Despite the seemingly poor job of electrolysis, the restoration job was beautiful, and the hand operated grinder looks much better than before. Great work.
Suggestions: The sound of scratching and pounding on the table is annoying. Minimize it. Don’t wiggle the parts when you hold them up for us to see. It is hard to see them while they are moving. Still is fine. I do like that you don’t have music, this isn’t a broadway play. ;-)
You really need to take some time and research what those processes you are using actually do and how they do them. I bet you were not happy with the results from your electrolysis. It was done wrong. - Heavier gauge wire would be helpful. EACH PIECE needs to have a wire so the current can run through it. The sacrificial iron piece needs much more surface area. It needs to just about match the surface area of your piece to be cleaned. Do some research on the best chemical(s) to add to the water for the electrolyte. - Penetrating oil is just that, for penetrating into joined but rusted surfaces so they can be separated. It IS NOT a full rust removing chemical for all those flat surfaces. I am assuming you were using "WD-40". The name means "Water Displacement formula number 40". It does just that, gets a very light lubricant into tight areas by displacing any water. It may also be used to help remove water from rough surfaces like after you do the electrolysis process and it leaves an oily surface behind to prevent flash rusting. - The sand papers you were using were not aggressive enough at the point you were using them. As you saw they did not do much. That grit level was for later in the process when you are trying to remove the scratches from a coarser grit that should be used first. Match the grit size more closely with the pits on the piece you are trying to smooth. This heavier grit will leave scratches that you then remove later with progressively finer grits of paper. -I'm not sure what the chemicals were that were blue you used later but it looked like you wanted to clean the brass bushings. Again, research and understand your chemical processes. What works for brass will be ineffective on other metals. -You can use small end brushes in your rotary tool to help get into tight places like the ends of the slots and gear teeth. Pro tip: put a piece of heat shrink around the bristles of that small end wire brush to keep them compact for those tight areas. - Use a wire brush ALONG the knurling pattern in the knobs not across the pattern for more efficiency. - There was a wooden handle required at the end of this tool's crank lever. (The small screw in there was not the correct piece.) And lastly, -The interior of the tool needs a heavy grease on all gear teeth and bushing surfaces. Your video work is fantastic! You have that figured out! Excellent! Keep trying! You'll be great!
Despite the seemingly poor job of electrolysis, the restoration job was beautiful, and the hand operated grinder looks much better than before. Great work.
Super jesteś Zrobione odrestaurowany tylko takie elementy to się piaskuje i trzeba drewnianą rączkę założyć do tego młynkę Pozdrawiam serdecznie. 👍👍👍👍
Ce travail des fainéant 😮j'espère que vous allez finir à vec
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Worst rust electrolysis removal ever 👎🏼
Suggestions:
The sound of scratching and pounding on the table is annoying. Minimize it.
Don’t wiggle the parts when you hold them up for us to see. It is hard to see them while they are moving. Still is fine.
I do like that you don’t have music, this isn’t a broadway play. ;-)
You really need to take some time and research what those processes you are using actually do and how they do them.
I bet you were not happy with the results from your electrolysis. It was done wrong.
- Heavier gauge wire would be helpful. EACH PIECE needs to have a wire so the current can run through it. The sacrificial iron piece needs much more surface area. It needs to just about match the surface area of your piece to be cleaned. Do some research on the best chemical(s) to add to the water for the electrolyte.
- Penetrating oil is just that, for penetrating into joined but rusted surfaces so they can be separated. It IS NOT a full rust removing chemical for all those flat surfaces. I am assuming you were using "WD-40". The name means "Water Displacement formula number 40". It does just that, gets a very light lubricant into tight areas by displacing any water. It may also be used to help remove water from rough surfaces like after you do the electrolysis process and it leaves an oily surface behind to prevent flash rusting.
- The sand papers you were using were not aggressive enough at the point you were using them. As you saw they did not do much. That grit level was for later in the process when you are trying to remove the scratches from a coarser grit that should be used first. Match the grit size more closely with the pits on the piece you are trying to smooth. This heavier grit will leave scratches that you then remove later with progressively finer grits of paper.
-I'm not sure what the chemicals were that were blue you used later but it looked like you wanted to clean the brass bushings. Again, research and understand your chemical processes. What works for brass will be ineffective on other metals.
-You can use small end brushes in your rotary tool to help get into tight places like the ends of the slots and gear teeth. Pro tip: put a piece of heat shrink around the bristles of that small end wire brush to keep them compact for those tight areas.
- Use a wire brush ALONG the knurling pattern in the knobs not across the pattern for more efficiency.
- There was a wooden handle required at the end of this tool's crank lever. (The small screw in there was not the correct piece.)
And lastly, -The interior of the tool needs a heavy grease on all gear teeth and bushing surfaces.
Your video work is fantastic! You have that figured out! Excellent!
Keep trying! You'll be great!