Though I checked this on my G0602 and it wasn't my issue, it had me looking around as to why I had a gap between my ways/sliding surfaces. Ended up my GIB was too tall. The tighter my gib, the more lift I was getting. So thank you for giving me the motivation to go looking!
My combo lathe mill G9729 was the same way on the cross slide. I could either mill off the needed amount on the underside of the cross slide or shim the ways about .010". Since I needed to finish some pieces fast, I chose the latter but, I then had to adjust the travel of the dovetail adjusting wedge by re notching it since it now needed about 3/4" less travel into the dovetail. I'll be filing off around .015" like you did to eliminate the shims for future use of the machine.
Gee, now I have something else to worry about and check.:) Now I have an excuse the take the cross slide assembly apart which I have never done since a got the lathe last summer. It was used at that time so it is probably a good idea to take a look. Great video and explanation of you filing technique.
I think I have a similar issue with my G0602 as well. I notice when I loosen the top compound the crosslide is very hard to move it become stuck which seems kind of weird. I have just been lazy on checking why that is so. Instead of hand filing I will most likely scrape both the top ways and bottom dovetail ways. Thanks for showing this it was very helpful.
Impressive. With the measuring method you used it is clear these machines are really poor in terms of bearing surfaces. I mean, the ways seem nicely done and ground, all other surfaces you don't see are crap. I'm getting one of these this year, I know that before using it I should disassemble it, de-burr, stone, and clean. I know people who found grinding grit stuck inside the saddle and the cross slide. Looks like people in the factory assemble these things still hot from the grinder and don't clean up the grinding dust until it is assembled. No question why some complain these machines wear so fast with all the bad surfaces and dirt in them.
Yes, you do need to disassemble, inspect and & clean/deburr as necessary. In this particular case the surface on the saddle which I filed is not supposed to touch the cross slide; the fact that it did caused the height of the cross slide to change slightly as it moved across the saddle, and reduced the stiffness of the setup. Stuff like this is not all that noticeable unless you are cutting a wide chip (like parting off), or turning hardened steel. Good luck with your future acquisition!
I think James’ issue was same as mine, it wasn’t riding on top of the dove tails, the gib was too tall vertically so the tighter you made the gib, the more it pushed upwards on the right side of the cross side. Loosen it and it would then sit flat on the slide. Crazy simple fix…
Thanks for the tip! Was concerned about your keeping square on the top of the dovetails, but then realized it didn't matter. On another note, I've been researching my way from the G0765 up to the G0602Z. Any tips for the newbie DIY machinist first time purchase? To DRO or not to DRO, that is another question! Is it worth the extra money?
DIY machinists usually can't afford a lathe which will perform "like it supposed to" in every way, especially on harder materials like stainless steel or hardened carbon steels. As far a choosing between the G0765 and G0602, it's all down to what size parts you will be turning. For smaller parts, small lathes are a better choice for price and convenience. If unsure, buy the bigger lathe. I don't use DRO myself, but may people find it useful and convenient. Best of luck!
I just bought the king canada version of this lathe. I measure off ten turns on the cross slide wheel, which should be 1000 thou. Instead I'm reading .680. Same with tailstock. Compound Comes in at .480 for 10 turns. I'm very confused how it could be so far off. Are your dials accurate to 100 thou per full revolution? Thanks
Unlike most imperial lathes, the Grizzly dials are marked .060" per revolution. This makes the dials easier to read; however, careful measurement of displacement after 10 revolutions shows only .590" of travel. A little investigation reveals that the lead screw pitch for the cross slide and tailstock is actually 1.5mm, a common setting found any lathe which can cut metric threads. This makes sense when you consider that the reciprocal of .060 [that is: threads/inch] is an irrational number (16.6666666666...). You certainly won't find that setting on any imperial lathe!
@@bf19881988 looking at the measurements you reported for 10 turns, .680" is near to 1.75mm pitch [would be .689" exactly], and .480" is near to 1.25mm pitch [would be .492" exactly]. Are your measurements accurate to .001", and did you take care to omit backlash in the measurement? If a lead screw has a pitch of 1.75mm, then a single graduation on 100 tick the dial would be .0175mm, or .0007" . Neither of those are useful increments, so maybe your lathe is equipped with the wrong lead screw + dial combinations?
Hi Jeremy, My lathe is about 5 years old, but the defect was from the factory. The problems manifest as causing inconsistent resistance to travel in the cross slide and less stiffness resulting in greater likelihood of chatter. It's worth checking your lathe with a marking pen.
Though I checked this on my G0602 and it wasn't my issue, it had me looking around as to why I had a gap between my ways/sliding surfaces. Ended up my GIB was too tall. The tighter my gib, the more lift I was getting. So thank you for giving me the motivation to go looking!
Glad you found your problem, and it sounds like an easy fix. Happy turning!
My combo lathe mill G9729 was the same way on the cross slide. I could either mill off the needed amount on the underside of the cross slide or shim the ways about .010". Since I needed to finish some pieces fast, I chose the latter but, I then had to adjust the travel of the dovetail adjusting wedge by re notching it since it now needed about 3/4" less travel into the dovetail. I'll be filing off around .015" like you did to eliminate the shims for future use of the machine.
Gee, now I have something else to worry about and check.:) Now I have an excuse the take the cross slide assembly apart which I have never done since a got the lathe last summer. It was used at that time so it is probably a good idea to take a look. Great video and explanation of you filing technique.
Thanks for the tip, I'm sure mine will need this. Now I have a project for christmas break.
Best of luck, and happy turning!
I think I have a similar issue with my G0602 as well. I notice when I loosen the top compound the crosslide is very hard to move it become stuck which seems kind of weird. I have just been lazy on checking why that is so. Instead of hand filing I will most likely scrape both the top ways and bottom dovetail ways. Thanks for showing this it was very helpful.
Impressive. With the measuring method you used it is clear these machines are really poor in terms of bearing surfaces. I mean, the ways seem nicely done and ground, all other surfaces you don't see are crap. I'm getting one of these this year, I know that before using it I should disassemble it, de-burr, stone, and clean. I know people who found grinding grit stuck inside the saddle and the cross slide. Looks like people in the factory assemble these things still hot from the grinder and don't clean up the grinding dust until it is assembled. No question why some complain these machines wear so fast with all the bad surfaces and dirt in them.
Yes, you do need to disassemble, inspect and & clean/deburr as necessary. In this particular case the surface on the saddle which I filed is not supposed to touch the cross slide; the fact that it did caused the height of the cross slide to change slightly as it moved across the saddle, and reduced the stiffness of the setup. Stuff like this is not all that noticeable unless you are cutting a wide chip (like parting off), or turning hardened steel. Good luck with your future acquisition!
I think James’ issue was same as mine, it wasn’t riding on top of the dove tails, the gib was too tall vertically so the tighter you made the gib, the more it pushed upwards on the right side of the cross side. Loosen it and it would then sit flat on the slide. Crazy simple fix…
Thanks for the tip! Was concerned about your keeping square on the top of the dovetails, but then realized it didn't matter.
On another note, I've been researching my way from the G0765 up to the G0602Z. Any tips for the newbie DIY machinist first time purchase? To DRO or not to DRO, that is another question! Is it worth the extra money?
DIY machinists usually can't afford a lathe which will perform "like it supposed to" in every way, especially on harder materials like stainless steel or hardened carbon steels. As far a choosing between the G0765 and G0602, it's all down to what size parts you will be turning. For smaller parts, small lathes are a better choice for price and convenience. If unsure, buy the bigger lathe.
I don't use DRO myself, but may people find it useful and convenient. Best of luck!
yes get a DRO.
I just bought the king canada version of this lathe. I measure off ten turns on the cross slide wheel, which should be 1000 thou. Instead I'm reading .680. Same with tailstock. Compound Comes in at .480 for 10 turns. I'm very confused how it could be so far off.
Are your dials accurate to 100 thou per full revolution?
Thanks
Unlike most imperial lathes, the Grizzly dials are marked .060" per revolution. This makes the dials easier to read; however, careful measurement of displacement after 10 revolutions shows only .590" of travel. A little investigation reveals that the lead screw pitch for the cross slide and tailstock is actually 1.5mm, a common setting found any lathe which can cut metric threads.
This makes sense when you consider that the reciprocal of .060 [that is: threads/inch] is an irrational number (16.6666666666...). You certainly won't find that setting on any imperial lathe!
@5tr41ghtGuy thank you for the reply. This king version is marked .001 per tick. No mention of this in the king literature hence my confusion.
@@bf19881988 looking at the measurements you reported for 10 turns, .680" is near to 1.75mm pitch [would be .689" exactly], and .480" is near to 1.25mm pitch [would be .492" exactly]. Are your measurements accurate to .001", and did you take care to omit backlash in the measurement?
If a lead screw has a pitch of 1.75mm, then a single graduation on 100 tick the dial would be .0175mm, or .0007" . Neither of those are useful increments, so maybe your lathe is equipped with the wrong lead screw + dial combinations?
Ah crap, now I have to go take mine apart to check 😁
May I ask is there a gib/ adjustment?
Yes, in the form of three grub screws with lock nuts exposed on the right side of the cross slide.
Why do all the measuring? Why not just file the tops until nothing touches?
Measuring tells me how much I need to file, and where. Ultimately the cross slide must not touch, thus the final check.
Why dont you use a tail of your calipers to measure the depth? Instead you used the head?? 2:56 ?? never seen this technique
You can do it either way, but usually the tail is used to measure the depth of a hole.
That's interesting. What issues does that cause? Just chatter problems? How old is your lathe? I probably need to check mine.
Hi Jeremy,
My lathe is about 5 years old, but the defect was from the factory. The problems manifest as causing inconsistent resistance to travel in the cross slide and less stiffness resulting in greater likelihood of chatter. It's worth checking your lathe with a marking pen.
👍
You didn't have the gib problem as well then?
I checked with a feeler gauge, and my lathe didn't have the gib issue.