I seen a lot of black between cylinders bores 3 and 5 ,4 and 6 on the block and gasket.To me that's a failure point.I would straight the heads and block.Thumbs up
Yep I saw that as well. The block has been decked. I'm taking the heads to the machine shop this week and I will have them check them for straightness. Good eye! 😁
most 350 small block head have 1.94 intake and 1.5 exhaust valves. only the LT1 and L82 engines in the 70s got the 2.020 and 1.60 valves. the 882 head was very common in mid 70s smog motors. it is not uncommon to have them be from different months. But that date range is a little to wide in my opinion. I have a 71 Camaro SS 396 - 4 Speed car. I am the second owner of the car. it has the original numbers matching engine and had never been apart until i had it rebuilt. the heads were casts about 4 weeks from each other. and little under a month before the car was ran down the line. just a heads up. most of the time i see broker rocker studs or bent push rods, it is because the cam has more lift than the slot in the rocker arm can accommodate. at the 4:34-4:36 mark of the video it looks like i can see some rub marks on the intake stud for cylinder 3. and also exhaust stud on #3 of the rocker studs look different that then others. after along at all the studs, the exhaust stud on #3 and the intake studs on 6 and 8 are different from the others. in color and appearance. what happens is that the cam has more lift than the length of the slot in the rocker are can accommodate, and it cause the studs and push rods to flex. eventually they hit metal fatigue and break. in hydraulic cam motors its it will force the lifter cup down a little bit and bleed of the pressure to until the cup hit the bottom of its travel and then bottoms out. this will then cause the pushrods and rocker studs to flex. also aftermarket cams usually require stiffer springs to prevent valve float. that can also result in the studs flexing or pulling loose from the heads. the make a DIY tool to cut down the rocker stud bosses and install screw in studs. its worth it to prevent the studs pulling out.
@terryfallert1371 I was only referring to the 70s smogger era 350s in my previous comment. There several others in the 60 that 2.02, 1.60 valves. But good catch. It was also a pretty common upgrade for people to do when having one rebuilt until cheap aftermarket heads became widely available back in the 90.
If the gasket blew between the coolant passage and the intake passage, yes it could. The intake passage has vacuum, so if the gasket was compromised between the coolant passage and the intake passage, the vacuum can suck antifreeze into the cylinder and cause a misfire, or cause white smoke to come out of the exhaust pipes. BUT - a head gasket can do the same thing. First thing to do is remove all the spark plugs, keeping them in order, and examine each one. They should be dry, and either a brownish color, or black. If one is wet or sticky looking, that's your problem cylinder. Clean them and reinstall them, keeping in mind any that were wet or sticky and which cylinder it was. Then do this: start the vehicle up, and remove the radiator cap right away. If you see bubbles coming out of the radiator cap opening, then compression pressure could be pushing into the cooling system from a blown head gasket. If it's bubbling, then most likely the problem is a bad head gasket. No bubbles = head gaskets are OK. Then you need to pull the intake manifold off CAREFULLY, trying not to damage the intake gasket as much as possible. Examine the intake manifold, gasket, and intake runners for signs of damage or excessive moisture from antifreeze being drawn into the intake passages. If you find that, you've found your problem. Clean it up really good and apply my method to reinstall it. Good luck! Thanks for watching! 😁
Drilling the rocker studs will reduce their strength. Maybe you can get away with it on a stock engine that never sees high RPMs, but not so much on a modified engine. You will be OK if you don't wind it up too high or too often.
It's not going to see high RPMs. It's going in a truck that will be just driven on the streets and cruised in. Watch my bottom end tear down video to find out what my new plan is for the heads! 😁
mightbe 8 to 1 dont think its close to 9 and a half to one with flat top pistons less with dished pisstons if you run doomed piston thats higher compression
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I seen a lot of black between cylinders bores 3 and 5 ,4 and 6 on the block and gasket.To me that's a failure point.I would straight the heads and block.Thumbs up
Yep I saw that as well. The block has been decked. I'm taking the heads to the machine shop this week and I will have them check them for straightness. Good eye! 😁
At that point you know it's high rent
@@jameshester1450 High rent? 🤷
Great video. Thanks
Thanks! Be sure to subscribe and watch my rebuild videos! 😁
most 350 small block head have 1.94 intake and 1.5 exhaust valves. only the LT1 and L82 engines in the 70s got the 2.020 and 1.60 valves. the 882 head was very common in mid 70s smog motors. it is not uncommon to have them be from different months. But that date range is a little to wide in my opinion. I have a 71 Camaro SS 396 - 4 Speed car. I am the second owner of the car. it has the original numbers matching engine and had never been apart until i had it rebuilt. the heads were casts about 4 weeks from each other. and little under a month before the car was ran down the line. just a heads up. most of the time i see broker rocker studs or bent push rods, it is because the cam has more lift than the slot in the rocker arm can accommodate. at the 4:34-4:36 mark of the video it looks like i can see some rub marks on the intake stud for cylinder 3. and also exhaust stud on #3 of the rocker studs look different that then others. after along at all the studs, the exhaust stud on #3 and the intake studs on 6 and 8 are different from the others. in color and appearance. what happens is that the cam has more lift than the length of the slot in the rocker are can accommodate, and it cause the studs and push rods to flex. eventually they hit metal fatigue and break. in hydraulic cam motors its it will force the lifter cup down a little bit and bleed of the pressure to until the cup hit the bottom of its travel and then bottoms out. this will then cause the pushrods and rocker studs to flex. also aftermarket cams usually require stiffer springs to prevent valve float. that can also result in the studs flexing or pulling loose from the heads. the make a DIY tool to cut down the rocker stud bosses and install screw in studs. its worth it to prevent the studs pulling out.
I ended up installing a set of pioneer screw in studs. Had the machine shop do it for me. Should be good to go.
I have 69 dz302 heads that are 202 heads
@terryfallert1371 I was only referring to the 70s smogger era 350s in my previous comment. There several others in the 60 that 2.02, 1.60 valves. But good catch. It was also a pretty common upgrade for people to do when having one rebuilt until cheap aftermarket heads became widely available back in the 90.
Verizon run run long enough to seek the Rings otherwise it would be ring wash my guess with flat Pistons it was cast iron rings
@@jameshester1450 Huh?
4
Could a blown intake manifold gasket leak coolant into my spark plug port? Or do the heads need to come off? 1995 GMC 5.7.
If the gasket blew between the coolant passage and the intake passage, yes it could. The intake passage has vacuum, so if the gasket was compromised between the coolant passage and the intake passage, the vacuum can suck antifreeze into the cylinder and cause a misfire, or cause white smoke to come out of the exhaust pipes. BUT - a head gasket can do the same thing. First thing to do is remove all the spark plugs, keeping them in order, and examine each one. They should be dry, and either a brownish color, or black. If one is wet or sticky looking, that's your problem cylinder. Clean them and reinstall them, keeping in mind any that were wet or sticky and which cylinder it was. Then do this: start the vehicle up, and remove the radiator cap right away. If you see bubbles coming out of the radiator cap opening, then compression pressure could be pushing into the cooling system from a blown head gasket. If it's bubbling, then most likely the problem is a bad head gasket. No bubbles = head gaskets are OK. Then you need to pull the intake manifold off CAREFULLY, trying not to damage the intake gasket as much as possible. Examine the intake manifold, gasket, and intake runners for signs of damage or excessive moisture from antifreeze being drawn into the intake passages. If you find that, you've found your problem. Clean it up really good and apply my method to reinstall it. Good luck! Thanks for watching! 😁
I reuse all LS bolts, no problem
Ok I thought you were supposed to replace the head bolts because they are stretch to torque? 🤷
Nothing brats the old stock
Huh?
I can see the f****** blown head gasket
@@jameshester1450 Why are you angry? Chill out dude. 😁
72 cc's
@@jameshester1450 Yep, nothing fancy, but good street heads. 👍😁
Drilling the rocker studs will reduce their strength. Maybe you can get away with it on a stock engine that never sees high RPMs, but not so much on a modified engine. You will be OK if you don't wind it up too high or too often.
It's not going to see high RPMs. It's going in a truck that will be just driven on the streets and cruised in. Watch my bottom end tear down video to find out what my new plan is for the heads! 😁
@@WagsAutomotive My new favorite video series.
@@michaelschiffel sweet! New video posted today! 😁
mightbe 8 to 1 dont think its close to 9 and a half to one with flat top pistons less with dished pisstons if you run doomed piston thats higher compression
Flat top pistons generally give you a 9:1 compression ratio. The stock pistons are dished, and they are 8:1.