How to Repair Blisters on a Fiberglass Boat / Sailboat
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- This week I tackle blister repair on my sailboat's rudder. I followed a step-by-step guide from BoatUS.com for blister repair. Hope you find this useful if you're doing the same DIY project. Let's continue getting this boat reading for sailing!
List of supplies:
A rotary sander; a face mask or respirator; a Dremel tool; protective eyewear; a cleaning brush; optional rubbing alcohol; rubber gloves; paint brushes; disposable spoons, knifes, and cups; epoxy (West Systems 105); hardener (West Systems 206 or 205); colloidal silica (West Systems 406); and fiberglass fabric.
Boat: 1985 Beneteau First 38
Cameras:
Panasonic G85
GoPro Hero 5
Audio: RØDE VideoMicro (on camera) and Zoom H1 (voiceover)
Drone: DJI Mavic Pro
Edited on Final Cut Pro X
Music:
0:11 - Talk Talk by Nym
0:42 - TwentyOne by GBeats Productions
2:19 - Angelina by Nameless (14ème arrondissement)
2:39 - a-group-verve
5:26 - You by Petit Biscuit
5:50 - Angelina by Nameless (14ème arrondissement)
9:16 - Amazing Plan by Kevin MacLeod
12:23 You by Petit Biscuit
Thanks for watching!
Instagram: @MrJoshPost
Josh you have the best way to explain these things to an average Joe like me who is trying to fix the holes without any knowledge about boat maintenance. thanks man
Used this same process to repair blisters in my fiberglass pool. Thanks for sharing helped ALOT!
Great video and thanks for sharing. Just a little pointer, instead of a knife to apply the paste, best to use a plastic scraper. I use old credit cards and cut them into various sizes. I use a thinner section to first apply the past then force the past deep in to the affected area. I force the past all 4 ways , back, forth, up and down to ensure the hole/clevis is completely filled and air bubbles removed. I then apply a bit more past and use a full size card to achieve and almost perfect repair with almost no sanding required. Experience and sharing information is the key.
Josh, your (Learn How to Sail) and (I Bought a Beneteau/Meaning of Life) video gave me the courage to purchase my first sailboat. I can't thank you enough for showing exactly what to do and for being a mentor.
kless001 - Thanks for the nice comment. I listened to your recent guitar song. Sounds cool. Kind of a Johnny Cash style. Good stuff. Let me know if you need any sailing advice. It can certainly be frustrating at times because boats seem to always break and need something else fixed. But it's a process and that's the fun part. Cheers!
Wow thank you! I need to actually get real recording equipment and not use my phone. I just finished bottom painting and installing all new running rigging in my Compac 16--she goes into Lake Michigan this Wednesday! First time those sails go up and the wind bites on, that feeling I know I'll get, well you helped make it happen.
Thanks for this. We are in the process of addressing the blisters on our Trintella. We have lots more than you! This was helpful.
Always relaxing to watch other people work. Great stuff to learn. Thx
and it looks so easy XD
I would suggest washing down the area during prep with acetone or M.E.K. and not water. Acetone with evaporate the quickest.
Thanks for sharing your learning curve. Makes me feel a little less small.
Enjoyed the surprise and showing even a newbie can perform the task. The journey as important as destination. Learning growing. Well done
I did a whole live seminar showing how to do this. Even so, this was faster, more helpful and much more useful information. Sub'd, thanks.
Because I've spent 45 yr's in the Auto / Marine Car boat restoration field I can tell you first hand how important it is to get after this but for added security I use a hand held Wagner electric heat gun to actually pull any remaining moisture out of the Fiberglass sub-straight ..
Yeah I don't have months to wait and my marina land fees are 1st month very affordable, 2nd month pretty affordable 3rd month crazy expensive! 4th month you may as well touch the boat and claim insurance because that's how much it gets!
@@serenitycoastUK Drill a few holes in the bottom of the rudder. Bag it and attach a vacuum pump to eliminate as much moisture as possible.
Do you suggest cordless tools, I would like to learn restore/detailing on both my cars and watercraft?
Love me some Fawcett's! Great vid, thank you. I'm sailing out of Galesville on the West River.
Tremendous Josh- as usual.THANK YOU.
Hi Josh, and thanks. I once set out to build a kayak, which required the use of the "West System". I read all their information carefully, and clearly recall that the new fibreglass should not be sanded for 14 days, as the uncured fibreglass dust can cause chronic lung problems . Here is the info from West Sytems Owners Manual:
" Breathing dust from epoxy that is not fully cured increases your risk of sensitization. Although epoxy cures quickly to a sandable solid, it may take over two weeks
at room temperature, or post-curing, to cure completely" . fyi
Hey Josh,
well done. I luv your life philosophy and your spirit
Keep up the great videos. You are the man !!
Thanks Josh, very instructive. My dream is also to own a boat.. and what a nice bought u just purchased! You made a pretty good deal. Au revoir from France!
Thank you for sharing this part of your life with us, your videos are filled with information given in an understandalbe manner! Also, THANK YOU for your service to our nation, we would not be able to live like we do without people like you! I hope to one day get out on saltwater with a sailboat. I suspect it will be a bit different from my ski boat in kansas but after the double fusion in my lower back I can't waterski anymore.....
Thanks for the comment, Jeff. I am from Missouri originally, so I am familiar with having no major bodies of water for sailing. Nonetheless, I always love getting on the water no matter if it's a lake, pond, bay, or ocean. Best of luck with your back recovery.
Just discovered your channel. What a great instructional video in the use of fiberglass repair. You just got a new Sub. Many like myself feel intimidated because of a lack of "basic" knowledge in the use of fiberglass when it's not really that difficult. You make it easy to understand and take the mystery out of it. Vlogging entertainment is great....but instructional videos are of great interest and value to many. Keep up the good work. That's how we get through life....sharing knowledge with others. Thanks for sharing.
Great comment! Thanks. Trust me. I was super intimidated by fiberglass work and other "mysteries" of boat repair. Once you dive into it, you realize it's not too difficult. Thanks for subscribing.
Excellent explanation.
A little chemistry! Great job, great volg Josh.
Great videos, Josh. Very practical and easy to understand.
I bought a 41 First S, 1990 here in Fremantle WA so I am right in your vibe 😁
Booyah! I can't wait to get her out on the water. I have another 1 to 2 months of work on the land, then I have a big trip planned for her in November.
Excellent tutorial video, lmao when you said "wait it's Smoking"
I think In going to start calling you SMOKING JOSH! Great vid and very well done. I especially liked how you explained the layers Some newbies may not understand that aspect of a boats hull. I remember when I first heard the term gel-coat. I said...WHAT?! PEACE OUT! Ü
Thanks for the comment! Yeah, a little crazy when it started smoking. haha
Todd Murphy's law says, if it ain't smokin, it ain't workin...👍👍⛵
always enjoy your vids
Pretty good video! Even down here in germany with my bad english I did understand every step very well! Good job. Looking forward watering the ship.
Nice work and Video josh you did a excellent job on the narration and the video content a few minor things i do a little different instead of a Dual Action sander i use a grinder with a Sanding disc attachment on it because that grinds way faster i grew up in South Florida and i had a business that i worked on Boats and Yachts as a teenager i used to take on many Bottom jobs and that Grinder trick helped me to prep the hull free of Barnacles and Bottom paint bye i’m 56 years old now and in the 1970 and 80s they didnt have or use a Barrier coat over the Gelcoat i got paid by the job not hourly so the faster i got things done the more i made and down there we had a steady flow of vessels was that Fawcetts the one in Annapolis ?? i kept a Boat in Deale MD for over 20 years and used to run up to the Fawcetts there for some items the folks that worked there were very knowledgeable and they had a large plotter that could print full size paper charts for any where in the world you desired sure i use modern technology but ive navigated all over the World using paper Charts plus they are a little Nostalgic to me on places ive visited before with hand written notes and even contacts and names of locals that helped me out in those parts its always nice to reunite and maybe even share a few cocktails with people yu share common interests with ive kind of found putting those notes into a computer or electronics just doesn’t have the same feel to it ? i guess i am from a generation that would take the time out to hand write a card or letter and mail it to that person and thats not something your age does or cares about as you look to be about the age of my own children at this time
excellent job and clearly understandable, I appreciate it
Excellent! Clear explanations and to the point. Loving your videos
the reasons blister appear in the first place is because of improper application of the gel coat to the fiberglass. This could happen for several reasons. A: Cold weather when the hull was first built. B: Very damp weather when the hull was built. C: Glass coat was not "tacky" when gel coat was applied. With boat hulls made in permanent molds the mold is first waxed, then the gel coat is applied. By the way gel coat is nothing more then fiberglass resin with color pigmentation added to it. While the gel coat is still tacky the fiberglass is shot into the gel coat to form the basic hull. If this is done in damp weather or cold weather the fiberglass may not fully adhere to the gel coat -- blisters will appear at a later date. when repairing blisters it is important to not just sand the gel coat but to sand until you reach the fiberglass. If this isn't done you are guaranteed to have problems in the same area in a short time.
Thanks for this good info! This is why I love TH-cam, many people with interests in common can share knowledge and experience. Cheers!
After watching too much BoatWorks and SailLife, I THINK you might have wanted to bevel those pits out a bit more to cover a wider area, with a few layers of glass, increasing in size with each.
I certainly don't have any personal experience though, and I'm not sure I've seen spots this small tackled before, so I may be completely off base and you've done a solid, professional quality job here for all I know. No offense intended!
Either way, I really enjoyed your "How to sail" video. You really nailed making it approachable for beginners like myself. Thanks! Inspiring stuff...
Blistering can also be caused after construction of the hull if there has been damage that has caused micro cracks or separation of the different layers. In other words it is not always the builders fault. :)
While improper application of Gelcoat is probably a huge factor, and as another viewer mentioned so is minor damage causing hairline cracking, the big picture to remember is that polyester based resins are not 'waterproof' at a microscopic level. Even the best isophthlaic gelcoat applied perfectly would eventually blister, but it would take decades. Epoxy is truly waterproof at a microscopic level, which is not only why epoxy barrier coast are used and why we use epoxy to repair blisters, but also why epoxy hulls are so much more expensive! Vinyl-ester resins are way better than polyester, but still not better than epoxy. Since Vinyl-ester resins are compatible with polyester in construction they are used as the outermost or 'first' laminate of the hull in the mold in higher quality yachts.
Thanks, Sam! You are probably right. However, I've heard different opinions from different people. One guy who runs a boat repair place here in Annapolis told me not to go too deep or too big with my Dremel. But I have seen other advice also. I guess I will just see how well these hold up. They were fairly small. I just hope they don't come back anytime soon. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks man and happy sailing.
From one Joshua to another, thanks for the comment. Cheers!
If you mix whatever type of fast-curing resin, move it to a wider, shallow container and spread the material to a thin layer, the heat within a large thick batch grows exponentially hence the smoking or 'flash-cure'.
great video Josh! I had never seen using the cloth to repair the blister, but those were some large spots so better to err on the side of extra strength and a better repair than just patching it lightly. Time will tell.
Many blisters will disappear shortly after haul out. Right after they pressure wash the hull, go around and pop and lift up the blisters with a small sharpened screw driver. This is so you can find them and to get them draining ASAP. The first chore after the boat is on the hard is to prep all the blisters since they take a while to dry. I like to give them at least a few days to dry if it’s not humid. I’ve used every thing from vacuum cleaners to heat guns to expedite the drying. Don’t use natured alcohol to dry/clean. Xylene or MEK is better but just two wet dabs, don’t soak it and do it about 15-20 minutes before you patch. I like to do wet brush of epoxy into the fiberglass to absorb right before the epoxy patch.
Wow, you are very experienced with this! Thank you. I have a fresh water boat that is only 6 years old and was stored in a slip at the marina only during summer months. It has "chicken pox" so hundreds of tiny blisters, not big separated blisters like shown in this video. The gel coat shop said he can't fix it, they will just come back? And that I shouldn't worry about it now that the boat is no longer stored in the water. He says not to leave it in the water more than a few days. Do you have any insight into this? Thank you so much!
@@garrettpeterson9816that’s the problem because you got a cheaply made boat… :(
This is totally the manufacturer fault…try to get them sort the problem…
These are the conditions for blistering:
-water penetrates the gelcoat and antifauling;
this is very hard to completely stop, it is said that it can only be slowed down because apparently even the epoxy is not completely waterproof (non porous) but alot more water resistant than polyester resin. To minimise this you can paint the whole hull with multiple coats of epoxy resin with 422 filler which further improves epoxy’s water resistance.
-when water penetrates the paint it tries to find uncured polyester resin and voids between the laminate. When it finds them (this is the manufacturer blame) water starts to mix with uncured portions of the resin (and other solubles) and the osmosis begins in turn drawing more water and creating bigger pressure between layers of laminate in turn accelerating the blistering
Thank you for teaching.
New to your channel. Hope to learn heaps of info. Thanks for your time & info.
Excellent teaching video.
Great video
Outstanding!👍👍👍👍👍
Kowabunga, dude!
Lieutenant, if you grew up in Southern California and surfed and had to do your own board repairs back in the day, you'd know all this! Wish I had a nickel for you every day "hot batch" that "cooked off" while I was patching the rails or skeg or deck shatters on my board because some of hodad or kook ran me over!!
Awesome. It was your video I got the sailing basics.
Now I'm struggling to find and learn the integrity of 1973 fiberglass hull tech.
So.eone.told me they are floating tanks.
Drill a few holes in the bottom of the rudder. Bag it and attach a vacuum pump. ... I would also lightly sand the epoxy between coats to insure proper bonding
your videos are extremely informational thank you
decent instructional video. if I were to make a suggestion: include a safety warning about the colloidal silica ("wear a good fitting mask, don't open the container in high winds, etc..") and I don't know if it would be worth priming/barrier coating the patches before antifoul final coat or not, as they seem like small repairs. but really, good content, thanks!
Well done , you're doing a good job . good to see .👍⛵👍
Thanks, Louis!
Thank you
Good video, thanks!
This is a job I gotta do......probably September so good tips, I was looking to pay someone to do it but looks pretty straight forward and you explained it well (and entertaining enough). I brought a yacht in March to become a liveaboard but a big work project came up so I've been the boat maybe 8 times! :-/ It's all good though there's been some shitty weather here in the UK so no
You MUST! wear a mask and respirator when working with fiberglass dust from sanding, epoxy use, and especially when using colloidal silica, your safety is #1!
Lol "just wanna dab it" that quick cartoon got you a subscriber 🤣🤣🤣❤✌
Thanks Josh for this useful Information
Do I need to make a layer of, gellcoat or primer before the antifouling gets ?
I am learning . Thank you so much .
on the smoking epoxy, one once mixed thin the epoxy mixture around the cup so its not in to "thick "of a mass clump, or two you can switch to tropical slow west hardener 209
Excellent advice. Thank you. It was quite hot that day (upper 80s). Plus, I was messing around with my camera in between stirring and applying so I'm sure I let it set for too long. Thanks for the comment.
Just use a shallow container instead of a cup. That way the heat will dissipate more easily and the reaction won't run out of control.
Great advice. I read that somewhere recently (after I had completed this project), but now I know for next time. Cheers!
Hallo Josh
That smoki thing Kohls EXOTHERM and that happen when you mix composites in a small cop for long time than his lifetime
I’m a bit surprised to see the resin go off like that, it might be the quantity or that you didn’t get the base epoxy mixed properly before adding the filler (even though it surely didn’t look like that). Epoxy sets a lot faster in a pot compared to spread out though. For reference, I laminated a half square meter part at 22C yesterday, using the fast hardener and almost a kilogram of resin, and it took its time setting up, maybe an hour.
Acetone is preferable for cleaning, as it flashes off almost instantly (in warm conditions it is almost impossible to trap any acetone as you’d have to be in humanely fast with applying the resin). The glass matting is probably a good idea, since it adds strength, where the filler doesn’t.
Great video though, you’re really good at making interesting videos!
Ouch, my teeth hurt while watching that. Great work!
Question for Josh (or anyone else who knows). I have multiple blisters that need to be repaired but I also have several areas where a cowboy marina (in Mexico) were overly aggressive with sanding and broke through gelcote (without telling me, they just painted over it (without even a barrier coat). Wouid i repair these in the same way? Separately, i have noticed that the boat has been sitting low in the water since the haulout. Can water absorption be so so severe that this can occur (or do we have something else going on)?
No barrier coat over the repair before bottom paint?
Excellent videos. Any chance of you producing more sailing vlogs?
Hi Ian. More sailing vlogs coming soon.
...or clean the surface prep area with dentured alcohol instead of water. (Been reading way too many Interlux guides ;))
Very good video on technique; thanks.
One point: I have seen warnings about using colloidal silica filler due to the danger of inhalation. One shipwright I reviewed on video working with the product was particularly cautious, and would not even open the container without gloves and a respirator (not a fibre mask).
Was this a concern?
I will take more precautions in the future. I think you are probably right. Thanks for the comment!
Correct, need a respirator when using silica, it will beco.e airborne and you will be breathing fiberglass into your lungs...be careful
Nah myth
James Chadwick yea and cigarettes and cancer a myth to right?
devildogae well u can Google my name, I build boats and use it every day. So yeah... It's not fiberglass it's fucking caboseal and it's a food thickner, about the only thing that isint deadly chemicals. look on the back of ur ketchup bottle and get woke.
Nice work, cap'm.
Great vid josh, thx
Very helpful.
Hi Josh
What boatyard you was able to do that job?
Thank you for the video .
Thanks. I was in Annapolis, Maryland at Carr Creek Marina. Some marinas, especially on the the east coast, will allow you to do your own work. Cheers.
I find if I put the cup of thickened epoxy into another cup of ice, it will not kick as fast and you can complete the work in the hot sun.
Thank you for this great tip! I will try it next time. I am fairly new to working with epoxy and fiberglass. It's pretty amazing how strong and versatile it is.
Or you could just add less hardener for a slower kick.
Can you tell us what cloth you used for this repair?
Use a mask those fumes are hazardous. BTW thank you for putting all this effort to share your knowledge with us.
Hello, I am thinking to have a small sauna in the after kabin of my glass fiber sailboat? May this project go well if I investering in a proper isolation? Or it that just an insane idea?
Great vids. Did u know defender marine does not charge sales tax (outside of CT) but they charge you shipping. If you have a few items to order and can wait you will prob save a few bucks.
Chango de la Porcelaina Canada - Excellent. Thanks for the tip! I need a few items this week. I will search their site.
Josh Post ask for their free 2018 defender catalog...i have a beneteau 37 cruising out of Point Roberts Washington. Have a good one!
Did you ever think to using Adtech P77 polyester filler for blisters ?
dang good vid
looks like epoxy is also going over the darkish antifouling ?
Interesting and make it seem less daunting. What type of Mat did you use? I have seen people cut various size disks of mat for larger areas, would you recommend that too? So no new barrier coat needed then...ie the epoxy layer is enough before bottom paint?
I was thinking the same thing about the barrier coat, but I think the epoxy essentially acts as the new barrier coat. I just followed instructions I found at BoatUS.com. Not sure what type of fiberglass mat I used. It seems like a standard (mid-range) size. I just bought the stuff they had on the roll at the marine store. It's tricky to cut into a perfect circle though, so I just improvised. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks again. Like the clear instructions you provide. What worries me most is having enough time for dry-out. Do you perhaps have advice / experience with installing/replacing a depth sounder thru hull fitting, specifically what the best sealant to use is. I have seen some people use silicone, but surely that is a bit risky? At the same time using 5200 might prevent future removal?
Great video. Why do you think you have the blisters in the rudder and not the rest of the hull?
Thanks! I believe the previous owners did some good maintenance on the bottom of the boat throughout her life. However, the rudder had more of a moisture reading. Not sure exactly why.
Elliott Bennett rudder was not casted as part of the hull. Check out my post above. I've built boats, repaired boats and lived in an area where there were several boat builders within 1 mile if each other. Two different methods to build fiberglass boats. The cold method is to build a frame, lay several layers of thin plywood or other wood onto frame then fiberglass -- then spray with gel coat. The mold method they wax the inside of the mold, spray with gel coat, while tacky spray the fiberglass for basic hull. When cured water is pumped into mold and the basic hull pops out. The hull is then moved to where the stingers are put into the hull and the build continues. Most rudder's for sailboats are made with the latter method. If in either one of those methods the weather is too damp, too cold or the gel coat not sticky blisters will appear later.
It could be because of problems introduced during construction but most likely because the rudder is under a lot of stress which can cause micro cracks or separation of the different layers allowing the introduction of moisture.
that addresses the actually blisters but not the water ingress that is causing them.. needs to have all paint and coatings stripped allowed to dry and a full barrier coating applied.
👍👍
Hey People Stretch Shipping tape over the area way less volume and sanding AND Contamination of the area!
I do my drill weekends where you are
Replace the plastic spoon with a popsicle stick to stir.
Thanks for the tip!
Is it okay to use a heat gun or powerful hair dryer to speed up the drying process?
Good question. I've never tried either option. A heat gun may be too hot and might melt other paint and material near the area. I use a hair dryer for lots of boat projects including to loosen hoses from barbed fittings, taking off old vinyl boat lettering, and more. Here is an article I just found. Read under the heading Controlling Epoxy’s Cure Time www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/epoxy-chemistry/
I put rudders and other small pieces in a closet with a dehumidifier which dries them out fairly quickly. Obviously this wouldn't work for an entire sailboat. I would avoid using a heat gun as it may introduce more problems as Josh suggests.
Sapa Space n
"Blisters" are what they call 'Fisheyes' in automotive caused by dirt or contamination stuck under the paint...thanks for the great video👍
Blisters are air pockets that formed when the fiberglass was laid, if you don't find all of them they can show up later like in this video. (They were there all along) This is also in automotive when dealing with fiberglass bodies (corvettes, kitcars). A much bigger and different issue than imperfections in the paint.
Would using a heat gun help evaporate the water out ?
Yes so would sunshine or electric heater or towel
UPDATE PLEASE its been a year, How are your repairs holding up?
FYI... West Marine is now price matching any retailer, so the materials would have cost you the same.
Good to know. Thanks for this info.
True and not true. They only match for local Business. And only large chains. They would not match my local marina.
Brian Pitts your local marina is not a retail establishment.
Christopher Coy If they will not match a price from any local Marina Or other local marine supply companies that there are literally 20 to 30 in a 10 mile radius then they don't match prices.
So they over charge us until we call them on it ...then refuse to match... better just not to deal with them at all...
I would've put another small fiberglass over the peanut butter to lock it in. Just me 🤙
No boat has ever sank from blisters.
Most likely the repair is more destructive than just leaving the blisters alone. Paint the bottom and move on.
Blisters are like bumps on a golf ball that make the boat go faster.
Is it just me or did you micromanage this job a little too much.... I think I agree totally with all the material that you used...... Get it done!!
If you had two dozen spots on the rudder how many spots could you have on the hull?? ......where the problem goes to the interior of the boat. 😱. I learn a lot here...
Poly resin or vinylester works as well, cost less and is easier to sand ...
Epoxy bonds better and stronger.
@@jazldazl9193 and, more waterproof!
You're correct about how that hardens, it's an absolute pain to work with. Next time use Interlux Watertite. Easier and better in every respect.
The rudder is not built like the hull. That is why the hull has few/no blisters. The rudder is gel coated foam with a metal frame the connects to the rudder post and then to the steering (wheel or tiller). This video will be very instructive as he completely rebuilds a rudder with similar blistering. Take a look:
th-cam.com/video/MRXNnFx7DBQ/w-d-xo.html
I like Josh's videos but he is an amateur trying his best and making mistakes along the way. Don't act on Josh's example until you have read all of the posted comments. His previous hull transducer replacement video is a good example of what I mean. His methodology got the job done but was akin to "counting the cows by counting their feet and dividing by four" ie there is a better straightline method as pointed out by many posters. This isn't a criticism of Josh just a reminder that group knowledge often highlights a better way. And on his decision to keep the transducer astride the keel instead of forward of the keel as his manufacturer recommends. Modern depth sounders may not work well astride the keel. The new one may need a 360 degree, obstruction free signal cone.
WD WD - Thank you for the comment. I am aware of that other rudder rebuild video by Andy at Boatworks. I saw it and researched how much that method would cost -- $6000 to $8000. I felt my rudder was in good shape aside from the relatively small amount of blisters. Also, I researched the depth finder keel issue and considered your rationale. My decision to place it as such was supported by the fact that it is forward on the keel enough that the keel is only present for about the first 12 inches down from the hull, then the slant aft causes no more keel underneath. I hope this means the depth cone will not hit interference. We shall she. I'm not an expert as you correctly pointed out. However, I did a lot of research. My blister repair was taken verbatim from a guide on boatus.com website by renowned sailor Don Casey. Since the days of Columbus and Magellan sailors have been doing boat repair projects with far inferior materials than we have today and somehow most sailors, if they have good common sense, end up fine, afloat, and ready to sail another day. But I honestly appreciate your feedback and I COMPLETELY agree that the group knowledge and insight from this site and other forums is invaluable. Cheers!
Casey is the Best. I'm a bumbling sailor/maintainer well practiced at both after 40 years on the Bay. Maintaining and fixing is a much easier task with the help of TH-cam and content producers like you. Thank you. See you at Fawcetts.
I would love to brainstorm with someone like you. I'm doing a lot of my research from scratch, and it can be frustrating not knowing where to begin sometimes.
Sounds like a plan. I generally have more questions than answers but I know a bunch of people.
If you did not remove a fibreglass layer why add another one?....
It is not wanted to smoke or heat up. This is making a to fast harding and therefore weaker.
Use plastic putty or mud knife on last part ...way quicker than plastic spoon or fork or whatever he used
I dont even own a boat, why am i watching this.
Great Vidio,But I would Think If Anyone buy's the Repair Stuff,Make sure to Read all the direction's,and also Ask Question's to Other People Who have Don't that Type Of Repair..That Stuff is Expensive,For small Container Of It..
Where did you learn this? Thanks!
Jose Vera - Hi. I learned from this website mostly www.boatus.com/magazine/2013/june/hull-rx-when-and-how-to-repair-gelcoat-blisters.asp And from talking to a bunch of boatyard workers. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you and thanks for sharing, your content is great
Epoxy will get hot enough to catch fire.
Great DIY video ...but you need a pretty girl in a bikini to be your assistant ..then you might get the views you deserve ...me.. I don't care so please keep the videos coming ...