A perfect video to act on, even for the absolute anti-do-it-yourself person like me. No nervous break down today, first time successfully changed a chain. Thank you very much!
Thank you .Your a professional .You've don this 1 million times.For for us non professional .this is still going to be tough ,since we don't do this often ,thanks
This video covers some of the basics, but not nearly enough. In fact, it could cause you to have some serious drivetrain issues/damage. It's a long read, but I think it will be worth your time. Here's Why: 1. Chains don't stretch, they wear out. That is, the link plates on the sides do not get longer. Two forms of wear occur: First: The link bushings and rollers wear against each other and develop movement which causes the distance between link rollers to increase. If you ever grab the link rollers on an old chain, you will see and feel some play-you will not get this with a new chain. If the wear gets to great it will start to damage teeth on your cogs and chainrings. Second: The holes in the outside links where the pins insert get slightly larger as they wear out. This will cause the chain to twist more and have more side to side play which can affect shifting performance and chain retention. 2. Use a chain tool (like the go/no go Park CC3.2) and check for wear. You can use a ruler, but I find it to be a pain. Check the chain with the tool in several locations. With 9-speed chains you can let the wear reach .75-according to Park Tool (I however replace mine at 0.5 as my HG-51 chains only costs me about 8 bucks). With 10 and 11-speed chains you should replace when wear reaches .5-again, according to Park Tool 3. Also, what they refer to as a link in the video is half a link-this is a common mistake. One link has three pins. It is the most basic unit of the chain (a half link with outer plates connected to a half link with inner plates). This will become crystal clear to you if you break a chain in the wrong spot and then won't be able to join the ends or use a master link. 4. When removing a chain that you are going to reinstall (for example-to clean it in a tray of solvent) do not push the pin all the way out. This will allow you to put the chain back together more easily (Shimano chains require a special pin to put back together, but I have reused a plain pin without any problems). Save yourself the headache and use a good master link (get a couple) then you can also pop off the chain easily to clean/replace or do a trailside repair. Carry a chain tool, know how to use it and make sure it works (practice on some bits of leftover/old chain). 5. The grease that comes on a new chain attracts dirt like a magnet, wipe the new chain in with a rag/paper towel damp with solvent (Klean Strip Odorless Mineral Spirits works great). You are just trying to clean the surface of the chain so it does not attract dirt. There is no need to remove grease from inside chain. Then apply bike chain specific lube (Boeshield T-9 works great, apply a small amount, cycle chain for a minute or so, then wipe off excess and let it dry at least a few hours before you ride. Some people say this is the factory applied grease is the best lube your chain can have. That's fine for inside the chain, but not on the outside.. No matter how good people say it is, it won't function as intended when its all gritty. 6. There is no mention of taking rear suspension compression into account. On some rear suspensions there is chain growth when it is compressed. That is, as the rear compresses the distance between the centers of the crank and rear wheel increases. This must be taken into account or your chain might be too short-leading to drivetrain damage. You can call the manufacturer and ask them and/or let air out of rear shock or remove coil over spring and install shock without spring, fully compress rear suspension, then fit the chain as described below (My Specialized FSR bike does not have this problem of chain growth, it is fully independent/active). 7. It is better to feed the chain through the rear mech with it on the biggest ring and biggest cog, then pull it until the rear mech pulley cage it about 45deg relative to horizontal (the floor). There are so many combinations of gearing, rear mech's and suspension types that applying one hard and fast rule can get you into trouble. You can go a little more than 45deg, just make sure you can move the end of the pulley cage forward at least 1" and develop some slack in the chain-this will ensure proper function (Park Tool online has a good section on this. Also, The MBR magazine youtube video is much better). Enough of this ridiculous rant! Let's ride! Note: I recently updated this post (Jun 30, 2015) to provide a bit more info and clarity
Benjamin Igwe If the chain is jumping over the cogs under power, then your cassette is worn out. You need to install a new cassette and a new chain. You can also tell that the cassette is worn out by looking at the teeth on the cogs. If they look like little shark fins, it is worn out. If you compare the teeth on a new cassette next to your old one, the difference should be fairly obvious. Also, the chainrings might also need replacement, but you can do the cassette and chain first and see how it goes. It's unlikely-but possible-that the chain is skipping on the chainring. Also, the derailluer should always be adjusted after installing the new drivetrain parts-but that is really quick and cheap for a shop to do.
Good Point. That's actually what I've been doing using a paper towel/rag damped with solvent. I described it incorrectly in my comment. I only remove soak chain after having been on several muddy rides.
I have to agree with a few people you have to run it thru the rear derailleur, as there are many diffetrent types and sizes. I followed your instructions and It screwed my brand new shimano chain as it came up short once it was run through the derailleur and snapped off under pressure when I was trying to tune it.
MotoAtheist take a look near the end of the video, he has shifted into the 3 chain ring and look at the position of the rear derailleur already, I don't even think he could get it into the largest chainring.
The way i was taught was to path the chain over the large chainrings and through the rear derailleur then using a carpenters angle tool set the cage to a 45deg angle, you really need someone to hold the angle tool. It's worked for me and i get no chain slap and gear changes seem sharp.
You were taught wrong. It may work, but it's simply not necessary to use the derailleur. Bypassing the derailleur and adding 2 links has been the standard and has worked for a long time.
Don't bother. Just cut the chain like a SRAM and use a SRAM power link to connect if it's a 9 speed. If you have a 10 speed chain I would use a wippermann 10 speed connector which is what I use on my 10 speed XT chains for my mountain bike with zero problems. You can take the chain on and off anytime and no worries of a weak pin or stiff link.
Thanks, but why only mention "8, 9, or 10 speed?" What about 7-speed? Also, the master link on my new chain does not want to click into position anywhere near as easily as the one shown here; the pins don't want to slide into the outer position. What's the recommended way to pry them outward without damaging the chain? As far as the measuring method is concerned: I had already shortened my chain to match the original. When I tried the method shown here (wrapped around the two largest sprockets), it looked like this method would've given me the exact same length. So... good!
Does the process differ for a full suspension bike, as opposed to a hard-tail ?? will Suspension movement affect the length of chain, depending on how the rear end moves?
As MotoAthiest said, it is best to measure the chain on a full suspension MTB when it is off the ground with the rear suspension at full travel. That way the weight of the bike isn't compressing the shock.
Were these videos fail is breaking down definitions of what things are. You have links and you have pins. Are we talking-2 pins Plus the master lock or actually two full links plus master
It went together easily in less than an hour. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
you determine the correct length based on putting the ends together without going through the derailleur....but that's a mistake because derailleurs vary in length. best off deliberately making the chain too long first, threading it through the derailleur, and then reducing the length ot the correct length afterwards surely?
Why does the chain need to be so short? My bike came stock with a long chain and the rear derailleur, when on the largest sprocket, is pointing down and not in a crazy angle towards the front of the bike. If the derailleur has space to move, what does it matter how long the chain is? In essence, I'm getting a new chain and if I shorten it too much, I will shoot myself.
The chain will perform better under more tension. It will shift crisper and will not drop as often-especially on rough terrain. They often don't take the time to get it just right at the factory. For more detailed installation info see my post above.
Yes. Just make sure the master link is rated for the number of speeds your chain is rated for. That is, for a 9-speed chain, use a 9 speed master link.
Turn the crank and it should snap into place, if not you can use a tool. This one can open and close links quite easily: www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/bbb-open-link-closing-link-tool-btl77/rp-prod47439 Some people use needle nose pliers too...that hasnt worked for me.
Count only the speeds on the REAR CASSETTE. Your bike is probably a 10-speed rear with 3 front chainrings. While some may call it a "30-speed," it's more accurately a "10-speed with a triple crank."
Forget it...he's being a try-hard. "I'll scour the video to find something really obscure to point out like I just 'happened to have noticed it' and that'll make people think I'm legit." LOL! He's talking about the cable at end of rear derailleur...not even giving a thought to the fact that this bike might be a demo bike used specifically for these videos.
You try-hards crack me up!!! Grasp the scenario : Guy picks up a bike that needs a lot of work, so he decides to post video of each "fix" to the internet to show average joes how to do their own maintenance. Internet full of armchair-mechanics pick apart every obscure thing they can find about the bike, never once giving thought to the fact that the guy hasn't gotten to that part yet. LMAO!!! "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak and to remove all doubt."
Is it ok if the chains are the same make and model (new and old) to just lay them side by side and make the new chain the same length as the old one? Thanks
not necessarily the proper length is based on largest cogs. so if someone changed the freewheel or cranks they might have the wrong size chain. Also the comments here also mention derailers are different lengths. Its getting very complicated i agree. best to compare to other bikes and not follow blindly these videos.
A perfect video to act on, even for the absolute anti-do-it-yourself person like me. No nervous break down today, first time successfully changed a chain. Thank you very much!
Thank you .Your a professional .You've don this 1 million times.For for us non professional .this is still going to be tough ,since we don't do this often ,thanks
This is a fantastic video so easy to follow unlike other channels thanks for this 👍👍👍👍
this is the best install video ive seen so far. good camera angles!
This video covers some of the basics, but not nearly enough. In fact, it could cause you to have some serious drivetrain issues/damage. It's a long read, but I think it will be worth your time. Here's Why:
1. Chains don't stretch, they wear out. That is, the link plates on the sides do not get longer. Two forms of wear occur:
First: The link bushings and rollers wear against each other and develop movement which causes the distance between link rollers to increase. If you ever grab the link rollers on an old chain, you will see and feel some play-you will not get this with a new chain. If the wear gets to great it will start to damage teeth on your cogs and chainrings.
Second: The holes in the outside links where the pins insert get slightly larger as they wear out. This will cause the chain to twist more and have more side to side play which can affect shifting performance and chain retention.
2. Use a chain tool (like the go/no go Park CC3.2) and check for wear. You can use a ruler, but I find it to be a pain. Check the chain with the tool in several locations.
With 9-speed chains you can let the wear reach .75-according to Park Tool (I however replace mine at 0.5 as my HG-51 chains only costs me about 8 bucks).
With 10 and 11-speed chains you should replace when wear reaches .5-again, according to Park Tool
3. Also, what they refer to as a link in the video is half a link-this is a common mistake. One link has three pins. It is the most basic unit of the chain (a half link with outer plates connected to a half link with inner plates). This will become crystal clear to you if you break a chain in the wrong spot and then won't be able to join the ends or use a master link.
4. When removing a chain that you are going to reinstall (for example-to clean it in a tray of solvent) do not push the pin all the way out. This will allow you to put the chain back together more easily (Shimano chains require a special pin to put back together, but I have reused a plain pin without any problems). Save yourself the headache and use a good master link (get a couple) then you can also pop off the chain easily to clean/replace or do a trailside repair. Carry a chain tool, know how to use it and make sure it works (practice on some bits of leftover/old chain).
5. The grease that comes on a new chain attracts dirt like a magnet, wipe the new chain in with a rag/paper towel damp with solvent (Klean Strip Odorless Mineral Spirits works great). You are just trying to clean the surface of the chain so it does not attract dirt. There is no need to remove grease from inside chain. Then apply bike chain specific lube (Boeshield T-9 works great, apply a small amount, cycle chain for a minute or so, then wipe off excess and let it dry at least a few hours before you ride. Some people say this is the factory applied grease is the best lube your chain can have. That's fine for inside the chain, but not on the outside.. No matter how good people say it is, it won't function as intended when its all gritty.
6. There is no mention of taking rear suspension compression into account. On some rear suspensions there is chain growth when it is compressed. That is, as the rear compresses the distance between the centers of the crank and rear wheel increases. This must be taken into account or your chain might be too short-leading to drivetrain damage. You can call the manufacturer and ask them and/or let air out of rear shock or remove coil over spring and install shock without spring, fully compress rear suspension, then fit the chain as described below (My Specialized FSR bike does not have this problem of chain growth, it is fully independent/active).
7. It is better to feed the chain through the rear mech with it on the biggest ring and biggest cog, then pull it until the rear mech pulley cage it about 45deg relative to horizontal (the floor). There are so many combinations of gearing, rear mech's and suspension types that applying one hard and fast rule can get you into trouble. You can go a little more than 45deg, just make sure you can move the end of the pulley cage forward at least 1" and develop some slack in the chain-this will ensure proper function (Park Tool online has a good section on this. Also, The MBR magazine youtube video is much better).
Enough of this ridiculous rant! Let's ride!
Note: I recently updated this post (Jun 30, 2015) to provide a bit more info and clarity
thx for this
Benjamin Igwe
If the chain is jumping over the cogs under power, then your cassette is
worn out. You need to install a new cassette and a new chain. You can also
tell that the cassette is worn out by looking at the teeth on the cogs. If
they look like little shark fins, it is worn out. If you compare the teeth
on a new cassette next to your old one, the difference should be fairly
obvious. Also, the chainrings might also need replacement, but you can do
the cassette and chain first and see how it goes. It's unlikely-but
possible-that the chain is skipping on the chainring. Also, the derailluer
should always be adjusted after installing the new drivetrain parts-but
that is really quick and cheap for a shop to do.
Good Point. That's actually what I've been doing using a paper towel/rag damped with solvent. I described it incorrectly in my comment. I only remove soak chain after having been on several muddy rides.
MarzNet256 why can't you just use the old chain length on the new chain? place them side by side and shorten accordingly?
You can if the original chain is installed correctly.
Nice video, thanks for posting...really simple information I was looking for!
Plain and simple. Short and sweet 👍
Great video. You guys do an awesome job at explaining
Thanks -great video. Helped me out with chain replacement.
Good video, it enabled me to change my broken chain and fit a new one.Thanks
I used an equation using the chain stay length on the park tool site and it worked out perfectly.
Excellent and most helpful -- thanks!
Thank you worked for me
2 links + joining link always works for me.
very helpful vid,thanks.
I have to agree with a few people you have to run it thru the rear derailleur, as there are many diffetrent types and sizes. I followed your instructions and It screwed my brand new shimano chain as it came up short once it was run through the derailleur and snapped off under pressure when I was trying to tune it.
You obviously did something wrong. The large cog to large chainring method has been standard and working for a long time by millions of people.
MotoAtheist take a look near the end of the video, he has shifted into the 3 chain ring and look at the position of the rear derailleur already, I don't even think he could get it into the largest chainring.
Jamie Haslett Rear derailleur has plenty of room to pivot forward more.
See photo....
ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb8053131/p4pb8053131.jpg
It could be that you have the wrong length derailleur cage for your gearing. That could easily make chain length really hard to figure out.
MotoAtheist could have been.
The way i was taught was to path the chain over the large chainrings and through the rear derailleur then using a carpenters angle tool set the cage to a 45deg angle, you really need someone to hold the angle tool. It's worked for me and i get no chain slap and gear changes seem sharp.
You were taught wrong. It may work, but it's simply not necessary to use the derailleur. Bypassing the derailleur and adding 2 links has been the standard and has worked for a long time.
Culms
Very nice video. Thanks.
This is good product.
Gr8 video! Very helpful!
Thank you, very good video!
I wish you demonstrated how to install a Shimano chain with the pin rivet!
Don't bother. Just cut the chain like a SRAM and use a SRAM power link to connect if it's a 9 speed. If you have a 10 speed chain I would use a wippermann 10 speed connector which is what I use on my 10 speed XT chains for my mountain bike with zero problems. You can take the chain on and off anytime and no worries of a weak pin or stiff link.
Nice video but next time you go to the doctor and he is not looking, steal a pair of those rubber gloves.....
+Allbbrz There called latex gloves and are easy obtained .
It was a joke in case you didn't get ....
Very detailed
nice video
Thanks, but why only mention "8, 9, or 10 speed?" What about 7-speed?
Also, the master link on my new chain does not want to click into position anywhere near as easily as the one shown here; the pins don't want to slide into the outer position. What's the recommended way to pry them outward without damaging the chain?
As far as the measuring method is concerned: I had already shortened my chain to match the original. When I tried the method shown here (wrapped around the two largest sprockets), it looked like this method would've given me the exact same length. So... good!
There are also 11 speed now too.
Does the process differ for a full suspension bike, as opposed to a hard-tail ?? will Suspension movement affect the length of chain, depending on how the rear end moves?
Yes, you should have the suspension in it's longest travel position and then use the same large cog to large cog plus two links.
As MotoAthiest said, it is best to measure the chain on a full suspension MTB when it is off the ground with the rear suspension at full travel. That way the weight of the bike isn't compressing the shock.
Were these videos fail is breaking down definitions of what things are. You have links and you have pins. Are we talking-2 pins Plus the master lock or actually two full links plus master
It went together easily in less than an hour. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
Thanks heaps for that....:)
nice video... very helpful, but i have one question, how about if you have a double chainset would it still be measured with the largest chainring?
Yes, always the largest chainring.
Yes, the two largest rings would be the maximum chain length required so you measure on those two.
what positions should you shift is be in when installing the chain what pedal rink should the chain go on?
Hi there, what is the music in the background. Thanks for the video.
thank u!
Where to fine it
thanks
You don't need to put a new chain on before every race and tbh i don't know of anyone who does for road or offroad.
is the measuring technique (2 links + the master link) the same for a road bike chain?
you determine the correct length based on putting the ends together without going through the derailleur....but that's a mistake because derailleurs vary in length. best off deliberately making the chain too long first, threading it through the derailleur, and then reducing the length ot the correct length afterwards surely?
No.
Why does the chain need to be so short? My bike came stock with a long chain and the rear derailleur, when on the largest sprocket, is pointing down and not in a crazy angle towards the front of the bike. If the derailleur has space to move, what does it matter how long the chain is?
In essence, I'm getting a new chain and if I shorten it too much, I will shoot myself.
The chain will perform better under more tension. It will shift crisper and will not drop as often-especially on rough terrain. They often don't take the time to get it just right at the factory. For more detailed installation info see my post above.
Hi. I have a KMC chain but it uses the pin system. Can I change it to master link system?
Yes. Just make sure the master link is rated for the number of speeds your chain is rated for. That is, for a 9-speed chain, use a 9 speed master link.
i bought a chain and did everythihg the video said. But the master link never snap to place.
Turn the crank and it should snap into place, if not you can use a tool. This one can open and close links quite easily:
www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/bbb-open-link-closing-link-tool-btl77/rp-prod47439
Some people use needle nose pliers too...that hasnt worked for me.
Sit on the bike and pedal it. It will snap into place then!
Way too short, will need another chain now!
song name please?
+Best Braai Soundtrack from some 70-80s porn film probably. LOL
what if my bike is 30 speed
Count only the speeds on the REAR CASSETTE. Your bike is probably a 10-speed rear with 3 front chainrings. While some may call it a "30-speed," it's more accurately a "10-speed with a triple crank."
Mmm, frayed cable, no crimp. Not good.
+slapped xbone You don't understand? Let a mechanic build your bike!
Forget it...he's being a try-hard.
"I'll scour the video to find something really obscure to point out like I just 'happened to have noticed it' and that'll make people think I'm legit."
LOL!
He's talking about the cable at end of rear derailleur...not even giving a thought to the fact that this bike might be a demo bike used specifically for these videos.
Jason Fischgrabe You think? I've been shooting bikes for 25 years -that was the first thing I noticed. Presentation is everything squire (lol)
jazzraspberry shooting bikes for what purpose, exactly?
Kmc makes 11 speed
where the world is going to.
You try-hards crack me up!!!
Grasp the scenario :
Guy picks up a bike that needs a lot of work, so he decides to post video of each "fix" to the internet to show average joes how to do their own maintenance.
Internet full of armchair-mechanics pick apart every obscure thing they can find about the bike, never once giving thought to the fact that the guy hasn't gotten to that part yet.
LMAO!!!
"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak and to remove all doubt."
A new chain before every race? LOL
They are like $7 why not
P
Трансмиссия грязная, у тросика наконечника нет ... странно, что цепь решил такой хозян сменить :)))
Wrong language. Look around.
i dont like your dirty hands. why dont u use gloves?
+Alin Ionut Virsescu Is that all you have to moan about .
Just match the new chain with the one you took off. Wow you guys.
Is it ok if the chains are the same make and model (new and old) to just lay them side by side and make the new chain the same length as the old one? Thanks
not necessarily the proper length is based on largest cogs. so if someone changed the freewheel or cranks they might have the wrong size chain. Also the comments here also mention derailers are different lengths. Its getting very complicated i agree. best to compare to other bikes and not follow blindly these videos.
P