A fantastic video, I always treat a slate clock very much like the restoration of an old car wing, using wet and dry from 1000 to 3000 to remove and re polish, then rub with fine grit paint restoration cream, and finally natural beeswax, the finish is truly fantastic. Any cracks or missing sections can be fixed with fine black coloured resin, worked with fine clay moulding tools, then fine sanding to finish. As for the filling of the engraved parts, melt some hard wax, then using a fine brush, paint the wax on the surface area, being careful not to get wax into the engraved areas, then leave the case in a cold place for 5 hours, then paint the engraved section, any overpaint will then be on the wax and not on the case. You then leave the paint to dry for 12 hours, then use clear liquid lacquer to seal the paint within the engraved areas, then leave the lacquer to dry for 12 hours. Then using a new Stanley knife blade carefully lift the hard wax from the case, this will leave you with gold within the engraved areas, and not on the case, finish with a rubdown with 3000 grit, and finish with beeswax and polish. I’m sure there will be better ways, but I’ve always found this to be a good solution.
Hi Russel I think you are the person Ive have been searching for since my hobby of clock restoration began. Everything I do is self taught and mainly through trial and error. My methods are constantly changing. In some of my videos I have used slate blacking, but I consider this a cheat as the finished surface is no longer the natural polished slate. I have searched everywhere to find information on the restoration of these slate cases but there has never been anything as detailed as what you have kindly taken the time to write. Please tell me you live within driving distance of Essex so that I can come and watch you work. I dont mind sweeping your floors and making teas all day for you hahahah. Thank you ever so much for taking your time to comment Johnny
Hey Cubro, thanks for the positve feedback. I'm happy on two levels: 1 that someone is actually watching my videos and 2 that someone finds them useful hahaha. Johnny
Hi from Australia. I found this video fabulous, thanks so much. I would love to know how you approached the gold detail on the case. Thanks again, Vicki
Nicely done. If I may make a suggestion for the fine line pattern I found gold leaf to help. You can get the artificial leaf or real usually in art stores. A good art supply can set you up with proper techniques and materials. I hope this helps Thanks for your video.
Hi and thank you I have tried with gold leaf but my hand isnt steady enough to apply the size beforehand. I must admit the finish looked superb though. Since this video after trying lots of methods I discovered gilding wax. this works out very well as the application is far easier. as you'll see in one of my other videos. I'm pretty much self taugh and always appreciate any comments of advice Thanks again Johnny
I think this is a really great video. I am not sure how "correct" you are but the result is - as you say more refined than the slate blacking in part 1. question;- how is the shoe polish fixed? do you go over it from time to time with more polish - like shoes? or do you fix it with shellac - if that would work. and are you saying that the Uni Paint Marker is not the best way to do the gilt finish? maybe gold leaf? anyway thanks you are giving me ideas - I hope the right ones. Well done - I really enjoy your experimentation.
Hi Simon, thanks for your comment. Its nice to know that people are watching hahaha. So far since I made the video the sheen on the clock has remained. I havent sealed it with anything but having said that, It never came to my mind. I think a polish every so often with a soft cloth should keep it looking good for a while. The tip of the Uni Marker was a little too broad for my liking. I have thought about guilding but not yet tried it. I recon it may work as the glue is very thin and watery which means it could be applied quite accurately using a toothpick or prefrably a thin piece of bamboo wood. Ive just aquired another slate clock (my favorites) which I may have a go with guilding. I dont know if youve seen my clock face resoration. That one came out really well using spay can paint. the idea of that was that the paint is very thin and the gold particles are very fine and cover really well. I then used an old credit card to scrape off the excess. Take a look, you might find it intersting.
Just a thought. I am a bit concerned about boot polish as it, as a wax, will impregnated the slate. If as an alternative having painted with the slate paint which you don't like,can you sand the paint with a very fine paper to achieve the same effect as stage one in the video and then apply the boot polish. This means that you don't impregnated the slate. Having cleaned oak which has been stained there is no way of getting the stain out of the grain. If you want to fume the wood it has been spoilt and the grain is never as beautiful again. Just a thought.
@@s.spencertenagodus8051 The main reason I wasnt keen on the paint was the fact that it didnt impregnate into the marble and just sat as a skin on top. My idea of heating the wax was to get it to thin enough to enter the micropores of the marble and become a part of it, much like staining wood as opposed to painting it. the finished effects arent quite the same. the stained wood still has the feel and texture of wood whereas painted wood just feels like wood with a plastic layer over it. In an ideal world I would be polishing the marble but my few attempts havent given me the result I was hoping for yet
@@treetopspider thank you once again. i have a slate clock to renovate (my first one) so i am keen to learn how. i am following you with interest very interesting.
Hi, I have been following you for a little while, as I have a slate marble clock. I am stuck! I cleaned the clock and had to sand it as it mark's where pretty bad. Tried using a slate blackening, and had to sand that back as it was awful. But stumbled upon this video, tried this method and I have the finish I like. However, I tried to guild the inlays! Had to remove as it went everywhere. Buffed the excess with the 0000 wire wool, which of course went everywhere. What am I doing wrong? Should I seal the clock with something and if so what will seal shoe polish? Hope you can help. Thanks
Hi, I'm forever experimenting with ways to finish these clocks. I don't know if you've seen this video th-cam.com/video/FitlOygtnsc/w-d-xo.html This is now my preferred method. The gilding past does go where you don't want it to, but clean up is easier than some of my other methods. One good way of putting on the finish without affecting the gilding is to use a hard flat rubber block wrapped with a thin material like bedsheet fabric. Then dab on some shoe polish onto the fabric and polish the clock. Because the block is hard and the fabric is thin, it shouldn't bleed into your engravings. As for sealing the shoe polish, I haven't figured a way to do that yet, but generally I polish it until nothing comes off on my rag. It will also harden over time. Hope this helps Johnny
If you use wet and dry it will need to be polished using a power or bench polisher to remove fine scratches . Then boot polish or stove blacking gives a good finish.
Clock looks good. I wonder what you might recommend for filling a couple of small holes in the marble of a Victorian slate clock. Is Marblack the favourite for the slate followed by Renaissance wax? I look forward to hearing from you.
Hi Trevor I use something called MILLIPUT to fill in holes and cracks. In fact you'll see me use it in most of my videos. Once its gone off, you can sand and shape it as much as you want. to finish the job I coat the whole surface with Marblack or shoe polish. I buy most things from: www.cousinsuk.com you'll find all sorts of interesting things on their website. Johnny
@@treetopspider Thanks Johnny for your reply. I was wondering what you might think of the idea to do the gilding first having first washed the clock, then to do polishing with boot polish followed by micro-crystalline wax? ps Marblack seems not to be available at present. Thanks very much. Trevor
@@trevorpurrington7718 Hi Trevor. I have always done the blackening first and then the gilding. After I have blackened I clear out the engravings with an old screwdriver that Ive rounded off to take away the sharp edges and lately I have been using gilding wax to fill in the recesses, scrape off using an old credit card or fresh single sided blade then after 24 hours I clean the surrounding areas with a tissue moistented with the smallest amount of turps. that can be followed up but a very light boot polish again if needed. See my video for more details th-cam.com/video/FitlOygtnsc/w-d-xo.html Johnny
I've just purchased a French mantle black slate marble clock , good external contidin does tick for couple min then stops 😫 I tried balancing it I'm no expert got that info of guy I bought off , also noticed the forks bent slightly in a downward position pendulum doesn't rest straight in slot of forks any idea from you guys on you tube ?
Hi Gary, setting the beat is the first thing to try. the easiest way is to place a penny under the right hand side of the case and listen to its sound. You are looking for an even tick - tock - tick -tock. if its is out it will sound more like ticktock - ticktock- ticktock (if that makes sense.) then try the penny under the left hand side of the clock. If you establish that the beat is out, you can then slacken off the 2 screws behind the mechanism that hold the front and back together and very slightly spin the dial to the left or right, what ever makes it tick evenly. That should sort it out if the beat is out. It could be that the clock hasnt been serviced in some time. The oil which used to be clean and thin becomes like a sludge over time as parts wear. This causes friction which restricts the movement from turning freely. Servicing isnt that hard to do. I taught myself a couple of years ago. I have uploaded quite a few videos as tutorials. The great thing about it is that you dont really need any specialist tools for the job either. I hope that works and thank you for watching. Johnny
I’ve inherited a green onyx mantle clock. How should I clean it? I’m not sure what to use especially as the onyx is green. Any advice would be helpful 👍🏻cheers
Hi Matthew Ive never owned an Onyx clock but I imagine the principles are the same as with slate. I'd take a bowl with some warm water and some washine up liquid added to it. using a soft cloth and some paper towels (kitchen roll) to dry it, If there are any particularly grimy parts in the nokks and crannys, use an old toothbrush to get at them. Once finished, I like to use Renaissance Micro Crystalline Wax polish to feed the stone. Good luck Johnny
Great tip thanks I've got a cast iron black clock and its got some very sad multi-colored marble, how did you get that looking so good? after watching this I was thinking clear shoe polish or should i use something else any tips would be greatly appreciated
Hi Nick and thanks for the comment. I used shoe wax originally and heated it up using a hot air gun to try and make it 'suck in' to the marble. Since then I have discovered another product called MARBLACK. I liked this product as its a stain as opposed to a paint. It quite thin which is a good thing and when you use it with a piece of cotton wool wrapped in a bit of cotton sheet, you dont get streaking lines. Its well worth a try
@@hibbsnick well i cleaned it wilh a good kitchen cleaner to get of built up grime and then I uses a few drops of olive oil on a rag. Seemed to do the trick
i would appreciate advice on how you resurrected the "gilt" embellishment on either side and on the ends. as usual, I am seeing all your informative videos - but not necessarily in the right order! Sorry! but i am a keen follower and your unexplained details are my questions - please!
Hi Simon I have tried two different types of Gold Leaf neither of which are actually real Gold. Ive tried flakes and sheets and I think the sheets were a little better. I bought a kit from ebay for about £10 which included a little pot of glue and some brushes. Its a very simple process of applying the glue to the part you want to gild and allowing it to become slightly tacky then literally place the sheets over your part and brush it in. then just use the remaining part of the sheet to fill in any empty gaps. It goes on pretty seamlesly. Maybe I'll do a short video on the subjet at some point
@@treetopspider thank you. i know that real gold leaf is expensive but your suggestion of the cheaper version is very helpful. i have just got a great slate clock in questionable condition and i am biding my time trying to research the correct methods in reviving it. i must recheck your posts to follow preparation and finishes!
Hi, what do you do with the coloured marble sections? I have a clock where these are quite rough and flakes occasionally come off, especially if masking them when doing the black sections. Any thoughts?
Hi, I have not come across this problem so far. My initial thought is that maybe a neutral coloured leather or wood wax may seal the marble. Or possibly a clear coat of nail varnish. Much of what I do is an improvisation or experimentation until I find a solution. Sorry I cant be more accurate with an answer but I hope that helps a little Johnny
So you definitely think that boot polish is better than the curAtor slate blackening.? I’ve got several bloody french mantel clocks from 1850 - 1900 that all need a bit of TLC. So any further advice would be apprecites
Hi Neil I suppose it's down to preference really. The Curator stuff is like a paint that sit as a skin on top of the slate and for me gave the slate a false shiny look. Whereas the boot polish tended to shine the marble as well as blacken it. Think of it like painting a pieced of wooden furniture versus waxing it. I have experimented with melting boot polish and mixing in Olive oil to try and turn it into a soft paste which would make it easier to use but I didnt manage to get the consistency quite right. Perhaps I'll try again. Johnny
@@neiljohnson2491 I havent uploaded anything for a while now. I'm pretty much repeating myself in each video and decided that It must be a bit repetitious for people that follow me. I dont wanna bore everyone hahahah
@@neiljohnson2491 Look for a channel called cliffs shed. He has made one that he uses on his drill press. He doesnt show how he made it but you'll get the general idea
john i have been researching and have been recommended Marbec's Brightsone Nero as a "black" slate treatment, may not be good for grey or greenish slate, and their finisher giving a dirt prevention coating. Website for the latter is:- www.marbec.it/it/catalogo-prodotti/finitore-antimacchia-antisporco-idrofinlucido/ If you have any comments i would be interested. i think, in time, i will give this a try on sample pieces before your "boot black" as it seems to be a tried and tested commercial procedure and not the high gloss thick slate preparation you disliked in you other videso. Again just a thought - not my recommendation!
Hi Simon, I looked at that product. I half want to try it out just out of interest. Ive bought another couple of clocks lately, just trying to find the time to restore them.
@@treetopspider you like me! i have several slate marble clocks (+ of 6 so far) but have not yet started as i have previously stocked up on Enfield and other French chiming clocks (really quite difficult to get them to sync after dismantling etc) i am aching to get onto the slate clocks but have to sort out the others first. i am presently searching for answers on the slate clocks - as you previously said there is nothing helpful on TH-cam apart from treetopspider's comments! i think it will be a month or so until i get started on the first slate clock. when i do i hope to be better informed and maybe helpful. i will be following you - you are quite frankly an invaluable supply of good information - thank you!
A fantastic video, I always treat a slate clock very much like the restoration of an old car wing, using wet and dry from 1000 to 3000 to remove and re polish, then rub with fine grit paint restoration cream, and finally natural beeswax, the finish is truly fantastic.
Any cracks or missing sections can be fixed with fine black coloured resin, worked with fine clay moulding tools, then fine sanding to finish.
As for the filling of the engraved parts, melt some hard wax, then using a fine brush, paint the wax on the surface area, being careful not to get wax into the engraved areas, then leave the case in a cold place for 5 hours, then paint the engraved section, any overpaint will then be on the wax and not on the case.
You then leave the paint to dry for 12 hours, then use clear liquid lacquer to seal the paint within the engraved areas, then leave the lacquer to dry for 12 hours. Then using a new Stanley knife blade carefully lift the hard wax from the case, this will leave you with gold within the engraved areas, and not on the case, finish with a rubdown with 3000 grit, and finish with beeswax and polish. I’m sure there will be better ways, but I’ve always found this to be a good solution.
Hi Russel
I think you are the person Ive have been searching for since my hobby of clock restoration began. Everything I do is self taught and mainly through trial and error. My methods are constantly changing. In some of my videos I have used slate blacking, but I consider this a cheat as the finished surface is no longer the natural polished slate. I have searched everywhere to find information on the restoration of these slate cases but there has never been anything as detailed as what you have kindly taken the time to write. Please tell me you live within driving distance of Essex so that I can come and watch you work. I dont mind sweeping your floors and making teas all day for you hahahah.
Thank you ever so much for taking your time to comment
Johnny
I found this video extremely helpful in the restoration of my black marble clock. I used steel wool and shoe polish. It worked wonders! Thank you!
Hey Cubro, thanks for the positve feedback. I'm happy on two levels: 1 that someone is actually watching my videos and 2 that someone finds them useful hahaha.
Johnny
Hi from Australia. I found this video fabulous, thanks so much. I would love to know how you approached the gold detail on the case. Thanks again, Vicki
Nicely done. If I may make a suggestion for the fine line pattern I found gold leaf to help. You can get the artificial leaf or real usually in art stores. A good art supply can set you up with proper techniques and materials. I hope this helps
Thanks for your video.
Hi and thank you
I have tried with gold leaf but my hand isnt steady enough to apply the size beforehand. I must admit the finish looked superb though. Since this video after trying lots of methods I discovered gilding wax. this works out very well as the application is far easier. as you'll see in one of my other videos.
I'm pretty much self taugh and always appreciate any comments of advice
Thanks again
Johnny
I think this is a really great video. I am not sure how "correct" you are but the result is - as you say more refined than the slate blacking in part 1. question;- how is the shoe polish fixed? do you go over it from time to time with more polish - like shoes? or do you fix it with shellac - if that would work. and are you saying that the Uni Paint Marker is not the best way to do the gilt finish? maybe gold leaf? anyway thanks you are giving me ideas - I hope the right ones. Well done - I really enjoy your experimentation.
Hi Simon, thanks for your comment. Its nice to know that people are watching hahaha.
So far since I made the video the sheen on the clock has remained. I havent sealed it with anything but having said that, It never came to my mind. I think a polish every so often with a soft cloth should keep it looking good for a while.
The tip of the Uni Marker was a little too broad for my liking. I have thought about guilding but not yet tried it. I recon it may work as the glue is very thin and watery which means it could be applied quite accurately using a toothpick or prefrably a thin piece of bamboo wood. Ive just aquired another slate clock (my favorites) which I may have a go with guilding.
I dont know if youve seen my clock face resoration. That one came out really well using spay can paint. the idea of that was that the paint is very thin and the gold particles are very fine and cover really well. I then used an old credit card to scrape off the excess. Take a look, you might find it intersting.
@@treetopspider thanks again for your help and ideas. I will keep in touch with your videos as I hear of them
Just a thought. I am a bit concerned about boot polish as it, as a wax, will impregnated the slate. If as an alternative having painted with the slate paint which you don't like,can you sand the paint with a very fine paper to achieve the same effect as stage one in the video and then apply the boot polish. This means that you don't impregnated the slate. Having cleaned oak which has been stained there is no way of getting the stain out of the grain. If you want to fume the wood it has been spoilt and the grain is never as beautiful again. Just a thought.
@@s.spencertenagodus8051 The main reason I wasnt keen on the paint was the fact that it didnt impregnate into the marble and just sat as a skin on top. My idea of heating the wax was to get it to thin enough to enter the micropores of the marble and become a part of it, much like staining wood as opposed to painting it. the finished effects arent quite the same. the stained wood still has the feel and texture of wood whereas painted wood just feels like wood with a plastic layer over it. In an ideal world I would be polishing the marble but my few attempts havent given me the result I was hoping for yet
@@treetopspider thank you once again. i have a slate clock to renovate (my first one) so i am keen to learn how. i am following you with interest very interesting.
Te ha quedado muy bien, contigo se aprende. Gracia por compartir👍
Hi, I have been following you for a little while, as I have a slate marble clock. I am stuck! I cleaned the clock and had to sand it as it mark's where pretty bad. Tried using a slate blackening, and had to sand that back as it was awful. But stumbled upon this video, tried this method and I have the finish I like. However, I tried to guild the inlays! Had to remove as it went everywhere. Buffed the excess with the 0000 wire wool, which of course went everywhere. What am I doing wrong? Should I seal the clock with something and if so what will seal shoe polish? Hope you can help. Thanks
Hi,
I'm forever experimenting with ways to finish these clocks. I don't know if you've seen this video th-cam.com/video/FitlOygtnsc/w-d-xo.html
This is now my preferred method. The gilding past does go where you don't want it to, but clean up is easier than some of my other methods. One good way of putting on the finish without affecting the gilding is to use a hard flat rubber block wrapped with a thin material like bedsheet fabric. Then dab on some shoe polish onto the fabric and polish the clock. Because the block is hard and the fabric is thin, it shouldn't bleed into your engravings.
As for sealing the shoe polish, I haven't figured a way to do that yet, but generally I polish it until nothing comes off on my rag. It will also harden over time.
Hope this helps
Johnny
@@treetopspider Hi Thanks for the advice. It certainly worked better this time round. I'm happy with it now 🙂
If you use wet and dry it will need to be polished using a power or bench polisher to remove fine scratches . Then boot polish or stove blacking gives a good finish.
Hi Norman, I havent experimented too much with wet or dry. What would you use on the bench polisher to take out the scratches?
@@treetopspider I have used boot polish or stove polish . Even bees wax will work .
Clock looks good. I wonder what you might recommend for filling a couple of small holes in the marble of a Victorian slate clock. Is Marblack the favourite for the slate followed by Renaissance wax? I look forward to hearing from you.
Hi Trevor
I use something called MILLIPUT to fill in holes and cracks. In fact you'll see me use it in most of my videos. Once its gone off, you can sand and shape it as much as you want. to finish the job I coat the whole surface with Marblack or shoe polish. I buy most things from:
www.cousinsuk.com
you'll find all sorts of interesting things on their website.
Johnny
@@treetopspider Thanks Johnny for your reply. I was wondering what you might think of the idea to do the gilding first having first washed the clock, then to do polishing with boot polish followed by micro-crystalline wax? ps Marblack seems not to be available at present. Thanks very much. Trevor
@@trevorpurrington7718 Hi Trevor. I have always done the blackening first and then the gilding. After I have blackened I clear out the engravings with an old screwdriver that Ive rounded off to take away the sharp edges and lately I have been using gilding wax to fill in the recesses, scrape off using an old credit card or fresh single sided blade then after 24 hours I clean the surrounding areas with a tissue moistented with the smallest amount of turps. that can be followed up but a very light boot polish again if needed. See my video for more details
th-cam.com/video/FitlOygtnsc/w-d-xo.html
Johnny
@@treetopspider Thanks Johnny that's very useful. Great videos.
I've just purchased a French mantle black slate marble clock , good external contidin does tick for couple min then stops 😫 I tried balancing it I'm no expert got that info of guy I bought off , also noticed the forks bent slightly in a downward position pendulum doesn't rest straight in slot of forks any idea from you guys on you tube ?
Hi Gary, setting the beat is the first thing to try. the easiest way is to place a penny under the right hand side of the case and listen to its sound. You are looking for an even tick - tock - tick -tock. if its is out it will sound more like ticktock - ticktock- ticktock (if that makes sense.) then try the penny under the left hand side of the clock. If you establish that the beat is out, you can then slacken off the 2 screws behind the mechanism that hold the front and back together and very slightly spin the dial to the left or right, what ever makes it tick evenly.
That should sort it out if the beat is out. It could be that the clock hasnt been serviced in some time. The oil which used to be clean and thin becomes like a sludge over time as parts wear. This causes friction which restricts the movement from turning freely.
Servicing isnt that hard to do. I taught myself a couple of years ago. I have uploaded quite a few videos as tutorials. The great thing about it is that you dont really need any specialist tools for the job either.
I hope that works and thank you for watching.
Johnny
I’ve inherited a green onyx mantle clock. How should I clean it? I’m not sure what to use especially as the onyx is green. Any advice would be helpful 👍🏻cheers
Hi Matthew
Ive never owned an Onyx clock but I imagine the principles are the same as with slate. I'd take a bowl with some warm water and some washine up liquid added to it. using a soft cloth and some paper towels (kitchen roll) to dry it, If there are any particularly grimy parts in the nokks and crannys, use an old toothbrush to get at them.
Once finished, I like to use Renaissance Micro Crystalline Wax polish to feed the stone.
Good luck
Johnny
@@treetopspider that’s great thank you. I will try that. I just was worried something may damage the onyx but will try what you have suggested!
Great tip thanks
I've got a cast iron black clock and its got some very sad multi-colored marble, how did you get that looking so good? after watching this I was thinking clear shoe polish or should i use something else any tips would be greatly appreciated
Hi Nick and thanks for the comment.
I used shoe wax originally and heated it up using a hot air gun to try and make it 'suck in' to the marble. Since then I have discovered another product called MARBLACK. I liked this product as its a stain as opposed to a paint. It quite thin which is a good thing and when you use it with a piece of cotton wool wrapped in a bit of cotton sheet, you dont get streaking lines. Its well worth a try
@@treetopspider thanks for that. can i ask you how did you get that multicolored marble on your main clock body looking so fresh looking
@@hibbsnick well i cleaned it wilh a good kitchen cleaner to get of built up grime and then I uses a few drops of olive oil on a rag. Seemed to do the trick
treetopspider thanks for that
i would appreciate advice on how you resurrected the "gilt" embellishment on either side and on the ends. as usual, I am seeing all your informative videos - but not necessarily in the right order! Sorry! but i am a keen follower and your unexplained details are my questions - please!
Hi Simon
I have tried two different types of Gold Leaf neither of which are actually real Gold. Ive tried flakes and sheets and I think the sheets were a little better. I bought a kit from ebay for about £10 which included a little pot of glue and some brushes. Its a very simple process of applying the glue to the part you want to gild and allowing it to become slightly tacky then literally place the sheets over your part and brush it in. then just use the remaining part of the sheet to fill in any empty gaps. It goes on pretty seamlesly. Maybe I'll do a short video on the subjet at some point
@@treetopspider thank you. i know that real gold leaf is expensive but your suggestion of the cheaper version is very helpful. i have just got a great slate clock in questionable condition and i am biding my time trying to research the correct methods in reviving it. i must recheck your posts to follow preparation and finishes!
Hi, what do you do with the coloured marble sections? I have a clock where these are quite rough and flakes occasionally come off, especially if masking them when doing the black sections. Any thoughts?
Hi, I have not come across this problem so far. My initial thought is that maybe a neutral coloured leather or wood wax may seal the marble. Or possibly a clear coat of nail varnish. Much of what I do is an improvisation or experimentation until I find a solution. Sorry I cant be more accurate with an answer but I hope that helps a little
Johnny
@@treetopspider That's fine, good ideas, will try them on the hidden parts of the columns. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
So you definitely think that boot polish is better than the curAtor slate blackening.?
I’ve got several bloody french mantel clocks from 1850 - 1900 that all need a bit of TLC.
So any further advice would be apprecites
Hi Neil
I suppose it's down to preference really. The Curator stuff is like a paint that sit as a skin on top of the slate and for me gave the slate a false shiny look. Whereas the boot polish tended to shine the marble as well as blacken it. Think of it like painting a pieced of wooden furniture versus waxing it. I have experimented with melting boot polish and mixing in Olive oil to try and turn it into a soft paste which would make it easier to use but I didnt manage to get the consistency quite right. Perhaps I'll try again.
Johnny
@@treetopspider thanks for replying I’ll definitely give the old kiwi bootpolish ago . I’m thouroughly enjoying your utubes keep them coming please.
@@neiljohnson2491 I havent uploaded anything for a while now. I'm pretty much repeating myself in each video and decided that It must be a bit repetitious for people that follow me. I dont wanna bore everyone hahahah
I need to find the tube that has the jig made for bushing clock plates please ,
@@neiljohnson2491 Look for a channel called cliffs shed. He has made one that he uses on his drill press. He doesnt show how he made it but you'll get the general idea
john i have been researching and have been recommended Marbec's Brightsone Nero as a "black" slate treatment, may not be good for grey or greenish slate, and their finisher giving a dirt prevention coating. Website for the latter is:- www.marbec.it/it/catalogo-prodotti/finitore-antimacchia-antisporco-idrofinlucido/
If you have any comments i would be interested. i think, in time, i will give this a try on sample pieces before your "boot black" as it seems to be a tried and tested commercial procedure and not the high gloss thick slate preparation you disliked in you other videso. Again just a thought - not my recommendation!
Hi Simon, I looked at that product. I half want to try it out just out of interest. Ive bought another couple of clocks lately, just trying to find the time to restore them.
@@treetopspider you like me! i have several slate marble clocks (+ of 6 so far) but have not yet started as i have previously stocked up on Enfield and other French chiming clocks (really quite difficult to get them to sync after dismantling etc) i am aching to get onto the slate clocks but have to sort out the others first. i am presently searching for answers on the slate clocks - as you previously said there is nothing helpful on TH-cam apart from treetopspider's comments! i think it will be a month or so until i get started on the first slate clock. when i do i hope to be better informed and maybe helpful. i will be following you - you are quite frankly an invaluable supply of good information - thank you!