Temperature Controller 220V AC Heater Homemade
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
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🔥Homemade temperature controller that works with 220VAC with a solid state relay and has some sort of PID control inside. Read the temperature from a thermocouple.
🔀LINKS
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Tutorial Page: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_...
Part list: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_...
Schematic: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_...
Code: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_...
3D STL case: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_...
🎬VIDEOS
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PID Temperature DC video: • PID temperature contro...
TRIAC & Thyristor: • Basic components #003 ...
TRIAC AC dimmer Bluetooth: • Bluetooth TRIAC AC pow...
PID Temperature AC video: • AC 220V Heater Tempera...
🤝SUPPORT
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00:00 Intro
02:07 Controller Teardown
05:17 The Solid State Relay
07:35 Components we need
09:30 Assemble the controller
11:43 Arduino Code
15:03 Outro
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#temperature
#controller
#PID - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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I have a question that as you are using a Small SSR 2A which has pwm signal pin but how you will connect a 40A SSR which doesn't have a 3 pins as input as it has only two terminal to power.
In schematic you hv mentioned of 2A SSR
so let me know how to use 40A SSR connection with Arduino!!!
Legends say that the banana is made up of special kind of electrical components, which keep it fresh for long time 😉😁
Made out of adamantium
The first controller type is usually called a "bang-bang" or "on-off" controller.
The second controller is most-likely PID; it just has a long sample period, and slow PWM/PFM output.
Replying to an old post but can confirm. The second one is a PID. It definitely has dynamic values because over the last year of use in my kiln I have noticed that the hysteresis has gone from +-10C when I first used it to +-5 and now it is around +-2C. In the kiln itself, it is probably not even noticeable. I think this is about as good as it is going to get because I have the feeling there is a fixed lead-lag compensation from the manufacturer for stability. I could probably confirm this if I cared enough to break out the port but +/-2C is good enough for me to not care enough.
Yeah, it's official.. this Is my favourite electronic Channel
Oh, official already? Thank you so much!
Thanks in large part to your previous TRIAC and PID control videos, I was able to create an ESP32-based reflow controller for a hot plate.
Hey there! Can you share it with me? Im looking for the same
Grazie. Il primo a fare finalmente un progetto così. Complimenti!
Cool. I built something similar a few years ago but didn't 100% finish. Mine controlled a fan in an attempt to adjust 'furnace' temp of my home built smoker. There is a video somewhere from a guy, Archie Wigglesworth, 🤔. Anyway, Archie uses a heater to 'burn' the wood and another to heat his oven. My method is to 'warm' smoke, then, crank up the heat to finish the meat. So, Archie's project fits with my method.
I just got my controller out of the 'unfinished' projects box. Ah, memories 🤭
You have given me some motivation to revisit this project again as I have some pork loin in the brine ready to go.
Very great project ! Nothing needed just to make your own PCB and make everything cooler
You are confusing on-off control and proportional control. Also it's very possible that the black commercial thermostat is doing pid control. It is just dividing a set period into on and off according to the output level calculated by the pid math. 2 sec off and 3 on equals 60 percent power for example. You don't need high frequency switching to do pid control on heating.
I wonder if all this can be replaced by a simple analog circuit with an op amp and a timing capacitor - PID is great, but for heating an element?
Still I would love it he Electronoobs would explain his PID code a little more.
Electronic control of tankless water heater: Use a PID? SSR vs SCR?
I have an 8KW Atmor tankless water heater that has two switched heating elements. I want to add stable electronic temperature control. But I can't find good information about the different options!
Seems the PID + SSR MAY have longer switching time, and that MAY reduce heating element life from thermal cycling vs a higher speed SCR. But I am having trouble finding the real answer.
Love from Bangladesh 🇧🇩
I love your way to explain anything
Your videos always give knowledge to me. I wish that you upload more and more such videos.
The power rating of Fotek SSRs are seriously overstated. See Big Clive's tear-down video.
Thank you! This was what I was looking for!
Great video! It is very clear and easy to understand. I just have two questions regarding my project:
I would like to power two 24V-90W cartridge heater. Is a (max.) 2A 240V SSR enough?
I have found a PID controller that can provide a 3A 250V output, do I even need the SSR? Thank you
There's one thing I badly wish u make a tutorial of, AC power meter "real and imaginary power, current rms, voltage rms, power factor"
Plz make something like that 🙏
doubt: So as I understand unlike in the other video where the voltage was regulated, here the ac input remains the same but it is just switched. higher ontime means higher temperature and lower ontime means lover temperature?
Keep on 💪🏼
This content helps a lot
Nice. Happy to hear that!
Very cool project, it would be nice to be able to change P,I, and D values from a menu. Regards from Buenos Aires!
Helpful video. I liked it
@Electronoobs I really like your videos especially when they are about AC power control. I just have a question, don't you have a problem with an unisolated thermocouple head attached to an electric conducting surface, like for example the heating element stainless steel surface, where the measured temperature gets drifted because of increasing cold junction area?
a while back i made my own custom Thermostat using a ESP32. it was loads and loads of fun. first i replicated the existing (simple) thermostat... made a 3d printed shell for it... then i added the wifi... then the bluetooth... then added scheduling... then voice control (IFTTT)... turns out that the old "Dumb" thermostat used an atmega32 chip :)
Very nice project
Nice job!
Really, a filament extruder is next? Neat. For recycling filament?
I thought of doing that but the price of filament is too cheap, I dont generate enough waste to warrant one. I don't think I could ever make it pay for itself vs parts expense and time building it. I still save my waste just in case. In 2 years I haven't filled a 18 letter/5 gallon bucket. But the cool factor of building it MAY be worth it. Hope you do that, I'm interested-especially to see the quality you obtain.
Cool project. Thanks!
I'm worried these fast switching cycles may burn out the solid state relay prematurely. how would you change the code and sacrifice a small bit of precision, but slow the switching frequency as low as possible?
Nice topic 👍🏻, I hope you post a video about multi threading with Arduino 😉
I'm watching your vids on this topic with interest, and linking to the parts on taobao for later purchase 😀 However, I'm curios, have you looked into multi-step "ramp/soak" programming of the controller; or touchscreen control; or wifi/bluetooth control? Also, is ther an iPhone app for developing an interface for the controller? I'm a bona fide noob and would like to know more.
Nice, I loved it ❤
hi what difference i need to do to work with 40 amp ssr you saw to your video?
Interesting project and great video.
Also wanted to know when will you be updating the MPPT solar charger prototype. Like to see new and improved product 🙂
I am using it with a coil heater. The problem is the material which sticks to the coil which heats up from the heater has a maximum allowable temperature which comes in contact of it. Now I have two choices---attach the theromocouple to the heater and that makes sure it stays at required temperature of 37 d Celsius. Or, connect it to the liquid bath I am connecting heater to, but that makes the heater overshoot to over 50 degrees. This creates a problem with the material the heater is in directly contact with.
How can I make sure that I get to 37 inside the chamber in this case, and still define a maximum temperature the heater needs to get to? Probably two thermocouples? One for the heating element, and one for the liquid inside the bath.
i need help, i did everything exactly you do but got a problem with SSR. it doesn't do anything, temperature is rising and SSR is not controlling anything yet
A really interesting video !
hi ! How did you store your temperature value into eeprom ? thank you
Nice tutorial.. really.. how is it possible to tune the PID controller?
Can I use an arduino uno instead of the arduino pro mini and what do I need to do?
great job !
Excellent.
Now I know why some led light bulbs flicker when dimmed.
How to use this circuit to control a dimmer and adjust the brightness of the lamp without flickering?
you have very good channel and syllabus but i think the tutorial site can be improved since your strategy is to make short videos with details written in tutorial. The pictures are not lining up to context and not labeled. Sometimes need a lot of reread to understand what you try to show in the pictures. Anyways, thanks and was very helpful to me!
Hi Friend, what SSR PWM should I set if my heater is 60hz? (US).
Interesting, thanks for the video ❤️
Glad you like it!
Hi your video is so awesome!! My SSR workers when the input signal is High, can you tell me what I need to change in order to make it work thanks a million! :)
hello sir, what if i only want to power on the heater with another start button
hello sir!
Very informative video
Sir, I just wanted to prepare a controlled heater that displays up to 300 degrees Celcius. what are the components I have to purchase?
Great video! I wish the MAX31865 was used. Can we do a follow up with a PT1000 probe:)?
Informative vedio
Why you used void cool_down (void){. .. }
Instead of void cool_down(){ .. }
I didn't see anywhere where you sense Hysteresis.
Hi Mr how to set 3 of different set point in the code instead of manually press button
thanks
Could this PID mount to an Espresso machine??!
Comienza el reciclado de filamento👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Wow this is really cool. I wish you could spend a little more time explaining the code.
please brother what software you use for animation
Make e video for how to correctly tune the pid value.i think its very used full
Heating elements are slow, so you should use pulse skip modulation instead.
Thank you sir for awsome toturials, I am trying to build a three vesel brewing system using PIDs, and I am pretty new to arduino. Here is my qustion; can I use a single arduino uno to control three separate heating elements?
In principle, yes. The arduino allow you to use pins 3, 5, 6, 9, 10 or 11 as PWM output. Since, for brewing, the elements aren't operated simultaneously, then all should be a matter of programming the device.
Great project. As always. Just one thing. I don't think using the infrared digital thermometer on a shiny metal like that gives you an accurate read out. At least that is what I understand. Correct me if I'm wrong.
You are right. Better tape some black tape and measure.
do you have the wireing diagram?
I request you to please start Arduino programming series please
Or suggest something
I'm a bit confused on how you denounced the push buttons. I made a multimeter and had the problem of push button bouncing when I used external interrupts in my code.
I would be really nice if you make a video on push button denouncing.
Thank you
you can do it in code - there are examples around the internet BUT it is lengthy, so it takes up memory and can slow execution. Better IMHO to do it in hardware - the most simple way [though not always the best] is just a bypass cap wired in parallel with the switch - again many examples on the internet
@@kennmossman8701 Thanks mate!!!
Can we make a tutorial pid with pt100 and max31865??
Sit please make a temperature control module like ac control where higher 20 degree Celsius the AC is turn on after certain gap down temperature at 14 degrees celsius AC will turn off.
Be careful with the cheap Fotek SSR from Aliexpress. They are mostly fake ones definetly not being able to switch the indicated Amps!
Yes, but many are quite OK once you derate them. BigClive has done a teardown of a couple of them I believe. Many of them do also have a driver chip with built-in zero-crossing detection. I got a few of them with 25A rating, but opened one to confirm that BTA12 triac in there (12A max). Apart from that it had good insulation/ separation, but barely any podding.
thanks coool
What's up my friend 😊👍
welcome back :)
Why do we need 12V DC?
👌👌
Maybe SSR-10LA would make the previous video simpler.
Can i use the omron SSR to run heater with 24V AC Load?
an themax current for my heater wire is 2.75 Amperes
Can I use ntc to read temperature instant of thermocouple
Sure you can, as long as the NTC covers the temperature range you will be using. The temperature sampling code needs to be adapted, of course
If you wanted to add a timer to your project (for instance, homebrewing system) then certainly atmega 328 can not handle all of this especially with the OLED display together.
Sure it can..I've done it. Display + RTC + one pin output and 2/3 inputs is not difficult for it. It is however getting to the limit of the memory with the RTC+Display libraries, so no room for sloppy programming.
Edit:. It actually even has rs485 comms too, so ass rs485 lib to that
@@jimb032 You clearly have no idea what are you talking about! First of all you don't need an RTC (Real Time Clock, it is an external module for Arduino UNO because atemga328 does not have an internal one) is not the best way for keeping track of short periods of time like 60 or 90 minutes. it is better achieved using software interrupts but that will make your code rather complicated.
trying using hardware interrupts with a timer in a loop. You will see what I am talking about!
@@Heybat and you clearly have no idea how to program properly. I know what an RTC is I've used it in many projects. (RTC-Real Time Clock-since you seem to not understand either). It's even easier if you don't use one, I'm just saying at no way are you at the limit unless you are just a sloppy programmer. I'm well aware how to use interrupts, it's very above and necessary for almost every communications module. Admittedly nice never done a home brewing project with Arduino, only things much more complicated, but since there are tons of examples of home brewing using a 328 it seems it's only a challenge for you.
theres not supposed to be an ssr output INSIDE the pid controller,its meant to be put out to an ssr!
to make direct pcb printing method to making pcb and modify simple printer in to pcb printer
please
Thanks for the video, please finish the mppt video as promised thank you.
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Where is JLC PCB??
Simple like sh*t
1:00 - yeah, I'm dumb.
Waiting for arduino based Resign Printer
Uff, still under tests. I had some problems with the bmp files conversion from STL...
2nd from Kenya
Probably the stupidest placement of the temp probe, I've ever seen! 🤣
nice
thanks
👍