Thank you very much for the videos on restoring the french slate clocks. I think I will be using all of the segments you filmed. I just had a 30 kilo clock shipped to me that was severly damaged in shipment, including a cracked inner structure as well as outter slate that will require total disassembly. Your videos cover many of the issues I will be facing.
This has happened to me on a couple of occasions. The shipping companies have no respect for the items they are delivering. I'm glad the videos are helpful.
your technique of heating the shoe polish is pretty amazing. have used it on my first restoration, thanks for taking the time to share. Your friend in Canada
Hi Marcos Thank you, it is always my intention give these clocks another life. They are far too beautiful to allow them to be thrown away and forgotten. Johnny
Is really not that hard. I'd say buy a really cheap clock or even a mechanism from ebay and just give it a go. Thats what I did. Dont forget to take lots of photos as you go along. Johnny
@@treetopspider Ment to also ask, do u use any special cleaning solution in your ultra sonic cleaner ? or just good old fashioned fairy and warm water?
@@grahamharkness5744 Ive been using a product called No1 Ammoniated from priorypolishes.co.uk. Its strong stuff and needless to say it does contain Ammonia so use in a well ventilated area. Theyre a good supplier an worth a nose around their website. Johnny
You’ve done an excellent job of the clock John, will look stunning with the new decals. Alas my clock kept stopping every 24 hours due to a problem with the striker mechanism. Stopped every day at the same time but I couldn’t see any issues with the cogs etc? I sort of solved it by removing the counting thing that pivots. I removed that and it runs fine but strikes once on the half hour and only once on the hour every hour. But as I say it runs fine now so I’ll settle for that for now
Thank you Neill, Part of what I enjoy about clockmaking is solving the brainteaser although it can get frustrating at times. We will naturally get better at it as we become more familiar with the movements and the way they work.
@@treetopspider , i am sharing the same hobby here. i want to see them restored in the state when they were sold back then. I have quite a collection of these clocks.
Hi Mark They worked out perfectly. The toughest job was choosing a font that matched the original as closely as possible. Other than that it was simply printing onto the special paper then soaking for a minute or so and then carfully applying the numeral with tweezers. You can reposition quite freely until you are happy and then leave to dry. I used a company called Dr Decal and Mr Hyde from Australia. By the way, I went to School with a Mark Clarke. so if youre originally from East London it may be you hahah
@@treetopspider I've just come across your channel tonight and I was very inspired and subscribed, I've got an old slate clock that I was looking to just make a little more presentable but I'm going to try and follow your videos and see how I go, mine has a brass face but the numerals are in a poor state hence the question, ill give that company a look up 👍and I'm from Nottinghamshire so not your long lost school pal lol, I'll be going through your videos over the next few days and get a few more ideas, thanks for the inspiration, Mark.
@@gottacrackemall4713 I appreciate the sub. I'm glad you liked the content. I'm pretty much self taught so the way I do things can change but the end result is always great. I did a short stint in a watchmaking class but found that too tedious. Old clocks are so much ,ore easier to work on and far more rewarding to look at. Just drop me a message if you want anything clarified. Good luck Johnny
Hi, what grade sandpaper do you go down to when sanding the miliput on your slate clocks, and then is it the slate blackening then wax polish on top, cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark, I really should be letting people know these things when I'm making videos. I generally go down to 1200 which gets the miliput ready for slate blackening and then polish. Let the slate black dry for a good day or so as I find that the wax picks up the dye Ideally, A couple of coats of blackening should do the trick and wax only if you need a deeper shine
It's ok mate they are great videos with very good content. My miliput, slate blackener and wax all came this weekend the clock has been stripped cleaned and a couple of nibbles on the corners filled ready for sanding tomorrow. The clocks movement is filthy and I mean its black lol so I think that will get sent off for a clean/ service, I'm getting through your vids and taking what I learn onto my clock, not confident enough to tackle the movement yet though, all the best mate, keep the videos coming, Regards, Mark.
@@gottacrackemall4713 thanks mark, its comments like this which keep me making videos. These french clocks are suprising easy to take apart and put back together. The best tip I can give you is take losts of photos from different angles and include the screws that go with each component. Maybe not this time but try it on a french cloch that doesnt have a chime on it. there are hardly any parts in those. it is really satisfying when you have serviced a clock and it works hahahah
Hi Rod, I do have a video in my channel whereby I show how I did the engravings. Ive tried several ways of doing this but my latest experiment using gilding wax was the best so far. Prior to that I was using a gold car spray paint because it has a high opacity. Basically spaying some into the cap and then using a toothpick or similar to flood the pain into the engravings. When It dried I would then use a sharp blade to shave off the excess. I'll try to work out which of my videos shows me doing this and let you know. Alternatively you may have to watch all my videos hahahah sorry ;-)
@@treetopspider Thank you, I have been using a gilding paint which is more your rub and buff but t does not come off the slate that easily so II have to use a solvent to remove it so then what was in the grooves also comes off I might give your toothpick method a go next.
@@rodmulholland3330 I used a fine piece of cloth wrapped around something stiff like a little block. I used a couple of drops of methylated spirit on the cloth and only wiped once in one direction before changinging the position of the cloth on the block to repeat the process. You have to be careful not to smear the gild. Also, leeave the gild overnight to harden slightly. If you go to my channel you will see there is a video of me filling in the engravings with paint and shaving it off with a razor.
@@rodmulholland3330 Hi Rod, Ive decided to make a short video showing how I fill in the engravings with gilding wax. Hopefully should have it finished edited and uploaded tomorrow.
Best videos on the tube, well done. I see you use a syringe, with clock oil? They can be expensive [I got 8 clocks] & the oil a bit thin. My choice is full synthetic car oil, 5w-30w, Shell Ultra, 1 l from eBay. Drop it into spindle holes [both sides, both plates] using mid-size syringe from an eBay 5-pack of blunt 5ml ones. Leave each side flat for 30 mins to soak into holes. Stay away from the gear teeth, a little on the escape, give it time to drain, then wipe excess off. Every 2 years, a lot of oil, my clocks now much more stable than with normal clock oil, all settled to good timekeeping. They will last forever, a very clever oil, for v. high pressure, it has no volatiles to evaporate, no ash to form sludge. I do not disassemble the movements & keep the faces on, but tilt carefully to keep the oil away from sliding onto the faces. Quick & easy, but doing 8 still takes a day. Be bold, a clock is just a mechanism like a car engine and plenty of high quality oil is vital. French clocks were originally lubed with sperm oil from whales, which has similar properties to the Ultra, and both are far superior to petroleum oil.
Wow!!! That was so informative. Are you a clock restorer? You make absolute sense in what you are saying about the fully synthetic car oil. I've been using a product called Windles clock oil. I don't think it's anything particularly special, and in fact quite cheap. I've been thinking about upgrading to a better oil but up until now, I couldn't make up my mind which oil to buy. I am going to take your advice and order some synthetic (I may even have some in my garage if I'm lucky. Thank you for your wonderful comment Johnny
@@treetopspider I collect them mostly for their marble [I am a geologist] and the mechanics are secondary. In fact I am a 'Keeper & Polisher,' not a 'Restorer' [Motorbike terminology, I had lots] and try to buy good, original ones by Japy Freres, Vincenti, Mougin & Marti only, that need nothing except wax polish on the cases. The movements are unpredictable as you know, the 1st two went to a Horologist to make work, £560 later I said never again. So good old Shell Helix Ultra [my Ducati used it] and the cheap syringes with a bottle of white spirit work just fine. The timekeeping has improved greatly on them all with it. Any 5w-30 synthetic oil would be OK, such as Mobil 1, but Shell was cheapest for 1 l on eBay at the time.
Thank you John, a great video and explanation. All black shoe polish again except the back grill and the columns which you sprayed with paint - yes? were the columns brass and you polished the heads and the bases as with the cherubs and sprayed the columns black. Or did you get the cherubs and column tops and bottom shiny another way? they do look fantastic, as does the whole clock. i was interested in your use of silicon instead of, I suppose, plaster of Paris which was used before. silicon seems ideal but may be a problem if you have to take it to pieces again. i am in awe and admiration at your confidence in reassembling the clock and you get it right first time. really interesting and gives me inspiration. Oh and just an observation. if the hands do not tally with the Hr and half hr strike exactly it is a problem which may be solved in some cases by removing the minute hand and setting it on an old small square fine file and spinning it a tiny arc, on its brass rivet to match the hour. if you do try this always twist very close to the center - if you do it at the end of the hand you will break it. anyway thanks for the "notice" and always watching.
Thanks again Simon. I polished all the metalwork on my buffer. As you can see they came out looking great. I am very much a 'what Ive got to hand' guy. I didnt have plaster of paris but I did have silicon :-) In fact I use silicon for a variety of gluing jobs. its super strong and can be dissembled with a sharp thin bladed knife. Great tip about the minute hand, I didnt think of doing anything like that. I'll do that at some point this week.
@@treetopspider Los engranajes de minuto, hora y reenvío tienen un punto cada uno que deben alinearse en el armado. Así quedarán sincronizados los gongs con la aguja minutera. Saludos.
Hi Kevin. I have tried various methoids of polishing. My current favourite is Marblack as i has the consistency of a thinned out boot polish. However, the clock I am currently restoring will be finished with boot polish as I personally think due to its thickness it hides light scatches better than Marblack. Boot polish definately gives a deeper shine.
Second comment: be careful of the ammonia-based cleaning fluid in the ultrasound, it oxidises the top layer of the movement's brass components, causing them to become brittle, dangerous for the cog teeth. The bright, shiny finish looks great, but is not wanted. The sludge you are trying to remove is a mixture of evaporated oil, its ash component and dust. It is better to use an organic solvent such as white spirit, which dissolves the oil remnants, ammonia is not needed. I use a long handled artist's oil painting brush with stiff bristles to wash the white spirit into and around the movement, back & front plates, reaching deep into the middle spindles, letting the white spirit run off into a small plastic tray. Faces still on, movement fully assembled, KEEP THE WHITE SPIRIT AWAY FROM THE FACES! Give the spirit time to evaporate off, 1-2 days, then use your 5w-30 synthetic car oil as previously described. This has worked for 6 of my clocks when bought, the other 2 still were still not happy, they needed 1 or 2 new bushes to the spindle holes, which had worn oval-due to lack of fresh oil!
To be honest, I am not really happy with the way the ammonia cleans my clock parts. The plates tend to come out looking 'blurry' and I think that the ammonia also leaves a film on the parts. The last clock I serviced, I washed all the parts in a sink and some washing up liquid after the ultrasonic bath to clean off any residue. Being self-taught, half the time I make up the rules when I can't find anything to refer too. Thank you for your advice, and I look forward to hearing more from you in the future. Johnny
@@treetopspider Water & strong detergent works wonders, but I was never sure about the drying time and the potential for rust to start forming on the steel parts. Plus complete disassembly was not for me, I have bad hand-eye coordination with age [74] and little patience with fiddly things, a recipe for disaster. Grab the complete thing in my hand & dab white spirit all around is about the best for me to manage. 'Make up the rules' is the best way to go, there are far too many old myths about clock maintenance.
@@donaldjones8920 Glad to be of help, it is an oil-based solvent equivalent to turpentine, usually used for cleaning paint brushes, and works well on the clock movements when they are clogged by old oil residue. Cheapest at B&M if you live in the U.K. I now use my wife's hairdryer to evaporate the remaining white spirit after thorough cleaning, takes about 10 minutes instead of waiting a day for it to happen naturally.
![“อ.เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม” มาตามคำเรียกร้อง แหกศาสตร์ฮวงจุ้ย เตือนสติอย่างมงาย | แฉ 7 พ.ย. 67 [1/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5fc4S3xBNfc/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you very much for the videos on restoring the french slate clocks. I think I will be using all of the segments you filmed. I just had a 30 kilo clock shipped to me that was severly damaged in shipment, including a cracked inner structure as well as outter slate that will require total disassembly. Your videos cover many of the issues I will be facing.
This has happened to me on a couple of occasions. The shipping companies have no respect for the items they are delivering.
I'm glad the videos are helpful.
Beautiful job. Such an inspiration. I only wish you could have found a clock topper to go on the top, but it turned out beautiful none the less.
Love your clock videos! Hope you make more!
Thank you. I think I'll be getting back to clocks in the new year
your technique of heating the shoe polish is pretty amazing. have used it on my first restoration, thanks for taking the time to share. Your friend in Canada
Hi Philip, Thats so good to hear. It's comments like this that make my day.
Thank you
Johnny
Beautifully done! 👍👍👍. Congratulations! 🎉🎉🎉. I love the results! ❤️❤️❤️.
Thank you 😃
Excellent video - thanks. Would it be easy to explain how you got clock to chime the correct number of hours? Mine only chimes once also.
Beautiful work!!!
You take the clock come back a life, again.
Congratulations!!!
Marcos Campos
Rio de Janeiro - Brasil
🙂🙂😉👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Marcos
Thank you, it is always my intention give these clocks another life. They are far too beautiful to allow them to be thrown away and forgotten.
Johnny
What is the polish you use on the black slate? What gold paint/brush technique did you use to restore the incised decoration?
Brilliant, i wish i had the nerve to strip, clean and rebuild old clocks
Is really not that hard. I'd say buy a really cheap clock or even a mechanism from ebay and just give it a go. Thats what I did.
Dont forget to take lots of photos as you go along.
Johnny
@@treetopspider good idea, i think i might just do that :)👍
@@treetopspider Ment to also ask, do u use any special cleaning solution in your ultra sonic cleaner ? or just good old fashioned fairy and warm water?
@@grahamharkness5744 Ive been using a product called No1 Ammoniated from priorypolishes.co.uk.
Its strong stuff and needless to say it does contain Ammonia so use in a well ventilated area.
Theyre a good supplier an worth a nose around their website.
Johnny
@@treetopspider Thanks very much Johnny, your advice is very much appreciated. 👍
You’ve done an excellent job of the clock John, will look stunning with the new decals.
Alas my clock kept stopping every 24 hours due to a problem with the striker mechanism. Stopped every day at the same time but I couldn’t see any issues with the cogs etc? I sort of solved it by removing the counting thing that pivots. I removed that and it runs fine but strikes once on the half hour and only once on the hour every hour. But as I say it runs fine now so I’ll settle for that for now
Thank you Neill, Part of what I enjoy about clockmaking is solving the brainteaser although it can get frustrating at times. We will naturally get better at it as we become more familiar with the movements and the way they work.
Exellent job there!
Thanks Danny. I'm still self learning but I feel I get better with each clock I restore
@@treetopspider , i am sharing the same hobby here. i want to see them restored in the state when they were sold back then. I have quite a collection of these clocks.
@@carquendo61 I looked to see if you had any videos. Perhaps give us a tour of your collection.
Hi, did the film free water roman numerals work that you was going to apply ???
Hi Mark
They worked out perfectly. The toughest job was choosing a font that matched the original as closely as possible. Other than that it was simply printing onto the special paper then soaking for a minute or so and then carfully applying the numeral with tweezers. You can reposition quite freely until you are happy and then leave to dry.
I used a company called Dr Decal and Mr Hyde from Australia.
By the way, I went to School with a Mark Clarke. so if youre originally from East London it may be you hahah
@@treetopspider I've just come across your channel tonight and I was very inspired and subscribed, I've got an old slate clock that I was looking to just make a little more presentable but I'm going to try and follow your videos and see how I go, mine has a brass face but the numerals are in a poor state hence the question, ill give that company a look up 👍and I'm from Nottinghamshire so not your long lost school pal lol, I'll be going through your videos over the next few days and get a few more ideas, thanks for the inspiration, Mark.
@@gottacrackemall4713 I appreciate the sub. I'm glad you liked the content. I'm pretty much self taught so the way I do things can change but the end result is always great.
I did a short stint in a watchmaking class but found that too tedious. Old clocks are so much ,ore easier to work on and far more rewarding to look at. Just drop me a message if you want anything clarified.
Good luck
Johnny
Hi, what grade sandpaper do you go down to when sanding the miliput on your slate clocks, and then is it the slate blackening then wax polish on top, cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark, I really should be letting people know these things when I'm making videos. I generally go down to 1200 which gets the miliput ready for slate blackening and then polish. Let the slate black dry for a good day or so as I find that the wax picks up the dye Ideally, A couple of coats of blackening should do the trick and wax only if you need a deeper shine
It's ok mate they are great videos with very good content. My miliput, slate blackener and wax all came this weekend the clock has been stripped cleaned and a couple of nibbles on the corners filled ready for sanding tomorrow. The clocks movement is filthy and I mean its black lol so I think that will get sent off for a clean/ service, I'm getting through your vids and taking what I learn onto my clock, not confident enough to tackle the movement yet though, all the best mate, keep the videos coming, Regards, Mark.
@@gottacrackemall4713 thanks mark, its comments like this which keep me making videos. These french clocks are suprising easy to take apart and put back together. The best tip I can give you is take losts of photos from different angles and include the screws that go with each component. Maybe not this time but try it on a french cloch that doesnt have a chime on it. there are hardly any parts in those. it is really satisfying when you have serviced a clock and it works hahahah
Would you please do a segment on how to restore the gold in the engraving's of the beauties. Thank you.
Hi Rod,
I do have a video in my channel whereby I show how I did the engravings. Ive tried several ways of doing this but my latest experiment using gilding wax was the best so far. Prior to that I was using a gold car spray paint because it has a high opacity. Basically spaying some into the cap and then using a toothpick or similar to flood the pain into the engravings. When It dried I would then use a sharp blade to shave off the excess. I'll try to work out which of my videos shows me doing this and let you know. Alternatively you may have to watch all my videos hahahah sorry ;-)
@@treetopspider Thank you, I have been using a gilding paint which is more your rub and buff but t does not come off the slate that easily so II have to use a solvent to remove it so then what was in the grooves also comes off I might give your toothpick method a go next.
@@rodmulholland3330 I used a fine piece of cloth wrapped around something stiff like a little block. I used a couple of drops of methylated spirit on the cloth and only wiped once in one direction before changinging the position of the cloth on the block to repeat the process. You have to be careful not to smear the gild. Also, leeave the gild overnight to harden slightly.
If you go to my channel you will see there is a video of me filling in the engravings with paint and shaving it off with a razor.
@@treetopspider Thank you, I have 2 garnitures in need of touching up, the clock itself is in quit a good state after a good wash.
@@rodmulholland3330 Hi Rod, Ive decided to make a short video showing how I fill in the engravings with gilding wax. Hopefully should have it finished edited and uploaded tomorrow.
Best videos on the tube, well done. I see you use a syringe, with clock oil? They can be expensive [I got 8 clocks] & the oil a bit thin. My choice is full synthetic car oil, 5w-30w, Shell Ultra, 1 l from eBay. Drop it into spindle holes [both sides, both plates] using mid-size syringe from an eBay 5-pack of blunt 5ml ones. Leave each side flat for 30 mins to soak into holes. Stay away from the gear teeth, a little on the escape, give it time to drain, then wipe excess off. Every 2 years, a lot of oil, my clocks now much more stable than with normal clock oil, all settled to good timekeeping. They will last forever, a very clever oil, for v. high pressure, it has no volatiles to evaporate, no ash to form sludge. I do not disassemble the movements & keep the faces on, but tilt carefully to keep the oil away from sliding onto the faces. Quick & easy, but doing 8 still takes a day. Be bold, a clock is just a mechanism like a car engine and plenty of high quality oil is vital. French clocks were originally lubed with sperm oil from whales, which has similar properties to the Ultra, and both are far superior to petroleum oil.
Wow!!! That was so informative. Are you a clock restorer? You make absolute sense in what you are saying about the fully synthetic car oil. I've been using a product called Windles clock oil. I don't think it's anything particularly special, and in fact quite cheap. I've been thinking about upgrading to a better oil but up until now, I couldn't make up my mind which oil to buy. I am going to take your advice and order some synthetic (I may even have some in my garage if I'm lucky.
Thank you for your wonderful comment
Johnny
@@treetopspider I collect them mostly for their marble [I am a geologist] and the mechanics are secondary. In fact I am a 'Keeper & Polisher,' not a 'Restorer' [Motorbike terminology, I had lots] and try to buy good, original ones by Japy Freres, Vincenti, Mougin & Marti only, that need nothing except wax polish on the cases. The movements are unpredictable as you know, the 1st two went to a Horologist to make work, £560 later I said never again. So good old Shell Helix Ultra [my Ducati used it] and the cheap syringes with a bottle of white spirit work just fine. The timekeeping has improved greatly on them all with it. Any 5w-30 synthetic oil would be OK, such as Mobil 1, but Shell was cheapest for 1 l on eBay at the time.
Thank you John, a great video and explanation. All black shoe polish again except the back grill and the columns which you sprayed with paint - yes? were the columns brass and you polished the heads and the bases as with the cherubs and sprayed the columns black. Or did you get the cherubs and column tops and bottom shiny another way? they do look fantastic, as does the whole clock. i was interested in your use of silicon instead of, I suppose, plaster of Paris which was used before. silicon seems ideal but may be a problem if you have to take it to pieces again. i am in awe and admiration at your confidence in reassembling the clock and you get it right first time. really interesting and gives me inspiration. Oh and just an observation. if the hands do not tally with the Hr and half hr strike exactly it is a problem which may be solved in some cases by removing the minute hand and setting it on an old small square fine file and spinning it a tiny arc, on its brass rivet to match the hour. if you do try this always twist very close to the center - if you do it at the end of the hand you will break it. anyway thanks for the "notice" and always watching.
Thanks again Simon.
I polished all the metalwork on my buffer. As you can see they came out looking great. I am very much a 'what Ive got to hand' guy. I didnt have plaster of paris but I did have silicon :-) In fact I use silicon for a variety of gluing jobs. its super strong and can be dissembled with a sharp thin bladed knife.
Great tip about the minute hand, I didnt think of doing anything like that. I'll do that at some point this week.
@@treetopspider thanks - always welcome good advice and yours is golden.
@@treetopspider Los engranajes de minuto, hora y reenvío tienen un punto cada uno que deben alinearse en el armado. Así quedarán sincronizados los gongs con la aguja minutera. Saludos.
good job
does shoe polish work on slate cases
Hi Kevin. I have tried various methoids of polishing. My current favourite is Marblack as i has the consistency of a thinned out boot polish. However, the clock I am currently restoring will be finished with boot polish as I personally think due to its thickness it hides light scatches better than Marblack. Boot polish definately gives a deeper shine.
I dunno know; good luck to the next person who attempts to refinish that case and separate it like you did. Guess it’ll do for a generation.
Second comment: be careful of the ammonia-based cleaning fluid in the ultrasound, it oxidises the top layer of the movement's brass components, causing them to become brittle, dangerous for the cog teeth. The bright, shiny finish looks great, but is not wanted. The sludge you are trying to remove is a mixture of evaporated oil, its ash component and dust. It is better to use an organic solvent such as white spirit, which dissolves the oil remnants, ammonia is not needed. I use a long handled artist's oil painting brush with stiff bristles to wash the white spirit into and around the movement, back & front plates, reaching deep into the middle spindles, letting the white spirit run off into a small plastic tray. Faces still on, movement fully assembled, KEEP THE WHITE SPIRIT AWAY FROM THE FACES! Give the spirit time to evaporate off, 1-2 days, then use your 5w-30 synthetic car oil as previously described. This has worked for 6 of my clocks when bought, the other 2 still were still not happy, they needed 1 or 2 new bushes to the spindle holes, which had worn oval-due to lack of fresh oil!
To be honest, I am not really happy with the way the ammonia cleans my clock parts. The plates tend to come out looking 'blurry' and I think that the ammonia also leaves a film on the parts. The last clock I serviced, I washed all the parts in a sink and some washing up liquid after the ultrasonic bath to clean off any residue.
Being self-taught, half the time I make up the rules when I can't find anything to refer too.
Thank you for your advice, and I look forward to hearing more from you in the future.
Johnny
@@treetopspider Water & strong detergent works wonders, but I was never sure about the drying time and the potential for rust to start forming on the steel parts. Plus complete disassembly was not for me, I have bad hand-eye coordination with age [74] and little patience with fiddly things, a recipe for disaster. Grab the complete thing in my hand & dab white spirit all around is about the best for me to manage. 'Make up the rules' is the best way to go, there are far too many old myths about clock maintenance.
Thank you. Never heard of white spirit before. I'll have to try it.
@@donaldjones8920 Glad to be of help, it is an oil-based solvent equivalent to turpentine, usually used for cleaning paint brushes, and works well on the clock movements when they are clogged by old oil residue. Cheapest at B&M if you live in the U.K. I now use my wife's hairdryer to evaporate the remaining white spirit after thorough cleaning, takes about 10 minutes instead of waiting a day for it to happen naturally.
Wat jammer dat er geen Nederlandse ondertiteling bij is. Voor mij is dit erg leerzaam 👌
Ik ben blij dat je genoten hebt van de video. Misschien vindt Google op een dag een manier uit om spraak rechtstreeks te vertalen.
Johnny