My car was out of commission for ... more time than was comfortable. So in order to get around town to do basics like small to average sized grocery loads a friend of mine lent me his Huffy exactly like the one in this video. My friend had previously lent the bike to another friend who's son was the main rider so I am not sure who assembled the bike. What I do know is that whoever did put the thing together may very well have done it blindfolded. I say this because when I got on that bike to give it a test spin around the block it felt like the most rickety poorly constructed piece of junk a person could have the misfortune of buying. But after watching this video I get the feeling that if I were to tear the bike apart piece by piece and then carefully re-assemble it so that it felt solid like it should, the feeling of impending doom I get with its current construction may very well disappear. This video has been very encouraging to me because even though the bike is not mine I hate to see someone buy something that is a poor excuse for whatever it is when there are much better versions out there for the same price. And my guess now is that even though this bike may not be the top of the line model, I should be able to increase its sturdiness substantially by simply taking the time to re-assemble it correctly. Thumbs up to you and your video :-)
Walmart type of bikes like huffys you have to go over everything because there poorly put together but if you tighten and lube everything on a once over you’ll be good
I'm pretty sure the engine design is an old russian model. So i'm told. Its developed a bit since the old potmetal versions. Still a great way to go around for fun!
That old pipe and the same bike brings back memories 😂 love my bike but considering buying a whole new frame and kit. I've run this thing into the ground 😂 nice video!
Technically, the clutch hand lever should have a slight amount of "free play", as should the lever arm on the case. That skinny spring between the cable jacket stay and clutch arm then keeps the arm from rattling around as you ride. The free play is there to compensate for the parts expanding when warm, so you aren't "slipping the clutch" after a half hour ride in summer. Not a biggy to omit it, but it does actually serve a purpose by design. On a cold engine, the outer end of the clutch arm should swing about a sixteenth to eighth inch before all the parts "butt up and push", and the hand lever should have about a matchbook cover thickness "gap" between the front of the lever and it's pivot bracket that mounts to the bars before feeling "take up". Just a little slack in everything is plenty
for you that prefer the cheaper 2 stroke motors, got some tips: because of how 2 stroke engines use the fuel/oil mix to lube, much of it burns off but still leaves some residue, most oil additives are designed for 4 stroke motors, using oil additives in 2 strokes can not only REDUCE the efficiency of the fuel burning off, but the residues themselves actually increase the need for regular maintenance more frequently and CAUSE long term damage and reduction of engine life, and believe it or not, using full or blend synthetic oils in the fuel/oil also REDUCE fuel efficiency because of the higher resistance to high heat and ignition, a strait up proprietary, pure 2-stroke oil and shell premium with nitrogen is best. also, do not use fuel additives that add octane, on small 2 stroke engines they serve no purpose, the compression is not sufficient enough to be of any benefit. DO NOT use fuel additives that have lots of detergents, except when doing breakdown maintenance, the engine relies heavily on the oil residue to lubricate and detergent additives in oils break down that function causing increased wear and tear, increasing the frequency of maintenance and reducing engine life. if you insist on using a supplemented oil (an oil with additives) or oil additives anyway, NEVER, EVER, EVER use ones that have or add metallic and/or flammable substances such as zinc and phosphorus, these are optimized for 4 stroke engines, because 2 stoke engines burn off the oils, the metallic additives create deposits that actually damage the piston walls and rings, further increasing the need for breakdown maintenance and reducing engine life, as for flammable additives such as phosphorus and sulphates, these burning off in the engine create acids and cause severe corrosion in these smaller engines especially. keep your oils and fuels as pure as possible and it will help greatly when you intend on storing your bike for more than 60 days, empty the fuel tank and add a fuel stabilizer but NO oil, when you decide to go and ride again, add the requisite amount of oil, then idle the engine for 10 minutes, shut down for 30-45+ minutes for cool down, then go and have fun try and remember, "2 stroke" & "4 stroke" are NOT numbers, they are completely different types of engines, and need to be treated as such. I do recommend an oil additive called 'nanolub csx', but NOT for mixing in the fuel, it makes an AWSOME lubricant for external moving parts on the engine and bicycle and chain, may your bikes "Live Long & Prosper"
not destroyed, but after the second disassembly breakdown and a total of $73 in replacement parts, I started putting 2 & 2 together, spent a lot of time on google and the local lawnmower/weedeater/chainsaw repairman and am now sharing what i learned
I use 91 octane Shell(closest gas station), with full 2 stroke synthetic oil mixed with Lucas Top Cylinder Lubricant + Carb cleaner, switching soon to all Lucas oil soon. But the motor has reduced almost 70% vibrations since adding the Lucas Additives, and it added 4mph since I was four stroking at 5,000 miles, currently at 6,000miles on the motor. Was running 26-27mph four stroking now it's 2 stroking at 33mph tops, all stock parts no mods but a 36t sprocket. That Lucas oil is great, will be trying Castrol/Maxima next on a newer motor see difference in oils, I trust both oils.
Good videos a common on the fender just pointing out there what I did was filed down the area is nearest to the chain till I felt I had a significant amount of clearance.I thought about cutting it off the same way you had but did not want to lose the protection which the fender offers from water and dirt being directly thrown onto my motor from my back wheel
Great tips. Also buy a set of rims made for these. It has a disc brake gear and a spot for a pedal cog ready to go. Saves you from messing with that pos rag sprocket. And saves you from slipping chains.
@@VenomCruster ghetto bikes makes great thick 10gage spoke wheels that are disc brake equipped, And on your clutch mechanism use grease not oil, on a once every other month basis or depending on how much you ride. That little spring helps push/return cable, I believe it's important, I've built several of these for the past 12yrs.and get rid of your Killswitch and your chain tensioner, They're both useless, infact more harm than good. 🙏✌️
@@VenomCruster It's been an understandable proven fact that the "Killswitch" causes the wire from the magneto to short out at it's weakest point from getting hot when you hit the button causing a short/ground and after doing so over n over it becomes thin, burnt, weak & failure. The best way to kill an engine is choke and let out the clutch with your brake on. That's also a scientific proven fact.
The little spring/with a little slack in the cable is men't to take the pressure off the ball bearing that pushes against the clutch to stop it from flat siding and wear. Or not up to your preference on build.
The NELL LUSSO was my first build also... very nice looking bike... BECAREFUL tho... keep an eye on the welds ( rear rack) that meet the frame...I felt a high frequency vibration at 30mph... I checked but couldn't find the crack...the next day I felt the bike really loose on the turns... when I checked again I found both sides of the frame sheared off as if someone used a hacksaw...you may want to brace that part of the frame
It's a very sturdy bike frame, installed a triple tree fork with Mag wheels w/disc brake. The Foundation of the GasBike is the Frame after all it needs to hold up.
@@eduardodiaz5762 A lot better than my $100 dollar Chinese Huffy no doubt. That thing scared me because the bike would do 40MPH. It didn't feel too bad but the though of it being that cheap always scared me. If I ever build another one it will be based on a decent quality mountain bike frame, although I think I am going to build a small boat first. My wife is just going to love that lol.
@@Jarrod_D thanks sadly that engine only lasted around 8,823 miles with speedometer, this engine was not babied and it was ripped hard from day 1. Second engine lasted 8,065 but it was babied from day 1. This third engine I have on the a new bike frame as the old one had an 7x accidents on engine 2. But it’s still the same bike style frame (old 830, New 820 Trek) chromoly bike frames are the best! Third engine is on 2,000miles or so sitting in storage.
Thanks for your comment. I hope the guy I sold it to is keeping up on this thread. Lots of great advice, of course people also have pointed out my screw-ups to him :-)
yank that fender. ive heard some really bad stories about them rattling loose and jamming in tires. i usually never use them. if i do, i replace all hardware to grade 8 and locktite all . i do love these bikes. build a few dozen and always learning something new~ feel free to check out my channel.
You mounted the throttle control on the wrong side of the handle bars, it needs to be rotated 180 degrees so that the throttle cable is facing away from you, not towards you. Similar to how the cable is for the clutch cable. This will also make the Killswitch more accessible.
Thanks, I corrected that shortly after making this video and before selling the thing. Had a lot of fun doing it and will probably make another one this year. Thanks for looking.
lol I got cut off today at 20mph and smashed in to the rear quarter panel of the car. Not cool, but I would have needed an ejection seat to avoid that. That was with disc brakes, too. Some jackasses...
If you get a heavy duty gas bike wheel it wont happen ... Have a brand new one still in the box 36 spoke 12gauge 26 x 2.125 rim if your looking to buy one ... Just saying ... It's a bbr brand ... I have its twin on my Nell Russo ... Best move I have made ... other than the sprocket adapter
It does look really cool but vibrated a bit too much when it went over 30. If I ever build another one, I'm going to build it on a quality mountain bike frame.
Dear sir I bought mine already complete seems like it was a good build but I’m wondering where can I find a tool kit for just the The motor to make adjustments and does that exist thank you for your time
All you really need is a 10 mm (ratcheting) wrench, some Allen wrenches and a Phillips head screw driver. I assembled my whole motor with just those 3 tools
Take off the fenders! Or learn the hard way LOL Seriously! I tried it even with old ass 10 ga ones. They could pretty much take a 9mm they where so thick lol still failed over time from vibration! The plastic ones will fold up in the tire and kill you. The metal ones will split around the bolts from vibration over time. Mine lasted a while and then bit the dust. Tried everything you could think off to kill the vibration or dampen it and still failed! th-cam.com/video/ljagB9WCcZY/w-d-xo.html when the front gave up the ghost mid ride on me, I got lucky it didn't flip into my tire like most have happen!
Mark Stricklett , thank you. The only issue I had if I remember correctly was, I had to clamp it down pretty good because it did move around a bit if my knees hit it.
I had vibrations, but I just attributed that to the cheap Chinese engine. I don't know if I would call it a problem but it was like riding a very fast two-wheeled lawn mower.
The most American kits are from Zeda, they have the most powerful kits, and the most reliable ones too. They still use Chinese parts tho, but if you want to get up to 70 mph, that's your best bet. But they are also the most expensive, their best engines go for 700+ dollars, and they only make 80cc motors, cheapest kit is still around 200 bucks if you have them port it which I don't know why you wouldn't considering performance and reliability would be the only reason you're buying from them. They are also the makers of most of the case reed valve kits that are made, which I've found to be the most reliable, however, they start out at nearly 400 bucks on their page.
unfortunately Zeda Mafia only makes those as 2 stroke, they would have a greater customer base if they offered 4 strokes, there are so many that want to do this, but dirty fuel mixing, smellier, noisier and frequent breakdown maintenance is a major turn off, most don't worry so much about customization capabilities as ease of use, I can't blame, I sell 4 stroke 79cc pre-assembled (with the bike) and full proper breakin for $600, they don't have to do anything but pick it up, no other companies do what I do, you can get a 49cc 2 stroke bike assembled for $800, others just go up from there, but you still have to do some setup and always breakin, I make my money on numbers not high prices, so I have a lot of people coming to me, but most (80%) can't change a spark plug on a lawnmower, much less regular maintenance on a 2stroke engine, they need to pander to greater numbers, because Zeda charging so much is forcing too many people over to ebikes, then they realize ebikes are too much for too little and just give up on all motorized bicycles, e or g
Phob, I've done over 130 2 stroke builds for another company I worked for and god knows how many repairs and maintenance, when we say "breakdown maintenance", in my line of work, it is a partial or complete disassembly for maintenance, so calm yourself
2 strokes aren't smellier, you have scented 2 stroke oil, it smells better, and even then I think the scent of 2 strokes are good by default. Noiser, you can get a muffler, and even then they aren't really noiser, they are just higher pitched. Breakdowns are uncommon unless you got the cheapest kit you could possibly find, it took me around 1000 miles doing like 3-4 hour commutes to even get a single actual problem with a cheap, 150 dollar kit, which wasn't even due to my commutes, it was due to a rotten oil that Autozone sold me, it had curds on the bottom and smelled like guano, and at first I didn't notice, but then when the engine started chirping and making weird noises, I checked the oil and realized it was bad. Also, oil mixing is the most misunderstood thing in this community, everyone thinks you need to have a specific ratio, no, you go based on what the oil says to run, if it says to run between 32:1 and 50:1, that's the range you should be running it in, because they test those oils based on lubricity, and they found that the lubricity between the 2 ratios have enough lubricity to run a standard 2 stroke, if it says to run it between 50:1 and 100:1, run it between that, because your oil is what matters because that's what controls your lubricity, not your engine. The reason engine manuals say to run a certain ratio is that typically they are referencing a certain oil, and I know this from dirtbikes because literally in the manual they put a ratio, and then their oil that they make right next to it. That's where the misconception probably started, as its where it started for most dirt-bike beginners, it probably started with the original manufacturer of these shitty Chinese 2 strokes that probably also made oil, or were in partnership with someone that does. I personally use Amsoil saber, and run 80:1, I haven't had issues running that ratio at all. Just go through the break in with a normal oil and run 32:1 or 20:1 even just to get the burrs out, which usually actually happens within 10-15 minutes of running it on that ratio from my experience. Also, zeda doesn't charge too much, they make everything to order and sell high-performance engines made by them. If it was a factory in China making these motors I'd understand, but it's not, its a couple guys cutting out stuff and putting things together in a shop, and also cramming 8+ horsepower into a tiny 2 stroke motor without any mass production to do such things. it makes sense. You think the 50cc engine that set a land speed record cost 100 bucks? no, it probably cost upwards of 800-900 dollars.
Just out of curiosity, why did you upgrade to basic sidepull brakes when you could have gone with dual pivot? It's the same mount, around the same price and dual pivot has better stopping power..
MrCommentator, the brakes in the video I never put on. The reason I bought them was because it was all the little bike shop down the road had and they sold them to me for 15 bucks. What a deal :-). I am waiting for new beach cruiser brakes which I believe are dual pivot to come from Amazon on Tuesday. I am probably going to sell this bike but if I should decide to keep it, I may try to swap out the fork for a cheap mountain bike Fork with a shock and disk brakes.
I am expecting a pair of brakes advertised as beach cruiser bike brakes to be delivered today from Amazon. They got good reviews and hopefully they will work.
MCE Performance, the one in the video would do about 35 to 40, faster than I wanted to go. this was my first build and I discovered there are all sorts of ways to make these things go faster. personally, if I was to do it again, I would put a larger sprocket on the back so top-end would not be as fast but I could go up hills with more torque.
for not only safety purposes, but also the life of the engine, I recommend NOT going over 30 for more than a half an hour at a time, these engines are air cooled, but at higher speeds, the frame and your legs actually reduce the effective air flow, the engine will overheat quickly, back it off to 20mphor less for at least 10 minutes, my father is installing a scoop on mine when I get the new one, but it's not so I can go higher speeds, it's so I can cool more efficiently at 30mph for longer
Music sounds like it belongs in a 1970s porn flick, instead of an educational/ informative video. Nice bike though. There should be more of this type of content on YT.
My car was out of commission for ... more time than was comfortable. So in order to get around town to do basics like small to average sized grocery loads a friend of mine lent me his Huffy exactly like the one in this video. My friend had previously lent the bike to another friend who's son was the main rider so I am not sure who assembled the bike. What I do know is that whoever did put the thing together may very well have done it blindfolded. I say this because when I got on that bike to give it a test spin around the block it felt like the most rickety poorly constructed piece of junk a person could have the misfortune of buying. But after watching this video I get the feeling that if I were to tear the bike apart piece by piece and then carefully re-assemble it so that it felt solid like it should, the feeling of impending doom I get with its current construction may very well disappear. This video has been very encouraging to me because even though the bike is not mine I hate to see someone buy something that is a poor excuse for whatever it is when there are much better versions out there for the same price. And my guess now is that even though this bike may not be the top of the line model, I should be able to increase its sturdiness substantially by simply taking the time to re-assemble it correctly. Thumbs up to you and your video :-)
Walmart type of bikes like huffys you have to go over everything because there poorly put together but if you tighten and lube everything on a once over you’ll be good
We had such bikes during Soviet Union time. It was the cheapest way of transportation in villages. It was possible to put a motor on any type of bike.
I'm pretty sure the engine design is an old russian model. So i'm told. Its developed a bit since the old potmetal versions. Still a great way to go around for fun!
Russia does not produce anything anymore
İts called D-4 engine with other engines D-5, D-6
Thanx! My kit came TODAY! A week early! Now I need to find a bicycle. A friend gave me an old one, but I may get a new one.
I like the four stroke engine kits better. That is a very impressive looking bike for Walmart. I like it.
Looks cool but it scared me going 40mph. I'd put the kit on a quality used mountain bike if I were to build another one.
That old pipe and the same bike brings back memories 😂 love my bike but considering buying a whole new frame and kit. I've run this thing into the ground 😂 nice video!
It's maybe due to the fact that these bikes frames are flimsy aluminum, I'd go platinum frame or the cheaper Chromium steel frames.
Technically, the clutch hand lever should have a slight amount of "free play", as should the lever arm on the case. That skinny spring between the cable jacket stay and clutch arm then keeps the arm from rattling around as you ride. The free play is there to compensate for the parts expanding when warm, so you aren't "slipping the clutch" after a half hour ride in summer. Not a biggy to omit it, but it does actually serve a purpose by design. On a cold engine, the outer end of the clutch arm should swing about a sixteenth to eighth inch before all the parts "butt up and push", and the hand lever should have about a matchbook cover thickness "gap" between the front of the lever and it's pivot bracket that mounts to the bars before feeling "take up". Just a little slack in everything is plenty
I took the baffle out of the exhaust once I finished my break in and noticed great increases in power
Do you still have it 🚴♂️💨💨 or how long did it last 🤔 if you don't mind me asking.
@@Jarrod_D not anymore haha, shouldn’t really hurt the engine, but worst case scenario you just spend 80 bucks for a new one
for you that prefer the cheaper 2 stroke motors, got some tips:
because of how 2 stroke engines use the fuel/oil mix to lube, much of it burns off but still leaves some residue, most oil additives are designed for 4 stroke motors, using oil additives in 2 strokes can not only REDUCE the efficiency of the fuel burning off, but the residues themselves actually increase the need for regular maintenance more frequently and CAUSE long term damage and reduction of engine life, and believe it or not, using full or blend synthetic oils in the fuel/oil also REDUCE fuel efficiency because of the higher resistance to high heat and ignition, a strait up proprietary, pure 2-stroke oil and shell premium with nitrogen is best.
also, do not use fuel additives that add octane, on small 2 stroke engines they serve no purpose, the compression is not sufficient enough to be of any benefit.
DO NOT use fuel additives that have lots of detergents, except when doing breakdown maintenance, the engine relies heavily on the oil residue to lubricate and detergent additives in oils break down that function causing increased wear and tear, increasing the frequency of maintenance and reducing engine life.
if you insist on using a supplemented oil (an oil with additives) or oil additives anyway, NEVER, EVER, EVER use ones that have or add metallic and/or flammable substances such as zinc and phosphorus, these are optimized for 4 stroke engines, because 2 stoke engines burn off the oils, the metallic additives create deposits that actually damage the piston walls and rings, further increasing the need for breakdown maintenance and reducing engine life, as for flammable additives such as phosphorus and sulphates, these burning off in the engine create acids and cause severe corrosion in these smaller engines especially.
keep your oils and fuels as pure as possible and it will help greatly
when you intend on storing your bike for more than 60 days, empty the fuel tank and add a fuel stabilizer but NO oil, when you decide to go and ride again, add the requisite amount of oil, then idle the engine for 10 minutes, shut down for 30-45+ minutes for cool down, then go and have fun
try and remember, "2 stroke" & "4 stroke" are NOT numbers, they are completely different types of engines, and need to be treated as such.
I do recommend an oil additive called 'nanolub csx', but NOT for mixing in the fuel, it makes an AWSOME lubricant for external moving parts on the engine and bicycle and chain, may your bikes "Live Long & Prosper"
You destroyed an engine didn't you? XD
not destroyed, but after the second disassembly breakdown and a total of $73 in replacement parts, I started putting 2 & 2 together, spent a lot of time on google and the local lawnmower/weedeater/chainsaw repairman and am now sharing what i learned
I use 91 octane Shell(closest gas station), with full 2 stroke synthetic oil mixed with Lucas Top Cylinder Lubricant + Carb cleaner, switching soon to all Lucas oil soon. But the motor has reduced almost 70% vibrations since adding the Lucas Additives, and it added 4mph since I was four stroking at 5,000 miles, currently at 6,000miles on the motor. Was running 26-27mph four stroking now it's 2 stroking at 33mph tops, all stock parts no mods but a 36t sprocket. That Lucas oil is great, will be trying Castrol/Maxima next on a newer motor see difference in oils, I trust both oils.
Thanx.
Good videos a common on the fender just pointing out there what I did was filed down the area is nearest to the chain till I felt I had a significant amount of clearance.I thought about cutting it off the same way you had but did not want to lose the protection which the fender offers from water and dirt being directly thrown onto my motor from my back wheel
Is it still running 🚴♂️💨💨 or how long did it last if you don't mind me asking 🤔
Great tips. Also buy a set of rims made for these. It has a disc brake gear and a spot for a pedal cog ready to go. Saves you from messing with that pos rag sprocket. And saves you from slipping chains.
Can you show photos?
@@VenomCruster ghetto bikes makes great thick 10gage spoke wheels that are disc brake equipped, And on your clutch mechanism use grease not oil, on a once every other month basis or depending on how much you ride. That little spring helps push/return cable, I believe it's important, I've built several of these for the past 12yrs.and get rid of your Killswitch and your chain tensioner, They're both useless, infact more harm than good. 🙏✌️
@@VenomCruster how can you show photos here?
@@m.kasper7646 by giving a website link to the photos, also why is a killswitch bad
@@VenomCruster It's been an understandable proven fact that the "Killswitch" causes the wire from the magneto to short out at it's weakest point from getting hot when you hit the button causing a short/ground and after doing so over n over it becomes thin, burnt, weak & failure. The best way to kill an engine is choke and let out the clutch with your brake on. That's also a scientific proven fact.
very cool! a buddy of mine down in Florida has an electric version, that thing goes pretty fast! 👍
The little spring/with a little slack in the cable is men't to take the pressure off the ball bearing that pushes against the clutch to stop it from flat siding and wear. Or not up to your preference on build.
Trim the clutch cable just long enough that will reduce the pull strenth by 50-80 percent
Well done, want to build a motorized bike and your tips will save me making the same mistakes. Thanks.
Did you build one 🤔? Did it work
grease your cables before installing and moving parts...GREASE is your other friend
Dont forget loctite!
The NELL LUSSO was my first build also... very nice looking bike... BECAREFUL tho... keep an eye on the welds ( rear rack) that meet the frame...I felt a high frequency vibration at 30mph... I checked but couldn't find the crack...the next day I felt the bike really loose on the turns... when I checked again I found both sides of the frame sheared off as if someone used a hacksaw...you may want to brace that part of the frame
WOW
I was thinking about getting the Nel Lusso. Idk. I'll check out my friend's old Huffy, also.
I have a Trek 830 Chromium Steel frame with a 66cc 2 stroke Chinagirl HT, it has around 6,000 miles on the motor.
Wow, that's pretty good. This one would not have lasted that long.
It's a very sturdy bike frame, installed a triple tree fork with Mag wheels w/disc brake. The Foundation of the GasBike is the Frame after all it needs to hold up.
@@eduardodiaz5762 A lot better than my $100 dollar Chinese Huffy no doubt. That thing scared me because the bike would do 40MPH. It didn't feel too bad but the though of it being that cheap always scared me. If I ever build another one it will be based on a decent quality mountain bike frame, although I think I am going to build a small boat first. My wife is just going to love that lol.
6000 miles is pretty impressive 👌
@@Jarrod_D thanks sadly that engine only lasted around 8,823 miles with speedometer, this engine was not babied and it was ripped hard from day 1.
Second engine lasted 8,065 but it was babied from day 1. This third engine I have on the a new bike frame as the old one had an 7x accidents on engine 2. But it’s still the same bike style frame (old 830, New 820 Trek) chromoly bike frames are the best!
Third engine is on 2,000miles or so sitting in storage.
Ditch the rag joint get 3 point Hub adaptor.
Thanks for your comment. I hope the guy I sold it to is keeping up on this thread. Lots of great advice, of course people also have pointed out my screw-ups to him :-)
the sprocket is suposed to be the other side to the outside.
That will make lika a 0,5 cm more space from the tyre.
Was waiting for a 1980s porn to start playing with the music choice at the end LOL
Lol, it really does sound like 70s porn music... From what I have been told LOL
yank that fender. ive heard some really bad stories about them rattling loose and jamming in tires. i usually never use them. if i do, i replace all hardware to grade 8 and locktite all .
i do love these bikes. build a few dozen and always learning something new~ feel free to check out my channel.
Lol doin 40+ with fenders. Sure is nice not having mud water spraying my butt. Just reinforce fenders with better hardware and loctite+lock washers.
I was thinking of getting a high fender like a dirt bike, to go on my mountain bike. I think it will be safer and cooler looking than the low ones
to fix a warped wheel ... tighten the spokes on the opposite side of the wheel not the same side
And then I learned to ditch the rag joint. Then I learned to ditch the hub adapter. Mag wheels is my current solution. No truing either!
The axels wil snap on mag wheels too much heat build up
You mounted the throttle control on the wrong side of the handle bars, it needs to be rotated 180 degrees so that the throttle cable is facing away from you, not towards you. Similar to how the cable is for the clutch cable. This will also make the Killswitch more accessible.
Thanks, I corrected that shortly after making this video and before selling the thing. Had a lot of fun doing it and will probably make another one this year. Thanks for looking.
Otherwise it's a good build and good video 🤙
Really think I need a cable brake as a back up. Scary if the coaster brake fails.
sandworm3, I wouldn't ride it without one. 70 lbs of bike and motor plus me. Scary.
Yeah I learned my mistake by having someone cut me off and coaster brakes locked up slithered a good 25 feet left a nice flat spot on my tire
lol I got cut off today at 20mph and smashed in to the rear quarter panel of the car. Not cool, but I would have needed an ejection seat to avoid that. That was with disc brakes, too. Some jackasses...
even with a loud 2-stroke, you'd think they'd hear you
If you get a heavy duty gas bike wheel it wont happen ... Have a brand new one still in the box 36 spoke 12gauge 26 x 2.125 rim if your looking to buy one ... Just saying ... It's a bbr brand ... I have its twin on my Nell Russo ... Best move I have made ... other than the sprocket adapter
Hello.Im from Poland.I like this engine i have too.My bike is nice your too.My top speed is 55km.h its good speed for this moto I thing.
I need something like this
Nice video!
i got a road master bike with 80cc kit
I have the exact same bike. I love the look but hate the way it handles. I rode straight handlebars and switching to old fashioned wernt easy.
It does look really cool but vibrated a bit too much when it went over 30. If I ever build another one, I'm going to build it on a quality mountain bike frame.
lol that's the same bike i got from walmart. cheap 120 but looks great
lol, exactly.
Dear sir I bought mine already complete seems like it was a good build but I’m wondering where can I find a tool kit for just the The motor to make adjustments and does that exist thank you for your time
All you really need is a 10 mm (ratcheting) wrench, some Allen wrenches and a Phillips head screw driver. I assembled my whole motor with just those 3 tools
I noticed you didn’t put a filter on your fuel line.
Good observation. I ended up putting on one before I sold it.
at 1:37 your head gasket look uneven you should tighten down the cylinder head bolts.
Connor Ernst good eyes, thank you. I sold the thing but will pass that information on. will be starting a new project soon.
no prob
What happened to the breaks!!!????? Never installed?????
First set didn't fit properly. Ordered another set and installed later.
your end pic never showed the brakes did you ever put them on?
I bought a few pairs before I found ones that would not rub. I sold the bike shortly after putting them on. I would recommend disk brakes for sure.
How did you get the chain to not rub on the tires? I have the same exact bike and I am installing a motor.
ethan lee it cleared the tire without any modification. Maybe the motors are different and the gear may protrude a little more?
Probably. I have the Grubee Skyhawk GTA5
How did you get the coaster brake to clear the bolts on the sprocket?
I believe so. I have the Grubee Skyhawk. I installed a slightly smaller tire 26 x 1.75 and it works.
Am in Jamaica and I want 2, 80cc engine. You do shipping ?
Take off the fenders! Or learn the hard way LOL Seriously! I tried it even with old ass 10 ga ones. They could pretty much take a 9mm they where so thick lol still failed over time from vibration! The plastic ones will fold up in the tire and kill you. The metal ones will split around the bolts from vibration over time. Mine lasted a while and then bit the dust. Tried everything you could think off to kill the vibration or dampen it and still failed! th-cam.com/video/ljagB9WCcZY/w-d-xo.html when the front gave up the ghost mid ride on me, I got lucky it didn't flip into my tire like most have happen!
Front wheel bearings dont last long. Get ready for that.
Any problems with the Nel Lusso bike? I've heard the vibration from the motor snaps the frame at the back rack.
I have since sold it but did not have any problems while I owned it except for a bit of a leaky gas tank. Thanks for checking out my video.
Do you find mounting the gas tank on the top bar a problem? Great job on your review - enjoyed it!
Mark Stricklett , thank you. The only issue I had if I remember correctly was, I had to clamp it down pretty good because it did move around a bit if my knees hit it.
CRAWNBERRY DELUX 😍
do you have any problems with vibrations? i have a bunch even though my crank is balanced
I had vibrations, but I just attributed that to the cheap Chinese engine. I don't know if I would call it a problem but it was like riding a very fast two-wheeled lawn mower.
You have put kill switch wrong side
Lol, a little late now. I sold it years ago.
Your rear sprocket is on the wrong way
I've learned so far that fenders will try to kill you if they aren't reinforced
I went over the bars not cool 😒 front fender
Are there any American made kits ???
most of those claiming to be "made in America" are just parts from China and Taiwan ASSEMBLED here
The most American kits are from Zeda, they have the most powerful kits, and the most reliable ones too. They still use Chinese parts tho, but if you want to get up to 70 mph, that's your best bet. But they are also the most expensive, their best engines go for 700+ dollars, and they only make 80cc motors, cheapest kit is still around 200 bucks if you have them port it which I don't know why you wouldn't considering performance and reliability would be the only reason you're buying from them. They are also the makers of most of the case reed valve kits that are made, which I've found to be the most reliable, however, they start out at nearly 400 bucks on their page.
unfortunately Zeda Mafia only makes those as 2 stroke, they would have a greater customer base if they offered 4 strokes, there are so many that want to do this, but dirty fuel mixing, smellier, noisier and frequent breakdown maintenance is a major turn off, most don't worry so much about customization capabilities as ease of use, I can't blame, I sell 4 stroke 79cc pre-assembled (with the bike) and full proper breakin for $600, they don't have to do anything but pick it up, no other companies do what I do, you can get a 49cc 2 stroke bike assembled for $800, others just go up from there, but you still have to do some setup and always breakin, I make my money on numbers not high prices, so I have a lot of people coming to me, but most (80%) can't change a spark plug on a lawnmower, much less regular maintenance on a 2stroke engine, they need to pander to greater numbers, because Zeda charging so much is forcing too many people over to ebikes, then they realize ebikes are too much for too little and just give up on all motorized bicycles, e or g
Phob, I've done over 130 2 stroke builds for another company I worked for and god knows how many repairs and maintenance, when we say "breakdown maintenance", in my line of work, it is a partial or complete disassembly for maintenance, so calm yourself
2 strokes aren't smellier, you have scented 2 stroke oil, it smells better, and even then I think the scent of 2 strokes are good by default. Noiser, you can get a muffler, and even then they aren't really noiser, they are just higher pitched. Breakdowns are uncommon unless you got the cheapest kit you could possibly find, it took me around 1000 miles doing like 3-4 hour commutes to even get a single actual problem with a cheap, 150 dollar kit, which wasn't even due to my commutes, it was due to a rotten oil that Autozone sold me, it had curds on the bottom and smelled like guano, and at first I didn't notice, but then when the engine started chirping and making weird noises, I checked the oil and realized it was bad. Also, oil mixing is the most misunderstood thing in this community, everyone thinks you need to have a specific ratio, no, you go based on what the oil says to run, if it says to run between 32:1 and 50:1, that's the range you should be running it in, because they test those oils based on lubricity, and they found that the lubricity between the 2 ratios have enough lubricity to run a standard 2 stroke, if it says to run it between 50:1 and 100:1, run it between that, because your oil is what matters because that's what controls your lubricity, not your engine. The reason engine manuals say to run a certain ratio is that typically they are referencing a certain oil, and I know this from dirtbikes because literally in the manual they put a ratio, and then their oil that they make right next to it. That's where the misconception probably started, as its where it started for most dirt-bike beginners, it probably started with the original manufacturer of these shitty Chinese 2 strokes that probably also made oil, or were in partnership with someone that does. I personally use Amsoil saber, and run 80:1, I haven't had issues running that ratio at all. Just go through the break in with a normal oil and run 32:1 or 20:1 even just to get the burrs out, which usually actually happens within 10-15 minutes of running it on that ratio from my experience.
Also, zeda doesn't charge too much, they make everything to order and sell high-performance engines made by them. If it was a factory in China making these motors I'd understand, but it's not, its a couple guys cutting out stuff and putting things together in a shop, and also cramming 8+ horsepower into a tiny 2 stroke motor without any mass production to do such things. it makes sense. You think the 50cc engine that set a land speed record cost 100 bucks? no, it probably cost upwards of 800-900 dollars.
How do you brake? I've seen so many videos but I don't see any way to stop the bike...
Rusty, I installed a front brake but have since sold the bike. Stopping is very important😀
Coaster brakes seem to be on a lot of these I’ve noticed
Just out of curiosity, why did you upgrade to basic sidepull brakes when you could have gone with dual pivot? It's the same mount, around the same price and dual pivot has better stopping power..
MrCommentator, the brakes in the video I never put on. The reason I bought them was because it was all the little bike shop down the road had and they sold them to me for 15 bucks. What a deal :-). I am waiting for new beach cruiser brakes which I believe are dual pivot to come from Amazon on Tuesday. I am probably going to sell this bike but if I should decide to keep it, I may try to swap out the fork for a cheap mountain bike Fork with a shock and disk brakes.
for that rim you need rod brakes as it is too shallow with no sides to clamp onto
I am expecting a pair of brakes advertised as beach cruiser bike brakes to be delivered today from Amazon. They got good reviews and hopefully they will work.
looks like the rear rim is wider so the tire wont spin under brake stress hop it all works out OK
where's spell check when you need it?
I learned that EVERYTHING WILL need to be tightened!! ALWAYS CHECK EVERYTHING!!!!! LOCTITE is your friend!! And a RAG JOINT is NOT!!
Rag joints work fine
What is the mileage for this bike?
How fast will those go? Does anyone put expansion chambers on them?
MCE Performance, the one in the video would do about 35 to 40, faster than I wanted to go. this was my first build and I discovered there are all sorts of ways to make these things go faster. personally, if I was to do it again, I would put a larger sprocket on the back so top-end would not be as fast but I could go up hills with more torque.
Photojunky's Drone Zone Vlog mine go fifty some go much faster. zeda motorsports makes a 96 cc kit
Handlebars are shaped funny
What is the top speed of this bike
Ayyanar Samy somewhere around 40 with about 130 MPG.
for not only safety purposes, but also the life of the engine, I recommend NOT going over 30 for more than a half an hour at a time, these engines are air cooled, but at higher speeds, the frame and your legs actually reduce the effective air flow, the engine will overheat quickly, back it off to 20mphor less for at least 10 minutes, my father is installing a scoop on mine when I get the new one, but it's not so I can go higher speeds, it's so I can cool more efficiently at 30mph for longer
You got the throttle upside down
David Raye ,yes
Заднее колесо необходимо заменить на двойное с усиленным ободом ,перестанет рвать спицы, а то смотрю все как один одинаковые велосипеды к американцев!
No gas filter? Hahaha
Music sounds like it belongs in a 1970s porn flick, instead of an educational/ informative video. Nice bike though. There should be more of this type of content on YT.
niceeeeee
"One issue I had was the instructions were in chinese"
I youtubed it.
I'm laughing with you I'm currently building my first so issues are there, I just thought it was funny
Lol "brakes" Ive been hitting 55 and using dollar store flip flops as brakes for a few years 😂
Was going to recommend a front disc set up - but flip flops...awesome.
@@LuckyTown77 where can i buy said front disc set up for that bike?
Those kits from China just suck. Don't waste your $100.00.
Your mom sucks, and everyone still wastes their $100.00 on her too.