How NOT to paint an RC Car Body! Tamiya Lunch Box
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- Here's the Final Result and my disastrous attempts completing the final steps of the Tamiya Lunch Box 1/12 2WD Black Edition Classic Re-release 1987 Monster Truck assembly kit! A few tips on what NOT to do ... and an opportunity to learn from my mistakes if you are planning your first attempt at painting a hard body. Always happy to share.
Well, to be honest, I am a happy hobbyist! I got a Lunch Box to run! And my mistakes, the scratches and the uneven paint, only really shows in bright studio light (and maybe in the bright sunshine, we will see about that ...) Looking so much forward running it and filming it!
A warm thank you to the extremely generous ´RC Elf´ who donated this kit to me! Words are not enough to describe my gratitude!
Watch the complete unboxing here: • My First Tamiya Lunch ...
Watch the complete build here: • Building a 1987 RC Car...
First runs coming up soon ! More info below!
Thank you for watching!
Subscribe here for future RC content: www.youtube.co...
Second RC channel with vlogs, reviews, updates, behind the scenes and more RC cars: / @nordichobbyvisions719
See the video list in my channels for many more previous RC videos!
New videos every week!
Please comment and like ... if you like! Subscribe and "Ring the bell" to stay notified! Don't miss out! All support is greatly appreciated!
Happy Hobby Days and Keep 'em Running!
See you soon!
----------------------
What went wrong? First, the painting was done spontaneously and in a haste - in a few hours I suddenly had for myself between work, duties and kids. Next time I will definitely plan it more thoroughly. I forgot it's not as easy as a lexan body.
Secondly, it's been a while since I done a hard body - and I was mistakenly convinced that the sandpaper grit P600 was fine enough. It definitely isn't - when not using a few layers of thick priming. A few years ago I did perhaps 4-5 hard bodies, and I honestly can't remember which type of grit I used. But I remember sanding the body was never a problem as those were done with a primer. So why not a primer this time? I hoped for a body where the scratches on the paint during future runs/crashes wouldn't show up so easily (black paint on black plastic). Instead I got a very scratched body from the start which I only discovered later, when examining it under the braight studio lights.
Thirdly, I will never ever do a hard body paint job in my garage again. It's dark/poorly and even though I inspected it during layers with lights, it just isn't the same as painting outside with good daylight. I have previously painted polycarbonate bodies in the autumn in my garage with no problems. But hard bodies require more.
Lastly, I think the cold and rainy autumn weather outside was causing issues for the drying process of the paint. The result is a very uneven texture - even after using a whole can of paint and multiple thin layers.
Well, it is what it is. I should probably just have left it with the black plastic. Or waited for a good sunny day. Or at least started all over again with some primer and a new black spray can. But well, painting was never my favorite part of the hobby and I just didn't have the motivation to start all over again. I have a very limited spare time right now. In this hobby, I'm okay with some interesting challenges from time to time - but the hobby must never become something that I do not enjoy. That's the golden rule. The next hard body I do, will definitely not be until the spring. Hopefully with a better final result. But again, I am satisfied with this Lunch Box and super excited to get it out running!
Tamiya Lunch Box 2005 Re-Release Specifications:
- First released in 1987 (Item 58063)
- First re-release in 2005 (Item 58347)
- This edition: 2012 Black Edition (Item 58546)
- Scale: 1/12
- Drive Line/Transmission Type: 2WD (Rear Wheel Drive)
- Hard Plastic Body
- Hard Plastic CW-01 Chassis
- Length: 385 mm
- Width: 290 mm
- Height: 225 mm
- Weight: 1560 g
- Springs (non-oil-filled)
- Plastic & Brass Bushings
- Electric Motor Included: Mabuchi RS-540SH Brushed 27T
- ESC Included: TBLE-04S 75A Brushed/Brushless (2021 release)
- Black plastic body & wheels, manual & decals special to the Black Edition
Optional parts used (this particular unit):
- Tamiya TEU-105BK ESC
- Tamiya TSU-03 Servo
- Tamiya TRU-08 Receiver
- Tamiya Finespec 2.4G Transmitter
- Carson DT-01 Full Ball Bearings
Paint used:
- Tamiya TS-14 Black
- Tamiya X-6 Orange
- Tamiya X-11 Chrome Silver
-----------------------------------------------
#NordicRCVisions Statement:
This video features homemade footage of my own #RcCar #TamiyaLunchBox #TamiyaLunchBoxBlack #TamiyaRCCar #TamiyaClassic #TamiyaMonsterTruck from my personal #RC collection. All rights reserved.
All #RcCars and RC parts in this video are hobby-grade and intended for adults and ages +14 years.
Seen MUCH worse!
TBH I've avoided sanding bodies completely sometimes and it's come out fine, as long as all traces of grease are removed. I have shells I painted in 2016 that aren't flaking even though I went straight onto plastic. Some people say if the grit is too fine, it won't give the paint anything to grip to anyway because it's too thick to sink into such tiny surface imperfections. No idea if it's really true.
I've gone as low as 360 grit with primer on top and the primer has covered the scratches. Regular paint is much thinner though so if you're going to sand AND skip primer, you may very will need a much finer paper to avoid scratches showing.
I think the cold weather may have been your worst problem, as you said. Higher humidity levels make a huge difference too. I only paint indoors between autumn-spring. Just lots of light coats and plenty of ventilation.
The grainy texture could be because of the high humidity or maybe too big a distance allowing the paint to begin drying while airborne. That can be hard to avoid even in good conditions, though. They say ideally you want to spray close and heavy enough that the paint just begins to look wet, that way you'll get a very nice glossy finish without needing hours of sanding and clear coat etc but in reality, getting that wet look is so close to getting runs, I tend to try and get a compromise between finish and practicality most of the time. Go look up close at something like an XB lunchbox and you'll see some graininess on those, too, even though they are supposedly expert built!
Also helps to shake the can for a good minute or so and sit it in quite warm water to warm the paint up inside the can.
Apologies if I'm just repeating stuff you already know well.
It still looks great, though! If you buy satin finish paint it will pretty much have that exact same texture!
And after a scrape or two, I'm sure you won't mindanyway lol.
Such a great comment and help! Deserves to be pinned so people clicking on ‘How Not to …” can at least read a comment on “How to …” 😀 Thank you so much. ‘Humidity”. That was the English word I was looking for when writing some of the text in the video. This time I sadly had no time to look up English words. Yeah, all your comments make very much sense to me. It’s been a couple of years since I did a hard body - and all those where done in the summer and with primer after the sanding. So this ‘autumn painting’ in the un-heated garage without primer had some unexpected results that took me by surprise. And yeah, I think the ‘grainy’ appearance is common. It’s on several of those I did back in the past in the summer too. And even though I got the P1500 finishing sandpaper from Tamiya I’ve never used it. But it’s the difference in color that was unexpected - some places it looks very mat and in other places glossy. And I think you are right - it’s the humidity in the air and probably uneven paint that caused it (maybe a longer drying process between layers could have prevented it - in order to make sure everything was dried completely).
I guess the conclusions are: 1) Painting hard bodies in the summer are easier and harder to mess up. 2) Sanding is only a bulletproof process if one plans to use primer 3) Painting hard bodies in the autumn-winter requires more expertise, planning and skills.
I will make sure to return to this video and re-read your tips before my next hard body. Thank you so much again, my brother.
@@NordicRC You're very welcome and thanks for the kind words!
I'm not an expert painter by any means, I know some people will sand->prime->sand->paint->sand->top coat->polish with possibly several repetitions of the paint->sand part of the cycle going through many different grades of paper. All the hard work will pay off in a mirror finish but I rarely do anything like that because for me, the time and effort involved isn't worth it.
It does seem like the humidity and cold were big issues, especially with a patchy finish like you say. Gloss can have matte patches in it and matte can have glossy patches etc if the humidity is too high.
like I say, I'm no expert or perfectionist but I do find it helps to have humidity lower than about 60 and sitting the can it hot-ish water till the paint warms up and shaking it until you are sick of shaking both help the paint to come out in a nice fine mist and it seems to lay better.
Not waiting long enough between coats can be an issue if it's really wet still but tbh, I often use a hairdryer to speed up the drying between coats and it doesn't seem to have a negative effect.
I find those things can help to get a DECENT finish quickly and easily. I'm not saying you will get the best finish, but it will help you get an acceptable result.
Those bodies from 2016 I mentioned, they have a finish as good as a Tamiya XB model which is acceptable to me. And despite being painted directly onto unsanded plastic, they haven't peeled at all.
I admire those who do many coats with sanding in between through various grades of paper and then top cat then polish etc but it's not for me, the law of diminishing returns makes it more time/effort than I'm willing to sacrifice lol
@@ValleyRC That's exactly how I paint mine. Either wash and apply paint direct or wash, prime then apply paint.
It might not be perfect but it's good enough for me and doesn't peel/flake.
Considering people get orange peel on their Bugatti's, I'm not going to sweat it on an RC car body that's going to end up scratched anyway unless it's a shelf queen.
Still looks like a Beauty! your going to have fun running it.👍
Hi Steve. It will be a good runner I think 😊 My first Lunchie
i not painted a hard body in many years but i always used normal automotive paint and clear and often put the clear over the decals so they never peal off
Been a while for me too. I remember my first one. Painting was good (it was summer) but when I added the cheat coat in the end all details blurred. Some kind of reaction. Not used a clear coat since then 😅
Yeah, I've seen a lot of worse looking vans... And I've driven a few of them, too... I'm a huge perfectionist with painting, until I start actually painting, then I'm in a hurry and I ignore all those good advice and great plans I got, that's just how it is sometimes...
And like the others also commented, it'll get really messed up when you take it out and roll it in the dirt, ha ha!
Stiil a very pleasant and nice video as always, Mikael, I enjoyed it a lot!
Thank you Mads! I think I am the same. Especially with more and more limited hobby time (due to more and more kids) whenever I get the opportunity I need to hurry - and Durant think things through. And yeah, the most important thing is that it will run 😅😀😃
Used car primer and paint on mine from local petrol station had no issues got a nice finish .. metallic light blue .. Yours turned out ok it's gonna get scraps anyway unless you have one body for bashing and one for the shelf .
Hi Dark Storm! Sounds like a super idea. And yeah, it’s gonna get a lot of new scratches. I’m never able to keep a body for the shelf.
My lunchbox paint job did something similar and I primed it. Once you have barrel rolled it down a hill a few times you won’t worry about the paintwork and you will still be grinning from ear to ear 😁 Love the way it looks in the black. Great video as always 🙌🏻
Ha ha yeah, I hope to see it roll a lot - then I won't know which scratches are from the runs or from the paint job :-) I will have fun I think :-) Thank you for watching, my mate.
Looks good 👊🏻👍🏻
Thank you! Best I could do right now :-) Super excited to see it run.
ive found fine primer and sand wet in 1000 or 1200 and becomes smooth like glass but still absorbs the paint and heat up the can and the bodyshell as that helps so much and i can not say ive had a bad one yet all be it ive only done a few hardbody's but polly carb/lexan or hard body cleaned surface and heating up paint and surface being applied too are two of the most important procedures as well as waiting not just for the paint to dry but also to harden as if you spray too early between coats you will continue adding to the last coat and creating heavy paint in areas and that will cause flaking and so on in due course & down the track , being patient is key and real important for that high gloss pro looking finish as well as good lighting and heat and lastly light coats, best to have 8 light coats then 3 heavy rushed ones i hope this helps to all whom read and i can guarantee good results. 🙂
Hi Mag! Great tips! I will make sure to remember them next time I go painting ☺️
Thank you RC Elf! Oh, Mikael, you messed it up! :D No worries, training makes a master, i guess :)
yeah, long live the Elf :-) Ahh, yeah, I am happy. I live and learn and will have tons of fun with my Lunchie :-)
@@NordicRC Amazingly durable and extremely fun truck! You'll be enjoying it, i'm pretty sure! :)
I don't think I will ever become a master - but sometimes I learn from my mistakes (sometimes I forget them and repeat them) :-)
The RC elf gave me a lunch box Black edition.
Nice! A real generous Lunch Box Elf 😊
Looks great to me. Ive got the same colour lunchbox and you had me a little nervous at first but it's got big decals on the sides that cover most of the side so it's still going to be hard to see any imperfections on the paint surface. But I actually was and still am a little bit nervous because I've only painted Lexan body shells and this would be my first hard abs plastic body , since painting little 1/24 AMT and monogram and revell model kits. Actually they all came out beautifully. No problems what so ever. I never sanded them I only used to wash with a mild dish washing liquid and water then let them air-dry. They came out beautifully. But inadvertently, you have created a patina like finish that makes this look more genuine like areal ife lunch van that gets driven everyday. Did you realise? So in reality a car that actually gets driven in real life every day is not going look like a show car with perfect paint finish. 👍💪👌
Ha ha, yeah, that is a good and positive perspective. And yes, I find it much harder too with the hard bodies. Will definitely never sand them again if I'm not going to prime them and polish them along the way :-)
It still looks the part my friend and is not that bad of a job. I hope you are well? And will enjoy your lunchbox I’m going to get one I’ve been pondering 🤔 for ages and I’m going to pull the trigger and get the black edition, thanks for making my mind up. I’ll keep a look out for any more videos on it? In case you do a few mods? As I want to install the 5th shock…..so we’ll see? Take care 😎👍
I am very well, thank you. Hope you and yours are too. I read your other comment. Seems you already pulled the trigger 😊 Nice. Yeah more videos outdoors but weather isn’t great for filming right now. I think I will eventually install a transmission brace for this. Works better than the 5th shock and is a much easier mod. Ampro got some nice ones. Take care my buddy
Hi Mikael. Well I think we have all been there at some point. For me I seem to be getting worse at spraying the older I get, but the majority of the time no one notices when it's flying past the camera. Looking forward to seeing it in action. All the best and hope you and the family are keeping safe and healthy my friend.
Hi Rob! I feel the same a little. Just with a little different explanation. Getting worse and worse - with every new kid I have 😅 Less time for planning and having a thought about anything before I suddenly find myself with a spray can in the hand … Ohh, well, there are ups and downs with everything. I’m definitely looking forward seeing this one speed by without noticing the bad paint job. And well, all the details don’t matter anyway when having fun. Your black Lb looks great though. With the flames and everything if I remember correctly. Best to you and yours too my goof friend.
Watching Bro 👊🏻👍🏻
Nice, my good friend!
I think it looks pretty good Mikael! It will look pretty snappy running about too! It’s a great rc!
👍😊
Hi Jeremy! Yeah, it’s gonna be a great runner! Never tried one and looking forward to it 😊 Thanks a lot for watching and the support
Har du købt ophæng i metal til karroseri?
Tip:
Til at male håndtag osv. i sølv, bruger jeg en lille tusch "permanent marker" istedet for. De er supergode, og en i hvid til at male bogstaver på dæk!
Hi Benjamin. No, it’s all stock (apart from ball bearings). If I ever decide to go further, shocks and body posts would be a good way to start. Yeah, good tip with the permanent markers for details. Seen a lot of people do that. But just never tried it. I did try out the Tamiya paint pens (I sort of like the idea that it is all paint), but the tip was too big and the paint too uncontrollable.
Still looks good to me Mikael!!!! Nice to see someone use the Tamiya X clear paint over the chrome, It really brings out the depth of the "lenses". The body looks like a well used old van to me, as they should. Awesome job my friend!!!
Thank you Bob! ‘Tamiya X clear paint over the chrome’ … Did I do that? Maybe I misunderstand. And yeah, it will be a good runner that I’m not too afraid of bashing and rolling 😊
@@NordicRC Not sure if you did, but I seen the bottle and just assumed. LOL
Just used the chrome silver, for the window linings and door handles etc. 😊
You won't notice any of those blemishes, when it's running around, pulling wheelies and falling over!
Ah, yes... the falling over. Errm... expect lots of new blemishes!
Hi my mate! Ha ha, I expect you are right. I remember some fun videos with this one on your channel, if I am not mistaken 😅😀
@@NordicRC Indeed!
Super like,,,, 🤩👍
Thank you, Manufalket!
Maybe not your best paintjob, but it still looks good and will probably be scratched up after a few runs. All the decals and chrome parts makes it pop anyway. Nice video.
Yeah, soon it will get new scratches so I will hopefully forget about my dubious paint job and just enjoy running it 😊 And the chrome and decals sure do a good job at keeping the attention away from my paint job indeed 😅 Thanks a lot, Mattias.
Oh No, Mikael!!! Welcome to the club of "Messed-up Lunchbox Body Owners"!!! Oh well, it wasn't actually that bad, like mine, it will still look magnificent blasting around on the dirt and grass, as it was intended to! But I totally understand how you feel. I don't use primer, either, after a couple of hard bodies that I did prime had bad reactions to the top coat of gloss, for some strange reason. Anyway, the finished Lunchie looks lovely in black with the paint details and stickers applied and of course those chrome accessories. A very enjoyable video, as always, my mate! :O)
Ahh, yeah, I actually now remember you had some issues too, though I must admit I can't remember exactly what it was. What I remember the most is a video with your green one and Rob's black one blasting. So hopefully the legacy of my own and what I will remember when looking at mine - will be some enjoyable runs too - instead of a messed up paint job :-)
I've actually used primer on all my hard bodies previously. Both grey and white. This time I decided not too - and then I definitely should have used a much finer grit of sandpaper. But just grabbed what I had - and all I had P1500 and P600 and below. Next time I am not if I dare using any sandpaper :-)
Thank you for watching, my mate!
1. Wash and sand body, using soap and water and a fine sanding sponge, then use a super fine sanding sponge and soapy water.
2. Prime with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer
2a. Wet sand with super fine sanding sponge.
3. Apply base coat, black for dark colours, grey for neutral colours, white for bright colours.
3a. Wet sand with 800 grit.
4. Apply colour coat.
4a. Wet sand with 1000 grit.
5. Apply clear coat.
5a. Wet sand with 1200 grit.
6. Polish
7. Polish
8. POLISH!!!
Result is an automotive grade finish.
Uhh! That was a very helpful and detailed recipe! Great! Thank you so much. I think I will try something similar if I ever do a hard body (in the summer again) but will probably simplify step 4-8 if it is an off road runner. But could be fun to try out the whole step 1-8 one time with a shelf queen. Or just to try it as a challenging project ! 😊 Thanks again my bro.
I'm going to get oil filled dampers for mine too how much are they you think in the US dollars?
Quite expensive at my usual dealer I noticed a couple of weeks ago … 30+ something for a pair … I’m not really paying that for plastic CVA shocks - so will probably end up finding another option eventually 😊
Loving your videos. Do we get another christmas calender this year..?
Hi Tore! Thank you so much! I would love to, but with every kid I get there are less and less time for the hobby I am afraid.
Speak my friend, good night!
Between wltoys 124017, 124016, 144001, 959B and HBX destroyer, which do you recommend?
Hi Valdir. For me it must be the 144001. The destroyer is good too, but it needs additional oil filled shocks.
@@NordicRC where I live there is no asphalt, I need a strong and fast car, I'm between the destroyer and the wltoys 104009, Which one is the best?
We all makes mistakes with painting. But with plastics 600 too rough and no primer.
I make so many 😅 Yeah, never did a hard body without a primer before, but right now I learned how thin that regular paint really is 😉 I live and learn. All the time. Thanks a lot for watching, Mal.
Hiya Mikael. Hey looks good despite the rather rough sandpaper. I must say that when I saw the 600 grade I thought that you were going to use primer and then sand again. Anyway they all get scuffed to hell after a couple of runs. You did the detailing well. I only ever bother with the indicators. I really ought to do the window surrounds etc. Looks like you are going for the oil shocks at a later date. Does help a little with the bounce. Also have you still got the plastic body posts? They are the most fragile thing ever. Hope you have fun my friend. Hoorah for the RC Elf 😃
Hejsa Pete! Yeah, as long as there isn’t bright studio lights shining at it it just looks nice and black. If I ever get it out into the sunshine it will be interesting to see how it looks. He he, yeah, I don’t think I was thinking with the sanding. All the hard bodies I’ve done in the past has been with primer. So now I learned how thin that actual paint is compared to the primer. Yeah, looks great with the windows I think. Only problem is that the chrome silver paint is easy to scratch. But last time I used some Tamiya clear coating on it, it blurred out. Ohh well. I’ll have fun with it and hopefully learn from my mistakes here on my first ‘autumn-hard-body-paint-job-without-priming”. Learned two good lessons 😊 Ahh, yeah, if I like running it I will definitely look into the oil filled shocks. And yeah, seen a lot complain about the body posts breaking. There are some cheap and better nylon 3D prints on the market. Tamico got their own so I think I will try them out at some point. And yes! Hurrah (as we Danes say it) for the RC Elf !
I've seen and committed far worse atrocities with a spray can lol
Ha ha, yeah, it will be alright and soon get some real scratches from running 😅😀
It looks weathered.
cmon... don't be too hard on yourself. that's almost acceptable 😊
Ha ha, ‘almost acceptable’ … I like that 😅👍🏻
He did the same for me. Lol
You usually don't make these mistakes.
He he, I make mistakes all the time 😅 But yeah, the first hard body I ever did came out a lot nicer. So I’m getting worse and worse … wonder what it will end up with 😅