Definitly enjoyed the background music during the time lapse on Episode 17 over the silence in Episode 16. Keep it up Brian. Great to see the videoes that doesn't stop just because the day is over. I like watch the videos that cover the entire goals rather than piece meal it to death. And I understand the Part 1 & Part 2 etc vid sessions on the big pieces. Will make it a lot easier to watch again when I want a reference refresher, like say just the wings.
After watching you work your butt off covering this plane, if I ever build one I'm using Oratex. You are doing a great job young man. The reason I said "if I ever build one" is I'm going on 72yrs old. Kind of late to start something like this, but an old man can dream!
Frank Fisher, I will be 73 in June. My Kitfox kit is due in April of next year. The whole process is keeping me alive! I am going out soon with Stick & Rudder and get reacquainted with the tail wheel and see how much difference there is between a Kitfox and a Cub! I agree with ChirsBow Piloto!
The only time these days I get excited by a TH-cam notification is when you post a video. Not sure why TH-cam thinks I want to watch videos of Turkish belly dancers, people who live in their vans, or nutters who think the pyramids were created by aliens, thus I rarely watch anything on this bizarre alleged service. Apart from being interesting to this long time tailwheel aviator the best part is that you're relentlessly sane, Bryan. Never expected that to be unusual 😅😂 🤣
So interesting to see how it's done now! I helped do 3 planes as an Explorer Scout, but that was 55 years ago. Avionics sounds interesting, too. Thanks for sharing
Archer here, if the CF arrows were built correctly the tips/inserts will have been installed with hotmelt (and not CA) so just heat the metal bit until its warm enough and you can just pull it out.
I love seeing you guys start to embrace the wearing of helmets. As you know with your day job head trauma is no joke. I know they were required for Reno but other than that I hadn't really seen too many of the STOL youtubers wearing them. We now know with CTE that small blows to the head can cause injury that isn't immediately noticeable. A helmet might have even helped minimize the facial injuries suffered by Nik in his crash even if his brain looked completely fine in imaging. I'm glad the adapters have come to market that allow the use of quality ANR headsets like Bose with quality helmets. I'm not sure how Bose feels about modifying their product when it comes to the TH-camrs they sponsor but they should be encouraging helmet use and maybe can even work with the guys making the helmet adapters to allow continued warranty coverage and other customer support and allow the pilots they sponsor to use the modified product in videos.
Ok so just had a blond moment....watching you put the cover on the tail, I'm thinking the whole time why isn't he covering that hole ...then ...."for those of you that don't know".... about that time the light turned on.... Glad I didn't ask the question I'd planned to....LoL😂🤣 😜 Dang it's looking like a plain, good job & thx again...👍👍👍
Thanks for taking the time. Those tubes misplaced. Can you slice and bond new ones in the correct location. Just needs protection on the bottom. Kitfox coming in June. All this is great to watch.
I'm sooo addicted to these videos and so interesting to watch this beauty come together. Thanks again for posting. I just recently found your channel and I'm curious what you do for a living? You seem to be living the dream in northern CA with a couple of planes, time to fly and build. It's great to see.
Good job ! the fabric looks great! ,, maybe you could spiral cut a piece of plastic tube and curl it on the control cable to protect it, don't know , just a thought.
Another wonderful video! Your workmanship is top rate. Nice to see the family vacation photos. Keep up the good work. Thanks. (One thumbs down? Was that from the guy your wife dumped to start dating you years ago? LOL!!
As far as cable covers over control tube, you might consider Gluing a piece of poly tube onto your control tube where cables touch. If and when they wear into poly, it would be easy to peel off old, and restore new piece on control during condition inspection.
Great progress Brian! I feel a collaborative Onshape.com design coming on, if you're interested - for a 3D printed split-shell mount to clamp the ends of the (reused) rudder cable tube ferrules, or new slitted tubes, onto the existing post. It should be a straightforward design - and useful for my own kit due in 11 months WooHooo! :) As for securing the aft window panels - before you screw or rivet*, check out a couple of great 3M products: The vast range of 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tapes for all sorts of industrial applications is definitely worth a look. I used 3M VHB 4943F (available on Amazon) for securing 3D printed ABS avionics mounting brackets to the engine side of a firewall in a recent Jabiru rewire project. It avoided the need to drill any more holes in the firewall - and if the part were to get so hot the ABS exceeds its glass transition temp (>105ºC) or the adhesive fails (>150ºC), well there's other things to worry about. Here's 3M's VHB design guide: multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1204168O/3m-vhb-tape-design-guide-high-res-pdf.pdf Alternatively - but I suspect the adhesive is quite a bit thicker - In USA: 3M 'Window Weld Sealer' ~ UK: 'Auto Glass Direct Glaze Adhesive Strip'. PN 8611 is the widest at 5/16" (8mm). Lastly, I heard the RV guys use a Sikaflex RTV product - but that's definitely going to be messier to apply neatly. *Considering aircraft fabric is primarily glued on (except for rib stitching) I don't understand why we're still putting stress-risers into aircraft transparencies by screwing and riveting, when very capable adhesives exist. The result looks neater too. Jabiru VHB mounted accessories pics: www.dropbox.com/sh/1mjkg5fpuvmm8kk/AAAUqWr6_3H63oQgx51Rf6E0a?dl=0
I'm a bit behind the drag curve, sorry - the Kitfox Final Assembly Manual (available online) mentions using VHB tape for the aft windows - but doesn't recommend any one in particular.
It seems like I am seeing you use the ski waxing iron to heat shrink the fabric. You must have been able to come up with a way to calibrate the temperature. Can you share how you did this? Great build and so instructive! Thanks!
It’s coming along nicely Brian. Really appreciate the time and effort you are taking to produce these videos. Keep up the good work. Did you receive the email I sent a few weeks back, inquiring about Beringer brakes for a Kitfox?
Awesome video, Bryan! Really enjoying the build! Just a thought regarding the rudder cable sleeves. Could you just leave the incorrect ones in, as they're not causing any harm, and just add new tubes forward of the mounts? Cut the tubes lengthwise to install them over the cables and affix them to the mounts, somehow?
Bryan (hope I spelled that right), regarding the rudder cables, instead of messing with those incorrectly installed sleeves, how about putting an anti-chafe block on the control tube? I'm thinking of approx 1/4" thick UHMW, shaped to match the tube OD. It could be located with a couple of small roll pins and held in place with those rubber-lined zip ties that Mike Patey sells (with the rubber ties, you might not even need locating pins). Then, in ten years when the UHMW wears a bit, it's easily changed by cutting the ties and installing a new block. You could probably make the blocks from a cheap cutting board like this: smile.amazon.com/dp/B000W4OC80 UHMW melts at around 265 deg F, so you can heat it in your oven to around 230-240 and form it to the control tube. Cut to size first, then heat, form to the tube and clamp it until it cools completely. Alternatively, you can get low-friction, high-tack UHMW tape and wrap the control tube with a few layers. It might be harder to replace down the road, but less work overall. The tape is also available on Amazon. Awesome channel; I'm always happy to see a notification for Project Kitfox!
Dry ice may make the hisol brittle enough to crack out away from the metal, Is the tube long enough to cut the glued inch off and still cover the fwd bar , then you can easily hack out the remaining piece. Not to sure about using heat gun even then , you have your powder coating and the bottom fabric is a bit close for oopsy's Another suggestion is leave it and put a bit of plastic tube along the front bar where the cables may hit . Bit of pvc tube cut along so it just clamps over the metal tube , you can replace it if worn then .
For the arrow shaft, I would go with carbon because it is stronger. The tip is easy to remove from a carbon shaft, or you can get a new one for $1.50 from your local archery shop. All that said, I expect you will be fine with what you have
Great episode as always. Question: when you go skiing with the family and come to a nice, long and wide slope as shown in the last seconds of the video, how quick are you to think: "hmm, I wonder what I could do with the plane in a place like THIS"..? :)
Just want to start by thanking you for all the videos huge fan been a subscriber for a couple months I've been building and flying model airplanes for 35 years I have kind of a personal question what do you think you will have into your airplane in the end cost
Thanks for sharing your updates Brian. Did you come up with a mechanical stop to prevent a servo going over center? I'm not sure whether those aviation servos can ever 'run away', but you sure don't want a run away servo going over center, that would guarantee a very, very bad day. Is there some kind of metal physical stop you will be putting in?
It will not hurt to leave that protective cover where it is, and just apply another protective cover over that piece of rudder cable on the forward side.
Brian, what you are calling tape is it really tape with adhesive or does the Polly coat just soaking through the fabric hold it on, also I can't tell because the camera is to far away, does the tape have straight or jagged edges .
Another great vid, it is fun watching you make progress! Question, are you still considering turbocharging your Yamaha? The reason I ask is I visited Idaho last week (where I am originally from; in England now) and one of the guys I went snowmobiling with had his after market turbo Yam explode on the trip. Really violently, it shreaded the engine bay under tray. Not sure of the original failure mode but it looked like a rod broke at the big end that started the explosion of parts. I dont know the guy but my brother does and if you are interested I can ask him to find out what the mechanics say.
Do you need to remove the covers on the cables? You might add covers where they should be and leave at the 'wrong' place if it doesn't hurt the function.
Paul Gradenwitz I was thinking the same exact thing. I’ve had a throttle cable snap for this exact reason. The protective cover was not installed correctly. More covers always seem better than less to me now ;)
wow! a lot happening. excellent. bravo. paint... are you going to attempt it, or pay a pro? maybe you've already addressed this in a previous video. i suspect you have, and i've seen them all, but for the life of me i can't remember. anyway, just curious. :)
Painting myself. I feel like if you are going to build an airplane yourself, you need to do it all. It is to learn and live the experience. So, it may look like crap, we will see. LOL
those tubes don't look very thick. why cant you just cut them length wise and install them in front and use pvc glue and glue the seam back together or if its different plastic just use fast set glue. number of ways to cut that tube.
hello friend ! I would like to build a fox kit do you have this project and could you help me with the construction do you have a WhatsApp number to talk to. Thank you jefferson brasil!
Mike Patey might make building look easy - but you're showing us how it's really done! In a garage, working it out as you go - So good to watch!!!
Definitly enjoyed the background music during the time lapse on Episode 17 over the silence in Episode 16. Keep it up Brian. Great to see the videoes that doesn't stop just because the day is over. I like watch the videos that cover the entire goals rather than piece meal it to death. And I understand the Part 1 & Part 2 etc vid sessions on the big pieces. Will make it a lot easier to watch again when I want a reference refresher, like say just the wings.
After watching you work your butt off covering this plane, if I ever build one I'm using Oratex. You are doing a great job young man. The reason I said "if I ever build one" is I'm going on 72yrs old. Kind of late to start something like this, but an old man can dream!
Frank Fisher you got time yet, go do it!
Frank Fisher, I will be 73 in June. My Kitfox kit is due in April of next year. The whole process is keeping me alive! I am going out soon with Stick & Rudder and get reacquainted with the tail wheel and see how much difference there is between a Kitfox and a Cub! I agree with ChirsBow Piloto!
This helped me realise just how much work building an aircraft like this takes. Thanks for an interesting video!
Seriously dude, you've got the best flight intro on the market .... your content's pretty cool.
Loving the build videos! Thanks again for taking the time outta building to share with us 😎
Dude, I’m so excited for this ferocious Vulpes Macrotis!
Great video, good info.
Boom! Thanks for sharing.
Yes.......I love it. And first to comment!! You rock, thanks for the killer grips. Can't wait to get them on my soon to be built Highlander.
You do a great job of filling those "non-descript hours" with lots of "diligent work. Congratulations on the completion of you fabric covering.
nice job Brian , thanks for sharing
I like watching the build videos because it's telling me what to look for when I go to build airplane. Thanks a lot
Thank you for making these videos. I really enjoy following your progress, can't wait to see this baby up in the air!!
The only time these days I get excited by a TH-cam notification is when you post a video. Not sure why TH-cam thinks I want to watch videos of Turkish belly dancers, people who live in their vans, or nutters who think the pyramids were created by aliens, thus I rarely watch anything on this bizarre alleged service. Apart from being interesting to this long time tailwheel aviator the best part is that you're relentlessly sane, Bryan. Never expected that to be unusual 😅😂 🤣
Intro is so cool...
Very interesting video building a kit fox. Way to go, love it. Thanks for making these.
So interesting to see how it's done now! I helped do 3 planes as an Explorer Scout, but that was 55 years ago. Avionics sounds interesting, too. Thanks for sharing
Archer here, if the CF arrows were built correctly the tips/inserts will have been installed with hotmelt (and not CA) so just heat the metal bit until its warm enough and you can just pull it out.
Thank you for the video - the build is coming long - sooner then you think you'll be flying 'her'. Take care be safe. Spin
I love seeing you guys start to embrace the wearing of helmets. As you know with your day job head trauma is no joke. I know they were required for Reno but other than that I hadn't really seen too many of the STOL youtubers wearing them. We now know with CTE that small blows to the head can cause injury that isn't immediately noticeable. A helmet might have even helped minimize the facial injuries suffered by Nik in his crash even if his brain looked completely fine in imaging. I'm glad the adapters have come to market that allow the use of quality ANR headsets like Bose with quality helmets. I'm not sure how Bose feels about modifying their product when it comes to the TH-camrs they sponsor but they should be encouraging helmet use and maybe can even work with the guys making the helmet adapters to allow continued warranty coverage and other customer support and allow the pilots they sponsor to use the modified product in videos.
Come on People Share this channel with all your wingnut friends, Excellent content Brian! Looking good!
Great Progress‼️👍👍🛩. Vinny 🇺🇸
You're doing great! Thanks for the update.
She's coming along great Bry!!
Like super duper space age version of the CVCs we had in the cavalry. And the Kitfox is really starting to resemble an airplane.
Ok so just had a blond moment....watching you put the cover on the tail, I'm thinking the whole time why isn't he covering that hole ...then ...."for those of you that don't know".... about that time the light turned on.... Glad I didn't ask the question I'd planned to....LoL😂🤣 😜
Dang it's looking like a plain, good job & thx again...👍👍👍
excellent
Thanks for taking the time. Those tubes misplaced. Can you slice and bond new ones in the correct location. Just needs protection on the bottom. Kitfox coming in June. All this is great to watch.
Good suggestion. If I can't get them out I may need to do that.
Can you carefully take a cutoff wheel and cut the swage on the cables without destroying the cable?
For every job there is a right way a wrong way and an ARMCHAIR EXPRT way. 😎
It's looking good Brian. I'm looking forward to seeing the engine on it. Probably not as much as you though.
Great video. Thanks!
I'm sooo addicted to these videos and so interesting to watch this beauty come together. Thanks again for posting. I just recently found your channel and I'm curious what you do for a living? You seem to be living the dream in northern CA with a couple of planes, time to fly and build. It's great to see.
Good job ! the fabric looks great! ,, maybe you could spiral cut a piece of plastic tube and curl it on the control cable to protect it, don't know , just a thought.
I'm really excited to see the weight difference between a painted poly fiber system and some of the recent oratex builds.
Very inspiring!
Subscribed!
Another wonderful video! Your workmanship is top rate. Nice to see the family vacation photos. Keep up the good work. Thanks. (One thumbs down? Was that from the guy your wife dumped to start dating you years ago? LOL!!
Thanks for sharing.....
As far as cable covers over control tube, you might consider Gluing a piece of poly tube onto your control tube where cables touch. If and when they wear into poly, it would be easy to peel off old, and restore new piece on control during condition inspection.
Great progress Brian! I feel a collaborative Onshape.com design coming on, if you're interested - for a 3D printed split-shell mount to clamp the ends of the (reused) rudder cable tube ferrules, or new slitted tubes, onto the existing post. It should be a straightforward design - and useful for my own kit due in 11 months WooHooo! :)
As for securing the aft window panels - before you screw or rivet*, check out a couple of great 3M products:
The vast range of 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tapes for all sorts of industrial applications is definitely worth a look. I used 3M VHB 4943F (available on Amazon) for securing 3D printed ABS avionics mounting brackets to the engine side of a firewall in a recent Jabiru rewire project. It avoided the need to drill any more holes in the firewall - and if the part were to get so hot the ABS exceeds its glass transition temp (>105ºC) or the adhesive fails (>150ºC), well there's other things to worry about. Here's 3M's VHB design guide: multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1204168O/3m-vhb-tape-design-guide-high-res-pdf.pdf
Alternatively - but I suspect the adhesive is quite a bit thicker - In USA: 3M 'Window Weld Sealer' ~ UK: 'Auto Glass Direct Glaze Adhesive Strip'. PN 8611 is the widest at 5/16" (8mm). Lastly, I heard the RV guys use a Sikaflex RTV product - but that's definitely going to be messier to apply neatly.
*Considering aircraft fabric is primarily glued on (except for rib stitching) I don't understand why we're still putting stress-risers into aircraft transparencies by screwing and riveting, when very capable adhesives exist. The result looks neater too.
Jabiru VHB mounted accessories pics:
www.dropbox.com/sh/1mjkg5fpuvmm8kk/AAAUqWr6_3H63oQgx51Rf6E0a?dl=0
I'm a bit behind the drag curve, sorry - the Kitfox Final Assembly Manual (available online) mentions using VHB tape for the aft windows - but doesn't recommend any one in particular.
Thanks Bryan!
You could also get a longer servo arm so it doesn't rotate as far.
It seems like I am seeing you use the ski waxing iron to heat shrink the fabric. You must have been able to come up with a way to calibrate the temperature. Can you share how you did this?
Great build and so instructive! Thanks!
theres a thermometer button you can buy, you set it on the iron to check the temp.
It doesn’t get hot enough for the final shrink but is useful for the first couple passes.
It’s coming along nicely Brian. Really appreciate the time and effort you are taking to produce these videos. Keep up the good work. Did you receive the email I sent a few weeks back, inquiring about Beringer brakes for a Kitfox?
THANK YOU SIR
Awesome video, Bryan! Really enjoying the build!
Just a thought regarding the rudder cable sleeves. Could you just leave the incorrect ones in, as they're not causing any harm, and just add new tubes forward of the mounts? Cut the tubes lengthwise to install them over the cables and affix them to the mounts, somehow?
Maybe get another 2 sleeves, split them down their length, vee out the join along its length, pop them in. Now sleeves on both sides. Cool.
Glue them before popping them in.
Bryan (hope I spelled that right), regarding the rudder cables, instead of messing with those incorrectly installed sleeves, how about putting an anti-chafe block on the control tube? I'm thinking of approx 1/4" thick UHMW, shaped to match the tube OD. It could be located with a couple of small roll pins and held in place with those rubber-lined zip ties that Mike Patey sells (with the rubber ties, you might not even need locating pins). Then, in ten years when the UHMW wears a bit, it's easily changed by cutting the ties and installing a new block. You could probably make the blocks from a cheap cutting board like this: smile.amazon.com/dp/B000W4OC80
UHMW melts at around 265 deg F, so you can heat it in your oven to around 230-240 and form it to the control tube. Cut to size first, then heat, form to the tube and clamp it until it cools completely.
Alternatively, you can get low-friction, high-tack UHMW tape and wrap the control tube with a few layers. It might be harder to replace down the road, but less work overall. The tape is also available on Amazon.
Awesome channel; I'm always happy to see a notification for Project Kitfox!
Dry ice may make the hisol brittle enough to crack out away from the metal,
Is the tube long enough to cut the glued inch off and still cover the fwd bar , then you can easily hack out the remaining piece.
Not to sure about using heat gun even then , you have your powder coating and the bottom fabric is a bit close for oopsy's
Another suggestion is leave it and put a bit of plastic tube along the front bar where the cables may hit . Bit of pvc tube cut along so it just clamps over the metal tube , you can replace it if worn then .
I read someone comment the other day that brake cleaner will work to release hysol. Worth a shot if it won’t be too messy.
I’ll give it a try
cold use that spiral wire loom protector and put a piece on both directions. should protect cable. be easy to replace also
For the arrow shaft, I would go with carbon because it is stronger. The tip is easy to remove from a carbon shaft, or you can get a new one for $1.50 from your local archery shop. All that said, I expect you will be fine with what you have
It is only holding up a few ounces of fabric. Strength really isn't an issue.
put piece of tin under the tubing and above the fabric put heat on to release the plastic sleeves
Exactly how it was fixed. 👍
Great episode as always. Question: when you go skiing with the family and come to a nice, long and wide slope as shown in the last seconds of the video, how quick are you to think: "hmm, I wonder what I could do with the plane in a place like THIS"..? :)
Just want to start by thanking you for all the videos huge fan been a subscriber for a couple months I've been building and flying model airplanes for 35 years I have kind of a personal question what do you think you will have into your airplane in the end cost
I will try and share that for everyone as I get to the end. I started with a budget of $65K and so far I'm on target.
Thanks for sharing your updates Brian. Did you come up with a mechanical stop to prevent a servo going over center? I'm not sure whether those aviation servos can ever 'run away', but you sure don't want a run away servo going over center, that would guarantee a very, very bad day. Is there some kind of metal physical stop you will be putting in?
It will not hurt to leave that protective cover where it is, and just apply another protective cover over that piece of rudder cable on the forward side.
Brian, what you are calling tape is it really tape with adhesive or does the Polly coat just soaking through the fabric hold it on, also I can't tell because the camera is to far away, does the tape have straight or jagged edges .
It is just pre-cut fabric that has pinked edges and is glued down with the poly brush.
Would it be possible to put something on the control tube to protect the cables?
Hi, Great video's. Did you post a great rudder gust lock that a buddy built for you? I don't seem to be able to find it again.
I don’t think that was me.
Another great vid, it is fun watching you make progress! Question, are you still considering turbocharging your Yamaha? The reason I ask is I visited Idaho last week (where I am originally from; in England now) and one of the guys I went snowmobiling with had his after market turbo Yam explode on the trip. Really violently, it shreaded the engine bay under tray. Not sure of the original failure mode but it looked like a rod broke at the big end that started the explosion of parts. I dont know the guy but my brother does and if you are interested I can ask him to find out what the mechanics say.
Not going to turbo at first. Going to test in with the stock engine and see how it goes.
Do you need to remove the covers on the cables? You might add covers where they should be and leave at the 'wrong' place if it doesn't hurt the function.
Paul Gradenwitz I was thinking the same exact thing. I’ve had a throttle cable snap for this exact reason. The protective cover was not installed correctly. More covers always seem better than less to me now ;)
@@Lobsta01 One item less to worry about. That little extra weight will not prevent you from taking off. Good luck:)
Cut a slit in plastic tube slip it over cable split a second tube over first and glue
That way no cut line in the tube
How long to cover the entire aircraft?
Just covering can be done in a couple days, the tapes are time consuming and the paint takes a lot of time. For me 4 months to cover and paint.
Got me
Is there any stitching to do on the Fuselage? Vertical fin?
Not required, but some may elect to do that.
wow! a lot happening. excellent. bravo.
paint... are you going to attempt it, or pay a pro? maybe you've already addressed this in a previous video. i suspect you have, and i've seen them all, but for the life of me i can't remember. anyway, just curious. :)
Painting myself. I feel like if you are going to build an airplane yourself, you need to do it all. It is to learn and live the experience. So, it may look like crap, we will see. LOL
Project Kitfox what are your thoughts on latex for paint. The EAA has a webinar on using latex instead of automotive paint
Planos para mim desse aviao mano, para eu construi-lo.
Добрый день! Можно у вас получить чертежи самолёта?
Очень хотелось бы построить такой самолет.но не знаю где взять чертежи
Anri Lihoi the plane is called “kitfox” just Google it!
@@tonusoodla4868 какой Гугл. Толком ничего нет
those tubes don't look very thick. why cant you just cut them length wise and install them in front and use pvc glue and glue the seam back together or if its different plastic just use fast set glue. number of ways to cut that tube.
hello friend ! I would like to build a fox kit do you have this project and could you help me with the construction do you have a WhatsApp number to talk to. Thank you jefferson brasil!