Toyota 4runner rear differential removal in 35 minutes! The 3rd member needs bearings.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- I pull out the differential in my 2000 4 runner in about 35 minutes. This is the same process for an FJ or a Tacoma. Toyota 3rd member rebuild.
I guess the paradise part is having a lift in your garage.
Its actually my parents lift but it definitely makes my projects much easier!
Great job!
My 2018 Taco trd off-road leaking around housing. No recall from Toyota only 2016-2017 models had a recall. I guess I must do it myself.
Thanks so much for video
My sway bar was in the way on my 93 4 Runner and I had to remove the bracket's I went with the 5.29 gears from Yukon and love them with 35 inch tires. Has lots of power now and I'm at 3000 rpm and doing 70 mph. And can use 5th gear. It made a world of difference.
Spent 1 hour trying to get those rusty brake line fasteners without breaking them. 😂 finally I replaced everything including the brake lines.
😆. I’ve been there! Rust makes a simple job take all day !
Thank for the video really helpfull i will be doing the same tomorrow i have a 2000 4 runner and at 50 mph there a pretty heavy vibration only while im pushing the gax pedal
Definitely check your u-joints first and check the magnet for metal shavings when you drain the diff
@@PoorMansParadise my u joint near the rear diff is so shut the metal cap is broken lol
Wow! Easier fix than a differential though!
Great video 👍
I'm having the hardest time pulling my diff out, it's like the gears are stuck
Thanks for taking the time to put this up. Got any vibrations? I seem to have a pretty bad vibration once it’s hot and de acceleration from 75 to 55.. I tightened up front wheel bearings (4x4) they were pretty loose that helped a bit but still pretty bad out back. I’m starting to wonder if this is my problem.
It was pretty rough before I replaced the diff. If you haven’t checked all your u-joints start with that.
GOOD VIDIO!!! Thank You ,
Thanks for making this video. I had some questions for you. I have heard that removing the axles out all the way is not necessary. Some people are saying that they just need to slide 3 to 4 inches out and it gives it enough room for the third member to come out. Can anyone confirm this? I am thinking that with the brake lines being hard lines I don’t want to overstretched them or cause any damage. Thinking I may just remove the axles like you did in your video and I have seen in others it would just mean having to do a little bit of extra work and bleed the brakes once I’m all finished. I’m assuming you did this when you did the job before? 2. Not to be OCD or over critical but why not put a vacuum cap or something on the end of your brake lines to avoid brake fluid leaking all over the place? 3. Curious as to why your E locker motor was not working? I have learned in doing this that if you remove the E locker motor you need to make sure that you’re putting it back on in the same position it was removed so if you remove the E locker motor with the Diff unlocked you need to put it back on with it unlocked as well or vice versa if you removed it with the diff locked you need to put it back on in the locked position. Factory Service manual says that when removing the third member or putting another one in it’s easier in the locked position. Also noticed what looked like to be a gear oil stain below your third member and also that you’re Gasket was torn in half some staying on the axle housing some staying on the third member. Ever used The Toyota FIPG? From what I hear it’s the better option than the paper gasket .
Yes the axles only need to be moved about 4 inches to get the third member out. In my case there wasn’t enough play in the metal lines so it was easier to pull them all the way out rather than leave them hanging out part way. This way you can inspect the axle seals as well and make sure they are in good shape. If you want to buy some caps and cap off the brake lines and save the old fluid you can. I prefer to put fresh in so I let it drain in this case. It doesn’t come poring out. Just slowly drips so I let it drip into a bucket . My elocker was shot. The inside was completely corroded so I had to replace it. And you are correct the elocker motor needs to be in the same orientation as the mechanical locker in the diff. So if the motor is in the locked position you need to make sure the diff is in the locked position. Super easy to do. You can reach into the locker with a screwdriver and flip it between locked/unlocked. I haven’t used the Toyota brand fipg. I typically use permatex rtv if I’m using a gasket maker. If your using a gasket maker instead of a real gasket I’d just let it set up and dry a bit longer before filling the diff back up with gear oil. Good luck with your project!
If you need something like this fixed, how much should it cost you?
Hard to say for sure. If it can be rebuilt probably somewhere around $2,000. If you have to put a new one in maybe $4,000.
Can a bent rear end cause the brakes to lock up ? Also is better to rebuild or replace the whole rear end ?
If the axle isn’t too rusty I prefer rebuilding them. That way you know what you have. I have swapped entire axles and ended up with a noisy one I had to rebuild anyway . I’m not sure if the brakes would lock up from a bent axle but I suppose it’s possible
Did your diff have a lot of play in it? Mine does changing the clutch on mine an noticed it last night
The bad ones had a lot of play but were also very noisy. The rebuilt rear end has some backlash but it was pretty tight otherwise .
Why did your brake line not leak fluid?
Not sure what you’re talking about the trip most the video as soon as he removed his brake lines. Simple fix would be putting a vacuum cap on the end of the brake lines to avoid brake fluid leaking all over the place
*they dripped
Why is there so much rust in there?
I live in the Midwest and we use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. Most cars are pretty rusty in less than 10 years
@@PoorMansParadise So, it’s not a good idea to buy a used car from Denver Colorado?
@@cesarorozco2462 denver area doesn’t Have the bitter cold like we do here in Wisconsin so they don’t use as much salt. I would stay away from cars from the Minnesota, Wisconsin area if you can! The rust is terrible!
@@PoorMansParadise I saw a very nice car for sale in Denver Colorado, and it was a one Omer car. The guy told be that it only had surface rust and that he had spray it to protect it. I think it’s some kind of paint but I wonder if the rust will come out in the future. What do you think?
If it’s just surface rust on the frame and he caught it early enough it will probably be fine as long as you get it away from the salt. Look it over very closely . Rust is one thing that is hard to fix.