Clear and Precise best how to video ever (camera work, narration, lighting, Audio,) I’m now ready to go change out my diff centre!!!! Full of confidence👍
Im glad i found your video, my buddies been wrenching on heavy equipment, semis, dump trucks, trucks, cars, boats for 40 years or more. I told him i needed my differential bearings replaced and asked if he had the right tools to do it. He asked what tools? I said well to set the pre tension, the paste to check gear spacing the stuff i saw guys using on utube videos. He just laughed at me, said if i wasn't changing gears he didn't need the high dollar crap. He said you do it by feel if you know what your doing lol. Watched your video and i feel better about having him do it now.
great video and awesome instruction. i can tell you put alot of work into this video, and i certainly appreciate it. i feel much more comfortable tackling this job
Nice and clear explanation throughout video! I will say carrier bearing preload seems quite loose imo. Once backlash is set go back and forth, or focus on ring gear side and tighten those bearing adjusters as tight as you can get them. There is a tremendous amount of torque going through the ring and pinion and deflection will happen without enough carrier bearing pre-load. It will not damage the carrier bearings by having too much preload. Well over 100 ft/lbs on the adjusters is common.
Thanks for the info! If I would have followed all the factory directions we would have checked the carrier preload. Toyota gives specs for pinion preload by itself and additional pinion preload after the carrier has been installed and adjusted. The adjusters have to be adjusted to meet the preload requirements.
I use the hot tank on the housing and it does help. I have also seen dry ice used to cool the bearing races before install to shrink them. And a hot plate on the bearings to install on the pinion.
Excellent video. I have watched several videos in preparation for rebuilding the front diff of my ‘77 FJ40. This cleared up several questions I had. Much appreciated.
I rebuilt my toyota 7.5 and installed a locker back when i was in community college 2015 automotive service technology. I forgot how i did it. This video refreshed my memory. I want to change my ring and pinion gears, can i reuse the bearings that i replaced years ago? Do i need new crush sleeve and shims?
The welding trick did the trick! I had to do it for both races because hitting the larger one from the back didn't budge and I was afraid to damage the housing. I don't see how else they come out.
The Pio on bearing removal tool requires the bearing outer race to be in place and you lift it off by pressing on the rollers, this way you don’t need to get under the inner race of the bearing,, this did my head I at first but that what make this tool so clever.
Very professional process and clear explanation! My friend has a 2004 Tacoma with 260k miles. The rear diff has some major play at the front pinion bearing.... But no leaks or bad sounds. Should I just try tightening the flange nut to reduce the slop?
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics excessive rotational play or up and down play? If the pinion is sloppy up and down you can try tightening up the nut but normally the bearings are worn and will start to make noise after tightening(unless someone didn’t tighten up enough in the past) If the play is rotational play then the pinion nut probably won’t help and you would have to remover the diff to adjust the carrier so the backlash is reduced.
Very nice tool by Yukon for removing the pinion bearing what model number is that tool so I can grab one should also work on 2000 3rd gens as well there are no links in the description sir
Since you got fire involved, you might as well had just cut the race out. I worked for a logger who could do stuff like that. Definitely exemplary of making it work with what you have!
Do you add friction modifier to the rear-ended gear oil ? I just came across to ask you Toyota shops say so I helps with the chader in turns parts stores gear oil doesn't have it in the oil 🙋
Great video! I'm about to install a Detroit truetrac in my 4r, is there a way to find the correct carrier bearings without having to buy an entire diff bearing/shim kit?
This vehicle looks like it lived it's life in the desert...like brand new underneath! I just have to replace that front pinion oil seal. Am I going to be able to get that front pinion off, w/out complete disassembly? (after removing the castle nut)
Thank you for posting.. This is a GREAT reference! I'm guessing that is a non-locking open carrier that you are working on.. Do you know if the process is the same for a non-locking limited slip? Thanks for any info..
On the inner pinion bearing, would it be ok to warm it up first on this application? I install bearings on spindles at work on heavy mobile cranes and we warm the bearings to 350F and they slide right on. Wait a bit for them to slowly cool. Just wondering if these little bearings could take that. Cheers. Great video .
Great question!!! I had to do some digging to see if I could find some accurate information and learned quite a bit along the way. I found that people heat bearing to all different temps before install but I found a article from SKF that recommends a maximum of 257F or you can risk changing the metal's attributes. The article shows very large bearing but it should apply to the smaller pinion bearings as well. Here is a link www.lubsys.com/knowledge/knw_heatmnt.htm Thanks for the question and for checking out the video👍🏻
This is a perfectly acceptable way to install bearings without a press. Throw your pinion in the freezer over night and toss the bearings in your oven at 350 degrees for 10 minutes or so. Take out frozen pinion, take bearing and slide it right in place. This can be done on the carrier as well. The freezer part will not have as much of an effect as the heated bearings, but it works well. You can also use a heat gun to warm the bearing. Also, you can wrap the bearings in water soaked rags, and put them in the microwave for 90 seconds.
Here is the bearing tool. Https://amzn.to/3k3THJL And here is one of the best quality differential supply companies other than their dealer. www.randysworldwide.com/product-category/ring-pinion-gear-sets?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq-6fzoS57AIVmz2tBh1qEAB1EAAYASAAEgKwUPD_BwE
So my 2004 seal is leaking, can I just take the pinion out and replace it without replacing any parts? just gaskets? Any hints to do it quicker? Thanks in advance!!
If it is just the pinion seal you don’t need to remove the third member from the vehicle. You can service the seal buy removing the driveshaft and pinion flange. You should mark the nut so you can try and get it back to the same location when reinstalled.
Have you guys considered investing in a bearing induction heater and/or liquid nitrogen to install those bearings and races? Much faster and no potential bearing damage as opposed to cold mounting. Liquid nitrogen alone will suffice and really cheap to use
I ordered a induction hot plate but have not tried it yet. The bearing induction heaters are very expensive from what I’ve seen in the past. Many of them don’t accommodate smaller bearing as well. I have not used liquid nitrogen but I will check into it. Thanks for the tips!!👍🏼🔧
At 3:00 The bearing kits here in 🇦🇺 come with a New Deflector ... Simply punch the Deflector and bearing cone out with a punch .. No Welding required .. May save you half an hour of welding and slag if you can source the $5 Deflector ?
@@kevwills858 I agree with you. It’s not worth $5 to waste time. The deflector didn’t come with my bearing kit unfortunately and welding only took about 5 minutes. The welding trick also works wonders in other places. Yesterday one of my technicians was having difficulty with a Toyota sienna front wheel bearing because the race was rusted into the knuckle. I told him to quit messing with it and grab the welder. 5 minutes later I heard the race hit the floor. Not only does the weld shrink the race but the heat also helps to break free any rust binding the components together.
It takes me 5minutes to drag my welder out and set it up 😄 .. I've welded a quite a few Dry Cylinder Liners in old Perkins engines (insitu), it's the only way to release the rusted Liner from the Block .. (another old trick👍)
lol I'm just messing with you. but you know how it is between people that work on cars. and how someone will be serious af and make brawpapap sound and a grrrrttt grretttt sound and then someone will say "what sound did it make again" lmao. good video though. I'm doing a samurai axle and it is identical to the Toyota axles except its like 7/8 scale lol .
looking at your videos before I tackle replacing the 10 bolt Differential Gasket on my 08 FJ.. do you apply any sort of sealer onto the new gasket or just pop the old one out, clean the faces, new one in, and bolt it back up?
It should seal up just fine with the paper gasket but some will apply a thin coat of sealer anyways. The factory didn’t have any sealer applied on the paper gasket.
For people without a welder: No need to weld the race to get it out, instead cut a large washer in half to clear the deflector, set both halfs of the washer onto the race and press it out. Or just order a new deflector which is inexpensive. This is a good step by step video though
Thanks for the washer tip. I will take a look at the next one I pull apart and try it out. There are times when I don’t have access to air or a welder.
Thanks very much for the video! Got a question about the companion flange. What would happen if I use a flange with the rubber dampener (2WD) to an all time 4WD 4runner? Reason I asked is I’m just buying a 3rd member with the 2wd flange and don’t want to change the flange for fear of messing up the preload. Thanks in advance!
It should be ok either way. The two wheel drive version must have had harmonic vibrations that were absorbed by the transfer case on the 4wd and awd versions.
ThePracticalMechanic hi. One more question. What sealant do you use to join the 3rd member to the main axle? I bought a gasket from Toyota but do I have to apply a sealant as well? What sealant would that be? Thanks in advance!
Radius if your using the new Toyota gasket sealer shouldn’t be needed. That make future service easier. I use Ford gray rtv sealer for my personal vehicles.
I don’t remember how much the rebuild kit for this particular one cost ($300-400 is normal for quality bearings) but parts and labor for this job typically ends up between $900-1200.
Great! Video do you happen to have a video of how it sounded while driving im trying to determine if I have the same issue. While I'm driving and foot on the gas is fine but when i ease off the gas (decel) its when i hear the noise (huming/rumblings)which seems to come from my rear of the runner. 2003 v8 4wd.
Efren Bautista I tried to capture it but the audio didn’t come out. Rumbling could be the ujoints or the rear end. I currently have a 1996 that needs rear end bearings and it rumbles slightly if I completely lift my foot from gas pedal but it whines if I feather the gas on and of. If I do a video on that one I will try to capture some audio of the noise.
@@ThePracticalMechanic thank you I appreciate it.. I removed the diff oil and plug and found shavings but no big chunks.. While driving would only rumble when i get off the gas
Thanks for the video! having a difficult time determining if the groan sound I'm hearing on my 2005 is from the diff or wheel bearing, brought to a couple of mechanics and they haven't been able to pinpoint. Sound does seem to emanate from the rear but I know sound can travel an can be deceiving. The sound changes at different speeds, very noticable at 50km/h and 90km/h. Attempted swerve test and seems to kind of lessen a bit when going left but hard to replicate consistently. Any other tests or suggestions on determining what is causing the sound, find it very bothersome and would like to have fixed. Thanks!
If the differential bearing are bad they will often make a different tone when acceleration and decelerating. The wheel bearings normally will change when swerving side to side but not always.
Hey I replaced the rear differential and now the 4x4 takes a long time to lock ...do I need to reset the anything?? Since I disconnected the rear sensor ?
The rear diff shouldn’t affect the time it takes to engage because the rear is engaged all the time. Does it take a long time while driving down the road? While stationary? Was the gear ratio the same as the unit that was removed?
@@ThePracticalMechanic I know it takes a little long to engage but now it takes 5 times longer while driving . The differential was from a 2004 SR5 4wd and mine is a 2005 SR5 4wd Thanks a lot for your prompt response!!
Caza Y Pesca once it engages does it feel like it binds up? Example if you have a area with pavement for 20 ft and then it switches to gravel. Put it 4wd and drive in a straight line and slowly pull onto the gravel if it feels like it’s binding up when on the pavement and then releases when you hit the gravel then the gear ratio may be incorrect. I hope that make since.
I normally don’t check them if I’m just replacing the bearings. If I can’t get a quality brand of bearing then I will check the pattern because I don’t trust the pinion depth will remain close the the original bearing. If I’m also replacing gears then I will start with the original pinion shim and then check my pattern and adjust accordingly.
@@MiguelFleitasMikkang at 18:20 I talk about bearing options. I got this set from Randy’s Ring and Pinion. Toyota parts department would be good option as well. Local parts stores seem to have a hard time getting the correct bearings.
From the factory there is only a thin paper gasket. If both surfaces are clean and flat the paper will seal. If there are any imperfection then RTV sealant will be required. Ultra black or ultra grey is what I use and then let the sealant dry/cure before installing new fluid.
I have a leak on my 2000 4runner rear diff right at the housing of the axle tube to the 3rd member Housing right near the bolts on the bottom and sidee and I can't seem to get it sealed what could be the problem ?
If it’s leaking where the tube goes into the housing then it may be difficult to seal. First thing I would check is the differential vent and make sure it isn’t plugged up. It is located on the driver side top of the differential housing. It has a little metal cap that is crimped onto a metal nipple. The cap should be able to move up and down as well as spin. Dirt gets into the cap and causes the blockage. As you drive the increased pressure will make everything leak much faster. You may have to removed the 3rd member and clean the inside and outside area of the leak and then apply sealant to both sides. Let the sealant dry overnight before putting fluid back in
I can already feel the misery of trying to do this without the proper tools. How much does it usually cost for it to be professionally rebuilt by you guys?
@@jtg2737 ast 7200. Here is one price well on eBay if your ok with used. www.ebay.com/itm/166289077975?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8wXTI_s-TkO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=FaFC5sdKRTm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Nice! Subbed. My Tacoma clunks when i put it into reverse when it's cold. Sounds like it's coming from the rear end. It doesn't clunk or hardly clunks at all if I let go of the brakes right when I put it into reverse. I took it to a shop and they suggested to take it to another shop that specializes in rear ends. I've also had a few tell me it could be U-Joints. I recorded a video under the truck and showed another mechanic and he said it looked like there was excessive backlash. Any idea what the issue is? I'd like to rebuild it myself if I knew what parts to replace or what to look for. Thanks!
Johnathan Hartzell it could be the rear end but it could be u joints as well. If you email the clip to chad@thepracticalmechanic.com I will take a look.
There is only one shim on this version and it is under the inner pinion bearing. Instead of making us use shim Toyota has adjustment nuts on the differential side bearings. I wish all manufacturers did it this way.
We are typically $1000 -1200 for the differential bearing replacement. There are additional parts and labor if the axle bearings and seals are replaced at the same time.
If the studs came out of the axle housing you can just thread them back in but add a lily bit of thread locker on each one to seal the threads and keep them in place. You may want to try and remove several of the nuts from the studs and install the studs back into the housing to act as a guide for when the differential is reinstalled. Other wise you can get the stud from the dealership or most hardware and auto part suppliers.
There is a pinion seal that is installed after the gear setup has been tested. This is normally the last step because if the pinion has to be reshimmed the seal will have to be removed.
The starting preload for the pinion alone is 5-7 in.lb for used bearings and 9-14 in.lb for new bearings and total preload for pinion and ringgear is measure pinion preload plus additional 3.5-5 in.lb So 8.5-12 in.lb for used and 12.5-19 in.lbs for new bearings.
It's from ZEP. I use it for brake parts cleaner. We have a machine that charges it with fluid and then air. It's kind of top heavy and they break easy when they fall off a tool cart. Sure-Shot has all metal ones that are tougher and less top heavy.
Clear and Precise best how to video ever (camera work, narration, lighting,
Audio,) I’m now ready to go change out my diff centre!!!! Full of confidence👍
Awesome task for any weekend. Have fun!!
Im glad i found your video, my buddies been wrenching on heavy equipment, semis, dump trucks, trucks, cars, boats for 40 years or more. I told him i needed my differential bearings replaced and asked if he had the right tools to do it. He asked what tools? I said well to set the pre tension, the paste to check gear spacing the stuff i saw guys using on utube videos. He just laughed at me, said if i wasn't changing gears he didn't need the high dollar crap. He said you do it by feel if you know what your doing lol. Watched your video and i feel better about having him do it now.
Put the gear in the freezer or use dry ice. Heat up the bearing. Works great.
great video and awesome instruction. i can tell you put alot of work into this video, and i certainly appreciate it. i feel much more comfortable tackling this job
I love your welding trick! For heating up the housing wait until your wife is out shopping and use the oven in the kitchen... 😇
Just put the races in the freezer overnight and they'll sit really gentle
Definitely a job I'll pay a shop to do - I'd have to buy more tools to do this than it would cost me to pay someone to do the job!
Its a shame, because we know we'd love to DIY and tell everyone 😊
Nice and clear explanation throughout video! I will say carrier bearing preload seems quite loose imo. Once backlash is set go back and forth, or focus on ring gear side and tighten those bearing adjusters as tight as you can get them. There is a tremendous amount of torque going through the ring and pinion and deflection will happen without enough carrier bearing pre-load. It will not damage the carrier bearings by having too much preload. Well over 100 ft/lbs on the adjusters is common.
Thanks for the info! If I would have followed all the factory directions we would have checked the carrier preload. Toyota gives specs for pinion preload by itself and additional pinion preload after the carrier has been installed and adjusted. The adjusters have to be adjusted to meet the preload requirements.
Hot tank/cold tank? I use my oven for the housing and the fridge freezer for the bearings.]
I use the hot tank on the housing and it does help. I have also seen dry ice used to cool the bearing races before install to shrink them. And a hot plate on the bearings to install on the pinion.
thank you for sharing. i will now speak to my mechanic like a pro
Excellent video. I have watched several videos in preparation for rebuilding the front diff of my ‘77 FJ40. This cleared up several questions I had. Much appreciated.
Great to hear! Most of these Toyota differentials are the basically the same from the late 70’s to today.
I rebuilt my toyota 7.5 and installed a locker back when i was in community college 2015 automotive service technology. I forgot how i did it. This video refreshed my memory. I want to change my ring and pinion gears, can i reuse the bearings that i replaced years ago? Do i need new crush sleeve and shims?
You can get copies of the bearing tool for a lot cheaper on AMZN today.. I see this is 5 years old.. just went thru my own rebuild
If I ever need to purchase a replacement I will likely buy the knockoff.
Great vid. Super peaceful. I enjoyed every second this morning. Thank you for the motivation.
The welding trick did the trick! I had to do it for both races because hitting the larger one from the back didn't budge and I was afraid to damage the housing. I don't see how else they come out.
This stuff is involved as heck
The Pio on bearing removal tool requires the bearing outer race to be in place and you lift it off by pressing on the rollers, this way you don’t need to get under the inner race of the bearing,, this did my head I at first but that what make this tool so clever.
Very professional process and clear explanation! My friend has a 2004 Tacoma with 260k miles. The rear diff has some major play at the front pinion bearing.... But no leaks or bad sounds. Should I just try tightening the flange nut to reduce the slop?
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics excessive rotational play or up and down play? If the pinion is sloppy up and down you can try tightening up the nut but normally the bearings are worn and will start to make noise after tightening(unless someone didn’t tighten up enough in the past) If the play is rotational play then the pinion nut probably won’t help and you would have to remover the diff to adjust the carrier so the backlash is reduced.
What an interesting process, gotta love your welding trick.
Great tutorial; you have the knack for teaching.
Thanks Jorge
Thank you very much for making this video. It has helped me a lot in rebuilding my 1984 SR5 4WD front axle.
Very nice tool by Yukon for removing the pinion bearing what model number is that tool so I can grab one should also work on 2000 3rd gens as well there are no links in the description sir
Great demo. Do you have a link for the removal process?
@@yota4142 th-cam.com/video/Yb7mcEayB0I/w-d-xo.html
You could put bearing cups into a freezer, if your quick to install them. Put a heat gun on diff. housing as well.
Great video my friend, I could work with you all day long!!
Thanks for that! You wouldn’t have liked today. Exhaust manifold and tune up on a Ford Econoline Van.
Awesome work. How much will this cost?
Since you got fire involved, you might as well had just cut the race out. I worked for a logger who could do stuff like that. Definitely exemplary of making it work with what you have!
I’m more likely to cut to deep with a torch and trash the housing. I mostly just beat them out with a drift and hammer.
Any gaskets etc needed??? in removing and replacing a rear end differential assembly on the fourth generation Toyota 4runner?
Awesome video. The shortcuts show your knowledge professionalism thanks!
Great video. Just curious, the bearings didnt look very pitted on the video, were they causing a humming or grinding sound?
Do you add friction modifier to the rear-ended gear oil ? I just came across to ask you Toyota shops say so I helps with the chader in turns parts stores gear oil doesn't have it in the oil 🙋
That normally is only required on models with limited slip differential. Toyota places a sticker near the fill plug that will say LSD.
Great video! I'm about to install a Detroit truetrac in my 4r, is there a way to find the correct carrier bearings without having to buy an entire diff bearing/shim kit?
Awesome.great video.. your explanations are crystal clear.
This vehicle looks like it lived it's life in the desert...like brand new underneath!
I just have to replace that front pinion oil seal.
Am I going to be able to get that front pinion off, w/out complete disassembly? (after removing the castle nut)
Thank you for posting.. This is a GREAT reference!
I'm guessing that is a non-locking open carrier that you are working on.. Do you know if the process is the same for a non-locking limited slip? Thanks for any info..
it4dps the process will be nearly identical but the specifications may vary slightly.
On the inner pinion bearing, would it be ok to warm it up first on this application? I install bearings on spindles at work on heavy mobile cranes and we warm the bearings to 350F and they slide right on. Wait a bit for them to slowly cool. Just wondering if these little bearings could take that. Cheers. Great video .
Great question!!! I had to do some digging to see if I could find some accurate information and learned quite a bit along the way. I found that people heat bearing to all different temps before install but I found a article from SKF that recommends a maximum of 257F or you can risk changing the metal's attributes. The article shows very large bearing but it should apply to the smaller pinion bearings as well. Here is a link www.lubsys.com/knowledge/knw_heatmnt.htm
Thanks for the question and for checking out the video👍🏻
This is a perfectly acceptable way to install bearings without a press. Throw your pinion in the freezer over night and toss the bearings in your oven at 350 degrees for 10 minutes or so. Take out frozen pinion, take bearing and slide it right in place. This can be done on the carrier as well.
The freezer part will not have as much of an effect as the heated bearings, but it works well. You can also use a heat gun to warm the bearing.
Also, you can wrap the bearings in water soaked rags, and put them in the microwave for 90 seconds.
Thanks for sharing . Greetings from Curacao.
Can we get the link for the tool you use please? Great video!
Bearing removal tool - amzn.to/3Ge3DgD
Cheaper version of the bushing push pull kit - amzn.to/3nBupsR
good video and hello from Australia
Do you have the link to the removal from the truck think you said at the beginning you would post that link to that video as well
th-cam.com/video/Yb7mcEayB0I/w-d-xo.html
Exelente..explicacion..muy buena herramientas..donde las puedo conseguir..gracias..
Can you provide links to the tools and the place you got the bearing
Here is the bearing tool. Https://amzn.to/3k3THJL
And here is one of the best quality differential supply companies other than their dealer. www.randysworldwide.com/product-category/ring-pinion-gear-sets?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq-6fzoS57AIVmz2tBh1qEAB1EAAYASAAEgKwUPD_BwE
Nice trick with the mig.
So my 2004 seal is leaking, can I just take the pinion out and replace it without replacing any parts? just gaskets? Any hints to do it quicker? Thanks in advance!!
If it is just the pinion seal you don’t need to remove the third member from the vehicle. You can service the seal buy removing the driveshaft and pinion flange. You should mark the nut so you can try and get it back to the same location when reinstalled.
Excellent detail and video quality. Thanks!
Have you guys considered investing in a bearing induction heater and/or liquid nitrogen to install those bearings and races? Much faster and no potential bearing damage as opposed to cold mounting. Liquid nitrogen alone will suffice and really cheap to use
I ordered a induction hot plate but have not tried it yet. The bearing induction heaters are very expensive from what I’ve seen in the past. Many of them don’t accommodate smaller bearing as well. I have not used liquid nitrogen but I will check into it. Thanks for the tips!!👍🏼🔧
So peaceful watching this.. oddly satisfying and a job very well done
At 3:00
The bearing kits here in 🇦🇺 come with a New Deflector ...
Simply punch the Deflector and bearing cone out with a punch .. No Welding required ..
May save you half an hour of welding and slag if you can source the $5 Deflector ?
@@kevwills858 I agree with you. It’s not worth $5 to waste time. The deflector didn’t come with my bearing kit unfortunately and welding only took about 5 minutes.
The welding trick also works wonders in other places. Yesterday one of my technicians was having difficulty with a Toyota sienna front wheel bearing because the race was rusted into the knuckle. I told him to quit messing with it and grab the welder. 5 minutes later I heard the race hit the floor. Not only does the weld shrink the race but the heat also helps to break free any rust binding the components together.
It takes me 5minutes to drag my welder out and set it up 😄 ..
I've welded a quite a few Dry Cylinder Liners in old Perkins engines (insitu), it's the only way to release the rusted Liner from the Block .. (another old trick👍)
Thank you sir. That was great info.
No problem!!👍🏻
hi, thanks for this great video! do you have a transfer case rebuild video for a 4th Gen 4Runner V8? Thanks.
Did you add silicone to the gasket? Also what was the torque spec on the diff bolts. TIA
you are a great teacher
Thank you David.
you should of made your best imitation of the growling noise in the video.
David Craft that would been awesome. I’ll try that next time. 😂
lol I'm just messing with you. but you know how it is between people that work on cars. and how someone will be serious af and make brawpapap sound and a grrrrttt grretttt sound and then someone will say "what sound did it make again" lmao. good video though. I'm doing a samurai axle and it is identical to the Toyota axles except its like 7/8 scale lol .
looking at your videos before I tackle replacing the 10 bolt Differential Gasket on my 08 FJ.. do you apply any sort of sealer onto the new gasket or just pop the old one out, clean the faces, new one in, and bolt it back up?
It should seal up just fine with the paper gasket but some will apply a thin coat of sealer anyways. The factory didn’t have any sealer applied on the paper gasket.
For people without a welder: No need to weld the race to get it out, instead cut a large washer in half to clear the deflector, set both halfs of the washer onto the race and press it out. Or just order a new deflector which is inexpensive. This is a good step by step video though
Thanks for the washer tip. I will take a look at the next one I pull apart and try it out. There are times when I don’t have access to air or a welder.
Can you please explain a bit more? I have a deflector in mine and cannot punch my races out... cheers!
Good work 👍
Great Video
This was a life saver 😅
Thanks very much for the video! Got a question about the companion flange. What would happen if I use a flange with the rubber dampener (2WD) to an all time 4WD 4runner? Reason I asked is I’m just buying a 3rd member with the 2wd flange and don’t want to change the flange for fear of messing up the preload. Thanks in advance!
It should be ok either way. The two wheel drive version must have had harmonic vibrations that were absorbed by the transfer case on the 4wd and awd versions.
ThePracticalMechanic thanks very much for the quick reply!
ThePracticalMechanic hi. One more question. What sealant do you use to join the 3rd member to the main axle? I bought a gasket from Toyota but do I have to apply a sealant as well? What sealant would that be? Thanks in advance!
Radius if your using the new Toyota gasket sealer shouldn’t be needed. That make future service easier. I use Ford gray rtv sealer for my personal vehicles.
ThePracticalMechanic thanks again!
Muy buen video no ablo inglés pero entiendo lo que está haciendo mi gracias amigo
Hay what’s the part number for your spanner wrench it looks pretty cool
Great video! Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Thank you for your video. How much the price for all bearing
I don’t remember how much the rebuild kit for this particular one cost ($300-400 is normal for quality bearings) but parts and labor for this job typically ends up between $900-1200.
Great! Video do you happen to have a video of how it sounded while driving im trying to determine if I have the same issue. While I'm driving and foot on the gas is fine but when i ease off the gas (decel) its when i hear the noise (huming/rumblings)which seems to come from my rear of the runner. 2003 v8 4wd.
Efren Bautista I tried to capture it but the audio didn’t come out. Rumbling could be the ujoints or the rear end. I currently have a 1996 that needs rear end bearings and it rumbles slightly if I completely lift my foot from gas pedal but it whines if I feather the gas on and of. If I do a video on that one I will try to capture some audio of the noise.
@@ThePracticalMechanic thank you I appreciate it.. I removed the diff oil and plug and found shavings but no big chunks..
While driving would only rumble when i get off the gas
Very profesional and safe way to work. My respect. Please If any one has the part number for the replaced parts it would help a lot. Thanks
Thanks for the video! having a difficult time determining if the groan sound I'm hearing on my 2005 is from the diff or wheel bearing, brought to a couple of mechanics and they haven't been able to pinpoint. Sound does seem to emanate from the rear but I know sound can travel an can be deceiving. The sound changes at different speeds, very noticable at 50km/h and 90km/h. Attempted swerve test and seems to kind of lessen a bit when going left but hard to replicate consistently. Any other tests or suggestions on determining what is causing the sound, find it very bothersome and would like to have fixed. Thanks!
If the differential bearing are bad they will often make a different tone when acceleration and decelerating. The wheel bearings normally will change when swerving side to side but not always.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Thanks for the reply!
What was the torque setting for the nuts holding the differential to the housing?
Great video! Do you think this process would be similar enough to help me do this job on my 99 4runner rear diff?
It will be almost identical. If you have one with a locking differential it requires a special bearing kit and a few different steps.
@@ThePracticalMechanic It's a RWD so I don't believe it does. Thanks for the quick reply!
Great video! Thanks!
Hey I replaced the rear differential and now the 4x4 takes a long time to lock ...do I need to reset the anything??
Since I disconnected the rear sensor ?
The rear diff shouldn’t affect the time it takes to engage because the rear is engaged all the time. Does it take a long time while driving down the road? While stationary? Was the gear ratio the same as the unit that was removed?
@@ThePracticalMechanic I know it takes a little long to engage but now it takes 5 times longer while driving .
The differential was from a 2004 SR5 4wd and mine is a 2005 SR5 4wd
Thanks a lot for your prompt response!!
@@ThePracticalMechanic when is on parking it engage fast
Caza Y Pesca once it engages does it feel like it binds up? Example if you have a area with pavement for 20 ft and then it switches to gravel. Put it 4wd and drive in a straight line and slowly pull onto the gravel if it feels like it’s binding up when on the pavement and then releases when you hit the gravel then the gear ratio may be incorrect. I hope that make since.
I found that I installed the wrong g ratio on my 2005 mine is .3.73 and 2004 is 3.91
Hi,why didn't you check the mesh pattern? great video
I normally don’t check them if I’m just replacing the bearings. If I can’t get a quality brand of bearing then I will check the pattern because I don’t trust the pinion depth will remain close the the original bearing. If I’m also replacing gears then I will start with the original pinion shim and then check my pattern and adjust accordingly.
@@ThePracticalMechanic thanks,I'm about to do my first gear set up,your video was helpful.
I know the video is 5 years old, but would you mind sharing the rebuild kit that you used and where you got it from? Thanks.
@@MiguelFleitasMikkang at 18:20 I talk about bearing options. I got this set from Randy’s Ring and Pinion. Toyota parts department would be good option as well.
Local parts stores seem to have a hard time getting the correct bearings.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I subscribed though. Excellent videos.
I like your channel I have subscribed
What about the "deflector"? I didn't notice you reinstalling a new one.
Does the 3rd member need sealant for the bolt flange from the 3rd member to the axle housing I have a massive leak and I can't figure out why
From the factory there is only a thin paper gasket. If both surfaces are clean and flat the paper will seal. If there are any imperfection then RTV sealant will be required. Ultra black or ultra grey is what I use and then let the sealant dry/cure before installing new fluid.
Amezing . really appreciate you work brother.
Thank you!!
I need to replace the pinion bearing on my 03 Tacoma . Is it the same process ? Thank you !
I have a leak on my 2000 4runner rear diff right at the housing of the axle tube to the 3rd member Housing right near the bolts on the bottom and sidee and I can't seem to get it sealed what could be the problem ?
If it’s leaking where the tube goes into the housing then it may be difficult to seal.
First thing I would check is the differential vent and make sure it isn’t plugged up. It is located on the driver side top of the differential housing. It has a little metal cap that is crimped onto a metal nipple. The cap should be able to move up and down as well as spin. Dirt gets into the cap and causes the blockage. As you drive the increased pressure will make everything leak much faster.
You may have to removed the 3rd member and clean the inside and outside area of the leak and then apply sealant to both sides. Let the sealant dry overnight before putting fluid back in
I can already feel the misery of trying to do this without the proper tools. How much does it usually cost for it to be professionally rebuilt by you guys?
$800-$1200 seems to be the range for bearing replacement. If the gears are damaged it will of course be more.
At that price range get a third member already rebuilt with gears you want and maybe a locker with it too.
Great video my freind
01:15 which spanner brand did you use there please? It looks like it is of good design. Great work!
Its a tool from AST tools. it has interchangeable pins for holding camshaft gears as well.
Thank you! I tried looking for it but I did not come across anything. Do you have a part # for it please? God bless.@@ThePracticalMechanic
@@jtg2737 ast 7200. Here is one price well on eBay if your ok with used. www.ebay.com/itm/166289077975?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8wXTI_s-TkO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=FaFC5sdKRTm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
do you remember the torque specs for the third member drive line bolts axle bolts ?
very good
Master....
How much this kind of job will cost? Thanks in advance!
omg no shims to mess around with, so cool
Makes it sooooo much easier. Unfortunately Toyota didn’t do this on the T100 and tundras. Have an awesome week and stay safe.
@@ThePracticalMechanic this is nice to know. However I am ever so slightly disappointed as I do enjoy a good shimming.
Nice! Subbed.
My Tacoma clunks when i put it into reverse when it's cold. Sounds like it's coming from the rear end. It doesn't clunk or hardly clunks at all if I let go of the brakes right when I put it into reverse. I took it to a shop and they suggested to take it to another shop that specializes in rear ends. I've also had a few tell me it could be U-Joints. I recorded a video under the truck and showed another mechanic and he said it looked like there was excessive backlash. Any idea what the issue is? I'd like to rebuild it myself if I knew what parts to replace or what to look for. Thanks!
Johnathan Hartzell it could be the rear end but it could be u joints as well. If you email the clip to chad@thepracticalmechanic.com I will take a look.
Responded back with some things to check.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Thanks a ton!!!!! I'll look into it
Johnathan Hartzell no problem.
How much can a shop charge for a job like this?
So I'm new to this but I didn't see you use any shims now I'm lost
There is only one shim on this version and it is under the inner pinion bearing. Instead of making us use shim Toyota has adjustment nuts on the differential side bearings. I wish all manufacturers did it this way.
wow ....big job !
nice info !!!
My 2005 Toyota 4runner was making a loud noise I found out it was 2 of the gears that broke in it
Would this be a similar process for a 1994 Toyota Pickup 2.4L 4 x 4?
Very similar. Some of the specs will be different but the process is the same.
great video, thanks
No problem.👍
How much did this job cost I just payed 1200 dollars 2003 4 runner
We are typically $1000 -1200 for the differential bearing replacement. There are additional parts and labor if the axle bearings and seals are replaced at the same time.
ThePracticalMechanic thanks for reply back
I had all my studs and bolts come out of the axles. Where can I get more?
If the studs came out of the axle housing you can just thread them back in but add a lily bit of thread locker on each one to seal the threads and keep them in place. You may want to try and remove several of the nuts from the studs and install the studs back into the housing to act as a guide for when the differential is reinstalled. Other wise you can get the stud from the dealership or most hardware and auto part suppliers.
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What are using to clean it with in the zep durashot?
We use bulk brake parts cleaner in the zep durashot bottles.
ThePracticalMechanic awesome video btw and I’m buying the Yukon bearing remover because of this video👌🏻
Any idea how much this would cost?
Do you have to put a seal between the pinion and the actual differential housing?
There is a pinion seal that is installed after the gear setup has been tested. This is normally the last step because if the pinion has to be reshimmed the seal will have to be removed.
how many inch lbs to spin the pinion bearing flange according to the factory manual. Appreciated
The starting preload for the pinion alone is 5-7 in.lb for used bearings and 9-14 in.lb for new bearings and total preload for pinion and ringgear is measure pinion preload plus additional 3.5-5 in.lb
So 8.5-12 in.lb for used and 12.5-19 in.lbs for new bearings.
Any info on that sprayer you're using? Thanks!
It's from ZEP. I use it for brake parts cleaner. We have a machine that charges it with fluid and then air. It's kind of top heavy and they break easy when they fall off a tool cart. Sure-Shot has all metal ones that are tougher and less top heavy.
@@ThePracticalMechanic nice, I have used a sure shot in the past. Thanks!