ignition. and radiator, be careful you dont bend the fins. and be sure to wash out all soaps and detergents if you use any. most importantly just start your car run it to opperateing temp for a few minutes after you wash it, it will get the water out of the places it shouldnt be in before it will do damage.
I admire your knowledge AND your pic!
thank you. also what was the amount of coolent I should add? I think its 1.5 pounds and also how much oil should I put in it?
Latent heat is the consistent temp as the process of turning liquid to vapor the temp remains the same then once vaporized it becomes sensible temp and begins changing. The temps are crucial to know the state of the refrigerant. Hot and cold tels us nothing. Vacuum into microns and turn off the pump and watch the microns to make sure the stay under 500
I think the thing that really made me step back and go, NO CHIT!!! About any HVAC system is the fact that your not making the air cooler, instead you are remove heat from the air. By remove heat from the air inturn the air gets cooler. And also that there is no way to measure coldness but inturn we measure level of or lack of heat.
It sounds like either that or possible accumulation of moisture or overcharging.
ive got a 95 chevy tahoe that the a/c system was open for at least 4 months before i closed the system and a month ago me and my friend whos a mechanic took a can of freon and threw it in the tahoe and it took. he said it had a air pocket in the system but somehow it moved so now the a/c works in it and that was the first time hes seen a a/c system do that
I have a 2002 silverado, It cools very good when your driving on shorter trips, but if you drive for an hour or so straight the air begins to drop off until its barely moving any air. If you keep the fan on high it seems to last longer but if you turn the fan speed down it stops sooner. I did change the fan relay. Do you have any suggestions?
I bet you the cabin expender is getting ICED UP by faulty TXV... perhaps it is simply not sensing correctly OR cabin air filter is partially plugged up
Awesome video as usual Brian. I love A/C in all forms so any video about air conditioning is great! Also, I'm curious, do you have an air conditioner for the shop?
Welcome!
That's alot for my brain to absorb but I got the Basics People need to wash the crud out ofthe radiator also at least once a year in the spring so the air can flow through
On my RV, I replaced the expansion valve and drier. Ran a 3 CFM vacuum for 2 hrs. Charged the system with refrigerant and my expansion valve looks like a block of ice. My AC line does get cool but I get negative low pressure on the low side gauge. I’m in a vacuum with the engine running and AC on max. I don’t know what else to do?
If you have to keep filling it, there's a leak. If you don't see a leak in the engine bay, it could be the evaporator, which requires pulling the instrument panel to replace.
You should not have to keep filling the A/C system. It is not considered a regularly refilled system.
If I thought that there was that much moisture in the a/c system I would have replaced the receiver/drier.
Most of the heat in the high side of the system is induced by the compression of the refrigerant, not the small amount of heat picked up in the evaporator.
Maybe a script would help you when trying to explain the more technical aspects of automotive repair.
Another great video Brian. Well explained, thanks.
I haven't. I know brake parts cleaner work phenomenal though.
Great explanation Brian, Thanks.
great explanation
My 2003 Maxima AC both high and low sides have the same pressure around 90psi even though the compressor is engaged and running. Could be it be the compressor is dead or the TXV is stuck wide open?
I like this video he explain everything thanks for showing this video.
Your'e welcome!
so was it the condensor or low on freon or a pre mature diagnosis
Great vid and Love the Ron Paul poster. ;)
Hello Brian, what made you decide to not replace the expansion valve and just add a little freeon after evacuating the system.
Great video and an excellent diagnosis.
Not sure what you mean by that. What do you mean?
Brian, did you go to automotive school, or did you learn everything on your own?...it seems you know how to do everything on cars! great video bro!
Hey Brian how would you know or there is a way to tell if there is moisture in the AC system? I just bought a use car and the ac coming from the vent is at 60 it will not get colder then that unless I get on the highway and it will go down to 57. Thanks!!
Great video! So, anyone by chance know if low refrigerant could cause heavy/thick frost to form on both AC lines straight out of the compressor or is thick frost buildup on both AC lines something else(?) I’m experiencing this issue on my 03 5.9 Ram. The AC actually blows slightly cool (45ish) when the ac’s 1st turned on but then loses most of its coolness the longer the ac runs(?) I’m beginning to wonder if the issue could be caused from having a broken blend door inside the blower motor compartment letting in too much hot air(?) If anyone has any thoughts re what’s causing the excessive frost buildup + the diminishing cool air output in the cabin… I’d sure appreciate some suggestions re what to check 1st - Thanks!
Did you find out?
@@forrestphotography8767 - Actually, I found out my trucks AC was low on refrigerant. Problem went away after topping off the refrigerant. Also, for what it’s worth, I had read some where that a bad fan clutch could cause some AC issues as well.
They now makes a r134 extreme cold . I have a 91 camery with r12 and it was 38 degrees with r12 and now converted with r134 extreme cold it runs 41 when its 98 outside . I am unsure whats in that stuff but it works great. I also hav a 2003 with r134 and it does not get as cold as the camery . If you have to recharge r134a I would try the extreme version.I got mine at NAPA 13 bucks.
Hey Brian, was curious to know if you could explain something a little further, as I'm studying A/C to take the A-7 HVAC test. Anyhow, the expansion valve, is it not flooding the evaporator? The fixed-orifice-tube system, as my understanding, is a flooded system, meaning after the orifice and in the evap base is liquid, low pressure/low temp liquid, right? As for the TXV system, does the refrigerant actually turn into a vapor at the TXV? which is a variable port determined by evap outlet temp... or is it still a liquid like the FOT system? I understand the high pressure/cool liquid mistifying at the metering valve, turning to low pressure/cold liquid after. But, does the TXV system actually VAPORIZE the refrigerant at the TXV valve? Cause I would think it would think it still needs to cold liquid in the base of the evaporator for the heat exchange? If I'm understanding correctly? Lol, I know, getting all scientific about the physics of it, but like I said, I want to knoweverything about A/C for the test.
Thanks
Hi! Can i just ask, do you have to fully wrap the expansion valve?
Awesome video. Thanks man. I do have a question. I have a vacuum pump that I use for pulling vacuum on residential air conditioning units. Do you know if there is an adapter to use that same pump to pull vacuum on the cars ac?
Thanks
great vid on ac...ty for posting...you do great work
very good and down to earth explanation, thanks
Hey man I had replace my compressor so my a.c. started working for about a month or 2 then out of nowhere it stop....my line is not cold n the high line is hot.....n my compressor clutch isn't turning ....my question is can the expansion value not working can cause my compressor clutch not to turn?? I check fuses everything is good..
Great video....You explain very well...I subbed....Thanks for your knowledge!!!
What would happen if you vacuum it down and left the gauges open then charge it would it cause the same problem or would the drier get whats left
Thanks...from Philippines.
Have you tried condenser cleaner form a residential HVAC store for cleaning automotive condensers?
I love a/c work. Nice video....
Thanks man! So how long did you vacuum it down and hold it?
Thanks Brian. great explanation..
Yes!!! Your a Ron Paul fan!!!
Really good video thanks for the info
Brian, How much oil is used in a auto A/C system? And how do you know if there's to much or to little? Great video!!!!
big help thanks learned alot
Thanks for the video! I have a dual climate 04 Acura TSX which is blowing cold from passenger and room air from drivers side. Low side pressure is 25 and High side pressure is 200; however, after shutting the car off, 2 sides are very slow to equalize. Compressor doesn't cycle on/off and it does produce cool air from he passenger side. Blend door actuators do move with adjustments in temperature control. I did replace the condenser last year d/t external damage and vacuumed the system for 45 minutes prior to refilling with refrigerant. Does this sound consistent with a malfunctioning expansion valve or moisture in the system?
I should clarify, compressor stays running, it doesn't repetitively cycle on and off.
I have same prob. Mine will freeze low side if fan is on low and when gas accelerated. Over time head pressure will build too high. And blow.freon this happened 3 times to me. I even flushed system prob still remains.
@@kas0016 txv is bad
bad txv
Thanks!