This is a brilliant solution. I've had both screw heads gone bad, which is not unusual, but it got worse. At first, made small cuts in both of them so I could still use them with a flathead screwdriver. But I had some front brake problems which caused me to screw and unscrew it a lot and the plastic threads didn't hold up eventually. Then took 7 mm hex bolts, shortened them and ground down the head. This worked well for a while because they're a bit longer than the original screws, so it would still grab on to a bit of decent thread, but ultimately on the front brake it wouldn't hold up. Was thinking about helicoils, but this seems easier to get right. Excited to get started on this, great stuff!
Lol you helped me from a mental breakdown. I overtightened it with not even 2Nm First i used a hot glue pistol with works okay, later on i think I'll do this
Tools are way and not expensive: Alu Tube is like 2€, thread cutter is like 5€ tool for it it's also 5€, Drill machine and 8mm is something you have at home. Glue is 10€. Cheap and easy fix
Awesome. I bought a replacement Ultegra Di2 lever as I thought I had written mine off due to the stripped thread. I'll try to repair my old one. Be good to have a spare 👍
Thanks for yet again a great tutorial mate! Just installed a couple of grx 400 on a gravel bike (got them second hand, with hoses cut because of internal routing on previous bike). Supposedly both were working fine, as they were almost brand new, but when I went to bleed them after connecting the hoses back up again, the rear went nice and easy, but I can't get the oil to cycle through the system in the front, it seems it gets stuck between the cylinder and the reservoir (although when I press the lever, it pushed the remaining oil, and I can see bubbles through the tiny holes in the reservoir, and the hole where the hose taps in). Have you ever encountered something like that? If so, I would love some pointers! Thanks
Many thanks for your videos. I have a 9170 lever that is being naughty and i'm keen to find out how to dismantle it. Have you tried this and do you have nay videos/links to follow? Many thanks
I also have a stripped thread, mine is in a ST-R8070 bleed port. Mine was done at the factory, as the screw has never been out. It's now outside the warranty period. A friend of mine made a flanged brass bush and tapped it to M7 x 1.0 as per the video, installed it, only to find that the pitch is .75. Does anyone know for sure what model/s shifters have a 1.0 pitch
Mf bike shop did mines last year on both bikes. They were tightened to the point my Allen key was twisting quite a bit😤. One of them keeps turning now due to sheared treads😭
Thanks for the Video! I was wondering, instead of building an new screw port from alu, If we can just use a plug from silicon after the drilling. A donation was sent from Germany. To the other: please support this type of video by doing the same...
I've just made my own with alumumium tube. Happy to send you one or two if you're in UK. You will still need to drill out the existing hole with an 8mm drill and then probably carefully sand the opening so the piece will fit. I used some araldite to fix it in place.
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I was not expecting anyone to have a solution to this problem. Thank you for a great video and helping me save some money! :D
Thanks for sharing this solution. Saved me a massive headache and cost of a new shifter!
This is a brilliant solution. I've had both screw heads gone bad, which is not unusual, but it got worse. At first, made small cuts in both of them so I could still use them with a flathead screwdriver. But I had some front brake problems which caused me to screw and unscrew it a lot and the plastic threads didn't hold up eventually. Then took 7 mm hex bolts, shortened them and ground down the head. This worked well for a while because they're a bit longer than the original screws, so it would still grab on to a bit of decent thread, but ultimately on the front brake it wouldn't hold up.
Was thinking about helicoils, but this seems easier to get right. Excited to get started on this, great stuff!
Another amazing video. Thank you. Hopefully I'll never need to use it.
Thanks, I stripped out this bleeder screw port as well and its tough to find helic coils for this size of screw. Thanks!
Great video. I have a couple of shifters where this is definitely starting to happen.
I'm impressed a real repair
Amazing--exactly the expert help I needed, again!!
Lol you helped me from a mental breakdown. I overtightened it with not even 2Nm
First i used a hot glue pistol with works okay, later on i think I'll do this
Great tip ...
TORX did the trick. Thanks !
That is an excellent idea to solve this problem.. absolut top.....Greetings from Germany
Mine got stripped putting on a aftermarket ti plug but it's a r8070 which doesn't have the piece at the side that can be removed as shown in the video
hope i'll never need that but very useful to know, some of those di2 levers are really pricey
I wish I had tools like you have
Tools are way and not expensive: Alu Tube is like 2€, thread cutter is like 5€ tool for it it's also 5€,
Drill machine and 8mm is something you have at home.
Glue is 10€. Cheap and easy fix
Great…..a hard work that need some skills: 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Awesome. I bought a replacement Ultegra Di2 lever as I thought I had written mine off due to the stripped thread. I'll try to repair my old one. Be good to have a spare 👍
Thanks for yet again a great tutorial mate!
Just installed a couple of grx 400 on a gravel bike (got them second hand, with hoses cut because of internal routing on previous bike). Supposedly both were working fine, as they were almost brand new, but when I went to bleed them after connecting the hoses back up again, the rear went nice and easy, but I can't get the oil to cycle through the system in the front, it seems it gets stuck between the cylinder and the reservoir (although when I press the lever, it pushed the remaining oil, and I can see bubbles through the tiny holes in the reservoir, and the hole where the hose taps in). Have you ever encountered something like that? If so, I would love some pointers! Thanks
This is amazing, can I send my crossed thread shifter to you for the repair
Hello, can you use M6 Self Tapping Insert
Good hack if it did give up again you just drill it out and repeat the process
Did you ever think about a Helcoil thread do you think that ywould work
Many thanks for your videos. I have a 9170 lever that is being naughty and i'm keen to find out how to dismantle it. Have you tried this and do you have nay videos/links to follow? Many thanks
Hello. Can you tell me the exact size of the tab?
(pitch size)
That might save my 8050-sti :D
How they should have been made in the first place. What did they save, 2 grams in weight? Ridicoulus.
I also have a stripped thread, mine is in a ST-R8070 bleed port. Mine was done at the factory, as the screw has never been out. It's now outside the warranty period.
A friend of mine made a flanged brass bush and tapped it to M7 x 1.0 as per the video, installed it, only to find that the pitch is .75. Does anyone know for sure what model/s shifters have a 1.0 pitch
R8070 will be .75 thread
Привет
Подскажи пожалуйста чем открутить винт на st-rx400 под которым находится поршень .
Mf bike shop did mines last year on both bikes. They were tightened to the point my Allen key was twisting quite a bit😤. One of them keeps turning now due to sheared treads😭
Thanks for the Video!
I was wondering,
instead of building an new screw port from alu,
If we can just use a plug from silicon after the drilling.
A donation was sent from Germany.
To the other: please support this type of video by doing the same...
What about using helicoil? Wouldn’t it work the same, without manufacturing the part? You have skills that most people (including myself) don’t have…
I tried helicoil. It's not meant for liquid-tight applications and leaks.
Just by Change. Are you willing yo sell a piece? I dont have the talent neither the tool to do it :(
I've just made my own with alumumium tube. Happy to send you one or two if you're in UK. You will still need to drill out the existing hole with an 8mm drill and then probably carefully sand the opening so the piece will fit. I used some araldite to fix it in place.