Steve been watching several of your videos and I find your narration delivery very relaxing and informative. Yes I would like to see your presentation of installing DCC into this model. Thanks for the teardown and the look under the hood!
Overland definitely made some well detailed models for sure!! I used to have an older MR where the author repowered his with Kato motors!! I'm looking forward to see what you do with it Steve!!!
Howdy Steve! Well now... I find these fascinating. Definitely looking forward to your video on adding the LEDs, decoder, and speakers! Might have to start keeping my eyes open for one or two brass engines. Thanks for sharing 🤠
Hey ,I love the Brass and those overland models are really awesome!!! I'm into the early CSX and the later part of the L&N they really had some great locos and living in Ky . between Louisville and Nashville .for 60 years I have seen a great variety of great locos and rolling stock over the years .. Love your channel and layout plus your tips an reviews !! Thanks again !!! And Happy Rails To you!!! Looking forward to seeing more !!
I had an extensive collection of brass at one time, had to sell it due to financial issues. If I hadn't had those issues, I'd still have them. The OMI diesels are pretty simple to work on, and I have done DCC in them. Albeit not all the way as you would, but still relatively simple. I'd recommend a 6 pc. set of Mascot screwdrivers, the shanks are long enough and small enough in diameter to get to those hard to reach spots.
I will definitely be grabbing a better screwdriver set. I had ones that would work better but haven’t used them in a few years and now can’t seem to find them. The challenging part will be adding all of the lighting as some places seem rather hard to access on these units.
I've just recently started collecting brass since I don't do DCC brass is fine. I've got 2 Hallmark diesels, one is a Fairbanks-Morse H12-44 in Central of Georgia livery and the other is a Baldwin VO-1000 in the Reading livery soon to be repainted for the Central of Georgia. I'd rather spend my $$ on brass as they will be here long after I'm gone. I've still got to wire the one for forward and reverse LED lighting but that ain't too hard as I've already done one of them. I can't see these modelers who spend thousands on plastic models (not gonna mention brands) that could have purchased a nice brass model. Oh well, to each his own. Cheers from eastern TN
Thank you! They definitely can be a hassle but I’m trying to look at it as more of a challenge. Only way to grow and get better is by pushing the limits on ones skill and knowledge!
I’ve acquired some Overland and a few Samhongsa brass models over the years, like you when I find them at great prices. There is something about the feel and heft of these hand-built creations. I mainly model SP but I did score an Overland C32-8 a few years ago from a German eBay store that was professionally weathered and it compliments my ScaleTrains C39-8’s very well. To my eye the main area where modern plastic has the edge is the fine air vent detail and the decals in some cases. Otherwise they are very close. I really enjoy your vids, keep up the great work!
A friend of mine uses pearl drops toothpaste on the gears to break them in, cleans out the gear box, and then applies lube - they run like Swiss watches and quiet.
Steve, the "decals" are actually pad printing which if you look at edge you'll see a little bit of bleeding into the blue. The number boards were left blank and you had to add your own decals. The motor is a Builer or a copy thereof, Athearn used the same motor in its original run Genesis models. I always found them, Overland, to be noisy models with not great pickups.
Interesting that the logos and pad printed on! The camera really didn’t pick it up well but it really looked like a decal, I appreciate the info on that! So far the motors have been fairly quiet and I would say similar to the Athearn Genesis ones. The power pickups are also a concern to me but I going to leave them be and hopefully the keep alive will be enough to solve that issue. If not ill have to come up with a better way to pick up power from the wheels.
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Steve been watching several of your videos and I find your narration delivery very relaxing and informative. Yes I would like to see your presentation of installing DCC into this model. Thanks for the teardown and the look under the hood!
Thank you very much!
Overland definitely made some
well detailed models for sure!! I used to have an older MR where the author repowered his with Kato motors!! I'm looking forward to see what you do with it Steve!!!
Howdy Steve! Well now... I find these fascinating. Definitely looking forward to your video on adding the LEDs, decoder, and speakers! Might have to start keeping my eyes open for one or two brass engines. Thanks for sharing 🤠
Thank you for watching! Hopefully I will be starting the build on these brass units next month provided I can get decoders for them.
Awesome Video! Wow you have a talent! Amazing work! Looks Great! Thanks for the lesson and for taking us along!
Thank you!
Hey ,I love the Brass and those overland models are really awesome!!! I'm into the early CSX and the later part of the L&N they really had some great locos and living in Ky . between Louisville and Nashville .for 60 years I have seen a great variety of great locos and rolling stock over the years ..
Love your channel and layout plus your tips an reviews !! Thanks again !!! And Happy Rails To you!!! Looking forward to seeing more !!
Thank you! Early CSX is probably my second favorite railroad era other the Conrail. A-lot of really neat patched power in those days!
I had an extensive collection of brass at one time, had to sell it due to financial issues. If I hadn't had those issues, I'd still have them.
The OMI diesels are pretty simple to work on, and I have done DCC in them. Albeit not all the way as you would, but still relatively simple.
I'd recommend a 6 pc. set of Mascot screwdrivers, the shanks are long enough and small enough in diameter to get to those hard to reach spots.
I will definitely be grabbing a better screwdriver set. I had ones that would work better but haven’t used them in a few years and now can’t seem to find them. The challenging part will be adding all of the lighting as some places seem rather hard to access on these units.
I've just recently started collecting brass since I don't do DCC brass is fine. I've got 2 Hallmark diesels, one is a Fairbanks-Morse H12-44 in Central of Georgia livery and the other is a Baldwin VO-1000 in the Reading livery soon to be repainted for the Central of Georgia. I'd rather spend my $$ on brass as they will be here long after I'm gone. I've still got to wire the one for forward and reverse LED lighting but that ain't too hard as I've already done one of them. I can't see these modelers who spend thousands on plastic models (not gonna mention brands) that could have purchased a nice brass model. Oh well, to each his own. Cheers from eastern TN
Brass really is something special especially since its all hand made stuff! If it was cheaper I would have a much larger collection of it.
Hi CR Steve & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks CR Steve & Friends & Randy
Thank you Randy!!
I have two Overland Conrail SD -50s
Very cool!
Nice video
Thank you!
This is really cool but idk man these seem like a such a hassle, anyway great vid CR Steve always look forward to the next
Thank you! They definitely can be a hassle but I’m trying to look at it as more of a challenge. Only way to grow and get better is by pushing the limits on ones skill and knowledge!
I’ve acquired some Overland and a few Samhongsa brass models over the years, like you when I find them at great prices. There is something about the feel and heft of these hand-built creations. I mainly model SP but I did score an Overland C32-8 a few years ago from a German eBay store that was professionally weathered and it compliments my ScaleTrains C39-8’s very well. To my eye the main area where modern plastic has the edge is the fine air vent detail and the decals in some cases. Otherwise they are very close. I really enjoy your vids, keep up the great work!
Thank you! They really do just have a certain feel to them that the plastic models lack.
The second box on the conductor's side is an Electrical Cabinet Air Filter Box (ECAFB), which started showing up on EMD's around 1968, I believe.
Thank you! I couldn’t for the life of me remember what that box was when I recorded this.
A friend of mine uses pearl drops toothpaste on the gears to break them in, cleans out the gear box, and then applies lube - they run like Swiss watches and quiet.
Ill have to give that a try! Thank you for the tip!
New subscriber Steve I’m a budding CR modeler myself but in N scale! Hope to gets some tips about CR prototype questions!
In my opinion brass steam engines are much better than anything you can buy even the bad one are fixable and will last forever.
The brass stream models are truly top notch and works of art!
Steve, the "decals" are actually pad printing which if you look at edge you'll see a little bit of bleeding into the blue. The number boards were left blank and you had to add your own decals. The motor is a Builer or a copy thereof, Athearn used the same motor in its original run Genesis models. I always found them, Overland, to be noisy models with not great pickups.
Interesting that the logos and pad printed on! The camera really didn’t pick it up well but it really looked like a decal, I appreciate the info on that! So far the motors have been fairly quiet and I would say similar to the Athearn Genesis ones. The power pickups are also a concern to me but I going to leave them be and hopefully the keep alive will be enough to solve that issue. If not ill have to come up with a better way to pick up power from the wheels.
wy not put it on dcc
I plan to add DCC and sound to it when I have the time and decoder to.
are you going to weather it
Yes after I add DCC/Sound and LED lights to it.