@@TroyMcMillan no kidding man. Thank you for the work and sharing. Please keep it up. Helps us starting in the hobby to learn from the veterans like you. You video on printer set up is absolutely priceless. These videos are great too to show the process of assembly.
@@TroyMcMillan Well they were pretty much the first doing them...they have evolved a lot along the way. I didn't find them any more difficult to print then others but I started on them before the others came around and got my printer dialed in back then. What I did find is that earlier models were more difficult to assemble than newer ones. That said, their original wing rib design I still like the best even though it isn't as light as some of the newer planes. The curved ribs make a much more solid wing and has less sagging between ribs.
Nice to see you back flying, printing, building, and recording. Just a little bit of G at 12:28. LOL Brilliant idea (by 3dPrintLab) of using PLA filament for aileron hinge (7:00) and for wing brace (6:25). Yet carbon (?) was used for elevator hinge (2:15). Seems like a minor inconsistency in the design. Thinking a a bright yellow T-6 Texan designed and constructed in similar way would be a popular plane.
You can use pla for the elevator hinge also. I just had spare 2mm carbon rods that fit more snugly, the pla had some play in the elevator hinge that I wanted to avoid if I could
Yes definitely! Recently I printed the older 3d lab Me-109. I asked myself if it is possible to print it with LW filament. Well, at least partly would be weight saving I guess.
@@rcpowres using lwpla for that plane would save a lot of weight, but because that design uses the old printing method, there would be a ton of stringing on the parts.
Oh good to know. So the question is if the stringing (possibly inside the hull) is acceptable? Is it ok from the mechanical point of view (stiffness, durability etc.) ? Maybe l will try it! Viele Grüße Chris
@@rcpowres that is fine! stringing doesn't effect the weight at all, so as long as the quality of the part looks good and feels strong it should be fine!
Thanks for the fun video . I finally got around to printing the Eclipson model c. I can honestly say it’s not a easy as you make it lol . I have glue everywhere and the mishaps were unbearable at times . But I did it and I will do a few test before flight . But thanks for the video and AWSOME build .
Lol that is what I figured . I bought a big role of colorfast light weight pla so I’ll definitely reprint the plane and learn to work with it and try and develop better techniques. Again I really appreciate your videos , and the push to make 3d printed planes better (hopefully none day no flu and snap together prices) lol
I saw your comment on the model c and have it as well. I have used pla plus, polylite, pla lw and now a petg version. Also made combination of them. Pla in front and lw in rear to balance strength and weight. I cannot get many flights with plalw. It just cracks everywhere. Have you experienced any of this?
My plane ended up crashing on the 2nd flight. My ESC and motor I bought from Amazon didn’t work to well. Anyways I’m thinking now that 3d planes are cool but the strength And is an issue.
@@shownuff891I am on printed version 6. I removed landing gear. Hand launching works great. I land on grass with so much less damage. I am using a cheap 2212 1400km motor 8x4 prop. I was not able to keep gear tracking straight.
Today I had a few hours and made the maiden flight. This plane is awesome! I used a 2830 motor with 1300KV, 1500mAh battery with a 30A ESC. I put 20g of lead in the nose to get the right center of gravity. Launch was very easy, and I was very nervous about it. Just full throttle and a smooth thrust with a 30° angle up, just like Troy did. It flies like a charm and the landing at low speed with the nose up in the grass is perfect. I love this plane ❤. @Troy: Thanks for all the great videos
That model looks way better then the others from that vendor. Or your printer is way better for the surface finish. Well done, I have a foam F6F that would look great with that zero.
Just finished printing my 2nd one last week. The first one survived for 8 seconds :D But I have ZERO real flight experience, and reality turned out to be not exactly what you find in rc sims. Great video, thanks
@@TroyMcMillan it is such an iconic piece of r/c history. Id love to see it come back as a park flyer foamy, but I think a 3d printed one would be something really special.
I'm in the process of printing one of these and it's excellent! Great video! I'm making mine from the new Poly maker prefoamed LW-PLA. It seems very easy to work with although a little heavier than the other brands. I would like to see a video review by Troy of that new material.
Great video! The plane looks great and gives joy just by looking at how good it flies! May I ask how did you desing the plane and what program did you use? Cheers and great work!
Very nice work!!! Who draw these planes that you build? They are internet models or you do everything including all the fitting edges, mathematics etc? Thanks!!
Hey Troy Great looking plane. I've just recently found your channel not month ago I believe. I've been thinking about building this zero as well but wanted to see someone else build it first. I must say nice work. I've been working on the eclipson c model. I have about three of them printed out right now. Two for my father and one for me. Troy do you sand your planes before you paint? I've been using some 1000grit just to knock the rough surface off the esun pla-lw i've been using. Makes it look a littler better. Out of all the printers you have now which one do you like using the most? Keep up the good work!
I don't sand them before paint. I use Krylon paint and primer in one with green frog tape to mask and it adheres like a charm. Out of all the printers, probably the anycubic vyper is my all time favorite. This flsun sr in the video I mentioned, I've been running it for a while now and it is AMAZING. it might be my new favorite but its too early to say
I was quiet skeptical about the esun pla-lw at first but it’s growing own me. Specially after I’ve printed out three eclipson model c planes. It probably took me about 30 mins to get it dialed in. I believe I still have about quarter of filament left. So far no complaints here!
Great job! I am trying to build the very same plane with the very same printer but I'm having some troubles adapting the original setting made for prusa to the super race... would you mind sharing the approach you used with the flsun sr (slicer, settings, 3mf files workflow?) thank you
How do you manage to get so little stringing? With lwpla my prints are nice from the outside but super stringy inside. I use the 3mf files for the piper j3 with prusa slicer and a mk4 and it seems prusa sloces with a lot of hops in the layers and rarely gets a continous path. Any help is apreciated :)
Thank you!! I use krylon paint and primer spray paint, and I use green frog tape to mask it off. I’ve found that works best for minimal bleeding. I design my own decals they can be kind of tricky so whenever I can I would rather use paint
I have been thinking about a FLSUN SR. I was wondering if you have run into any print problems with the size of print parts of the airplanes. Any advice would be appreciated!
Nice work.. Not sure I understand your motor mounts though. What if you want to change the motor? With that nice scale look, 3 blader prop ya? (they work fine with no LG)
I started 3d over a year ago after watching your channel. Thank you for your experience you share. I am scratching my head on the plalw. I used the supplied gcodes with a skin that is so unforgiving to flying. Cracking wing in flight. I have a 3d lab print and eclipson models I tested. I also have used pla plus and have had great results. I am now working on a pet version Eclipson C. The model in this video is in plalw. I was wanting to build this one. Do you plan on trying in other materials?
@@azimuth9819 Pla is 220 and esun pla-lw is 135. Most of my planes I do a hybrid with front fuselage in pla and tail in pla-lw. Wing with both depends on CG.
Just started printing mine using the files they provided in Pursa Slicer, but it seems very very flimsy like vase mode 1 wall type printed, yours seems a lot more solid. Did you use PLA-LW? I swear something is wrong with mine
Do you have a preference between the design and build/print requirements for Eclipson models vs. 3Dlab models? Or, are they similar enough that there's really no noticeable difference in how they print and go together?
The 3 most recent 3dlabprint planes are designed to print and assemble really easily, the old designs are pretty difficult to print. Whereas all the eclipson planes are easy to print and assemble.
I am on the same page right with you. I have still not used anything other than Cura. For this build I sliced about half the files for the new printer, and used just the g codes with another one of my printers
I have just printed the 3d labs prints Mustang using PrusaSlicer 2.4 3d lab prints worked with Prusa to get a new setting in for their models. They have a video on their YT channel showing how to use the new settings with a download able profile. I was able to print the Mustang part all individually. Had a couple of failures but that was more my fault. Prusa Slicer is free as well. I did upgrade my CR-10 V2 to a direct drive as well which I think helped a lot with stringing. I used normal PLA for the whole build. Haven't glued it together yet have some other projects to finish first. Hope that helps rcKeith
Hi, thanks a lot for the video, it really makes me want to start designing the Zero! But I have some questions: - For the music wires, do I need a specific one? - Is it ok if I use a regular glue without accelerator? - Do you have any examples of other compatible radio controller? Thank you very much for your answers, Alex
For the music wire, I use 1.19mm that is the size you need Regular medium CA glue is what works best, no accelerator required! There are a few other radios I have heard from others that work well! amzn.to/3t9KiH9 or amzn.to/3GE6pe4
Hey Troy, currently printing the zero but I am unsure on some of the print details like top and bottom layers, the 3d lab print pdf does not specifically mention print settings the way eclipsing does. Is there any way to find this information or trial and error?
Hey! They don't list that on the PDF, they prefer you to use the already sliced g codes, but those don't always work for your specific printer. Basically, all the fuselage parts, wing section, stabilizer are all 0 top/bottom layer and 0 infill. The only parts with top/bottom layers are ailerons and elevator, usually use 4 bottom layers and 3 top layers if the parts ever need it
Have you ever wonder to print a glider with flexible filament? I'm a begginner on 3d print and maybe its a foolish idea, but for me that dont have any RC components seems nice to have a plane that I only have to throw and get it fliying without the fear of get it creashed on the first flying.
Hey Troy, really enjoying the videos, thank you. I have question for you. I'm trying to print my first model, I'm using eSun lw-pla, the walls so far look great with no stringing but as the print flattens out over the top of the cowl it opens up leaving large gaps between the filament. How do I get around this.? Regards Glenn
Were you able to sort this out? If not, the cowling needs to be printed out of regular PLA, and I also turned down the layer heights to 0.12mm to have better print quality on the nose
That 3d printer is awesome I've been looking at it for awhile but I already have the flsun delta pro it's a fast printer and it's bigger that's why I haven't got yours how much of the filament roll did it take to make the whole roll half or what
It says to print the motor mount with PETG. I'm wondering if you actually use PETG? Or by chance did you have to use nylon ABS ASA or did you just print with standard PLA?
Hi, great video it made me want to print this plane. I do have an issue I wanted to ask about. When I print the fuselage cowl, no matter what Cura removes the brackets on the inside of the cowl. Any ideas on why this is happening? Thank you
Awesome build. If you could tell me how much it costed you for the whole project, I will make one for myself. I have 3d printer and light weight PLA filament. Please reply.
Really nice print as usual! Is that the standard spinner? My files for the spinner print look different (and don't print well). I think I'll try the 2200 3S as well, the 1500 is way tail heavy.
I had the same issues with the spinner, so I ended up using a different spinner I had files for. I didn't want to use that battery because I was worried it would be too heavy but it worked so well, I definitely recommend it
@@TroyMcMillan Hi Troy, thank you for the detailed assembly video. I really like the spinner you used. Where can I buy or download the STL files for it?
I just ordered this kit! Can’t wait to get it printing!
少ないパーツの組み合わせでこれだけの飛行が出来るのは凄い
日本人だ！
Awesome Zero,Tora Tora Tora, thanks for this plane build and fly!
Thank you !!
I've been making my own 3d printed models for about a year now and i'm learning A LOT from watching these. Thanks!
im glad I can help :)
@@TroyMcMillan no kidding man. Thank you for the work and sharing. Please keep it up. Helps us starting in the hobby to learn from the veterans like you. You video on printer set up is absolutely priceless. These videos are great too to show the process of assembly.
Great to have you back. Good build seems to fly well See you soon regards Richard
Thank you so much, Richard!! It's nice to be back making videos. :)
Nice to see you finally do a review on a 3dLabPrint plane!
they changed the designs of their planes so they print so much easier now, I had to give another a try! I did their Cessna 152 before
@@TroyMcMillan Well they were pretty much the first doing them...they have evolved a lot along the way. I didn't find them any more difficult to print then others but I started on them before the others came around and got my printer dialed in back then. What I did find is that earlier models were more difficult to assemble than newer ones. That said, their original wing rib design I still like the best even though it isn't as light as some of the newer planes. The curved ribs make a much more solid wing and has less sagging between ribs.
Building the same plane right now! Truly an awesome plane!
Sweet! I agree, this plane is awesome! let me know how it goes. :)
What a cool warbird!
Great Job! Thanks for the video!!!!👍
😊 Thank you!!
Nice to see you back on TH-cam.
Thank you so much, its nice to be back making videos :)
great flying plane!! thanks for sharing w us!
The BEST video I've seen in years. THANK YOU!
Wow what a detail design
Great to see you back, Nice build and video
Thank you so much 😊
Nice to see you back flying, printing, building, and recording.
Just a little bit of G at 12:28. LOL
Brilliant idea (by 3dPrintLab) of using PLA filament for aileron hinge (7:00) and for wing brace (6:25). Yet carbon (?) was used for elevator hinge (2:15). Seems like a minor inconsistency in the design.
Thinking a a bright yellow T-6 Texan designed and constructed in similar way would be a popular plane.
You can use pla for the elevator hinge also. I just had spare 2mm carbon rods that fit more snugly, the pla had some play in the elevator hinge that I wanted to avoid if I could
That's a huge battery for such a small plane!
I know! I had to use it for the CG!!
Oh！ZERO-Type21?
This is Cool!!
Nice looking zero!😁👍
Thank you its a cool plane!
Magnifico fantastico.parabens.
😊😊😊
Very cool Zero . i will be impressed when they make designs this size with retracts and split flaps like the b25
I really want to add retracts to this in the future!
I've never seen an rc plane as good as this, because in my country no one has done it like this
Had to watch it again today ☺️
I hope it was helpful!! 😊
Yes definitely! Recently I printed the older 3d lab Me-109. I asked myself if it is possible to print it with LW filament. Well, at least partly would be weight saving I guess.
@@rcpowres using lwpla for that plane would save a lot of weight, but because that design uses the old printing method, there would be a ton of stringing on the parts.
Oh good to know. So the question is if the stringing (possibly inside the hull) is acceptable? Is it ok from the mechanical point of view (stiffness, durability etc.) ?
Maybe l will try it! Viele Grüße
Chris
@@rcpowres that is fine! stringing doesn't effect the weight at all, so as long as the quality of the part looks good and feels strong it should be fine!
Thanks for the good video.
I understand a little more
Glad to hear that!!
WOW!!!! How cool is that. Like # 576!!!!
Cool. Now you could make an F4F Wildcat, a Corsair or an SBD Dauntless.
Awesome, I love your work so much
This is awesome.... long way away from the balsa wood days...
Thanks for the fun video . I finally got around to printing the Eclipson model c. I can honestly say it’s not a easy as you make it lol . I have glue everywhere and the mishaps were unbearable at times . But I did it and I will do a few test before flight . But thanks for the video and AWSOME build .
I appreciate it! The first one is definitely a learning curve, you learn a lot and get better on the next one!
Lol that is what I figured . I bought a big role of colorfast light weight pla so I’ll definitely reprint the plane and learn to work with it and try and develop better techniques. Again I really appreciate your videos , and the push to make 3d printed planes better (hopefully none day no flu and snap together prices) lol
I saw your comment on the model c and have it as well. I have used pla plus, polylite, pla lw and now a petg version. Also made combination of them. Pla in front and lw in rear to balance strength and weight. I cannot get many flights with plalw. It just cracks everywhere. Have you experienced any of this?
My plane ended up crashing on the 2nd flight. My ESC and motor I bought from Amazon didn’t work to well. Anyways I’m thinking now that 3d planes are cool but the strength And is an issue.
@@shownuff891I am on printed version 6. I removed landing gear. Hand launching works great. I land on grass with so much less damage. I am using a cheap 2212 1400km motor 8x4 prop. I was not able to keep gear tracking straight.
I love your videos!
Thank you!!
Молодец. Хорошо что сбрил бороду. Тебе идёт быть молодым.
Я слышу, что МНОГО
Nice! just finished mine!
sweet! are you planning on flying it?
@@TroyMcMillan yeah had my maiden a day ago, since its really my first time/plane i also installed a gyro. Great flyer!
@@NLmonsterNL I'm glad you had a great maiden! 😊
Outstanding build and flight. Your work is amazing and an inspiration!
I love this plane, thank you by show us this assembly. Im printing now! :P
Sweet! Happy building! 😊
I like your videos very much! Just finished my build of this plane. Can't wait to fly it 🙂
Today I had a few hours and made the maiden flight. This plane is awesome!
I used a 2830 motor with 1300KV, 1500mAh battery with a 30A ESC. I put 20g of lead in the nose to get the right center of gravity.
Launch was very easy, and I was very nervous about it. Just full throttle and a smooth thrust with a 30° angle up, just like Troy did. It flies like a charm and the landing at low speed with the nose up in the grass is perfect.
I love this plane ❤.
@Troy: Thanks for all the great videos
This is one of my absolute favorite planes for sure! I'm so glad it went well! Thanks for giving the update! 😊
Welcome back man!
Thanks so much man!! I liked your new video too :)
love your videos, keep up the good work. I'm a new be to 3d printing. Your videos certainly help
Woo! you're back! =) Awesome build! That blue tape transition was excellent :-D
Thank you so much :) I'm glad to be making videos again! :)
@@TroyMcMillan hey bro, Make a cargo plane to send pizza to friends
Like always amazing video 🔥🔥love it! Awesome channel!!!
Thank you so much. I appreciate it!!
Nice job
Very nice ❤
Buen video. Saludos desde Gran Canaria.
Awesome..! Dig the new Printer also, I'm working on some of my own RC Airplanes to print I might have to share one with you when I get it flying
Yeah definitely do, I'd love to check it out!
This is a pretty darn good printer for the Money. I thinks less then $500 or something like that
Nice :) Looking forward to see you in the next build of Model-S. So nice and cool glider from Eclipson.
I love a good 3D printed glider!
That model looks way better then the others from that vendor. Or your printer is way better for the surface finish. Well done, I have a foam F6F that would look great with that zero.
Great Video!! I am building that plane just now!! Having a little trouble with warping on the wings extremities. let´s see how it goes!!
Were you able to figure this out? Make sure it has the cooling fan on, 50-80% cooling.
Thanks !!
Just finished printing my 2nd one last week. The first one survived for 8 seconds :D But I have ZERO real flight experience, and reality turned out to be not exactly what you find in rc sims.
Great video, thanks
How do you get the parts to fit together so well?
nice
Can you use 1.2 mm pushrods
You should try 3D printing a Lou Andrews Aeromaster Too.
That’s a sweet idea
@@TroyMcMillan it is such an iconic piece of r/c history. Id love to see it come back as a park flyer foamy, but I think a 3d printed one would be something really special.
big fan
AWESOME!
I launch mine underhanded. As in grabbing the fuselage from the top below the canopy.
I was thinking about doing that too
Cool plane! Why PLA? Can I use PETG?
I'm in the process of printing one of these and it's excellent! Great video! I'm making mine from the new Poly maker prefoamed LW-PLA. It seems very easy to work with although a little heavier than the other brands. I would like to see a video review by Troy of that new material.
Il will be cool a video with a complete explanation of how you slice those files to obtain this quality!
Are you still using the artillery sidewinder x1? How has it held up?
Hi Troy, how did you paint the canopy without the paint bleeding all over the place?
Great video! The plane looks great and gives joy just by looking at how good it flies!
May I ask how did you desing the plane and what program did you use?
Cheers and great work!
This plane was actually designed by 3dLabprint. it is a wonderful plane. For design work I like fusion360 though!
Very nice work!!! Who draw these planes that you build? They are internet models or you do everything including all the fitting edges, mathematics etc? Thanks!!
there are many companies that design these types of planes, this one is by 3dlabprint
is it a good beginner plane? it doesnt need rudder control? could irt be added?
Hey Troy Great looking plane. I've just recently found your channel not month ago I believe. I've been thinking about building this zero as well but wanted to see someone else build it first. I must say nice work. I've been working on the eclipson c model. I have about three of them printed out right now. Two for my father and one for me. Troy do you sand your planes before you paint? I've been using some 1000grit just to knock the rough surface off the esun pla-lw i've been using. Makes it look a littler better. Out of all the printers you have now which one do you like using the most? Keep up the good work!
I don't sand them before paint. I use Krylon paint and primer in one with green frog tape to mask and it adheres like a charm. Out of all the printers, probably the anycubic vyper is my all time favorite. This flsun sr in the video I mentioned, I've been running it for a while now and it is AMAZING. it might be my new favorite but its too early to say
I was quiet skeptical about the esun pla-lw at first but it’s growing own me. Specially after I’ve printed out three eclipson model c planes. It probably took me about 30 mins to get it dialed in. I believe I still have about quarter of filament left. So far no complaints here!
Should I dry my esun lw pla before I use it?
Great job! I am trying to build the very same plane with the very same printer but I'm having some troubles adapting the original setting made for prusa to the super race... would you mind sharing the approach you used with the flsun sr (slicer, settings, 3mf files workflow?)
thank you
what kind of glue are you using in this kind of planes?
How do you manage to get so little stringing? With lwpla my prints are nice from the outside but super stringy inside. I use the 3mf files for the piper j3 with prusa slicer and a mk4 and it seems prusa sloces with a lot of hops in the layers and rarely gets a continous path. Any help is apreciated :)
Hi Troy, can you tell me what propeller spinner do you use? Thanks..
i saw some one did a 3d printed RC U-2. you would not have any where i can get it
Great to see you back with another nice plane. What do you use to paint your planes and can you recommend any decals? Thanks for your videos.
Thank you!! I use krylon paint and primer spray paint, and I use green frog tape to mask it off. I’ve found that works best for minimal bleeding. I design my own decals they can be kind of tricky so whenever I can I would rather use paint
Do you use full throttle in the Video?
No! About 50% throttle the entire time
Nice plane, seems like risk of prop being in down position during landing and causing a nose over
着陸の際に、プロペラは壊れないのですか。
I have been thinking about a FLSUN SR. I was wondering if you have run into any print problems with the size of print parts of the airplanes. Any advice would be appreciated!
Nice work.. Not sure I understand your motor mounts though. What if you want to change the motor? With that nice scale look, 3 blader prop ya? (they work fine with no LG)
I started 3d over a year ago after watching your channel. Thank you for your experience you share.
I am scratching my head on the plalw. I used the supplied gcodes with a skin that is so unforgiving to flying. Cracking wing in flight. I have a 3d lab print and eclipson models I tested. I also have used pla plus and have had great results. I am now working on a pet version Eclipson C. The model in this video is in plalw. I was wanting to build this one. Do you plan on trying in other materials?
What tempurature are you flying in?
@@azimuth9819 Pla is 220 and esun pla-lw is 135. Most of my planes I do a hybrid with front fuselage in pla and tail in pla-lw. Wing with both depends on CG.
@kevink.7697 no I meant the tempurature of your environment
Just started printing mine using the files they provided in Pursa Slicer, but it seems very very flimsy like vase mode 1 wall type printed, yours seems a lot more solid. Did you use PLA-LW? I swear something is wrong with mine
Do you have a preference between the design and build/print requirements for Eclipson models vs. 3Dlab models? Or, are they similar enough that there's really no noticeable difference in how they print and go together?
The 3 most recent 3dlabprint planes are designed to print and assemble really easily, the old designs are pretty difficult to print. Whereas all the eclipson planes are easy to print and assemble.
great flyer - congratulations
just one question: did you go straight to the gcode or use the prusa slicer?
I like aircraft. Did you build DC-10 or Boeing
I built an airbus! A321. I will definitely be building more airliners in the future! th-cam.com/video/0YSXmKaWG-M/w-d-xo.html that's my airliner video
Did you use Cura? Or did you manually modify their Gcode? I have not been able print planes from 3dlab. Dont wanna spend $150 on simply3d.
I am on the same page right with you. I have still not used anything other than Cura. For this build I sliced about half the files for the new printer, and used just the g codes with another one of my printers
I have just printed the 3d labs prints Mustang using PrusaSlicer 2.4
3d lab prints worked with Prusa to get a new setting in for their models. They have a video on their YT channel showing how to use the new settings with a download able profile. I was able to print the Mustang part all individually. Had a couple of failures but that was more my fault. Prusa Slicer is free as well. I did upgrade my CR-10 V2 to a direct drive as well which I think helped a lot with stringing. I used normal PLA for the whole build. Haven't glued it together yet have some other projects to finish first. Hope that helps
rcKeith
What program did you guys use for 3d modelling?
Hey Troy, how do you print out the ailerons L/R1 and L/R2. If I want to print them out in surface mode, I only get the outline of the rudder horn!
what happened with your flashforge printer?
I still use it, it is just in the corner of my room!
Can you please make a big Douglass dc3 it’s my favourite plane and I would like to see you do that
Hi, thanks a lot for the video, it really makes me want to start designing the Zero!
But I have some questions:
- For the music wires, do I need a specific one?
- Is it ok if I use a regular glue without accelerator?
- Do you have any examples of other compatible radio controller?
Thank you very much for your answers,
Alex
For the music wire, I use 1.19mm that is the size you need
Regular medium CA glue is what works best, no accelerator required!
There are a few other radios I have heard from others that work well! amzn.to/3t9KiH9 or
amzn.to/3GE6pe4
Hey Troy, currently printing the zero but I am unsure on some of the print details like top and bottom layers, the 3d lab print pdf does not specifically mention print settings the way eclipsing does. Is there any way to find this information or trial and error?
Hey! They don't list that on the PDF, they prefer you to use the already sliced g codes, but those don't always work for your specific printer. Basically, all the fuselage parts, wing section, stabilizer are all 0 top/bottom layer and 0 infill. The only parts with top/bottom layers are ailerons and elevator, usually use 4 bottom layers and 3 top layers if the parts ever need it
Have you ever wonder to print a glider with flexible filament? I'm a begginner on 3d print and maybe its a foolish idea, but for me that dont have any RC components seems nice to have a plane that I only have to throw and get it fliying without the fear of get it creashed on the first flying.
did yu use crazy glue ?
I use zap a gap medium ca+ glue. But pretty much any ca glue works
@@TroyMcMillan thanks for your fast answer
Hey Troy, really enjoying the videos, thank you. I have question for you. I'm trying to print my first model, I'm using eSun lw-pla, the walls so far look great with no stringing but as the print flattens out over the top of the cowl it opens up leaving large gaps between the filament. How do I get around this.? Regards Glenn
Were you able to sort this out? If not, the cowling needs to be printed out of regular PLA, and I also turned down the layer heights to 0.12mm to have better print quality on the nose
Muy muuy bueno! Me encantó como vuela, creo que es el aeromodelo en 3D que más me gustó! Felicitaciones! A disfrutaar 👏👏😀
That 3d printer is awesome I've been looking at it for awhile but I already have the flsun delta pro it's a fast printer and it's bigger that's why I haven't got yours how much of the filament roll did it take to make the whole roll half or what
maybe 1/4 of a roll, you can barely tell I used any filament by looking at the spool
@@TroyMcMillan wow thats not bad I think I'm going to get some
Have you done a ME-109 build ?
Hey I noticed you used a different spinner from what comes with the model files from 3Dlab prints. just wondering where you got it?
It says to print the motor mount with PETG. I'm wondering if you actually use PETG? Or by chance did you have to use nylon ABS ASA or did you just print with standard PLA?
Hi, great video it made me want to print this plane. I do have an issue I wanted to ask about. When I print the fuselage cowl, no matter what Cura removes the brackets on the inside of the cowl. Any ideas on why this is happening? Thank you
Awesome build. If you could tell me how much it costed you for the whole project, I will make one for myself. I have 3d printer and light weight PLA filament. Please reply.
You'll need a battery, transmitter and receiver, and about 50usd in basic electronics
Really nice print as usual!
Is that the standard spinner? My files for the spinner print look different (and don't print well).
I think I'll try the 2200 3S as well, the 1500 is way tail heavy.
I had the same issues with the spinner, so I ended up using a different spinner I had files for. I didn't want to use that battery because I was worried it would be too heavy but it worked so well, I definitely recommend it
@@TroyMcMillan Hi Troy, thank you for the detailed assembly video. I really like the spinner you used. Where can I buy or download the STL files for it?
Impreso con boquilla 04 o 06?