Great job, Dr. Faust! Your colonial troops turned out nicely. It's good to see the legendary Perry Twins still doin' what they love! I remember how nice the Empire of Sigmar and the Bretonnian range for Warhammer looked back in the early 90s when the Perry Twins were doing the sculpts.
these are incredible man , so inspirational , ive been watching you for almost 2 years now and every single video never fails to amaze me , keep up the good work!
Good to see something different. There is not a lot of historical miniatures on youtube. The Wargames, Soldiers and Strategy channel has a video on painting black.
Thanks for this video - provided a lot of inspiration and techniques that helped me get back into model soldier painting after a 30 year break. The finished figures are beautiful.
Very good tutorial. In 2018 i started collecting 28mm American, French,Hessian and British troops, plus the woodland Indians. Now I ain't a painter of high degree, so I needed lots of advice upon the subject. So thank you for this. Greetings BB
Nice work sir. I can see these miniatures bringing a lot of learning to any painter. A regimented discipline, ironically, is required to complete them to a competant artistic standard & the formulaeic method for colour application is less wandering than the creative play involved with individual characters. I think this manner of painting possibly engages understanding of colour & differing paint qualities of manufacturers to all painters, I suppose it is like my old art teacher telling me to learn to draw a chair correctly before I engage in anatomically inapropriate monsters. Although currently having little interest in that historical period, I am sorely tempted to purchase those Perry figz, simply because they are so impressive, more so even, as a 'cheaper' plastic figure. Thank you for the tutorial & upload.
I usually do quite well with overhighlighting my black with grey drybrushes, and then knocking back with washes. It's a long time since I found black scary. Yellow, on the other hand...
Question for you: How much do you tend to thin your paints? I have water in an empty Vallejo-style eyedropper but it seems like whenever I add even 2-3 drops, the paint (I'm using Vallejo as well) becomes way too watery, doesn't cover at all and I'd have to do like a dozen coats of even an opaque paint (and I can only imagine how many with something that doesn't cover easily like red or yellow). I've ended up using my VMC colors almost straight out of the bottle, sometimes with like a drip of water off the brush from my water cup, just so they'll actually cover! I'm clearly doing something wrong, but not sure if I should learn to apply the water dropper better or what.
There is no one answer. It depends on the brand and color of paint you're using, the color it's going over, if you're painting quality or quantity, layering or basecoating, etc. These were painted fast and dirty, so a rough guide is 1:1 for basecoat, 1:3 for highlights. For higher quality single pieces I may use 1:6 or even thinner.
what a great job and great video. And by someone who appears to be more of a fantasy painter at that. I just have a couple of alternatives for historical minis depending on your style. One can also prime the figures in krylon grey or brown primer. Black is an awfully hard color to paint over. Especially with today's translucent paints. Also, black spray paint never seems to give me a quality coat of primer. personally, I would only use it if I was painting an ancient's chain mail or plate mail. also... This next alternative is not for snobs but... I have Foundry Paint sets 1 and 2 and many Vallejo and GW paints but the $1 craft paints from Hobby Lobby can be very effective. for one thing, you can usually paint things like white straps with one coat. If nothing else, you can use the craft paints for your bases and save your expensive paint for the mini.
Nice. One thing you didn't talk about was the buttons (you may have and I missed it), but one area I always struggle with is bloody buttons!!! I don't seem to have a technique where I can not over 'blob' the button or under do it iether. 15mm I don't worry about buttons, but on 28mm you really have to. Any tips?
I have no tips or shortcuts for buttons. Just need a steady hand and a tiny brush. Only thing you can try is mixing a little brown paint in with gold so it flows easier. Metallic paint on its own does tend to be a bit blob-y.
I really enjoyed watching you use a blending technique as opposed to a dry brushing technique because blending usually takes me so much longer. When doing an entire army, that time adds up. I don't know that this would work on the scale I usually work with, namely 15mm but I'll have to try it now that you've made it look easier than I thought it would be. As far as painting blacks goes, you might want to showcase some WW2 German SS tankers whose uniforms were primarily black. Just an idea for a good demo. Thanks.
Outstanding tutorial Doc Faust!! I am preparing for retirement and getting back into military miniature painting and have selected Perry's AWI line. I am very grateful that you provided info on the Vallejo Paints you used. Couple of questions. You make applying the different coats easy, can I ask what brush the red handled one is you were using? It applies a very even coat and still provides you with the ability to keep fine lines. Two, do you have a recommendation on paint selections for the British Infantry (Red coats). Three, did you flock and prime the bases before starting the process? Thanks again for a great tutorial...I will look through your library for additional helpful hints
Hey awesome vid and work job well done. I these days making and painting a Byzantine army 15MM smaller miniatures. I use Vallejo model colors too so as you said as there are the best for the job for these 28MM bigger miniatures too.? I am waiting for some Red Coats revolutionary wars era 28MM plastic but "warlords games" so I need some directions if you like to tell me. So as i can see you first glue the parts hand and heads/hat then you glue it to their base and then you start painting and do I have to pass all of those colors above so many hands? With the smaller miniatures, I just use white for the first hand the base and then only colors but only one hand, and when it's dry varnish and it's done? I guess they have directions in the box for what color you can use per figure and what hands to glue for the figures.? Btw what glue to use for those plastic figures to glue extra well??? Thanks in advance pal and again awesome vid!
Hey, Doctor Faust. i was wondering on what your opinion is on the new citadel (GW) colours? How are they compared to lets say, valejo? And what is the reason you dont use them? Greetings from Norway :)
I don't and have never use GW paint so I cannot comment on them. I don't use them due to lack of stability. A game company that sells paint does so secondary. They may change the paint if they change their supplier or go away entirely if their game fails. I have a drawer of paint line that no longer exist because the company is gone. Since Vallejo only sells paint, they are less likely to disappear because that is their main focus.
Einar, I have come to understand that the current range of Citadel Colours is fine if you follow GW's *1-2-3* method of painting, it's designed so that one can get the minis painted faster and to a decent standard without going the traditional or long route. However, the new paints don't thin out or blend well with each other, it's "greasy" stuff! So if you want to paint in the traditional style with them it's best to use *Tamiya Paint Thinner X-20A* to to properly thin (or cut) the paints so that blending and mixing goes more smoothly. Doing so with *X-20A* with also allow you to custom mix new colors that go beyond what is offered by GW. That is IF you want to use those new paints, the choice is yours. Happy painting!
Nice vid :) I see that you start with the shadow colour and build up to the highlight colour. I have seen some other good painters start with the base colour then paint in the shadows and highlights on top of the base.. what do you think of that and do you think both methods give a similar result?
where did you get the baseplate or grasspart of the feet from? Also what is that thing you have that you hold instead of the soldier? I always smudge the paint when holding him.
These are the pewter guys, right? I'm thinking of getting them for one of my dioramas, how many come in a set (of 7 pounds)? And great video by the way. Lots of help for a noob like me :) EDIT: Sorry, forgot about what you said at the end. Thanks anyway for the video!
This is outstanding! The light bulb came on over my head about one minute into the video. The numbers of AWI painting video resources are almost zero, and to have "the master" teaching this one is so very helpful. I found so many techniques in this video that differ from anything I knew before that it would be tough to count them all. A few questions, though: do you recommend always priming these figures in black? Do you have a video on layering paints, as well? I did find the militia highlighting videos and really enjoyed them. Do you have a video on painting AWI or similar cannons? Thanks again for doing this.
Excellently painted figures and some good tips too
Great job, Dr. Faust! Your colonial troops turned out nicely. It's good to see the legendary Perry Twins still doin' what they love! I remember how nice the Empire of Sigmar and the Bretonnian range for Warhammer looked back in the early 90s when the Perry Twins were doing the sculpts.
Stunning work. Your videos are always an excellent watch with all the little tips and tricks you throw into the mix.
these are incredible man , so inspirational , ive been watching you for almost 2 years now and every single video never fails to amaze me , keep up the good work!
Fantastic minis!!!
Wow. Awesome Job.
Good to see something different. There is not a lot of historical miniatures on youtube. The Wargames, Soldiers and Strategy channel has a video on painting
black.
Those came out quite dandy.
This is great stuff but could we have more macro-close-up camera ??
Can you do one on the perry British plastic AWI .. assembling and posing ?
Thanks for this video - provided a lot of inspiration and techniques that helped me get back into model soldier painting after a 30 year break. The finished figures are beautiful.
These look AMAZING!!! I really hope mine then or looking good t a minimum lol! Good video!!!!
Very good tutorial.
In 2018 i started collecting 28mm American, French,Hessian and British troops, plus the woodland Indians. Now I ain't a painter of high degree, so I needed lots of advice upon the subject.
So thank you for this. Greetings BB
Nice work sir. I can see these miniatures bringing a lot of learning to any painter. A regimented discipline, ironically, is required to complete them to a competant artistic standard & the formulaeic method for colour application is less wandering than the creative play involved with individual characters. I think this manner of painting possibly engages understanding of colour & differing paint qualities of manufacturers to all painters, I suppose it is like my old art teacher telling me to learn to draw a chair correctly before I engage in anatomically inapropriate monsters. Although currently having little interest in that historical period, I am sorely tempted to purchase those Perry figz, simply because they are so impressive, more so even, as a 'cheaper' plastic figure. Thank you for the tutorial & upload.
I usually do quite well with overhighlighting my black with grey drybrushes, and then knocking back with washes. It's a long time since I found black scary.
Yellow, on the other hand...
Do you think that you could show us how to paint, 1813-1815 28mm warlord prussian line infantry, or Landwehr
To paint black I usually do a highlight of light grey on the edges and a white dry-brush.
Question for you: How much do you tend to thin your paints? I have water in an empty Vallejo-style eyedropper but it seems like whenever I add even 2-3 drops, the paint (I'm using Vallejo as well) becomes way too watery, doesn't cover at all and I'd have to do like a dozen coats of even an opaque paint (and I can only imagine how many with something that doesn't cover easily like red or yellow). I've ended up using my VMC colors almost straight out of the bottle, sometimes with like a drip of water off the brush from my water cup, just so they'll actually cover! I'm clearly doing something wrong, but not sure if I should learn to apply the water dropper better or what.
There is no one answer. It depends on the brand and color of paint you're using, the color it's going over, if you're painting quality or quantity, layering or basecoating, etc. These were painted fast and dirty, so a rough guide is 1:1 for basecoat, 1:3 for highlights. For higher quality single pieces I may use 1:6 or even thinner.
what a great job and great video. And by someone who appears to be more of a fantasy painter at that. I just have a couple of alternatives for historical minis depending on your style. One can also prime the figures in krylon grey or brown primer. Black is an awfully hard color to paint over. Especially with today's translucent paints. Also, black spray paint never seems to give me a quality coat of primer. personally, I would only use it if I was painting an ancient's chain mail or plate mail. also... This next alternative is not for snobs but... I have Foundry Paint sets 1 and 2 and many Vallejo and GW paints but the $1 craft paints from Hobby Lobby can be very effective. for one thing, you can usually paint things like white straps with one coat. If nothing else, you can use the craft paints for your bases and save your expensive paint for the mini.
superb lesson easy to follow and effective style.
very well done!
Your videos are so nice. I like them, I learn and I m relaxing. Ty.
Great work bro.
Excellent.
Nice.
One thing you didn't talk about was the buttons (you may have and I missed it), but one area I always struggle with is bloody buttons!!! I don't seem to have a technique where I can not over 'blob' the button or under do it iether.
15mm I don't worry about buttons, but on 28mm you really have to.
Any tips?
I have no tips or shortcuts for buttons. Just need a steady hand and a tiny brush. Only thing you can try is mixing a little brown paint in with gold so it flows easier. Metallic paint on its own does tend to be a bit blob-y.
Your a great painter man just subscribed keep the videos coming very helpful and fun to watch you work
I really enjoyed watching you use a blending technique as opposed to a dry brushing technique because blending usually takes me so much longer. When doing an entire army, that time adds up. I don't know that this would work on the scale I usually work with, namely 15mm but I'll have to try it now that you've made it look easier than I thought it would be. As far as painting blacks goes, you might want to showcase some WW2 German SS tankers whose uniforms were primarily black. Just an idea for a good demo. Thanks.
Outstanding tutorial Doc Faust!! I am preparing for retirement and getting back into military miniature painting and have selected Perry's AWI line. I am very grateful that you provided info on the Vallejo Paints you used. Couple of questions. You make applying the different coats easy, can I ask what brush the red handled one is you were using? It applies a very even coat and still provides you with the ability to keep fine lines. Two, do you have a recommendation on paint selections for the British Infantry (Red coats). Three, did you flock and prime the bases before starting the process? Thanks again for a great tutorial...I will look through your library for additional helpful hints
Hey awesome vid and work job well done. I these days making and painting a Byzantine army 15MM smaller miniatures. I use Vallejo model colors too so as you said as there are the best for the job for these 28MM bigger miniatures too.? I am waiting for some Red Coats revolutionary wars era 28MM plastic but "warlords games" so I need some directions if you like to tell me. So as i can see you first glue the parts hand and heads/hat then you glue it to their base and then you start painting and do I have to pass all of those colors above so many hands? With the smaller miniatures, I just use white for the first hand the base and then only colors but only one hand, and when it's dry varnish and it's done? I guess they have directions in the box for what color you can use per figure and what hands to glue for the figures.? Btw what glue to use for those plastic figures to glue extra well??? Thanks in advance pal and again awesome vid!
Hey, Doctor Faust. i was wondering on what your opinion is on the new citadel (GW) colours? How are they compared to lets say, valejo? And what is the reason you dont use them?
Greetings from Norway :)
I don't and have never use GW paint so I cannot comment on them. I don't use them due to lack of stability. A game company that sells paint does so secondary. They may change the paint if they change their supplier or go away entirely if their game fails. I have a drawer of paint line that no longer exist because the company is gone. Since Vallejo only sells paint, they are less likely to disappear because that is their main focus.
Einar, I have come to understand that the current range of Citadel Colours is fine if you follow GW's *1-2-3* method of painting, it's designed so that one can get the minis painted faster and to a decent standard without going the traditional or long route.
However, the new paints don't thin out or blend well with each other, it's "greasy" stuff! So if you want to paint in the traditional style with them it's best to use *Tamiya Paint Thinner X-20A* to to properly thin (or cut) the paints so that blending and mixing goes more smoothly. Doing so with *X-20A* with also allow you to custom mix new colors that go beyond what is offered by GW. That is IF you want to use those new paints, the choice is yours. Happy painting!
What's the thimble for? You may have said it but I'm painting and not really paying much attention
+HasHimo Bakima I sliced my finger and a bandage was too slippery. You didn't want to see it.
+Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic thank you doc, I was very curious
Nice vid :) I see that you start with the shadow colour and build up to the highlight colour. I have seen some other good painters start with the base colour then paint in the shadows and highlights on top of the base.. what do you think of that and do you think both methods give a similar result?
Use which works best for you. I prefer the other method only on large pieces.
ThePaintingClinic thanks for the reply
where do you get that kind of model I went to hobby lobby and they only have already painted models and there smaller
+clifford bob Have to find a miniature gaming store. Hobby Lobby is more for arts and crafts.
Also sometimes dark colors go on extremely streaky over white primer. How the heck that is I have no idea but it happens sometimes.
This is so cool
Nice. Is that a 1:35 scale figure? Can you do one in 1:72? Thanks.
28mm or 1/56.
Are this the independents model kit if they are can I use them for my civil war game
Great video. One question: you mention Vallejo dark Prussian blue (70899) for the jacket but to my eye it looks more like Prussian blue (70965)?
Where else can you say, "I'm used to painting elves--"?
Good coverage of deceptively simple colors.
This is a little old, but i ll ask anyway. Do you ever use a wet palette?? Thanks for all your hardwork, Doc!!
Brilliant
you make it look so easy! what kind of brush do you use?
Princeton 4050r #2.
What do you do with all your models?
Play or display.
Have you painted Perry American Civil war?
Now are these plastic or metal? And do y’all recommend one or the other? NEED HELP!
Well painted, I will use your techniques to paint my Warlord Games AWI. Bought some Perry's, and was not impressed by the figs.
where did you get the baseplate or grasspart of the feet from? Also what is that thing you have that you hold instead of the soldier? I always smudge the paint when holding him.
Max von S GF9 static grass. I don't remember the exact shade. It's just an old bottle and some hot glue to act as a holder.
+Max von S What I use is some sticky tack on an old bottle lid and it works great.
These are the pewter guys, right? I'm thinking of getting them for one of my dioramas, how many come in a set (of 7 pounds)? And great video by the way. Lots of help for a noob like me :)
EDIT: Sorry, forgot about what you said at the end. Thanks anyway for the video!
Awesome. ¿how much time do you wait between color and color, with your Vallejo paints?. I mean, ¿what dry time do this paints have? Regards!
Depends on how thick they are applied. Thin layer could be seconds.
@@ThePaintingClinic Thanks!!!
This is outstanding! The light bulb came on over my head about one minute into the video. The numbers of AWI painting video resources are almost zero, and to have "the master" teaching this one is so very helpful. I found so many techniques in this video that differ from anything I knew before that it would be tough to count them all. A few questions, though: do you recommend always priming these figures in black? Do you have a video on layering paints, as well? I did find the militia highlighting videos and really enjoyed them. Do you have a video on painting AWI or similar cannons? Thanks again for doing this.
Black prime coat is a lot more work when there is over 100 figures to paint.
so beautiful will you paint my seven years war figures for me XD (for free lol)
thanks Ian
hi, what kind of paint do you use?
acrylic I assume
HEY! What happened to your finger!
Just finished my AWI continental army, and holy moly I am sick of painting white.
can l have it look good. 😀
Wait .. did I hear MST3K??