Rapid Air Maxline Air System Install Speedy's Garage
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
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Tube Straightener: amzn.to/2TSct9O
Maxline 3/4 System: amzn.to/2Nbc3sG
Maxline 1/2 System: amzn.to/2X3mxia
Whip Hose: amzn.to/2EcMjZL
Hose Reel: amzn.to/2X7h1uX
45° 3/8" Elbow: amzn.to/2DIS8Nf
3/8 quick connect: amzn.to/2IjsDHO
Stuff I use:
Race Ramps: amzn.to/2Sicrdt
Race Ramp Low Profile Extension: amzn.to/2MhlDLa
Tire Rack: amzn.to/38X0foa
Cordless Ratchet: amzn.to/3uxBwkV
Cordless 1/2" Impact: amzn.to/2MlxMyL
Cordless 3/8" Impact: amzn.to/2sPLm6K
Ratchet Set: amzn.to/2QbKsJK
Wrench Set: amzn.to/374jt9R
Impact Socket Set: amzn.to/3o06wYh
Impact Socket Set: amzn.to/3xSpiW5
Lug Nut Set: amzn.to/3o1maCu
The final installment of the shop air system at Speedy's Garage showing the Rapid Air 3/4" Maxline kit installation to distribute air around the shop. Was the 3/4" kit worth it? Watch and find out.
Check out the website:
www.speedysgara...
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I've gotten a ton of emails and comments about the tube straightener. Rapid Air now offers one for sale: amzn.to/2TSct9O
For the hose reels, we add a quick connect to the feed side, that way it’s easily serviceable.
Hose reel- use a quick connect plug and socket on one end of the "whip" supply hose.
Yep, I had extra quick connects anyways.
YOU ARE A VERY DETAILED ORIENTED MAN. LOVE THE VIDEO THANK YOU SO MUCH
I just installed a Maxline M7500 as well.
The answer for that "how do I use this 1/2" to 1/2" non-spin whip" is to simply land one side on the air block, land one side on the hose reel (while it's still off the wall and you can "spin" the entire unit), and then screw it to the wall. You'll have to unscrew it from the wall and try again if you get any leaks. Sometimes it's just as simple as changing your order of operations.
Nice job. Ideal pipe thread, 3 threads loose, 3 tight and 3 showing. The factories don’t always cut them perfectly.
Im doing the lines in my garage now, and you by far have the best "how to" guide on this system! Btw the hose reel whip is supposed to have a male end so it can attach to a chuck mounted to a wall manifold. Thats why it wont work when threading both ends. (Treat it kinda like a normal air line) Or just have buddy hold the thing and turn the reel, while you thread it at the same time. And then mount it 😆
Quick connect also gives a place to disconnect for repairs. I mean maintenance!
For all watching and considering this, he did a great job....just some advice, go to your local hyd hose shop and they all all the fittings, bushings, nipples, etc....that you need for the moments in this video where he said he had to buy extra stuff. Hyd fittings are forged(high PSI) and they come in EVERY combination you can imagine. Dont go to a chain outlet, they will rip you off. I built every hose you can imagine for a living and your local joint can help supplement what this kit doesnt include. Great video
PS.....a few drops of dawn soap and water in a squirt bottle will find any air leaks
I've got that on my short list.
IDK if it was mentioned, but the "push" type air quick disconnects are nice to just walk up and "plug" a hose into, but they give out with just a little use. Trust me...I sell a 100 of the "pull back" type to 1 "push" type. They just arent reliable. I applaud your install. From design of cabinet to end use....OCD myself and it looks awesome!!! Also...on the whip hose with solid 1/2"NPT on both ends, find a hyd shop. The make ALL kinds of hyd fittings for just this application. Its female NPT on one side and male NPT on the other and it swivels to allow you to tighten it up. They also make reducing fittings and bushings etc......sorry, one more thing for your viewers...some "black pipe" is only rated for 150PSI, now I know there is a safety rating but still not good to use malleable fittings for air...AND NEVER USE Sch 40 PVC, its a bomb waiting to blow
Man that was excellent to watch. Your system is way more than I need (or want really)... I was just looking for some info on a smaller compressor and saw your videos and just got hooked watching you explain everything in the first one and ended up watching all 3.
Great job... very well thought out and explained... and I'd be happy to eat off the floor of your shop any time.. ;)
I am just now installing my air system. I found that tightening the compression fittings to 3/4 turn required a lot of torque. As the nut is tightened the stainless steel taper slides against stainless steel compression ring. Being of similar materials known to gauld. I put a small amount of white greese on both tapered surfaces of the compression ring (be careful to not get any on the pipe) greatly reduce the torque necessary to achieve 3/4 to a full turn. It makes tightening them almost enjoyable.
Thanks for sharing! Great tips!!!!
I just completed the max air install! Excellent system! Pain in ass to straighten out....wish I would of had that jig. I found that the clips help to straighten pipe as you install on wall as well.
Milton makes a 3’ flexible compressor whip...one end is 1/2” npt male and one end is female rated 400psi. Works great as well! Planning and layout important! This system is very versatile thank god! Also an extra hand makes it much easier installing on wall or pipe will bend against its own weight especially long runs of pipe. ProTip: I ran an extra 16’ pipe straight up wall and down with ball valve on a T fitting from the ac to allow the air to cool and catch most water prior to my water seperator. Yours turned out good!!!
thanks for the vid. just finished my install. takes more time than expected but just turned it on and I have zero leak. love it.
I have jig and maybe 75 feet of pipe extra for sale, as I have to buy 2 kits.
Installing a system right now, haven’t read all the comments, but do not use a tubing cutter (roller cutter) it compresses the cut end just enough that it is hard to push on even though it is reamed. The o rings tear very easy. Also an emt conduit bender is much quicker and easier than the roller straightener. Especially with the larger sizes such as 1”.
A piece of 3/4 inch plywood behind the drops (outlets) and you would have no problems mounting them. Mount the plywood to the wall and mount the outlet to it. Also, your choice of the 3/4 inch piping was a good move. Airflow is substantially better (especially with better quality air tools) and will make all the difference in performance of your tools. Since you intended to use multiple tools at once this is even more important not only for performance of the tools, but in the savings of wear and tear on you compressor. Great video!
I have a small shop and would only need like 25' rigid air line to go a 50' 3/8" hose reel. I'd like to use an impact wrench for tires. Do you think that 1/2" rigid air line would be sufficient? My compressor is 20 gallon and 6.2cfm @ 90psi. Otherwise, what would you recommend? Thanks!
Very nice. As for the hose reel. I would place it on the wall where I want it. Take it down. Add the hose and therefore still be able to tighten both ends without kinking and then remount the hose reel.
A three piece pipe union is what you were looking for to connect your lead-in hose. PneumaticPlus, Milton, and a few others also carry air filter regulator combos with up to 1" NPT with either embedded or external gauges. Hope that helps!
Great video it was very informative and useful. Plan on using the same airline system set up in my shop. Love that you did a lot of planning & paid a lot of attention to the detail so that you would have install that looked clean. Thank you again for the great video & keep up the great work!
3/4" pipe versus 1/2" pipe isn't 50% more, it is 2.2 times more! look at surface area of the inner diameter. Similar to comparing drainage lines, two 4" pipes does not equal one 8" pipe. Love your shop!
You could use the blue whip hose by disconnecting the compression fitting off the 3/4" air line, that acts as your union. Great video, clean shop.
sopey water is all you need to locate your leaks we have semi trucks that sit for weeks and now drop. you don't get no more complicated then those systems lol
looks good man
the short piece fo hose included with the kolbolt, is meant to get a quick connect fitting on it so you can move the reel and plug into a splitter or manifold, first attach the quick connect, then you attach it to the reel then connect then using the quick connect, plug into splitter or outlet
The whip hose you roll the whole hose or tighten both sides at the same time. Roll the hose toward the wall compressor side tightens and reverse thread on reel tightens.
Good video. Thanks for sharing. As I already did my lines with 1” PEX, I would still like the max air set up. Seems to be more user friendly with the blocks.
Love the planning, definitely gave me some ideas and inspiration for my own air setup, thank you
Good video. Your Cresent wrenches will last longer if you use the opposite direction. When you pull with the adjustable part of the wrench opposite of the line of pull, it places the highest load on it and wears the sliding part out. Flip the wrench over and they will last longer.
Thanks for the tip!
Thank you for sharing. I'm about to install the same system. Your shop is cleaner than my kitchen :)
Awesome video! Very detailed and exactly what I was looking for. Beautiful and clean shop, thanks for sharing!!
Nice!! You could have put a union or quick connect at the hose reel connection for easy reel replacement and hook up.
Great video. I also love your garage everything is neat clean and in place. That's a talent I just don't have. I watched all three of your videos on this project. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
An excellent reality base to begin the process... thank you.
That is a very nice setup, you are very fortunate. I would love to have a shop like that, can't wait to see the lift installed.
A short nipple and union into the side of your hose real solves the problem of your short whip hose. I understand this video is 2 years old but maybe it can help others in the future.
If you use a union for one end of the whip, you'll eliminate that issue.
Or npt hydraulic swivel
The whip hose, you turn it 4-5 time reverse before installi. Then when you install it will unwine when turning in
That should be a loop. So you can have equal pressure at all drops. Also a half inch drop per every 3 feet. For condensation drainage.
My favorite part was the end when he panned to his car and said “hey baby” haha
Awesome kit & video! I just placed my order.
Thank you so much! Sir.....
EXCELLENT HELPFUL VIDEO!!
OCD is a gift😁
I bought this kit because of watching you're video a month ago!!
Starting install today
Good luck with the project!
When I connected my hose whip to the air source, I just used a quick connect instead of a swivel joint.
Thanks, this will help me out a lot when I go to do my area. Thanks again for the video.
Loving the air installation. Rapidair is a bit dearer here in Australia. Can I make a recommendation, you should add a tap before the whip on the retractable. Cheers Andy
THANK YOU...for sharing. Great looking garage, fantastic airline install.
This looks a nice tidy job
You could have always ordered a 3/4 regulator from swagelok. They are the granddaddy of fittings and compression fittings and tubing. Also a word to those who use NPT, or other fittings. Very rarely is PTFE tape/white tube tape/plumbers tape designed to create a seal. It is designed to prevent seizing or frozen threading. NPT threaded fittings are deigned alone to create an air tight seal. The taper on NPT threads allow them to create that seal when torqued. The flanks of the threads compress against each other. Only parallel threads require thread seal tape to allow for tighter seals by lubricating the threads to be tightened for a deeper seating.
I have had to use teflon tape on most of my fittings because the threads in them seem badly machined. Most of the brass ones would hold well, but any of the plated or painted ones (either steel of diecast Aluminium) need tape.
Two possible reasons:
1) I was testing for leaks at full tank pressure (120psi?), and
2) most of my fittings came from a $20 all-in-one set of spiral hose, couplers, nozzles, blow gun, etc
Love the air line set up...myself im getting ready to build my hobby shop..im going with the same brand air comp but 80 gal. And for my lift i want a clean shop floor..im going with a globe inground air over oil.2 post lift.full open under its about 8 grand..ya..but i. A clean look.in my garadge.the oil tank will be above ground..at the controls that making my inspector happy my home on 1 acer..lot.again thank u for your. Videos..my air comp will be outside behind the garadge.in a shed..sound proofed. So i dont hear it running.
This video was AWESOME brotha.... Thank you
Mark your pipe before inserting in fitting so you can be sure to get full depth into the fitting.
Like the old school Toyota dealer color on the walls
You can come over and do my garage!....lol.... your garage is cleaner than a lot of homes I have been in.... super clean!
I'm OCD...blessing and a curse.
Speedy.... that connection SHOULD turn on the hose so you can tighten it. its not designed to spin freely, but you should be able to turn it enough on that fitting to get it tight. I've had a couple of different hoses, and they all allowed it to turn.
Interesting. That should help some folks save a few bucks. Without a swivel I assumed they weren't designed to "move".
My Goodyear hose reel had the same whip hose. I just attached the whip to the reel first and rotated it as I tightened it to the block. A little cumbersome but completely doable.
You can also twist the hose so that when you're tightening it, it unwinds and ends up normal....
I just used a quick connect fitting at the wall. Easy to disconnect if you ever need to do maintenance on the reel.
Hey Speedy
I have a few German woodworking machines with ping pong instructions.
Sure wish you had the same machines along with the install videos.
At the same token after watching all 3 vids, I am actually in the process
of the Quincy QT5 and your videos couldnt hit me at a better time!
Very thorough and mighty quite helpful. OCD at its best!
Thanks Man
PS, paint that Maxline grey, you know it bothers you
Bravo mister. Nice setup and planning
Great looking job on your install!
And very nice looking shop!
That is a pretty system... and an expensive one. I used 3/4 inch schedule 40 pipe and fittings. Easy, cheap and fast. Never had a problem.
I think it was like $200. Didn't seem that expensive to me, but if you got something much cheaper to work, good deal.
@@SpeedysGarage I figured it was would be more than that. Your whole system including pipe and those brass fittings and adapters was $200?
Right about that....I got the Maxline kit on sale for $179, I can't recall exactly how much the fittings and stuff where, it's been a couple years.
Wow., excellent how-to video. Cool looking shop also!
Outstanding work! Awesome air setup and shop, keep the videos coming!
Going all milwaukee cordless hardly even use an air compressor anymore only for tires an running a brake bleeder
Great video! Nice garage!
sweet ride you got there....so i wanted to go with the 3/4" but your final comment with the 1/2" pipe threw me....I will be running a small sand blast cabinet, air tools, and most importantly...an HVLP so i need to carry the cfm. I live in Europe so anchoring the blocks won't be a problem....a plastic anchor and right into concrete. Thanks for the tutorial
Pyper70 don't waste your money on the 1/2" system. It is junk compared to the 3/4". This 3/4" system is money well spent. I just installed two of the master kits in my shop. Love it! Great video by the way👍
you should use a union to connect the hose
Good job thanks for the links as well
I want to have a shop like this when I'm older cause my dream is to be a mechanic and have my own shop at home.
Going with the 3/4 is a way better decision im 22 years old and im looking into runing air in my shop is a 40×60×14 and i think im going to go with 3/4 like my grandpa use to tell me when i use to decide if i wanted to buy just a cheap harbor freight socket set or snap-on he was a diesel machanic at Ryder truck rental for 35 years and he only bought good brand tools he always told me buy once cry once he also use to always tell me when buying equipment or when i purchased my shop i was just going to go with a 30×40×12 but i kept in mind what he use to always tell me and that is you can do small work with big equipment but you cant do big work with small equipment so that why i decided to go with snap-on tools and a bigger shop i mean buying snap-on tools and 40×60×14 hurt my pocket but i defiantly dont regret it you made a damn good decision going with 3/4 pipe
Good luck with your shop build!
Nice video, thanks i have been wanting to do this to my garage for a while but was undecided between 1/2" lines or 3/4"
Kick ass shop. Very instructive video.
Being OCD :)
Very good and detailed video ! I wish I could hire you to do my garage ! I will do my system this week.
Where did you find the 45 degree fittings shown in the video. This is one of the best instructional videos I have ever seen. Great Job.
Got them online. Took a bit of searching if my memory serves.
Speedy's Garage They. Now sell the 45 degree fittings on their site. Thanks for the advise.
I know this is old but my kit came with stainless 45° fittings.
Good god. That garage though! Why don't you try cleaning that mess up! Maybe install a couple lights or something!
😂
By the time you get the pipe straightener, it's close to the same cost of black pipe or copper.
Wish rapid air would make the straight stick's easier to obtain. Than I would buy there product.
Anybody have plans on how to build that straightener jig?
I found that the cutter wasn't making a straight cut so I used a standard tubing cutter
curious what compressor and size you are using. Also wondered how you ventilate the compressor room? IS it just open at the top and if so does that really knock the noise down?
Check out the shop build series it has all the details.
You're better off radiusing your corners rather than installing those 90° fittings as the 90's will reduce your air flow since they're a restriction. I doubt you'll notice the difference with that short amount of line, though. But the 90's would probably make a noticeable difference if you'd gone with 3/8" line.
I agree, if I had it to do again that's how I'd run it, and save a few bucks in the process.
@@SpeedysGarage I didn't realize this vid was 4 years old. How's it holding up? I saw one review where the line ruptured and burst. I think he kinked it and the rupture was his fault though.
I would like to get my hands on plans for that straightener jig.
You can actually find them for sale on amazon now amzn.to/3866fz6
Interesting that it’s 3/4” pipe, but the connectors are narrowed down to what looks like 1/2”. So you’re going to have restrictions all over. Corners have friction and restrictions too, particularly those sharp 90 degree turns. So now you have 3/4” to 1/2” restrictions, and double that on corners.
So 3/4” pipe has a little bit more air in the line than 1/2”, but your recovery won’t be that much faster than 1/2” because of these corner and tee connections. I had a commercial film lab, and quite a lot of air lines for the 42 dark rooms and the number of processors and other machinery. There are formulas for calculating how much pressure and air volume you will lose with each fitting. Suffice to say that sharp turns, and restricted fittings make a very big loss. It’s why there are what are called full diameter valves and fittings.
I assume they gave 1/2” fittings with 3/4” connections because of price.
A couple of “U” drops with a drain valve on the bottom for water deposition and drainage, would have also been good. It’s amazing how many people don’t know about that.
I've forgotten the calcs as I did this a year or so ago, but what I can say is the air system supplies more than enough air to run all the tools I've hooked up to it from large impacts to die grinders run for hours. The ports have valve on them for water evacuation if needed, but honestly my filter at the regulator seems to have taken care of that as I don't get any condensation at the tools. Ran a die grinder on a project for quite a while during the summer humidity last year and honestly expected to need to make some adjustments, but in the end never noticed any issues at the tool like I do with my smaller 30 gallon system with just a hose connected direct. The "U" with valves is a good idea, but in my situation wouldn't be cost effective...I used nearly all the piping in the kit to cover the route shown. I think I may have had just a couple feet left in the end.
I was thinking the same thing about the fittings
Nice Challenger. What does she have in her 5.7, 6.2 or 6.4? Looks like she's got a Hemi badge. 👍
This is an awesome video and shop. Whats the dimensions of your shoo if you don't mind. Seems like you have plenty of usable space
24 x 36 - Be sure to check out the shop build series on my channel for tons of details.
Great vid!
Wow!! This is nice!!!
Thats a quite the laboratory you got there. We tried using the plastic air line set up and had nothing but issues with it constantly blowing out. Went back to running 1" air hoses and putting 3 way fittings every 50 feet and tag in that way. Haven't had an issue in 4 years now.
How is that Quincy compressor holding up? Thinking of getting one for my personal shop. Thanks!
Very nice job but the 3/4 pipe and line are pretty pointless. The only thing you'll gain is a minimal amount of additional volume of stored air in the system. The larger hose or pipe in the system makes no difference in regards to airflow when the pathway of the air is restricted at any other point. With a 60 gallon reservoir, I doubt you'll need any additional storage space for air. Again, very nice work.
You're right on the 3/4. If I had it to do again I'd definitely have gone with the 1/2".
@@SpeedysGarage But also, if you read comments from people about the 1/2" line, that's the OD of the line, which means it's probably closer to 3/8" ID. Either way, your install looks fantastic as well as your shop. Nicely done.
After watching u do your good job u have done im asking myself why the heck u didnt go with a 80 gallon 7 or 8 hp for that shop you have made you may say the 60 is fine but that shop needed a 80 gallon imo but hey its your dollar but it dont seem your short of those the way you bought all that material . A dryer system building a manifold is what i want to watch you build
60 has been enough for my needs the past few years. 80 wouldn't fit in the closet and I wanted the shop space.
I like your rollers for straightening the tubing. Did you build that jig?
You can buy them now amzn.to/3SgM6vk
@@SpeedysGarage I did end up turning my own rollers in my wood lathe. Used 1/2" bolts on a 3/4" plywood frame. Worked ok. I used the winch on my ATV to pull the tubing through the rollers. I have pictures.
3:25 Double union nut
IT's been a few years and I can only imagine I won't get a response, but hey, I for sure won't if I don't try. I am just a little confused... You mention with the 45 degree angle ends that they are 1/4", but your link to amazon shows as 3/8"... Please advise. I bought the 3/4" rapidair set and looking to install here very soon. I want as much going to my blast cabinet as possible, as the rest of the shop can be 1/4"...
Mine were 1/4" that matched up with my quick connects. Amazon changes links around occasionally. 3/8 flow more obviously and you could do that for your blast cabinet connection. I would personally.
Thanks again for the detailed video! Did you run your long runs at any type of downward angle to reduce water? Are you getting any water at the drain valves? I saw one guy ran his piping at baseboard level and his air drops actually ran up 3-4 feet to keep water out of his air fittings. Your thoughts?
I made all the runs parallel to the floor. I've not had any issues with moisture and just empty the air tank regularly. If you do a lot of painting a good filter system would be recommended I think.
Why do you choose max line instead fast pipe (rigid aluminum pipe from RapidAir?) I'm just curious. I'm looking to install air distribution in my garage too. Don't know which model to choose.🤔
The length of the pipe. Maxline you can cut to whatever length you need to avoid joints.
@@SpeedysGarage where did you get your wheels from the straightener you made?
You need a shutoff valve at each device.
Thanks for sharing!
Awesome video!
Just purchased that kit, I’d like to buy that straightner if you still have it
Nice installation video! Thank you!
Excellent Video Series, love that Quicncy Compressor with the Baldor Electric Motor & V-Twin 4 piston Pump.
Speedy would it have just been simple enough just to add a Quick Connect Coupler to one of the ends of the Whip Hose @ the Hose Reel. Allowing for an easy install of the Whip Hose. Just a thought. Maybe you can explain to me if this crossed your mind & if so why you chose "Not" to do this. I might find my self in the same senerio in the near future !!
Once again, an Excellent choice in your Compressor & a Excellent Video series. Thanks for Sharing !!
That's an option for sure, however don't know about you but a lot of my quick connects start to leak over time and I felt better long term about a threaded sealed connection. Just seems like an oddity on the whip not being flex at each end.
On the whip hose...don’t you just thread on make/female air hose quick connectors?
Does a connection come in the 3/4" kit that has a male connector that connects into the 1/2" hole on the compressor?
I had to have a special hose made up.
Hey Buddy Great Video On Your Air Line 🎬 I Use 3/8 Fittings For All My Air Tools More Air Power.,🔩🔧 To Me The 1/4 Air Fittings Are To Small
Thanks for the info!
I love the Maxline kit, but the clips they supply are sheer garbage. $1.75 apiece, and they're so flexible that they don't begin to hold the tubing straight or secure. I've switched to steel conduit straps (example: www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-in-Rigid-1-Hole-Conduit-Strap-96113/10012914 ) which really anchor the line in place and cost a fraction of the plastic garbage. In fact, they're rigid enough that you can make minor adjustments between clamps to straighten the tubing, making a run look more like pipe than flexible tubing. Highly recommended.
You said that you found your tubing straitening tool online or was it from plans. At any rate, the factory made one is a lot more expensive than I think I could make one for. Could you post a link to the plans for one?
The plans used to be on the Rapidair website. I have a copy if you can't find it.
I looked on their website but could not find it. I'd love a copy if you could send me one.
Shoot me an email from my website - www.SpeedysGarage.net
Speedy's Garage
If possible I’d like to get a copy of the MaxLine tubing straightener too. I clicked the link but did not see how to seen you an email from the site.
Also the double male whip line is so you can have a quick connector on it so you can easily disconnect the reel if it leaks or needs maintenance
Thanks
I am interesting in buying your jig.
Check this out, you can get one on Amazon now: amzn.to/3Ed1W11
How’s the husky couplers ? I had husky and they always leaked air and I’m going with Milton couplers.
Milton are definitely better, but I've not had a ton of the Husky's fail on me. Maybe one or two out of 8 or so. For the price, not a big deal to me.
Thanks, maybe I got a bad batch.
I love the shop colors, I painted my shop similar colors and the floor. Looks great!
BTW what size compressor are you using?
60 gallon, there's a video in the shop series play list on it.