God as a cable technician, I wish every customer knew this. Too many don’t and cry about there internet speeds not showing. Try explaining this to most I come across but most don’t even understand how to connect to there wifi 😂. Wi-Fi isn’t always the best in certain types of homes people just assume there services providers modems are a one sizes fits all. Damn sellsman!!
Great project, good video! Two recommendations to add polish to your new network: 1. At 5:27 that RJ45 crimp was not optimal. The cable jacket should extend all the way into the plug and under the “strain bar”. When the plug is crimped, the cable jacket should be crimped under the strain bar. 2. At 12:38 there are dangling cables near your switch. Best practice calls for Permanent Ethernet cable runs (called drops) to be terminated with a patch panel on one end and then terminated to a keystone jack on the remote end. Consider re-routing and terminating the cables near the switch into an inexpensive 12-port patch panel, leaving you expansion capacity to add cable runs later. Cable Matters makes an excellent 12-port patch panel, cost is less than $24. Good choice on the TrueCable cat 6 cable, BTW. Excellent quality cable.
These are great recommendations. I do believe that a patch panel isn't necessary if there's less than 8 lines. Just a wall plate or two with 4-6 keystone jacks should suffice. Or even a pass through wall plate with every cable end terminated with an rj45 keystone is good enough. But if he does end up running a lot more cables, then a patch panel, preferably keystone type, would be recommended
Here’s a tip….those twisted cables, that blue extra piece you used to untwist the pairs, use that same thing to insert into each curled wire, pinch and pull, straightens the curled wires…..could’ve saved you all that time you used to try and straighten them out individulally with your fingers….literally
you want that outer cable jacket also inside the crimp. Low voltage ethernet cables should be away from the higher AC supply lines so as to maximize the effective shielding & twists. In your video showing cables in stairwell I can see the ehternet cables touching what appears to be an AC supply line.
I read all the comments, and I did watch the video in its entirety. I wired my house completely for internet, I also did my sister's mobile home. I used cat 6 in my house and cat 5 in my sister's house. I did like some people are suggesting in these comments, I did use a keystone and a wall plate at each room. In fact none of my cabling has got an and crimped on to it like you did here. I would recommend replacing those ends with, even where the wireless access points are.
i may not ever have a use for this but, i suddenly want to run ethernet cables through my house. fun little project. idk how u make everything entertaining.
Something i did to my home to run my ethernet cables from attic to basement floor was running some non metallic smurf tubing thru the walls I did next to my return duct and also label ur cables to the locations so they can be together an neat, also by having that tube u have a way that if u wanted to add more cables in the future it's a simple drop down the pipe and ur good
The speed check at the end was SO satisfying! Thanks for this very detailed video. I might just do it! (and the Catholic Conversion therapy camp joke was hilarious!)
Just what i was looking to do. Simple diy. Almost every video was some intricate hub. This is just a really long custom cable you can hide and run straight to your router or Ethernet switch if you need more ports than your router has. Tysm.
i loath cable boots. makes it hard to depress the clip to remove the cable from a switch, etc. i use a mini flat head screw driver to separate the pairs of conductors. soo much faster. do NOT use pass-through rj45 ends on outdoor applications. also, when crimping an rj45, ensure the outer jacket (blue in this case) is inside of the rj45 connector.
I bought a house that had an ethernet/phone junction box - it was cat3. I got so frustrated I tore it down. Now-a-days, I have the setup you're discussing. I went through upgrading to cat5, 6 and now I'm stringing cat 8 although I don't have those speeds yet (externally), but soon.
This is a nice video but I have a couple suggestions to improve your network. Always run at least two lines to each wall drop or a pull string if you anticipate adding more later. I know switches exist but you can't always rely on a single line to last forever. It's always better to have some redundancy, whether it's a room with multiple jacks or multiple lines behind each jack. I've had two of my single network lines in different rooms fail on me and that wasn't fun to deal with. Pull string helps allows you to run new wires to an existing location without removing the existing wires or fishing the new wire. It's very convenient and cheap insurance, especially when the drop has insulation. You kept saying how annoying and tedious it is to run networking, which I completely agree. So you definitely don't wanna go back to your attic, fish a new wire over and over again. Also, I prefer a keystone to keystone termination for both ends when using bulk cable. Keystones are way easier and faster to terminate. They allow lots of flexibility in positioning, especially in whatever network room your cables end up in
Yes, I did notice that he did not mention anything about using a 110 punch tool and a keystone. For running inside the wall that is absolutely the best practice.
When I wired my house up I got lucky.I have three closets over top of each other.. I ran a piece of 2" PVC pipe down t the back corner of each closet to the basement. I Relocated my router to the main floor. in the basement and top floors I installed a 16 port switch in each closet with a line leading othte oruter on the main floor. The cables for the jacks on each floor go to a small patch panel in the closet with a line to the switch. Final step was a fire upgrade fro my telecom. I had them run the fiber cable from their demarc through the wall and to my router in the closet in the basement and up to my router on the main floor. It was run along the ceiling along the rafters in a short section of innerduct (Fiber glass conduit I happened to have acquired once upon a time to the basement closet then up to the router. basement jacks got wired to a patch panel and switch down there with a single line leading to the router (Router had 5 ports on it. THis minimised my cabling between floors and ensured the wi-fi fro the router was centrally located n the house. Wi-Fi 6 is highly reliable for mose houses. I only wired my office and the tv locations. Everyhting else is wi-fi. If I need more access points its easy to do on each floor. I wire it otthe switch on that floor. I might change the switched to POE eventually.,
You know for all the good and bad pretty good presentation. Good on PPE. This job always a pita. I may try using coax since house has cable co-ax throughout. That I am not using as I Stream and use antennae for TV.
Do switches need a power source? Maybe there's no electrical outlet in the attic. My guess is it's easier access in the basement, and more temp controlled.
Great video! I also thought about doing something like this but I live in a small village with 500 people and our ISP can only provide us with 25 Mbps max. I think it would be unnecessary at that speed because I can also get the same results over Wifi.
I would use the jacket you just pulled off and squeeze the individual cables between it once or swipe before trying to put them in their order. You will get a much straighter cable and don’t have to worry about them getting out of order when straightening them all at the same time.
Thank you internet stranger! It was done over the span of a few days on and off. We first did all the dry wall work, drilled holes and made the paths for the cables. Then all the wiring was done in one day
I am about to install several IP cameras outside our house, connected to an NVR-router-modem. Your willingness to undertake your project with no experience is very encouraging for many of us who likewise just want to give it a try. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
@@crietonfightin899 I mean the convenience factor of not having to drill holes in your wall to run cable is the best part. Also I didn't buy moca adapters straight up. I bought old Verizon G1100 routers on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace for like $10 each and reprogrammed them into "bridge mode" so they're basically just moca adapters and wireless hotspots instead of routers. Saved a ton of money. Fairly easy to do too.
@@crietonfightin899More expensive, yes, but depends on the run and how complicated it is or if doing yourself. If paying someone, it might be worth it. Or try powerline adapters. I have had both good and bad luck with them. Just depends on your wiring.
...came to say this as well: The mechanical pressure point should be crimped on top of about ~1/8" in of the jacket, NOT on the wires themselves! This way any mechanical 'pulling' of the cable is done against the jacket and NOT the wires - any search on 'proper CAT6 jack termination' would show many examples...
did you have to use a wifi router for this project? can you hardwire the entire house and just use the modem ? i,m wanting to hardwire without the wifi router because my modem is in my living room which means my wifi router is just next to me.
If your running cables in walls you should terminate them to keystones on your walls and to a patch panel by your switch and either make or buy a fairly in expensive set of patch cables for everything
Since i didn't see mention of it in the comments (short and simple ones at least) i will mention it, you're supposed to push the jacket all the way into the connector before crimping it too, it's kinda like a strain relief for the copper wires at the pins.
i wonder if CAT 7 would have been better to use when you think about that it can do 10 Gbps to not only give full 1Gbps but to have 10 Gbps if need like one day if some ISPs would strat selling 10 Gbps in like 5 or 10 yeasr from now
@@adamdavis2788if you're doing as minimal runs as he did, then no. If you're doing many runs (>8) or want something more future proof then definitely.
The only thing I would have suggested is run more than 1 cable per room. I would have done 2 minimum. Who wants to have to grab a 5port switch to plug up their PC and TV? It looked like there was enough space and enough cable to run more than 4 total. That's just me though.
This is a great idea! I'm trying to get my stepson into computers since he loves video games (right now he just wants it to work he doesn't care how). I never had a chance to learn growing up so maybe I'll get him to help me. Question, the access points are they WAP? I was confused since you were hard wiring everything, are these just to spread a wifi signal throughout the house? I just got a mesh network through my IP and I'm still learning. Maybe I can expand the mesh network while adding hardlines?
Yes, in having a WAP located at different points in the house, you are creating a mesh network. And if you have your waps connect to hardline, it will be stronger.
@@funky7522 From my experience of wiring my entire house with CAT6 and making patch cable for CAT 5e, I would say that they worked pretty well. For the oxidization, it depends on the moisture content of the surrounding that they're currently working in. At the end of the day, all connectors at least "passed" the standard of RJ45 and CAT standard; just use a high quality RJ45 wall jacks with good cables then you're good to go.
Lol. We exclusively use pass through connectors and have for 15+ years in a school district. They’re fine and easier to make a good crimp for most people. Don’t plug them in before crimping, and no short. That being said, I have crimped with them plugged in with no issues. I just wouldn’t recommend it.
@@farmeunitIn my school district we got rid of them specifically for the problems just mentioned especially when we put things into the hands of contractors.
When doing speed tests, we got the correct speeds that we payed for from our ISP. We didn't look for any special active cables, just the cable shown in the video
Why is the WiFi connection has very slow connection than the wired one? Is it because the WiFi is blocked with so many walls? That’s a 2782% improvement
Gosh I wish I could run ethernet cables through my house walls but sadly its impossible since where I live, buildings are made of pure blocks covered in a concrete layer. I call it imposibble cause even though it can be done, it really more complicated and it would cost even more
@@JJFlores197 They're cheap...enterprise level devices that are old and it uses 1gig or 10 gig port. It's dirt cheap for small switches and media converters.
@@JJFlores197 it doesn't have to be a consumer level device. You can buy enterprise old tech that are cheap. You buy the switch and run the proper fiber cable. You can get 10g upload and download within your network.
Why do you say that? You most certainly can put an RJ45 on a riser cable. Riser cables are one of the most common cables used for wall runs. The method of termination also has no effect on the final outcome- Atleast not one that will ever be noticeable in a residential install. What you are describing is a corporate standard blueprint for network installs. This guy does not have a corporate IDF setup with patch panels and switches.
The cables are basically identical. Riser just has a toxic jacket if burned. Plenum is for certain applications. Still functionally identical to patch cables and can be custom lengths…
Cable boots are the worst, I don't know why they're even around still I don't recommend them at all. Over the years those tabs harden almost like a rock making it extremely hard to press with your thumbs to release cables from a switch or wall outlet. In some cases I've had to use a blade to cut them in order to get to the tab to release the cable.
God as a cable technician, I wish every customer knew this. Too many don’t and cry about there internet speeds not showing. Try explaining this to most I come across but most don’t even understand how to connect to there wifi 😂. Wi-Fi isn’t always the best in certain types of homes people just assume there services providers modems are a one sizes fits all. Damn sellsman!!
😆 sounds like a lot of tough phone calls lol
Great project, good video! Two recommendations to add polish to your new network: 1. At 5:27 that RJ45 crimp was not optimal. The cable jacket should extend all the way into the plug and under the “strain bar”. When the plug is crimped, the cable jacket should be crimped under the strain bar. 2. At 12:38 there are dangling cables near your switch. Best practice calls for Permanent Ethernet cable runs (called drops) to be terminated with a patch panel on one end and then terminated to a keystone jack on the remote end. Consider re-routing and terminating the cables near the switch into an inexpensive 12-port patch panel, leaving you expansion capacity to add cable runs later. Cable Matters makes an excellent 12-port patch panel, cost is less than $24. Good choice on the TrueCable cat 6 cable, BTW. Excellent quality cable.
… forgot to mention … then connect short patch cables from the patch panel to the switch. Again, great project, we’ll worth all the work.
@@pawpaw7646 Thank you for this great advice! I actually ended up implementing a patch panel into my new house, but I forgot to record that process 😅
These are great recommendations. I do believe that a patch panel isn't necessary if there's less than 8 lines. Just a wall plate or two with 4-6 keystone jacks should suffice. Or even a pass through wall plate with every cable end terminated with an rj45 keystone is good enough.
But if he does end up running a lot more cables, then a patch panel, preferably keystone type, would be recommended
Here’s a tip….those twisted cables, that blue extra piece you used to untwist the pairs, use that same thing to insert into each curled wire, pinch and pull, straightens the curled wires…..could’ve saved you all that time you used to try and straighten them out individulally with your fingers….literally
he's already done bro
@@CarAudioInc😂😂😂😂
@@CarAudioInc Sure, but this is good info for others trying to do the same thing.
@@FollowRevolutionNine yeah cause heaven forbid someone sees this comment and actually gets some helpful tips other than what the video showed…lol
No question it was worth it, that speed increase 🤯
you want that outer cable jacket also inside the crimp. Low voltage ethernet cables should be away from the higher AC supply lines so as to maximize the effective shielding & twists. In your video showing cables in stairwell I can see the ehternet cables touching what appears to be an AC supply line.
Thank you for that helpful info!
I read all the comments, and I did watch the video in its entirety. I wired my house completely for internet, I also did my sister's mobile home. I used cat 6 in my house and cat 5 in my sister's house. I did like some people are suggesting in these comments, I did use a keystone and a wall plate at each room. In fact none of my cabling has got an and crimped on to it like you did here. I would recommend replacing those ends with, even where the wireless access points are.
Great tips. Thanks. I thought making my own câbles was hard but looking at what you did, it seems easier than I thought. So thank you!
Had a field tech from my ISP do this for $80 back in 2017, then another run for $90 in 2021. Good to know the ins and outs of how it’s done.
Didn't know you could get the ISP to do this. if the install was already done will they do this? My system was installed about a year ago
i may not ever have a use for this but, i suddenly want to run ethernet cables through my house. fun little project. idk how u make everything entertaining.
it's definitely worth the high internet speeds compared to wifi
Definitely not fun, but speeds and reliability would make it worth it.
Going thru floors is always fun
Something i did to my home to run my ethernet cables from attic to basement floor was running some non metallic smurf tubing thru the walls I did next to my return duct and also label ur cables to the locations so they can be together an neat, also by having that tube u have a way that if u wanted to add more cables in the future it's a simple drop down the pipe and ur good
Those are great ideas!
Would the Smurf tubing be used throughout all the connections or just basically in between floors??
The speed check at the end was SO satisfying! Thanks for this very detailed video. I might just do it! (and the Catholic Conversion therapy camp joke was hilarious!)
😄Glad you enjoyed, let me know if you ended up doing this
Just what i was looking to do. Simple diy. Almost every video was some intricate hub. This is just a really long custom cable you can hide and run straight to your router or Ethernet switch if you need more ports than your router has. Tysm.
glad you found it helpful, simple stuff is great 😄
this was actually super interesting to watch
😄glad you enjoyed
i loath cable boots. makes it hard to depress the clip to remove the cable from a switch, etc. i use a mini flat head screw driver to separate the pairs of conductors. soo much faster. do NOT use pass-through rj45 ends on outdoor applications. also, when crimping an rj45, ensure the outer jacket (blue in this case) is inside of the rj45 connector.
That Zelda score🔥🔥🔥 I have the SAME playlist saved in my library👌👌
I bought a house that had an ethernet/phone junction box - it was cat3. I got so frustrated I tore it down. Now-a-days, I have the setup you're discussing. I went through upgrading to cat5, 6 and now I'm stringing cat 8 although I don't have those speeds yet (externally), but soon.
I did fiber instead of cat 8 for the main runs. SFP and SFP28 ports for the win.
This is a nice video but I have a couple suggestions to improve your network.
Always run at least two lines to each wall drop or a pull string if you anticipate adding more later. I know switches exist but you can't always rely on a single line to last forever. It's always better to have some redundancy, whether it's a room with multiple jacks or multiple lines behind each jack. I've had two of my single network lines in different rooms fail on me and that wasn't fun to deal with.
Pull string helps allows you to run new wires to an existing location without removing the existing wires or fishing the new wire. It's very convenient and cheap insurance, especially when the drop has insulation.
You kept saying how annoying and tedious it is to run networking, which I completely agree. So you definitely don't wanna go back to your attic, fish a new wire over and over again.
Also, I prefer a keystone to keystone termination for both ends when using bulk cable. Keystones are way easier and faster to terminate. They allow lots of flexibility in positioning, especially in whatever network room your cables end up in
These are really good suggestions
Yes, I did notice that he did not mention anything about using a 110 punch tool and a keystone. For running inside the wall that is absolutely the best practice.
How big of a hole did you need to drill to get three cables through the stairwell floors?
When I wired my house up I got lucky.I have three closets over top of each other.. I ran a piece of 2" PVC pipe down t the back corner of each closet to the basement. I Relocated my router to the main floor. in the basement and top floors I installed a 16 port switch in each closet with a line leading othte oruter on the main floor. The cables for the jacks on each floor go to a small patch panel in the closet with a line to the switch. Final step was a fire upgrade fro my telecom. I had them run the fiber cable from their demarc through the wall and to my router in the closet in the basement and up to my router on the main floor. It was run along the ceiling along the rafters in a short section of innerduct (Fiber glass conduit I happened to have acquired once upon a time to the basement closet then up to the router. basement jacks got wired to a patch panel and switch down there with a single line leading to the router (Router had 5 ports on it. THis minimised my cabling between floors and ensured the wi-fi fro the router was centrally located n the house. Wi-Fi 6 is highly reliable for mose houses. I only wired my office and the tv locations. Everyhting else is wi-fi. If I need more access points its easy to do on each floor. I wire it otthe switch on that floor. I might change the switched to POE eventually.,
You know for all the good and bad pretty good presentation. Good on PPE. This job always a pita. I may try using coax since house has cable co-ax throughout. That I am not using as I Stream and use antennae for TV.
Great video! Curious to know why not just run one cable from the basement to the attic and have a switch at the attic space
Do switches need a power source? Maybe there's no electrical outlet in the attic. My guess is it's easier access in the basement, and more temp controlled.
Great video! I also thought about doing something like this but I live in a small village with 500 people and our ISP can only provide us with 25 Mbps max. I think it would be unnecessary at that speed because I can also get the same results over Wifi.
You may be able to get the same results over wi-fi, but Wi-Fi can drop whereas ethernet does not drop unless the ISP drops.
Bumper cap! Genius! Ive bloodied my head from protruding roofing nails too many times.
I would use the jacket you just pulled off and squeeze the individual cables between it once or swipe before trying to put them in their order. You will get a much straighter cable and don’t have to worry about them getting out of order when straightening them all at the same time.
That's a good tip!
Good job to u and ur brother. So convenient having your room wired :) was it a weekend project? Or a couple weekends?
Thank you internet stranger! It was done over the span of a few days on and off. We first did all the dry wall work, drilled holes and made the paths for the cables. Then all the wiring was done in one day
I am about to install several IP cameras outside our house, connected to an NVR-router-modem. Your willingness to undertake your project with no experience is very encouraging for many of us who likewise just want to give it a try. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
11:34 That MS Paint graphic - I love it 😂
MS Paint is the goat
"We found this black wire just dangling in our wall".......people don't know what coax is anymore?! Ugh my knees hurt now
lol i know what coax is, that's just how i like to talk
I'm a big fan of MoCA. No need to run Cat 6 if you have coax already installed.
Isn’t the price difference significant tho? Really contemplating between the two as the rooms I was want direct connection to have coax
@@crietonfightin899 I mean the convenience factor of not having to drill holes in your wall to run cable is the best part. Also I didn't buy moca adapters straight up. I bought old Verizon G1100 routers on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace for like $10 each and reprogrammed them into "bridge mode" so they're basically just moca adapters and wireless hotspots instead of routers. Saved a ton of money. Fairly easy to do too.
@@crietonfightin899More expensive, yes, but depends on the run and how complicated it is or if doing yourself. If paying someone, it might be worth it. Or try powerline adapters. I have had both good and bad luck with them. Just depends on your wiring.
This was a lot of fun to watch, Thank You. Keep it up, subscribed.
Friends don't let friends make male ends. Keystones/patch panels and factory made patch cables, my friends!
You patch up those drywall holes?
yea lol
Great video my dude. Very informational and helps out a bunch;
I'm glad it was helpful!
Awesome video. May I ask what access point model you used?
You needed a FLEX BIT & FISHING TAP
The blue part of the cable should be crimped as well to avoid breaking it
...came to say this as well: The mechanical pressure point should be crimped on top of about ~1/8" in of the jacket, NOT on the wires themselves! This way any mechanical 'pulling' of the cable is done against the jacket and NOT the wires - any search on 'proper CAT6 jack termination' would show many examples...
Are those AP43s?
did you have to use a wifi router for this project? can you hardwire the entire house and just use the modem ? i,m wanting to hardwire without the wifi router because my modem is in my living room which means my wifi router is just next to me.
Your phone and laptops (on the couch) love using the Wifi Access Points. If more than one, make sure each WAP is wired so it can run at full speed.
Great info. I was just hoping for a list of links to the tools and materials used instead of audio/video gear... :/
@Funky nice video. What's the model of your setup's MIST WAP?
If your running cables in walls you should terminate them to keystones on your walls and to a patch panel by your switch and either make or buy a fairly in expensive set of patch cables for everything
Since i didn't see mention of it in the comments (short and simple ones at least) i will mention it, you're supposed to push the jacket all the way into the connector before crimping it too, it's kinda like a strain relief for the copper wires at the pins.
Thanks for providing that helpful information
Hell ya Juniper equipment
i wonder if CAT 7 would have been better to use when you think about that it can do 10 Gbps to not only give full 1Gbps but to have 10 Gbps if need like one day if some ISPs would strat selling 10 Gbps in like 5 or 10 yeasr from now
Unofficially Cat5e can run 10G at about 50-60ft without error. That covers lots of runs in a small house.
MoCA is THE way to go in older homes. I've used it for 15 years. No issues.
MoCA works super well. But tearing out old coax poorly run by cable techs and running fresh cat6 feels so right
No patch pannel?
Do you think it’s necessary in this situation?
@@adamdavis2788if you're doing as minimal runs as he did, then no. If you're doing many runs (>8) or want something more future proof then definitely.
At the very least, keystones.
You should run 2 drops per room for redundancy.
That's a very good suggestion!
300th subscriber❤
The only thing I would have suggested is run more than 1 cable per room. I would have done 2 minimum. Who wants to have to grab a 5port switch to plug up their PC and TV? It looked like there was enough space and enough cable to run more than 4 total. That's just me though.
Why did you terminate the cables with RJ45's and not do a simple patch bay?
instructions got too complicated. I ended up in the desert with a dog bowl
ya u probably didn't get the wires in the correct order
i ended up on epstiens island
This is a great idea! I'm trying to get my stepson into computers since he loves video games (right now he just wants it to work he doesn't care how). I never had a chance to learn growing up so maybe I'll get him to help me. Question, the access points are they WAP? I was confused since you were hard wiring everything, are these just to spread a wifi signal throughout the house? I just got a mesh network through my IP and I'm still learning. Maybe I can expand the mesh network while adding hardlines?
Yes, in having a WAP located at different points in the house, you are creating a mesh network. And if you have your waps connect to hardline, it will be stronger.
If you wanna get him into that stuff, I suggest you help him build a gaming computer. Assuming he's only on console
Haha funny guy! Thanks for the video. In some weeks I will start this project plus outside AP. My problem is…. I don’t have drywall, just masonry 😅🤙
Masonry will be a little more challenging 😅, let me know how it goes
Veritasium?
I dont recommend pass-through connectors, they have a high chance of shorting and the copper will oxidize which makes the connector unusable
I didn't know that
@@funky7522 From my experience of wiring my entire house with CAT6 and making patch cable for CAT 5e, I would say that they worked pretty well. For the oxidization, it depends on the moisture content of the surrounding that they're currently working in. At the end of the day, all connectors at least "passed" the standard of RJ45 and CAT standard; just use a high quality RJ45 wall jacks with good cables then you're good to go.
Lol. We exclusively use pass through connectors and have for 15+ years in a school district. They’re fine and easier to make a good crimp for most people. Don’t plug them in before crimping, and no short. That being said, I have crimped with them plugged in with no issues. I just wouldn’t recommend it.
@@funky7522if you are not using then for outdoor work I wouldnt sweat.
@@farmeunitIn my school district we got rid of them specifically for the problems just mentioned especially when we put things into the hands of contractors.
Do you need to buy some sort of "active" cables for such long cables? If not, did you suffer dropped speeds from what your actual ISP provides?
When doing speed tests, we got the correct speeds that we payed for from our ISP. We didn't look for any special active cables, just the cable shown in the video
You can go over 300 feet, if done correctly.
Why is the WiFi connection has very slow connection than the wired one? Is it because the WiFi is blocked with so many walls? That’s a 2782% improvement
Currently achievable: Fiber (qsfp-dd) 400G. Cat6/7 10G. Wifi is an order of magnitude slower.
Great video mate.
Gosh I wish I could run ethernet cables through my house walls but sadly its impossible since where I live, buildings are made of pure blocks covered in a concrete layer. I call it imposibble cause even though it can be done, it really more complicated and it would cost even more
Reason why you are using all Juniper? Instead of ubiquiti or cisco? Just curious lol.
Just the equipment we had, no particular reason
This is why new houses pre add ethernet cables before walls since it's 1000% easier.
Fun fact a lot of new home builders still don't.
@@luckycogstudiosI can confirm this. I’m here watching this video to do the work myself since my 2021 new build didn’t have it done lol
thanks dude, great video
I'm glad you liked it
Why run ethernet when you can future proof your network by using fiber optics?
I highly doubt any consumer-level electronic device will have fiber optic support.
@@JJFlores197 They're cheap...enterprise level devices that are old and it uses 1gig or 10 gig port. It's dirt cheap for small switches and media converters.
@@JJFlores197 it doesn't have to be a consumer level device. You can buy enterprise old tech that are cheap. You buy the switch and run the proper fiber cable. You can get 10g upload and download within your network.
Why?
If you go this route cat7 would have bin a way better option
I use the shaft of a screwdriver to straighten the cables
Ocarina title screen music!
Keep up the great work :)
Basement , middle floor, third floor?🤔
Third floor being the very top floor
Second floor?
@@ToddMoore1 2nd floor being the middle floor. First floor being the first/basement floor. I hope that helps clear up any confusion!
@@funky7522 clear as mud
Just goes to show ya hard beat hardwired vs wireless even today
DO NOT twist the wire stripper 3 TIMES. You only do it one full rotation or it can hurt the wires.
Thanks for the advice. When I was doing the cabling, I found that 3 times worked best for me, as doing less would not cut the rubber
@@funky7522 yeah, that happens, if you even Knick one of the twisted pairs it can cut down your speeds by a lot.
You are using the wrong type of cable to put RJ45 connectors on. Riser cable should be terminated into patch panels and keystone jacks.
Why do you say that? You most certainly can put an RJ45 on a riser cable. Riser cables are one of the most common cables used for wall runs. The method of termination also has no effect on the final outcome- Atleast not one that will ever be noticeable in a residential install. What you are describing is a corporate standard blueprint for network installs. This guy does not have a corporate IDF setup with patch panels and switches.
The cables are basically identical. Riser just has a toxic jacket if burned. Plenum is for certain applications. Still functionally identical to patch cables and can be custom lengths…
Cable boots are the worst, I don't know why they're even around still I don't recommend them at all. Over the years those tabs harden almost like a rock making it extremely hard to press with your thumbs to release cables from a switch or wall outlet. In some cases I've had to use a blade to cut them in order to get to the tab to release the cable.
How much Bitcoin are you mining?
loool none 😄
So no one going to bring up how fast his upload speed is with Cat6 cable?
Browse feature blessing you dawg come back and capitalize
Awesome. 😃😃😃
lil bros desk is the on q panel
Good video
Thank you
I think you are in over your heads LOL
loool
that attic precaution was insane. I go in mine raw lol
Even without ethernet you can still use phone jack internet
Should have used Cat6A
Just a tip for anyone doing this its easier to push the wires into the RJ45 if you cut all of them at once at a little angle
Now do through plaster
amazing. I'm hiring someone to do this though
You sound like Veritasium
bhai to pakistani ha❤❤
All cable is PVC covered, not plastic.
Thanks for that insight
Im in it for the ping
Change that smoke detector. Replace after 10years
yo, that smoke detector is probably 30+ years old.
Too much work for me. I'll just stick with the WiFi and cry about it. 🤣😂
catholic conversion camp 😂😂😂
This is a lot of work. 😢...wish I had your patience
It helps if you have someone to do the work with 😅
Pakistan Zindabad lol.
Gained a follow my pakistani brother
thank you brother 😄 but to be honest this channel is not very active
Never heard of a powerline eh?
Powerline sucks
@@johnnymathes5215 i use it and it's great.
You appear to have a firm grasp of the obvious.
You forgot powerline adapters.